OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Part #1777
Part #1775
CycloneC2 & CycloneTC2
The CycloneC2 & CycloneTC2 touring edition are all-digital, microprocessor-based ESC’s (Electronic Speed Controls) using advanced components and the best HYPERFET III transistors available, to deliver the highest performance with compact size and light weight. Each have three user-selectable throttle profiles and the ability to store a fourth custom profile created by the optional Pit Wizard (#1035/older Pit Wizards requires adaptor #5710), giving you extreme flexibility.
Novak’s original One-Touch Set-Up™ button now performs double duty as a Combination One-Touch/ON-OFF switch.
Constant Force Braking provides more effective braking at lower motor RPMs, while a minimum brake adjustment pot lets you set initial braking from 0-75%.
Novak’s Polar Drive Circuitry gives you increased power and reduced operating temperatures. This means even smoother throttle response, increased radio system range, quicker acceleration, and longer run times.
Other features include Low-Resistance Solder Posts (minimal voltage drop & high current handling) for quick and easy wire replacement and positioning, heavy-duty BEC for high power servos, Digital Anti-Glitch Circuitry™, and Radio Priority Circuitry™ to maintain steering control after battery dumps.
SPECIFICATIONS
Input Voltage |
4-7 cells (1.2 volts DC/cell) |
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Case Width |
1.69 inches |
[4.29 cm] |
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Case Depth |
1.11 inches |
[2.81 cm] |
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Case Height |
0.76 inch |
[1.93 cm] |
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Weight (w/o heat sinks) |
1.33 ounces |
[37.70 g] |
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On-Resistance @ Transistors |
0.00049 Ω |
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@ 25°C transistor |
Rated Current |
480 amps |
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junction temp. |
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Braking Current |
160 amps |
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BEC Voltage |
6.0 volts DC |
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BEC Current |
3.0 amps |
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Wire Length (Battery/Motor) |
9 inches |
[22.8 cm] |
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Signal Harness (replaceable) |
9 inches |
[20.3 cm] |
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Minimum Brake Range |
0 to 75 % Full Brake |
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Minimum Drive (% Full Drive) |
2.0-6.0-4.0 (TC2: 2.0-3.0-5.0) |
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Deadband (% Full Throttle) |
5.0-5.0-5.0 (TC2: 5.0-3.0-3.0) |
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Drive Frequency (kHz) |
15.6-5.86-7.8 (TC2: 15.6-11.7-7.8) |
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Brake Frequency (kHz) |
3.9-3.9-5.86 (TC2: 3.9-5.86-11.7) |
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STEP 1
CHANGING THE INPUT HARNESS
The CycloneC2 & CycloneTC2 ESCs come with the industry standard connector on a user-replaceable input harness. This connector works with all major radio brands. However, with some older style receivers the sequence of the wires in the plastic connector needs to be changed. This is an important step, because the electronics inside the receiver may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect. Changing the wiring is easily accomplished as described below.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
If your receiver is a JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, or an Airtronics Z (blue case) you do not need to change the sequence of the ESC's input harness wires. New KO cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in Figure 1.
•Insert one end of the input harness into receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
•Insert opposite end of input harness into ESC with the
WHITE wire toward the ‘WHT’ marking on the case label.
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FIGURE 1 |
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FIGURE 2 |
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tabs |
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white |
no tabs |
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white |
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red |
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wires |
black |
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wires |
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wires |
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black |
wires |
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red |
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wires |
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wires |
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New KO (with tabs) |
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Old KO (no tabs) |
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Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If your receiver is an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence of the ESC's input harness wires. Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black in color. Old KO cases do not have the tab openings (See Figure 2).
•Insert one end of input harness into ESC with the WHITE wire toward the ‘WHT’ marking on the case label.
•Interchange the red and black wires in the plug plastic at the opposite end of input harness as in Figure 3 below.
•Insert modified end of the harness into the receiver with the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
FIGURE 3 With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift the plastic prong until the wire and metal socket easily slides out of the plastic housing. Repeat for each wire.
STEP 2
MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
1.DETERMINE BEST ESC MOUNTING LOCATION
Speed control should be positioned away from the receiver and antenna as shown in set-up photo (back page). Choose a mounting position that will keep power wires away from the receiver and antenna, and will provide maximum airflow through transistor tabs or heat sinks to allow for proper cooling.
REMEMBER: Choose a mounting position where it will be easy to get to the combination One-Touch/ ON-OFF switch on the top of the speed control. You will need to get to this to turn the ESC on and off.
2.INSTALL THE SPEED CONTROL
Use the included double-sided tape to mount ESC.
3.INSTALL THE RECEIVER AND ANTENNA
Mount receiver as far from ESC, motor, power wires, battery, and servo as possible. These components all emit radio noise when the throttle is being applied. On graphite or aluminum, it may help to place the receiver on edge with the crystal and antenna as far above the chassis as possible. Mount the antenna close to the receiver and trail any excess wire off the top of the antenna mast*.
*Cutting or coiling excess wire will reduce radio range.
PRECAUTIONS
•WATER & ELECTRONICS DON’T MIX! Do not operate model in or around water. Never allow water, moisture, or other foreign materials to get inside the ESC.
•4 to 7 CELLS ONLY Never use more than 7 cells (8.4 volts DC) in the main battery pack.
•SCHOTTKY DIODE RECOMMENDED An external Shottky diode should be properly installed on every motor to further reduce radio interference and obtain the best performance and efficiency from your CycloneC2 or CycloneTC2.
•POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED The external power capacitor must be used with your CycloneC2 or CycloneTC2.
Failure to use Power Capacitor will damage speed control !
•NO REVERSE VOLTAGE! Reverse battery polarity can damage speed control––Disconnect battery immediately.
•DON’T LET TRANSISTOR TABS TOUCH Never allow the two transistor tab banks to touch each other or any exposed metal. The short circuit will damage the ESC.
•DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES Always disconnect the battery pack from the speed control when not in use.
•TRANSMITTER ON FIRST Always turn on the power of your transmitter first so that you will have control of the radio equipment when you turn on the speed control.
•DON’T GET BURNT! Transistor tabs can get hot, so be careful. If transistor tabs get extremely hot use optional heat sinks.
•INSULATE WIRES Always insulate exposed wiring with heat shrink tubing to prevent short circuits.
STEP 3 |
Refer to Set-Up photo on back |
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HOOK-UP INSTRUCTIONS
1.MOTOR CAPACITORS
The CycloneC2 and TC2 have motor capacitors installed inside the speed control. Capacitors are not required on motor.
Note: Many other ESCs still require that these capacitors be installed on every motor to help reduce radio noise.
2.INSTALL SCHOTTKY DIODE
Solder the lead CLOSEST to the silver stripe on the body of the Schottky diode to the POSITIVE (+) motor tab.
Solder the lead OPPOSITE the silver stripe on the body of the Schottky to the NEGATIVE (–) motor tab.
If installed backwards, a Schottky diode will be destroyed. The body of a bad diode will normally crack open. Replace only with Schottky diodes that have a minimum rating of 35 volts / 8 amps.
FIGURE 4 (Extra Schottky diodes available in Novak kit #5640)
Negative (–) motor tab
Schottky diode
Positive (+) motor tab
3.INSTALL POWER CAPACITOR
WHY POWER CAPACITOR IS NEEDED: The power capacitor drops the ESC’s operating temperature by 10-15° F, and dissipates noise & voltage spikes from the ESC’s high switching speed. You MUST use Novak capacitors. Other capacitors with similar ratings will not provide the same protection. We have done extensive research to find capacitors with the very best Quality Factors.
•Determine best place to mount Power Capacitor. If mounting capacitor standing on end, bend capacitor’s leads flat along top of capacitor (Figure 5A).
If mounting capacitor laying down, bend capacitor’s leads flat along top of capacitor, then down over the side of the capacitor (Figure 5B).
•Cut capacitor’s leads so that both leads will be equally held by PowerCap Harness. Insulate the exposed leads of the capacitor with the included vinyl tubing.
•Attach PowerCap Harness to the leads of the capacitor. Insert negative lead (–) {marked with stripe} into the opening leading to the BLACK wire. Insert positive lead (+) {unmarked} into the opening leading to the RED wire.
•Use the included double-sided tape to hold capacitor against side or back of ESC, or onto chassis (Figure 5A/5B).
FIGURE 5 |
[A] |
red wire |
[B] |
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black wire |
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neg. lead (–) {with stripe}
ACCESSORIES
SCHOTTKY DIODES
The C2 & TC2s have internal Schottky diodes. An external diode is also included and should be used for optimum ESC, braking, and motor performance. Refer to Step 3
Additional Schottky diodes are available in Novak kit #5640.
HEAT SINKS
Heat sinks are not required with the C2 or TC2, however the added cooling will increase the ESC’s efficiency. An optional Heat Sink Set is available as Novak kit #5407. Heat sinks are recommended for heavy load applications and set-ups with limited air circulation, or whenever ESC gets excessively hot.
POWER CAPACITORS
An external power capacitor is included, and MUST BE USED to maintain cool and smooth operation. Refer to Step 3
Replacement Power Capacitor is available in Novak kit #5675.
SOLDER POST WIRE SETS
Replacement C2 & TC2 solder post wire sets are available in Novak kit #5537 and includes two 9” pieces of each color power wire.
INPUT SIGNAL HARNESS
The user-replaceable input signal harness is available in both short (4.5”) and long (9.0”) lengths to fit different applications.
4.5” harness in Novak kit #5315, and 9.0” harness in kit #5320.
PIT WIZARD-To-C2/TC2 ADAPTOR HARNESS
To connect to the C2 & TC2’s new DataLink connector, older Pit Wizards (or ESC Profile Software) require the Pit Wizard-To-C2/ TC2 Adapter Harness available in Novak kit #5710.
STEP 3
HOOK-UP INSTRUCTIONS (Cont.)
4.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE RECEIVER
Configure input harness wires and connect ESC to the THROTTLE CHANNEL of receiver as described in Step 1.
5.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE BATTERY PACK
Cut the BLACK wire to the desired length and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Solder to the negative side of a completely charged 4 to 7 cell battery pack and the other end to the BLK solder post.
Cut the RED wire to desired length (to go from ESC to battery positive to motor) and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Strip a short section of insulation (1/4”-3/8”) from the middle section of the RED wire where it will attach to positive of battery pack. Solder the stripped section of RED wire to positive of battery pack and one end to the RED solder post.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT POSTS
Prolonged or excessive heating of the solder post or the solder joint on top of the solder post will result in the post desoldering from PCB and short-circuiting inside ESC.
6.CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO THE MOTOR
Solder the free end of the RED wire to positive motor tab. Cut the BLUE wire to desired length and strip about 1/8”-1/4” of insulation off each end. Solder to the negative tab of the motor and to the BLUE solder post.
TIP: Twisting the BLUE & RED motor wires one or two times around each other as they go to motor can help reduce any radio noise that may be emitted from the power wires.
7.USING PLUGS FOR BATTERY & MOTOR CONNECTION
High-quality/low-resistance connector plugs, such as Dean’s Ultra Plugs, can also be used to connect the motor and battery pack. Note--while connectors make component changes quick and easy, they will never have as little resistance as a good solder joint.
Use connectors that can not be connected backwards!
It is good practice to use female connectors on battery packs to avoid shorting the connector and the battery.
If using connectors for both battery and motor:
To Battery
{male}
black wire
red wire
Use a male connector on the ESC wires going to the battery and a female connector on the wires going to the motor (Shown here in Figure 6).
This will help prevent you from cross connecting the battery and motor outputs of speed control, and causing internal damage.
To Motor {female}
blue wire
red wire
FIGURE 6
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