motor hall sensor test
The Hall Sensor Test diagnostic feature in GTB 2 allows you to easily check the sensors in the brushless motor connected to the ESC to determine if they are operating normally. This will help you pinpoint the cause of problems in your system, and hopefully reduce the down time and expenses associated with sending your product in for service when you can resolve the issue yourself.
To access this feature, simply follow these steps:
1.Follow the steps in the ‘CUSTOM PROGRAMMING OPTIONS’ section to access the Hall Sensor Test option via the ESC’s SET button.
2.Slowly rotate the motor’s output/pinion shaft. If motor is installed in a vehicle, slowly rotate the drive train so that the motor also rotates.
3.The status LEDs on the speed control should cycle through illuminating the BLUE, YELLOW, and RED status LEDs.
If the BLUE, YELLOW, and RED LEDs light up one after another as the motor’s shaft is rotated, the Hall Sensors in the motor are operating normally.
If any one of the BLUE, YELLOW, or RED status LEDs do not light while rotating the motor’s shaft, there is a either a problem with the Sensor Harness Cable (or its connections either at the motor end or the ESC end) or with the actual Hall Effect Sensors in the motor’s timing section.
If your motor has a user-replaceable double-ended sensor harness, replace it with another one to determine if this is this source of the problem. If, after replacing the harness, all three of the LEDs still do not light up, it would appear that one of the sensors inside the motor has been damaged--replace the timing section of your motor, or if your motor is not user-rebuildable, send it in the manufacturer for the appropriate service.
voltage cut-off circuitry
The GTB 2 speed control features Novak’s Smart-Stop Voltage Cut-Off Circuitry built-in, and when used properly will allow you to safely use LiPo and LiFe type batteries, without letting the cells drop below their critical safety voltage during operation.
The default setting in the speed control is that the Voltage Cut-Off is turned ON and is set to LiPo. If you are using NiMH or NiCd cells, you will need to switch the Voltage Cut-Off feature OFF. If you are using LiFe cells, you will need to switch the Voltage Cut-Off feature to the LiFe battery setting.
Note: Whenever the speed control’s One-Touch Programming is performed, this setting will revert to the LiPo default setting.
DO NOT USE LiPo/LiFe BATTERIES WITH
VOLTAGE CUT-OFF TURNED OFF
temperature monitoring
The GTB 2 has a built-in diagnostic temperature monitoring feature that lets you quickly check the ESC’s operating temperature at any time.
While connected to a battery and powered ON, simply tap the ESC’s SET button and one of the on-board LED lights will flash 4 times to indicate the operating temperature of the speed control.
WHITE flashing LED = normal operating temp--under 135°F (57°C). BLUE flashing LED = medium operating temp--136-147°F (58-64°C). YELLOW flashing LED = hot operating temp--148-167°F (65-75°C).
GREEN flashing LED = hotter operating temp--168-194°F (76-90°C). RED flashing LED = hottest operating temp--195-215°F (91-102°C).
You are now pushing the ESC extremely hard and should be very careful to avoid overheating and possible thermal shut-down.
All LEDs flashing = DANGEROUS operating temp--216-239°F (103-115°C).
Your ESC is now about to thermally shut-down.
Reduce the pinion size to avoid overheating speed control that could result in potential damage.
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trouble-shooting guide
Steering Channel Works But Motor Will Not Run
•Possible receiver damage––Check operation with a different receiver.
•Possible internal damage––Refer to ‘SERVICE PROCEDURES’ section.
•Check motor or motor connections.
•Make sure ESC is plugged into the throttle channel of receiver. Check wiring color sequence of receiver signal harness (Refer to STEP 1).
Receiver Glitches/Throttle Stutters During Acceleration
•Receiver or antenna too close to ESC, power wires, battery, or motor.
•Bad motor sensors, sensor harness, or connections––Check wiring, sensor harness, & connections, perform hall sensor test (Refer to ‘MOTOR HALL SENSOR TEST’ section).
•Low voltage to receiver––Try Novak Glitch Buster capacitor on receiver to help retain power during high current draw situations (Novak accessory #5626).
•Power Trans-Cap Module damaged/missing––Replace Power Trans-Cap Module.
•Battery pack damaged or weak––Try a different battery pack.
•Motor magnet weak or overheated––Replace rotor (Refer to motor manufacturer’s website).
•Excessive current to motor—Use a milder motor or a smaller pinion gear.
•Untidy wires or signal and power wired bundled together. Input harness and servo wires should be bundled separately. Power wires should be as short as possible.
Motor and Steering Servo Do Not Work
•Check wires, receiver signal harness wiring & color sequence, radio system, crystals, battery/motor connectors, & battery pack.
•Possible receiver damage––Check operation with a different receiver.
•Possible internal damage––Refer to Service Procedures.
Motor Runs Backward
•Reverse motor rotation direction––Refer to ‘CUSTOM PROGRAMMING OPTIONS’ section.
•Improper One-Touch set up––Refer to ‘ONE-TOUCH PROGRAMMING’ section.
Speed Control Runs Excessively Hot
•Gear ratio too low––Increase gear ratio/Reduce pinion (refer to ‘PROPER GEAR SELECTION’).
•Motor is damaged––Try a different motor.
Model Runs Slowly/Slow Acceleration
•Gear ratio too high––Reduce gear ratio/Increase pinion (refer to ‘PROPER GEAR SELECTION’).
•Check battery & connectors––Check battery pack & connectors. Replace if needed.
•Incorrect transmitter/ESC adjustment––Refer to ‘TRANSMITTER ADJUSTMENTS’.
•Power Trans-Cap Module damaged/missing––Replace Power Trans-Cap Module.
ESC Is Melted Or Burnt/ESC Runs With Switch Off
• Internal damage––Refer to Service Procedures.
No Power to the BEC
•Check power wire connections to your battery, ESC and BEC unit.
•Check that the input harness from the BEC is plugged into the receiver correctly and the red wire from the ESC’s input harness is removed.
•Be sure that the BEC unit switch is turned ON.
error/LED codes
•Blue status LED on solid at neutral––Minimum Brake is set to value greater than 0%.
•Yellow status LED on solid at neutral––Drag Brake is set to value greater than 0%.
•Red & Green status LEDs on solid––Check input signal harness connections at ESC and receiver. Check input signal harness wiring sequence––Refer to STEP 1.
•Red status LED on solid & Green LED blinking––Check motor sensor harness connection. Possible internal motor damage.
•Blue & Green status LEDs both blinking. Possible ESC shut-down due to locked rotor detection––return throttle to neutral position to regain motor control––check vehicle’s drive train for free operation.
•Blue & Red status LEDs blinking. Possible ESC thermal shut-down––Check gear ratio & free operation of drive train for possible overloading/ESC is being severely over- loaded––allow system to cool & return throttle to neutral position to regain motor control. LEDs will continue to blink until system is cooled down.
•Blue & Yellow status LEDs blinking. Possible Motor thermal shut-down––Check gear ratio & free operation of drive train for possible overloading/Motor is being severely over-loaded––allow system to cool & return throttle to neutral position to regain motor control. LEDs will continue to blink until system is cooled down.
•Blue & Green (Locked Rotor Detection), Blue & Red (ESC Thermal Shut-Down), or Blue & Yellow (Motor Thermal Shut-Down) status LEDs blinking. ESC may have shutdown & ESC’s neutral point is too far off to sense that transmitter throttle has been returned to neutral (Refer to ‘ONE-TOUCH’ & ‘TRANSMITTER ADJUSTMENTS’).
•Green & White status LEDs blinking. RPM safety limit reached & physical limit of motor bearings being reached/Possible over-rev condition. Increase gear ratio or reduce pinion.
•White status LED blinking. ESC timing is turned ON. ESC is operating normal.
•Red & Green status LEDs toggling. LiPo/LiFe Safety Cut-Off voltage reached. Remove and charge/replace battery pack.
Check Novak’s web site for additional information.
gTB 2 track guide
#55-1709P-1 Rev.2 |
2-2011 |
The GTB 2 Racing Brushless ESC (Novak part number #1709) is factory loaded with a dozen programmable features. While this may seem overwhelming at first glance, this GTB 2 Track Guide was designed to keep with you at the track to use as a quick-reference and help walk you through the programming of all of the speed control’s features.
Take the time to thoroughly read through this programming guide before operation to fully understand the different ESC parameters, and how they can be used to fine tune your ESC’s feel and performance. Most importantly, enjoy all of the technical benefits and features the GTB 2 ESC has to offer.
Visit our web site for the most up to date information and to learn more about other Novak products and services.
esc parameters
1. |
Minimum Brake (1 of 10)........................................................... |
0-30% |
2. |
Drag Brake (1 of 10).................................................................. |
0-30% |
3. |
Minimum Drive (1 or 10)........................................................... |
0-15% |
4. |
Dead Band (1 of 5)...................................................................... |
2-8% |
5. |
Throttle Curve (1 of 2)............................................. |
Linear/Exponential |
6. |
Brake Curve (1 of 2)................................................. |
Linear/Exponential |
7. |
Brake Frequency (1 of 10)............................................... |
1.67-13.7KHz |
8. |
Brake End Point (1 of 10)....................................................... |
10-100% |
9. |
Drive Frequency (1 of 10)....................................................... |
7-16KHz |
10.Reverse.................................................................................. |
OFF/ON |
|
11.Motor Rotation.................................................................... |
CCW/CW |
|
12.Voltage Cut-Off............................................................. |
OFF-LiPo-LiFe |
|
one-touch programming
With the ESC connected to (at least) a charged battery pack, the receiver, and the brushless motor’s sensor harness:
1.TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER’S POWER
2.PRESS & HOLD ESC’S ONE-TOUCH/SET BUTTON
3.TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL’S POWER
With transmitter throttle at neutral, and still pressing the SET button, slide the ESC’s ON/OFF switch to ON position.
4.CONTINUE HOLDING SET BUTTON UNTIL RED LED COMES ON
5.RELEASE SET BUTTON AS SOON AS LED TURNS RED
6.PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-ON POSITION
Hold it there until the green status LED turns solid green.
Note: Motor will not run during programming even if connected.
7.PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-BRAKE/REVERSE
Hold it there until the green status LED blinks green.
8.RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL
The red status LED will turn solid red, indicating that the ESC is at neutral and that proper programming has been completed. Blue & yellow LEDs will also be on indicating Minimum Brake (blue) & Drag Brake (yellow) settings are at levels above 0%.
If transmitter settings are changed, the One-Touch Programming must be repeated. If you experience any problems, turn off ESC and repeat One-Touch.
NOTE: Whenever the One-Touch Programming set-up is performed, the speed control will automatically revert back to the factory-default settings.
proper gear selection
Motor operating temperature is the ONLY way to properly set vehicle gearing
The Motor and Speed Control should not exceed 160°F MAX at any time during run!
Change the gearing to avoid overheating!
DO NOT FREE-REV MOTOR!
Free-running your brushless motor in a no-load condition can cause rotor failure & ESC transistor damage that will not be covered by the product’s warranty.
Because of the potential danger of overheating and ESC/motor damage and failure, you must start with VERY small pinion sizes and check the speed control and motor operating temperatures at multiple times throughout the initial runs after installation. This is the only way to ensure that you are not causing excessive heating.
If ESC & motor temperatures remain low & stable, you can slowly increase the pinion size while again monitoring the temperatures to determine the safe gearing for your vehicle, motor, and climate/track conditions. Because these variables can change or be modified, you MUST continually monitor ESC & motor temperatures to protect your electronics from damage.
transmitter adjustments
Transmitter adjustments may not be required to properly complete the One-Touch programming of the speed control. However, should you have any problems completing the ONE-TOUCH PROGRAMMING, adjust the settings on your transmitter as listed below, then repeat the ONETOUCH PROGRAMMING as described in Step 5.
THROTTLE CHANNEL ADJUSTMENTS
A.Set HIGH ATV or EPA to 100%. [amount of throw at full throttle]
B.Set LOW ATV, EPA, or ATL to 100%. [amount of throw at full brakes]
C.Set EXPONENTIAL to zero setting. [throttle channel linearity]
D.Set THROTTLE CHANNEL REV. SWITCH to either position.
E.Set THROTTLE CHANNEL TRIM to middle setting.
[adjusts neutral position/increases or decreases coast brakes]
F.Set ELECTRONIC TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to 70% throttle and
30% brake throw (or 7:3)–best for racing ESCs. Set to 50% throttle and 50% brake for full time use with reverse to get the best performance in reverse.
[adjusts trigger throw electronic/digital pistol-grip transmitters]
G.Set MECHANICAL TRIGGER THROW ADJUSTMENT to position with
2/3 throttle and 1/3 brake throw.
[adjusts trigger throw mechanical/analog pistol-grip transmitters]
•NOT ALL TRANSMITTERS HAVE ALL OF THESE ADJUSTMENTS•
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Good Quality Radio System Suggested
With the higher performance of brushless systems, undesirable radio system noise may occur when used with lower quality radio systems. 2.4GHz radio systems are the best to use. FM radio systems are acceptable, as long as the system is high quality. AM radio systems are not recommended.
2.4 GHz |
FM |
AM |
Best to use |
OK to use |
Do not use |
P8 |
P5 |
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