Opel Astra User Manual

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Battery check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Brake pad, caliper and disc check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Carburettor fuel inlet filter cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Clutch adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Driveshaft CV joint and gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Fuel pump filter cleaning - carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Headlamp aim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Idle speed and mixture adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Rear brake shoe, wheel cylinder and drum check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Rear wheel bearing adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Roadwheel bolt tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the
manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle
in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your

vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or
driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,
more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory­authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.

1•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable
for competent DIY
mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Contents

1

1 Vauxhall Astra/Belmont maintenance schedule

1•2 Maintenance schedule

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or
6 months, whichever comes first

mm Renew the engine oil and filter - early (pre-1987) models

(Section 6)

Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first

mm Renew the engine oil and filter - later (1987-on) models

(Section 6)

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 7)
mm Check and adjust the valve clearances - 1.2 litre models

(Chapter 2A)

mm Check all underbonnet and underbody components, pipes and

hoses for leaks (Section 8)

mm Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if

necessary (Section 9)

mm Check the ignition system components and renew the contact

breaker points (Section 10)

mm Check idle speed and mixture adjustments (Section 11)
mm Clean the fuel pump filter (carburettor models) (Section 12)
mm Check the throttle cable adjustment (Chapter 4A or 4B)
mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 13)
mm Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the wipers and

washers (Section 14)

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades (Section 15)
mm Check the tightness of the roadwheel bolts (Section 16)
mm Check the condition of the front, and rear (where fitted) brake

pads (renew if necessary), and the calipers and discs
(Section 17)

mm Check the rear wheel bearings adjustment (Section 18)
mm Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 19)
mm Check the driveshaft CV joints and gaiters for condition

(Section 20)

mm Lubricate locks and hinges (Section 21)
mm Check the exhaust system for condition and security

(Section 22)

mm Road test the vehicle (Section 23)

Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage)

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the
following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 32)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years, whichever comes first

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the
following:

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 33)
mm Renew the camshaft toothed belt -

1.3, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve engines (Chapter 2B),

2.0 litre 16-valve engines (Chapter 2C)

Every 54 000 miles (90 000 km) or
3 years, whichever comes first

In addition to all the relevant items listed previously, carry out the
following:

mm Renew the braking system seals and hose (Chapter 9)

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first

In addition to all the items listed previously, carry out the following:

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 24)
mm Renew the fuel filter (fuel injection models) (Section 25)
mm Clean the carburettor fuel inlet filter (Section 26)
mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 27)
mm Check the clutch adjustment (Section 28)
mm Check the condition of the rear brake shoes (renew if

necessary), wheel cylinders and drums (Section 29)

mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 30)
mm Check the headlamp alignment (Section 31)

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm See Weekly checks

Maintenance - component location 1•3

1

1 Wiper motor
2 Heater blower motor
3 Heater blower motor resistor
4 Windscreen washer tube
5 Screen washer reservoir
6 Suspension turrets
7 Coolant expansion tank
8 Ignition coil
9 Battery
10 Coolant hose

11 Radiator cooling fan
12 Distributor cover
13 Engine oil filler
14 Bonnet catch
15 Radiator
16 VIN plate
17 Engine breather
18 Air cleaner hot air pick-up
19 Thermostat housing
20 Fuel hoses

21 Fuel pump
22 Alternator
23 Accelerator cable
24 Carburettor
25 Choke cable
26 Servo non-return valve
27 Steering rack bellows
28 Air cleaner breather hose
29 Brake fluid reservoir
30 Brake servo

Underbonnet view of an early 1.6 litre model (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1•4 Maintenance - component location

1 Screen washer reservoir
2 Headlamp washer filler cap
3 Headlamp washer relay and fuse
4 Suspension turrets
5 Coolant expansion tank filler
6 Control relay (fuel injection system)
7 Ignition coil
8 Horn
9 Battery
10 Coolant hose

11 Radiator fan
12 Distributor
13 Engine oil filler
14 Bonnet catch
15 Radiator
16 VIN plate
17 Engine breather
18 Thermostat housing
19 Air cleaner
20 Airflow meter

21 Breather hose
22 Throttle valve housing
23 Fuel rail
24 Fuel pressure regulator
25 Servo non return valve
26 Steering rack bellows
27 Accelerator cable
28 Brake fluid reservoir
29 Brake servo

Underbonnet view of an early 1.8 litre model

Maintenance - component location 1•5

1

1 Radiator top hose
2 Air cleaner
3 Suspension turrets
4 Coolant filler cap
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Air mass meter
7 Fuel pressure regulator
8 Breather hoses
9 Throttle cable

10 Engine oil filler cap
11 Pre-volume chamber
12 Brake servo non-return valve
13 Power steering hoses
14 Windscreen washer reservoir
15 Headlamp washer relay
16 ABS hydraulic unit
17 ABS surge arrester relay

18 Fuel injection control relay
19 Ignition coil
20 Battery
21 Power steering fluid reservoir
22 Distributor
23 Radiator
24 Vehicle identification plate
25 Horn

Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre 16-valve model

1•6 Maintenance - component location

1 Control arm rear bush
2 Control arm
3 Anti-roll bar link
4 Driveshaft damper weight
5 Engine oil filter
6 Oil cooler hose
7 Air induction trunking

8 Radiator
9 Exhaust downpipes
10 Sump drain plug
11 Radiator fan
12 Gearbox sump
13 Driveshaft bellows
14 Brake hose

15 Steering balljoint attachment
16 Engine/transmission rear mounting
17 Gearchange tube
18 Exhaust pipe
19 Brake pipe
20 Brake and fuel pipes

Front underbody view of a 1.8 litre model - other models similar

Maintenance - introduction 1•7

1

1 Centre silencer
2 Handbrake adjuster
3 Handbrake cables
4 Fuel tank
5 Brake pipe
6 Brake and fuel pipes
7 Brake hoses
8 Axle beam
9 Axle mountings
10 Spring
11 Shock absorber mounting
12 Fuel filler pipe
13 Fuel gauge sender/fuel tank outlet
14 Fuel tank breather
15 Fuel filter*
16 Fuel pressure regulator*
17 Fuel pump*
18 Towing eye
19 Rear silencer
20 Rear brake pipes
*Fuel injection models only

Rear underbody view of a 1.8 litre model -

other models similar

General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by sections
dealing specifically with each task on the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.

Servicing of your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some

items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can ­and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.

The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.

Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid

levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (Chapter 2) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If for
example a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine, and may prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work
(Chapter 2) is carried out first.

2 Introduction

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most

important preventative maintenance
procedures which can be undertaken by the
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain more easily, and more built-up
sludge will be removed with it. Take care not
to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of
the engine when working under the vehicle.
To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work. Access to the
underside of the vehicle will be greatly
improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven

onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”). Whichever method is chosen,
make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if
it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the
lowest point. The drain plug is located at the
rear of the sump.
3 Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover (twist it through a quarter-turn anti­clockwise and withdraw it).
4 Using a spanner, or preferably a socket and
bar, slacken the drain plug about half a turn
(see illustration). Position the draining
container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the
plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it
by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases from the threads, move it away
sharply, so that the stream of oil from the sump
runs into the container, not up your sleeve!
5 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting
that it may be necessary to reposition the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
6 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain
plug and the sealing washer with a clean rag.
Examine the condition of the sealing washer,

and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or
other damage which may prevent an oil-tight
seal. Clean the area around the drain plug
opening, and refit the plug complete with the
washer. Tighten the plug securely, preferably to
the specified torque, using a torque wrench.
7 The oil filter is located at the right-hand end
of the engine.
8 Move the container into position under the
oil filter.
9 Use an oil filter removal tool to slacken the
filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest
of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil
from the old filter into the container.
10 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
11 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw
the filter into position on the engine. Tighten the
filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
12 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle then, if applicable, lower the
vehicle to the ground.
13 Fill the engine through the filler hole in the
camshaft cover, using the correct grade and
type of oil (refer to Section 3 for details of
topping-up). Pour in half the specified quantity
of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil
to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a
small quantity at a time, until the level is up to
the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding a
further 1.0 litre (approx.) will bring the level up
to the upper mark on the dipstick.
14 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil
filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that
there may be a delay of a few seconds before
the low oil pressure warning light goes out when

6 Engine oil and filter renewal

1•8 Maintenance procedures

6.4 Removing the sump drain plug 6.9 Using an oil filter removal tool to
unscrew the oil filter

Every 250 miles or weekly

The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery

(Section 4).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids

(Section 3).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7).
e) Inspect the ignition system components

(Section 10).
f)| Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 10).
g) Check the condition of the air filter, and

renew if necessary (Section 24).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 8).

If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:

Secondary operations

All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A or 4B).
c) Renew the air filter (Section 24).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 10).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 10).

See “Weekly checks” See “Weekly checks” See “Weekly checks”

5 Tyre checks4 Battery check3 Fluid level checks

Every 9000 miles

the engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the new oil filter and the engine oil
galleries before the pressure builds up.
15 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes
for the oil to settle in the sump once more.
With the new oil circulated and the filter now
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”.

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine, the suitable
type being specified at the end of this
Chapter. If the correct type of plug is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled renewal intervals, except for
adjustment of their gaps. Spark plug cleaning
is rarely necessary, and should not be
attempted unless specialised equipment is
available, as damage can easily be caused to
the firing ends.
2 To remove the plugs, first open the bonnet.
On 1.2 litre models remove the air cleaner as
described in Chapter 4A. On 2.0 litre 16-valve
engines undo the retaining screws and remove
the spark plug lead cover from the engine.
3 Mark the HT leads 1 to 4, to correspond to
the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is
nearest the timing belt end of the engine). Pull
the HT leads from the plugs by gripping the
end connectors, not the leads, otherwise the
lead connections may be fractured.

4 It is advisable to remove any dirt from the
spark plug recesses using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air, before
removing the plugs, to prevent the dirt
dropping into the cylinders.
5 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug
spanner, a suitable box spanner, or a deep
socket and extension bar (see illustration).
Keep the socket in alignment with the spark
plugs, otherwise if it is forcibly moved to either
side, the porcelain top of the spark plug may
be broken off. As each plug is removed,
examine it as follows.
6 Examination of the spark plugs will give a
good indication of the condition of the engine.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and white, with no deposits, this is indicative
of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
while a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
7 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the idle mixture is too rich.
Should the plug be black and oily, then it is
likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as
the mixture being too rich.
8 If the insulator nose is covered with light­tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the
mixture is correct and it is likely that the
engine is in good condition.
9 The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance as, if it is too large or too small,
the size of the spark and its efficiency will be
seriously impaired. For the best results, the
spark plug gap should be set in accordance
with the Specifications at the end of this
Chapter.

10 To set the spark plug gap, measure the
gap between the electrodes with a feeler
blade, and then bend open, or close, the outer
plug electrode until the correct gap is
achieved (see illustrations). The centre
electrode should never be bent, as this may
crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if
nothing worse.
11 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops (see illustration).
12 Before fitting the new spark plugs, check
that the threaded connector sleeves on the
top of the plug are tight, and that the plug
exterior surfaces and threads are clean.
13 Screw in the spark plugs by hand where
possible, then tighten them to the specified
torque. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
light alloy construction.

14 Reconnect the HT leads in their correct
order. On 1.2 litre models refit the air cleaner
(Chapter 4A) and on 2.0 litre 16-valve models,
refit the spark plug lead cover.

7 Spark plug renewal

Every 9000 miles 1•9

1

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this
number free.

7.10a Measuring a spark plug electrode
gap using a feeler blade

7.5 Removing a spark plug - 1.6 litre
engine shown

7.10b Measuring a spark plug electrode
gap using a wire gauge

7.11 Adjusting a spark plug electrode gap
using a special tool

It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross­threading them. To avoid this, fit a short
length of 5/16-inch internal diameter
hose over the end of the spark plug. The
flexible hose acts as a universal joint to
help align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread,
the hose will slip on the spark plug,
preventing thread damage to the
aluminium cylinder head.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected;
what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
manual.
2 Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in
place, and in good condition. Clips which are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
hoses pipes or wiring, which could cause
more serious problems in the future.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks. If wire-type hose clips are used,
it may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. Where any
problems of this nature are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
with reference to Chapter 3.

5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.

7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8 From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9 Where applicable, check the condition of
the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

Alternator drivebelt

Checking and adjustment

1 Correct tensioning of the auxiliary drivebelt

will ensure that it has a long life. Beware,
however, of overtightening, as this can cause
excessive wear in the alternator.
2 The belt should be inspected along its
entire length, and if it is found to be worn,
frayed or cracked, it should be renewed as a
precaution against breakage in service. It is
advisable to carry a spare drivebelt of the
correct type in the vehicle at all times.
3 Although special tools are available for
measuring the belt tension, a good
approximation can be achieved if the belt is
tensioned so that there is approximately 13 mm
of free movement under firm thumb pressure at
the mid-point of the longest run between
pulleys. If in doubt, err on the slack side, as an
excessively-tight belt may cause damage to
the alternator or other components.
4 If adjustment is required, loosen the
alternator upper mounting nut and bolt - use
two spanners, one to counterhold the bolt.
Lever the alternator away from the engine
using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket
until the correct tension is achieved, then
tighten the bolt securing the adjuster bracket,
and the alternator mounting nuts and bolts.
On no account lever at the free end of the
alternator, as serious internal damage could
be caused to the alternator.

Removal, renewal and refitting

5 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

mounting nuts and bolts, and the bolt
securing the adjuster bracket, as described
previously, and slacken the belt sufficiently to
slip it from the pulleys. On models with power
steering it will first be necessary to remove the
power steering pump drivebelt as described
below.
6 Refit the belt, and tension it as described
previously. Note that when a new belt has
been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to

start with and the tension should be
rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after
about 5 minutes running.

Power steering pump drivebelt

Checking and adjustment

7 Refer to the information given in paragraphs 1

to 3, noting that there should be
approximately 8 mm of free movement in the
belt.
8 If adjustment is required, slacken the
adjuster bolt locknut (situated on the base of
the pump) and rotate the adjuster nut as
necessary to tension the belt. Once the belt
tension is correct, securely tighten the
locknut.

Removal, renewal and refitting

9 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

locknut and fully slacken the adjuster nut
sufficiently to slip the drivebelt from the
pulleys.
10 Refit the belt, and tension it as described
previously. Note that when a new belt has
been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to
start with and the tension should be
rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after
about 5 minutes running.

Alternator/power steering pump
drivebelt - later 1.6 litre models

Checking and adjustment

11 From March 1987 onwards, a single

drivebelt is used for the alternator and power
steering pump on 1.6 litre engines. The
drivebelt is of the ribbed type and runs at a
higher tension than the previous (V) belt.
12 To set the tension accurately, make up or
obtain an adapter as shown (see illustration).
13 Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting
strap bolts and fit the adapter. Using a torque
wrench apply a load of 55 Nm (40 lbf ft) for a
new belt, or 50 Nm (37 lbf ft) for an old belt.
Keep the tension applied and securely tighten
the alternator bolts.

Removal, renewal and refitting

14 To remove the belt, simply loosen the

alternator pivot and strap bolts and slip the
drivebelt from the pulleys.

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

8 Hose and fluid leak check

1•10 Every 9000 miles

9.12 Adapter KM-612 used for setting

drivebelt tension on later 1.6 litre models

A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

15 Refit the belt, and tension it as described
previously. Note that when a new belt has
been fitted it will probably stretch slightly to
start with and the tension should be
rechecked, and if necessary adjusted, after
about 5 minutes running.

Models with contact breaker
ignition system

1 Renew the contact breaker points and
adjust the gap and dwell angle as described in
Chapter 5B. After adjustment put one or two
drops of engine oil into the centre of the cam
recess where appropriate and smear the
surfaces of the cam itself with petroleum jelly.
Do not over-lubricate as any excess could get
onto the contact point surfaces and cause
ignition difficulties.
2 The spark plug (HT) leads should also be
checked.
3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before
removing them, if not make identification
marks to avoid confusion when refitting. Pull
the leads from the plugs by gripping the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead
connection may be fractured.
4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of
corrosion, which will look like a white crusty
powder. Push the end fitting back onto the
spark plug ensuring that it is a tight fit on the
plug. If not, remove the lead again and use
pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector
inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end of the spark plug.
5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove any built-up dirt and
grease. Once the lead is clean, check for
burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend
the lead excessively or pull the lead
lengthwise - the conductor inside might
break.
6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from
the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end
fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same manner as the spark plug end. If an
ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of
the lead by connecting the meter between the
spark plug end of the lead and the segment
inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead
securely on completion.
7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
the same way.
8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,
purchase a set for your specific car and
engine.
9 Remove the distributor cap, wipe it clean
and carefully inspect it inside and out for signs
of cracks, carbon tracks (tracking) and worn,
burned or loose contacts; check that the
cap’s carbon brush is unworn, free to move
against spring pressure and making good
contact with the rotor arm. Also inspect the
cap seal for signs of wear or damage and

renew if necessary. Remove and inspect the
rotor arm (see illustrations). It is common
practice to renew the cap and rotor arm
whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are fitted.
When fitting a new cap, remove the leads
from the old cap one at a time and fit them to
the new cap in the exact same location - do
not simultaneously remove all the leads from
the old cap or firing order confusion may
occur. On refitting ensure that the arm is
securely pressed onto the shaft and the cap is
securely fitted.
10 Even with the ignition system in first class
condition, some engines may still occasionally
experience poor starting attributable to damp
ignition components. To disperse moisture a
moister dispersant aerosal can be very
effective.

Models with an electronic ignition
system

11 Check the condition of the HT leads and
distributor components as described above in
paragraphs 3 to 10.

12 Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5C).

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture

setting, always check first the following.

a) Check that the ignition timing is accurate

(Chapter 5B or 5C).

b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Section

25).

c) Check that the accelerator cable and, on

carburettor models, the choke cable

(where fitted) is correctly adjusted (see
relevant Part of Chapter 4).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure with no leaks or kinks (Chapter

2).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 31).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (see relevant Part of Chapter 4).

g) If the engine is running very roughly,

check the compression pressures as
described in Chapter 2.

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient
length to warm it up to normal operating
temperature. Proceed as described under the
relevant sub-heading.

Note: Adjustment should be completed within
two minutes of return, without stopping the
engine. If this cannot be achieved, or if the
radiator electric cooling fan operates, wait for
the cooling fan to stop and clear any excess
fuel from the inlet manifold by racing the
engine two or three times to between 2000
and 3000 rpm, then allow it to idle again.

Carburettor models

3 Connect a tachometer in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions.
4 If the idle speed is outside the specified
tolerance (see Specifications), turn the
adjustment screw as necessary (see
illustrations). This will not alter the CO
content of the exhaust gas to any extent.
5 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
check the exhaust gas CO content as follows.

11 Idle speed and mixture

adjustments

10 Ignition system check

Every 9000 miles 1•11

1

10.9b . . . and pull off the rotor arm from

the distributor shaft (1.6 litre model shown)

11.4a Idle speed adjustment screw
(arrowed) - 32TL carburettor

10.9a Remove the distributor cap . . .

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those

produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with the
ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.

6 Remove the tamperproof cap (where fitted)
from the mixture adjustment screw. Satisfy
yourself that you are not breaking any local or
national laws by so doing.
7 With the engine at normal operating
temperature, check the CO content of the
exhaust gas. If it is outside the permitted
tolerance, turn the mixture adjusting screw as
necessary to correct it (see illustrations).
8 When the adjustments are correct, fit a new
tamperproof cap to the screw and disconnect
the tachometer. Note: On 32TL and Varajet II

carburettors, if it proves difficult to adjust the
idle speed and/or mixture setting then it is
likely that the base idle speed is incorrect.
Setting of this requires the use of an accurate
vacuum gauge and should therefore be
entrusted to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.

Fuel-injected models

1.8 litre models

9 With the engine at normal operating

temperature, connect a tachometer in
accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions.
10 Allow the engine to idle, and compare the
idle speed with that given in the
Specifications. If adjustment is necessary,
slacken the locknut and turn the idle speed
adjusting screw until the specified speed is
obtained. The adjusting screw is situated on
the throttle valve housing. Tighten the locknut
on completion.
11 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
check the mixture (CO level) as follows.
12 With the engine idling at the specified
speed, read the CO level and compare it with
that specified.

13 If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof cap from the mixture adjusting
screw on the airflow sensor (see illustration).
Turn the screw clockwise to enrich the
mixture, and anti-clockwise to weaken it.
14 On completion, re-adjust the idle speed if
necessary. Note that failure to bring the CO
level within the specified range indicates a
fault in the injection system, or a worn engine.

2.0 litre models

15 On all models the idle speed is

automatically controlled by the electronic
control unit and is not adjustable. If it is found
to be incorrect then a fault is present in the
fuel injection/ignition system (Chapter 4B).
16 On models without a catalytic converter,
the mixture (CO level) can be adjusted as
described above in paragraphs 9 and 11 to

14. On 16-valve models the adjusting screw is
on the air mass meter (see illustration).

1•12 Every 9000 miles

11.7d Mixture (CO) adjustment screw (B) ­1B1 carburettor

11.13 On 1.8 litre fuel-injected models the

mixture adjustment screw is located under

the cap on the airflow sensor

11.7c Adjusting the mixture (CO) setting ­Varajet carburettor

11.7a Mixture (CO) adjustment screw ­32TL carburettor

11.7b Mixture (CO) adjustment screw cap
(arrowed) 2E3 carburettor

11.4e Idle adjustment points - 35PDSI
carburettor

1 Distributor vacuum take-off
2 Idle speed adjustment screw
3 Mixture (CO level) adjustment screw

11.4b Idle speed adjustment screw
(arrowed) - 2E3 carburettor

11.4c Adjusting the idle speed - Varajet
carburettor

11.4d Idle speed adjusting screw (A) - 1B1
carburettor

17 On models fitted with a catalytic

converter, the mixture (CO level) is also
automatically controlled by the electronic
control unit and is not adjustable. If it is found
to be incorrect then a fault is present in the
fuel injection/ignition system (Chapter 4B).

1.4 and 1.6 litre models

18 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models both the idle

speed and mixture CO content are
automatically controlled by the control unit
and cannot be manually adjusted (See
Chapter 4B). If necessary, they can be
checked by if they are found to be incorrect
then a fault is present in the fuel
injection/ignition system.

Note: On some models the fuel pump may be
a sealed unit, in which case this procedure is
not necessary.

1 Place a wad of rag underneath the fuel
pump to catch the fuel which will be spilt
during the following operation.
2 Undo the retaining screw and remove the
end cover from the fuel pump. Recover the
rubber seal (see illustration).

3 Remove the filter from the cover and wash
it fresh fuel to remove any debris from it.
Inspect the filter for signs of clogging or
splitting and renew it if necessary.
4 Locate the filter in the cover and fit the
rubber seal.
5 Refit the cover to the pump and securely
tighten its retaining screw.
6 Start the engine and check for signs of fuel
leakage.

1 To check the fluid level, the vehicle must be
parked on level ground. Apply the handbrake.
2 If the transmission fluid is cold (ie, if the
engine is cold), the level check must be
completed with the engine idling, within one
minute of the engine being started.
3 With the engine idling, fully depress the
brake pedal, and move the gear selector lever
smoothly through all positions, finishing in
position “P”.
4 With the engine still idling, withdraw the
transmission fluid level dipstick (located at the
left-hand side of the engine compartment,
next to the engine oil level dipstick). Pull up
the lever on the top of the dipstick to release it
from the tube. Wipe the dipstick clean with a
lint-free rag, re-insert it and withdraw it again.
5 If the transmission fluid was cold at the
beginning of the procedure, the fluid level
should be on the “MAX” mark on the side of
the dipstick marked “+20ºC”. Note that 0.4
litres of fluid is required to raise the level from
the “MIN” to the “MAX” mark.
6 If the transmission fluid was at operating
temperature at the beginning of the procedure
(ie, if the vehicle had been driven for at least
12 miles/20 km), the fluid level should be
between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the
side of the dipstick marked “+94ºC”. Note
that 0.2 litres of fluid is required to raise the
level from the “MIN” to the “MAX” mark.
7 If topping-up is necessary, stop the engine,
and top-up with the specified type of fluid
through the transmission dipstick tube.
8 Re-check the level, and refit the dipstick on
completion.

1 Check the operation of all the electrical
equipment, ie lights, direction indicators,
horn, etc. Refer to the appropriate sections of
Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are
found to be inoperative.
2 Note that stop-light switch adjustment is
described in Chapter 9.
3 Check all accessible wiring connectors,
harnesses and retaining clips for security, and
for signs of chafing or damage. Rectify any
faults found.

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If
they are cracked, or show any signs of
deterioration, or if they fail to clean the glass
effectively, renew the blades. Ideally, the
wiper blades should be renewed annually as a
matter of course.

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm away
from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade
through 90º, then squeeze the locking clip,
and detach the blade from the arm. When
fitting the new blade, make sure that the blade
locks securely into the arm, and that the blade
is orientated correctly.

Using a torque wrench on each wheel bolt
in turn, ensure that the bolts are tightened to
the specified torque.

Front brakes

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support securely on axle
stands; remove the roadwheels (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support “).
2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on each pad can be
measured through the slot in the front of the
caliper body (see illustration). If any pad is
worn to the minimum thickness or less, all
four pads must be renewed (see Chapter 9).
3 For a complete check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. This will allow
the operation of the caliper to be checked, and
the condition of the brake disc itself to be fully
examined on both sides (see Chapter 9).

Rear brakes

4 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands; remove the roadwheels (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support “). Inspect the
pads as described in paragraphs 2 and 3.

17 Brake pad, caliper and disc

check

16 Roadwheel bolt tightness

check

15 Wiper blade check

14 Electrical system check

13 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

12 Fuel pump filter cleaning -

carburettor models

Every 9000 miles 1•13

1

12.2 Removing the fuel pump cover, filter
and rubber seal - carburettor models

17.2 The thickness of the brake pads are
visible through the caliper aperture

11.16 Adjusting the mixture (CO) setting -

2.0 litre 16-valve models

Warning: Before carrying out
the following operation refer to
the precautions given in Safety

first! and follow them implicitly.
Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile
liquid and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed

Refer to Chapter 10, Section 9.

Rear drum brake models

1 Normal adjustment of the handbrake takes
place automatically due to the self-adjusting
mechanism of the rear brakes. To
compensate for cable stretch, or after a new
cable has been fitted or the adjustment has
otherwise been disturbed, proceed as follows.
2 Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and raise and support the rear of
the vehicle so that the rear wheels are clear of
the ground.
3 Tighten the nut on the handbrake cable
yoke until the rear wheels start to become stiff
to turn, then back it off until they are free
again (see illustration).
4 Check that the handbrake starts to take
effect at the second notch of lever movement,
and is fully applied by the fourth or fifth notch.
5 A further check may be made by removing
the plug in the brake backplate (see
illustration). When adjustment is correct, the
pin on the handbrake operating lever is clear

of the shoe web by approximately 3 mm with
the handbrake released.
6 When adjustment is correct, apply a smear
of grease to the threads of the cable end
fitting to prevent corrosion. Lower the vehicle,
apply the handbrake and remove the wheel
chocks.

Rear disc brake models

7 Before checking handbrake adjustment,
drive for approximately 300 metres at low
speed with the handbrake lightly applied. This
will clean off any rust or glaze from the drums
and shoes.
8 Chock the front wheels and engage a gear.
Slacken the rear wheel bolts. Raise and
support the rear of the vehicle and remove the
rear wheels.
9 Release the handbrake, then reapply it by
two notches.
10 Slacken off the adjuster nut on the
handbrake cable yoke (located to the left of
the silencer) until it is at the end of its travel. If
a silencer heat shield is fitted, access will be
improved by removing it.
11 Turn a brake disc to bring the adjuster
hole (the large unthreaded hole) into line with
the adjuster at the bottom of the brake shoes.
Using a screwdriver through the hole, turn the
adjuster wheel until the shoes are against the
disc, then back it off again until the disc is just
free to turn without the shoes dragging (see

illustrations).

12 Repeat the operation on the other brake.
13 Tighten the cable adjuster nut until the

shoes start to drag again. This should happen
on both sides.
14 Release and fully reapply the handbrake a
couple of times. Check that the discs turn
freely when the control is fully released, and
that the brake is fully applied at the sixth
notch.
15 Refit the exhaust heat shield if it was
removed. Refit the wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel bolts.

Refer to Chapter 8, Section 5.

Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors
and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil.
Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock
strikers. At the same time, check the security
and operation of all the locks, adjusting them
if necessary (see Chapter 11).

Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.

1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after
the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system from the engine to
the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is
most easily checked with the vehicle raised on
a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). so that
the exhaust components are readily visible
and accessible.
2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections
for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
mountings are in good condition, and that all
relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Reputable exhaust
repair systems can be used for effective
repairs to exhaust pipes and silencer boxes,
including ends and bends. Check for an MOT­approved permanent exhaust repair.
3 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
brackets and mountings. Try to move the
pipes and silencers. If the components are
able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new
mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if
possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to
provide additional clearance.

22 Exhaust system check

21 Hinge and lock lubrication

20 Driveshaft CV joint and gaiter

check

19 Handbrake adjustment

18 Rear wheel bearing

adjustment

1•14 Every 9000 miles

19.5 Check the handbrake lever pin
(arrowed) is correctly positioned as

described in text

19.3 Handbrake cable adjusting nut

(arrowed) on yoke - rear drum brake

models

19.11a On models with rear disc brakes
the handbrake shoe adjuster wheel is

accessible through the hole in the disc . . .

19.11b . . . and can be adjusted using a
suitable screwdriver

Instruments and electrical
equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch (where applicable), gearbox/
transmission and driveshafts.

7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10 On manual gearbox models, check that all
gears can be engaged smoothly without
noise, and that the gear lever action is not
abnormally vague or “notchy”.
11 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly,
without snatching, and without an increase in
engine speed between changes. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Vauxhall/Opel dealer.
12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
14 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
15 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed,
then start the engine. As the engine starts,
there should be a noticeable “give” in the
brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the
engine to run for at least two minutes, and
then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
depressed now, it should be possible to
detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is
depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
harder.

23 Road test

Carburettor models

1 To remove the air cleaner element, remove
the air cleaner cover. This is secured by a
centre nut or bolt, or by three screws.
Additionally, release the spring clips around
the edge of the cover or, if spring clips are not
fitted, carefully prise around the lower edge of
the cover with your fingers to release the
retaining lugs (see illustrations).

2 With the cover removed, lift out the element
(see illustrations).
3 Wipe inside the air cleaner, being careful

not to introduce dirt into the carburettor
throat. It is preferable to remove the air
cleaner completely. Remember to clean the
inside of the air cleaner cover.
4 Fit the new element, then refit and secure
the cover. Observe any cover-to-body
alignment lugs or slots.

Fuel injection models

1.4 and 1.6 litre models

5 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 4.

1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve models

6 The air cleaner on these models is

contained within the airflow sensor housing.

24 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

Every 18 000 miles 1•15

1

24.1a On carburettor models, undo the

retaining nut (on some models the lid will

be retained by screws) . . .

24.1b . . . and release the retaining
clips . . .

24.2b . . . and withdraw the filter element24.2a . . . then lift off the air cleaner lid . . .

Every 18 000 miles

7 Release the locking clip, and disconnect
the plug from the airflow sensor (see
illustration). Disconnect the air trunking.
8 Release the spring clips, and lift off the air

cleaner cover with airflow sensor attached.
The element will probably come away with the
cover (see illustrations). Do not drop or jar
the airflow sensor.
9 Wipe clean the inside of the air cleaner an
fit a new element to the cover, engaging the
element seal in the cover recess (see
illustration). Refit and secure the cover, then
reconnect the airflow sensor plug. Refit the air
trunking.

2.0 litre 16-valve models

10 Disconnect the trunking which connects

the air cleaner to the mass meter (see
illustration).
11 Release the four spring clips which secure

the air cleaner lid. Remove the lid.
12 Remove the element and wipe clean the
inside of the filter housing and lid.

13 Fit a new element, sealing lip uppermost
(see illustration). Refit and secure the lid and

trunking.

1 The fuel filter is located under the rear of the
vehicle. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support“).
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead and
position a suitable container below the fuel
filter, to catch spilt fuel.
3 Slacken the retaining clips and, bearing in
mind the information given in Chapter 4B on
depressurising the fuel system, disconnect
both hoses. To minimise fuel loss clamp the
hoses either side of the filter or be prepared to

plug the hose ends as they are disconnected

(see illustration).
4 Loosen the clamp bolt, and withdraw the

filter from its clamp. Note the orientation of
the fuel flow direction indicator on the filter.
This will be in the form of an arrow which
points in the direction of the fuel flow, or the
filter will have AUS (out) stamped on its outlet
side (see illustration).
5 Recover the mounting rubber from the old
filter, and transfer it to the new filter.
6 Fit the new filter making sure its fuel flow
direction indicator is facing the right way.
7 Reconnect the hose and securely tighten
their retaining clips.
8 Start the engine and check the disturbed
hose connections for signs of leakage.

25 Fuel filter renewal - fuel

injection models

1•16 Every 18 000 miles

24.8b . . . and remove the air cleaner

housing cover, complete with the filter

element

24.8a . . . then release the retaining
clips . . .

24.7 On 1.8 and 2.0 litre 8-valve models,
disconnect the airflow sensor wiring

connector . . .

24.13 Fitting a new air cleaner element -

2.0 litre 16-valve models

25.4 Fuel filter directional marking25.3 Fuel filter showing mounting and

hose connections

24.10 Disconnecting the trunking from the
air cleaner - 2.0 litre 16-valve models

24.9 On fitting, ensure the element is
correctly seated in the cover groove

Warning: Before carrying out
the following operation refer to
the precautions given in Safety

first! and follow them implicitly.
Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile
liquid and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed.

Referring to the relevant Section of Chapter
4A, remove the filter, wash it fresh fuel to
remove any debris from it. Inspect the filter for
signs of clogging or splitting and renew it if
necessary. Refit the filter and reconnect the
fuel hose.

1 Ensure that the vehicle is standing on level
ground and the handbrake applied.
2 Working underneath the vehicle, unscrew
the transmission oil level plug (see
illustration). The level plug is located beside
the driveshaft inner CV joint; on 1.2, 1.3, 1.4
and later 1.6 litre models the plug is on the
left-hand side of the transmission, and on all
other models it is on the right-hand side.
3 The oil level should be up to the lower edge
of the level plug hole.
4 If necessary, top-up with oil through the
breather/filler orifice in the gear selector
cover. Unscrew the breather/filler plug, and
top-up with the specified grade of oil, until oil
just begins to run from the level plug hole. A
funnel may be helpful, to avoid spillage (see
illustrations). Do not overfill - if too much oil
is added, wait until the excess has run out of
the level plug hole. Refit the level plug and the
breather/filler plug on completion.

Refer to Chapter 6

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support it securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle

Support”).

2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on one of the brake shoes
can be observed through the hole in the brake
backplate which is exposed by prising out the
sealing grommet (see illustration). If a rod of
the same diameter as the specified minimum
friction material thickness is placed against
the shoe friction material, the amount of wear
can be assessed. A torch or inspection light

will probably be required. If the friction
material on any shoe is worn down to the
specified minimum thickness or less, all four
shoes must be renewed as a set.
3 For a comprehensive check, the brake
drum should be removed and cleaned. This
will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked,
and the condition of the brake drum itself to
be fully examined (see Chapter 9).

1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
using a clean poultry baster or similar before
starting, and allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the `MAX’

level with new fluid and continue pumping
until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir
and new fluid can be seen emerging from the
bleed screw. Tighten the screw and top the
reservoir level up to the `MAX’ level line.

3 Work through all the remaining bleed screws
in sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of
them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder
reservoir topped up to above the `MIN’ level at
all times or air may enter the system and
greatly increase the length of the task.
4 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
5 Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the car on the road.

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
carried out by a Vauxhall/Opel dealer or
service station with the necessary facilities.

Basic adjustments can be carried out in an
emergency, and further details are given in
Chapter 12.

31 Headlamp aim check

30 Brake fluid renewal

29 Rear brake shoe, wheel

cylinder and drum check

28 Clutch adjustment check

27 Manual transmission oil level

check

26 Carburettor fuel inlet filter

cleaning

Every 18 000 miles 1•17

1

Warning: Before carrying out the
following operation refer to the
precautions given in Safety first!

and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.

29.2 Removing the sealing grommet from
the inspection hole in the rear brake

backplate

27.4a To top up, unscrew the

breather/filler plug from the top of the

transmission . . .

27.2 Removing the manual transmission
level plug - early 1.6 litre model shown

27.4b . . . then top up via the breather/filler
plug orifice

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use
extreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Do not use fluid
that has been standing open for some
time as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.

Old hydraulic fluid is
invariably much darker in
colour than the new, making
it easy to distinguish the two.

1•18 Maintenance procedures

Cooling system draining

1 To drain the cooling system, remove the
expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap anti­clockwise until it reaches the first stop. Wait
until any pressure remaining in the system is
released then push the cap down, turn it anti­clockwise to the second stop and lift off.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
radiator bottom hose union.
3 Slacken the hose clip and ease the hose
from the radiator stub. If the hose joint has not
been disturbed for some time, it will be
necessary to gently manipulate the hose to
break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or
the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the
coolant to drain into the container.
4 As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted and
the radiator bottom hose union may be
situated halfway up the radiator, this may not
fully drain the cooling system.
5 If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used.
6 Reconnect the hose and securely tighten its
retaining clip on completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing

7 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment.
8 The cooling system efficiency can be
restored by flushing the system clean.
9 The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine to avoid
unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

10 To flush the radiator, drain the cooling

system then proceed as follows.
11 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top and bottom hoses from the radiator.
12 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean
water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet.
13 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed

with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
important that the manufacturers instructions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator
bottom outlet, and flush the radiator in reverse.

Engine flushing

14 To flush the engine, remove the

thermostat as described in Chapter 3, then
temporarily refit the thermostat cover.
15 With the top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct
a clean flow of water through the engine, and
continue flushing until clean water emerges
from the radiator bottom hose.
16 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and reconnect the hoses with
reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling

17 Before attempting to fill the cooling system,
make sure that all hoses and clips are in good
condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that
an antifreeze mixture must be used all year
round, to prevent corrosion of the engine
components (see following sub-Section). Also
check that the radiator and cylinder block drain
plugs are in place and tight.

18 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
19 On 1.2 litre models, disconnect the heater

hose from the cylinder head, on 1.3, 1.4 and
later 1.6 litre engines models, disconnect the
wire and unscrew the coolant temperature
sender from the inlet manifold. On early 1.6,
and all 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, unscrew the
bleed screw which is situated in the
thermostat housing cover (where no bleed
screw is fitted, unscrew the temperature
sender unit) (see illustrations).
20 Fill the system by slowly pouring the
coolant into the expansion tank to prevent
airlocks from forming.
21 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by
pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed
by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top­up with more water.
22 When coolant free of air bubbles emerges
from the orifice, reconnect the heater hose (1.2
litre models) or refit the coolant temperature

sender/bleed screw (as applicable) and tighten
it securely (all other models).
23 Top-up the coolant level to the “KALT” (or
“COLD”) mark on the expansion tank, then
refit the expansion tank cap.
24 Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool.
25 Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
level in the expansion tank, and top-up if
necessary. Note that the system must be cold
before an accurate level is indicated in the
expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is
removed while the engine is still warm, cover
the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the
cap slowly to gradually relieve the system
pressure (a hissing sound will normally be
heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in
the system is released, then continue to turn
the cap until it can be removed.

Antifreeze mixture

26 The antifreeze should always be renewed
at the specified intervals. This is necessary
not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,
but also to prevent corrosion which would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective.
27 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed
metal cooling systems. The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are
indicated in the Specifications.
28 Before adding antifreeze the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
29 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used and
the date installed. Any subsequent topping up
should be made with the same type and
concentration of antifreeze.
30 Do not use engine antifreeze in the screen
washer system, as it will cause damage to the
vehicle paintwork. A proprietry screen should
be added to the washer system in the
recommended quantities.

32 Coolant renewal

Every 2 Years

32.19a On 1.2 litre models, bleed the

cooling system through the cylinder head

heater hose outlet

32.19b On 1.3 litre models, unscrew

temperature gauge sender unit from the

manifold to bleed the cooling system

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow

antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its
sweet smell. Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.

1 Allow the transmission to cool down before
draining, as the fluid: can be very hot indeed.
2 Remove all the fluid pan screws except one
which should be unscrewed through several
turns.
3 Release the fluid pan from its gasket and as
the end of the pan tilts downwards, catch the

fluid in a suitable container.
4 Remove the remaining screw and the pan.
Peel off the gasket (where fitted) or remove all
traces of sealant (as applicable).
5 Pull the filter mesh from its securing clips
and recover its sealing ring. Clean the filter in
a high flash-point solvent and allow it to dry. If
the filter is clogged or split it must be
renewed.

6 Fit a new O-ring and refit the filter securely.
7 Ensure that the fluid pan and transmission

mating surfaces are clean and dry and bolt on
the fluid pan using a new gasket. Where no
gasket is fitted, apply a bead of sealant about

5.0 mm thick to clean surfaces. The fluid pan
which is fitted with a gasket can be identified
by the strengthening ribs on the pan flanges.
The pan for use with silicone sealant has plain
flanges.
8 Fill the transmission with the specified
quantity of fluid and then check the level as
described in Section 13.

33 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

Maintenance procedures 1•19

1

Specifications

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixtures:

Protection down to -15ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28% antifreeze

Protection down to -30ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50% antifreeze

Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendation

Fuel system

Idle speed:

Carburettor models:

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 950 rpm

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 850 rpm

Fuel-injected models:

1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830 to 990 rpm*

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720 to 880 rpm*

1.8 litre models:
Early (pre 1987) models:

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 950 rpm

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 850 rpm

Later (1987 onwards) models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 900 rpm

2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720 to 780 rpm*

Idle mixture CO content:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5%

Fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 1.0%**

*Not adjustable - controlled by ECU
**On all 1.4 and 1.6 litre fuel injection models, and 2.0 litre models with a catalytic converter the exhaust gas CO content is regulated by the
control unit and is not adjustable

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

Type:

1.2 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RL82YCC or RL82YC

1.3, 1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

2.0 litre models:

8-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC

16-valve models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9MCC

Electrode gap:

RL82YCC, RN9YCC and RC9MCC plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

RL82YC and RN9YC plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s spark plug gap recommendations.

HT leads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Braking system

Brake pad minimum thickness (including backing plate) . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Rear brake shoe minimum friction material-to-rivet head depth . . . . . . 0.5 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66

Every 36 000 miles

General

Maker’s designation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 SC

Bore x stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.0 x 61.0 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1196 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0: 1

Valve clearances (warm)

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Cylinder head

Identification mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E

Valve seat width:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.50 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60 to 1.85 mm

Overall height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 ± 0.25 mm

Valves and guides Inlet Exhaust

Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99.3 mm 101.1 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 mm 29 mm

Stem diameter (nominal, ± 0.005 mm):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.005 mm 6.995 mm

Oversize 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.080 mm 7.060 mm

Oversize 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.155 mm 7.1 35 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.255 mm 7.235 mm

Valve guide bore (± 0.01 mm):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.035 mm

Oversize 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.110 mm

Oversize 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.185 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.285 mm

Valve clearance in guide:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 5 to 0.045 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.035 to 0.065 mm

Sealing face angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44°

Chapter 2 Part A:

OHV engine

Ancillary components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Camshaft and tappets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .20

Crankshaft rear oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Cylinder head - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Weekly checks

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Engine components - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Engine dismantling and reassembly - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine lubrication system - general description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .17

Flywheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

General engine checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Oil pump - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Operations possible with the engine in the car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Timing gear components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

2A•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

2A

2A•2 OHV engine

Camshaft

Radial run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm max

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 to 0.43 mm

Cam lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.45 mm

Pistons and bores Diameters Marking

Production size 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.95 mm 5

78.96 mm 6

78.97 mm 7

78.98 mm 8

Production size 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78.99 mm 99

79.00 mm 00

79.01 mm 01

79.02 mm 02

Production size 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.03 mm 03

79.04 mm 04

79.05 mm 05

79.06 mm 06

Production size 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.07 mm 07

79.08 mm 08

79.09 mm 09

79.10 mm 1

Oversize (+0.5 mm nominal) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.47 mm 79.47/7 +0.5

79.48 mm 79.48/8 +0.5

79.49 mm 79.49/9 +0.5

79.50 mm 79.50/0 + 0.5

Pistons clearance in bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.3 mm estimated

Bore out-of-round and taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 mm max

Piston rings

Quantity (per piston) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 compression, 1 oil control (scraper)

Thickness:

Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Oil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

End gap:

Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm

Oil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

Ring gap offset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180° (see text)

Ring vertical clearance in groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not specified - typically 0.06 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 mm

Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0015 to 0.0195 mm

Clearance in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None (interference fit)

Crankshaft and bearings

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Main bearing journal diameters - standard:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.997 to 54.010 mm

Centre and rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.007 to 54.020 mm

Centre journal width - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.000 to 29.052 mm

Main bearing shell identification - standard: Colour code Embossed code

Front, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown 1 ON or 701-N

Front, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown 1 UN or 702-N

Centre, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown 20+UN or 705-N

Centre, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green 20+UN or 725-N

Rear, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green 631-N

Rear, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green 635-N

Main bearing shell identification - standard journal, oversize housing:

Front, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U1 -OB

Front, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U1-U

Centre, top and bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U

Rear, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U3-OB

Rear, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U3-U

Big-end bearing journal diameter - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.971 to 44.987 mm

Big-end bearing shell identification - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None

Main and big-end bearing undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm production and service; 0.50 mm service only

The engine is of four-cylinder. in-line
overhead valve type, mounted transversely at
the front of the car.

The crankshaft is supported in three shell
type main bearings. Thrustwashers are
incorporated in the centre main bearing to
control crankshaft endfloat.

The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell type
big-end bearings. and to the pistons by

gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in
the connecting rod small-end bore. The
aluminium alloy pistons are of the slipper type
and are fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.

The camshaft is chain driven from the

crankshaft and operates the rocker arms via

1 General description

OHV engine 2A•3

2A

Main bearing shell identification - 0.25 undersize: Colour code Embossed code

Front, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-blue 1 OA or 006-A

Front, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-blue 1 UA or 008-A

Centre, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-blue 20+UA or 014-A

Centre, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown 20+UA or 034-A

Rear, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green-blue 632-A

Rear, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green-blue 636-A

Main bearing shell identification - 0.50 undersize:

Front, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-black 1 OB or 027 B

Front, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-black 1 U or 029 B

Centre, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown-black 2 OB 0.35 B

Centre, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green-black 2 UB 035 B

Rear, top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None 3 OB 0,50

Rear, bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None 3 U 0,50

Big-end bearing shell identification:

0.25 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A

0.50 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B

Main and big-end bearing journal out-of-round . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 mm max

Main and big-end bearing journal taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 mm max

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.20 mm

Connecting rod endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.06 mm

Main bearing running clearance:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.046 mm

Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.036 mm

Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 0 to 0.032 mm estimated

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.11 to 0.24 mm

Crankshaft radial run-out (at centre journal, shaft in block) . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm max

Flywheel

Ring gear run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm max

Refinishing limit - depth of material which may be removed from

clutch friction surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm max

Lubrication system

Oil pump tolerances:

Teeth backlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.2 mm

Teeth projection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.10 mm

Oil pressure at idle (engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 bar

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Flywheel bolts (Use new bolts every time):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 50° to 90°

Main bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 46

Big-end bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Sump bolts (with locking compound) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Cylinder head bolts (use new bolts every time):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60°

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60°

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60°

Camshaft sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Crankshaft pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Engine mounting bracket, RH:

To block (use sealant on lower bolt) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

To damping pad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Engine mountings to body:

LH rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

RH rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

tappets and short pushrods. The inlet and
exhaust valves are each closed by a single
valve spring and operates in guides, integral
with the cylinder head. The valves are
actuated directly by the rocker arms.

Engine lubrication is by a gear type oil
pump. The pump is mounted beneath the
crankcase and is driven by a camshaft, as are
the distributor and fuel pump.

Many of the engine component retaining
bolts are of the socket-headed type and
require the use of Torx type multi-tooth keys
or socket bits for removal. These are readily
available from retail outlets and should be
obtained if major dismantling or repair work is
to be carried out on the engine.

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the battery
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an
assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from
the distributor cap and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire to make a good connection.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is best.
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.
Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually­increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8 Although Vauxhall do not specify exact
compression pressures, as a guide, any
cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be
considered as less than healthy. Refer to a
Vauxhall dealer or other specialist if in doubt

as to whether a particular pressure reading is
acceptable.
9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause. Put
a teaspoonfull of clean oil into that cylinder
through its spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.
13 If the compression reading is unusually
high, the combustion chambers are probably
coated with carbon deposits. If this is the
case, the cylinder head should be removed
and decarbonised.
14 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

The following operations may be carried out

without having to remove the engine:

a) Adjustment of the valve clearances.
b) Removal and refitting of cylinder head.
c) Removal and refitting of sump.
d) Removal and refitting of oil pump.
e) Removal and refitting of the timing gear

components.

f) Removal and refitting of pistons and

connecting rods.
g) Removal and refitting of the flywheel.
h) Removal and refitting of the

engine/transmission mountings.

The following operations can only be

carried out after removal of the engine:

a) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.
b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

and main bearings.
c) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft

rear oil seal.

1 If the engine has been removed from the
car for major overhaul, or if individual
components have been removed for repair or
renewal, observe the following general hints
on dismantling and reassembly.

2 Drain the oil into a suitable container and
then thoroughly clean the exterior of the
engine using a degreasing solvent or paraffin.
Clean away as much of the external dirt and
grease as possible before dismantling.
3 As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
4 Avoid working with the engine or any of the
components directly on a concrete floor, as
grit presents a real source of trouble.
5 Wherever possible, work should be carried
out with the engine or individual components
on a strong bench. If the work must be done
on the floor, cover it with a board or sheets of
newspaper.
6 Have plenty of clean, lint-free rags available
and also some containers or trays to hold
small items. This will help during reassembly
and also prevent possible losses.
7 Always obtain a complete set of gaskets if
the engine is being completely dismantled, or
all those necessary for the individual
component or assembly being worked on.
Keep the old gaskets with a view to using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
8 If possible refit nuts, bolts and washers in their
locations after removal; this helps to protect the
threads and avoids confusion or loss.
9 During reassembly thoroughly lubricate all
the components, where this is applicable, with
engine oil, but avoid contaminating the
gaskets and joint mating faces.
10 Where applicable, the following Sections
describe the removal, refitting and adjustment
of components with the engine in the car. If
the engine has been removed from the car,
the procedures described are the same
except for the disconnection of hoses, cables
and linkages, and the removal of components
necessary for access, which will already have
been done.

If the engine has been removed from the
car for complete dismantling, the following
externally mounted ancillary components
should be removed. When the engine has
been reassembled these components can be
refitted before the engine is installed in the
car, as setting up and adjustment is often
easier with the engine removed. The removal
and refitting sequence need not necessarily
follow the order given:

a) Alternator (Chapter 5A).
b) Distributor and spark plugs (Chapters 1

and 5).

c) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and

carburettor (Chapter 4A).
d) Fuel pump (Chapter 4A).
e) Water pump and thermostat (Chapter 3).
f) Clutch assembly (Chapter 6).

6 Ancillary components - removal

and refitting

5 Engine dismantling and

reassembly - general information

4 Operations requiring engine

removal

3 Operations possible with the

engine in the car

2 Compression test - description

and interpretation

2A•4 OHV engine

1 This adjustment should be carried out with
the engine at its normal operating
temperature. If it is being done after overhaul
when the engine is cold, repeat the
adjustment after the car has been driven a few
kilometres when the engine will then be hot.
2 Begin by removing the air cleaner, as
described in Chapter 4A.
3 Mark the spark plug leads to ensure correct
refitting and then pull them off the spark
plugs.
4 Disconnect the engine breather hoses at
the rocker cover (see illustration).
5 Undo the four bolts securing the rocker
cover to the cylinder head and lift off the
shaped spreader washers.
6 Withdraw the rocker cover from the cylinder
head. If it is stuck give it a tap with the palm of
your hand to free it.
7 Turn the engine by means of the crankshaft
pulley bolt, or by engaging top gear and
pulling the car forward, until No 1 piston is
approaching TDC on the firing stroke. This
can be checked by removing No 1 spark plug
and feeling for compression with your fingers
as the engine is turned, or by removing the
distributor cap and checking the position of
the rotor arm which should be pointing to the
No 1 spark plug lead segment in the cap. The
ignition timing marks on the pulley and timing
cover must be aligned (see illustration).
8 With the engine in this position the
following valves can be adjusted - counting
from the timing cover end of the engine.

1 exhaust
2 inlet
3 inlet
5 exhaust

9 Now turn the engine crankshaft through
one complete revolution and adjust the
following remaining valves:

4 exhaust
6 inlet
7 inlet
8 exhaust

10 As each clearance is being checked, slide
a feeler blade of the appropriate size, as given
in the Specifications, between the end of the

valve stem and the rocker arm (see
illustration). Adjust the clearance by turning
the rocker arm retaining nut using a socket or
ring spanner until the blade is a stiff sliding fit.
11 It is also possible to check and adjust the
clearances with the engine running. This is
done in the same way, but each valve is
checked in turn. It will of course be necessary
to refit the plug leads and No 1 spark plug if
this method is adopted. To reduce oil splash
place a piece of cardboard, suitably cut to
shape, between the pushrod side of the
rocker arms and the edge of the cylinder
head.
12 After adjustment remove all traces of old
gasket from the cylinder head mating face
and renew the rocker cover gasket if it is
cracked or perished.
13 Refit the rocker cover and secure with the
retaining bolts and shaped spreader washers.
14 Refit the spark plug and plug leads,
reconnect the engine breather hoses and refit
the air cleaner, as described in Chapters 1
and 4.

Removal

1 Make sure that the engine is cold before
commencing operations to avoid any chance
of the head distorting.

2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
3 Drain the cooling system, as described in

Chapter 1, and remove the air cleaner, as
described in Chapter 4A.
4 From behind the engine, undo the two bolts
securing the exhaust front pipe to the
manifold. Remove the bolts and tension
springs; then separate the pipe joint from the
manifold.
5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the radiator top hose from the thermostat
housing in the water pump.
6 Slacken the alternator mounting and
adjustment arm bolts, move the alternator
towards the engine and slip the drivebelt off
the pulleys.
7 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the heater hose and radiator bottom hose
from the water pump.

8 Disconnect the other heater hose at the
cylinder head outlet after slackening the
retaining clip.
9 Undo the union nut and disconnect the
brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold.
10 Note the location of the plug leads to aid
refitting and pull them off the spark plugs.
Disconnect the HT lead at the coil, undo the
distributor cap retaining screws and remove
the cap and leads.
11 Refer to Chapter 4A and disconnect the
choke and accelerator cables from the
carburettor. Detach the distributor vacuum
advance pipe.
12 Disconnect the fuel hose from the
carburettor and plug its end after removal.
13 Disconnect the engine breather hoses
from the rocker cover.
14 Undo the three socket-headed screws
securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder
head. Note the spark plug lead support
brackets fitted to the two end retaining bolts.
15 Lift the inlet manifold complete with
carburettor from the cylinder head and
recover the gasket.
16 Undo the four bolts and shaped spreader
washers and lift off the rocker cover.
17 Slacken the rocker arm retaining nuts,
move the rocker arms to one side and lift out
the pushrods (see illustration). Keep the
pushrods in order after removal.
18 Undo the cylinder head retaining bolts,
half a turn at a time in the reverse sequence to
that shown in illustration 8.26. Unscrew the
bolts fully and remove them. Obtain new bolts
for use when refitting.

8 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting

7 Valve clearances - adjustment

OHV engine 2A•5

2A

7.7 Ignition timing marks (arrowed) in
alignment

8.17 Removing the pushrods7.10 Checking a valve clearance

7.4 Removing the breather hose from the
rocker cover

19 Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is

stuck, tap it free with a soft-faced mallet. Do
not insert a lever into the gasket joint - you
may damage the mating surfaces.
20 With the cylinder head removed, recover
the gasket.
21 If the cylinder head has been removed for
decarbonising or for attention to the valves or
springs, reference should be made to
Sections 9 and 10.

Refitting

22 Before refitting the cylinder head, ensure
that the cylinder block and head mating faces
are spotlessly clean and dry with all traces of
old gasket removed. Use a scraper and wire
brush to do this, but take care to cover the
water passages and other openings with
masking tape or rag to prevent dirt and
carbon falling in. Remove all traces of oil and
water from the bolt holes, otherwise hydraulic
pressure created by the bolts being screwed
in could crack the block or give inaccurate
torque settings. Ensure that the bolt threads
are clean and dry.
23 When all is clean, screw two guide studs
into the cylinder block. These can be made
from the two old cylinder head bolts by
cutting off their heads and sawing a
screwdriver slot in their ends.
24 Locate a new gasket in position on the
block as shown (see illustration). Do not use
any jointing compound on the gasket
25 Lower the cylinder head carefully into
position. Screw in new bolts finger tight,
remove the guide pins and screw in the two
remaining bolts.
26 Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
order shown (see illustration) to the first
stage specified torque. Now tighten the bolts
through three further stages as given in the
Specifications. No further retightening will be
required.
27 Refit the pushrods, making quite sure that
each one is located in its tappet.
28 Reposition the rocker arms over the ends
of the pushrods and then adjust the valve
clearances, as described in Section 7.
29 Place a new gasket in position and refit
the inlet manifold and carburettor (see

illustration).
30 Refit the rocker cover, using a new

gasket, and secure with the four bolts and
spreader washers.
31 Refit the heater hoses and radiator hoses
to the outlets on the water pump and cylinder
head.
32 Refit the fuel hose to the carburettor, the
vacuum advance pipe to the distributor and
the breather hoses to the rocker cover.
33 Refit and adjust the accelerator and choke
cables, as described in Chapter 4A.
34 Refit the brake servo vacuum hose to the
inlet manifold.
35 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect the
plug leads and coil lead.
36 Slip the drivebelt over the pulleys and
adjust its tension, as described in Chapter 1.
37 Reconnect the exhaust front pipe to the
manifold and tighten the bolts to compress
the tension springs.
38 Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1, refit the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4A and connect the battery negative
terminal.

1 Unscrew the rocker arm retaining
/adjustment nuts and withdraw the rocker
arms from the studs. Keep them in order as
they are removed.
2 To remove the valves, the springs will have
to be compressed to allow the split collets to
be released from the groove in the upper
section of the valve stems. A valve spring
compressor will therefore be necessary.
3 Locate the compressor to enable the forked
end of the arm to be positioned over the valve
spring collar whilst the screw part of the
clamp is situated squarely on the face of the
valve.
4 Screw up the clamp to compress the spring
and release the pressure of the collar acting
on the collets. If the collar sticks, support the
head and clamp frame and give the end of the
clamp a light tap with a hammer to help
release it.
5 Extract the two collets and then release the
tension of the clamp. Remove the clamp,
withdraw the collar and spring and extract the
valve. Remove the valve stem seals and the
exhaust valve rotators.

6 As they are released and removed, keep
the valves in order so that if they are to be
refitted they will be replaced in their original
positions in the cylinder head. A piece of stiff
card with eight holes punched in it is a sure
method of keeping the valves in order.
7 Examine the head of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the heads of the
exhaust valves. The valve seating should be
examined at the same time. If the pitting on
valve and seat is very slight, the marks can be
removed by grinding the seats and valves
together with coarse, and then fine, valve
grinding paste.
8 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve
seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit
new valves. The latter job should be entrusted
to the local agent or engineering works. In
practice it is very seldom that the seats are so
badly worn. Normally it is the valve that is too
badly worn for refitting, and the owner can
easily purchase a new set of valves and
match them to the seats by valve grinding.
9 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and apply a suction grinder
tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary
motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste, lifting
and turning the valve to redistribute the paste
as before. A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this operation.
When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey
matt finish is produced, on both valve and
valve seat faces, the grinding operation is
complete.
10 Scrape away all carbon from the valve
head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away
every trace of grinding compound; take great
care to leave none in the ports or in the valve
guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with
a paraffin-soaked rag, then with a clean rag
and finally, if an air line is available, blow the
valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.
11 Check that all valve springs are intact. If
any one is broken, all should be renewed.
Check the free height of the springs against
new ones. If some springs are not within

9 Cylinder head - overhaul

2A•6 OHV engine

8.24 Fitting a cylinder head gasket 8.29 Inlet manifold gasket in position8.26 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence

specification, replace them all. Springs suffer
from fatigue and it is a good idea to renew
them even if they look serviceable.
12 Check that the oil supply holes in the
rocker arm studs are clear.
13 The cylinder head can be checked for
warping either by placing it on a piece of plate
glass or using a straight-edge and feeler
blades. Slight distortion may be corrected by
having the head machined to remove metal
from the mating face.
14 Valve guide renewal is necessary if the
valve stem clearance in the guide exceeds
that specified. Renewal, or reaming to accept
oversize valves, should be left to a GM dealer.
15 Commence reassembly by lubricating a
valve stem and inserting it into its guide (see

illustration).
16 Fit the valve stem oil seal, using the

protective sleeve supplied with the new seals
over the valve stem to avoid damage.

Lubricate the sleeve and push on the seal,
ring downwards. Recover the sleeve.

17 On exhaust valves, fit the valve rotator
(see illustration).
18 Fit the valve spring and collar, with the

recessed part of the collar inside the spring

(see illustrations).
19 Place the end of the spring compressor

over the collar and valve stem and, with the
screw head of the compressor over the valve
head, screw up the clamp until the spring is
compressed past the groove in the valve
stem. Then put a little grease round the
groove.
20 Place the two halves of the split collar
(collets) into the groove with the narrow ends
pointing towards the spring (see illustration).
The grease will hold them in the groove.
21 Release the clamp slowly and carefully,
making sure that the collets are not dislodged
from the groove. When the clamp is fully
released the top edges of the collets should
be in line with each other. Give the top of each
spring a smart tap with a soft-faced mallet
when assembly is complete to ensure that the
collets are properly settled.
22 Repeat the above procedure for the other
7 valves.
23 The rocker gear can be refitted with the
head either on or off the engine. The only part
of the procedure to watch is that the rocker
nuts must not be screwed down too far or it
will not be possible to refit the pushrods.
24 Next put the rocker arm over the stud
followed by the pivot ball (see illustrations).
Make sure that the spring fits snugly round
the rocker arm centre section and that the two

bearing surfaces of the interior of the arm and
the ball face, are clean and lubricated with
engine oil.
25 Oil the stud thread and fit the nut with the
self-locking collar uppermost (see
illustration). Screw it down until the locking
collar is on the stud.

1 This can be carried out with the engine
either in or out of the car. With the cylinder
head removed, carefully use a wire brush and
blunt scraper to clean all traces of carbon
deposits from the combustion spaces and the
ports. The valve head stems and valve guides
should also be freed from any carbon
deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and
ports down with petrol and scrape the
cylinder head surface free of any foreign

10 Cylinder head and pistons

- decarbonising

OHV engine 2A•7

2A

9.18a Fit the valve spring . . .

9.25 Fit the nut with the self-locking collar
uppermost

9.24b . . . and its pivot ball9.24a Fitting a rocker arm . . .

9.20 Compress the spring and fit the
collets

9.18b . . . followed by the spring collar

9.17 Fitting an exhaust valve rotator9.15 Fitting a valve to its guide

matter with the side of a steel rule or a similar
article.
2 If the engine is installed in the car, clean the
pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If
the pistons are still in the block, then it is
essential that great care is taken to ensure
that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as
this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause
damage to the piston and rings. To ensure
this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft
so that two of the pistons are at the top of
their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores
or seal them off with paper and masking tape.
The waterways should also be covered with
small pieces of masking tape to prevent
particles of carbon entering the cooling
system and damaging the water pump.
3 Press a little grease into the gap between
the cylinder walls and the two pistons which
are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper
carefully scrape away the carbon from the
piston crown, taking great care not to scratch
the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon
from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall.
When all carbon has been removed, scrape
away the grease which will now be
contaminated with carbon particles, taking
care not to press any into the bores. To assist
prevention of carbon build-up the piston
crown can be polished with a metal polish.
Remove the rags or masking tape from the
other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so
that the two pistons which were at the bottom
are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape
in the cylinders which have been
decarbonised and proceed as just described.
Decarbonising is now complete.

Removal

1 Jack up the front of the car and securely
support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”).
2 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container
(Section 2) and refit the plug after draining.
3 Undo the bolts securing the flywheel cover
plate and side support braces and remove the
cover.
4 Undo the retaining bolts and lift away the
sump. It will probably be necessary to tap the
sump from side to side with a hide or plastic
mallet to release the joint face.

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the sump in paraffin or a
suitable solvent and remove all traces of
external dirt and internal sludge. Scrape away
all traces of old gasket from the sump and
crankcase faces and ensure that they are
clean and dry. Also clean the bearing cap
grooves.
6 Apply a thick bead of jointing compound to
the crankcase flange and at the joints of the
front and rear main bearing caps
7 Position the cork side gaskets on the
crankcase flanges and then insert the cork
and sealing strips to the main bearing cap
grooves (see illustration).
8 Apply a further bead of jointing compound
to the gasket faces and to the gasket joints at
the bearing caps.

9 Refit the sump (see illustration) and secure
it in place with the retaining bolts which
should be progressively tightened in a
diagonal sequence.
10 Refit the flywheel cover plate, lower the
car and fill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1.

Removal

1 Remove the sump. as described in Section

11.
2 Undo the two socket-headed bolts and
withdraw the pump from the crankcase (see
illustrations).

Refitting

3 Refitting the pump is the reverse sequence
to removal, but engage the pump shaft in the
distributor driveshaft slot, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

1 Remove the oil pump, as described in
Section 12.
2 Undo the two pump cover bolts and lift off
the cover and oil pick-up tube. Remove the
cover gasket.

3 Take out the driving gear and driven gear
(see illustrations).

13 Oil pump - overhaul

12 Oil pump - removal and

refitting

11 Sump - removal and refitting

2A•8 OHV engine

11.7 Insert the cork strips in the main
bearing cap grooves

12.2a Undo the two socket-headed bolts
(arrowed) . . .

13.3b . . . and the driven gear13.3a Removing the oil pump driving

gear . . .

12.2b . . . and remove the oil pump

11.9 Refitting the sump

4 Undo the large nut on the side of the

housing and remove the sealing washer and
oil pressure relief spring and ball valve (see

illustration).
5 Clean all the parts in paraffin and dry with a

lint-free cloth.
6 Inspect the pump gears, housing, cover
and relief valve ball for scoring, scuff marks or
other signs of wear and renew the pump if
these signs are evident.
7 If the pump condition is satisfactory, check
the pump clearances as follows.
8 Using a feeler blade, check the backlash
between the gear teeth. Place a straight-edge
across the top edge of the gears and check
their projection. If any of the clearances
exceeds the tolerances given in the
Specifications, renew the pump (see

illustration).
9 If the clearances are satisfactory, refit the

relief valve assembly and assemble the pump
gears. Fill the pump with oil and refit the cover
using a new gasket. Tighten the cover
securing bolts and refit the pump.

Removal

1 For greater access remove the front
right-hand wheel trim and slacken the wheel
bolts. Jack up the front of the car, support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”) and remove the roadwheel.
2 Undo the four retaining bolts and remove
the clutch access plate at the base of the
bellhousing (see illustration).
3 Slacken the alternator mounting and
adjustment arm bolts, move the alternators

towards the engine and slip the drivebelt off
the pulleys.
4 Lock the flywheel by wedging a screwdriver
between the ring gear teeth and the side of
the bellhousing.
5 Using a socket or spanner undo the
crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and withdraw
the pulley.
6 Undo the bolts securing the timing cover to
the front of the engine and lift off the cover.
7 Withdraw the oil slinger from the
crankshaft, noting which way round it is fitted

(see illustration).
8 Temporarily refit the pulley and turn the

crankshaft until the crankshaft sprocket
keyway is uppermost and the timing marks on
the two sprockets are in alignment (see

illustration). Remove the pulley.
9 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove

the timing chain tensioner. One of two types
of tensioner may be fitted: simple
spring-operated, or oil pressure assisted. With
the oil pressure assisted type, restrain the
thrust pad to prevent premature ejection of
the tensioner components (see illustration).
10 Undo the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt
and remove the bolt and washer (see
illustration). Place a screwdriver through one
of the sprocket holes and in contact with the
camshaft retaining plate behind the sprocket
to stop it turning as the bolt is undone.
11 Withdraw the camshaft sprocket and
crankshaft sprocket from their respective
locations, using a screwdriver as a lever if
necessary, then remove the sprockets
complete with chain (see illustration).

12 Thoroughly clean all the components in

14 Timing gear components -

removal and refitting

OHV engine 2A•9

2A

14.2 Clutch access plate

14.11 Removing the sprockets and timing
chain

14.10 Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt
and washer

14.9 Timing chain tensioner - oil pressure
assisted type

14.7 Crankshaft oil slinger 14.8 Crankshaft sprocket keyway (A) and
sprocket timing marks (B)

13.8 Check the pump gear teeth backlash13.4 Oil pump and pressure relief valve

components

paraffin and dry them with a lint-free cloth.
Remove all traces of old gasket from the faces
of the timing cover and engine.

Refitting

13 To renew the oil seal in the timing cover,
place the cover outer face downwards over
two blocks of wood and drive out the old seal
and holder using a hammer and drift (see

illustration).
14 Place the new seal (which must have been

soaked in engine oil for 24 hours) in the holder
and then tap the holder into the cover using a
block of wood (see illustrations). The seal
holder must be fitted flush with the outer edge
of the timing cover.
15 Commence reassembly by engaging the
chain around the crankshaft sprocket.
16 Engage the camshaft sprocket within the
loop of the chain so that it can be fitted to the

camshaft and will have its timing mark in
alignment with the one on the crankshaft
sprocket. Adjust the camshaft sprocket as
necessary within the chain loop to achieve
this.
17 Fit the sprocket to the camshaft, screw in
the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt while
holding the sprocket with a screwdriver, as
was done during removal.
18 Refit the timing chain tensioner. With the
oil pressure assisted type, compress the
thrust pad by hand, secure the tensioner and
release the thrust pad.
19 To refit the spring-operated chain
tensioner, place the tensioner in position and
fit the lower retaining bolt finger tight. Move
the spring blade away from the tensioner
body with a screwdriver, pivot the tensioner
into position and fit the upper retaining bolt,
then release the springs and tighten both
bolts (see illustrations).
20 Position the oil slinger over the crankshaft
and place a new gasket on the front of the
engine (see illustration). Apply jointing
compound to both sides of the gasket.
21 Refit the cover and the retaining bolts, but
only screw the bolts in two or three turns (see
illustration). Position the crankshaft pulley on
the crankshaft to centralise the cover and
then tighten the bolts progressively in a
diagonal sequence.
22 Refit the pulley retaining bolt and tighten
to the specified torque.
23 Refit the drivebelt and adjust its tension,
as described in Chapter 1.
24 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to
the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts.

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head, the sump and
the oil pump, as described in earlier Sections.
2 The connecting rod big-end caps and rods
may not be marked numerically for location
when new and therefore they must be
inspected for identification marks before
dismantling. If no marks are evident, punch,
scribe or file identification marks on the caps
and rods starting with No 1 at the timing cover
end. Mark them all on the same side to avoid
confusion during reassembly. If they have
already been marked then this will not, of
course, be necessary.
3 Undo and remove the big-end cap retaining
bolts and keep them in order for correct
refitting.
4 Detach the big-end bearing caps. If stuck,
lightly tap them free using a soft-faced mallet.
5 To remove the bearing shells for inspection
and/or renewal, press the bearing end
opposite the groove in both connecting rod
and bearing cap and the shells will slide out.
Again keep the shells in order of removal.
6 The piston rod assemblies are removed
through the top of each cylinder bore, being
pushed upwards from underneath using a
wooden hammer handle which is pushed
against the connecting rod. Rotate the
crankshaft accordingly to gain suitable access
to each rod assembly. Note that, if there is a
pronounced wear ridge at the top of the

15 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

2A•10 OHV engine

14.13 Using a drift to remove the timing
cover oil seal

14.14b . . . and refit the holder and seal to
the timing cover

14.21 Refitting the timing cover14.20 Fitting a new timing cover gasket14.19b . . . then push back the spring,

pivot the tensioner and fit the upper bolt

14.19a Fit the tensioner lower bolt . . .

14.14a Fit the new seal to the holder

cylinder bore, there is a risk of piston ring
damage unless the ridge is first removed
using a ridge reaming tool, or scraper.
7 The pistons should not be separated from
their connecting rods unless they or the
gudgeon pins are to be renewed. The
gudgeon pin is a press fit and special tools
are required for removing and installation.
This task should therefore be entrusted to
your local agent or automotive machine shop.
8 If for any reason the pistons are separated
from their rods, mark them numerically on the
same side as the rod markings to ensure
correct refitting.

Refitting

9 If new pistons or piston rings are being
fitted to the old bores, it is essential to
roughen the cylinder bore walls slightly with
medium grit emery cloth to allow the rings to
bed in. Do this with a circular up-and-down
action to produce a criss-cross pattern on the
cylinder bore walls. Make sure that the
bearing journal on the crankshaft is protected
with masking tape during this operation.
Thoroughly clean the bores with a
paraffin-soaked rag and dry with a lint-free
cloth Remove the tape from the crankshaft
journals and clean them also.
10 Commence reassembly by lubricating the
cylinder bores and crankshaft journals.
11 Space the piston rings around the pistons
so that their end gaps are 180º apart. In the
case of the oil scraper ring, offset the gaps in
the upper and lower rails by 25 to 50 mm to
right and left of the end gap of the central
section. Offer a piston/connecting rod

assembly to its bore, making sure that it is the
right way round (see illustration).
12 Oil the piston and rings, then fit a piston
ring compressor to the piston and tighten it to
compress the rings (see illustration).
13 Gently tap the piston through the ring
compressor and into its bore using the
hammer handle. Guide the connecting rod
near to its crankshaft journal and then fit the
bearing shell upper half.
14 Ease the connecting rod onto the journal,
fit the lower shell to the cap and fit the cap to
the rod (see illustration). Refit and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque (see

illustration).
15 Repeat the sequence described for the

remaining three piston/ connecting rods.
16 Refit the cylinder head, oil pump and
sump, as described in earlier Sections.

Removal

1 Remove the clutch assembly and the
release bearing, as described in Chapter 6.
2 Undo the three bolts and remove the
release bearing guide tube.
3 Mark the position of the flywheel in relation
to the crankshaft mounting flange or pulley.
4 Wedge a screwdriver between the ring gear
teeth and transmission casing and then undo
the socket-headed retaining bolts using a
multi-tooth key or socket bit (see illustration).
Remove the bolts and withdraw the flywheel.

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts
to the specified torque.

Removal

1 The engine/transmission assembly is
supported in a triangular arrangement of three
mountings: one on the right-hand side
supporting the engine, one on the left-hand
side supporting the transmission and a third
centrally sited mount supporting the complete
assembly at the rear.
2 To remove either of the front mountings
position a jack under the engine or
transmission adjacent to the mounting and
just take the weight of the engine or
transmission.
3 Undo the bolts securing the support
bracket to the engine or gearbox and the bolts
securing the mounting to the bodyframe. Lift
off the bracket and remove the relevant
mounting.
4 To remove the rear mounting jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5 Support the engine/transmission assembly
under the differential cover plate using a jack
and interposed block of wood.
6 Undo the two bolts securing the mounting
to the underbody and the through-bolt and
nut securing the mounting to the support
bracket. Slide the mounting rearwards out of
the bracket and remove it from under the car.

Refitting

7 In all cases refitting is the reverse sequence
to removal, but tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque. Where thread locking
compound was evident on the old bolts, clean
out the bolt holes using a tap (or an old bolt
with a slot cut in its threads); clean the bolt
threads and apply thread locking compound.
8 If there is an arrow stamped on the rear
mounting, it should point to the front when the
mounting is fitted.

17 Engine/transmission

mountings - removal and

refitting

16 Flywheel - removal and

refitting

OHV engine 2A•11

2A

15.14a Fitting a big-end bearing cap 16.4 Flywheel retaining bolts are
socket-headed

15.14b Tightening a big-end bearing cap
bolt

15.12 Piston ring compressor fitted15.11 Offering the piston to the bore