Kenmore 385. 17622 User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

I SEWING MACHINE

MODEL 385. 17622

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,

please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you

obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention

the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number

are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of this booklet.

Model No. 385. Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

Serial Nc

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DANGER

An appliance should newer be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub

or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING

or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in

this manual.

• To reduce the risk of electric shock:

■To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock.

4. Newer operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Newer drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0") position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the

cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. .

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the

needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in

the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when

removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

. A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

Locate and Identify the Parts

...............................................

...................................................

Identify the Accessories...............................................................4

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine................................................................ 5~7

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

• Foot Control Use................................................................. 5

• Setting Spool Pins............................................................... 0

• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

....

• Thread Cutter ......................................................................... 0

• Free Arm Sewing; the Removable Extension Table ... 7

• Accessories Storage Box

• Change the Presser Foot Choose the Needle and Thread

• To Change the Needle

• Check the Needle

....................................................

..............................................

........................................................

................................................................

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart . . . ” ! 8 Prepare the Bobbin

..............

.................................................. 9~10

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

• Wind the Bobbin ............................................................... 9~10

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case........................... 10

Prepare the Top Thread........................................................11~12

• Thread the Needle ............................................................... 11

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................................................. 12

Adjust the Top Thread Tension.............................................13~14

Reverse Stitch Control.............................................................. 14

Stitch Selector............................................................................ 15

Stitch Length Control.................................................................. 10

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance

................................................

Starting To Sew.......................................................................... 17

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches

..................................................................1 g~22

•, Straight Stitch......................................................................... ig

• Use the Seam Guides

• Turn a Square Corner

• Topstitching

..........................................................................

...........................................................

• Left Needle Position............................................................. 19

• Sew in a Zipper................................................................20~21

• Use the Darning Plate

..........................................................

• Darning ................................................................................. 22

......................

...........................................

.....................

3~4

7 7

7~8

18 18 19

Zigzag Stitches....................................................................23~31

Basic Zigzag

Satin Stitch........................................................................... 23

........................................................................

Applique............................................................................... 24

Bar Tacking.......................................................................... 24

Sew a Button........................................................................ 25

Overcasting Stitch Three-Step Zigzag

Blind Hemming................................................................... 28

...............................................................

26 27

Lace Work.......................................................................... 29

Box Stitching........................................................................ 30

Fagoting Stitch Decorate with Geometic Patterns

tretch Stitches

Straight Stretch

Rick-Rack Stretch

Smocking Overcast Stretch Stitching Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching

Shell Stitching

....................................................................

...................................................................

.......................................

....................................................................32~35

....................................................................

....

..........................................................

.............................................................................

..................................................

.................................

31 31

32 32

33 33 34

Elastic Stretch Stitch............................................................ 34

Herring Bone Stretch

...........................................................

Decorative Stretch Patterns

................................................

Buttonbholes...................................................................... 36~37

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When

SECTIONS. CARE FOR THE MACHINE

.........................................

, 38~39

Replacing the Light Bulb........................................................... 40

Cleaning the Machine .........................................................40~41

• Clean the Feed Dogs

...........................................................

• Clean the Shuttle Race ...................................................... 4i

Oiling the Machine

....................................................................

• Oil behing the Face Cover Plate and Under

Arm Cover Plate................................................................... 42

• Oil the Underside

PARTS LIST............................................................................................................... 43

INDEX....................................................................................................................... 44

.................................................................

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any where.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever Upper Thread Guide

Thread Spool Pins

SECTION 1. KNOWTHE MACHINE

Arm Cover Plate

Identify the Accessories

Carrying Handle

.-'V' ■' ’

I n

SI iding buttonhole foot

Zipper foot

Lint brush

Straight stitch foot

Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver

Small screwdriver

Satin stitch foot

Set Up the Machine

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Foot Contro! Use

machine, be sure the power switch is

OFF.

1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet.

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one way.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are

interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the light/power switch to prevent injury to

children,

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit In a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install

the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."

"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models

385.1148XXX, 385.1158XXX, 3a5.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx, 385.1268xxx.

385.12612XXX, 385.1278XXX, 385.11607xxx, 385.12710xxx, 385.12714xxx,

385.12712XXX, 385.17622XXX, 385.11608xxx, 385.12814xxx and 385.12014xxx.

{For U.S.A. market only)

.......................

...........

XXX - represents numbers 000 through 999."

which you sew. To increase speed, gently press down with

the ball of your foot. To decrease speed, release your foot pres

sure slightly.

The foot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

100-316-005

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Setting Spool Pins • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the

machine. To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down

for storage.

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1 /4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot.

Thread Cutter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the handy thread cutter.

Pull the threads to lengthen several inches before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable • Accessory Storage Box Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

box lifts open toward you. Sewing accessories are conveni

ently located in the box.

Change the Presser Foot

the stitch you wish to sew.

To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the

presser foot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure.

Choose the Needle and Thread

• To Change the Needle

NOTE; Raise the needle bar to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it down ward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from the

accessory box.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded

needles:

Blue (11)

...........................

for stretch fabrics.

Orange (11)........................for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14)

.............................

for medium or medium-heavy

weight fabrics.

Purple (16)

.........................

for medium-heavy weight fabrics and decorative topstitching on these fabrics. (This needle has a larger

thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) .........................for heavy weight fabrics and

decorative top-stitching on these fabrics.

Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears

store.

• Check the Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Siiks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Biend, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Suitings, Linen,

Wooi Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, GabanJine, Velvet, Leather

Heavy Weight:

Coating, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on aN types of fabric

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Ciré Tricot

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

14-red

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GBEEN

11-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

Buttonhole Twist

(Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

(12 stitches per

inch)

2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)

2-3 (8-10 stitches per inch)

3 (8 stitches per inch)

3-4 (6-8 stitches

per inch)

2-2.5

(10-12 stitches

per inch)

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

Prepare the Bobbin

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover.

Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

tie, pull open latch of bobbin case. Pull bobbin case straight out of

shuttle.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

* Wind the Bobbin

bobbin.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

bobbin winding tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown.

Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread feeds clock

wise and is coming from

bobbin as shown.

Pull thread through slot of case as shown.

spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push

bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Puli thread under tension spring and through the opening as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 inches of thread from bobbin.

Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal sewing operation.

Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and release latch.

Case should lock into place when latch is released.

Prepare the Top Thread

• Thread the Needle

The numbered steps above follow the numbers

on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

4. Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.

5. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE; You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

Bring bobbin thread up by pulling

thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?

5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

top thread.

Pul! both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear.

Adjust the Top Thread Tension

For Straight Stitch

The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.

If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no

gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.

When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Choose the Correct Tension; The best tension will depend on;

------------

-------------the number of fabric layers

-------------

the stiffness and thickness of the fabric

the type of stitch

The top thread shows through the bottom of the fabric. The bottom side of the stitch will feel bumpy.

The bobbin thread will come through the top of the fabric. The top side of the stitch will feel bumpy.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

For Zigzag Stitch

In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads wiil show slightly on the bottonn side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the top tension.

Reverse Stitch Control

Top tension

Too Tight

Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight:

— Corner of each

zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics.

Top tension

Too Loose

Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose;

-----

The top thread

wiM loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together.

Just Right

_________________

Bottom side of Fabric Just Right: Minimize the amount

of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions.

Release to sew forward again.

+ 36 hidden pages

Kenmore 385. 17622 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

DANGER

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS