Kenmore 385.17928 User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE

MODEL 385. 17928

, _ •=:= = - ....... • ............ , .... == .............

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear CustomeP:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate

and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention

the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number

are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.

Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DA NGER- ,o.uo0the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from ,the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated

15 Watts.

3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub

or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WAR NING- reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,

or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in

this manual.

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not

working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service

center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from

accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the

needle to break.

Do not use bent needles.12.

13.

Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.

It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

i4. Switch the sewing machine off ('0") when making any adjustment in

the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when

removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION

KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avialble .............. 3

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4

Identify the Accessories ........................ 5

PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ........................ 6_10

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 6

• Foot Control Use .......................... 6

• Set the Pressure Dial ........................ 7

• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 8

• Thread Cutter ............................ 8

• Accessory Strage Box ....................... 9

• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable

Extension Table ........................ 9_10

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............ 11_14

• Check the Presser Foot ..................... 11

• Change the Presser Foot ..................... 11

• Presser Foot Types ...................... 12_14

Choose the Needle and Thread ................ 14_15

• Check the Needle ......................... 14

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 15

• To Change the Needle ...................... 15

Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 16_18

• To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ......... 16

• Horizontal Spool Pin ....................... 16

• Additional Spool Pin ....................... 16

• Bobbin W.nd.._g .......................... 17

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 18

Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 19_22

• Thread the Needle ........................ 19

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................. 20

• Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 21_22

Stitch Selector ............................. 23

Stitch Width Control ......................... 24

Stitch Length Control ........................ 24

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 24

Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 25

Starting To Sew ............................ 25

LEARN THE STITCHES

Practical Stitch Chart ...................... 26_30

Straight Stitches .......................... 31_35

• Straight Stitches .......................... 31

• Use the Seam Guides ....................... 31

• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 31

• Topstitching ............................ 32

• Sew in a Zipper ........................ 33_34

• Dropping the Feed Dogs .................... 35

• Darning ............................... 35

Zigzag Stitches ........................... 36_48

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 36

• Monogramming .......................... 36

• Satin Stitch ............................. 37

• Applique ............................... 38

• Bar Tacking ............................. 38

• Embroidery ............................. 39

• Sewa Button ............................ 40

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 41

• Blind Hemming .......................... 42

• LaceWork .............................. 43

• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 44

• Shell Stitching ........................... 45

• Box Stitching ............................ 45

• Fagoting Stitch .......................... 46

• Two-Point Shell Stitching .................... 46

• Two-Point Box Stitch ...................... 47

• Overedging Stitch ......................... 47

• Decorative with Geometic Patterns ............. 48

Stretch Stitches .......................... 49_53

• Straight Stretch .......................... 49

• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 49

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 50

• Smocking .............................. 50

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 51

• Elastic Stretch Stitch ....................... 51

• Stretch Patching .......................... 52

• Herring Bone Stretch ....................... 52

• Decorative Stretch Patterns .................. 53

Buttonhole Making ........................ 54_60

• Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................. 54

• Built-in System ........................ 55_56

• Using Buttonhole Attachment (Optional Item) .... 57_60

Twin Needle Stitches (Optional Item) .............. 61

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLESM CHART

What to do When ......................... 62_63

SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE

Replace the Light Bulb ....................... 64

Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... 64

Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. 65

Oiling the Machine .......................... 65

PARTS LIST ...................................... 66_67

INDEX .......................................... 6B_69

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then

your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where.

Top Thread Tension Control

Thread Spool Pin

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Width Control

Stitch Length Control

I I

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Hook Cover Plate

Hook Cover Plate Release Button

Base

Extension Table (Accessory storage box)

Guide Message Window

"_ Reverse Stitch

Control

ArmCoverPlate

Hand Wheel

Push-Pull Clutch

Stitch Selector

Stretch Stitch Adjuster

Carrying Handle

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Drop Feed Lever

Presser Foot Thumb Screw

Presser Foot

Snap-on Button

Thread Guide

Needle Clamp

Light and Power Switch

Plug Co0nector

Nomenclature Plate

Foot Control

Bobbin Buttonhole opener

Needle set

Lint brush

Small spool holder

Large screw driver Small screw driver

Zipper foot

Straight stitch foot

Additional spool pin

Siiding buttonhole foot

Spool pin felt

Large spool holder

Satin stitch foot

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

Power supply plug Power

• Foot Control Use

Plug \

connector

Machine plug

NOTE:

1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110to 120

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

Before inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF.

Volt AC outlet.

outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.

Sewing light Light and _1

Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine wilt not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the

light/power switch to prevent injury to children.

power switch

The foot control which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the ball of your foot.

To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

_Uli_ _llylltly,

NOTE:

The foot control is sensitive and

will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to

your taste and needs.

Foot control

regulates the speed at

Set the Pressure Dial

Pressure control

dial

Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows.

3 .....

2 .....

1 .....

most sewing applique and Cut-Out work

sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics. Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).

0 .....

manual darning and embroidery

NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so

the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use it.

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

,Normal up

position I J I F jHigh

\ | I I _-_ P°siti°n

position \ _--I-----rt--'r_',_ \

x \ _!_._._',?,. _ \ Normal up \ X I_ "_t_" position

_ _ \ Presser foot

_ I lever

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your

presser foot.

You can raise it ahnut !/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

foot.

• Thread Cutter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

handy thread cutter.

Accessory Storage Box

The lid of the accessory storage box lifts

open toward you.

Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box.

= Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.

To remove:

This feature makes sewing easy for:

To Remove the Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull it gently toward you. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach:

Extension table

(Accessory storage box)

!i:i!i¸!! ¸

* Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets

and waistlines on ready-made or home-

made garments to avoid fabric bunching

around the needle.

Slot

_. _,J

To Attach the Extension Table

(for flat-bed sewing)

1. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pants legs, or any circular garment area.

.............. _E

Darning socks or mending knees, elbows, or areas of wear in children's clothes.

_J L

Sewing bu_ons on sleeves, wd _Lud d_,

etc.

• Check the PresserFoot

The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know

what each foot does in order to use them effectively.

Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely

snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.

If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do:

• Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the

Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various

presserfeet.

To Remove:

Foot

holder screw

N. J "_,

To Remove: To Attach:

Turn the screw toward the back of 1. Match

the machine. Use the large screw driver.

To Attach:

" Presserbar _"_T' t

_ I_

holder with the threaded hole in the presser bar.

Fit the foot holder screw into

the hole.

Tighten the screw by turning it toward you.

the hole in the foot

To Snap Off:

k__

Snap-on

butt on

To Snap Off the Presser Foot:

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Raise the presser foot.

3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser foot will drop off.

• Change the Presser Foot (Continued)

• PresserFoot Types

Zigzag Foot

Straight Foot

To Snap On

To Snap On the Presser Foot:

1. Place the presser foot so the hori- zontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder.

Lower the presser foot holder to

lock the presser foot in place.

NOTE: If you do not hear the

presser foot snap ill place, press down on the presser

foot holder firmly until you

hear the snap.

A: Zigzag foot

Use this

stitcing. Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 3_6),

foot for both straight and zigzag

Bar tacking (see page 3_88), Button sewing (see page 40),

Overcast stitch (see page 41), Lace work (see page 4_33), Three-step zigzag (see page 44), Box stitching (see page 4_55), Two-point shell stitching

(see page 466),

Fagoting (see page 46),

Two-point box stitch (see page 4_7),

Overedging stitch (see page 4__]7), Rick-rack stretch (see page 4__9_9), Smocking (see page 50),

Elastic stretch (see page 5_11),

Stretch patching (see page 52),

Herring bone stretch (see page 5_22).

% H: Straight foot

[

Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only.

Uses: Straight stitching (see page 311),

Topstitching (see page 33), Straigh t stretch (see page 49).

• Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding Buttonhole Foot

Sliding buttonhole foot

Use

this foot for buttonholes of built-in

system. It is marked buttonholes accurately.

Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 55).

to measure your

:Zipper Foot

I _ E: Zipper foot

This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight.

Uses: Zipper application (see page 34).

Satin Stitch Foot

Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and outlining applique.

Uses:

Darning (see page 3_2), Monogramming (see page 3__66),

Satin stitch (see page 3_7), Applique (see page 3__88),

Shell stitching (see page 4___55), Geometric decorative stitching

(see page 4__88).

Choose _e Needle and Thread

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In the needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:

Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics

Orange (11 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics

Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics

Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative

topstitching on these fabrics (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-

stitching on these fabrics

• Check the Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

To Change the Needle

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,

Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Or9andy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Suitings, Linen,

Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,

Gabardine, Velvets,

Leather

Heavy Weight:

Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey,

Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

16-PURPLE !8 GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

11-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton

I Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap Silk A

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

2 (12 stitches per

inch)

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches

per inch)

2--3

(8-10 stitches

per inch)

3 (8 stitches per

inch)

3--4 (6-8 stitches

per inch )

2--2.5

(10-12 stitches

per inch)

Needle clamp, screw

i f /

Flat side

away from

you

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-

tion by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from your accessory storage

box.

• To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine

[

• Horizontal Spool Pin

[

Ordinary Spool

Small Spool

• Additional Spool Pin

(_) Remove

sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right.

the cover Plate by (_ Take out the bobbin.

Tilt up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as shown.

Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool.

• The small spool holder is used with narrow or small thread spools.

The additional spool pin is used to wind extra bobbins without unthreading the

machine. To use, insert the additional spool pin in the

hole. Place the felt and the spool on the pin.

• Bobbin Winding

I Horizontal Spool Pin

Additional Spool Pin

Pull the clutch knob away from the machine to disengage clutch.

(_ Draw the thread from the spool.

Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide.

(_) Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin, threading from the inside to the outside. _j Put the bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle, and push it to the right. (_) With the free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the foot control.

(_ Stop the machine when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin.

Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is fully wound, it will stop automatically.

(_) Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut the

thread as shown.

(_ Push in the clutch knobto engage clutch.

The machine will not sew until the clutch knob is pushed in.

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

1. Put the bobbin into the bobbin holder so that the thread feeds counter-clockwise (left).

2. Pull about 4 inches of thread toward you through the tension

slot _.

Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine

through the slot (_) .

4. Pull out about 15 cm (6") of thread and attach the hook cover plate.

Prepare the Top Thread

• Thread the Needle

The numbered steps above follow the numbers

on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight.

I 1

Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Raise the presser foot lever. Place the spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

4. Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide.

5. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.

6. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE: Cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.:

Prepare the Top Thread (Continued)

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the

needle thread loosely in left hand top thread, back of the presser foot, leaving 4 and rotate hand wheel toward to 6 inches of thread clear. you one complete turn.

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