OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Part #1767
Part #1765
CYCLONE & CYCLONETC
The Novak Cyclone and CycloneTC touring edition are alldigital, microprocessor-based ESC’s (Electronic Speed Controls) using advanced components and the best HYPERFET III transistors to deliver the highest performance with the smallest size and lightest weight. Each have three userselectable throttle profiles and the ability to store a fourth custom profile created by the optional Pit Wizard (#1035), giving you extreme flexibility.
Novak’s Constant Force Braking provides more effective braking at lower motor RPMs, while a minimum brake adjustment pot lets you set initial braking from 0-75%.
Low-resistance solder posts and Super-Flex™ wire give minimal voltage drop and high current handling, while allowing quick and easy wire replacement and positioning.
Novak’s Polar Drive Circuitry gives you increased power and reduced operating temperatures. This means even smoother throttle response, increased radio system range, quicker acceleration, and longer run times.
Other features include the original One-Touch Set-Up™,
Radio Priority & Digital Anti-Glitch Circuitry™, a heavyduty BEC to handle high power servos, and low-voltage operation down to 2 volts.
SPECIFICATIONS
Input Voltage |
4-7 cells (1.2 volts DC/cell) |
||
Case Width |
1.73 inches |
[4.40 cm] |
|
Case Depth |
1.10 inches |
[2.79 cm] |
|
Case Height |
0.79 inch |
[1.99 cm] |
|
Weight (w/o heat sinks) |
1.42 ounces |
[40.26 g] |
|
|
|
|
|
On-Resistance @ Transistors |
0.00058Ω |
|
@ 25°C transistor |
Rated Current |
480 amps |
|
|
|
junction temp. |
||
Braking Current |
160 amps |
|
|
BEC Voltage / Current |
6.0 volts DC / 3.0 amps |
||
Wire (Battery/Motor) |
Super-Flex™ |
|
|
Wire Length (Battery/Motor) |
9 inches |
[22.8 cm] |
|
Signal Harness Length |
8 inches |
[20.3 cm] |
|
Minimum Brake Range |
0 to 75 % Full Brake |
||
Minimum Drive (% Full Drive) |
6.0-6.0-1.5 (TC: 1.0-2.0-3.0) |
||
Deadband (% Full Throttle) |
6.0-6.0-7.0 (TC: 7.0-3.0-3.0) |
||
Drive Frequency (kHz) |
5.86-7.8-15.6 (TC: 15.6-11.7-7.8) |
||
Brake Frequency (kHz) |
3.9-5.86-3.9 (TC: 3.9-5.86-7.8) |
||
STEP 1
CHANGING THE INPUT HARNESS
The Cyclone & CycloneTC ESCs come with the industry standard input harness connector. This connector works with all major radio brands. However, with some older style receivers the sequence of the wires in the plastic connector housing needs to be changed. This is an important step, because the electronics inside the receiver may be damaged if the wiring sequence is incorrect. Changing the sequence is easily accomplished as described below.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
If your receiver is a JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, or an Airtronics Z you do not need to change the sequence of the ESC’s input harness wires. The new Airtronics Z receiver has a blue colored plastic case. The new KO cases have tabs on the input harness openings as shown in Figure 1.
•Insert the input plug into the receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of the receiver case.
FIGURE 1 |
FIGURE 2 |
||||
tabs |
no tabs |
||||
|
|
black |
|
|
red |
|
|
wires |
|
|
wires |
|
|
|
|
||
New KO (with tabs) |
Old KO (no tabs) |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If your receiver is an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence of the ESC’s input harness wires. Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black in color. Old KO cases do not have the tab openings (See Figure 2).
•Interchange the red and black wires in the plug plastic of the ESC’s input harness as shown in Figure 3 below.
•Insert the input plug into the receiver with the RED wire toward the outside edge of the receiver case.
FIGURE 3 With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift the plastic prong until the wire and metal socket easily slides out of the plastic housing. Repeat for each wire.
STEP 2
MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
1.DETERMINE BEST ESC MOUNTING LOCATION
Speed control should be positioned away from the receiver and antenna as shown in set-up photo (back page). Choose a mounting position that will keep power wires away from the receiver and antenna. Choose position that will provide maximum airflow through transistor tabs or heat sinks to allow for proper cooling.
2.INSTALL THE SPEED CONTROL
Use the included double-sided tape to mount ESC.
3.INSTALL THE ON/OFF SWITCH
Determine a convenient place to mount the switch where it will be easy to get to. Mount switch using a piece of double-sided tape or with a screw through the hole in the base of the switch housing.
4.INSTALL THE RECEIVER AND ANTENNA
Mount receiver as far from ESC, motor, power wires, battery, and servo as possible. These components all emit radio noise when the throttle is being applied. On graphite or aluminum, it may help to place the receiver on edge with the crystal and antenna as far above the chassis as possible. Mount the antenna close to the receiver and trail any excess wire off the top of the antenna mast.
Cutting or coiling excess wire will reduce radio range.
PRECAUTIONS
•WATER & ELECTRONICS DON’T MIX! Do not operate model in or around water. Never allow water, moisture, or other foreign materials to get inside the ESC.
•4 to 7 CELLS ONLY Never use more than 7 cells (8.4 volts DC) in the main battery pack.
•MOTOR CAPACITORS REQUIRED Three 0.1µF (50V) ceramic capacitors must be properly installed on every motor to prevent radio interference.
•POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED An external power capacitor must be used to ensure the highest efficiency and best protection for your Cyclone or CycloneTC.
•NO REVERSE VOLTAGE! Reverse battery polarity can damage speed control––Disconnect battery immediately.
•DON’T LET TRANSISTOR TABS TOUCH Never allow the two transistor tab banks to touch each other or any exposed metal. The short circuit will damage the ESC.
•DISCONNECTTHE BATTERIES Always disconnect the battery pack from the speed control when not in use.
•TRANSMITTER ON FIRST Always turn on the power of your transmitter first so that you will have control of the radio equipment when you turn on the speed control.
•DON’T GET BURNT! Transistor tabs can get hot, so be careful. If transistor tabs get extremely hot use optional heat sinks.
•INSULATE WIRES Always insulate exposed wiring with heat shrink tubing to prevent short circuits.
STEP 3 |
Refer to Set-Up photo on back |
|
HOOK-UP INSTRUCTIONS
1.INSTALL MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric motors generate radio noise that can interfere with your receiver and cause radio problems. Included in the accessory kit with the ESC are three 0.1µF (50V) nonpolarized, ceramic capacitors. These capacitors must be installed on every motor to help reduce noise generated by the motor and also to prevent possible ESC damage.
Solder 0.1µF (50V) capacitors between:
•POSITIVE (+) motor tab & NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
•POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
•NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
*If motor has no ground tab, solder the capacitors to motor can. Negative (–) motor tab
0.1µF Capacitors
Schottky diode
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
Extra 0.1µF capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620.
2.INSTALL SCHOTTKY DIODE
Solder the lead CLOSEST to the silver stripe on the body of the Schottky diode to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
Solder the lead OPPOSITE the silver stripe on the body of the Schottky to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
If installed backwards, a Schottky diode will be destroyed. The body of a bad diode will normally crack open. Replace only with Schottky diodes that have a minimum rating of 35 volts / 8 amps.
Schottky diodes are available in Novak kit #5640.
3.INSTALL POWER CAPACITOR
The included power capacitor will drop the speed control’s operating temperatures by 10-15°F, and will help dissipate noise and voltage spikes from the ESC’s high switching speed.
To allow greater flexibility for your application, you can install the power capacitor up against the side or back of the ESC, or heat shrink it along the power wires.
To install capacitor alongside the speed control:
Use included double-sided tape to hold the capacitor against the side or back of the speed control’s case.
Bend negative lead (–) {shorter/marked with stripe} toward the
BLK solder post. Insulate lead with included vinyl tubing. Solder negative lead (–) to the BLK solder post.
Bend positive lead (+) {longer/unmarked} toward the RED solder post. Insulate lead with included vinyl tubing.
Solder positive lead (+) to the RED solder post.
negative lead (–) with stripe 
Insulate leads with vinyl tubing
ACCESSORIES
MOTOR CAPACITORS
To prevent radio interference, you must have three 0.1µF capacitors properly installed on every motor. Three 0.1µF (50v) capacitors are included for one motor. Additional 0.1µF (50V) capacitors are available in Novak kit #5620. Refer to Step 3 for motor capacitor installation instructions.
SCHOTTKY DIODES
The Cyclone and CycloneTC have an internal Schottky diode. An external Schottky diode is included, and should be used for optimum ESC, braking, and motor performance. Refer to Step 3 for installation instructions.
Additional Schottky diodes are available in Novak kit #5640.
HEAT SINKS
Heat sinks are not required with the Cyclone or CycloneTC. However, added cooling from heat sinks can increase efficiency. An optional Heat Sink Set is available as Novak kit #5407. Heat sinks are recommended for heavy load applications and set-ups with limited air circulation, or if the transistors get excessively hot during operation.
POWER CAPACITORS
An external power capacitor is included, and must be used to maintain cool and smooth operation.
Refer to Step 3 for installation instructions.
Additional Power Capacitors are available in Novak kit #5670.
STEP 3
HOOK-UP INSTRUCTIONS (Cont.)
To install capacitor along the ESC’s power wires:
Install capacitor as close to the speed control as possible.
Make a small splice on the black and red power wires. Solder the negative lead (–) to the splice on the black wire. Solder the positive lead (+) to the splice on the red wire.
Secure power capacitor to power wires with included large heat shrink to insulate and protect from vibration.
4.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE RECEIVER
After the input harness wires have been configured to match the receiver (Refer to Step 1), plug the speed control into the THROTTLE CHANNEL of the receiver.
5.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE BATTERY PACK
Cut the BLACK wire to the desired length and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Solder to the negative side of a completely charged 4 to 7 cell battery pack and the other end to the BLK solder post.
Cut the RED wire to desired length (to go from ESC to battery positive to motor) and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Strip a short section of insulation (1/4”-3/8”) from the middle section of the RED wire where it will attach to positive of battery pack. Solder the stripped section of RED wire to positive of battery pack and one end to the RED solder post.
NOTE: Prolonged or excessive heating of solder post can result in the post desoldering from PCB and short-circuiting.
6.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE MOTOR
Solder the free end of the RED wire to positive motor tab.
Cut the BLUE wire to desired length and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Solder to the negative tab of the motor and to the BLUE solder post.
TIP: Twisting the BLUE & RED motor wires one or two times around each other as they go to motor can help reduce any radio noise that may be emitted from the power wires.
7.USING PLUGS FOR BATTERY & MOTOR CONNECTION
High-quality/low-resistance connector plugs, such as Dean’s Ultra Plugs, can also be used to connect the motor and battery pack. While connectors make component changes quick and easy, they will never have the low resistance of a good solder joint.
Use connectors that can not be connected backwards.
It is good practice to use female connectors on batteries to avoid shorting the connector and the battery.
If you use connectors for the battery and the motor, use a male connector on the ESC wires going to the battery and a female connector on the wires going to the motor. By doing this, you will avoid plugging the battery into the motor output of the ESC by mistake.
Loading...