Peugeot 405 User Manual

Models covered

Saloon and Estate models with 4-cylinder SOHC and DOHC petrol engines, including Mi-16 and special/limited editions;

1.4 (1360 cc), 1.6 (1580 cc), 1.8 (1761 cc), 1.9 (1905 cc) and 2.0 (1998 cc)

For Diesel engine models, see OWM 3198 Does not cover four-wheel-drive models

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 174 X

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Peugeot 405 (petrol)

Service and Repair Manual

Steve Rendle and A K Legg LAE MIMI

(1559-336)

LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 405

Introduction to the Peugeot 405 Page 0•4 Safety first! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•12 Coolant level Page 0•12 Brake fluid level Page 0•13 Power steering fluid level Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•15 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Battery Page 0•16 Bulbs and fuses Page 0•16

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Peugeot 405 petrol models Page 1•1

Maintenance schedule - models up to 1993 Page 1•3 Maintenance schedule - models from 1994 Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1 XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B•1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - single-point fuel injection models Page 4B•1 Fuel/exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection models Page 4C•1 Emission control systems Page 4D•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A•1 Ignition system Page 5B•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•22

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion factors Page REF•2 Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault finding Page REF•12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

The Peugeot 405 model range was introduced into the UK in

January 1988 in Saloon form only.

Available with 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 and 2.0 engines, all models have front-

wheel-drive with all round independent suspension.

Automatic transmission models were introduced in April 1988.

In July 1988 came the sporty Mi 16 version with its 1.9 litre double overhead cam, 16-valve engine, uprated gearbox, suspension and an ABS braking system to match its power.

Estate car versions were introduced in October 1988.

From 1991, engines equipped with catalytic converters were progressively introduced, to meet the more stringent exhaust gas emission regulations.

Since its introduction, the 405 range has continually been developed. All models have a high trim level, which is very comprehensive in the upper model range.

For the home mechanic, the Peugeot 405 is a straightforward vehicle to maintain and repair since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

Your Peugeot 405 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

0•4 Introduction

Peugeot 405 SRi Saloon Peugeot 405 GL Estate

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with their permission. Special thanks to Gliddons of Taunton who provided several of the project vehicles used in the origination of this manual. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The vehicles used in the preparation of this manual, and which appear in many of the photographic sequences, were a Peugeot 405 GL Saloon, a Peugeot 405 GTX Estate, a Peugeot 405 GR Saloon, and a Peugeot GTX Saloon.

The Peugeot 405 Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Steve Rendle

Andy Legg

Sub-editor Carole Turk Editor & Page Make-up Bob Jex Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

Safety First! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside Repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check that the spark plug HT leads (where applicable) are securely connected by pushing them home.

The throttle potentiometer wiring plug may cause problems if not connected securely.

Check the idle speed stepper motor wiring plug for security.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that the ignition coil wiring plug is secure, and spray with water-dispersant if necessary.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside Repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

In the boot, use the wheel brace to loosen the spare wheel cradle bolt.

0•8 Roadside Repairs

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack.

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. M Make sure that the spare wheel cradle is properly secured, or it could drop onto the road

while driving.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Before raising the car, loosen the wheel bolts slightly using the wheelbrace.

Locate the jack head in the jacking point and use the brace to raise the car until the wheel is clear of the ground.

Temporarily place the spare wheel under the sill as a precaution should the jack topple.

Use the wheel brace to remove the wheel trim.

Remove the spare wheel from the cradle.

Remove the bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and hand-tighten the

bolts. Lower the car, then tighten the wheel bolts firmly. Have the bolts tightened to the correct torque at the earliest opportunity.

Roadside Repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly Checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent.

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

1.6 litre carburettor

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Underbonnet check points

1.6 litre fuel injection

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Weekly Checks 0•11

1.9 litre

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

2.0 litre

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant filler cap

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

0•12 Weekly Checks

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine temperature. When cold, the coolant

level should be on the “MAXI” mark (arrowed). When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the “MAXI” mark.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Unscrew the expansion

tank cap to the first stop, to release any pressure present in the system. Push the cap down, turn to the second stop, and remove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion tank filler neck,

until the coolant level is up to the “MAXI” level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go to secure.

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil (see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured for easy identification (see “Underbonnet check points” on pages 0•10 and 0•11

for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

Weekly Checks 0•13

Brake fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and

pouring it. Warning: Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 On models with ABS (anti-lock brakes),

switch the ignition off and pump the brake pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels hard. Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running. Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the ignition.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be

allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” (A) and “DANGER” (B) marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located in the scuttle at the rear

driver’s side of the engine compartment. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. Check the fluid already in the reservoir - the system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only the

specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Check the operation of the low fluid level warning light. Chock the roadwheels,

release the handbrake, and switch on the ignition. Ask an assistant to press the button on top of the reservoir. The brake fluid level/ handbrake warning light should come on. Apply the handbrake and switch off the ignition

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the car on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The fluid level is visible through the translucent material of the reservoir, and

should be between the maximum (A) and minimum (B) level lines marked on the side of the reservoir.

If topping-up is necessary, and before removing the cap, wipe the area so that

dirt does not enter the reservoir. Unscrew the cap, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the cap as it is removed.

Top-up to the “MAX” mark, using the specified type of fluid. Take great care

not to allow dirt to enter the reservoir, and do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, refit the cap.

0•14 Weekly Checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly Checks 0•15

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course. To remove a front wiper blade, first prise off the securing clips, and disconnect the washer tube from the arm.

Pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through

90°, then pull up the blade securing clip, and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

On Estate models, to remove a tailgate wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from

the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then press the locking tab, and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account

use coolant antifreeze in the washer system

- this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen washer fluid level

On Estate models, the tailgate washer fluid reservoir is located behind a hinged cover on the right-hand side of the

luggage compartment.

The windscreen/headlight washer fluid reservoir is located in the scuttle at the rear right-hand corner of the engine

compartment.

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a

screenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

0•16 Weekly Checks

Bulbs and fuses

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9).

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located behind a panel on the bottom of the driver’s side lower facia panel.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see wiring diagrams in Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps (A) to ensure good electrical

connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Tools for cleaning the battery post and terminals are available.

Note that the battery negative terminal

stud can be removed for cleaning or renewal. Unscrew the lead clamp, then pull off the plastic insulator, and lever off the stud and cover.

Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0•17

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to

20W/50, to API SG/CD or better

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity 75W/80W, to API GL5

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron II type ATF

Tyre pressures

Saloon models Front Rear

165/70 R 14 T tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

175/70 R 14 T tyres:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

185/65 R 14 H tyres

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.1 bars (30 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

195/55 R 15 V tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

Estate models

175/70 R 14 T tyres:

Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

185/65 R 14 H tyres:

Normal load:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.2 bars (32 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.3 bars (33 psi)

Full load:

Manual gearbox models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bars (30 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bars (32 psi) 2.8 bars (41 psi)

Note: Refer to the tyre pressure data label at the bottom of the rear edge of the driver’s door (visible when the door is open) for the correct tyre pressures for your particular vehicle. Pressures apply only to originalequipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Air conditioning refrigerant check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Air filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Body drain channel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Clutch adjustment check and control mechanism lubrication . . . . . .12

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Emissions control systems check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Engine breather hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Front and rear disc pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Pollen filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes . . . . . . . . . .27

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

1•1

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Contents

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to the end of “Weekly checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

TU engine - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

TU engine - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres

XU engine (8-valve) - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

XU engine (8-valve) - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

XU engine (16-valve) - with filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3 litres

XU engine (16-valve) - without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

Cooling system (approximate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission:

Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 litres

After overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litres

Power steering system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres

Engine

Oil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -15°C(-5°F)

50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -30°C(-22°F)

Fuel system

Idle speed:

TU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

XU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpm

XU5 and TU3 single-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

Bosch L3.1 multi-point injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Other multi-point injection systems (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm

Idle mixture CO content:

TU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8%

XU carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5%

XU5 and TU3 single-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 0.5 %

XU5, XU7, XU9, XU10 multi-point injection (not adjustable) . . . . . . . Less than 1.0 %

Air filter element:

TU engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion V401

XU engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U543

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L101, L206, L132 or L135

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

TU and XU carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C9YCC

XU injection 8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C7YCC

XU injection16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7BMC

Spark plug electrode gap*:

8-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

16-valve engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 mm

Ignition HT lead resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Approximately 600 ohms per 100 mm length

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above.

Brakes

Front/rear brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Tyre pressures

See end of “Weekly Checks”.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Manual gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

1•2 Servicing Specifications

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule - models up to 1993 1•3

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Check condition and security of engine breather

hoses (Section 7)

mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 8) mm Check the condition of, and adjust as necessary,

the accelerator cable (Section 9)

mm Check the idle speed and mixture (CO) adjustment.

Clean the fuel filter in the carburettor (where applicable) (Section 10)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 11) mm Check and adjust the clutch pedal travel

(Section 12)

mm Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters

(Section 13)

mm Check front and rear disc brake pads for wear

(Section 14)

mm Check the operation of the handbrake and adjust

as necessary (Section 15)

mm Check the steering and suspension components

(Section 16)

mm Check and unblock all door and sill drain channels.

Also check the heater drain tube (Section 17)

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 4)

mm Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 5)

mm Check all underbonnet components for fluid leaks

(Section 6)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) mm Check and if necessary top-up the manual

transmission oil level (Section 26)

mm Inspect the rear brake drum linings for wear

(Section 27)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 20) mm Renew the air filter element (Section 21) mm Check the ignition system and ignition timing

(Section 22)

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid

(Section 23)

mm Renew the hydraulic fluid in the braking system

(Section 24)

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 18 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 18) mm Check the air conditioning system refrigerant

(Section 19)

The maintenance schedule for models from 1994 is given below. When compared with the schedule for earlier models, it will be seen that although the same operations are required, the frequency with which they are performed has changed considerably. The specified interval for most operations has been extended.

The description of the maintenance tasks in this Chapter follows the schedule prescribed

for earlier models. When the interval for later models varies, this is of course indicated. However, the DIY owner may consider that it is well worth while observing the shorter intervals in any case.

We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and ultimately, the resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, is used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

1•4 Maintenance schedule - models from 1994

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Check the air conditioning system refrigerant

(Section 19)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 11) mm Renew the fuel filter - carburettor models

(Section 8)

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid

(Section 23)

mm Check the ignition system and ignition timing

(Section 22)

mm Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment

(Section 10)

mm Check the emissions control system components

(Section 29)

mm Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 5)

mm Lubricate the clutch control mechanism

(Section 12)

mm Check the condition of the front brake pads

(Section 14)

mm Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 15) mm Carry out a road test (Section 30)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

Note: It is strongly recommended that the engine oil and filter be changed at least every 6 months, even if the mileage specified has not been covered.

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check the clutch adjustment (Section 12) mm Check all underbonnet components for fluid leaks

(Section 6)

mm Check the steering and suspension components

(Section 16)

mm Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters

(Section 13)

mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 4)

mm Renew the pollen filter where fitted (Section 28)

Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) - this is the

interval recommended by Peugeot, but we recommend that the belt is changed more frequently, at 36 000 miles - see above.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

mm Renew the coolant (Section 20) mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 24)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 18) mm Renew the air filter (Section 21) mm Inspect the rear brake drum linings for wear

(Section 27)

mm Check the condition of the rear disc brake pads

(Section 14)

mm Check and if necessary top-up the manual

transmission oil level (Section 26)

mm Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models

(Section 8)

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 25) see Note below.

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 72 000 miles (120 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie. mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

Maintenance & Servicing 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1580 cc carburettor engine

1 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 2 Battery 3 Air filter housing 4 Cold air inlet duct 5 Bonnet lock 6 Bonnet release latch 7 Engine oil filler cap/tube 8 Carburettor air inlet duct

(carburettor below) 9 Radiator (coolant filler) cap 10 Alternator 11 Right-hand engine mounting 12 Timing belt upper cover 13 Right-hand suspension strut

top mounting 14 Windscreen wash reservoir 15 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 16 Camshaft cover 17 Windscreen wiper motor

(beneath cover) 18 Hot air inlet duct 19 Engine oil level dipstick 20 Fuel pump 21 Distributor 22 Spark plug HT leads

Underbonnet view of a 1580 cc fuel injection engine

1 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 2 Valve cover 3 Windscreen wiper motor

(beneath cover) 4 Engine oil level dipstick 5 Hot air duct 6 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 7 Battery 8 Power steering fluid reservoir 9 Air cleaner 10 Engine oil filler cap/tube 11 Radiator (coolant filler) cap 12 Alternator 13 Right-hand engine mounting 14 Windscreen washer reservoir

1•6 Maintenance & Servicing

Underbonnet view of a 1998 cc engine

1 Brake system hydraulic fluid

reservoir 2 Engine oil filler cap 3 Windscreen wiper motor

(below cover) 4 Air cleaner cover 5 Ignition coil 6 Left-hand suspension strut

top mounting 7 Battery 8 Power steering fluid reservoir 9 Inlet air duct 10 Engine oil level dipstick 11 Automatic transmission

kickdown cable 12 Throttle housing 13 Accelerator cable 14 Radiator (coolant filler cap) 15 Auxiliary drivebelt 16 Windscreen washer fluid

reservoir

Underbonnet view of a 1905 cc engine

1 Left-hand strut top mounting 2 Battery 3 Fuel damper 4 Power steering fluid reservoir 5 Air filter cover 6 Fuel injection control unit 7 Thermostat housing 8 Cold air inlet 9 Throttle housing 10 Brake servo vacuum hose 11 Bonnet lock 12 Inlet manifold 13 Bonnet release latch 14 Accelerator cable 15 Radiator (coolant filler cap) 16 Alternator 17 Right-hand engine mounting 18 Fuel injection relay box 19 Right-hand strut top mounting 20 Camshaft drivebelt top cover 21 Fuel pressure regulator 22 Engine oil filler tube 23 Earth lead 24 Windscreen washer reservoir 25 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir 26 Brake servo vacuum unit 27 Windscreen wiper motor 28 Fuel rail and injectors 29 Camshaft cover 30 Power steering hose 31 Engine oil level dipstick 32 Windscreen wiper arm 33 Air inlet grille (ventilation) 34 Distributor

Maintenance & Servicing 1•7

Rear underbody view of a 1905 cc engine model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel tank supporting strap 3 Heat shield 4 Exhaust pipe 5 Rear suspension side member 6 Handbrake cable equaliser

mechanism 7 Rear suspension torsion bar 8 Rear shock absorber 9 Rear disc brake caliper 10 Exhaust rear silencer 11 Spare wheel (cover removed) 12 Spare wheel cradle support

hook 13 Fuel filler hose 14 Rear anti-roll bar 15 Suspension cross-link

Front underbody view of a 1905 cc engine model

1 Fuel lines 2 Front exhaust silencer 3 Brake lines 4 Front subframe rear mounting 5 Steering rack mountings 6 Exhaust downpipe 7 Steering tack rod 8 Lower suspension arm 9 Radiator lower hose 10 Engine oil sump 11 Rear engine mounting 12 Driveshaft intermediate

bearing housing 13 Right-hand driveshaft 14 Oil temperature sensor 15 Engine oil drain plug 16 Radiator 17 Transmission housing 18 Differential housing 19 Cooling fan resistor 20 Horn

Maintenance procedures

1•8 6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

1 Introduction

General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. 3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. 5 The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and

may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (see

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (see

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 5). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 11). e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable (Section 22). f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary

(Section 21). g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 8). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 6). i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable (Section 10).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4). d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable (Chapter 5B). e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable (Section 22).

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months. Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches cab be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer.

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials.

Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point. Where necessary remove the splash guard from under the engine.

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn; on some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug

3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug with a square-section wrench

pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes

Hint) . 4 Recover the sealing ring from the drain

plug. 5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 6 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, then refit and tighten the plug. 7 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter which is located on the front side of the cylinder block, below the inlet manifold. 8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 12 Remove the dipstick then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Weekly checks”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap. 13 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General Repair Procedures” in the Reference section of this manual.

4 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature, then park the vehicle on level ground. The fluid level is checked using the dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment, directly in front of the engine/transmission. The dipstick top is brightly-coloured (usually orange) for easy identification. 2 With the engine idling and the selector lever in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the upper and lower marks (see illustrations).

3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission. Note: Never overfill

the transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper mark.

4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the level again, topping-up if necessary. 5 Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage. 6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before it becomes serious.

5 Auxiliary drivebelt check

and renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km). Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 belt tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the auxiliary drivebelt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service 1•9

4.2a Withdrawing the automatic transmission dipstick

4.2b Automatic transmission fluid dipstick lower (a) and upper (b) fluid level markings

3.8 Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the oil filter

As the engine oil drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest opportunity.

1 Except for XU9J4 16-valve engines, all models are fitted with one auxiliary drivebelt driven from the crankshaft pulley on the righthand side of the engine. On non-air conditioning models the belt drives the alternator and power steering pump and its tension is adjusted manually. On models fitted with air conditioning it drives the alternator, power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor. On XU9J4 models a separate drivebelt drives the power steering pump from a pulley on the end of the camshaft.

Checking the auxiliary drivebelt condition

Except XU9J4 16-valve power steering drivebelt

2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove the engine undercover and wheelarch cover as applicable. 4 Using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the entire length of the drivebelt can be examined. Examine the drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. Renew the belt if worn or damaged. 5 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, on models where the belt is adjusted manually, check the drivebelt tension as described below. On models with an automatic springloaded tensioner, there is no need to check the drivebelt tension.

XU9J4 16-valve power steering drivebelt

6 The power steering drivebelt is positioned

on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Examine the full length of the drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. If necessary turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley or by engaging 4th gear and pushing the car (for safety, the car must be on level ground). Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. 7 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, check the drivebelt tension as described later in this Section.

Auxiliary drivebelt (early models) - removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

8 Loosen the alternator pivot and link bolts,

then unscrew the adjuster bolt to release the drivebelt tension (see illustration). 9 Remove the drivebelt from the alternator, crankshaft and where necessary the power steering pulleys.

Refitting and tensioning

10 Locate the drivebelt on the pulleys making

sure it is correctly engaged with the grooves. 11 The belt tension must be adjusted so that with moderate thumb pressure applied midway along the belt’s longest run, it can be deflected by approximately 6.0 mm. Turn the adjuster bolt in or out to obtain the correct tension, then tighten the pivot and link bolts (see illustration).

Auxiliary drivebelt (models with a manuallyadjusted tensioning pulley) removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

12 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3.

13 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 14 Slacken the tensioner pulley bracket

adjustment/mounting bolts (one located in the middle of the pulley and the other located below on the bracket (see illustration). 15 Fully tighten the adjustment bolt to its stop, then slip the drivebelt from the pulleys

(see illustration).

Refitting

16 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys, and take up the slack in the belt by tightening the adjuster bolt. Ensure that the ribs on the belt are correctly engaged with the grooves in the pulleys. 17 Tension the drivebelt as described in the following paragraphs.

Tensioning

18 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3. 19 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator bearings. 20 The belt should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the midpoint between the pulleys on the longest belt run (see the note at the start of this Section). 21 To adjust, unscrew the adjustment bolt until the tension is correct, then rotate the crankshaft a couple of times, and recheck the tension. Securely tighten the tensioner pulley bracket adjustment/mounting bolts.

22 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 23 Refit the engine undercover and

wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Auxiliary drivebelt (models with an automatic spring-loaded tensioner pulley) removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

24 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3.

25 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 26 Using a square drive key in the square

hole in the bottom of the automatic adjuster bracket, turn the bracket anticlockwise to release the tension on the belt. Hold the bracket in this position by inserting a 4.0 mm

1•10 6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

5.8 Loosening the alternator adjustment bolts (early models)

5.14 Tensioner pulley bracket lower mounting bolt (arrowed)

5.15 Auxiliary drivebelt tension adjustment bolt (arrowed)

5.11 Alternator drivebelt deflection (A)

Allen key through the special hole and tightening the peg. 27 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the tensioner roller, then slip the auxiliary drivebelt from the pulleys. 28 Check that the tensioner pulleys turn freely without any sign of roughness.

Refitting and tensioning

29 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys making sure that it is engaged with the correct grooves in the pulleys. 30 Refit the tensioner roller and tighten the mounting bolts. 31 Using the square drive key hold the automatic adjuster, then release the peg and slowly allow the tensioner to tighten the belt. Check again that the belt is correctly located in the pulley grooves.

32 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 33 Refit the engine undercover and

wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Power steering pump drivebelt (XU9J4 16-valve) models

Removal

34 Drain the hydraulic fluid from the system

as described in Chapter 10. 35 Loosen the pump mounting bolts and remove the drivebelt. 36 Disconnect the high and low pressure unions on the pump.

37 Remove the bolts and lift off the pump.

Refitting and tensioning

38 Refit in reverse order, then tension the

belt by applying a torque of 55 Nm for a new belt and 30 Nm for a used belt by using the square of a torque wrench in the square cutout in the pump bracket, tightening the mounting bolts while the torque tension is maintained (see illustration).

39 Fill and bleed the system (see Chapter 10).

6 Hose and fluid leak check

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water, oil or fuel leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some slight seepage from these areas is to be expected. What you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes, or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen, or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. If the original Peugeot crimpedtype hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with standard wormdrive hose clips.

4 Inspect the cooling system (hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks (see Haynes Hint). 5 Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket, referring to Chapter 3. 6 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 7 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks, and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 8 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck, and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 9 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 10 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service 1•11

5.38 Square cut-out in power steering

pump bracket (a) on XU9J4 16-valve models

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

7 Engine breather hose check

Check the condition and security of all

engine breather hoses.

Where the engine has covered a high mileage, remove the hoses and clean any sludge from them.

8 Fuel filter renewal

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km) for carburettor models, and 36 000 miles (60 000 km) for fuel injection models.

Carburettor models

1 The fuel filter is connected into the fuel hose between the pump and the carburettor in the engine compartment (see illustration). 2 To remove the filter, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. Where the original Peugeot crimped-

Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions in “Safety first!”

and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

type hose clips are fitted, cut them off and discard them; use standard worm-drive hose clips on refitting. 3 Note the direction of the arrow marked on the filter body. Unclip the filter from its retaining bracket, and remove it from the vehicle. 4 Connect the fuel hoses to the new filter. Make sure that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, ie. towards the fuel pump. Secure the hoses in position by securely tightening the retaining clips, then clip the filter back into position in its retaining bracket. 5 At the same time, check the fuel reservoir tank on the side of the carburettor for sediment. Remove the reservoir as necessary for cleaning. 6 The fuel connections on the reservoir are as follows.

a) Top hose - return to tank. b) Middle hose - supply from pump via filter. c) Lower hose - to carburettor inlet.

Fuel injection models

7 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, mounted on the right-hand side of the fuel tank. To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 8 Clamp the fuel hose on the tank side of the filter. Bearing in mind the information given in the relevant Part of Chapter 4 on depressurising the fuel system, release the clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. Be prepared for fuel spillage (see illustration). 9 Note the direction of the arrow marked on the filter body. Slacken the retaining clamp screw, then slide the filter out of the clamp, and remove it from underneath the vehicle. 10 Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly-inflammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 11 Slide the new filter into position in the clamp, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, ie. towards the throttle body/fuel rail. This can be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 12 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter, and secure them in position with their retaining clips. Remove the hose clamp.

13 Start the engine, and check the filter hose connections for leaks. Lower the vehicle to the ground on completion.

9 Accelerator cable check

and adjustment

Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B.

10 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s specified interval for this procedure is 18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture setting, always check the following first:

a) Check that (where adjustable) the ignition

timing is accurate (Chapter 5B).

b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Section 11).

c) Check that the accelerator cable (and on

carburettor models, the choke cable) is correctly adjusted (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure, with no leaks or kinks (Sections 7 and 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 21).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

g) If the engine is running roughly, check the

compression pressures and valve clearances as described in Chapter 2.

h) On fuel injection models, check that the

fuel injection/ignition system warning light is not illuminated (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4).

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient length to warm it up to normal operating temperature. Note: Adjustment should ideally

be completed within two minutes of return, without stopping the engine. If the radiator electric cooling fan operates, wait for the cooling fan to stop. If adjustment takes longer than stated, regularly clear any excess fuel from the inlet manifold by revving the engine two or three times to about 2000 rpm, then allow it to idle again.

Carburettor models

3 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched off, and that the choke lever is pushed fully in. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. Note: Models with air conditioning

have an idle compensation device, and the air conditioning compressor must be running while the idle speed is being checked and adjusted.

4 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, screw in the idle adjusting screw (to increase the speed) or out as necessary to obtain the specified speed. The screw is located on the carburettor on non-air conditioning models, and on the idle compensating device on air conditioning models (see illustrations). 5 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major carburettor overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 6 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment

1•12 12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

8.1 Fuel filter location on carburettor models

10.4a Idle speed adjustment screw

(arrowed) on models with idle compensation

10.4b Idle speed adjustment screw

8.8 Fuel filter on fuel injection models

showing fuel hoses (A) and clamp bolt (B)

screw located on the carburettor. The screw is covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 7 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the mixture adjustment screw by very small amounts until the level is correct (see illustration). Screwing it in (clockwise) weakens the idle mixture and reduces the CO level; screwing it out will richen the mixture and increase the CO level. 8 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Fuel injection models

Bosch L3.1-Jetronic system

9 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched

off. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. 10 The idle speed is adjusted using the idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle housing (see illustration). Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the idle speed, or anticlockwise to increase the speed. 11 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser

(CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out. 12 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw located on the airflow meter (see Chapter 4C). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 13 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the mixture adjustment screw by small amounts until the level is correct (see illustration). 14 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

15 The idle speed is non-adjustable. It is

controlled by the idle speed regulator valve. 16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is set at the factory, and should require no further adjustment. If, due to a change in engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to check the mixture, and to set it with the necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to be carried out.

17 Follow the exhaust gas analyser manufacturer’s instructions to check the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is required, it is made via mixture adjustment screw located on the airflow meter (see illustration). The screw may be covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out the plug. 18 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until the specified CO level is obtained. 19 When adjustments are complete, disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment screw.

Bosch LU2-Jetronic system

20 The idle mixture is not adjustable and is

automatically regulated by the ECU. 21 To check the idle speed connect a tachometer to the engine, then run the engine at idle speed. 22 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to obtain the specified idle speed (see

illustration). 23 When adjustments are complete,

disconnect any test gear from the engine.

Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

24 Ensure that all electrical loads are

switched off. If the car does not have a tachometer, connect one following its manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle speed, and compare it with that specified. 25 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to obtain the specified idle speed (see illustration).

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service 1•13

10.13 Mixture (CO) adjustment screw on the Bosch L3.1 injection control unit

10.25 Idle speed adjustment screw (1) on the Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

10.22 Idle speed adjustment screw (2) on the Bosch LU2-Jetronic injection system

10.17 Mixture (CO) adjustment screw

(arrowed) on Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

10.10 Adjusting the idle speed screw on the Bosch L3.1 injection system

10.7 Idle mixture adjustment screw (arrowed)

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Peugeot 405 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual