Peugeot 405 User Manual

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Page 1

Models covered

Saloon and Estate models with 4-cylinder SOHC and DOHC petrol engines, including Mi-16 and special/limited editions;

1.4 (1360 cc), 1.6 (1580 cc), 1.8 (1761 cc), 1.9 (1905 cc) and 2.0 (1998 cc)

For Diesel engine models, see OWM 3198 Does not cover four-wheel-drive models

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 174 X

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Peugeot 405 (petrol)

Service and Repair Manual

Steve Rendle and A K Legg LAE MIMI

(1559-336)

Page 2

LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 405

Introduction to the Peugeot 405 Page 0•4 Safety first! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•12 Coolant level Page 0•12 Brake fluid level Page 0•13 Power steering fluid level Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•15 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Battery Page 0•16 Bulbs and fuses Page 0•16

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Peugeot 405 petrol models Page 1•1

Maintenance schedule - models up to 1993 Page 1•3 Maintenance schedule - models from 1994 Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents

Page 3

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1 XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B•1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection models Page 4B•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection models Page 4C•1 Emission control systems Page 4D•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A•1 Ignition system Page 5B•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•22

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion factors Page REF•2 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault finding Page REF•12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

Page 4

The Peugeot 405 model range was introduced into the UK in

January 1988 in Saloon form only.

Available with 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 and 2.0 engines, all models have front-

wheel-drive with all round independent suspension.

Automatic transmission models were introduced in April 1988.

In July 1988 came the sporty Mi 16 version with its 1.9 litre double overhead cam, 16-valve engine, uprated gearbox, suspension and an ABS braking system to match its power.

Estate car versions were introduced in October 1988.

From 1991, engines equipped with catalytic converters were progressively introduced, to meet the more stringent exhaust gas emission regulations.

Since its introduction, the 405 range has continually been developed. All models have a high trim level, which is very comprehensive in the upper model range.

For the home mechanic, the Peugeot 405 is a straightforward vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Your Peugeot 405 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

0•4 Introduction

Peugeot 405 SRi Saloon Peugeot 405 GL Estate

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with their permission. Special thanks to Gliddons of Taunton who provided several of the project vehicles used in the origination of this manual. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The vehicles used in the preparation of this manual, and which appear in many of the photographic sequences, were a Peugeot 405 GL Saloon, a Peugeot 405 GTX Estate, a Peugeot 405 GR Saloon, and a Peugeot GTX Saloon.

The Peugeot 405 Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Steve Rendle

Andy Legg

Sub-editor Carole Turk Editor & Page Make-up Bob Jex Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

Page 5

Safety First! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

Page 6

0•6 Roadside Repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check that the spark plug HT leads (where applicable) are securely connected by pushing them home.

The throttle potentiometer wiring plug may cause problems if not connected securely.

Check the idle speed stepper motor wiring plug for security.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that the ignition coil wiring plug is secure, and spray with water-dispersant if necessary.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Page 7

Roadside Repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

Page 8

In the boot, use the wheel brace to loosen the spare wheel cradle bolt.

0•8 Roadside Repairs

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack.

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. M Make sure that the spare wheel cradle is properly secured, or it could drop onto the road

while driving.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Before raising the car, loosen the wheel bolts slightly using the wheelbrace.

Locate the jack head in the jacking point and use the brace to raise the car until the wheel is clear of the ground.

Temporarily place the spare wheel under the sill as a precaution should the jack topple.

Use the wheel brace to remove the wheel trim.

Remove the spare wheel from the cradle.

Remove the bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and hand-tighten the

bolts. Lower the car, then tighten the wheel bolts firmly. Have the bolts tightened to the correct torque at the earliest opportunity.

Page 9

Roadside Repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Page 10

0•10 Weekly Checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent.

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

1.6 litre carburettor

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Underbonnet check points

1.6 litre fuel injection

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Page 11

Weekly Checks 0•11

1.9 litre

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

2.0 litre

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Page 12

0•12 Weekly Checks

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine temperature. When cold, the coolant

level should be on the “MAXI” mark (arrowed). When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the “MAXI” mark.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Unscrew the expansion

tank cap to the first stop, to release any pressure present in the system. Push the cap down, turn to the second stop, and remove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion tank filler neck,

until the coolant level is up to the “MAXI” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go to secure.

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil (see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured for easy identification (see “Underbonnet check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11

for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

Page 13

Weekly Checks 0•13

Brake fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and

pouring it. Warning: Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 On models with ABS (anti-lock brakes),

switch the ignition off and pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the ignition.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be

allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” (A) and “DANGER” (B) marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located in the scuttle at the rear

driver’s side of the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. Check the fluid already in the reservoir - the system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only the

specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Check the operation of the low fluid level warning light. Chock the roadwheels,

release the handbrake, and switch on the ignition. Ask an assistant to press the button on top of the reservoir. The brake fluid level/ handbrake warning light should come on. Apply the handbrake and switch off the ignition

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the car on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The fluid level is visible through the translucent material of the reservoir, and

should be between the maximum (A) and minimum (B) level lines marked on the side of the reservoir.

If topping-up is necessary, and before removing the cap, wipe the area so that

dirt does not enter the reservoir. Unscrew the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the cap as it is removed.

Top-up to the “MAX” mark, using the specified type of fluid. Take great care

not to allow dirt to enter the reservoir, and do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, refit the cap.

Page 14

0•14 Weekly Checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Page 15

Weekly Checks 0•15

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course. To remove a front wiper blade, first prise off the securing clips, and disconnect the washer tube from the arm.

Pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through

90°, then pull up the blade securing clip, and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

On Estate models, to remove a tailgate wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from

the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then press the locking tab, and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account

use coolant antifreeze in the washer system

- this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen washer fluid level

On Estate models, the tailgate washer fluid reservoir is located behind a hinged cover on the right-hand side of the

luggage compartment.

The windscreen/headlight washer fluid reservoir is located in the scuttle at the rear right-hand corner of the engine

compartment.

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a

screenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Page 16

0•16 Weekly Checks

Bulbs and fuses

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9).

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located behind a panel on the bottom of the driver’s side lower facia panel.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see wiring diagrams in Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps (A) to ensure good electrical

connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Tools for cleaning the battery post and terminals are available.

Note that the battery negative terminal

stud can be removed for cleaning or renewal. Unscrew the lead clamp, then pull off the plastic insulator, and lever off the stud and cover.

Page 17

Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0•17

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to

20W/50, to API SG/CD or better

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity 75W/80W, to API GL5

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF

Tyre pressures

Saloon models Front Rear

165/70 R 14 T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

175/70 R 14 T tyres:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

185/65 R 14 H tyres

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

195/55 R 15 V tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

Estate models

175/70 R 14 T tyres:

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

185/65 R 14 H tyres:

Normal load:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi)

Full load:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

Note: Refer to the tyre pressure data label at the bottom of the rear edge of the driver’s door (visible when the door is open) for the correct tyre pressures for your particular vehicle. Pressures apply only to originalequipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Page 18

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Air conditioning refrigerant check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Air filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Body drain channel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Clutch adjustment check and control mechanism lubrication . . . . . .12

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Emissions control systems check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Engine breather hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Front and rear disc pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Pollen filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes . . . . . . . . . .27

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

1•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Contents

Page 19

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to the end of “Weekly checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

TU engine - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

TU engine - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres

XU engine (8-valve) - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

XU engine (8-valve) - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

XU engine (16-valve) - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3 litres

XU engine (16-valve) - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

Cooling system (approximate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission:

Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 litres

After overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litres

Power steering system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres

Engine

Oil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -15°C(-5°F)

50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -30°C(-22°F)

Fuel system

Idle speed:

TU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

XU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpm

XU5 and TU3 single-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

Bosch L3.1 multi-point injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Other multi-point injection systems (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

Idle mixture CO content:

TU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8%

XU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5%

XU5 and TU3 single-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 0.5 %

XU5, XU7, XU9, XU10 multi-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . Less than 1.0 %

Air filter element:

TU engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion V401

XU engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U543

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L101, L206, L132 or L135

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

TU and XU carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C9YCC

XU injection 8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C7YCC

XU injection16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7BMC

Spark plug electrode gap*:

8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 mm

Ignition HT lead resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Approximately 600 ohms per 100 mm length

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above.

Brakes

Front/rear brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Tyre pressures

See end of “Weekly Checks”.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Manual gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Page 20

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule - models up to 1993 1•3

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Check condition and security of engine breather

hoses (Section 7)

mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 8) mm Check the condition of, and adjust as necessary,

the accelerator cable (Section 9)

mm Check the idle speed and mixture (CO) adjustment.

Clean the fuel filter in the carburettor (where applicable) (Section 10)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 11) mm Check and adjust the clutch pedal travel

(Section 12)

mm Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters

(Section 13)

mm Check front and rear disc brake pads for wear

(Section 14)

mm Check the operation of the handbrake and adjust

as necessary (Section 15)

mm Check the steering and suspension components

(Section 16)

mm Check and unblock all door and sill drain channels.

Also check the heater drain tube (Section 17)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 4)

mm Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 5)

mm Check all underbonnet components for fluid leaks

(Section 6)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) mm Check and if necessary top-up the manual

transmission oil level (Section 26)

mm Inspect the rear brake drum linings for wear

(Section 27)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 20) mm Renew the air filter element (Section 21) mm Check the ignition system and ignition timing

(Section 22)

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid

(Section 23)

mm Renew the hydraulic fluid in the braking system

(Section 24)

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 18 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 18) mm Check the air conditioning system refrigerant

(Section 19)

Page 21

The maintenance schedule for models from 1994 is given below. When compared with the schedule for earlier models, it will be seen that although the same operations are required, the frequency with which they are performed has changed considerably. The specified interval for most operations has been extended.

The description of the maintenance tasks in this Chapter follows the schedule prescribed

for earlier models. When the interval for later models varies, this is of course indicated. However, the DIY owner may consider that it is well worth while observing the shorter intervals in any case.

We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and ultimately, the resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, is used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

1•4 Maintenance schedule - models from 1994

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Check the air conditioning system refrigerant

(Section 19)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 11) mm Renew the fuel filter - carburettor models

(Section 8)

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid

(Section 23)

mm Check the ignition system and ignition timing

(Section 22)

mm Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment

(Section 10)

mm Check the emissions control system components

(Section 29)

mm Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 5)

mm Lubricate the clutch control mechanism

(Section 12)

mm Check the condition of the front brake pads

(Section 14)

mm Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 15) mm Carry out a road test (Section 30)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

Note: It is strongly recommended that the engine oil and filter be changed at least every 6 months, even if the mileage specified has not been covered.

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check the clutch adjustment (Section 12) mm Check all underbonnet components for fluid leaks

(Section 6)

mm Check the steering and suspension components

(Section 16)

mm Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters

(Section 13)

mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 4)

mm Renew the pollen filter where fitted (Section 28)

Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) - this is the

interval recommended by Peugeot, but we recommend that the belt is changed more frequently, at 36 000 miles - see above.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

mm Renew the coolant (Section 20) mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 24)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 18) mm Renew the air filter (Section 21) mm Inspect the rear brake drum linings for wear

(Section 27)

mm Check the condition of the rear disc brake pads

(Section 14)

mm Check and if necessary top-up the manual

transmission oil level (Section 26)

mm Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models

(Section 8)

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) see Note below.

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 72 000 miles (120 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie. mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

Page 22

Maintenance & Servicing 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1580 cc carburettor engine

1 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 2 Battery 3 Air filter housing 4 Cold air inlet duct 5 Bonnet lock 6 Bonnet release latch 7 Engine oil filler cap/tube 8 Carburettor air inlet duct

(carburettor below) 9 Radiator (coolant filler) cap 10 Alternator 11 Right-hand engine mounting 12 Timing belt upper cover 13 Right-hand suspension strut

top mounting 14 Windscreen wash reservoir 15 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 16 Camshaft cover 17 Windscreen wiper motor

(beneath cover) 18 Hot air inlet duct 19 Engine oil level dipstick 20 Fuel pump 21 Distributor 22 Spark plug HT leads

Underbonnet view of a 1580 cc fuel injection engine

1 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 2 Valve cover 3 Windscreen wiper motor

(beneath cover) 4 Engine oil level dipstick 5 Hot air duct 6 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 7 Battery 8 Power steering fluid reservoir 9 Air cleaner 10 Engine oil filler cap/tube 11 Radiator (coolant filler) cap 12 Alternator 13 Right-hand engine mounting 14 Windscreen washer reservoir

Page 23

1•6 Maintenance & Servicing

Underbonnet view of a 1998 cc engine

1 Brake system hydraulic fluid

reservoir 2 Engine oil filler cap 3 Windscreen wiper motor

(below cover) 4 Air cleaner cover 5 Ignition coil 6 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 7 Battery 8 Power steering fluid reservoir 9 Inlet air duct 10 Engine oil level dipstick 11 Automatic transmission

kickdown cable 12 Throttle housing 13 Accelerator cable 14 Radiator (coolant filler cap) 15 Auxiliary drivebelt 16 Windscreen washer fluid

reservoir

Underbonnet view of a 1905 cc engine

1 Left-hand strut top mounting 2 Battery 3 Fuel damper 4 Power steering fluid reservoir 5 Air filter cover 6 Fuel injection control unit 7 Thermostat housing 8 Cold air inlet 9 Throttle housing 10 Brake servo vacuum hose 11 Bonnet lock 12 Inlet manifold 13 Bonnet release latch 14 Accelerator cable 15 Radiator (coolant filler cap) 16 Alternator 17 Right-hand engine mounting 18 Fuel injection relay box 19 Right-hand strut top mounting 20 Camshaft drivebelt top cover 21 Fuel pressure regulator 22 Engine oil filler tube 23 Earth lead 24 Windscreen washer reservoir 25 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 26 Brake servo vacuum unit 27 Windscreen wiper motor 28 Fuel rail and injectors 29 Camshaft cover 30 Power steering hose 31 Engine oil level dipstick 32 Windscreen wiper arm 33 Air inlet grille (ventilation) 34 Distributor

Page 24

Maintenance & Servicing 1•7

Rear underbody view of a 1905 cc engine model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel tank supporting strap 3 Heat shield 4 Exhaust pipe 5 Rear suspension side member 6 Handbrake cable equaliser

mechanism 7 Rear suspension torsion bar 8 Rear shock absorber 9 Rear disc brake caliper 10 Exhaust rear silencer 11 Spare wheel (cover removed) 12 Spare wheel cradle support

hook 13 Fuel filler hose 14 Rear anti-roll bar 15 Suspension cross-link

Front underbody view of a 1905 cc engine model

1 Fuel lines 2 Front exhaust silencer 3 Brake lines 4 Front subframe rear mounting 5 Steering rack mountings 6 Exhaust downpipe 7 Steering tack rod 8 Lower suspension arm 9 Radiator lower hose 10 Engine oil sump 11 Rear engine mounting 12 Driveshaft intermediate

bearing housing 13 Right-hand driveshaft 14 Oil temperature sensor 15 Engine oil drain plug 16 Radiator 17 Transmission housing 18 Differential housing 19 Cooling fan resistor 20 Horn

Page 25

Maintenance procedures

1•8 6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

1 Introduction

General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. 3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. 5 The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and

may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (see

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (see

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 5). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 11). e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable (Section 22). f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary

(Section 21). g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 8). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 6). i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable (Section 10).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4). d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable (Chapter 5B). e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable (Section 22).

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months. Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches cab be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer.

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials.

Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point. Where necessary remove the splash guard from under the engine.

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn; on some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug

3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench

Page 26

pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes

Hint) . 4 Recover the sealing ring from the drain

plug. 5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 6 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, then refit and tighten the plug. 7 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter which is located on the front side of the cylinder block, below the inlet manifold. 8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 12 Remove the dipstick then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Weekly checks”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap. 13 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General Repair Procedures” in the Reference section of this manual.

4 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature, then park the vehicle on level ground. The fluid level is checked using the dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment, directly in front of the engine/transmission. The dipstick top is brightly-coloured (usually orange) for easy identification. 2 With the engine idling and the selector lever in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the upper and lower marks (see illustrations).

3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission. Note: Never overfill

the transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper mark.

4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the level again, topping-up if necessary. 5 Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage. 6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before it becomes serious.

5 Auxiliary drivebelt check

and renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km). Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 belt tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the auxiliary drivebelt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service 1•9

4.2a Withdrawing the automatic transmission dipstick

4.2b Automatic transmission fluid dipstick lower (a) and upper (b) fluid level markings

3.8 Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the oil filter

As the engine oil drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Page 27

checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest opportunity.

1 Except for XU9J4 16-valve engines, all models are fitted with one auxiliary drivebelt driven from the crankshaft pulley on the righthand side of the engine. On non-air conditioning models the belt drives the alternator and power steering pump and its tension is adjusted manually. On models fitted with air conditioning it drives the alternator, power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor. On XU9J4 models a separate drivebelt drives the power steering pump from a pulley on the end of the camshaft.

Checking the auxiliary drivebelt condition

Except XU9J4 16-valve power steering drivebelt

2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove the engine undercover and wheelarch cover as applicable. 4 Using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the entire length of the drivebelt can be examined. Examine the drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. Renew the belt if worn or damaged. 5 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, on models where the belt is adjusted manually, check the drivebelt tension as described below. On models with an automatic springloaded tensioner, there is no need to check the drivebelt tension.

XU9J4 16-valve power steering drivebelt

6 The power steering drivebelt is positioned

on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Examine the full length of the drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. If necessary turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley or by engaging 4th gear and pushing the car (for safety, the car must be on level ground). Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. 7 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, check the drivebelt tension as described later in this Section.

Auxiliary drivebelt (early models) - removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

8 Loosen the alternator pivot and link bolts,

then unscrew the adjuster bolt to release the drivebelt tension (see illustration). 9 Remove the drivebelt from the alternator, crankshaft and where necessary the power steering pulleys.

Refitting and tensioning

10 Locate the drivebelt on the pulleys making

sure it is correctly engaged with the grooves. 11 The belt tension must be adjusted so that with moderate thumb pressure applied midway along the belt’s longest run, it can be deflected by approximately 6.0 mm. Turn the adjuster bolt in or out to obtain the correct tension, then tighten the pivot and link bolts (see illustration).

Auxiliary drivebelt (models with a manuallyadjusted tensioning pulley) removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

12 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3.

13 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 14 Slacken the tensioner pulley bracket

adjustment/mounting bolts (one located in the middle of the pulley and the other located below on the bracket (see illustration). 15 Fully tighten the adjustment bolt to its stop, then slip the drivebelt from the pulleys

(see illustration).

Refitting

16 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys, and take up the slack in the belt by tightening the adjuster bolt. Ensure that the ribs on the belt are correctly engaged with the grooves in the pulleys. 17 Tension the drivebelt as described in the following paragraphs.

Tensioning

18 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3. 19 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator bearings. 20 The belt should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the midpoint between the pulleys on the longest belt run (see the note at the start of this Section). 21 To adjust, unscrew the adjustment bolt until the tension is correct, then rotate the crankshaft a couple of times, and recheck the tension. Securely tighten the tensioner pulley bracket adjustment/mounting bolts.

22 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 23 Refit the engine undercover and

wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Auxiliary drivebelt (models with an automatic spring-loaded tensioner pulley) removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

24 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3.

25 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 26 Using a square drive key in the square

hole in the bottom of the automatic adjuster bracket, turn the bracket anticlockwise to release the tension on the belt. Hold the bracket in this position by inserting a 4.0 mm

1•10 6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

5.8 Loosening the alternator adjustment bolts (early models)

5.14 Tensioner pulley bracket lower mounting bolt (arrowed)

5.15 Auxiliary drivebelt tension adjustment bolt (arrowed)

5.11 Alternator drivebelt deflection (A)

Page 28

Allen key through the special hole and tightening the peg. 27 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the tensioner roller, then slip the auxiliary drivebelt from the pulleys. 28 Check that the tensioner pulleys turn freely without any sign of roughness.

Refitting and tensioning

29 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys making sure that it is engaged with the correct grooves in the pulleys. 30 Refit the tensioner roller and tighten the mounting bolts. 31 Using the square drive key hold the automatic adjuster, then release the peg and slowly allow the tensioner to tighten the belt. Check again that the belt is correctly located in the pulley grooves.

32 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 33 Refit the engine undercover and

wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Power steering pump drivebelt (XU9J4 16-valve) models

Removal

34 Drain the hydraulic fluid from the system

as described in Chapter 10. 35 Loosen the pump mounting bolts and remove the drivebelt. 36 Disconnect the high and low pressure unions on the pump.

37 Remove the bolts and lift off the pump.

Refitting and tensioning

38 Refit in reverse order, then tension the

belt by applying a torque of 55 Nm for a new belt and 30 Nm for a used belt by using the square of a torque wrench in the square cutout in the pump bracket, tightening the mounting bolts while the torque tension is maintained (see illustration).

39 Fill and bleed the system (see Chapter 10).

6 Hose and fluid leak check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water, oil or fuel leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some slight seepage from these areas is to be expected. What you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes, or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen, or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. If the original Peugeot crimpedtype hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with standard wormdrive hose clips.

4 Inspect the cooling system (hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks (see Haynes Hint). 5 Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket, referring to Chapter 3. 6 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 7 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks, and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 8 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck, and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 9 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 10 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service 1•11

5.38 Square cut-out in power steering

pump bracket (a) on XU9J4 16-valve models

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

7 Engine breather hose check

Check the condition and security of all

engine breather hoses.

Where the engine has covered a high mileage, remove the hoses and clean any sludge from them.

8 Fuel filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km) for carburettor models, and 36 000 miles (60 000 km) for fuel injection models.

Carburettor models

1 The fuel filter is connected into the fuel hose between the pump and the carburettor in the engine compartment (see illustration). 2 To remove the filter, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. Where the original Peugeot crimped-

Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions in “Safety first!”

and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

Page 29

type hose clips are fitted, cut them off and discard them; use standard worm-drive hose clips on refitting. 3 Note the direction of the arrow marked on the filter body. Unclip the filter from its retaining bracket, and remove it from the vehicle. 4 Connect the fuel hoses to the new filter. Make sure that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, ie. towards the fuel pump. Secure the hoses in position by securely tightening the retaining clips, then clip the filter back into position in its retaining bracket. 5 At the same time, check the fuel reservoir tank on the side of the carburettor for sediment. Remove the reservoir as necessary for cleaning. 6 The fuel connections on the reservoir are as follows.

a) Top hose - return to tank. b) Middle hose - supply from pump via filter. c) Lower hose - to carburettor inlet.

Fuel injection models

7 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, mounted on the right-hand side of the fuel tank. To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 8 Clamp the fuel hose on the tank side of the filter. Bearing in mind the information given in the relevant Part of Chapter 4 on depressurising the fuel system, release the clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. Be prepared for fuel spillage (see illustration). 9 Note the direction of the arrow marked on the filter body. Slacken the retaining clamp screw, then slide the filter out of the clamp, and remove it from underneath the vehicle. 10 Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly-inflammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 11 Slide the new filter into position in the clamp, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, ie. towards the throttle body/fuel rail. This can be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 12 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter, and secure them in position with their retaining clips. Remove the hose clamp.

13 Start the engine, and check the filter hose connections for leaks. Lower the vehicle to the ground on completion.

9 Accelerator cable check

and adjustment

Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B.

10 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture setting, always check the following first:

a) Check that (where adjustable) the ignition

timing is accurate (Chapter 5B).

b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Section 11).

c) Check that the accelerator cable (and on

carburettor models, the choke cable) is correctly adjusted (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure, with no leaks or kinks (Sections 7 and 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 21).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

g) If the engine is running roughly, check the

compression pressures and valve clearances as described in Chapter 2.

h) On fuel injection models, check that the

fuel injection/ignition system warning light is not illuminated (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient length to warm it up to normal operating temperature. Note: Adjustment should ideally

be completed within two minutes of return, without stopping the engine. If the radiator electric cooling fan operates, wait for the cooling fan to stop. If adjustment takes longer than stated, regularly clear any excess fuel from the inlet manifold by revving the engine two or three times to about 2000 rpm, then allow it to idle again.

Carburettor models

3 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched off, and that the choke lever is pushed fully in. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. Note: Models with air conditioning

have an idle compensation device, and the air conditioning compressor must be running while the idle speed is being checked and adjusted.

4 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, screw in the idle adjusting screw (to increase the speed) or out as necessary to obtain the specified speed. The screw is located on the carburettor on non-air conditioning models, and on the idle compensating device on air conditioning models (see illustrations). 5 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major carburettor overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 6 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment

1•12 12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

8.1 Fuel filter location on carburettor models

10.4a Idle speed adjustment screw

(arrowed) on models with idle compensation

10.4b Idle speed adjustment screw

8.8 Fuel filter on fuel injection models

showing fuel hoses (A) and clamp bolt (B)

Page 30

screw located on the carburettor. The screw is covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 7 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the mixture adjustment screw by very small amounts until the level is correct (see illustration). Screwing it in (clockwise) weakens the idle mixture and reduces the CO level; screwing it out will richen the mixture and increase the CO level. 8 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Fuel injection models

Bosch L3.1-Jetronic system

9 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched

off. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. 10 The idle speed is adjusted using the idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle housing (see illustration). Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the idle speed, or anticlockwise to increase the speed. 11 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser

(CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 12 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw located on the airflow meter (see Chapter 4C). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 13 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the mixture adjustment screw by small amounts until the level is correct (see illustration). 14 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

15 The idle speed is non-adjustable. It is

controlled by the idle speed regulator valve. 16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out.

17 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw located on the airflow meter (see illustration). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 18 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until the specified CO level is obtained. 19 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw.

Bosch LU2-Jetronic system

20 The idle mixture is not adjustable and is

automatically regulated by the ECU. 21 To check the idle speed connect a tachometer to the engine, then run the engine at idle speed. 22 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to obtain the specified idle speed (see

illustration). 23 When adjustments are complete,

disconnect any test gear from the engine.

Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

24 Ensure that all electrical loads are

switched off. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. 25 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to obtain the specified idle speed (see illustration).

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service 1•13

10.13 Mixture (CO) adjustment screw on the Bosch L3.1 injection control unit

10.25 Idle speed adjustment screw (1) on the Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

10.22 Idle speed adjustment screw (2) on the Bosch LU2-Jetronic injection system

10.17 Mixture (CO) adjustment screw

(arrowed) on Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

10.10 Adjusting the idle speed screw on the Bosch L3.1 injection system

10.7 Idle mixture adjustment screw (arrowed)

Page 31

26 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is

set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 27 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw (see illustration). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 28 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until the specified CO level is obtained. 29 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw.

Bosch Motronic M1.3 fuel injection system

30 The idle speed is only adjustable on the

XU9JA/Z engine - on other engines it is controlled by the ECU and idle speed control valve. 31 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched off. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. 32 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to obtain the specified idle speed (see

illustration). 33 The idle mixture (CO) is only adjustable on

the XU9J4/K engine - on other engines it is controlled by the ECU. 34 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser

(CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 35 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw located on top of the airflow meter assembly (see illustration). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 36 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until the specified CO level is obtained.

All other fuel injection systems

37 Experienced home mechanics, with a

considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a tachometer and an accurate exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Peugeot dealer. 38 On models with a Magneti Marelli engine management (fuel injection/ignition) system, adjustment of the mixture setting (exhaust gas CO level) is possible, but adjustments can only be made by reprogramming the engine management ECU using special electronic test equipment which is connected to the diagnostic connector (see Chapter 4). 39 On all other vehicles, adjustments are not possible. If the idle speed or the exhaust gas CO level is incorrect, there must be a fault in the engine management system, and the vehicle should be taken to a Peugeot dealer for testing (see Chapter 4).

11 Spark plug renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of

the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used, and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 On 16-valve models, to gain access to the spark plugs, the access cover fitted over the centre of the cylinder head must first be removed. Undo the eight bolts, noting the position of the wiring retaining clip, and remove the cover (see illustration). 3 On other models, to improve access to some of the plugs, it may be necessary to remove the air inlet duct (refer to Chapter 4 for further information). 4 On 1998 cc 16-valve models, pull the HT coils off the spark plugs. If necessary, to remove the possibility of the HT coils being connected to the wrong spark plugs on refitting, mark the coils 1 to 4 (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the engine). 5 On all other models, if the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, corresponding to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured (see illustration).

1•14 12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

10.27 Mixture (CO) adjustment screw (2)

on the Bosch MP3.1 fuel injection system

10.35 Mixture adjustment screw (5) on the Bosch Motronic M1.3 fuel injection system

11.2 On 16-valve models undo the eight bolts (arrowed) and remove the access

cover to reach the spark plugs

10.32 Idle speed adjustment screw (7) on

the Bosch Motronic M1.3 injection system

Page 32

6 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the

spark plug recesses, using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 7 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner, or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows. 8 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich.

10 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 11 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 12 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler blade, then bend the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm, sliding fit. 13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers. 14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves (on top of the plug) are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of hose over the end of the spark plug (see Haynes Hint). 15 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque (see “Specifications”) using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. Refit the remaining plugs in the same way. 16 Connect the HT leads in the correct order, and refit any components removed for access. On 1998 cc 16-valve models, connect the HT coils in their correct order.

12 Clutch adjustment check

and control mechanism lubrication

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months for clutch adjustment, and 18 000 miles (30 000 km) for lubrication.

1 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel.

2 The clutch itself should function correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. 3 Where possible, adjust the clutch cable if necessary, as described in Chapter 6. 4 If excessive effort is required to operate the clutch, check first that the cable is correctly routed and undamaged. Remove the pedal, and make sure that its pivot is properly greased. Refer to Chapter 6 for further information.

13 Driveshaft gaiter check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands, turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, while squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed without delay as described in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general

condition of the CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service 1•15

13.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters (arrowed)

11.12 Measuring the spark plug gap with a feeler blade

11.7 Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

11.5 Pulling the HT leads from the spark plugs

It is often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the cylinder head.

Page 33

the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any obvious movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

14 Front and rear

disc pad check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km) for the front brake pads, and 36 000 miles (60 000 km) for the rear brake pads or shoes.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front or rear of the car (as applicable) and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front or rear roadwheels.

2 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must

be renewed as a set.

3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

15 Handbrake check and

adjustment

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

Refer to Chapter 9.

16 Steering

and suspension check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

Front suspension and steering check

1 Raise the front of the car, and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion rubber gaiter and gripping the track-rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described. In addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

9 Working as described previously for the front suspension, check the rear hub bearings, the suspension bushes and the shock absorber mountings for wear.

Suspension strut/ shock absorber check

10 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note:

Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.

11 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

17 Body drain channel check

Check and unblock all door and sill drain channels. Also check the heater drain tube located at the rear of the engine compartment.

1•16 12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

16.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

For a quick check, the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake pad can be measured through

the aperture in the caliper body.

Page 34

20 Coolant renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is every 2 years, regardless of mileage.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait until any pressure remaining in the

system is released, then push the cap down, turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and lift it off. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side of the radiator. 3 Loosen the drain plug (there is no need to remove it completely) and allow the coolant to drain into the container. If desired, a length of tubing can be fitted to the drain outlet to direct the flow of coolant during draining (see

illustration).

4 To assist draining, open the cooling system

bleed screws. On all except 1.4 litre engines, the bleed screws are located in the thermostat cover and thermostat housing. On 1.4 litre engines, the bleed screws are located in the thermostat housing, and in the cylinder head coolant bypass hose. Additionally, on 2.0 litre XU10J4 engines, there is a bleed screw located in the coolant bypass hose behind the cylinder head. All models also have a bleed screw located at the top left-hand corner of the radiator (see illustrations).

18 Hinge and lock lubrication

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 36 000 miles (60 000 km).

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light machine oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed section of inner cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check carefully the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Check the operation of the central locking system (if fitted). 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

19 Air conditioning refrigerant

check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 In order to check the condition of the refrigerant, a humidity indicator and a sight glass are provided on top of the drier bottle, located in the front, left-hand corner of the engine compartment (see illustration).

Refrigerant humidity check

2 Check the colour of the humidity indicator. Blue indicates that the condition of the refrigerant is satisfactory. Pink indicates that

the refrigerant is saturated with humidity. If the indicator shows red, the system should be drained and recharged, and a new drier bottle should be fitted. Note: The system should be

drained and recharged only by a Peugeot dealer or air conditioning specialist. Do not attempt to carry out the work yourself, as the refrigerant is a highly-dangerous substance (refer to Chapter 3).

Refrigerant flow check

3 Run the engine, and switch on the air conditioning. 4 After a few minutes, inspect the sight glass, and check the fluid flow. Clear fluid should be visible - if not, the following will help to diagnose the problem:

a) Clear fluid flow - the system is functioning

correctly.

b) No fluid flow - have the system checked

for leaks by a Peugeot dealer or air conditioning specialist.

c) Continuous stream of clear air bubbles in

fluid - refrigerant level low - have the system recharged by a Peugeot dealer or air conditioning specialist.

d) Milky air bubbles visible - high humidity

(see paragraph 2).

18 000 Mile / 18 Month Service

18 000 Mile / 18 Month Service 1•17

20.4a Cooling system bleed screws on

thermostat housing and cover (arrowed) -

1.6 litre engine shown

19.1 Air conditioning system drier bottle sight glass (1) and humidity indicator (2)

20.3 Radiator drain outlet (arrowed)

Warning: Do not attempt to open the refrigerant circuit. Refer to the precautions given in Chapter 3.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow

antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Page 35

5 On 1.4 litre and 2.0 litre engines, when the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below the cylinder block drain plug. On

1.4 litre engines, the drain plug is located at the front left-hand end of the cylinder block. On 2.0 litre engines, the drain plug is located at the rear left-hand end of the cylinder block, next to the rear engine mounting (see illustrations). On 1.6, 1.8 and

1.9 litre engines, no cylinder block drain plug is fitted. 6 Where applicable, remove the cylinder block drain plug, and allow the coolant to drain into the container. 7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 8 Refit and tighten the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs, as applicable, on completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean. 10 The radiator should be flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, first tighten the

radiator drain plug, and the radiator bleed screw, where applicable. 12 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 13 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 14 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

15 To flush the engine, first refit and tighten

the cylinder block drain plug (where applicable), and tighten the cooling system bleed screws. 16 Remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 17 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator (see Chapter 3

- it may be preferable to disconnect the bottom hose from the engine), insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 18 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following subSection). Also check that the radiator and cylinder block drain plugs, as applicable, are in place and tight.

20 Remove the expansion tank cap. 21 Open all the cooling system bleed screws

(see paragraph 4). 22 Some of the cooling system hoses are positioned at a higher level than the top of the radiator expansion tank. It is therefore necessary to use a “header tank” when refilling the cooling system, to reduce the possibility of air being trapped in the system. Although Peugeot dealers use a special header tank, the same effect can be achieved by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between the bottle and the expansion tank (see

illustration and Haynes Hint). 23 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion

tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will emerge from each of the bleed screws in turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and watch the next bleed screw in the system. Repeat the procedure until the coolant is

1•18 24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

20.4b Coolant bypass hose bleed screw (arrowed) - 1.4 litre engine

20.5a Cylinder block drain plug location (arrowed) - 1.4 litre engine

20.22 Peugeot cooling system “header tank” in position

20.5b Cylinder block drain plug location (arrowed) - 2.0 litre engine

20.4c Radiator bleed screw (arrowed)

Cut the bottom off an old antifreeze container to make a ‘header tank’ for use when refilling the cooling system. The seal at the point arrowed must be as airtight as possible

Page 36

emerging from the highest bleed screw in the cooling system and all bleed screws are securely tightened. Keep the “header tank” full during this procedure. 24 Once all the bleed screws are securely tightened, remove the “header tank” and refit the expansion tank cap. 25 Start the engine, and run it at 1500 rpm. Maintain this engine speed until the radiator cooling fan has cut in and out three times. 26 Allow the engine to run at idle speed for a few minutes. 27 Stop the engine, and wait for at least ten minutes. 28 Place a large wad of rag around the expansion tank cap, and around your hand, then carefully remove the expansion tank cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then push the cap down, turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and lift it off.

29 Check the coolant level, and if necessary top-up the expansion tank to just above the “MAXI” level mark (see “Weekly checks”). 30 Refit the expansion tank cap.

Antifreeze mixture

31 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. 32 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixedmetal cooling systems. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are indicated in the Specifications. 33 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 34 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 35 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.

21 Air filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 36 000 miles (60 000 km).

TU models

1 Slacken the retaining clips (where fitted), and disconnect the vacuum hose and breather hose from the front of the air cleaner housing-to-carburettor/throttle body duct (see illustration). Where the crimped-type Peugeot hose clips are fitted, cut the clips and discard them; use standard worm-drive hose clips on refitting. 2 Slacken the retaining clip securing the duct to the carburettor/throttle body. Release the retaining clips securing the lid to the top of the air cleaner housing. Lift the duct and air cleaner lid assembly away, and position it clear of the air cleaner housing (see

illustrations). 3 Lift the air cleaner element out of the housing (see illustration). 4 Fit the new element into the housing, and

secure it in position with the retaining clips. 5 Refit the sealing ring to the top of the filter

(where fitted), and refit the air cleaner-tocarburettor/throttle body duct. Ensure that the duct and its sealing rings are correctly seated, and securely tighten the retaining clips. 6 Reconnect the vacuum and breather hoses to the duct, and secure them in position with the retaining clips (where fitted).

XU models (except XU10J4 16-valve) with side-mounted air cleaner

7 Disconnect the air duct from the filter housing cover to the carburettor/airflow meter at the filter housing end (see illustration). 8 Release the clips and lift off the air cleaner top cover (see illustration). 9 Withdraw the filter element from the air cleaner body (see illustration). 10 Fit the new element in position in the air cleaner body making sure that it is the right way round.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service 1•19

21.2b . . . and remove the duct, positioning it clear of the air cleaner housing

21.8 Lifting off the top cover21.7 Air filter housing cover located in the

left-hand front of the engine compartment

21.3 Removing the air cleaner element on TU models

21.2a . . . then release the air cleaner lid retaining clips, and the duct clip . . .

21.1 On TU models disconnect the hoses from the front of the duct . . .

Warning: Take precautions against scalding, as the cooling system will be hot.

Page 37

11 Refit the top cover and attach the clips. 12 Reconnect the air duct.

XU models (except XU10J4 16-valve) with top-mounted air cleaner

13 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect the inlet duct from the front of the cylinder head cover (see illustration). 14 Slacken and remove the two retaining screws situated at the front of the cylinder head cover, then release the two air filter cover retaining clips. Remove the filter cover from the cylinder head cover, and withdraw the filter element (see illustrations). 15 Fit the new element in position in the cylinder head cover. Refit the filter cover, and secure it with its retaining screws and clips. 16 Reconnect the inlet duct to the cylinder head cover, and tighten its retaining clip.

XU10J4 16-valve models

17 Disconnect the air duct and remove the cover from the end of the air cleaner body. 18 Withdraw the air filter element noting which way round it is fitted. 19 Fit the new element in the body, ensuring that it is fitted the correct way round.

20 Refit the cover and air duct.

22 Ignition system check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Ignition systems incorporating a distributor

General component check

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be

checked whenever new spark plugs are installed in the engine. 3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before removing them, to avoid confusion when refitting. Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. If not, remove the lead again, and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the end of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and

grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, or pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the same manner as the spark plug end. If an ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of the lead by connecting the meter between the spark plug end of the lead and the segment inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in the same way. 8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Remove the distributor cap by unscrewing its retaining screws. Wipe it clean, and carefully inspect it inside and out for signs of cracks, carbon tracks (tracking) and worn, burned or loose contacts; check that the cap’s carbon brush is unworn, free to move against spring pressure, and making good contact with the rotor arm. Also inspect the cap seal for signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary. Remove the rotor arm from the distributor shaft and inspect it (see illustration). It is common practice to renew the cap and rotor arm whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are fitted. When fitting a new cap, remove the leads from the old cap one at a time, and fit them to the new cap in the exact same location - do not simultaneously remove all the leads from the old cap, or firing order confusion may occur. On refitting,

1•20 24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

21.9 Removing the air filter element 21.14a . . . then slacken the retaining screws (arrowed) . . .

21.14d . . . and withdraw the filter element21.14c Lift off the filter cover . . .21.14b . . . and release the retaining clips

21.13 Disconnect the intake duct from the front of the cylinder head cover . . .

Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than

those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken if working on the system with the ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test equipment.

Page 38

ensure that the arm is securely pressed onto the shaft, and tighten the cap retaining screws securely. 10 Even with the ignition system in first class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting, attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol can be very effective.

Ignition timing check and adjustment

11 Check the ignition timing as described in

Chapter 5B.

Static (distributorless) ignition systems

General component check

12 On all except 1998 cc 16-valve models,

check the condition of the HT leads as described above. On 1998 cc 16-valve models, there are no HT leads, so the only relevant check is that all the primary (LT) circuit wiring connectors are clean and free of corrosion.

Ignition timing check and adjustment

13 Refer to Chapter 5B.

23 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 Take the vehicle on a short run, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature. 2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. For improved access, jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Note

that, when refilling and checking the fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission. The transmission has two drain plugs: one on the sump, and another on the bottom of the differential housing (see illustration). 4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the fluid to drain completely into the container.

5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean the drain plug threads and those of the transmission casing. Fit a new sealing washer to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to the transmission, tightening each securely. If the car was raised for the draining operation, now lower it to the ground. Make sure that the car is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side). 6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward operation, adding the specified type of fluid to the transmission a little at a time via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission. Allow plenty of time for the fluid level to settle properly. 7 Once the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick, refit the dipstick. Start the engine, and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Switch the engine off, then recheck the level, topping-up if necessary. Take the car on a short run to fully distribute the new fluid around the transmission, then recheck the fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”.

24 Brake fluid renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is every 2 years, regardless of mileage.

1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit. 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open the first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the “MAX” level line.

3 Work through all the remaining bleed screws in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 4 When the operation is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 5 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service 1•21

23.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain

plugs (arrowed). Transmission is refilled

via the dipstick tube (1)

22.9 The rotor arm is a push fit on the distributor shaft

Warning: If the fluid is hot, take precautions against scalding. Clean the drain plugs, being

especially careful to wipe any metallic particles off the magnetic insert. Discard the original sealing washers; these should be renewed whenever they are disturbed.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so

use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture content can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker in colour than the new, making it easy to distinguish the two.

Page 39

25 Timing belt renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 72 000 miles (120 000 km).

Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2.

26 Manual transmission

oil level check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 36 000 miles (60 000 km). Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the transmission filler/level plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer.

Haynes Hint: It may be possible to use the square end fitting on a ratchet handle (as found in a typical socket set) to undo the plug.

1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil level is checked immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Turn the steering wheel on full left-hand lock, then where applicable remove the cover for access to the left-hand side of the transmission. 3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is on the left-hand end of the transmission. Unscrew the plug and clean it; discard the sealing washer (see illustration). 4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not necessarily indicate that the level is

correct. To ensure that a true level is established, wait until the initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see illustration). The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of the specified type. 5 Filling the transmission with oil is an extremely awkward operation; above all, allow plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly before checking it. If a large amount had to be added to the transmission, and a large amount flows out on checking the level, refit the filler/level plug and take the vehicle on a short journey so that the new oil is distributed fully around the transmission components, then recheck the level when it has settled again. 6 If the transmission has been overfilled so that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is removed, first check that the car is completely level (front-to-rear and side-toside), and allow any surplus oil to drain off into a suitable container. 7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing washer to the filler/level plug. Refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Wash off any spilt oil then where applicable refit the access cover.

27 Rear brake shoe check -

models with rear drum brakes

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 36 000 miles (60 000 km).

Remove the rear brake drums, and check the brake shoes for signs of wear or contamination. At the same time, also inspect the wheel cylinders for signs of leakage, and the brake drum for signs of wear. Refer to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9 for further information.

28 Pollen filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

1 On later models, a pollen filter is fitted. 2 Open the bonnet. 3 Release the securing clips, and withdraw

the plastic cover from the heater air inlet in the passenger’s side of the scuttle at the rear of the engine compartment. 4 Unclip the pollen filter from the heater air inlet duct (see illustration).

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

29 Emissions control

systems check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 Details of the emission control system components are given in Chapter 4D. 2 Checking consists simply of a visual check for obvious signs of damaged or leaking hoses and joints. 3 Detailed checking and testing of the evaporative and/or exhaust emission systems (as applicable) should be entrusted to a Peugeot dealer.

30 Road test

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment.

36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service

1•22 36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service

28.4 Removing the pollen filter from the heater air intake duct

26.4 Toping-up the transmission oil level

26.3 Using a square-section wrench to

unscrew the transmission filler/level plug

(MA transmission shown)

Page 40

2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly,

and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the

drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 11 On automatic transmission models, make sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without snatching, and without an increase in engine speed between changes. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Peugeot dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case the complete driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).

Braking system

13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to

one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service 1•23

Page 41

Engine (general)

Designation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TU3

Engine code:

UK models (10/92 to 08/93) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . KDX (TU3MC/L/Z)

Non-UK models (07/87 to 06/88) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K1A (TU3)

Non-UK models (07/88-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K1G (TU3A)

Non-UK models (11/87-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K3A (TU3TR)

Non-UK models (1993-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K2D (TU3F2/K)

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 cc

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.00 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.00 mm

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

No 1 cylinder location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . At transmission end of block

Compression ratio:

Except K3A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3 : 1

K3A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3 : 1

*The engine code is situated on the front left-hand end of the cylinder block. It is either stamped on a plate which is riveted to the block (aluminium block engines) or stamped directly on the cylinder block (cast-iron block engines). The code given in brackets is the factory identification number, and is not often referred to by this manual.

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed belt

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Camshaft bearing journal diameter (outside diameter):

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.950 to 36.925 mm

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.650 to 40.625 mm

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.250 to 41.225 mm

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.850 to 41.825 mm

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.450 to 42.425 mm

Cylinder head bearing journal diameter (inside diameter):

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.000 to 37.039 mm

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.700 to 47.739 mm

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.300 to 41.339 mm

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.900 to 41.939 mm

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.500 to 42.539 mm

Valve clearances (engine cold)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . .10

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Engine assembly/valve timing holes -

general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . .16

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

2A•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Page 42

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear-type, chain-driven off the crankshaft

Minimum oil pressure at 90°C:

Except K2D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 bars at 4000 rpm

K2D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 bars at 2000 rpm

Oil pressure warning switch operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 bars

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head cover nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Crankshaft pulley retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Timing belt tensioner pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Camshaft thrust fork retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Cylinder head bolts (aluminium block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 240°

Cylinder head bolts (cast-iron block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 120°

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 120°

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Sump retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Oil pump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Flywheel retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Piston oil jet spray tube bolts - 1587 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Main bearing ladder casting (aluminium block engine):

11 mm bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 45°

6 mm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Main bearing cap bolts (cast-iron block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 45°

2A•2 TU engine in-car repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 describes those repair procedures that can reasonably be carried out on the TU series engine while it remains in the car. If the engine has been removed from the car and is being dismantled as described in Part C, any preliminary dismantling procedures can be ignored. Refer to Part B for the XU series petrol engine. 2 Note that, while it may be possible physically to overhaul items such as the piston/connecting rod assemblies while the engine is in the car, such tasks are not normally carried out as separate operations. Usually, several additional procedures (not to mention the cleaning of components and oilways) have to be carried out. For this reason, all such tasks are classed as major overhaul procedures, and are described in Part C of this Chapter. 3 Part C describes the removal of the engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the full overhaul procedures that can then be carried out.

TU series engine description

4 The TU series engine is a well-proven engine which has been fitted to many previous Peugeot and Citroën vehicles. The engine is of the in-line four-cylinder, overhead camshaft (OHC) type, mounted transversely at the front of the car. The clutch and transmission are attached to its left-hand end. The 405 range is fitted with the 1360 cc version of the engine; carburettor and fuelinjected versions are available (carburettor versions not available in the UK). 5 The crankshaft runs in five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to No 2 main bearing (upper half) to control crankshaft endfloat. 6 The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins, which are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings - two compression rings and an oil control ring. 7 Where the cylinder block is made of aluminium, replaceable wet liners are fitted. Sealing O-rings are fitted at the base of each liner, to prevent the escape of coolant into the sump. 8 Where the cylinder block is made from cast

iron, the cylinder bores are an integral part of the cylinder block. On this type of engine the cylinder bores are sometimes referred to as having dry liners. 9 The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs, and operate in guides pressed into the cylinder head; the valve seat inserts are also pressed into the cylinder head, and can be renewed separately if worn. 10 The camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt, and operates the eight valves via rocker arms. Valve clearances are adjusted by a screw-and-locknut arrangement. The camshaft rotates directly in the cylinder head. The timing belt also drives the coolant pump. 11 Lubrication is by means of an oil pump, which is driven (via a chain and sprocket) off the right-hand end of the crankshaft. It draws oil through a strainer located in the sump, and then forces it through an externally-mounted filter into galleries in the cylinder block/crankcase. From there, the oil is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components.

Page 43

12 Throughout this manual, it is often necessary to identify the engines not only by their capacity, but also by their engine code which can be found on the left-hand end of the front face of the cylinder block. On models with an aluminium cylinder block the code is stamped on a plate which is riveted to the block, and on models with a cast iron cylinder block the number is stamped on a machined surface on the cylinder block, at the flywheel end. The first part of the engine number gives the engine code - eg “KDX” (see illustration).

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

13 The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting. c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment.

e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting. f) Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal. g) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal,

inspection and refitting.* h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising. j) Sump - removal and refitting. k) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting. l) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. m)Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal. n) Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting.

*The cylinder head must be removed for the successful completion of this work. Refer to Section 10 for details.

2 Compression test

1 When engine performance is down, or if

misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to

normal operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 On carburettor models, disable the ignition system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from the distributor cap and earthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar wire to make a good connection. 4 On fuel-injected models, disable the ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring connector from the ignition HT coil(s), referring to Chapter 5 for further information. 5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 6 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor. After one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 7 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 8 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars between any two cylinders indicates a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by graduallyincreasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression. 9 Although Peugeot do not specify exact compression pressures, as a guide, any cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be considered as less than healthy. Refer to a Peugeot dealer or other specialist if in doubt as to whether a particular pressure reading is acceptable. 10 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 11 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 12 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 13 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 14 If the compression reading is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the

case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised. 15 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

3 Engine assembly/valve

timing holes - general

information and usage

Note: Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the crankshaft/camshaft are locked in position. If the engine is to be left in this state for a long period of time, it is a good idea to place warning notices inside the vehicle, and in the engine compartment. This will reduce the possibility of the engine being accidentally cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to cause damage with the locking pins in place.

1 On all models, timing holes are drilled in the camshaft sprocket and in the rear of the flywheel. The holes are used to ensure that the crankshaft and camshaft are correctly positioned when assembling the engine (to prevent the possibility of the valves contacting the pistons when refitting the cylinder head), or refitting the timing belt. When the timing holes are aligned with the special holes in the cylinder head and the front of the cylinder block, suitable diameter pins can be inserted to lock both the camshaft and crankshaft in position, preventing them from rotating. Proceed as follows. 2 Remove the timing belt upper cover as described in Section 5. 3 The crankshaft must now be turned until the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head. The holes are aligned when the camshaft sprocket hole is in the 2 o’clock position, when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine. The crankshaft can be turned by using a spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, noting that it should always be rotated in a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). 4 With the camshaft sprocket hole correctly positioned, insert a 6 mm diameter bolt or drill through the hole in the front, left-hand flange of the cylinder block, and locate it in the timing hole in the rear of the flywheel (see illustration). Note that it may be necessary to

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

3.4 Insert a 6 mm bolt (arrowed) through hole in cylinder block flange and into

timing hole in the flywheel . . .

1.12 Engine code is stamped on a plate (arrowed) attached to the front of the

cylinder block - viewed from above

Page 44

rotate the crankshaft slightly, to get the holes to align. 5 With the flywheel correctly positioned, insert a 10 mm diameter bolt or a drill through the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket, and locate it in the hole in the cylinder head (see

illustration). 6 The crankshaft and camshaft are now

locked in position, preventing unnecessary rotation.

4 Cylinder head cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Where necessary, undo the bolts securing

the HT lead retaining clips to the rear of the cylinder head cover, and position the clips clear of the cover. 3 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect the breather hose from the left-hand end of the cylinder head cover (see illustration). Where the original crimped-type Peugeot hose clip is still fitted, cut it off and discard it. Use a standard worm-drive clip on refitting. 4 Undo the two retaining nuts, and remove the washer from each of the cylinder head cover studs (see illustration). 5 Lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove it along with its rubber seal (see illustration). Examine the seal for signs of damage and deterioration, and if necessary, renew it. 6 Lift off the spacer from each stud, and remove the oil baffle plate (see illustrations).

Refitting

7 Carefully clean the cylinder head and cover mating surfaces, and remove all traces of oil. 8 Fit the rubber seal over the edge of the cylinder head cover, ensuring that it is correctly located along its entire length (see

illustration). 9 Refit the oil baffle plate to the engine, and

locate the spacers in their recesses in the baffle plate. 10 Carefully refit the cylinder head cover to the engine, taking great care not to displace the rubber seal. 11 Check that the seal is correctly located, then refit the washers and cover retaining nuts, and tighten them to the specified torque. 12 Where necessary, refit the HT lead clips to

the rear of the head cover, and securely tighten their retaining bolts. 13 Reconnect the breather hose to the cylinder head cover, securely tightening its retaining clip, and reconnect the battery negative lead.

5 Timing belt covers - removal

and refitting

Removal

Upper cover

1 Slacken and remove the two retaining bolts

(one at the front and one at the rear), and remove the upper timing cover from the cylinder head (see illustrations).

Centre cover

2 Remove the upper cover as described in

paragraph 1, then free the wiring from its clips on the centre cover (see illustration). 3 Slacken and remove the three retaining bolts (one at the rear of the cover, beneath the engine mounting plate, and two directly above the crankshaft pulley), and manoeuvre the centre cover out from the engine compartment (see illustration).

Lower cover

4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described

in Chapter 1. 5 Remove the upper and centre covers as described in paragraphs 1 to 3.

4.8 On refitting, ensure the rubber seal is located on the cylinder head cover

2A•4 TU engine in-car repair procedures

3.5 . . . then insert a 10 mm bolt through

the cam sprocket timing hole, and locate it

in the cylinder head

4.4 . . . then slacken and remove the cover retaining nuts and washers (arrowed) . . .

4.6b . . . and remove the oil baffle plate4.6a Lift off the spacers

(second one arrowed) . . .

4.5 . . . and lift off the cylinder head cover4.3 Disconnect the breather hose from the

cylinder head cover . . .

Page 45

6 Undo the three crankshaft pulley retaining

bolts and remove the pulley, noting which way round it is fitted (see illustrations). 7 Slacken and remove the single retaining bolt, and slide the lower cover off the end of the crankshaft (see illustration).

Refitting

Upper cover

8 Refit the cover, ensuring it is correctly

located with the centre cover, and tighten its retaining bolts.

Centre cover

9 Manoeuvre the centre cover back into

position, ensuring it is correctly located with the lower cover, and tighten its retaining bolts. 10 Clip the wiring loom into its retaining clips on the front of the centre cover, then refit the upper cover as described in paragraph 8.

Lower cover

11 Locate the lower cover over the timing

belt sprocket, and tighten its retaining bolt. 12 Fit the pulley to the end of the crankshaft, ensuring it is fitted the correct way round, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. 13 Refit the centre and upper covers as described above, then refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.

6 Timing belt -

general information, removal and refitting

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 or

105.5 belt tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.

General information

1 The timing belt drives the camshaft and coolant pump from a toothed sprocket on the front of the crankshaft. If the belt breaks or slips in service, the pistons are likely to hit the

valve heads, resulting in extensive (and expensive) damage. 2 The timing belt should be renewed at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy in operation (a “scraping” noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fail.

Removal

4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 5 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock both the camshaft sprocket and the flywheel in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the locking tools are in position. 6 Remove the timing belt centre and lower covers as described in Section 5. 7 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the retaining nut. 8 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or similar to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist) (see illustration). Slip the belt off the sprockets. 9 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew the belt if there is the slightest

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

5.2 Free the wiring loom from its retaining clip . . .

5.6b . . . and remove the crankshaft pulley5.6a Undo the three retaining bolts

(arrowed) . . .

5.3 . . . then undo the three bolts (locations arrowed) and remove the centre belt cover

5.1b . . . and remove the upper timing belt cover

5.1a Undo the two retaining bolts (arrowed) . . .

5.7 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the lower timing belt cover

Page 46

doubt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul, and has covered more than 36 000 miles (60 000 km) with the existing belt fitted, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing when compared to the cost of repairs, should the belt break in service. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak, and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil.

Refitting

10 Prior to refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that the tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described in Section 7. Make sure that the locking tools are still in place, as described in Section 3. 11 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position, ensuring the arrows on the belt are pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise, when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). 12 Do not twist the timing belt sharply while refitting it. Fit the belt over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Make sure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Fit the belt over the coolant pump sprocket and tensioner pulley. Ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 13 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut. Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, then retighten the nut. Tension the timing belt as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Tensioning without the special electronic measuring tool

Note: If this method is used, ensure that the

belt tension is checked by a Peugeot dealer at the earliest possible opportunity.

14 Peugeot dealers use a special tool to tension the timing belt. A similar tool may be fabricated using a suitable square-section bar attached to an arm made from a metal strip; a hole should be drilled in the strip at a distance of 80 mm from the centre of the squaresection bar. Fit the tool to the hole in the

tensioner pulley, keeping the tool arm as close to the horizontal as possible, and hang a 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) weight (aluminium block engine) or

2.0 kg (4.4 lb) weight (cast-iron block engine) from the hole in the tool (see illustration). In the absence of an object of the specified weight, a spring balance can be used to exert the required force, ensuring that the spring balance is held at 90° to the tool arm. Slacken the pulley retaining nut, allowing the weight or force exerted (as applicable) to push the tensioner pulley against the belt, then retighten the pulley nut. 15 If this special tool is not available, an approximate setting may be achieved by pivoting the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise until it is just possible to twist the timing belt through 90° by finger and thumb, midway between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. The deflection of the belt at the mid-point between the sprockets should be approximately 6.0 mm. 16 Remove the locking tools from the camshaft sprocket and flywheel. 17 Using a suitable socket and extension bar on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft through four complete rotations in a clockwise direction (viewed from the righthand end of the engine). Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise. 18 Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, retension the belt as described in paragraph 14 or 15, then tighten the tensioner pulley nut to the specified torque. 19 Rotate the crankshaft through a further two turns clockwise, and check that both the camshaft sprocket and flywheel timing holes are still correctly aligned. 20 If all is well, refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 5, and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Tensioning using the special electronic measuring tool

21 Fit the special belt tensioning measuring

equipment to the “front run” of the timing belt, approximately midway between the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Position the tensioner pulley so that the belt is tensioned to a setting of 45 units, then retighten its retaining nut. 22 Remove the locking tools from the camshaft sprocket and flywheel, and remove the measuring tool from the belt. 23 Using a suitable socket and extension bar on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft through four complete rotations in a clockwise direction (viewed from the righthand end of the engine). Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise. 24 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut, and refit the measuring tool to the belt. If a “new” belt is being fitted, tension it to a setting of 40 units. If an “old” belt is being reused, tighten it to a setting of 36 units. Note:

Peugeot state that a belt becomes “old” after 1 hour’s use. With the belt correctly

tensioned, tighten the pulley retaining nut to the specified torque. 25 Remove the measuring tool from the belt, then rotate the crankshaft through another two complete rotations in a clockwise direction, so that both the camshaft sprocket and flywheel timing holes are realigned. Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise. Fit the measuring tool to the belt, and check the belt tension. A “new” belt should give a reading of 51 ± 3 units; an “old” belt should be 45 ± 3 units. 26 If the belt tension is incorrect, repeat the procedures in paragraphs 24 and 25. 27 With the belt tension correctly set, refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 5, and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

7 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: This Section describes the removal and refitting of the components concerned as individual operations. If more than one of them is to be removed at the same time, start by removing the timing belt as described in Section 6; remove the actual component as described below, ignoring the preliminary dismantling steps.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Position the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock both the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position.

Camshaft sprocket

3 Remove the centre timing belt cover as

described in Section 5.

2A•6 TU engine in-car repair procedures

6.8 Mark the direction of rotation on the belt, if it is to be re-used

6.14 Using the Peugeot special tool to tension the timing belt

Page 47

4 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley

retaining nut. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the retaining nut. 5 Disengage the timing belt from the sprocket, and move the belt clear, taking care not to bend or twist it sharply. Remove the locking pin from the camshaft sprocket. 6 Slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is slackened, a sprocket-holding tool will be required. In the absence of the special Peugeot tool, an acceptable substitute can be fabricated as follows. Use two lengths of steel strip (one long, the other short), and three nuts and bolts; one nut and bolt forms the pivot of a forked tool, with the remaining two nuts and bolts at the tips of the “forks” to engage with the sprocket spokes as shown in the accompanying “Tool Tip”. Do not attempt to use the sprocket locking pin to prevent the sprocket from rotating whilst the bolt is slackened. 7 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as described in Section 8.

Crankshaft sprocket

8 Remove the centre and lower timing belt

covers as described in Section 5. 9 Remove the timing belt from the sprockets as described in Section 6. 10 To prevent crankshaft rotation whilst the sprocket retaining bolt is slackened, select 4th gear, and have an assistant apply the brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, lock the flywheel ring gear, using an arrangement similar to that shown (see illustration). Do not be tempted to use the flywheel locking pin to prevent the crankshaft from rotating; temporarily remove the locking pin from the rear of the flywheel prior to slackening the pulley bolt, then refit it once the bolt has been slackened. Do not allow the crankshaft to turn more than a few degrees while loosening the bolt otherwise the pistons may touch the valves. 11 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer, then slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft (see illustrations). Refit the locating pin to the rear of the timing hole in the rear of the flywheel. 12 If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the crankshaft, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. If necessary, also slide the flanged spacer off the end of the crankshaft (see illustration). Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it (refer to Section 14).

Tensioner pulley

13 Remove the centre timing belt cover as

described in Section 5.

14 Slacken and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining nut, and slide the pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the mounting stud for signs of damage and, if necessary, renew it.

Inspection

15 Clean the sprockets thoroughly, and renew any that show signs of wear, damage or cracks. 16 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not use any strong solvent which may enter the pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates freely about its hub, with no sign of stiffness or free play. Renew the tensioner pulley if there is any doubt about its condition, or if there are any obvious signs of wear or damage.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket

17 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to

the rear of the sprocket, then locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft. Ensure that the locating peg is correctly engaged with the cutout in the camshaft end. 18 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, whilst retaining the sprocket with the tool used on removal (see Tool Tip). 19 Realign the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket (see Section 3) with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head, and refit the locking pin. 20 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the

belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 21 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut. Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, then retighten the nut. 22 Tension the belt as described in paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6. 23 Refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 5.

Crankshaft sprocket

24 Where removed, locate the Woodruff key

in the crankshaft end, then slide on the

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

7.11b . . . then slide off the sprocket 7.12 Remove the flanged spacer if necessary

7.11a Remove the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . .

7.10 Use the fabricated tool shown to lock flywheel ring gear and prevent the

crankshaft rotating

Using a home-made tool to hold the camshaft sprocket stationary whilst the retaining bolt is tightened (shown with cylinder head removed)

Page 48

flanged spacer, aligning its slot with the Woodruff key. 25 Align the crankshaft sprocket slot with the Woodruff key, and slide it onto the end of the crankshaft. 26 Temporarily remove the locking pin from the rear of the flywheel, then refit the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation using the method employed on removal. Refit the locking pin to the rear of the flywheel. 27 Relocate the timing belt on the sprockets. Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 28 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut. Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, then retighten the nut. 29 Tension the belt as described in paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6. 30 Refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 5.

Tensioner pulley

31 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting

stud, and fit the retaining nut. 32 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the pulley side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, then tighten the pulley retaining nut securely. 33 Tension the belt as described in paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6. 34 Refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 5.

8 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed with the timing belt still in place, check first that the belt is free from oil contamination. (Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs of oil contamination are found; see Section 6.) Cover the belt to protect it from oil contamination while work is in progress. Ensure that all traces of oil are removed from the area before the belt is refitted.

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 7. 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until it

seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 7.

9 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked and adjusted only when the engine is cold.

1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. If the clearances are too big, the engine will be noisy (characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open too late and close too early. A more serious problem arises if the clearances are too small, however. If this is the case, the valves may not close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking). The clearances are checked and adjusted as follows. 2 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil baffle plate as described in Section 4. 3 The engine can now be turned using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt.

4 It is important that the clearance of each valve is checked and adjusted only when the valve is fully closed, with the rocker arm resting on the heel of the cam (directly opposite the peak). This can be ensured by carrying out the adjustments in the following sequence, noting that No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the engine. The correct valve clearances are given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. The valve locations can be determined from the position of the manifolds.

Valve fully Adjust valves open

No 1 exhaust No 3 inlet and No 4 exhaust No 3 exhaust No 4 inlet and No 2 exhaust No 4 exhaust No 2 inlet and No 1 exhaust No 2 exhaust No 1 inlet and No 3 exhaust

5 With the relevant valve fully open, check the clearances of the two valves specified. Clearances are checked by inserting a feeler blade of the correct thickness between the valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting screw. The feeler blade should be a light, sliding fit. If adjustment is necessary, slacken the adjusting screw locknut, and turn the

screw as necessary. Once the correct clearance is obtained, hold the adjusting screw and securely tighten the locknut. Recheck the valve clearance, and adjust again if necessary. 6 Rotate the crankshaft until the next valve in the sequence is fully open, and check the clearances of the next two specified valves. 7 Repeat the procedure until all eight valve clearances have been checked (and if necessary, adjusted), then refit the oil baffle plate and cylinder head cover as described in Section 4.

10 Camshaft and rocker arms -

removal, inspection and refitting

General information

1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head bolts. Although in theory, it is possible to undo the head bolts and remove the rocker arm assembly without removing the head, in practice, this is not recommended. Once the bolts have been removed, the head gasket will be disturbed, and the gasket will almost certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly cannot be done without removing the cylinder head and renewing the head gasket. 2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand end of the cylinder head, and it therefore cannot be removed without first removing the cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.

Removal

Rocker arm assembly

3 Remove the cylinder head as described in

Section 11. 4 To dismantle the rocker arm assembly, carefully prise off the circlip from the righthand end of the rocker shaft; retain the rocker pedestal, to prevent it being sprung off the end of the shaft. Slide the various components off the end of the shaft, keeping all components in their correct fitted order (see illustration). Make a note of each component’s correct fitted position and orientation as it is removed, to ensure it is fitted correctly on reassembly.

2A•8 TU engine in-car repair procedures

10.4 Remove the circlip, and slide the

components off the end of the rocker arm

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1

Page 49

5 To separate the left-hand pedestal and shaft, first unscrew the cylinder head cover retaining stud from the top of the pedestal; this can be achieved using a stud extractor, or alternatively, by using two nuts locked together. With the stud removed, unscrew the grub screw from the top of the pedestal, and carefully withdraw the rocker shaft (see

illustrations).

Camshaft

6 Remove the cylinder head as described in

Section 11. 7 With the head on a bench, remove the locking pin, then remove the camshaft sprocket as described in paragraphs 6 and 7 of Section 7. 8 Unbolt the housing from the left-hand end of the cylinder head, then undo the retaining bolt, and remove the camshaft thrust fork from the cylinder head (see illustration). 9 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the oil seal out of the righthand end of the cylinder head, then carefully slide out the camshaft (see illustrations). Discard the seal - a new one must be used on refitting.

Inspection

Rocker arm assembly

10 Examine the rocker arm bearing surfaces

which contact the camshaft lobes for wear ridges and scoring. Renew any rocker arms on which these conditions are apparent. If a rocker arm bearing surface is badly scored, also examine the corresponding lobe on the camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will be worn. Renew worn components as necessary. The rocker arm assembly can be dismantled as described in paragraphs 4 and 5. 11 Inspect the ends of the (valve clearance) adjusting screws for signs of wear or damage, and renew as required. 12 If the rocker arm assembly has been dismantled, examine the rocker arm and shaft bearing surfaces for wear ridges and scoring. If there are obvious signs of wear, the relevant rocker arm(s) and/or the shaft must be renewed.

Camshaft

13 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces

and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these conditions are apparent. Examine the condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the camshaft journals and in the cylinder head. If the head bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the cylinder head will need to be renewed. If the necessary measuring equipment is available, camshaft bearing journal wear can be checked by direct measurement, noting that No 1 journal is at the transmission end of the head. 14 Examine the thrust fork for signs of wear or scoring, and renew as necessary.

Refitting

Rocker arm assembly

15 If the rocker arm assembly was

dismantled, refit the rocker shaft to the lefthand pedestal, aligning its locating hole with the pedestal threaded hole. Refit the grub screw, and tighten it securely. With the grub screw in position, refit the cylinder head cover mounting stud to the pedestal, and tighten it securely. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the shaft, then slide on all removed components, ensuring each is correctly fitted in its original position. Once all components are in position on the shaft, compress the right-hand pedestal and refit the circlip. Ensure that the circlip is correctly located in its groove on the shaft. 16 Refit the cylinder head and rocker arm assembly as described in Section 11.

Camshaft

17 Ensure that the cylinder head and

camshaft bearing surfaces are clean, then liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes. Slide the camshaft back into position in the cylinder head. On carburettor engines, take care that the fuel pump operating lever is not trapped by the camshaft as it is slid into position. To prevent this, remove the fuel pump before refitting the camshaft, then refit it afterwards. 18 Locate the thrust fork with the left-hand end of the camshaft. Refit the fork retaining bolt, tightening it to the specified torque setting. 19 Ensure that the housing and cylinder head mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a smear of sealant to the housing mating surface. Refit the housing to the left-hand end of the head, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 20 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, then drive it into position until it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the seal lips should face inwards. 21 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in paragraphs 17 to 19 of Section 7. 22 Refit the cylinder head as described in Section 11.

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

10.8 Undo the retaining bolt, and remove the camshaft thrust fork (arrowed) . . .

10.9b . . . and slide out the camshaft10.9a . . . prise out the oil seal . . .

10.5b . . . then remove the grub screw10.5a To remove the left-hand pedestal,

lock two nuts together

and unscrew the stud . . .

Page 50

11 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 3 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil

baffle plate as described in Section 4. 4 Align the engine assembly/valve timing holes as described in Section 3, and lock both the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the tools are in position. 5 Note that the following text assumes that the cylinder head will be removed with both inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy assembly to handle. If it is wished to remove the manifolds first, proceed as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 6 Working as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system front pipe from the manifold. Where fitted, disconnect or release the lambda sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight of the exhaust. 7 Remove the air cleaner housing and inlet duct assembly as described in Chapter 4. 8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the following from the carburettor and inlet manifold as described in Chapter 4A:

a) Fuel feed hose from the pump and the

return hose from the anti-percolation chamber (plug all openings, to prevent loss of fuel and the entry of dirt into the

system). b) Accelerator cable. c) Choke cable. d) Carburettor heating element and idle cut-

off solenoid wiring connector(s). e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose, coolant

hose and all other relevant

breather/vacuum hoses from the

manifold.

9 On fuel injection engines, carry out the following operations as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4:

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses

from the throttle body/fuel rail (plug all

openings, to prevent loss of fuel and entry

of dirt into the fuel system). b) Disconnect the accelerator cable. c) On single-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical

connectors from the throttle body. d) On multi-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical

connectors from the throttle housing, fuel

injectors and (where necessary) the idle

speed auxiliary air valve. e) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit hose,

coolant hose(s) and all the other

relevant/breather hoses from the

manifold.

10 Remove the centre timing belt cover as described in Section 5. 11 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the retaining nut. 12 Disengage the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket, and position the belt clear of the sprocket. Ensure that the belt is not bent or twisted sharply. 13 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of the cylinder head). 14 Depress the retaining clip(s), and disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the electrical switch and/or sensor(s) which are screwed into the thermostat housing/cylinder head (as appropriate). Also where necessary, release the TDC connector from its support on the distributor bracket on the left-hand end of the cylinder head.

Carburettor models

15 Disconnect the LT wiring connectors from

the distributor and HT coil. Release the TDC sensor wiring connector from the side of the coil mounting bracket, and disconnect the vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum diaphragm unit. If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the distributor and ignition HT coil as described in Chapter 5. If the cylinder numbers are not already marked on the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being incorrectly connected on refitting. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, and remove the distributor cap and lead assembly.

Fuel-injected models

16 Disconnect the wiring connector from the

ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition HT coil as described in Chapter 5. If the cylinder numbers are not already marked on the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being incorrectly connected on refitting. Note that the HT leads should be disconnected from the spark plugs instead of the coil, and the coil and leads removed as an assembly.

All models

17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the

engine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head. 18 Working in the reverse of the sequence shown in illustration 11.38a, progressively slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand. 19 With all the cylinder head bolts removed, lift the rocker arm assembly off the cylinder head. Note the locating pins which are fitted to the base of each rocker arm pedestal. If any pin is a loose fit in the head or pedestal, remove it for safe-keeping. 20 On engines with a cast-iron cylinder

block, lift the cylinder head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly, especially if it is being removed complete with the manifolds. 21 On engines with an aluminium cylinder block, the joint between the cylinder head and gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must now be broken without disturbing the wet liners. To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt holes. Gently “rock” the cylinder head free towards the front of the car (see illustration). Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as well as by the tops of the liners. Note: If care

is not taken and the liners are moved, there is also a possibility of the bottom seals being disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the head. When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder

head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly, especially if it is being removed complete with the manifolds. 22 On all models, remove the gasket from the top of the block, noting the two locating dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the head for safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket - on some models it will be needed for identification purposes (see paragraphs 28 and 29).

Caution: On aluminium block engines, do not attempt to rotate the crankshaft with the cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet liners may be displaced. Operations that require the rotation of the crankshaft (eg cleaning the piston crowns), should only be carried out once the cylinder liners are firmly clamped in position. In the absence of the special Peugeot liner clamps, the liners can be clamped in position using large flat washers positioned underneath suitable-length bolts. Alternatively, the original head bolts could be temporarily refitted, with suitable spacers fitted to their shanks.

23 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the camshaft as described in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this Chapter.

Preparation for refitting

24 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard

2A•10 TU engine in-car repair procedures

11.21 Using two angled metal rods to free the cylinder head from the block

Page 51

plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Refer to paragraph 23 before turning the crankshaft on aluminium block engines. Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 25 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. 26 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part C of this Chapter if necessary. 27 When purchasing a new cylinder head gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the correct thickness is obtained. On some models only one thickness of gasket is available, so this is not a problem. However, on all other models, there are two different thicknesses available - the standard gasket which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly thicker “repair” gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use once the head gasket face has been machined. If the cylinder head has been machined, it should have the letter “R” stamped adjacent to the No 3 exhaust port, and the gasket should also have the letter “R” stamped adjacent to No 3 cylinder on its front upper face. The gaskets can also be identified as described in the following paragraph, using the cut-outs on the left-hand end of the gasket. 28 With the gasket fitted the correct way up on the cylinder block, there will be a single cut-out, or no cut-out at all, at the rear of the

left-hand side of the gasket identifying the engine type (ie. TU engine). In the centre of the gasket there may be another series of between 0 and 4 cut-outs, identifying the manufacturer of the gasket and whether or not it contains asbestos (these cut-outs are of little importance). The important cut-out location is at the front of the gasket; on the standard gasket there will be no cut-out in this position, whereas on the thicker “repair” gasket there will be a single cut-out (see illustration). Identify the gasket type, and ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket along to your Peugeot dealer, and have him confirm the gasket type. 29 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of each bolt, to check for stretching (although this is not a conclusive test, in the event that all ten bolts have stretched by the same amount). Although Peugeot do not actually specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is

strongly recommended that the bolts should be renewed as a complete set whenever they are disturbed. 30 On aluminium block engines, prior to refitting the cylinder head, check the cylinder liner protrusion as described in Part C of this Chapter.

Refitting

31 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase. Check that the two locating dowels are in position at each end of the cylinder block/crankcase surface and, if necessary, remove the cylinder liner clamps. 32 Position a new gasket on the cylinder block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its identification cut-outs are at the left-hand end of the gasket (see illustration) and the manufacturer’s name is uppermost. 33 Check that the flywheel and camshaft sprocket are still correctly locked in position with their respective tools then, with the aid of an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head assembly to the block, aligning it with the locating dowels (see illustration). 34 Ensure that the locating pins are in position in the base of each rocker pedestal, then refit the rocker arm assembly to the cylinder head (see illustration). 35 Apply a smear of grease to the threads, and to the underside of the heads, of the cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the use of Molykote G Rapid Plus grease (available from your Peugeot dealer - a sachet is supplied with the top-end gasket set); in the absence of the specified grease, a goodquality high-melting-point grease may be used. 36 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by hand only, until finger-tight. 37 Working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see

illustrations). 38 Once all the bolts have been tightened to

their Stage 1 setting, working again in the given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11

11.33 . . . then lower the cylinder head into position . . .

11.34 . . . and refit the rocker arm assembly

A Engine type identification cut-outs B Gasket manufacturer identification cut-outs C Gasket thickness identification cut-out

11.32 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the block . . .

11.28 TU engine series gasket markings

Page 52

that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy (see illustration). If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the bolt has been rotated through the correct angle during tightening. 39 On cast-iron block engines, it will then be necessary to tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle setting. 40 With the cylinder head bolts correctly tightened, refit the dipstick tube retaining bolt and tighten it securely. 41 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 42 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut. Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, then retighten the nut. 43 Tension the belt as described under the relevant sub-heading in Section 6, then refit the centre and upper timing belt covers as described in Section 5.

Carburettor models

44 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit

the distributor and HT coil as described in Chapter 5, ensuring that the HT leads are correctly reconnected. If the head was not stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring connector onto the coil bracket.

Fuel-injected models

45 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit

the ignition HT coil and leads as described in Chapter 5, ensuring that the leads are correctly reconnected. If the head was not stripped, simply reconnect the wiring connector to the HT coil.

All models

46 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the

coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end of the head.

47 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the thermostat housing, securely tightening their retaining clips. 48 Working as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks:

a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and

control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and fuel system components.

b) On carburettor models, reconnect and

adjust the choke and accelerator cables.

c) On fuel injection models, reconnect and

adjust the accelerator cable.

d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe

to the manifold. Where applicable, reconnect the lambda sensor wiring connector.

e) Refit the air cleaner housing and inlet

duct.

49 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 9. 50 On completion, reconnect the battery, and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

12 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the specified torque. If the engine is nearing its service interval when the oil and filter are due for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is also removed, and a new one fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then be refilled with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further information. 3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 4 Progressively slacken and remove all the sump retaining nuts and bolts. On cast-iron block engines, it may be necessary to unbolt the flywheel cover plate from the transmission to gain access to the left-hand sump bolts. 5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of your hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see

illustration). 6 While the sump is removed, take the

opportunity to check the oil pump pickup/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If necessary, remove the pump as described in Section 13, and clean or renew the strainer.

Refitting

7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s interior. 8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a coating of suitable sealant to the sump mating surface. 9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque. 10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.

11 Replenish the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

13 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the sump (refer to Section 12). 2 Slacken and remove the three bolts

2A•12 TU engine in-car repair procedures

11.37a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

11.38 . . . then through the angle specified for stage 2

12.5 Slacken and remove the sump

retaining nuts and bolts, then remove

the sump from the engine

11.37b Working in the sequence shown, tighten the head bolts first to the

stage 1 torque setting . . .

Page 53

securing the oil pump in position (see illustration). Disengage the pump sprocket

from the chain, and remove the oil pump. If the pump locating dowel is a loose fit, remove and store it with the retaining bolts for safekeeping.

Inspection

3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of damage and wear such as chipped or missing teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket is not available separately. It is also recommended that the chain and drive sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, is renewed at the same time. On aluminium block engines, renewal of the chain and drive sprocket is an involved operation requiring the removal of the main bearing ladder, and therefore cannot be carried out with the engine still fitted to the vehicle. On cast-iron block engines, the oil pump drive sprocket and chain can be removed with the engine in situ, once the crankshaft sprocket has been removed and the crankshaft oil seal housing has been unbolted. Refer to Part D for further information. 4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron block engines only), noting which way round they are fitted. 5 Examine the pump rotors and body for signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the complete pump assembly must be renewed. 6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The condition of the relief valve spring can only be measured by comparing it with a new one; if there is any doubt about its condition, it should also be renewed. Both the piston and spring are available individually. 7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of clogging or splitting. If the strainer is damaged, the strainer and cover assembly must be renewed. 8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and (where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer cover, then refit the cover to the pump body. Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts, tightening them securely.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in position, then engage the pump sprocket with its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening them to the specified torque setting.

10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.

14 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and flanged spacer as described in Section 7. Secure the timing belt clear of the working area, so that it cannot be contaminated with oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal can be levered out of position using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal housing (see illustration). 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip must face inwards. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. 5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a socket) which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal. The inner face of the seal must end up flush with the inner wall of the crankcase. 6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 7.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel (see Section 15). 8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of

the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a

self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal. 12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the flywheel as described in Section 15.

15 Flywheel - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (Chapter 7A), then remove the clutch assembly (Chapter 6). 2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement to that shown in illustration 7.10. Alternatively, bolt a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do not attempt to lock the flywheel in position using the locking pin described in Section 3. 3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining bolts, and discard them; they must be renewed whenever they are disturbed. 4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with the flywheel for safe-keeping.

Inspection

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed. However, it may be possible to have it surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. 6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. The temperature to which the new ring gear must be heated for installation is critical and, if not done accurately, the hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.

Refitting

7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13

14.2 Using a screwdriver to lever out the crankshaft front oil seal

13.2 Oil pump is retained by three bolts

If a suitable tap is not available, cut two slots into the threads of one of the old

flywheel bolts and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the threads.

Page 54

8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already precoated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. 10 Lock the flywheel using the method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. 11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking tool, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back and forth, or from side to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected even from new components, excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a

block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the right-hand engine mounting upper bracket to the bracket on the cylinder block. Remove the nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. 8 Lift the buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body. 9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them where necessary. 10 On reassembly, securely tighten the mounting rubber in the body. 11 Refit the buffer plate (where fitted) to the mounting rubber stud, then install the mounting bracket. 12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting. 13 Remove the jack from underneath the engine, and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Left-hand mounting

14 Remove the battery and tray (Chapter 5A). 15 Place a jack beneath the transmission,

with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the transmission. 16 Slacken and remove the mounting rubber’s centre nut, and two nuts, and remove the mounting from the engine compartment. 17 If necessary, undo the two retaining bolts and remove the mounting bracket from the body. Disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (see Chapter 6) then unscrew the retaining nuts and remove the bracket from the top of the transmission.

18 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them where necessary. 19 Refit the bracket to the transmission, tightening its mounting nuts to the specified torque. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as described in Chapter 6. Refit the mounting bracket to the vehicle body and tighten its bolts to the specified torque. 20 Fit the mounting rubber to the bracket and tighten its retaining nuts to the specified torque. Refit the mounting centre nut, and tighten it to the specified torque. 21 Remove the jack from underneath the transmission, then refit the battery as described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

22 If not already done, firmly apply the

handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 23 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the rear mounting link to the mounting on the rear of the cylinder block. 24 Remove the bolt securing the rear mounting link to the bracket on the underbody. Withdraw the link. 25 To remove the mounting assembly it will first be necessary to remove the right-hand driveshaft as described in Chapter 8. 26 With the driveshaft removed, undo the retaining bolts and remove the mounting from the rear of the cylinder block. 27 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage on all components, and renew them where necessary. 28 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refit the driveshaft (see Chapter 8). 29 Refit the rear mounting link, and tighten both its bolts to their specified torque settings. 30 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

2A•14 TU engine in-car repair procedures

Page 55

Engine (general)

Designation:

1580 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XU5

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XU7

1905 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XU9

1998 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XU10

Bore:

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.00 mm

1998 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm

Stroke:

1580 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.00 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.00 mm

1905 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.00 mm

1998 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 mm

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (viewed from the right-hand side of vehicle)

No 1 cylinder location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . At the transmission end of block

Compression ratio (typical):

1580 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.8 : 1 to 9.26 : 1 (according to model)

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.25 : 1

1905 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 : 1 to 9.3 : 1 (according to model)

1905 cc 16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7 : 1 to 10.4 : 1 (according to model)

1998 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 : 1

1998 cc 16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4 : 1

Chapter 2 Part B:

XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . .10

Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Compression test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Engine assembly/valve timing holes -

general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . .18

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .17

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

2B•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Page 56

Engine codes (UK models)*

1580 cc engine:

July 1987-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B2A (XU52C/K)

July 1989-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BDY (XU5M)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BDY (XU5M3/L/Z)

February 1991 to January 1995 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BDZ (XU5MZ)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BFZ (XU5JP/L/Z)

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LFZ (XU7JP/L/Z)

1905 cc engine:

July 1987 to 1990 No 8274818 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D2D (XU92C)

No 8274819-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D2H (XU92C/K)

March 1988 to No 8274818 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D5A (XU92CTR)

8274819-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D5A (XU92C)

July 1990-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D2H (XU92C)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DDZ (XU9M)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DKZ (XU9JAZ)

July 1987 to No 8274818 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6A (XU9J2)

1991-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6D (XU9J2)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6D (XU9J2/K)

February 1991 to October 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DFZ (XU9J1)

July 1987-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6C (XU9J4)

April 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DFW (XU9J4/Z)

1998 cc engine:

(1993-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RFX (XU10J2C/L/Z)

(1993-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RFY (XU10J4/L/Z)

Engine codes (Non-UK models)*

1580 cc engine:

July 1987-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B1E (XU51C)

November 1987 to June 1988 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B3B (XU51C)

July 1987 to June 1988 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BAY (XU5CP)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B5A (XU52C)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B1E (XU51C)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B2A (XU52C/K)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B5A (XU52C/TR)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BDY (XU5M3/L/Z)

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LFZ (XU7JP/L/Z)

1905 cc engine:

July 1987-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DFZ (XU9J1)

July 1987-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D2C (XU92C)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DFV (XU9J2)

July 1988-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D5A (XU92C/TR)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D2H (XU92C/K)

1991-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D6D (XU9J2/K)

1998 cc engine;

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RFX (XU10J2C/L/Z)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RFY (XU10J4/L/Z)

*The engine code is either stamped on a plate attached to the front left-hand end of the cylinder block on 1761 cc engines and stamped directly onto the front face of the cylinder block (just to the left of the oil filter) on 1998 cc engines. This is the code most often used by Peugeot. The code given in brackets is the factory identification number, and is not often referred to by Peugeot or this manual.

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed belt

No of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Camshaft bearing journal diameter (outside diameter):

1580 cc and 1905 cc models:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.980 to 26.959 mm

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.480 to 27.459 mm

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.980 to 27.959 mm

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.480 to 28.459 mm

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.975 to 35.950 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

2B•2 XU engine in-car repair procedures

Page 57

Camshaft (continued)

Cylinder head bearing journal diameter (inside diameter):

1580 cc and 1905 cc models:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.000 to 27.033 mm

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.500 to 27.533 mm

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.000 to 28.033 mm

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.500 to 28.533 mm

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.000 to 36.039 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

Valve clearances (except 16-valve engines)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear-type, chain-driven off the crankshaft right-hand end

Minimum oil pressure at 90°C:

XU5 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 bars at 4000 rpm

XU7 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3 bars at 4000 rpm

XU9 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bars at 4000 rpm

XU10 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2 bars at 4000 rpm

Oil pressure warning switch operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 bars

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

XU5, XU7 and XU9 engines

Cylinder head cover nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Crankshaft pulley retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 88

Timing belt tensioner pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Fully slacken each bolt in turn (see text), then tighten to:

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 300°

Sump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13

Oil pump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Big-end bearing cap nuts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Fully slacken all nuts, then tighten to:

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten through 70°

Main bearing cap nuts/bolts:

Retaining nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40

Centre bearing cap side bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Front oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:

Bracket-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Mounting bracket retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:

Mounting bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Mounting stud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Centre nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Engine/transmission rear mounting:

Mounting assembly-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Mounting bracket-to-mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Mounting bracket-to-subframe bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Camshaft cover securing bolts (XU9J4 series engines with grey gasket - see text):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•3

Page 58

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

XU10 engines

Cylinder head cover nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Crankshaft pulley retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Timing belt tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Camshaft bearing cap nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten through 160°

Sump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Oil pump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 10

Flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Big-end bearing cap nuts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Fully slacken all nuts, then tighten to:

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten through 70°

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

Piston oil jet spray tube bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Front oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:

Mounting bracket retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Curved retaining plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:

Mounting rubber-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Mounting stud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Centre nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Engine/transmission rear mounting:

Mounting assembly-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Mounting link-to-mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Mounting link-to-subframe bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

2B•4 XU engine in-car repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 describes those repair procedures that can reasonably be carried out on the XU series petrol engine, while it remains in the car. If the engine has been removed from the car and is being dismantled as described in Part C, any preliminary dismantling procedures can be ignored. Refer to Part A for information on the TU series petrol engine.

Note that, while it may be possible physically to overhaul items such as the piston/connecting rod assemblies while the engine is in the car, such tasks are not usually carried out as separate operations. Usually, several additional procedures (not to mention the cleaning of components and oilways) have to be carried out. For this reason, all such tasks are classed as major overhaul procedures, and are described in Part C of this Chapter.

Part C describes the removal of the engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the full overhaul procedures that can then be carried out.

XU series engine description

The XU series engine is a well-proven engine which has been fitted to many previous Peugeot and Citroën vehicles. The engine is of the in-line 4-cylinder type, mounted transversely at the front of the car. The clutch and transmission are attached to its left-hand end. The 405 range is available with 1580 cc (8-valve), 1761 cc (8-valve), 1905 cc (8- and 16-valve), and 1998 cc (8- and 16-valve) versions of the XU series engine. The 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines are of the DOHC (double overhead camshaft) type; all the others are SOHC (single overhead camshaft) engines.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to No 2 main bearing cap, to control crankshaft endfloat.

The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins. On 16-valve models, the gudgeon pins are a sliding fit in the connecting rod, and are secured with circlips. On all other models, they are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminum alloy pistons have three rings two compression rings and an oil control ring.

On 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc (both 8and 16-valve) models, the cylinder block is of

the “wet-liner” type. The cylinder block is cast in aluminium alloy, and the bores have replaceable cast-iron liners that are located from their top ends. Sealing O-rings are fitted at the base of each liner, to prevent the escape of coolant into the sump.

On all 1998 cc models (both 8- and 16-valve), the engine is of the conventional “dry-liner” type. The cylinder block is cast in iron, and no separate bore liners are fitted.

On 16-valve models, both inlet and exhaust camshafts are driven by a toothed timing belt. The camshafts operate the sixteen valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets (fitted to the cam followers), thus eliminating the need to manually adjust the valve clearances. Both camshafts run in bearing caps which are bolted to the top of the cylinder head. The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs, and operate in guides pressed into the cylinder head.

On 8-valve models, the camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt, and it operates the eight valves via followers located beneath each cam lobe. The valve clearances are adjusted by shims, positioned between the followers and the tip of the valve stem. The camshaft runs in bearing caps which are bolted to the top of the cylinder head. The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs, and operate in guides pressed

Page 59

into the cylinder head. Both the valve seats and guides can be renewed separately if worn.

On all models, the water pump is driven by

the timing belt.

Lubrication is by means of an oil pump which is driven (via a chain and sprocket) off the crankshaft right-hand end. It draws oil through a strainer located in the sump, and then forces it through an externally-mounted filter into galleries in the cylinder block/crankcase. From there, the oil is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft. The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft; the camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components. On 16-valve models, an oil cooler is mounted beneath the oil filter cartridge, to keep the oil temperature constant under severe operating conditions. The oil cooler is supplied with coolant from the engine cooling system.

Throughout the manual, it is often necessary to identify the engines not only by their cubic capacity, but also by their engine code. The engine code consists of three letters (eg. RFY). On 1.6, 1.8 and 1.9 litre models the code is stamped on a plate attached to the front, left-hand end of the cylinder block, and on 2.0 litre models the engine code is stamped directly onto the front face of the cylinder block, on the machined surface located just to the left of the oil filter (next to the crankcase vent hose union).

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head cover - removal and

refitting. c) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. e) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment. f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting. g) Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal. h) Camshaft(s) and followers - removal,

inspection and refitting. i) Valve clearances - checking and

adjustment. j) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. k) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. l) Sump - removal and refitting. m)Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting. n) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. o) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal. p) Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection

and refitting. q) Oil cooler (1998 cc 16-valve models) -

removal and refitting.

2 Compression test

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 2.

3 Engine assembly/valve

timing holes - general

information and usage

Note: Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the crankshaft/camshaft are locked in position. If the engine is to be left in this state for a long period of time, it is a good idea to place suitable warning notices inside the vehicle, and in the engine compartment. This will reduce the possibility of the engine being accidentally cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to cause damage with the locking pins in place.

1 On all models, timing holes are drilled in the camshaft sprocket(s) and crankshaft pulley. The holes are used to align the crankshaft and camshaft(s), to prevent the possibility of the valves contacting the pistons when refitting the cylinder head, or when refitting the timing belt. When the holes are aligned with their corresponding holes in the cylinder head and cylinder block (as appropriate), suitable diameter pins can be inserted to lock both the camshaft and crankshaft in position, preventing them rotating unnecessarily. Proceed as follows. 2 Remove the timing belt upper cover as described in Section 6. 3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 4 From underneath the front of the car, prise out the two retaining clips and remove the plastic cover from the wing valance, to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt. Where necessary, unclip the coolant hoses from the bracket, to improve access further. The crankshaft can then be turned using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the pulley bolt. Note that the crankshaft must always be turned in a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-hand side of vehicle).

16-valve models

5 Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the timing holes in both camshafts are aligned with their corresponding holes in the cylinder head. The holes are aligned when the inlet camshaft sprocket hole is in the 8 o’clock position, and the exhaust camshaft sprocket is in the 6 o’clock position, when viewed from the righthand end of the engine. 6 With the camshaft sprocket holes correctly positioned, insert a 6 mm diameter bolt (or a drill of suitable size), through the timing hole in the crankshaft pulley, and locate it in the corresponding hole in the end of the cylinder block. Note that it may be necessary to rotate

the crankshaft slightly, to get the holes to align. 7 With the crankshaft pulley locked in position, insert a 6 mm diameter bolt (or a drill) through the timing hole in each camshaft sprocket, and locate it in the cylinder head. Note that the special Peugeot locking pins are actually 8 mm in diameter, with only their ends stepped down to 6 mm to locate in the cylinder head (see illustration). To simulate this, wrap insulation tape around the outer end of the bolt or drill, to build it up until it is a snug fit in the camshaft hole. 8 The crankshaft and camshafts are now locked in position, preventing unnecessary rotation.

All other models

9 Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket is aligned with its corresponding hole in the cylinder head. Note that the hole is aligned when the sprocket hole is in the 8 o’clock position, when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine. 10 On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc models having a semi-automatic timing belt tensioner, a 10 mm diameter bolt (or a drill of suitable size) will be required to lock the crankshaft pulley in position. 11 On later 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, and all 1761 and 1998 cc 8-valve models (which have a manually-adjusted timing belt tensioner pulley) the pulley can be locked in position with an 8 mm diameter bolt or drill. The special Peugeot locking pin is actually 10 mm in diameter, with only its end stepped down to 8 mm to locate in the cylinder block. To simulate this, wrap insulation tape around the outer end of the bolt/drill, to build it up until it is a snug fit in the pulley hole. 12 With the camshaft sprocket holes correctly positioned, insert the required bolt or drill through the timing hole in the crankshaft pulley, and locate it in the corresponding hole in the end of the cylinder block. Note that it may be necessary to rotate the crankshaft slightly, to get the holes to align. 13 With the crankshaft pulley locked in position, insert the appropriate bolt or drill through the timing hole in the camshaft

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•5

3.7 Camshaft sprocket locking pins in position (arrowed) -

1998 cc 16-valve models

Page 60

sprocket and locate it in the cylinder head

(see illustration). 14 The crankshaft and camshaft are now

locked in position, preventing rotation.

4 Cylinder head cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models

2 On 1580 cc models, remove the air cleaner-

to-throttle body duct, and the air cleaner housing, as described in Chapter 4. 3 On 1905 cc models, remove the air cleaner housing as described in Chapter 4, and position the inlet duct clear of the cylinder head cover. 4 On all models, slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the breather hose from the top of the cylinder head cover. Where the original crimped-type hose clip is still fitted, cut it off and discard it. Replace it with a standard worm-drive hose clip on refitting. 5 Undo the two nuts/bolts securing the HT lead retaining bracket to the cylinder head, and position the bracket clear of the head cover (see illustration). 6 Slacken and remove the two remaining cylinder head cover retaining bolts, along with their sealing washers.

7 Lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove it along with its rubber seal. Examine the seal for signs of damage and deterioration, and if necessary, renew it. Also examine the retaining bolt sealing washers for signs of damage, and renew if required.

1761 cc and 1998 cc (8-valve) models

8 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect

the breather hoses from the front right-hand end of the cover. Where the original crimpedtype hose clips are still fitted, cut them off and discard them; use standard worm-drive hose clips on refitting. 9 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect the air cleaner-to-throttle housing duct from the front of the cylinder head cover. Also remove the inlet duct from the left-hand side of the head cover. 10 Release the two retaining clips, then undo the two retaining screws located at the front, and remove the air cleaner element cover from the cylinder head cover. Remove the air cleaner element, and store it with the cover. 11 Slacken and remove the ten cylinder head cover retaining nuts, lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove it along with its rubber seal (see illustration). Examine the seal for signs of damage and deterioration, and if necessary, renew it.

16-valve models

12 Refer to the information given in

Chapter 4 on depressurising the fuel system. Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from their unions at the front of the head cover. Where the original crimped-type hose clips are still fitted, cut them off and discard them; use standard worm-drive hose clips on refitting. Plug both the hose and fuel rail ends, to prevent the possible entry of dirt into the fuel system. Mop up any spilt fuel. 13 Undo the retaining nut and bolt securing the fuel hose retaining clips to the top of the cylinder head cover, and remove both clips. Position both fuel hoses clear of the head cover, so that they do not hinder the removal procedure. 14 Slacken and remove the remaining seven retaining bolts, and lift the spark plug access cover off the cylinder head cover.

15 Pull each ignition HT coil off its spark plug. Trace the coil wiring back to its connector on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Rotate the locking ring anti-clockwise, disconnect it from the main wiring loom, and remove the wiring and coils as an assembly. 16 Disconnect the breather hose from the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Any original crimped-type hose clips can be discarded, as already mentioned. 17 Slacken and remove the twelve cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the correct fitted positions of any brackets or clips. Note that the bolts are of four different lengths, and it is important that each is refitted in the correct position. To avoid confusion on refitting, remove each bolt in turn, and store it in its correct fitted position by pushing it through a clearly-marked cardboard template. 18 Lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove it along with its rubber seal. Recover the four spark plug hole sealing rings from the cylinder head. Examine all seals for damage and deterioration, and renew as necessary.

Refitting

1580 cc and 1905 cc models

19 Carefully clean the cylinder head and

cover mating surfaces, and remove all traces of oil. 20 Fit the rubber seal over the edge of the cylinder head cover, ensuring that it is correctly located along its entire length. 21 Carefully refit the cylinder head cover to the engine, taking great care not to displace the rubber seal. 22 Check that the seal is correctly located, then refit the cover retaining bolts and sealing washers (not forgetting to position the HT lead bracket under the centre bolt head), and tighten them to the specified torque. 23 Refit the remaining HT lead bracket retaining bolt, and tighten it securely. 24 Reconnect the breather hose to the cylinder head cover, and securely tighten its retaining clip. 25 Refit the air cleaner housing and duct as described in Chapter 4, and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models

26 Clean the cylinder head and cover mating

surfaces, and remove all traces of oil. 27 Locate the rubber seal in the cover groove, ensuring that it is correctly located along its entire length. 28 Carefully refit the cylinder head cover to the engine, taking great care not to displace the rubber seal. 29 Check that the seal is correctly located, then refit the cover retaining nuts, and tighten them evenly and progressively to the specified torque in the order shown (see

illustration). 30 Refit the air cleaner element, and install

the element cover. Securely tighten the cover retaining screws, and secure it in position with the retaining clips.

2B•6 XU engine in-car repair procedures

3.13 Camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley locking pins in position

(1580 cc model shown)

4.11 Cylinder head cover retaining nuts (arrowed) - 1761 cc and

1998 cc (8-valve) models

4.5 On 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, undo the retaining bolts/nuts and move the HT

lead retaining clips clear of the head cover

Page 61

31 Reconnect the breather hoses, inlet duct

and throttle housing duct to the cover, tightening their retaining clips securely. Reconnect the battery.

16-valve models

32 Carry out the operations described in

paragraphs 26 to 28. Fit the four spark plug hole seals to the recesses in the cylinder head

(see illustration). 33 Check that the seal is correctly located,

then refit the cover retaining bolts. Ensure that each bolt is refitted in its correct location, and that all retaining clips/brackets are correctly positioned. Tighten the cylinder head cover retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque. 34 Reconnect the breather hose to the end of the cover, and securely tighten its clip. 35 Connect the HT coil wiring loom to its wiring connector, and secure it in position by rotating the locking ring. Ensuring that the wiring is correctly routed, reconnect the HT coils to the tops of the spark plugs. 36 Refit the spark plug access cover to the head cover, and refit its retaining bolts (not forgetting the fuel hose retaining clip). Ensure that the HT coil wiring is correctly located in the cover cutout, and that the fuel hoses are positioned under the retaining clip, then securely tighten the retaining bolts.

37 Fit the rear fuel hose retaining clip, and securely tighten its retaining nut. 38 Reconnect the feed and return hoses to their respective fuel rail unions, ensuring that their retaining clips are securely tightened. 39 Reconnect the battery negative terminal. On completion, start the engine and check the fuel hose unions for signs of leakage.

40 Note: From early 1992 a modified camshaft cover gasket has been fitted in production to 1905 cc models. The later type

of gasket can be identified from its grey colour (the earlier type of gasket was coloured black). The later type gasket can be fitted to earlier engines, but the following procedure must be followed when fitting the later type gasket to any engine.

a) Apply silicon sealant to the corners of

Nos 1 and 5 camshaft bearing caps, then after refitting the cover tighten the securing bolts to the Stage 1 torque wrench setting in the order shown (see illustrations).

b) Start the engine, and run it at idle speed

for 10 minutes with the bonnet closed.

c) Open the bonnet and check for leaks. If

evident, do not tighten the bolts further, but remove the cover to establish the cause, then repeat the fitting operations.

d) Allow the engine to cool for 4 hours, then

tighten the ten outer cover bolts to the Stage 2 torque wrench setting in the order shown (see illustration). This procedure allows for the settling of the gasket, which takes place due to the heat produced by the engine.

5 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).

16-valve models

2 Undo the four pulley retaining bolts and

remove the pulley from the end of the crankshaft, noting which way around it is fitted. If the pulley locating roll pin is a loose fit, remove it and store it with the pulley for safe-keeping. If necessary, the pulley can be prevented from rotating as described in paragraph 3.

All other models

3 To prevent crankshaft turning whilst the

pulley retaining bolt is being slackened, select 4th gear and have an assistant apply the brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, lock the flywheel ring gear using the arrangement shown (see illustration). Do not attempt to lock the pulley by inserting a bolt/drill through the pulley timing hole.

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•7

4.40a Spark plug hole oil seal (2). Apply silicon sealant to the areas

arrowed (3) - XU9J4 engine

5.3 Use a fabricated tool like this one to lock the flywheel ring gear and prevent

crankshaft rotation

4.40c Cylinder head cover bolt stage 2

tightening sequence - XU9J4 engines with

later type camshaft cover gasket

4.40b Cylinder head cover bolt stage 1

tightening sequence - XU9J4 engines with

later type camshaft cover gasket

4.32 Fitting a spark plug hole oil seal4.29 On 1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve

models tighten the cylinder cover retaining

nuts in the sequence shown

Page 62

4 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer, then slide the pulley off the end of the crankshaft. If the pulley locating roll pin or Woodruff key (as applicable) is a loose fit, remove it and store it with the pulley for safekeeping.

Refitting

16-valve models

5 Ensure that the locating roll pin is in

position in the crankshaft. Offer up the pulley, ensuring that it is the correct way round. Locate the pulley on the roll pin, then refit the retaining bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. If necessary, prevent the pulley from rotating as described in paragraph

3. 6 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.

All other models

7 Ensure that the Woodruff key is correctly

located in its crankshaft groove, or that the roll pin is in position (as applicable). Refit the pulley to the end of the crankshaft, aligning its locating groove or hole with the Woodruff key or pin. 8 Thoroughly clean the threads of the pulley retaining bolt, then apply a coat of locking compound to the bolt threads. 9 Refit the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, preventing the crankshaft from turning using the method employed on removal. 10 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.

6 Timing belt covers - removal

and refitting

1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models

Upper cover

1 Release the retaining clips, and free the fuel

hoses from the top of the cover. 2 Undo the two cover retaining bolts (situated at the base of the cover), and remove the cover from the engine compartment.

Centre cover - early (pre-1992) models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

3 Slacken and remove the four cover

retaining nuts and bolts (two directly below the mounting bracket, and two at the base of the cover), then manoeuvre the cover upwards out of the engine compartment.

Centre cover - later (1992-on) models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley

4 Slacken and remove the two cover retaining

bolts (located directly beneath the mounting bracket). Move the cover upwards to free it from the two locating pins situated at the base

of the cover, and remove it from the engine compartment.

Lower cover

5 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described

in Section 5. 6 Remove the centre cover as described above. 7 On early models, undo the three lower cover retaining bolts and remove the cover from the engine. 8 On later models, undo the two cover retaining bolts and remove the cover from the engine.

Lower (inner) cover - early (pre-1992) models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

9 Remove the timing belt as described in

Section 7. 10 Slacken and remove the remaining bolts, noting their correct fitted positions, and remove the cover from the end of the cylinder block.

1761 cc models

Upper cover

11 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1

and 2.

Centre cover

12 Proceed as described in paragraph 4.

Lower cover

13 Remove the crankshaft pulley as

described in Section 5. 14 Remove the centre cover as described in paragraph 4. 15 Undo the two cover retaining bolts, and remove the cover from the engine.

1905 cc 16-valve models

Upper cover

16 Release the quick release clips from the

timing belt cover. 17 Unscrew the upper cover securing screws and withdraw the cover.

Lower cover

18 Remove the crankshaft pulley as

described in Section 5. 19 Unscrew the lower cover securing screws and withdraw the cover.

1998 cc 8-valve models

Upper cover

20 Release the retaining clip, and free the

fuel hoses from the top of the timing belt cover. 21 Slacken and remove the two cover retaining bolts, then lift the upper cover upwards and out of the engine compartment.

Lower cover

22 Remove the crankshaft pulley as

described in Section 5. 23 Slacken and remove the three retaining bolts, then remove the lower timing belt cover from the engine.

1998 cc 16-valve models

Upper (outer) cover

24 Undo the two upper retaining bolts

securing the outer cover to the inner cover. Slide the cover retaining clip upwards to release it from its fasteners (see illustration). 25 Ease the outer cover away from the engine. Lift it upwards, freeing it from its locating bolts at the base of the cover, and out of the engine compartment.

Lower cover

26 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 5). 27 Remove the upper (outer) cover as

described above. 28 Slacken and remove the two upper cover lower locating bolts, along with their spacers. Undo the two lower cover retaining bolts, and remove the cover from the engine.

Upper (inner) cover

29 Remove the timing belt (see Section 7). 30 Remove both camshaft sprockets as

described in Section 8. 31 Undo the six bolts securing the cover to the side of the cylinder head, and remove the cover from the engine.

Refitting

32 Refitting is a reversal of the relevant removal procedure, ensuring each cover section is correctly located, and the cover nuts and/or bolts are correctly tightened.

7 Timing belt - general

information, removal and refitting

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC belt tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension on all 1992-on models. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. In this case, the tension must be checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.

2B•8 XU engine in-car repair procedures

6.24 Timing belt upper (outer) cover retaining clip (arrowed) -

1998 cc 16-valve models

Page 63

General information

1 The timing belt drives the camshaft(s) and coolant pump from a toothed sprocket on the front of the crankshaft. If the belt breaks or slips in service, the pistons are likely to hit the valve heads, resulting in extensive (and expensive) damage. 2 The timing belt should be renewed at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil, or if noisy in operation (a “scraping” noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fail.

Removal

Early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 5 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position. 6 Remove the centre and lower timing belt covers as described in Section 6. 7 Slacken (but do not remove) the two nuts securing the tensioner assembly to the end of the cylinder block (see illustration). Loosen the tensioner cam spindle locknut, located on the rear of cylinder block flange. 8 Using a suitable open-ended spanner on the square-section end of the tensioner cam spindle, rotate the cam until the tensioner spring is fully compressed and the belt tension is relieved (see illustration). Hold the cam in this position, and tighten the locknut. 9 If required for improved access to the timing belt, remove the right-hand engine mounting bracket as follows: Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 10 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the engine/transmission right-hand mounting bracket to the engine bracket. Remove the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.

Undo the three bolts securing the engine bracket to the end of the cylinder head/block, and remove the bracket. 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the belt off the sprockets. Note that the crankshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul, and has covered more than 36 000 miles (60 000 km) with the existing belt fitted, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in service. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil.

Later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models with a manuallyadjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc (8-valve) models

13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 14 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position. 15 Remove the centre and/or lower timing belt cover(s) - see Section 6 (as applicable). 16 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then securely retighten the retaining bolt. 17 On 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc models, dismantle the engine right-hand mounting as described above in paragraphs 9 and 10. 18 On all models, remove and inspect the timing belt (see paragraphs 11 and 12).

1905 cc 16-valve models

19 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 20 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock the

camshaft sprockets and crankshaft pulley in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position. 21 Remove the timing belt lower cover as described in Section 6. 22 Loosen the timing belt front and rear tensioner pulley retaining bolts. Pivot the front pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then securely retighten the retaining bolt. Similarly pivot the rear pulley in an anti-clockwise direction and retighten the retaining bolt. 23 Check that the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft locking pins are still in position, then remove and inspect the timing belt as described in paragraphs 11 and 12.

1998 cc 16-valve models

24 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 25 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, and lock the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft pulley in position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position. 26 Remove the timing belt lower cover as described in Section 6. 27 Loosen the timing belt rear tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable squaresection key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the bolt (see illustration).

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•9

7.27 Timing belt arrangement 1998 cc 16-valve models

7.8 . . . and the spindle locknut, then

release the belt tension by turning the

tensioner cam spindle

7.7 On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, slacken the tensioner assembly

retaining nuts . . .

1 Front tensioner assembly 2 Rear tensioner pulley 3 Camshaft sprocket timing holes 4 Crankshaft pulley timing hole 5 Belt tension measuring area

(using Peugeot special tool)

Page 64

28 Loosen the two front tensioner assembly retaining bolts. Move the tensioner pulley away from the belt, using the same squaresection key on the pulley backplate. 29 Check that the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft locking pins are still in position, then remove and inspect the timing belt as described in paragraphs 11 and 12.

Refitting

Early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

30 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the

timing belt sprockets. Check that the tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described in Section 8. 31 Ensure that the camshaft sprocket locking pin is still in position. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and insert the locking pin through the pulley timing hole to ensure that the crankshaft is still correctly positioned. 32 Remove the crankshaft pulley. Manoeuvre the timing belt into position, ensuring that any arrows on the belt are pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). 33 Do not twist the timing belt sharply while refitting it. Fit the belt over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Ensure that the belt “front run” is taut - ie, any slack should be on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Fit the belt over the water pump sprocket and tensioner pulley. Ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 34 Slacken the tensioner cam spindle locknut, and check that the tensioner pulley is forced against the timing belt by spring pressure. 35 Refit the crankshaft pulley, tightening its retaining bolt by hand only. 36 Rotate the crankshaft through at least two complete rotations in a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). Realign the camshaft and crankshaft engine assembly/valve timing holes (see Section 3). Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise. Both camshaft and crankshaft timing holes should be aligned so that the locking pins can be easily inserted. This indicates that the valve timing is correct. 37 If the timing holes are not correctly positioned, release the tensioner assembly as described in paragraph 8, and disengage the belt from the camshaft sprocket. Rotate the camshaft and crankshaft slightly as required until both locking pins are in position. Relocate the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket. Ensure that the belt “front run” is taut - ie, that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Slacken the tensioner locknut, then remove the locking pins and repeat the procedure in paragraph 36. 38 Once both timing holes are correctly aligned, tighten the two tensioner assembly retaining nuts to the specified torque. Tighten

the tensioner cam spindle locknut to its specified torque. 39 With the belt correctly installed and tensioned, where removed refit the engine bracket to the side of the cylinder head/block, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. Refit the right-hand mounting bracket, and tighten its retaining nuts to the specified torque. The jack can then be removed from underneath the engine. 40 Remove the crankshaft pulley, then refit the timing belt covers (refer to Section 6). 41 Install the crankshaft pulley (Section 5), and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models with a manuallyadjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc (8-valve) models

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special

electronic tool (SEEM C. TRONIC belt tension measuring tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension. If this equipment is not available, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If this method is used, however, the belt tension must be checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.

42 Install the timing belt as described above in paragraphs 30 to 33. 43 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Using the square-section key, pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt. 44 If the special belt tension measuring equipment is available, it should be fitted to the “front run” of the timing belt. The tensioner roller should be adjusted so that the initial belt tension is 16 ± 2 units on 1998 cc 8-valve models, and 30 ± 2 units on all other models. 45 Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque. Refit the crankshaft pulley again, tightening its bolt by hand only. 46 Carry out the operations described in paragraph 36 (and where necessary, paragraph 37, ignoring the information about the tensioner) to ensure both timing holes are correctly aligned and the valve timing is correct. 47 If the tension is being set without using the special measuring tool, proceed as follows. Check that, under moderate pressure from the thumb and forefinger, the belt can just be twisted through 90° at the mid-point of the “front run” of the belt. Note that this method is only an initial setting, and the belt tension must checked at the earliest available opportunity using the special measuring tool. Failure to do so could lead to the belt breaking (through over-tightening) or slipping (through slackness), resulting in serious engine damage. If necessary, readjust the tensioner pulley position as required. Tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque on completion.

48 If the special measuring tool is being used, the final belt tension on the “front run” of the belt on all models should be 44 ± 2 units. Readjust the tensioner pulley position as required, then retighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Rotate the crankshaft through a further two rotations clockwise, and recheck the tension. Repeat this procedure as necessary until the correct tension reading is obtained after rotating the crankshaft. 49 With the belt tension correctly set, on 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc models, where removed refit the engine bracket to the side of the cylinder head/block, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. Refit the right-hand engine mounting bracket, and tighten its retaining nuts to the specified torque. The jack can then be removed from underneath the engine. 50 On all models, remove the crankshaft pulley, then refit the timing belt cover(s) as described in Section 6. 51 Refit the crankshaft pulley (Section 5), and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

1905 cc 16-valve models

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special

electronic tool (SEEM belt tension measuring tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension. If this equipment is not available, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If this method is used, however, the tension must be checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.

52 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that each tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley(s) as described in Section 8. 53 Ensure that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket locking pins are still in position. Slacken both tensioner mounting bolts so that they are free to pivot easily. 54 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position, ensuring that any arrows on the belt are pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). Fit the timing belt in the sequence given in the accompanying illustration (see illustration).

2B•10 XU engine in-car repair procedures

7.54 Fit the timing belt in the sequence given - 1905 cc 16-valve engines

Page 65

55 Note that there may be timing marks on

the belt, in the form of yellow lines, to ensure it is correctly positioned on both camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. The two single-line timing marks should be aligned with the timing dot (directly opposite the sprocket timing hole) on each camshaft sprocket. The double-line timing mark should be aligned with the crankshaft sprocket, where it will be directly opposite the sprocket Woodruff key slot. Peugeot state that the use of these timing marks is optional, but they are useful in helping to ensure that the valve timing is correctly set at the first attempt. 56 With the three locking pins in position, move both the front and rear tensioner pulleys towards the timing belt until both pulleys are contacting the belt. Securely tighten the retaining bolts. 57 If the tension is being set without the use of the special measuring tool, proceed as follows. Using the square-section key fitted to the hole in the tensioner backplate, move the front tensioner pulley against the belt until all free play is removed from the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the pulley retaining bolts to the specified torque. Similarly move the rear tensioner pulley against the belt and tighten the bolt. 58 If the special belt tension measuring equipment is available, it should be fitted to the “front run” of the timing belt, between the front tensioner and the camshaft sprocket. Move the front tensioner pulley anti-clockwise so that the belt is tensioned to a setting of 19 units, then tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 59 Slacken the rear tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Using the square-section key, pivot the pulley clockwise until the belt tension on the “front run” is 21 units. Hold the tensioner in position, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 60 Remove the locking pins from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and, where fitted, the tensioning measuring device from the belt. 61 Rotate the crankshaft through at least two complete rotations in a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). Realign the camshaft and crankshaft engine assembly/valve timing holes (see Section 3). Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise. Both camshaft timing holes and the crankshaft timing hole should be correctly positioned so that the locking pins can be easily inserted, indicating that the valve timing is correct. 62 If the timing holes are not correctly positioned, repeat the tensioning procedure. 63 Once the valve timing is correctly set, remove the locking pins and recheck the belt tension. 64 If the tension is being set without the special measuring tool, proceed as follows. Check that, under moderate pressure from the thumb and forefinger, the belt can just be twisted through 45°, at the mid-point between

the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley on the “front run” of the belt. Note that this method is only an initial setting, and the belt tension must be checked at the earliest available opportunity using the special measuring tool. Failure to do so could lead to the belt breaking (through over-tightening) or slipping (through slackness), resulting in serious engine damage. 65 If the special measuring tool is being used, the final belt tension on the “front run” of the belt, between the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley, should be 45 ± 5 units. Repeat the procedure as necessary, until the correct tension reading is obtained after the crankshaft has been rotated. 66 Once the belt tension is correctly set, refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 6. Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5, and reconnect the battery negative terminal

1998 cc 16-valve models

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special

67 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that each tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley(s) as described in Section 8. 68 Ensure that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket locking pins are still in position. Slacken the tensioner mounting bolts so that they are free to pivot easily. 69 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position, ensuring that any arrows on the belt are pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise when viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). 70 Note that there are also timing marks on the belt, in the form of yellow lines, to ensure it is correctly positioned on both camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. The two single-line timing marks should be aligned with the timing dot (directly opposite the sprocket timing hole) on each camshaft sprocket. The double-line timing mark should be aligned with the crankshaft sprocket, where it will be directly opposite the sprocket Woodruff key slot. Peugeot state that the use of these timing marks is optional, but they are useful in helping to ensure that the valve timing is correctly set at the first attempt. 71 With the three locking pins in position, move both the front and rear tensioner pulleys towards the timing belt until both pulleys are contacting the belt. Securely tighten the rear tensioner retaining bolt.

72 If the tension is being set without the use of the special measuring tool, proceed as follows. Using the square-section key fitted to the hole in the tensioner backplate, move the front tensioner pulley against the belt until all free play is removed from the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the pulley retaining bolts to the specified torque. 73 If the special belt tension measuring equipment is available, it should be fitted to the “front run” of the timing belt, between the front tensioner and the camshaft sprocket. Move the tensioner pulley backplate so that the belt is initially over-tensioned to a setting of 45 units, then back the tensioner off until the belt tension is 22 ± 2 units. Hold the backplate in this position, and tighten both the tensioner pulley retaining bolts to the specified torque. 74 Slacken the rear tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Using the square-section key, pivot the pulley anti-clockwise until all free play is removed from the belt. If the belt tension measuring equipment is being used, set the tensioner pulley so that the belt tension on the “front run” is 32 ± 2 units. Hold the tensioner in position, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 75 Remove the locking pins from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and, where fitted, the tensioning measuring device from the belt. 76 Rotate the crankshaft through at least two complete rotations in a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-hand end of the engine). Realign the camshaft and crankshaft engine assembly/valve timing holes (see Section 3). Do not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise. Both camshaft timing holes and the crankshaft timing hole should be correctly positioned so that the locking pins can be easily inserted, indicating that the valve timing is correct. 77 If the timing holes are not correctly positioned, slacken the tensioner assembly retaining bolts, and disengage the belt from the camshaft sprockets. Rotate the camshafts and crankshaft slightly as required until all locking pins are in position, then relocate the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket. Ensure that the belt “top run” and “front run” are taut

- ie, ensure that any slack is on the rear tensioner pulley and water pump side of the belt. Repeat the tensioning procedure until the valve timing is correct. 78 Once the valve timing is correctly set, remove the locking pins and recheck the belt tension. 79 If the tension is being set without the special measuring tool, proceed as follows. Check that, under moderate pressure from the thumb and forefinger, the belt can just be twisted through 45°, at the mid-point between the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley on the “front run” of the belt. Note that this method is only an initial setting, and the belt tension must be checked at the earliest available opportunity using the special

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11

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measuring tool. Failure to do so could lead to the belt breaking (through over-tightening) or slipping (through slackness), resulting in serious engine damage. If necessary, readjust the rear tensioner pulley position as required, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque. 80 If the special measuring tool is being used, the final belt tension on the “front run” of the belt, between the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley, should be 53 ± 2 units. Readjust the rear tensioner pulley position as required, then retighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Rotate the crankshaft through a further two rotations clockwise, and recheck the tension. Repeat this procedure as necessary, until the correct tension reading is obtained after the crankshaft has been rotated. 81 Once the belt tension is correctly set, refit the timing belt covers (see Section 6). Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5, and reconnect the battery negative terminal

8 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: This Section describes the removal and refitting of the components concerned as individual operations - if more than one is to be removed at the same time, start by removing the timing belt as described in Section 7; remove the actual component as described below, ignoring the preliminary dismantling steps.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Align the engine assembly/valve timing

holes as described in Section 3, locking the camshaft sprocket(s) and the crankshaft pulley in position, and proceed as described under the relevant sub-heading. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position.

Camshaft sprocket - early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

3 Remove the centre timing belt cover as

described in Section 6. 4 Slacken (but do not remove) the two nuts securing the tensioner assembly to the end of the cylinder block. Loosen the tensioner cam spindle locknut, located on the rear of cylinder block flange. 5 Using a suitable open-ended spanner on the square-section end of the tensioner cam spindle, rotate the cam until the tensioner spring is fully compressed and the belt tension is relieved. Hold the cam in this position, and securely tighten the locknut. 6 Remove the locking pin from the camshaft sprocket. Disengage the timing belt from the sprocket and position it clear, taking care not to bend or twist the belt sharply.

7 Slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is slackened, a sprocket holding tool will be required. In the absence of the special Peugeot tool, an acceptable substitute can be fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts, as follows. One nut and bolt forms the pivot of a forked tool, with the remaining two nuts and bolts at the tips of the “forks” to engage with the sprocket spokes, as shown in illustration

8.39. Do not attempt to use the sprocket locking pin to prevent the sprocket from rotating whilst the bolt is slackened. 8 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as described in Section 9.

Camshaft sprocket - later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc (8-valve) models

9 On all except 1998 cc 8-valve models,

remove the centre timing belt cover as described in Section 6. 10 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable square-section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the retaining bolt. 11 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described above in paragraphs 6 to 8.

Camshaft sprocket(s) 1905 cc 16-valve models

12 With the timing covers removed, loosen

the timing belt front and rear tensioner pulley retaining bolts. Pivot the front pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable squaresection key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then securely retighten the retaining bolt. Similarly pivot the rear pulley in an anticlockwise direction and retighten the bolt. 13 Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt as described in paragraphs 6 and 7. 14 Slide the sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the camshaft, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. Examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it (see Section 9).

Camshaft sprocket(s) - 1998 cc 16valve models

15 Loosen the timing belt rear tensioner

pulley retaining bolt. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise direction, using a suitable squaresection key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then securely retighten the retaining bolt. 16 Loosen the two front tensioner assembly retaining bolts. Move the tensioner pulley away from the belt, using the same squaresection key on the pulley backplate.

17 Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt as described in paragraphs 6 and 7. 18 Slide the sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the camshaft, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. Examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it (see Section 9).

Crankshaft sprocket 1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models

19 Remove the centre and/or lower timing

belt cover(s) (as applicable) as described in Section 6. 20 On early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner, release the timing belt tensioner as described above in paragraphs 4 and 5. 21 On later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models, release the timing belt tensioner as described in paragraph 10. 22 Disengage the timing belt from the crankshaft sprocket, and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft, and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. Where necessary, also slide the flanged spacer (where fitted) off the end of the crankshaft. 23 Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as described in Section 16.

Crankshaft sprocket 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models

24 Remove the lower timing belt cover as

described in Section 6. 25 Release the timing belt tensioners as described above in paragraphs 12 or 15 and 16 (as applicable). Disengage the timing belt from the crankshaft sprocket, and remove the locking pin. 26 To prevent the crankshaft turning whilst the sprocket retaining bolt is being slackened, select 4th gear, and have an assistant apply the brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, lock the flywheel ring gear using the arrangement shown in illustration 5.3 (Section 5). Do not be tempted to use the locking pin to prevent the crankshaft from rotating. 27 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer, then slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the crankshaft, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. 28 Where necessary, slide the flanged spacer (where fitted) off the crankshaft. 29 Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as described in Section 16.

Tensioner assembly - early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

30 Remove the centre timing belt cover as

described in Section 6.

2B•12 XU engine in-car repair procedures

Page 67

31 Slacken and remove the two nuts and washers securing the tensioner assembly to the end of the cylinder block. Carefully ease the spring cover off its studs, taking care not to allow the spring to fly out as the cover is withdrawn. Remove the spring and cover from the engine (see illustration). 32 Slacken and remove the tensioner cam spindle locknut and washer, located on the rear of cylinder block flange, and withdraw the cam spindle. 33 The tensioner pulley and backplate assembly can then be manoeuvred out from behind the timing belt.

Tensioner pulley - later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models

34 On all except 1998 cc 8-valve models,

remove the centre timing belt cover as described in Section 6. 35 Slacken and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt, and slide the pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the mounting stud for signs of damage and if necessary, renew it.

Tensioner pulleys 1905 cc 16-valve models

36 The front and rear tensioner pulleys are

removed as described above.

Tensioner pulleys 1998 cc 16-valve models

37 The rear tensioner pulley is removed as

described above. 38 To remove the front tensioner pulley, slacken and remove the two bolts securing the pulley backplate to the cylinder block, and remove the assembly from the engine.

Inspection

39 Clean the camshaft/crankshaft sprockets thoroughly, and renew any that show signs of wear, damage or cracks. 40 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not use any strong solvent which may enter the pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates freely on the backplate, with no sign of stiffness or free play. Renew the assembly if there is any doubt about its condition, or if

there are any obvious signs of wear or damage. 41 On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, the tensioner spring should also be carefully checked, as its condition is critical for the correct tensioning of the timing belt. The only way to check the spring tension is to compare it with a new one; if there is any doubt as to its condition, the spring should be renewed.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket - early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

42 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to

the rear of the sprocket. Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, ensuring that the locating peg is correctly engaged with the cutout in the camshaft end. 43 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer, and tighten it to the specified torque. Retain the sprocket with the tool used on removal (see illustration). 44 Realign the hole in the camshaft sprocket with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head, and refit the locking pin. Check that the crankshaft pulley locking pin is still in position. 45 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 46 Release the tensioner cam spindle locknut, and check that the tensioner pulley is forced against the timing belt under spring pressure.

47 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7). 48 With the belt correctly tensioned, and the

tensioner retaining nuts and locknut tightened to the specified torque setting, refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 6. Reconnect the battery on completion.

Camshaft sprocket - later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc (8-valve) models

49 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described

above.

50 With the timing belt correctly engaged on the sprockets, tension the belt as described in Section 7. 51 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit the timing belt covers (see Section 6).

Camshaft sprocket(s) - 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models

52 Refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the

camshaft end. Slide on the sprocket, aligning its slot with the Woodruff key. 53 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, whilst retaining the sprocket with the tool used on removal. 54 Realign the hole in the camshaft sprocket with the corresponding hole in the cylinder head, and refit the locking pin. 55 Relocate the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket(s), and tension the timing belt as described in Section 7. 56 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit the timing belt cover (Section 6).

Crankshaft sprocket 1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models

57 Slide on the flanged spacer (where fitted),

and refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the crankshaft end. 58 Slide on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning its slot with the Woodruff key. 59 Ensure that the camshaft sprocket locking pin is still in position. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and insert the locking pin through the pulley timing hole, to ensure that the crankshaft is still correctly positioned. 60 Remove the crankshaft pulley. Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket. Ensure that the belt “front run” is taut - ie, that any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Fit the belt over the water pump sprocket and tensioner pulley. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets. 61 On early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a semi-automatic tensioner, release the tensioner cam spindle locknut, checking that the tensioner pulley is forced against the timing belt under spring pressure. Tension the timing belt as described in Section 7. 62 On later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models, tension the timing belt as described in Section 7. 63 On all models, remove the crankshaft pulley, then refit the timing belt cover(s) as described in Section 6. 64 Refit the crankshaft pulley (Section 5), and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Crankshaft sprocket - 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models

65 Slide on the flanged spacer (where fitted),

and refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the crankshaft end.

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•13

8.43 Using a home-made tool for retaining the camshaft sprocket whilst the sprocket

bolt is tightened (TU engine shown)

8.31 Timing belt tensioner assembly components - early 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models

Page 68

66 Slide on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning its slot with the Woodruff key. 67 Thoroughly clean the threads of the sprocket retaining bolt, then apply a coat of locking compound to the threads of the bolt. 68 Refit the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation using the method employed on removal. 69 Refit the locking pin to the crankshaft sprocket, and check that both the camshaft sprocket locking pins are still in position. 70 Relocate the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket, and tension the timing belt as described in Section 7. 71 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

Tensioner assembly - early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

72 Manoeuvre the tensioner pulley and

backplate assembly into position behind the timing belt, and locate it on the mounting studs. 73 Insert the tensioner cam spindle through the backplate from the front of the block, and refit its washer and locknut, tightening it by hand only at this stage. 74 Fit the spring to the inside of the spring cover. Compress the spring, and slide the spring cover onto the two mounting studs, ensuring that the spring end is correctly located behind the backplate tang. 75 Refit the tensioner mounting nuts and washers, tightening them by hand only. Check that the tensioner is forced against the timing belt by spring pressure, and is free to move smoothly and easily. 76 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, that any slack is on the pulley side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally located on all its sprockets, then release the tensioner assembly and allow it to tension the belt. 77 Tension the timing belt, and check the valve timing as described in Section 7. 78 With the belt correctly tensioned, and the tensioner retaining nuts and locknut tightened to the specified torque setting, refit the timing belt covers as described in Section 6. Reconnect the battery on completion.

Tensioner pulley - later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a manually-adjusted belt tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models

79 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting

stud, and fit the retaining bolt. 80 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut - ie, that any slack is on the pulley side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the timing belt, and securely tighten the pulley retaining nut.

81 Tension the belt (see Section 7).

82 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit

the timing belt covers as described in Section 6.

Tensioner pulleys - 1905 cc 16-valve models

83 Refit the tensioner pulleys to their studs,

and fit the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts finger-tight only, so that both tensioners are free to pivot.

84 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7). 85 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit

the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

Tensioner pulleys - 1998 cc 16-valve models

86 Refit the rear tensioner pulley to its

mounting stud, and fit the retaining bolt. Align the front pulley backplate with its holes, and refit both its retaining bolts. Tighten all retaining bolts finger-tight only, so that both tensioners are free to pivot.

87 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7). 88 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit

the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

9 Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed with the timing belt still in place, check first that the belt is free from oil contamination. (Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs of oil contamination are found; see Section 7.) Cover the belt, to protect it from contamination by oil while work is in progress. If the timing belt is removed, ensure that all traces of oil are removed from the area before the belt is refitted.

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) as described in Section 8. 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket(s) as described in Section 8.

10 Camshaft and followers -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the battery and its mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A.

2 Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket as described in Section 4.

1905 cc 16-valve models

3 Unbolt the plastic cover from over the

power steering pump drive pulley. 4 Disconnect the drivebelt from the power steering drive pulley with reference to Chapter 1. 5 Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley from the end of the exhaust camshaft. 6 Remove both camshaft sprockets as described in Section 8. 7 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm with reference to Chapter 5A. 8 Unbolt and remove the rotor arm support and the sealing disc. 9 Unbolt the inner timing belt cover from the side of the cylinder head. 10 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each of the pipe unions. 11 Turn each camshaft so that the sprocket key grooves are approximately at the 3 o’clock position. 12 Evenly and progressively slacken the camshaft bearing cap retaining screws by one turn at a time. This will relieve the valve spring pressure on the bearing caps gradually and evenly. Once the pressure has been relieved, the bolts can be fully unscrewed and removed. 13 Lift off the bearing caps, noting the correct fitted location of the locating dowels. If the dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the bearing caps for safekeeping. 14 Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder head, and slide the oil seals off the camshaft ends. Identify each camshaft for position - on early models the inlet camshaft is identified by the distributor drive keyway. 15 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each cam follower in turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its respective container. The container should then be filled with clean engine oil. Do not interchange the cam followers, or the rate of wear will be much-increased. Do not allow them to lose oil, or the hydraulic tappet mechanism will take a long time to refill with oil on restarting the engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

1998 cc 16-valve models

16 Remove both camshaft sprockets as

described in Section 8. Where necessary also remove the vacuum pump from the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 17 Undo the six bolts securing the inner timing belt cover to the side of the cylinder head, and remove the cover from the engine. 18 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each of the pipe unions. 19 The camshaft bearing caps should be

2B•14 XU engine in-car repair procedures

Page 69

numbered 1 to 5, number 1 being at the transmission end of the engine. If not, make identification marks on the caps, using white paint or a suitable marker pen. 20 Working in the reverse of the sequence shown in illustration 10.54, evenly and progressively slacken the camshaft bearing cap retaining screws by one turn at a time. This will relieve the valve spring pressure on the bearing caps gradually and evenly. Once the pressure has been relieved, the bolts can be fully unscrewed and removed. 21 Lift off the bearing caps, noting the correct fitted location of the locating dowels. If the dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the bearing caps for safekeeping. 22 Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder head, and slide the oil seals off the camshaft ends. The inlet camshaft can be identified by the braking system vacuum pump drive slot in its left-hand end; therefore, there is no need to mark the camshafts for identification. 23 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each cam follower in turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its respective container. The container should then be filled with clean engine oil. Do not interchange the cam followers, or the rate of wear will be much-increased. Do not allow them to lose oil, or the hydraulic tappet mechanism will take a long time to refill with oil on restarting the engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

All other models

24 Remove the camshaft sprocket as

described in Section 8. 25 On models with a distributor, remove the distributor as described in Chapter 5. Make sure the recessed socket-headed screw is removed from the distributor housing. 26 On models with a carburettor, remove the fuel pump as described in Chapter 4. 27 On models with a static (distributorless) ignition system, remove the ignition HT coil as described in Chapter 5. 28 With the distributor or coil removed (as applicable), slacken the upper bolt securing the thermostat housing to the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Remove the bolt, along with

its sealing washer. This is necessary since the bolt screws into the left-hand (No 1) camshaft bearing cap. 29 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each of the pipe unions on later models. 30 The camshaft bearing caps should be numbered 1 to 5, number 1 being at the transmission end of the engine. If not, make identification marks on the caps, using white paint or a suitable marker pen. Also mark each cap in some way to indicate its correct fitted orientation. This will avoid the possibility of installing the caps the wrong way around on refitting. 31 Evenly and progressively slacken the camshaft bearing cap retaining nuts by one turn at a time. This will relieve the valve spring pressure on the bearing caps gradually and evenly. Once the pressure has been relieved, the nuts can be fully unscrewed and removed

(see illustration). 32 Note the correct fitted orientation of the

bearing caps, then remove them from cylinder head (see illustration). 33 Lift the camshaft away from the cylinder head, and slide the oil seal off the camshaft end (see illustration). 34 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers, and number them 1 to 8; alternatively, divide a larger container into eight compartments. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each follower in turn, and place it in its respective container. Do not interchange the cam followers, or the rate of wear will be much-increased. If necessary, also remove the shim from the top of the valve stem, and store it with its respective follower. Note that the shim may stick to the inside of the follower as it is withdrawn. If this happens, take care not to allow it to drop out as the follower is removed.

Inspection

35 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these conditions are apparent. Examine the condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the camshaft journals and in the cylinder head/bearing caps. If the head bearing

surfaces are worn excessively, the cylinder head will need to be renewed. If suitable measuring equipment is available, camshaft bearing journal wear can be checked by direct measurement (where the necessary specifications have been quoted by Peugeot), noting that No 1 journal is at the transmission end of the head. 36 Examine the cam follower bearing surfaces which contact the camshaft lobes for wear ridges and scoring. Renew any follower on which these conditions are apparent. If a follower bearing surface is badly scored, also examine the corresponding lobe on the camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will be worn. Renew worn components as necessary. 37 On 16-valve models, if the engine’s valve clearances have sounded noisy, particularly if the noise persists after initial start-up from cold, there is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet mechanism. Only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell whether the noise level is typical, or if renewal of one or more of the tappets is warranted. If a faulty hydraulic tappet is diagnosed and the engine’s service history is unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of renewing the engine oil and filter before going to the expense of renewing any of the cam followers. Use only good-quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification (Chapter 1). It is not possible to overhaul the hydraulic tappet mechanism, so if any tappet’s operation is faulty, it must be renewed. 38 On earlier 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, inspect the camshaft thrust fork (fitted to the side of No 5 camshaft bearing cap) for signs of wear or scoring, and if necessary renew it (see illustrations). The fork is retained by a single bolt; on refitting, ensure that the bolt is securely tightened. On later models, the thrust fork is no longer fitted, and the camshaft endfloat is controlled by the camshaft bearing cap.

Refitting

1905 cc 16-valve models

39 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam

follower bores and the followers. Note that, if

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•15

10.33 . . . then lift the camshaft away from the cylinder head

10.32 . . . and remove the camshaft bearing caps . . .

10.31 Working as described in the text, unscrew the retaining nuts . . .

Page 70

new followers are being fitted, they must be charged with oil before installation by placing them in a bath of clean engine oil and “working” them. Carefully refit the followers to the cylinder head, ensuring that each follower is refitted to its original bore, where applicable. Some care will be required to enter the followers squarely into their bores. 40 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes, then refit the camshafts to the cylinder head. Temporarily refit the Woodruff keys and sprockets to the end of each camshaft. Set each camshaft so that the sprocket key grooves are approximately at the 3 o’clock position. Also ensure that the crankshaft is still locked in position (see Section 3). 41 Ensure that the bearing cap locating dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses. Check that the mating surfaces are completely clean, unmarked and free from oil then apply jointing compound to the contact surfaces of Nos 1 and 5 caps.. Refit the bearing caps, using the identification marks noted on removal to ensure that each is installed correctly and in its original location. 42 Working in the sequence shown, progressively tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts by one turn at a time, until the caps touch the cylinder head evenly. Go round again, working in the same sequence, and tighten all the bolts to the specified torque setting. Work only as described, to impose the pressure of the valve springs gradually and evenly on the bearing caps. 43 Examine the oil supply pipe union O-rings for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew as necessary. Check that the supply pipe oil spray holes are clear, unblocking them with a pin if necessary. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the O-rings. Ease the pipe assembly into position in the top of the bearing caps, taking great care not to displace the O-rings. 44 Refit the inner timing belt cover to the side of the cylinder head, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. 45 Fit two new camshaft oil seals using the information given in Section 7. 46 Where applicable, refit the distributor rotor arm support and sealing disc, rotor arm and distributor cap - refer to Chapter 5A. 47 Refit the camshaft sprockets as described in Section 8.

48 Refit the power steering pulley to the end of the exhaust camshaft and tighten the retaining bolt, then refit the drivebelt with reference to Chapter 1. 49 Refit the plastic cover over the power steering pump drive pulley. 50 Refit the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4, and the battery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A.

1998 cc 16-valve models

51 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam

follower bores and the followers. Note that, if new followers are being fitted, they must be charged with oil before installation by placing them in a bath of clean engine oil and “working” them. Carefully refit the followers to the cylinder head, ensuring that each follower is refitted to its original bore, where applicable. Some care will be required to enter the followers squarely into their bores. 52 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes, then refit the camshafts to the cylinder head. Temporarily refit the Woodruff keys and sprockets to the end of each camshaft. Set each camshaft so that its sprocket timing hole is aligned with the corresponding cutout in the cylinder head. Also ensure that the crankshaft is still locked in position (see Section 3). 53 Ensure that the bearing cap locating dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses. Check that the mating surfaces are completely clean, unmarked and free from oil. Refit the bearing caps, using the identification marks noted on removal to ensure that each is installed correctly and in its original location.

54 Working in the sequence shown, progressively tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts by one turn at a time, until the caps touch the cylinder head evenly. Go round again, working in the same sequence, and tighten all the bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration). Work only as described, to impose the pressure of the valve springs gradually and evenly on the bearing caps. 55 Examine the oil supply pipe union O-rings for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew as necessary. Check that the supply pipe oil spray holes are clear, unblocking them with a pin if necessary. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the O-rings. Ease the pipe assembly into position in the top of the bearing caps, taking great care not to displace the O-rings (see illustration). 56 Refit the inner timing belt cover to the side of the cylinder head, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. 57 Fit two new camshaft oil seals using the information given in Section 7, then refit the camshaft sprockets as described in Section 8. Where necessary refit the vacuum pump to the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 58 Refit the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4, and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

All other models

59 Where removed, refit each shim to the top

of its original valve stem. Do not interchange the shims, as this will upset the valve clearances (see Section 11). 60 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam follower bores and the followers. Carefully refit the followers to the cylinder head, ensuring that each follower is refitted to its original bore. Some care will be required to enter the followers squarely into their bores. 61 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes, then refit the camshaft to the cylinder head. Temporarily refit the sprocket to the end of the shaft, and position it so that the sprocket timing hole is aligned with the corresponding cutout in the cylinder head. Also ensure that the crankshaft is still locked in position (see Section 3). 62 Ensure that the bearing cap and head mating surfaces are completely clean,

10.55 Take care not to displace the

O-rings when refitting the oil supply pipe

to the camshaft bearing caps

2B•16 XU engine in-car repair procedures

10.38a On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc

models, slacken the retaining bolt . . .

10.54 Camshaft bearing cap bolt tightening sequence -

1998 cc 16-valve models

10.38b . . . and remove the camshaft thrust fork from the bearing cap

Page 71

unmarked, and free from oil. Refit the bearing caps, using the identification marks noted on removal to ensure that each is installed correctly and in its original location. 63 Evenly and progressively tighten the camshaft bearing cap nuts by one turn at a time until the caps touch the cylinder head. Then go round again and tighten all the nuts to the specified torque setting. Work only as described, to impose the pressure of the valve springs gradually and evenly on the bearing caps. 64 Refit the oil supply pipe to the top of the bearing caps. Note that there are no seals fitted to the pipe fittings on early models, however later versions are fitted with seals. Where applicable, examine the oil supply pipe union O-rings for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew as necessary. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the O-rings before refitting the pipe (see illustration). 65 Examine the sealing washer for signs of damage or deterioration, and renew it if necessary. Refit the upper retaining bolt to the thermostat housing, tightening it to the specified torque setting. 66 On models with a distributor, refit the distributor as described in Chapter 5. 67 On models with a static (distributorless) ignition system, refit the ignition HT coil as described in Chapter 5. 68 On models with a carburettor, refit the fuel pump with reference to Chapter 4. 69 Fit a new camshaft oil seal, using the information given in Section 9, then refit the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 8. 70 Refit the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4, then refit the battery and mounting tray with reference to Chapter 5A.

11 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

Checking

16-valve models

1 On 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models,

the valve clearances are automatically adjusted by the hydraulic tappet mechanism

fitted to each cam follower. Therefore it is not necessary, or indeed possible, to check or adjust the valve clearances manually. If the valve gear has become noisy, a faulty tappet mechanism should be suspected. Refer to Section 10 for further information.

All other models

2 On these models, the importance of having

the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Checking should not be regarded as a routine operation, however. It should only be necessary when the valve gear has become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be accurate. 3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 4 From underneath the front of the car, prise out the two retaining clips, and remove the plastic cover from the wing valance to gain access to the crankshaft sprocket bolt. Where necessary, unclip the coolant hoses from the bracket to improve access further. 5 The engine can now be turned over using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the crankshaft pulley bolt. 6 Remove the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4. 7 Draw the outline of the engine on a piece of paper, numbering the cylinders 1 to 4, with No 1 cylinder at the transmission end of the engine. Show the position of each valve, together with the specified valve clearance (see paragraph 11). Above each valve, draw two lines for noting (1) the actual clearance and (2) the amount of adjustment required

(see illustration). 8 Turn the crankshaft until the inlet valve of

No 1 cylinder (nearest the transmission end) is

fully closed, with the tip of the cam facing directly away from the cam follower. 9 Using feeler blades, measure the clearance between the base of the cam and the follower (see illustration). Record the clearance on line (1). 10 Repeat the measurement for the other seven valves, turning the crankshaft as necessary so that the cam lobe in question is always facing directly away from the relevant follower. 11 Calculate the difference between each measured clearance and the desired value, and record it on line (2). Since the clearance is different for inlet and exhaust valves, make sure that you are aware which valve you are dealing with. The valve sequence from either end of the engine is:

Ex - In - In - Ex - Ex - In - In - Ex

12 If all the clearances are within tolerance, refit the cylinder head cover with reference to Section 4. Clip the coolant hoses into position (if removed) and refit the plastic cover to the wing valance. Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 13 If any clearance measured is outside the specified tolerance, adjustment must be carried out as described in the following paragraphs.

Adjustment

16-valve models

14 See paragraph 1.

All other models

15 Remove the camshaft as described in

Section 10. 16 Withdraw the first follower from the cylinder head, and recover the shim from the top of the valve stem. Note that the shim may stick to the inside of the follower as it is withdrawn. If this happens, take care not to allow it to drop out as the follower is removed. Remove all traces of oil from the shim, and measure its thickness with a micrometer (see illustrations). The shims usually carry thickness markings, but wear may have reduced the original thickness. 17 Refer to the clearance recorded for the valve concerned. If the clearance was more than that specified, the shim thickness must be increased by the difference recorded (2). If

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•17

11.7 Example of valve shim thickness calculation

I Inlet E Exhaust 1 Measured clearance 2 Difference between 1 and 3 3 Specified clearance 4 Thickness of original shim fitted 5 Thickness of new shim required

11.9 Measuring a valve clearance using a feeler blade

10.64 Early supply pipe (A) without seals and later pipe (B) with seals

Page 72

the clearance was less than that specified, the thickness of the shim must be decreased by the difference recorded (2). 18 Draw three more lines beneath each valve on the calculation paper, as shown in illustration 11.7. On line (4), note the measured thickness of the shim, then add or deduct the difference from line (2) to give the final shim thickness required on line (5). 19 Shims are available in thicknesses between 2.225 mm and 3.550 mm, in steps of

0.025 mm. Clean new shims before measuring or fitting them. 20 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 16 to 18 on the remaining valves, keeping each follower identified for position. 21 When reassembling, oil the shim, and fit it on the valve stem with the size marking face downwards. Oil the follower, and lower it onto the shim. Do not raise the follower after fitting, as the shim may become dislodged. 22 When all the followers are in position, complete with their shims, refit the camshaft as described in Section 10. Recheck the valve clearances before refitting the cylinder head cover.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the battery and its mounting tray with reference to Chapter 5A. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 3 Align the engine assembly/valve timing holes as described in Section 3, locking both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley in position, and proceed as described under the relevant sub-heading. Do not attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins are in position.

8-valve engines

4 Remove the cylinder head cover as

described in Section 4, and remove the air cleaner mounting bracket from the rear of cylinder head. 5 Note that the following text assumes that the cylinder head will be removed with both

inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy assembly to handle. If it is wished first to remove the manifolds, proceed as described in Chapter 4. 6 Working as described in Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system front pipe from the manifold. Where necessary, disconnect or release the lambda sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight of the exhaust. 7 Disconnect the following according to model, as described in Chapter 4:

a) On fuel injection models, depressurise the

fuel system, and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses. Plug all openings, to prevent loss of fuel and the entry of dirt into the system.

b) On carburettor models remove the

carburettor and disconnect the fuel hoses

from the fuel pump. c) Disconnect the accelerator cable. d) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit

vacuum hose, coolant hose and all the

other relevant vacuum/breather hoses,

from the inlet manifold and on fuel

injection models the throttle

body/housing. e) Undo the retaining nut, and position the

oil filler neck clear of the inlet manifold. f) On fuel injection models, disconnect the

three electrical connector plugs from the

throttle body. g) On fuel injection models, disconnect the

wiring connectors from the throttle

potentiometer and the fuel injectors, and

free the wiring loom from the manifold. h) Where necessary, remove the idle speed

auxiliary air valve.

8 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of the cylinder head). 9 Depress the retaining clip(s), and disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the electrical switch(es) and/or sensor(s) which are screwed into the thermostat housing, or into the left-hand end of the cylinder head (as appropriate). 10 Refer to Section 8 and disconnect the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket; if preferred, completely remove the timing belt.

11 Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 12 Unscrew and remove the horizontal bolt from the engine rear mounting link beneath the rear of the engine. 13 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 14 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the engine/transmission right-hand mounting bracket to the engine bracket. Remove the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. Undo the three bolts securing the engine bracket to the end of the cylinder head/block, and remove the bracket. 15 On models with a distributor, disconnect the wiring connector from the ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the distributor as described in the relevant Sections of Chapter 5. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, and remove the distributor cap and lead assembly. If the cylinder numbers are not already marked on the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being incorrectly connected on refitting. 16 On models with a static (distributorless) ignition system, disconnect the wiring connector from the ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition HT coil as described in Chapter 5. Note that the HT leads should be disconnected from the spark plugs instead of the coil, and the coil and leads removed as an assembly. If the cylinder numbers are not already marked on the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being incorrectly connected on refitting. 17 Working in the reverse of the tightening sequence, progressively slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand. Remove the bolts along with their washers, noting the correct location of the spacer fitted to the front left-hand bolt. 18 With all the cylinder head bolts removed, the joint between the cylinder head and gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must now be broken without disturbing the wet liners. Care must be taken on 1508 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engines to prevent displacement of the wet liners; although these liners are better-located and sealed than some wet-liner engines, there is still a risk of coolant and foreign matter leaking into the sump if the cylinder head is lifted carelessly. If care is not taken and the liners are moved, there is also a possibility of the bottom seals being disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the head. This problem does not apply to 1998 cc engines as the liners are conventional and form part of the cylinder block. 19 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt

2B•18 XU engine in-car repair procedures

11.16a Lift out the follower and remove the shim (arrowed)

11.16b Using a micrometer to measure shim thickness

Page 73

holes, and gently “rock” the cylinder head free towards the front of the car (see Part A). On wet liner engines, do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as well as by the tops of the liners. 20 When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder head away. Seek assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly, especially if it is complete with the manifolds. Remove the gasket from the top of the block, noting the two locating dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the head for safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket; it will be needed for identification purposes. 21 On wet liner engines, do not attempt to turn the crankshaft with the cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet liners may be displaced. Operations that require the crankshaft to be turned (eg cleaning the piston crowns), should only be carried out once the cylinder liners are firmly clamped in position. In the absence of the special Peugeot liner clamps, the liners can be clamped in position as follows. Use large flat washers positioned underneath suitablelength bolts, or temporarily refit the original head bolts, with suitable spacers fitted to their shanks (see illustration). 22 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul, remove the camshaft as described in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this Chapter.

1905 cc 16-valve engines

23 Remove the cylinder head cover as

described in Section 4. Also remove the air cleaner inlet ducting. 24 Unbolt the plastic cover from over the power steering pump drive pulley. 25 Disconnect the drivebelt from the power steering drive pulley with reference to Chapter 1. 26 Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley from the end of the exhaust camshaft. 27 Identify all wiring connections on the cylinder head then disconnect them. Also disconnect the coolant hoses from the head. 28 Remove the ignition coil as described in Chapter 5. 29 Remove the inlet manifold as described in Chapter 4. To prevent damage to the radiator, position a piece of cardboard over it. On

models with air conditioning, disconnect the associated wiring from the inlet manifold. 30 Working as described in Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system front pipe from the manifold. 31 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 32 Remove the right-hand engine mounting bracket with reference to Section 18. 33 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 7. 34 Working in the reverse of the tightening sequence, progressively slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand. Remove the bolts along with their washers, noting the correct location of the spacer fitted to the front left-hand bolt. 35 Release the end of the timing belt cover from the coolant pump using a screwdriver. 36 With all the cylinder head bolts removed, the joint between the cylinder head and gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must now be broken without disturbing the wet liners. Care must be taken to prevent displacement of the wet liners. Although these liners are better-located and sealed than some wet-liner engines, there is still a risk of coolant and foreign matter leaking into the sump if the cylinder head is lifted carelessly. If care is not taken and the liners are moved, there is also a possibility of the bottom seals being disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the head. 37 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt holes, and gently “rock” the cylinder head free towards the front of the car (see Part A). Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as well as by the tops of the liners. Take care not to damage the oil supply tubes when inserting the metal bars - if necessary remove the tubes first. 38 When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder head away. Seek assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly. Remove the gasket from the top of the block, noting the two locating dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the head for safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket; it will be needed for identification purposes. 39 Do not attempt to turn the crankshaft with the cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet liners may be displaced. Operations that require the crankshaft to be turned (eg cleaning the piston crowns), should only be carried out once the cylinder liners are firmly clamped in position. In the absence of the special Peugeot liner clamps, the liners can be clamped in position as follows. Use large flat washers positioned underneath suitablelength bolts, or temporarily refit the original head bolts, with suitable spacers fitted to their shanks. 40 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for

overhaul, remove the camshafts as described in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this Chapter.

1998 cc 16-valve engines

41 The procedure is similar to that for the

1905 cc 16-valve engine described above, except for the following.

a) Where necessary remove both camshafts

at the beginning of the procedure as described in Section 10.

b) When removing the inlet manifold,

disconnect the ACAV assembly with reference to Chapter 4.

c) Unbolt the oil dipstick tube from the

cylinder head.

d) The 1998 cc 16-valve engine has dry

liners, and therefore all references to, and precautions for, wet liners can be ignored.

Preparation for refitting

42 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. On ‘wet’ liner engines, refer to paragraph 36 before turning the engine. Take particular care on these models, as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. On all models, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 43 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part C of this Chapter if necessary. 44 On ‘wet’ liner engines, check the cylinder liner protrusion as described in Part C of this Chapter.

Cylinder head gasket and head bolt information - 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc models

45 On these models (aluminium cylinder

block, wet-liner type engine) when purchasing a new cylinder head gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the correct thickness is obtained. There are two different thicknesses available, the standard (1.2 mm) gasket which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly thicker (1.4 mm) gasket, for use once the head gasket face has been machined. The two gaskets can be

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•19

12.21 Cylinder liners clamped in position

using suitable bolts and large flat washers

Page 74

identified as follows, by the holes in the tab on the left-hand end of the gasket. 46 With the gasket fitted the correct way up on the cylinder block, there will be a either a single hole, or series of holes, punched in the tab on the left-hand end of the gasket. The standard (1.2 mm) gasket has only one hole punched in it; the slightly thicker (1.4 mm) gasket has either two or three holes punched in it, depending on its manufacturer. Identify the gasket type, and ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket along to your Peugeot dealer, and have the dealer confirm the gasket type. 47 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts in a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary. Measure the length of each bolt (without the washer fitted), from the underside of its head to the end of the bolt. If all bolts are less than 176.5 mm, they may be re-used. However, if any one bolt is longer than the specified length, all of the bolts should be renewed as a complete set. Considering the stress which the cylinder head bolts are under, it is hightly recommended that they are renewed, regardless of their apparent condition.

Cylinder head gasket and head bolt information - 1998 cc 8-valve and 16-valve models

48 On 1998 cc models (cast-iron cylinder

block without separate liners) there is only one thickness of head gasket available. The holes described above are still punched into the left-hand end of the gasket, but are of little importance, as they only identify the gasket manufacturer. 49 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts in a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary. Measure the length of each bolt (without the washer fitted), from the underside of its head to the end of the bolt. If all bolts are less than 122.0 mm, they may be re-used. However, if any one bolt is longer than the specified length, all of the bolts should be renewed as a complete set. Considering the stress which the cylinder head bolts are under, it is hightly recommended that they are renewed, regardless of their apparent condition.

Refitting

50 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase. Check that the two locating dowels are in position at each end of the cylinder block/crankcase surface. Where applicable, remove the cylinder liner clamps. 51 Position a new gasket on the cylinder

block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its identification holes and tongue are at the lefthand end of the gasket.

8-valve engines

52 Where removed refit the camshaft

(Section 10), then check that the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket are still locked in position with their respective pins. With the aid of an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head assembly to the block, aligning it with the locating dowels. 53 Apply a smear of grease to the threads, and to the underside of the heads, of the cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend Molykote G.RAPID PLUS grease (available from your Peugeot dealer); in the absence of the specified grease, any good-quality highmelting-point grease may be used. 54 Carefully enter each bolt and washer into its relevant hole (do not drop it in) and screw it in finger-tight, not forgetting to fit the spacer to the front left-hand bolt. 55 Working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see

illustration). 56 On 1508 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc

engines, working bolt by bolt and in the specified sequence, fully slacken the bolt then tighten it to its stage 2 torque setting followed by its stage 3 angle. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during the stage 3 tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the bolt has rotated sufficiently. 57 On 1998 cc engines, working in the correct sequence tighten all of the bolts to the stage 2 torque. With all the bolts at the stage 2 torque, angle-tighten the bolts to the stage 3 angle in the correct sequence using the gauge described in the previous paragraph. 58 Once the cylinder head bolts are correctly tightened, fill the four oil reservoir holes in the cylinder head (below the camshaft) with fresh engine oil. 59 Reconnect the wiring connector to the ignition HT coil. Otherwise, if the head was

stripped for overhaul, refit the HT coil or distributor (as applicable), as described in Chapter 5. 60 Refit and tension the timing belt with reference to Section 8. 61 Refit the right-hand engine mounting and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. The jack can then be removed from under the engine. 62 The remaining procedure is a reversal of removal noting the following points.

a) Ensure that all wiring is correctly routed,

and that all connectors are securely reconnected to the correct components.

b) Ensure that the coolant hoses are

correctly reconnected, and that their retaining clips are securely tightened.

c) Ensure that all vacuum/breather hoses are

correctly reconnected.

d) Refit the cylinder head cover as described

in Section 4.

e) Reconnect the exhaust system to the

manifold, refit the air cleaner housing and ducts, and adjust the accelerator cable, as described in Chapter 4. If the manifolds were removed, refit these as described in Chapter 4.

f) On completion, refill the cooling system

as described in Chapter 1, and reconnect the battery.

1905 cc 16-valve engines

63 Where removed refit the camshafts

(Section 10), then check that the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprockets are still locked in position with their respective pins. With the aid of an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head assembly to the block, aligning it with the locating dowels. 64 Apply a smear of grease to the threads, and to the underside of the heads, of the cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the use of Molykote G.RAPID PLUS grease (available from your Peugeot dealer); in the absence of the specified grease, any goodquality high-melting-point grease may be used. 65 Carefully enter each bolt and washer into its relevant hole (do not drop it in) and screw it in finger-tight, not forgetting to fit the spacer to the front left-hand bolt. 66 Working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head bolts to their stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket. 67 Working bolt by bolt and in the specified sequence, fully slacken the bolt then tighten it to its stage 2 torque setting followed by its stage 3 angle. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during the stage 3 tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the bolt has rotated sufficiently. 68 Refit and tension the timing belt with reference to Section 8.

2B•20 XU engine in-car repair procedures

12.55 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

Page 75

69 Refit the right-hand engine mounting and

tighten the bolts to the specified torque. The jack can then be removed from under the engine. 70 The remaining procedure is a reversal of removal noting the following points.

a) Ensure that all wiring is correctly routed,

and that all connectors are securely reconnected to the correct components.

b) Ensure that the coolant hoses are

correctly reconnected, and that their retaining clips are securely tightened.

c) Ensure that all vacuum/breather hoses are

correctly reconnected.

d) Refit the cylinder head cover as described

in Section 4.

e) Reconnect the exhaust system to the

manifold, refit the air cleaner housing and ducts, and refit the manifolds as described in Chapter 4.

f) Reconnect the power steering drive pulley

and drivebelt with reference to Chapter 1.

g) On completion, refill the cooling system

as described in Chapter 1, and reconnect the battery.

1998 cc 16-valve models

71 The procedure is similar to that for the

1905 cc 16-valve engine described above, but refer also to paragraph 40.

13 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the

engine oil drain plug, tightening it securely. If the engine is nearing its service interval when the oil and filter are due for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is also removed, and a new one fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then be refilled with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further information. 3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 On models with air conditioning, where the compressor is mounted onto the side of the sump, remove the drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. Unbolt the compressor, and position it clear of the sump. Support the weight of the compressor by tying it to the vehicle, to prevent any excess strain being placed on the compressor lines. Do not disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor (refer to the warnings given in Chapter 3). 5 Where necessary, disconnect the wiring connector from the oil temperature sender unit, which is screwed into the sump. 6 Progressively slacken and remove all the sump retaining bolts. Since the sump bolts vary in length, remove each bolt in turn, and store it in its correct fitted order by pushing it through a clearly-marked cardboard template.

This will avoid the possibility of installing the bolts in the wrong locations on refitting. 7 Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of your hand. Lower the sump, and withdraw it from underneath the vehicle. Remove the gasket (where fitted), and discard it; a new one must be used on refitting. 8 While the sump is removed, take the opportunity to check the oil pump pickup/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If necessary, remove the pump as described in Section 14, and clean or renew the strainer. 9 On some models fitted with the 1905 cc 16-valve engine, a large spacer plate is fitted between the sump and the base of the cylinder block/crankcase. If this plate is fitted, undo the two retaining screws from diagonally-opposite corners of the plate. Remove the plate from the base of the engine, noting which way round it is fitted.

Refitting

10 Clean all traces of sealant/gasket from the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s interior. 11 Where a spacer plate is fitted, remove all traces of sealant/gasket from the spacer plate, then apply a thin coating of suitable sealant to the plate upper mating surface (see illustrations). Offer up the plate to the base of the cylinder block/crankcase, and securely tighten its retaining screws. 12 On models where the sump was fitted without a gasket (cast-aluminium sump), ensure that the sump mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a thin coating of suitable silicone sealant to the sump mating surface. 13 On models where the sump was fitted with a gasket (pressed-steel sump), ensure that all traces of the old gasket have been removed, and that the sump mating surfaces are clean and dry. Position the new gasket on the top of the sump, using a dab of grease to hold it in position. 14 Offer up the sump to the cylinder block/crankcase. Refit its retaining bolts, ensuring that each is screwed into its original location. Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting.

15 Where necessary, align the air conditioning compressor with its mountings on the sump, and insert the retaining bolts. Securely tighten the compressor retaining bolts, then refit the drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 16 Reconnect the wiring connector to the oil temperature sensor (where fitted). 17 Lower the vehicle to the ground, then refill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.

14 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the sump (see Section 13). 2 Where necessary, undo the two retaining

screws, and slide the sprocket cover off the front of the oil pump. 3 Slacken and remove the three bolts securing the oil pump to the base of the cylinder block/crankcase. Disengage the pump sprocket from the chain, and remove the oil pump (see illustration). Where necessary, also remove the spacer plate which is fitted behind the oil pump.

Inspection

4 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of damage and wear, such as chipped or missing teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump assembly must be renewed, since the sprocket is not available separately. It is also recommended that the chain and drive

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•21

14.3 Removing the oil pump

13.11b . . . then refit the plate to the base of the cylinder block/crankcase

13.11a Where a sump spacer plate is

fitted, apply a coat of suitable sealant to

the plate upper surface . . .

Page 76

sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, be renewed at the same time. To renew the chain and drive sprocket, first remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket as described in Section 8. Unbolt the oil seal carrier from the cylinder block. The sprocket and chain can then be slid off the end of the crankshaft. Refer to Part C for further information. 5 Slacken and remove the bolts (along with the baffle plate, where fitted) securing the strainer cover to the pump body. Lift off the strainer cover, and take off the relief valve piston and spring, noting which way round they are fitted (see illustrations). 6 Examine the pump rotors and body for signs of wear ridges or scoring. If worn, the complete pump assembly must be renewed. 7 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The condition of the relief valve spring can only be measured by comparing it with a new one; if there is any doubt about its condition, it should also be renewed. Both the piston and spring are available individually. 8 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of clogging or splitting. If the strainer is damaged, the strainer and cover assembly must be renewed. 9 Locate the relief valve spring and piston in the strainer cover. Refit the cover to the pump body, aligning the relief valve piston with its bore in the pump. Refit the baffle plate (where fitted) and the cover retaining bolts, and tighten them securely.

Refitting

10 Offer up the spacer plate (where fitted), then locate the pump sprocket with its drive chain. Seat the pump on the base of the cylinder block/crankcase. Refit the pump retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 11 Where necessary, slide the sprocket cover into position on the pump. Refit its retaining bolts, tightening them securely.

12 Refit the sump as described in Section 13.

15 Oil cooler -

removal and refitting

Note: The oil cooler is not fitted to all models.

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. Alternatively, clamp the oil cooler coolant hoses directly above the cooler, and be prepared for some coolant loss as the hoses are disconnected. 3 Position a suitable container beneath the oil filter. Unscrew the filter using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, and drain the oil into the container. If the oil filter is damaged or distorted during removal, it must be renewed. Given the low cost of a new oil filter relative to the cost of repairing the damage which could result if a re-used filter springs a leak, it is probably a good idea to renew the filter in any case. 4 Release the hose clips, and disconnect the coolant hoses from the oil cooler. 5 Unscrew the oil cooler/oil filter mounting bolt from the cylinder block, and withdraw the cooler. Note the locating notch in the cooler flange, which fits over the lug on the cylinder block (see illustration). Discard the oil cooler sealing ring; a new one must be used on refitting.

Refitting

6 Fit a new sealing ring to the recess in the rear of the cooler, then offer the cooler to the cylinder block. 7 Ensure that the locating notch in the cooler flange is correctly engaged with the lug on the cylinder block, then refit the mounting bolt and tighten it securely. 8 Fit the oil filter, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Top-up the engine oil (refer to “Weekly Checks”). 9 Refill or top-up the cooling system (as applicable) -see Chapter 1. Start the engine, and check the oil cooler for signs of leakage.

16 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and flanged spacer as described in Section 8. Secure the timing belt clear of the working area, so that it cannot be contaminated with oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal (see illustration). The seal can also be levered out. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver, but take care not to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal housing.

2B•22 XU engine in-car repair procedures

14.5a Remove the oil pump cover retaining bolts . . .

14.5c . . . and relief valve piston, noting which way round it is fitted

16.2 Using a self-tapping screw and pliers to remove the crankshaft oil seal

15.5 Oil cooler/oil filter mounting bolt (A) and locating notch (B)

14.5b . . . then lift off the cover and remove the spring . . .

Page 77

3 Clean the seal housing, and be sure to

polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip must be facing inwards. Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting. 5 Fit the new seal using a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Tap the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal. 6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 8.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 17. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing. 8 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 11 Fit the new seal using a suitable tubular drift, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Drive the seal into position, to the same depth in the housing as the original was prior to removal. 12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the flywheel/driveplate with reference to Section 17.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

Flywheel models with manual transmission

1 Remove the transmission as described in

Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly as described in Chapter 6. 2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement to that shown in illustration 5.3 (Section 5). Alternatively, bolt a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do not attempt to lock the flywheel in position using the crankshaft pulley locking pin described in Section 3. 3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining bolts, and remove the flywheel from the end of the crankshaft. Be careful not to drop it; it is heavy. If the flywheel locating dowel is a loose fit in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it with the flywheel for safe-keeping. Discard the

flywheel bolts; new ones must be used on refitting.

Driveplate models with automatic transmission

4 Remove the transmission as described in

Chapter 7B. Lock the driveplate as described in paragraph 2. Mark the relationship between the torque converter plate and the driveplate, and slacken all the driveplate retaining bolts. 5 Remove the retaining bolts, along with the torque converter plate and the two shims (one fitted on each side of the torque converter plate). Note that the shims are of different thickness, the thicker one being on the outside of the torque converter plate. Discard the driveplate retaining bolts; new ones must be used on refitting. 6 Remove the driveplate from the end of the crankshaft. If the locating dowel is a loose fit in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it with the driveplate for safe-keeping.

Inspection

7 On models with manual transmission, examine the flywheel for scoring of the clutch face, and for wear or chipping of the ring gear teeth. If the clutch face is scored, the flywheel may be surface-ground, but renewal is preferable. Seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist to see if machining is possible. If the ring gear is worn or damaged, the flywheel must be renewed, as it is not possible to renew the ring gear separately. 8 On models with automatic transmission, check the torque converter driveplate carefully for signs of distortion. Look for any hairline cracks around the bolt holes or radiating outwards from the centre, and inspect the ring gear teeth for signs of wear or chipping. If any sign of wear or damage is found, the driveplate must be renewed.

Refitting

Flywheel models with manual transmission

9 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel

and crankshaft. Remove any locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.

10 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already precoated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt (see

illustration). 11 Ensure that the locating dowel is in

position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. 12 Lock the flywheel using the method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see

illustration). 13 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.

Remove the flywheel locking tool, and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

Driveplate models with automatic transmission

14 Carry out the operations described above

in paragraphs 9 and 10, substituting “driveplate” for all references to the flywheel. 15 Locate the driveplate on its locating dowel. 16 Offer up the torque converter plate, with the thinner shim positioned behind the plate and the thicker shim on the outside, and align the marks made prior to removal. 17 Fit the new retaining bolts, then lock the driveplate using the method employed on dismantling. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 Remove the driveplate locking tool, and refit the transmission (see Chapter 7B).

18 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

XU engine in-car repair procedures 2B•23

17.12 . . . then refit the flywheel, and

tighten the bolts to the specified torque

17.10 If the new flywheel bolt threads are

not supplied with their threads pre-coated,

apply locking compound to them . . .

If a suitable tap is not available, cut two slots along the threads of one of

the old flywheel bolts, and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the threads.

Page 78

2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back and forth, or from side to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected even from new components, excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting - 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc models

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from their retaining clips, and position clear of the mounting so that they do not hinder the removal procedure. 6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Slacken and remove the three nuts securing the right-hand mounting bracket to the engine. Remove the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. 8 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body and remove it from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting bracket can be unbolted and removed from the side of the cylinder head. 9 Check all components carefully for wear or damage, and renew them where necessary. 10 On reassembly, screw the mounting rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it securely. Where removed, refit the mounting

bracket to the side of the cylinder head, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 11 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the mounting rubber stud, and install the mounting bracket. 12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting. 13 Remove the jack from underneath the engine, and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Right-hand mounting 1998 cc 8-valve and 16-valve models

14 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from their retaining clips. Place the hoses/wiring clear of the mounting so that the removal procedure is not hindered. 15 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 16 Undo the two bolts securing the curved mounting retaining plate to the body. Lift off the plate, and withdraw the rubber damper from the top of the mounting bracket. 17 Slacken and remove the two nuts and two bolts securing the right-hand engine/ transmission mounting bracket to the engine. Remove the single nut securing the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. 18 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from the body and remove it from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting bracket can be unbolted and removed from the front of the cylinder block. 19 Check all components carefully for signs of wear or damage, and renew as necessary. 20 On reassembly, screw the mounting rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it securely. Where removed, refit the mounting bracket to the front of the cylinder block, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 21 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the mounting rubber stud, and install the mounting bracket. 22 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining nuts to the specified torque setting, and remove the jack from underneath the engine.

23 Refit the rubber damper to the top of the mounting bracket, and refit the curved retaining plate. Tighten the retaining plate bolts to the specified torque, and reconnect the battery.

Left-hand mounting

24 Remove the battery and battery tray, as

described in Chapter 5. Slacken and remove the battery support plate mounting bolts. Release the wiring from its retaining clip on the plate, and remove the plate from the engine compartment. 25 Place a jack beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the transmission. 26 Slacken and remove the centre nut and washer from the left-hand mounting. Undo the two bolts securing the mounting bracket assembly to the vehicle body, and remove the assembly from the mounting stud. 27 Slide the spacer off the mounting stud, then unscrew the stud from the top of the transmission housing, and remove it along with its washer. If the mounting stud is tight, a universal stud extractor can be used to unscrew it. 28 Check all components carefully for signs of wear or damage, and renew as necessary. 29 Clean the threads of the mounting stud, and apply a coat of thread-locking compound to its threads. Refit the stud and washer to the top of the transmission, and tighten it to the specified torque setting. 30 Slide the spacer onto the mounting stud, then refit the mounting bracket assembly. Tighten both the mounting bracket-to-body bolts and the mounting centre nut to their specified torque settings, and remove the jack from underneath the transmission. 31 Refit the battery support plate, tightening its retaining bolts securely, then refit the battery as described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

32 Refer to Part A of this Chapter,

Section 16.

2B•24 XU engine in-car repair procedures

Page 79

Note: At the time of writing, many specifications for the 1761 cc and 1998 cc (16-valve) engines were not available. Where the relevant specifica- tions are not given here, refer to your Peugeot dealer for further information.

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Cylinder head height:

Standard:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.2 ± 0.08 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc (8-valve) and

1998 cc (8-valve and 16-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158.93 ± 0.05 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.0 ± 0.15 mm

Minimum after refinishing:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111.0 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc (8-valve) and

1998 cc (8-valve and 16-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158.73 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.8 mm

Valves

Valve head diameter:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.8 mm

1580 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.6 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1905 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.8 mm

1998 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.6 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.7 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.4 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.7 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1998 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.5 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.7 mm

Chapter 2 Part C:

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . .18

Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Engine and automatic transmission -

removal, separation and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine and manual transmission - removal, separation and refitting . . .4

Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine/transmission removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . .3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Piston/connecting rod assembly -

refitting and big-end bearing running clearance check . . . . . . . . .19

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

2C•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Page 80

Valves (continued)

Valve stem diameter:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.84 to 6.99 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.83 to 7.98 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1998 cc (8-valve) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.83 to 8.13 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.83 to 6.98 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.83 to 6.98 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.83 to 7.98 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1998 cc (8-valve) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.82 to 8.12 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.83 to 6.98 mm

Overall length:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112.76 ± 0.25 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) and 1998 cc (8-valve) engines . . . . 108.79 ± 0.1 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104.48 ± 0.1 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112.56 ± 0.25 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) and 1998 cc (8-valve) engines . . . . 108.37 ± 0.1 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103.00 ± 0.1 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1360 cc engine:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.000 to 75.010 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.010 to 75.020 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.020 to 75.030 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.000 to 83.010 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.010 to 83.020 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.020 to 83.030 mm

1998 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.000 to 83.018 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.250 to 86.268 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.600 to 86.618 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engine:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.000 to 83.010 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.010 to 83.020 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.020 to 83.030 mm

1998 cc (16-valve) engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

Liner protrusion above block mating surface aluminium-block engine only (ie all except 1998 cc):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.10 mm

Maximum difference between any two liners:

8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm

Pistons

Piston diameter:

1360 cc engine:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.950 ± 0.010 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.960 ± 0.010 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.970 ± 0.010 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.960 ± 0.007 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.970 ± 0.007 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.980 ± 0.007 mm

1905 cc 16-valve engine:

Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.963 to 82.977 mm

Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.973 to 82.987 mm

Size group C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82.983 to 82.997 mm

1998 cc 16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

2C•2 Engine removal and overhaul

Page 81

Connecting rods

Maximum weight difference between any two piston/connecting rod assemblies:

1360 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 g

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 g

1998 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 g

Crankshaft

Endfloat:

8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 to 0.32 mm

16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 to 0.27 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

1360 cc engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.965 to 49.981 mm

Undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.665 to 49.681 mm

1580 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59.981 to 60.000 mm

Undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59.681 to 59.700 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

1360 cc engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.975 to 45.000 mm

Undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.675 to 44.700 mm

1580 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.984 to 50.000 mm

Undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49.684 to 49.700 mm

1761 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available

Maximum bearing journal out-of-round (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.007 mm

Main bearing running clearance:

1360 cc models*:

Pre-February 1992 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.023 to 0.083 mm

February 1992-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.023 to 0.048 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and

1905 cc engines** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.050 mm

1998 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.038 to 0.069 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance - all models** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.050 mm

*On 1360 cc models, the main bearing shells were modified in February 1992, resulting in a reduction in the specified running clearance see text for further information.

**These are suggested figures, typical for this type of engine - no exact values are stated by Peugeot.

Piston rings

Note: The following are suggested figures - no exact values are stated by Peugeot.

End gaps:

Top compression ring:

1360 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm

1580 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 0.6 mm

1905 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 to 0.4 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm

Second compression ring:

1360 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.35 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm

Oil control ring:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 mm

Torque wrench settings

TU series engine

Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications

XU series engine

Refer to Chapter 2B Specifications

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•3

Page 82

1 General information

Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for the cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and all other engine internal components.

The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine internal components.

After Section 6, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A or B that are no longer relevant once the engine has been removed from the car.

Apart from torque wrench settings, which are given at the beginning of Part A or B (as applicable), all specifications relating to engine overhaul are at the beginning of this Part of Chapter 2.

2 Engine overhaul -

general information

1 It is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered. 2 High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early in its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn. Perform a compression test, as described in Part A of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in place of the oil pressure switch, and compare it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear

noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring all internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; if necessary, the crankshaft may be renewed, to restore the journals. The valves are also serviced as well, since they are usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the distributor, starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many troublefree miles.

Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and water pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. Also, it is a good idea to renew the oil pump whenever the engine is overhauled.

7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if you follow all of the instructions carefully, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an engineering works for repair or reconditioning. Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required for inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal.

Note: Always wait until the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.

8 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled with care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.

3 Engine/transmission

removal - methods and

precautions

1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure will help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Ensure the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is the first time you have removed an engine, an assistant should ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of the car. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and installation safely and with relative ease (in addition to an engine hoist) is as follows: a heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the front of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time. 7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-ityourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work. 8 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

2C•4 Engine removal and overhaul

Page 83

4 Engine and manual

transmission - removal,

separation and refitting

Note: Peugeot recommend that 8-valve XU engines are removed by lowering from the engine compartment, however in practise we found that on models not fitted with air conditioning, there is ample room to lift the engine upwards. Lowering the engine would involve raising the front of the vehicle onto axle stands approximately 21 inches high and also removing the engine subframe. On models fitted with air conditioning the engine may be lowered, or alternatively it can be lifted after removing the condenser and front panel (the refrigerant must first be evacuated by a qualified engineer if this method is used).

Removal

Note: The engine can be removed from the car only as a complete unit with the transmission; the two are then separated for overhaul.

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground. Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove both front roadwheels. 2 Set the bonnet in the upright position, and remove the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A. 3 On 8-valve XU engines remove the front cross panel with reference to Chapter 11 (see note at the beginning of this Section). 4 Remove the complete air cleaner housing and duct assembly, as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4 (see illustration). 5 If the engine is to be dismantled, working as described in Chapter 1, first drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Clean and refit the drain plug, tightening it securely. 6 Drain the transmission oil as described in Chapter 7A. Refit the drain and filler plugs, and tighten them to their specified torque settings. 7 Remove the alternator as described in Chapter 5A. 8 Where applicable, remove the power steering pump as described in Chapter 10.

9 On models with air conditioning, unbolt the compressor, and position it clear of the engine. Support the weight of the compressor by tying it to the vehicle body, to prevent any excess strain being placed on the compressor lines whilst the engine is removed. Do not disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor (refer to the warnings given in Chapter 3). 10 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. Where necessary on 8-valve XU engines, remove the radiator (see Chapter 3). 11 On carburettor models, carry out the following operations, using the information given in Chapter 4A:

a) Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the

anti-percolation chamber.

b) Disconnect the accelerator and choke

cables from the carburettor.

c) Disconnect the braking system servo

vacuum hose from the inlet manifold.

d) Remove the exhaust system front pipe.

12 On fuel injection models, carry out the following operations, using the information given in Chapter 4B or 4C (as applicable):

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses. b) Disconnect the accelerator cable. c) Disconnect the fuel system wiring

connectors. d) Disconnect the purge valve and/or

braking system servo vacuum hoses from

the inlet manifold (as applicable). e) Remove the exhaust system front pipe.

13 Referring to Chapter 3, release the retaining clip and disconnect the heater matrix hoses from their connection on the engine compartment bulkhead. 14 Working as described in Chapter 6, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission, and position it clear of the working area (see illustration). 15 Trace the wiring harness back from the engine to the wiring connector(s) in the engine compartment. Release the locking ring(s) by twisting them anti-clockwise and disconnect the connectors. Also trace the harness lead(s) back to the relay box, situated beside the battery. Unclip the wiring connector plate from the front of the relay box cover then undo the retaining nut and remove the cover. Lift up the engine harness lead cover then

undo the nut(s) and release the lead(s) from the relay box. Check that all the relevant connectors have been disconnected, and that the wiring is released from any relevant clips or ties, so that it is free to be removed with the engine/transmission. 16 From underneath the vehicle, slacken and remove the nuts and bolts securing the rear mounting link to the mounting assembly and subframe, and remove the link. 17 Remove both driveshafts as described in Chapter 8. 18 Carry out the following operations, using the information given in Chapter 7A:

a) Disconnect the gearchange selector

rod/link rods (as applicable) from the transmission.

b) Disconnect the speedometer cable from

the speedometer drive.

c) Disconnect the wiring connector(s) from

the reversing light switch and speedometer drive (as applicable).

19 Manoeuvre the engine hoist into position, and attach it to the lifting brackets bolted onto the cylinder head. Raise the hoist until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 20 Remove the right-hand engine mounting with reference to Chapter 2A.

Note: On certain models, if the right-hand engine mounting hydro-elastic unit is to be renewed because of wear/perishing, a special tool is needed to unscrew it from the wing panel, and for refitting and tightening to the specified torque (see illustration).

21 Slacken and remove the centre nut and washer from the engine/transmission lefthand mounting. Undo the two nuts and washers securing the mounting to its bracket and remove the mounting from the engine compartment and recover the spacer (where fitted). To improve clearance, (where possible) undo the two retaining bolts and remove the bracket from the body. 22 Make a final check that any components which would prevent the removal of the engine/transmission from the car have been removed or disconnected. Ensure that components such as the gearchange selector rod are secured so that they cannot be damaged on removal.

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•5

4.20 Special tool for removing and refitting right-hand engine mounting

hydro-elastic unit

4.14 Disconnecting the clutch cable4.4 Inlet air duct connection to the front

crossmember

Page 84

23 Lift the engine/transmission out of the car, ensuring that nothing is trapped or damaged. Enlist the help of an assistant during this procedure, as it will be necessary to tilt the assembly slightly to clear the body panels. On models equipped with anti-lock brakes, great care must be taken to ensure that the antilock braking system unit is not damaged during the removal procedure. 24 Once the engine is high enough, lift it out over the front of the body, and lower the unit to the ground.

Separation

25 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, support the assembly on suitable blocks of wood, on a workbench (or alternatively, on a clean area of the workshop floor). 26 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the flywheel lower cover plate (where fitted) from the transmission. 27 On models with a “pull-type” clutch release mechanism (see Chapter 6 for further information), tap out the retaining pin or unscrew the retaining bolt (as applicable), and remove the clutch release lever from the top of the release fork shaft. This is necessary to allow the fork shaft to rotate freely, so that it disengages from the release bearing as the transmission is pulled away from the engine. Make an alignment mark across the centre of the clutch release fork shaft, using a scriber, paint or similar, and mark its relative position on the transmission housing (see Chapter 7A for further information). 28 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts, and remove the starter motor from the transmission. 29 Ensure that both engine and transmission are adequately supported, then slacken and remove the remaining bolts securing the transmission housing to the engine. Note the correct fitted positions of each bolt (and the relevant brackets) as they are removed, to use as a reference on refitting. 30 Carefully withdraw the transmission from the engine, ensuring that the weight of the transmission is not allowed to hang on the input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch friction disc. 31 If they are loose, remove the locating dowels from the engine or transmission, and keep them in a safe place. 32 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, make a second alignment mark on the transmission housing, marking the relative position of the release fork mark after removal. This should indicate the angle at which the release fork is positioned. The mark can then be used to position the release fork prior to installation, to ensure that the fork correctly engages with the clutch release bearing as the transmission is installed.

Refitting

33 If the engine and transmission have been separated, perform the operations described

below in paragraphs 34 to 42. If not, proceed as described from paragraph 43 onwards. 34 Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease (Peugeot recommend the use of Molykote BR2 plus - available from your Peugeot dealer) to the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not apply too much, otherwise there is a possibility of the grease contaminating the clutch friction plate. 35 Ensure that the locating dowels are correctly positioned in the engine or transmission. 36 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, before refitting, position the clutch release bearing so that its arrow mark is pointing upwards (bearing fork slots facing towards the front of the engine), and align the release fork shaft mark with the second mark made on the transmission housing (release fork positioned at approximately 60° to clutch housing face). This will ensure that the release fork and bearing will engage correctly as the transmission is refitted to the engine. 37 Carefully offer the transmission to the engine, until the locating dowels are engaged. Ensure that the weight of the transmission is not allowed to hang on the input shaft as it is engaged with the clutch friction disc. 38 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, with the transmission fully engaged with the engine, check that the release fork and bearing are correctly engaged. If the release fork and bearing are correctly engaged, the mark on the release fork should be aligned with the original mark made on the transmission housing (see Chapter 7A for further information). 39 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets are correctly positioned, and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 40 Refit the starter motor, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 41 On models with a “pull-type” clutch release mechanism, refit the clutch release lever to the top of the release fork shaft, securing it in position with its retaining pin or bolt (as applicable). 42 Where necessary, refit the lower flywheel cover plate to the transmission, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 43 Reconnect the hoist and lifting tackle to the engine lifting brackets. With the aid of an assistant, lift the assembly over the engine compartment. 44 The assembly should be tilted as necessary to clear the surrounding components, as during removal; lower the assembly into position in the engine compartment, manipulating the hoist and lifting tackle as necessary. 45 With the engine/transmission in position, refit the right-hand engine/transmission mounting bracket, tightening its retaining nuts and bolts (as applicable) by hand only at this stage. 46 Working on the left-hand mounting, refit the mounting bracket (where removed) to the

body and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refit the mounting rubber and refit the mounting retaining nuts and washers and the centre nut and washer, tightening them lightly only. 47 From underneath the vehicle, refit the rear mounting link and install both its bolts. 48 Rock the engine to settle it on its mountings then go around and tighten all the mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque settings. Where necessary, once the right-hand mounting bracket nuts have been tightened, refit the rubber damper and curved retaining plate, tightening its retaining bolts to the specified torque. The hoist can then be detached from the engine and removed. 49 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a direct reversal of the removal sequence, noting the following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed and retained by all the relevant retaining clips; all connectors should be correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil seals as described in Chapter 7A.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the clutch cable as described in

Chapter 6.

e) Adjust the choke cable and/or accelerator

cable (as applicable) as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as described in Chapter 7A.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

5 Engine and automatic

transmission - removal,

separation and refitting

Removal

Note: The engine can be removed from the car only as a complete unit with the transmission; the two are then separated for overhaul.

1 Carry out the relevant operations described in paragraphs 1 to 24 of Section 4, noting that the transmission oil draining procedure is given in Chapter 1. Before lifting the engine from the engine compartment, carry out the following operations, using the information given in Chapter 7B:

a) Remove the transmission dipstick tube. b) Disconnect the wiring from the starter

inhibitor/reversing light switch and the speedometer drive housing. Release the earth strap(s) from the top of the

transmission housing. c) Disconnect the selector cable. d) Release the power steering pipe from the

transmission. e) Disconnect the speedometer cable.

2C•6 Engine removal and overhaul

Page 85

Separation

2 With the engine/transmission assembly removed, support the assembly on suitable blocks of wood, on a workbench (or failing that, on a clean area of the workshop floor). 3 Detach the kickdown cable from the throttle cam. Work back along the cable, freeing it from any retaining clips, and noting its correct routing. 4 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the driveplate lower cover plate from the transmission, to gain access to the torque converter retaining bolts. Slacken and remove the visible bolt. Rotate the crankshaft using a socket and extension bar on the pulley bolt, and undo the remaining bolts securing the torque converter to the driveplate as they become accessible. There are three bolts in total. 5 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts, and remove the starter motor from the transmission. 6 To ensure that the torque converter does not fall out as the transmission is removed, secure it in position using a length of metal strip bolted to one of the starter motor bolt holes. 7 Ensure that both the engine and transmission are adequately supported, then slacken and remove the remaining bolts securing the transmission housing to the engine. Note the correct fitted positions of each bolt (and any relevant brackets) as they are removed, to use as a reference on refitting. 8 Carefully withdraw the transmission from the engine. If the locating dowels are a loose fit in the engine/transmission, remove them and keep them in a safe place.

Refitting

9 If the engine and transmission have been separated, perform the operations described below in paragraphs 10 to 16. If not, proceed as described from paragraph 17 onwards. 10 Ensure that the bush fitted to the centre of the crankshaft is in good condition. Apply a little Molykote G1 grease (available from your Peugeot dealer) to the torque converter centring pin. Do not apply too much, otherwise there is a possibility of the grease contaminating the torque converter. 11 Ensure that the locating dowels are correctly positioned in the engine or transmission. 12 Carefully offer the transmission to the engine, until the locating dowels are engaged. 13 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets are correctly positioned, and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 14 Remove the torque converter retaining strap installed prior to removal. Align the torque converter threaded holes with the retaining plate, and refit the three retaining bolts. 15 Tighten the torque converter retaining

bolts to the specified torque setting, then refit the driveplate lower cover. 16 Refit the starter motor, and securely tighten its retaining bolts. 17 Refit the engine to the vehicle with reference to Section 4. 18 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a reversal of the removal sequence, noting the following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed, and retained by all the relevant retaining clips; all connectors should be correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil seals as described in Chapter 7B.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the selector cable and kickdown

cable as described in Chapter 7B.

e) Adjust the accelerator cable as described

in Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as described in Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

6 Engine overhaul -

dismantling sequence

1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be extracareful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you are going to obtain a reconditioned engine, all the external components must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will if you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components include the following:

a) Alternator mounting brackets. b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor brackets (where fitted).

c) Thermostat and housing, and coolant

outlet chamber/elbow (Chapter 3). d) Dipstick tube. e) Carburettor/fuel system components

(Chapter 4). f) All electrical switches and sensors. g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4). h) Oil filter (Chapter 1). i) Fuel pump - carburettor engines only

(Chapter 4). j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A or B of this

Chapter).

Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts, and other small items.

4 If you are obtaining a “short” engine (which consists of the engine cylinder block/ crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled), then the cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt will have to be removed also. 5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the engine can be dismantled, and the internal components removed, in the order given below, referring to Part A or B of this Chapter unless otherwise stated.

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4). b) Timing belt, sprockets and tensioner(s). c) Cylinder head. d) Flywheel/driveplate. e) Sump. f) Oil pump. g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 10).

h) Crankshaft (Section 11).

6 Before beginning the dismantling and overhaul procedures, make sure that you have all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to “Tools and working facilities” for further information.

7 Cylinder head - dismantling

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads are available from the manufacturer, and from engine overhaul specialists. Be aware that some specialist tools are required for the dismantling and inspection procedures, and new components may not be readily available. It may therefore be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head, rather than dismantle, inspect and recondition the original head.

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable). 2 If not already done, remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds with reference to the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 Remove the camshaft(s), followers and shims (as applicable) as described in Part A or B of this Chapter. 4 Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed. Release the compressor, and lift off the spring retainer, spring and spring seat. Using a pair of pliers, carefully extract the valve stem seal from the top of the guide (see illustrations). 5 If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the spring retainer refuses to free and expose the split collets, gently tap the top of the tool, directly over the retainer, with a light hammer. This will free the retainer.

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•7

Page 86

6 Withdraw the valve through the combustion chamber. 7 It is essential that each valve is stored together with its collets, retainer, spring, and spring seat. The valves should also be kept in their correct sequence, unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be kept and used again, place each valve assembly in a labelled polythene bag or similar small container (see illustration). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to the transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of the engine. 8 On XU engines extract the gauze oil filter from the oil gallery in the cylinder head (see

illustration).

8 Cylinder head and valves -

cleaning and inspection

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and valve components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be carried out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the

engine has been severely overheated, it is best to assume that the cylinder head is warped check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket material from the cylinder head. 3 Scrape away the carbon from the combustion chambers and ports, then wash the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a suitable solvent.

4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,

evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head surface is not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may be possible to have it machined, provided that

8.6 Checking the cylinder head gasket surface for distortion

7.8 Oil filter partly withdrawn from the oil gallery in the cylinder head

7.7 Place each valve and its associated

components in a labelled polythene bag

2C•8 Engine removal and overhaul

7.4a Compress the valve spring using a spring compressor . . .

7.4c Remove the spring retainer . . .

7.4f Remove the valve stem oil seal using a pair of pliers

7.4e . . . and the spring seat7.4d . . . followed by the valve spring . . .

7.4b . . . then extract the collets and release the spring compressor

Page 87

the cylinder head is not reduced to less than the specified height. 7 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are severely pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below. 8 Check the valve guides for wear by inserting the relevant valve, and checking for side-to-side motion of the valve. A very small amount of movement is acceptable. If the movement seems excessive, remove the valve. Measure the valve stem diameter (see below), and renew the valve if it is worn. If the valve stem is not worn, the wear must be in the valve guide, and the guide must be renewed. The renewal of valve guides is best carried out by a Peugeot dealer or engine overhaul specialist, who will have the necessary tools available. Where no valve stem diameter is specified, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer on the best course of action. 9 If renewing the valve guides, the valve seats should be re-cut or re-ground only after the guides have been fitted.

Valves

10 Examine the head of each valve for

pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 11 If the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the valve stem diameter at several points using a micrometer (see illustration). Any significant difference in the readings obtained indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 12 If the valves are in satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gastight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be used, unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted. If this is the case, the

cylinder head and valves should be inspected by an expert, to decide whether seat recutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 13 Valve grinding is done as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on a bench. 14 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head (see illustration). With a semirotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding compound. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. 15 If coarse grinding compound is being used, work only until a dull, matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-in the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 16 When all the valves have been ground-in, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head.

Valve components

17 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage and discoloration. No minimum free length is specified by Peugeot, so the only way of judging valve spring wear is by comparison with a new component. 18 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and

check it for squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost their tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being carried out. 19 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.

9 Cylinder head - reassembly

1 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations (see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them into the locations to which they have been ground. 2 Refit the spring seat then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem seal in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (see

illustration). 3 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat,

then refit the spring retainer. 4 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves.

5 With all the valves installed, place the cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a hammer and interposed block of wood, tap the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 6 Refit the camshaft(s), followers and shims (as applicable) as described in Part A or B of this Chapter. 7 On XU engines refit the gauze oil filter (clean) to the oil gallery in the cylinder head. If the filter is damaged fit a new one. 8 The cylinder head can then be refitted as described in Part A or B of this Chapter.

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•9

9.1 Lubricate the valve stems prior to refitting

8.14 Grinding-in a valve8.11 Measuring a valve stem diameter

9.2 Fitting a valve stem oil seal using a socket

Use a little dab of grease to hold the collets on the valve stem while the spring compressor is released.

Page 88

10 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - removal

1 Remove the cylinder head, sump and oil pump as described in Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable). 2 If there is a pronounced wear ridge at the top of any bore, it may be necessary to remove it with a scraper or ridge reamer, to avoid piston damage during removal. Such a ridge indicates excessive wear of the cylinder bore. 3 Using a hammer and centre-punch, paint or similar, mark each connecting rod big-end bearing cap with its respective cylinder number on the flat machined surface provided; if the engine has been dismantled before, note carefully any identifying marks made previously (see illustration). Note that No 1 cylinder is at the transmission (flywheel) end of the engine. 4 Turn the crankshaft to bring pistons 1 and 4 to BDC (bottom dead centre). 5 Unscrew the nuts from No 1 piston big-end bearing cap. Take off the cap, and recover the bottom half bearing shell (see illustration). If the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape the cap and the shell together. 6 To prevent the possibility of damage to the crankshaft bearing journals, tape over the connecting rod stud threads (see

illustration). 7 Using a hammer handle, push the piston up

through the bore, and remove it from the top of the cylinder block. Recover the bearing shell, and tape it to the connecting rod for safe-keeping. 8 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the connecting rod, and secure with the nuts this will help to keep the components in their correct order. 9 Remove No 4 piston assembly in the same way. 10 Turn the crankshaft through 180° to bring pistons 2 and 3 to BDC (bottom dead centre), and remove them in the same way.

11 Crankshaft - removal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump as described in Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable). Also unbolt and remove the timing belt rear cover noting the position of the special retaining studs (see

illustration). 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods,

as described in Section 10. If no work is to be done on the pistons and connecting rods, there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft journals. 3 Check the crankshaft endfloat as described in Section 14, then proceed as follows.

TU series aluminium block engines

4 Work around the outside of the cylinder block, and unscrew all the small (6 mm) bolts securing the main bearing ladder to the base of the cylinder block. Note the correct fitted depth of both the front and rear crankshaft oil seals in the cylinder block/main bearing ladder. 5 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly and progressively slacken the ten large (11 mm) main bearing ladder retaining bolts

by a turn at a time. Once all the bolts are loose, remove them from the ladder. 6 With all the retaining bolts removed, carefully lift the main bearing ladder casting away from the base of the cylinder block. Recover the lower main bearing shells, and tape them to their respective locations in the casting. If the two locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the casting for safe-keeping. 7 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard both the oil seals. Remove the oil pump drive chain from the end of the crankshaft. Where necessary, slide off the drive sprocket, and recover the Woodruff key. 8 Recover the upper main bearing shells, and store them along with the relevant lower bearing shell. Also recover the two thrustwashers (one fitted either side of No 2 main bearing) from the cylinder block.

TU series cast-iron block engines

9 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft front and rear oil seal housings from each end of the cylinder block, noting the correct fitted locations of the locating dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them and store them with the housings for safekeeping. 10 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and slide the drive sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping. 11 The main bearing caps should be numbered 1 to 5 from the transmission (flywheel) end of the engine. If not, mark them accordingly using a centre-punch or paint. 12 Unscrew and remove the main bearing cap bolts, and withdraw the caps. Recover the lower main bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. 13 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking care not to displace the upper main bearing shell. 14 Recover the upper bearing shells from the cylinder block, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing, and store them with the bearing cap.

2C•10 Engine removal and overhaul

10.3 Connecting rod and big-end bearing cap marked for identification

(No 3 cylinder shown)

10.6 To protect the crankshaft journals,

tape over the connecting rod stud threads

prior to removal

11.1 Timing belt rear cover special studs

10.5 Removing a big-end bearing cap and shell

Page 89

XU series engines

15 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts, and remove the oil seal carrier from the front (timing belt) end of the cylinder block, along with its gasket (where fitted) (see illustration). 16 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and slide the drive sprocket and spacer (where fitted) off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping (see illustrations). 17 The main bearing caps should be numbered 1 to 5, starting from the transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of the engine (see illustration). If not, mark them accordingly using a centre-punch. Also note the correct fitted depth of the rear crankshaft oil seal in the bearing cap. 18 On 1761 cc engines, undo the two bolts (one at the front of the block, and one at the rear) securing the centre main bearing cap to

the block. Remove the bolts, along with their sealing washers. 19 On all engines, slacken and remove the main bearing cap retaining bolts/nuts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. Also recover the lower thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing cap (see illustration). Remove the rubber sealing strips from the sides of No 1 main bearing cap, and discard them. 20 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard the rear oil seal (see illustration). 21 Recover the upper bearing shells from the cylinder block, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping (see illustration). Remove the upper thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main bearing, and store them with the lower halves.

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•11

11.16b . . . then slide off the drive sprocket . . .

11.19 Removing No 2 main bearing cap. Note the thrustwasher (arrowed)

11.17 Main bearing cap identification markings (arrowed)

11.16c . . . and remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft

11.16a Remove the oil pump drive chain . . .

11.15 Removing the oil seal carrier from

the front of the cylinder block - XU engine

11.20 Lifting out the crankshaft XU series engine

11.21 Remove the upper main bearing

shells from the cylinder block/crankcase,

and store them with their lower shells

12.1 Cylinder block core plugs (arrowed)

12 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

Cleaning

1 Remove all external components and electrical switches/sensors from the block. For complete cleaning, the core plugs should ideally be removed (see illustration). Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a selftapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by pulling on the screw with a pair of grips, or by using a slide hammer. 2 On aluminium block engines with wet liners, remove the liners, referring to paragraph 18. 3 Where applicable, undo the retaining bolt and remove the piston oil jet spray tube from inside the cylinder block. 4 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder block/crankcase, and from the main bearing

Page 90

ladder (where fitted), taking care not to damage the gasket/sealing surfaces. 5 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted). The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes retapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. 6 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all should be steam-cleaned. 7 After the castings are returned, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all internal passages with warm water until the water runs clear. Dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to prevent rusting. On cast-iron block engines, also oil the cylinder bores. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed up the drying process, and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries.

8 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do an adequate cleaning job with hot (as hot as you can stand!), soapy water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dry all components well. On cast-iron block engines, protect the cylinder bores as described above, to prevent rusting. 9 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. To clean the threads, run the correct-size tap into each of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation.

10 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes in the block. Tighten them securely. 11 Where applicable, clean the threads of the piston oil jet retaining bolt, and apply a drop of thread-locking compound to the bolt threads. Refit the piston oil jet spray tube to the cylinder block, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 12 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to keep it clean; protect all mating surfaces and the cylinder bores as described above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection

Cast-iron cylinder block

13 Visually check the castings for cracks and

corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal water leakage, it may be worthwhile having an engine overhaul specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase with special equipment. If defects are found, have them repaired if possible, or renew the assembly. 14 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. Check for a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder, indicating that the bore is badly worn. 15 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameter of each cylinder liner at the top (just under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. 16 Next, measure the bore diameter at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. Compare the results with the figures given in the Specifications. Where no figures are stated by Peugeot, if there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or suitable engine reconditioning specialist. 17 At the time of writing, it was not clear whether oversize pistons were available for all models. Consult your Peugeot dealer for the latest information on piston availability. If oversize pistons are available then it may be possible to have the cylinder bores rebored and fit the oversize pistons. If it proves oversize pistons are not available, and the bores are worn, renewal of the block seems to be the only option.

Aluminium cylinder block with wet liners

18 Remove the liner clamps (where used),

then use a hard wood drift to tap out each liner from the inside of the cylinder block. When all the liners are released, tip the cylinder block/crankcase on its side and remove each liner from the top of the block. As each liner is removed, stick masking tape on its left-hand (transmission side) face, and write the cylinder number on the tape. No 1 cylinder is at the transmission (flywheel/ driveplate) end of the engine. Remove the Oring from the base of each liner, and discard

(see illustrations). 19 Check each cylinder liner for scuffing and

scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the top of the liner, indicating that the bore is excessively worn. 20 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameter of each cylinder liner at the top (just under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. 21 Next, measure the bore diameter at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. Compare the results with the figures given in the Specifications. 22 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinder liners. 23 If the liner wear exceeds the permitted tolerances at any point, or if the cylinder liner walls are badly scored or scuffed, then renewal of the relevant liner assembly will be necessary. If there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. 24 If renewal is necessary, new liners, complete with pistons and piston rings, can be purchased from a Peugeot dealer. Note that it is not possible to buy liners individually

- they are supplied only as a matched assembly complete with piston and rings. 25 To allow for manufacturing tolerances, pistons and liners are separated into three size groups. The size group of each piston is indicated by a letter (A, B or C) stamped onto its crown, and the size group of each liner is indicated by a series of 1 to 3 notches on the upper lip of the liner; a single notch for group A, two notches for group B, and three

2C•12 Engine removal and overhaul

12.9 Cleaning a cylinder block threaded hole using a suitable tap

12.18b . . . and recover the bottom O-ring seal (arrowed)

12.18a On aluminium block engines, remove each liner . . .

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

Warning: Wear eye protection when cleaning out these holes in this way!

A good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied waterdispersant lubricant into each hole, using the long

spout usually supplied.

Page 91

notches for group C. Ensure that each piston and its respective liner are both of the same size group. It is permissible to have different size group piston and liner assemblies fitted to the same engine, but never fit a piston of one size group to a liner in a different group. 26 Prior to installing the liners, thoroughly clean the liner mating surfaces in the cylinder block, and use fine abrasive paper to polish away any burrs or sharp edges which might damage the liner O-rings. Clean the liners and wipe dry, then fit a new O-ring to the base of each liner. To aid installation, apply a smear of oil to each O-ring and to the base of the liner. 27 If the original liners are being refitted, use the marks made on removal to ensure that each is refitted the correct way round, and is inserted into its original position. Insert each liner into the cylinder block, taking care not to damage the O-ring, and press it home as far as possible by hand. Using a hammer and a block of wood, tap each liner lightly but fully onto its locating shoulder. Wipe clean, then lightly oil, all exposed liner surfaces, to prevent rusting. 28 With all four liners correctly installed, use a dial gauge (or a straight-edge and feeler blade) to check that the protrusion of each liner above the upper surface of the cylinder block is within the limits given in the Specifications. The maximum difference between any two liners must not be exceeded. 29 If new liners are being fitted, it is permissible to interchange them to bring the difference in protrusion within limits. Keep each piston with its respective liner. 30 If liner protrusion cannot be brought within limits, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist before proceeding with the engine rebuild.

13 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - inspection

1 Before the inspection process can begin, the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned, and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. 2 Carefully expand the old rings over the top of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the rings dropping into empty grooves (see illustration). Be careful not to scratch the piston with the ends of the ring. The rings are brittle, and will snap if they are spread too far. They’re also very sharp - protect your hands and fingers. Note that the third ring incorporates an expander. Always remove the rings from the top of the piston. Keep each set of rings with its piston if the old rings are to be re-used. 3 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once the majority of the deposits have been scraped away.

4 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves in the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring in half to do this (be careful not to cut your fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to remove only the carbon deposits - do not remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves. 5 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/connecting rod assembly with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes in the ring grooves are clear. 6 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not damaged or worn excessively, and if the cylinder block does not need to be rebored, the original pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear shows up as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. New piston rings should always be used when the engine is reassembled. 7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin holes, and at the piston ring “lands” (between the ring grooves). 8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating, and/or abnormal combustion which caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the sides of the pistons show that blow-by has occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or burned areas at the edge of the piston crown, indicates that abnormal combustion (pre-ignition, knocking, or detonation) has been occurring. If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be investigated and corrected, or the damage will occur again. The causes may include incorrect ignition/injection pump timing, or a faulty injector (as applicable). 9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of pitting, indicates that coolant has been leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected, or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine. 10 On aluminium-block engines with wet liners, it is not possible to renew the pistons separately; pistons are only supplied with

piston rings and a liner, as a part of a matched assembly (see Section 12). On iron-block engines, pistons can be purchased from a Peugeot dealer. 11 Examine each connecting rod carefully for signs of damage, such as cracks around the big-end and small-end bearings. Check that the rod is not bent or distorted. Damage is highly unlikely, unless the engine has been seized or badly overheated. Detailed checking of the connecting rod assembly can only be carried out by a Peugeot dealer or engine repair specialist with the necessary equipment. 12 On XU series engines, due to the tightening procedure for the connecting rod big-end cap retaining nuts, it is highly recommended that the big-end cap nuts and bolts are renewed as a complete set prior to refitting. 13 On all 8-valve engines the gudgeon pins are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end bearing. Therefore, piston and/or connecting rod renewal should be entrusted to a Peugeot dealer or engine repair specialist, who will have the necessary tooling to remove and install the gudgeon pins. 14 On 16-valve engines, the gudgeon pins are of the floating type, secured in position by two circlips. On these engines, the pistons and connecting rods can be separated as follows. 15 Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, prise out the circlips, and push out the gudgeon pin (see illustrations). Hand pressure should be sufficient to remove the pin. Identify the piston and rod to ensure

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•13

13.2 Removing a piston ring with the aid of a feeler gauge

13.15a On 16-valve engines, prise out the circlip . . .

13.15b . . . and withdraw the gudgeon pin

Page 92

correct reassembly. Discard the circlips - new ones must be used on refitting. 16 Examine the gudgeon pin and connecting rod small-end bearing for signs of wear or damage. Wear can be cured by renewing both the pin and bush. Bush renewal, however, is a specialist job - press facilities are required, and the new bush must be reamed accurately. 17 The connecting rods themselves should not be in need of renewal, unless seizure or some other major mechanical failure has occurred. Check the alignment of the connecting rods visually, and if the rods are not straight, take them to an engine overhaul specialist for a more detailed check. 18 Examine all components, and obtain any new parts from your Peugeot dealer. If new pistons are purchased, they will be supplied complete with gudgeon pins and circlips. Circlips can also be purchased individually. 19 Position the piston so that the arrow on the piston crown is positioned as shown in relation to the connecting rod big-end bearing shell cutouts (see illustration). Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod, then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located in its groove in the piston.

14 Crankshaft - inspection

Checking crankshaft endfloat

1 If the crankshaft endfloat is to be checked, this must be done when the crankshaft is still installed in the cylinder block/crankcase, but is free to move (see Section 11). 2 Check the endfloat using a dial gauge in contact with the end of the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero the gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check the endfloat. The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required (see illustration). 3 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel/driveplate end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap between the web of No 2 crankpin and the thrustwasher (see illustration).

Inspection

4 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with compressed air if available. Be sure to clean the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar probe, to ensure that they are not obstructed.

5 Check the main and big-end bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and cracking. 6 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by distinct metallic knocking when the engine is running (particularly noticeable when the engine is pulling from low speed) and some loss of oil pressure. 7 Main bearing wear is accompanied by severe engine vibration and rumble - getting progressively worse as engine speed increases - and again by loss of oil pressure. 8 Check the bearing journal for roughness by running a finger lightly over the bearing surface. Any roughness (which will be accompanied by obvious bearing wear) indicates that the crankshaft requires regrinding (where possible) or renewal. 9 If the crankshaft has been reground, check for burrs around the crankshaft oil holes (the holes are usually chamfered, so burrs should not be a problem unless regrinding has been carried out carelessly). Remove any burrs with a fine file or scraper, and thoroughly clean the oil holes as described previously. 10 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and big-end bearing journals, and compare the results with the Specifications (see illustration). By measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal’s circumference, you will be able to determine whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at each end of the journal, near the webs, to determine if the journal is tapered. Compare the results obtained with those given in the Specifications. Where no specified journal diameters are quoted, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer. 11 Check the oil seal contact surfaces at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the seal has worn a deep groove in the surface of the crankshaft, consult an engine overhaul specialist; repair may be possible, but otherwise a new crankshaft will be required. 12 At the time of writing, it was not clear whether Peugeot produce oversize bearing shells for all of these engines. On some engines, if the crankshaft journals have not already been reground, it may be possible to have the crankshaft reconditioned, and to fit

14.10 Measuring a crankshaft big-end journal diameter

2C•14 Engine removal and overhaul

13.15c Piston and connecting rod components

14.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat using feeler gauges

14.2 Checking crankshaft endfloat using a dial gauge

13.19 On 16-valve engines, on refitting

ensure that the piston arrow is positioned

as shown, in relation to the connecting rod

bearing shell cutout (a)

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

Page 93

undersize shells (see Section 18). If no undersize shells are available and the crankshaft has worn beyond the specified limits, it will have to be renewed. Consult your Peugeot dealer or engine specialist for further information on parts availability.

15 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

1 Even though the main and big-end bearings should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine. The bearing shells are graded by thickness, the grade of each shell being indicated by the colour code marked on it. 2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, or corrosion (see illustration). Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, the cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, the main bearing ladder/caps (as appropriate), the connecting rods and the connecting rod bigend bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers while checking it, or the delicate surface may be scratched. 4 Dirt and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass through filters or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication

breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from the steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on it. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy. Refer to Section 18 for details of bearing shell selection.

16 Engine overhaul - reassembly

sequence

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure carefully to familiarise yourself with the work involved, and to ensure that all items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A suitable tube of liquid sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets. It is recommended that Peugeot’s own product(s) are used, which are specially formulated for this purpose. 2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order:

a) Crankshaft (Section 18). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 19). c) Oil pump . d) Sump (See Part A or B - as applicable). e) Flywheel (See Part A or B - as applicable). f) Cylinder head (See Part A or B - as

applicable). g) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and

timing belt (See Part A or B - as

applicable). h) Engine external components.

3 At this stage, all engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out (or in individual containers) on a completely clean work surface.

17 Piston rings - refitting

1 Before fitting new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be checked as follows. 2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assemblies and the new piston ring sets, so that the ring sets will be matched with the same piston and cylinder during the end gap measurement and subsequent engine reassembly. 3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and push it down the bore using the top of the piston. This will ensure that the ring remains square with the cylinder walls. Position the ring near the bottom of the cylinder bore, at the lower limit of ring travel. Note that the top and second compression rings are different. The second ring is easily identified by the step on its lower surface, and by the fact that its outer face is tapered.

4 Measure the end gap using feeler blades. 5 Repeat the procedure with the ring at the

top of the cylinder bore, at the upper limit of its travel, and compare the measurements

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•15

15.2 Typical bearing failures

Page 94

with the figures given in the Specifications (see illustration). Where no figures are given, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist. 6 If the gap is too small (unlikely if genuine Peugeot parts are used), it must be enlarged, or the ring ends may contact each other during engine operation, causing serious damage. Ideally, new piston rings providing the correct end gap should be fitted. As a last resort, the end gap can be increased by filing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends contacting the file face, and slowly move the ring to remove material from the ends. Take care, as piston rings are sharp, and are easily broken. 7 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that the end gap will be too large. If the gaps are too large, check that you have the correct rings for your engine and for the particular cylinder bore size. 8 Repeat the checking procedure for each ring in the first cylinder, and then for the rings in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. 9 Once the ring end gaps have been checked and if necessary corrected, the rings can be fitted to the pistons. 10 Fit the piston rings using the same technique as for removal. Fit the bottom (oil control) ring first, and work up. When fitting the oil control ring, first insert the expander (where fitted), then fit the ring with its gap positioned 180° from the expander gap. Ensure that the second compression ring is fitted the correct way up, with its identification mark (either a dot of paint or the word “TOP” stamped on the ring surface) at the top, and the stepped surface at the bottom (see illustration). Arrange the gaps of the top and second compression rings 120° either side of the oil control ring gap. Note: Always follow

any instructions supplied with the new piston ring sets - different manufacturers may specify different procedures. Do not mix up the top and second compression rings, as they have different cross-sections.

18 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running clearance check

Selection of new bearing shells

TU series engine

1 On early engines, both upper and lower

main bearing shells were of the same thickness, with only two sizes of bearing shells being available: a standard size for use with the standard crankshaft, and a set of oversize bearing shells for use once the crankshaft bearing journals have been reground. 2 However, since February 1992, the specified main bearing running clearance has been significantly reduced. This has been achieved by the introduction of three different grades of bearing shell, in both standard sizes and oversizes. The grades are indicated by a colour-coding marked on the edge of each shell, which denotes the shell’s thickness, as listed in the following table. The upper shell on all bearings is of the same size (class B, colour code black), and the running clearance is controlled by fitting a lower bearing shell of

the required thickness. This arrangement has been fitted to all engines produced since February 1992 and, if possible, should also be fitted to earlier engines during overhaul. Seek the advice of your Peugeot dealer on parts availability and the best course of action when ordering new bearing shells.

Aluminium block engine

Bearing Thickness (mm) colour code Standard Undersize

Blue (class A) 1.823 1.973 Black (class B) 1.835 1.985 Green (class C) 1.848 1.998

Cast-iron block engine

Bearing Thickness (mm) colour code Standard Undersize

Blue (class A) 1.844 1.994 Black (class B) 1.858 2.008 Green (class C) 1.869 2.019

3 On early engines, the correct size of bearing shell must be selected by measuring the running clearance as described under the sub-heading below. 4 On engines produced since February 1992, when the new bearing shell sizes were introduced, the crankshaft and cylinder block/crankcase have reference marks on them, to identify the size of the journals and bearing bores. 5 The cylinder block reference marks are on the right-hand (timing belt) end of the block, and the crankshaft reference marks are on the right-hand (timing belt) end of the crankshaft, on the right-hand web of No 4 crankpin (see illustration). These marks can be used to select bearing shells of the required thickness as follows. 6 On both the crankshaft and block there are two lines of identification: a bar code, which is used by Peugeot during production, and a row of five letters. The first letter in the sequence refers to the size of No 1 bearing (at the flywheel/driveplate end). The last letter in the sequence (which is followed by an arrow) refers to the size of No 5 main bearing. These marks can be used to select the required bearing shell grade as follows. 7 Obtain the identification letter of both the relevant crankshaft journal and the cylinder block bearing bore. Noting that the cylinder

2C•16 Engine removal and overhaul

17.5 Measuring a piston ring end gap

1 Oil control ring 2 Second compression ring 3 Top compression ring

17.10 Piston ring fitting diagram (typical)

18.5 Cylinder block and crankshaft main bearing reference marking locations -

TU series engines

Page 95

block letters are listed across the top of the chart, and the crankshaft letters down the side, trace a vertical line down from the relevant cylinder block letter, and a horizontal line across from the relevant crankshaft letter, and find the point at which both lines cross. This crossover point will indicate the grade of lower bearing shell required to give the correct main bearing running clearance. For example, the illustration shows cylinder block reference G, and crankshaft reference T, crossing at a point within the area of Class A, indicating that a blue-coded (Class A) lower bearing shell is required to give the correct main bearing running clearance (see

illustration). 8 Repeat this procedure so that the required

bearing shell grade is obtained for each of the five main bearing journals.

XU series engine

9 On some early engines, both the upper and

lower bearing shells were of the same thickness. 10 However, on later engines the main bearing running clearance was significantly reduced. To enable this to be done, four different grades of bearing shell were introduced. The grades are indicated by a colour-coding marked on the edge of each shell, which denotes the shell’s thickness, as listed in the following table. The upper shell on all bearings is of the same size, and the running clearance is controlled by fitting a lower bearing shell of the required thickness.

Note: On all XU series engines, upper shells are easily distinguished from lower shells, by their grooved bearing surface; the lower shells have a plain surface. It was not clear at the time of writing whether undersize bearing shells are available for 1998 cc engine. Refer to your Peugeot dealer for the latest information.

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engines

Bearing colour Thickness (mm) code Standard Undersize

Upper bearing:

Yellow 1.856 2.006

Lower bearing:

Blue (Class A) 1.836 1.986 Black (Class B) 1.848 1.998 Green (Class C) 1.859 2.009 Red (Class D) 1.870 2.020

1998 cc engines

Bearing colour Thickness (mm) code Standard Undersize

Upper bearing:

Black 1.847 N/A

Lower bearing:

Blue (Class A) 1.844 N/A Black (Class B) 1.857 N/A Green (Class C) 1.866 N/A Red (Class D) 1.877 N/A

11 On most later engines, new bearing shells can be selected using the reference marks on the cylinder block/crankcase. The cylinder block marks identify the diameter of the bearing bores, and the crankshaft marks the diameter of the crankshaft journals. Where no marks are present, the bearing shells can only be selected by checking the running clearance (see below). 12 The cylinder block reference marks are on the left-hand (flywheel/driveplate) end of the block, and the crankshaft reference marks are on the end web of the crankshaft (see illustration). These marks can be used to select bearing shells of the required thickness as follows. 13 On both the crankshaft and block there are two lines of identification: a bar code, which is used by Peugeot during production, and a row of five letters. The first letter in the sequence refers to the size of No 1 bearing (at

the flywheel/driveplate end). The last letter in the sequence (which is followed by an arrow) refers to the size of No 5 main bearing. These marks can be used to select the required bearing shell grade as follows. 14 Obtain the identification number/letter of both the relevant crankshaft journal and the cylinder block bearing bore. Noting that the crankshaft references are listed across the top of the chart, and the cylinder block references down the side, trace a vertical line down from the relevant crankshaft reference, and a horizontal line across from the relevant cylinder block reference, and find the point at which both lines cross. This crossover point will indicate the grade of lower bearing shell required to give the correct main bearing running clearance. For example, the illustration shows crankshaft reference 6, and cylinder block reference H, crossing at a point within the RED area, indicating that a Redcoded (Class D) lower bearing shell is required to give the correct main bearing running clearance (see illustration). 15 Repeat this procedure so that the required bearing shell grade is obtained for each of the five main bearing journals. 16 Seek the advice of your Peugeot dealer on parts availability, and on the best course of action when ordering new bearing shells.

Note: On early models, at overhaul it is recommended that the later bearing shell arrangement is fitted. This, however, should only be done if the lubrication system components are upgraded (necessitating replacement of the oil pump relief valve piston and spring as well as the pump sprocket and

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•17

A Bar Code (for production use only) B Reference marks

18.12 Cylinder block and crankshaft main bearing reference marking locations -

XU series engines

18.7 Main bearing shell selection chart, for use with TU series engines see text for further information

Page 96

drive chain) at the same time. If the new bearing arrangement is to be used without uprating the lubrication system, Peugeot state that Blue (Class A) lower bearing shells should be fitted. Refer to your Peugeot dealer for further information.

17 Since there are no bearing identification marks, the relevant main bearing shell grade must be selected by measuring the main bearing running clearance.

Main bearing running clearance check

TU series engine

18 On early engines, if the modified bearing

shells are to be fitted, obtain a set of new black (Class B) upper bearing shells and new blue (Class A) lower bearing shells. On later (February 1992-on) engines where the modified bearing shells are already fitted, the running clearance check can be carried out using the original bearing shells. However, it is preferable to use a new set, since the results obtained will be more conclusive. 19 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the cylinder block/crankcase and the main bearing ladder. 20 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch in the cylinder

block/crankcase or main bearing ladder location. Take care not to touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers. Note that the grooved bearing shells, both upper and lower, are fitted to Nos 2 and 4 main bearings (see illustration). If the original bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 21 One method (which will be difficult to achieve without a range of internal micrometers or internal/external expanding calipers) is to refit the main bearing ladder casting to the cylinder block/crankcase, with the bearing shells in place. With the casting retaining bolts correctly tightened, measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and then subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the main bearing running clearance. 22 The second (and more accurate) method is to use a product known as “Plastigauge”. This consists of a fine thread of perfectlyround plastic, which is compressed between the bearing shell and the journal. When the shell is removed, the plastic is deformed, and can be measured with a special card gauge

supplied with the kit. The running clearance is determined from this gauge. Plastigauge should be available from your Peugeot dealer, otherwise enquiries at one of the larger specialist motor factors should produce the name of a stockist in your area. The procedure for using Plastigauge is as follows. 23 With the main bearing upper shells in place, carefully lay the crankshaft in position. Do not use any lubricant; the crankshaft journals and bearing shells must be perfectly clean and dry. 24 Cut several lengths of the appropriatesize Plastigauge (they should be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings), and place one length on each crankshaft journal axis (see illustration). 25 With the main bearing lower shells in position, refit the main bearing ladder casting, tightening its retaining bolts as described in paragraph 45. Take care not to disturb the Plastigauge, and do not rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation. 26 Remove the main bearing ladder casting, again taking great care not to disturb the Plastigauge or rotate the crankshaft. 27 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigauge on each journal to the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the main bearing running clearance (see illustration). Compare the clearance measured with that given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. 28 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be the wrong size (or excessively worn, if the original shells are being re-used). Before deciding that different-size shells are required, make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between the bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider at one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered. 29 If the clearance is not as specified, use the reading obtained, along with the shell thicknesses quoted above, to calculate the necessary grade of bearing shells required. When calculating the bearing clearance required, bear in mind that it is always better to have the running clearance towards the

2C•18 Engine removal and overhaul

18.14 Main bearing shell selection chart, for use with XU series engines see text for further information

18.20 On TU series engines, note that the grooved bearing shells are fitted to

Nos 2 and 4 main bearing journals

18.27 Measuring the width of the

deformed Plastigauge using the scale on

the card provided

18.24 Plastigauge in place on a crankshaft main bearing journal

Page 97

lower end of the specified range, to allow for wear in use. 30 Where necessary, obtain the required grades of bearing shell, and repeat the running clearance checking procedure as described above. 31 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or a wooden or plastic scraper which is unlikely to score the bearing surfaces.

XU series engine

32 On early engines, if the later bearing shells

are to be fitted, obtain a set of new upper bearing shells, and new green or grey (as applicable) lower bearing shells (see paragraph 10). On later engines where the modified bearing shells are already fitted, the running clearance check can be carried out using the original bearing shells. However, it is preferable to use a new set, since the results obtained will be more conclusive. 33 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the cylinder block/crankcase and the main bearing caps. 34 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch in the cylinder block/crankcase or bearing cap. Take care not to touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers. Note that the upper bearing shells all have a grooved bearing surface, whereas the lower shells have a plain bearing surface (see illustration). If the original

bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations.

35 The clearance can be checked in two ways. 36 One method (which will be difficult to

achieve without a range of internal micrometers or internal/external expanding calipers) is to refit the main bearing caps to the cylinder block/crankcase, with bearing shells in place. With the cap retaining bolts tightened to the specified torque, measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and then subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the main bearing running clearance. 37 The second, and more accurate, method is to use Plastigauge. The method is as described above in paragraphs 17 to 26, substituting “main bearing caps” for all references to the main bearing ladder casting. 38 Note that Peugeot do not specify a main bearing running clearance for 1905 cc engines. The figure given in the Specifications is a guide figure which is typical for this type of engine. On these engines, therefore, always refer to your Peugeot dealer for details of the exact running clearance before condemning the components concerned.

Final crankshaft refitting

TU aluminium block engines

39 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the

cylinder block once more.

40 Using a little grease, stick the upper thrustwashers to each side of the No 2 main bearing upper location; ensure that the oilway grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards (away from the cylinder block) (see

illustration). 41 Place the bearing shells in their locations

as described earlier. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lintfree cloth. Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in the cylinder block/crankcase with clean engine oil (see illustration). 42 Refit the Woodruff key, then slide on the oil pump drive sprocket, and locate the drive chain on the sprocket (see illustration). Lower the crankshaft into position so that Nos 2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC; Nos 1 and 4 cylinder crankpins will be at BDC, ready for fitting No 1 piston. Check the crankshaft endfloat as described in Section 13. 43 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and the main bearing ladder. Apply a thin bead of suitable sealant to the cylinder block/crankcase mating surface of the main bearing ladder casting, then spread to an even film (see

illustration). 44 Lubricate the lower bearing shells with

clean engine oil, then refit the main bearing ladder, ensuring that the shells are not displaced, and that the locating dowels engage correctly (see illustration). 45 Install the ten 11 mm main bearing ladder

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•19

18.41 Ensure each bearing shell tab (arrowed) is correctly located,

and apply clean engine oil

18.44 . . . then lower the main bearing ladder into position

18.43 Apply a film of suitable sealant to

cylinder block/crankcase mating surface . . .

18.42 Refitting the oil pump drive chain

and sprocket - TU aluminium block engine

18.40 Refitting a crankshaft thrustwasher

- TU series aluminium block engine

18.34 On XU engines, all the lower shells have a plain bearing surface. Ensure tab

(arrowed) is correctly located in the cap

Page 98

retaining bolts, and tighten them all by hand only. Working progressively outwards from the centre bolts, tighten the ten bolts, by a turn at a time, to the specified Stage 1 torque wrench setting. Once all the bolts have been tightened to the Stage 1 setting, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy (see illustrations). If a gauge is not available, use a dab of white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and casting prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the bolt has been rotated sufficiently during tightening. 46 Refit all the 6 mm bolts securing the main bearing ladder to the base of the cylinder block, and tighten them to the specified torque. Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. 47 Refit the piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft as described in Section 18. 48 Ensuring that the drive chain is correctly located on the sprocket, refit the oil pump and sump as described in Part A of this Chapter. 49 Fit two new crankshaft oil seals as described in Part A. 50 Refit the flywheel as described in Part A of this Chapter. 51 Where removed, refit the cylinder head as described in Part A. Also refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Part A.

TU series cast-iron block engine

52 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the

cylinder block once more. 53 Using a little grease, stick the upper thrustwashers to each side of No 2 main bearing upper location. Ensure the oilway grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards (away from the cylinder block) (see illustration). 54 Place the bearing shells in their locations as described earlier (see illustration). If new shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. Liberally lubricate each bearing shell in the cylinder block/ crankcase and cap with clean engine oil. 55 Lower the crankshaft into position so that Nos 2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC; Nos 1 and 4 cylinder crankpins will be at BDC, ready for fitting No 1 piston. Check the crankshaft endfloat, referring to Section 14. 56 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make sure that the locating lugs on the shells engage with the corresponding recesses in the caps. 57 Fit the main bearing caps to their correct locations, ensuring that they are fitted the correct way round (the bearing shell lug recesses in the block and caps must be on the same side). Insert the bolts loosely. 58 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified Stage 1 torque wrench setting. Once all the bolts have been tightened to the Stage 1 setting, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended

that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use a dab of white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and casting prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the bolt has been rotated sufficiently during tightening.

59 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely. 60 Refit the piston/connecting rod

assemblies to the crankshaft as described in Section 19. 61 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft groove, and slide on the oil pump drive sprocket. Locate the drive chain on the sprocket. 62 Ensure that the mating surfaces of front oil seal housing and cylinder block are clean and dry. Note the correct fitted depth of the front oil seal then, using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, lever the seal out of the housing. 63 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to the oil seal housing mating surface, and make sure that the locating dowels are in position. Slide the housing over the end of the crankshaft, and into position on the cylinder block. Tighten the housing retaining bolts securely. 64 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 62 and 63, and fit the rear oil seal housing. 65 Fit a new front and rear crankshaft oil seal as described in Part A of this Chapter. 66 Ensuring that the chain is correctly located on the drive sprocket, refit the oil pump and sump as described in Part A of this Chapter.

67 Refit the flywheel (Part A of this Chapter). 68 Where removed, refit the cylinder head

and install the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt - see the relevant Sections of Part A.

XU series engines

69 Carry out the operations described above

in paragraphs 52 to 56. 70 Fit main bearing caps Nos 2 to 5 to their correct locations, ensuring that they are fitted the correct way round (the bearing shell tab recesses in the block and caps must be on the same side). Insert the bolts/nuts, tightening them only loosely at this stage. 71 Apply a small amount of sealant to No 1 main bearing cap face mating on the cylinder block, around the sealing strip holes (see illustration).

2C•20 Engine removal and overhaul

18.45a Tighten ten 11 mm main bearing bolts to the stage 1 torque setting . . .

18.53 Fitting a thrustwasher to

No 2 main bearing upper location

18.71 Applying sealant to the cylinder

block No 1 main bearing cap mating face

18.54 Ensure tab (arrowed) is located in the cap when fitting the bearing shells

18.45b . . . then angle-tighten them through the specified stage 2 angle

Page 99

72 Locate the tab of each sealing strip over

the pins on the base of No 1 bearing cap, and press the strips into the bearing cap grooves. It is now necessary to obtain two thin metal strips, of 0.25 mm thickness or less, in order to prevent the strips moving when the cap is being fitted. Peugeot garages use the tool shown, which acts as a clamp. Metal strips (such as old feeler blades) can be used, provided all burrs which may damage the sealing strips are first removed (see

illustrations). 73 Where applicable, oil both sides of the

metal strips, and hold them on the sealing strips. Fit the No 1 main bearing cap, insert the bolts loosely, then carefully pull out the metal strips in a horizontal direction, using a pair of pliers (see illustrations). 74 Tighten all the main bearing cap bolts/nuts evenly to the specified torque. Using a sharp knife, trim off the ends of the No 1 bearing cap sealing strips, so that they protrude above the cylinder block/crankcase mating surface by approximately 1 mm (see

illustrations). 75 On 1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc

engines, refit the centre main bearing side retaining bolts and sealing washers (one at the front of the block, and one at the rear) and tighten them both to the specified torque. 76 Fit a new crankshaft rear oil seal as described in Part B of this Chapter. 77 Refit the piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft as described in Section 19.

78 Refit the Woodruff key, then slide on the oil pump drive sprocket and spacer (where fitted), and locate the drive chain on the sprocket. 79 Ensure that the mating surfaces of the front oil seal carrier and cylinder block are clean and dry. Note the correct fitted depth of the oil seal then, using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, lever the old seal out of the housing. 80 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to the oil seal carrier mating surface. Ensure that the locating dowels are in position, then slide the carrier over the end of the crankshaft and into position on the cylinder block. Tighten the carrier retaining bolts to the specified torque. 81 Fit a new crankshaft front oil seal as described in Part B of this Chapter. 82 Ensuring that the drive chain is correctly located on the sprocket, refit the oil pump and sump -refer to Part B or C of this Chapter. 83 Where removed, refit the rear timing cover and cylinder head as described in Part B.

19 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - refitting and big-

end bearing clearance check

Selection of bearing shells

1 On most engines, there are two sizes of big-end bearing shell produced by Peugeot; a standard size for use with the standard crankshaft, and an oversize for use once the crankshaft journals have been reground.

2 Consult your Peugeot dealer for the latest information on parts availability. To be safe, always quote the diameter of the crankshaft big-end crankpins when ordering bearing shells. 3 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the big-end bearing running clearance should be checked as follows.

Big-end bearing running clearance check

4 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 5 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch in the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers (see illustration). If the

Engine removal and overhaul 2C•21

18.73a Fitting No 1 main bearing cap,

using metal strips to retain the side seals

18.74b . . . then trim the sealing strips, so

that they protrude above the cylinder block

mating surface by approximately 1 mm

18.74a With all bearing caps correctly

installed, tighten their retaining nuts and

bolts to the specified torque . . .

18.73b Removing a metal strip from No 1 main bearing cap using a pair of pliers

18.72b Using the Peugeot special tool to fit No 1 main bearing cap

18.72a Fitting a sealing strip to No 1 main bearing cap

19.5 Fitting a bearing shell to a connecting rod - ensure tab (arrowed) engages with

the recess in the connecting rod

Page 100

original bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 6 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to the connecting rod, ensuring that they are fitted the correct way around (see paragraph 20), with the bearing shells in place. With the cap retaining nuts correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and then subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end bearing running clearance. 7 The second, and more accurate, method is to use Plastigauge (see Section 18). 8 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. Place a strand of Plastigauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 9 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the big-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 10 Tighten the bearing cap nuts as described below in paragraph 21 or 22 (as applicable). Take care not to disturb the Plastigauge or rotate the connecting rod during the tightening sequence. 11 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the bigend bearing running clearance. 12 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be the wrong size (or excessively worn, if the original shells are being re-used). Make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between the bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider at one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered. 13 Note that Peugeot do not specify a recommended big-end bearing running clearance. The figure given in the Specifications is a guide figure, which is typical for this

type of engine. Before condemning the components concerned, refer to your Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for further information on the specified running clearance. Their advice on the best course of action to be taken can then also be obtained. 14 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the bearing surfaces.

Final piston/connecting rod refitting

15 Note that the following procedure assumes that the cylinder liners (where fitted) are in position in the cylinder block/crankcase as described in Section 12, and that the crankshaft and main bearing ladder/caps are in place (see Section 18). 16 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted as described earlier. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 17 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/connecting rod assembly in its respective position. 18 Start with assembly No 1. Make sure that the piston rings are still spaced as described in Section 17, then clamp them in position with a piston ring compressor. 19 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder/liner No 1. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on Diesel engines ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder/liner until the piston crown is flush with the top of the cylinder/liner (see illustration). 20 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder/liner bores, pull the

piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin. Refit the big-end bearing cap, tightening its retaining nuts finger-tight at first. Note that the faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 21 On TU series engines, tighten the bearing cap retaining nuts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. 22 On XU series engines, tighten the bearing cap retaining nuts evenly and progressively to the stage 1 torque setting. Fully slacken both nuts, then tighten them to the stage 2 torque setting. Once both nuts have been tightened to the stage 2 setting, angle-tighten them through the specified stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy (see illustrations). If a gauge is not available, use a dab of white paint to make alignment marks between the nut and bearing cap prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check that the nut has been rotated sufficiently during tightening. 23 On all engines, once the bearing cap retaining nuts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that it turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 24 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 25 Refit the cylinder head and oil pump as described in Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable).

20 Engine -

initial start-up after overhaul

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left in the engine compartment. 2 Remove the spark plugs. On models with a distributor, disable the ignition system by

2C•22 Engine removal and overhaul

19.19 Tap the piston into the bore using a hammer handle

19.22b . . . then through the angle specified for stage 3

19.22a On XU series engines, tighten the big-end bearing cap nuts to the stage 1

specified torque, then fully slacken them

and tighten them to the stage 2 torque . . .

Peugeot 405 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual