Kenmore 3851278191, 3851278180 Owner’s Manual

SEWING MACHINE

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial

numbe_ of _his appHerrce;The mode! number and ser_! number ....

are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewingmachine is designedand constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.

Read all instruction before using this sewingmachine.

DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock:

An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using

and before cleaning.

Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub

or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WAR NING- Toreduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,

or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this

appliance is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer ascontained in

this manual.

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not

working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service

center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where

oxigen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove

plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the

cord.

10. Keept fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12.

Do not use bent needles.

13.

Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.

It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14.

Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in

the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading

bobbin, or changing presserfoot, and the like.

15.

Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when marking any other user servicing

adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a

polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,

reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install

the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."

"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models

385.1148x x x, 385.1158x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.1258x x x, 385.1268x x x,

385.12612x x x , 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710x x x, 385.12714x x x,

385,!2712x×x, 385.17'622xx×, 385.t_)8×xx, 385,12814xx x and 385,12014xxx.

(For U.S.A. market only)

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION

1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

A Portable Caseor Cabinet isAvailable .............. 2

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3

Identify the Accessories........................ 3

PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 4

• Foot Control Use .......................... 4

• Setting Spool Pin .......................... 5

• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 5

• Thread Cutter ............................ 5

• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table .... 6

• Accessory Storage Box ...................... 6

• Change the Presser Foot ...................... 6

Choose Your Needle and Thread ................ 6_7

• To Change Your Needle ...................... 6

• Check Your Needle ......................... 7

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 7

Prepare the Bobbin ......................... 8_9

= To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 8

• Wind the Bobbin ........................ 8_9

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ............ 9

Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 10_11

• Thread Your Needle ....................... 10

• Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. 11

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 12_13

Stitch Selector ............................. 14

Stitch Length Control ........................ 14

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 15

Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 15

Starting To Sew ............................ 16

3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches .......................... 17_18

• Straight Stitch ........................... 17

• Use the Seam Guides ....................... 17

• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 17

• Use the Darning Plate ...................... 18

• Topstitching ............................ 18

• Left Needle Position ....................... 18

Darning ................................. 19

Straight Stretch ............................ 19

Zigzag Stitches ........................... 20_26

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 20

• Satin Stitch ............................. 21

• Applique ............................... 22

• Bar Tacking ............................. 22

• Sew a Button ............................ 23

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 24

• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 24

• Overcast Stretch Stitching

(Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) ............. 25

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching

(Model 12781 and 12681 ) ................... 25

• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 26

Lace Work (Models 12781,12681 and 12581) ........ 26

Blind Hemming (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581 ) ..... 27

Buttonholes ............................. 28_29

Sew in a Zipper .......................... 30_31

Shell Stitching (Model 12781 and 12681 ) ........... 32

Smocking ................................ 32

Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12781 only) ........... 33

Box Stitching (Model 12781 only) ................ 33

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ......................... 34_35

SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 36

Cleaning the Machine ...................... 36_37

• Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... 36

• Clean the Shuttle Race ..................... 37

Oiling the Machine .......................... 38

• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the

Arm Cover Plate .......................... 38

• Oil the Underside ......................... 38

PARTS LIST ........................................ 39

INDEX ............................................ 40

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet isAvailable

A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then

your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever

Bobbin Winding Tension Disc

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Upper Thread Guide

Thread Spool Pin

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Length Control

Reverse Stitch Control

_Selector

Extension Table (Accessory storage box)

Shuttle Cover

SECTION 1. KNOWYOURMACHINE

Arm Cover Plate Carrying Handle

Hand Wheel

Auto Clutch Knob

Light and Power Switch

Plug Connector

Nomenclature Plate

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Identify the Accessories

Bobbin

Needle set

Darning plate

Lint brush

Large screw driver

all screw driver

Presser Foot

Foot Control

Needle Clamp Screw

Straight stitch foot

Satin stitch /_ foot

Sliding buttonhole foot

Zipper foot

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

Power supply plug

Power

switch

supply

• Foot Control Use

Plug connectol

Machine plug

NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF.

t; ,Ct_,,ek your outer _besufeit is a tlOto 120 €_hffdreni

Volt AC outlet,

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one way.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

4. Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the light/power switch to prevent injury to

light

Foot control

The foot control regulates the speed at

which you sew. To increase speed, gently press down with

the ball of your foot. To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

sure slightly.

NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and

w41| _ or _ your sewing speed imrfiediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to

regulate your sewing speed to

your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

• Setting Spool Pin

The spool pin is used for holding the spool

of thread in order to feed thread to the

machine.

To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for storage.

Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

Normal up position

High position

Presser foot lever

positior

position

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

foot.

• Thread Cutter

cutter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

handy thread cutter. Pull the threads to lengthen several inches

before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable

• Accessory Storage Box • Change the Presser Foot

Extension Table

To Remove the Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger Sewing accessories are conveni-

The lid of the accessory storage Use the correct presser foot for box lifts open toward you. the stitch you wish to sew.

To change the various presser

and thumb, asshown, ently located in the box. :_t, raise the presser bar to its

2. Puttgently to theleft. The_e_ ...........

table Will snap outl

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their

catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

........................hi_est posi{t6n b¥li_Jng the .... 1. Loosen the needle clamp===_ew by

presser foot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb

screw, choose the proper foot,

insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the

large screw driver to make

certain the foot issecure.

Choose Your Needle and Thread

• To Change Your Needle

Ne_'_e clamp screw \

Flat

side

away

from

you

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-

ward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Pushthe needle up asfar as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from your accessorybox.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded

needles:

Blue (11 ) ......... for stretch fabrics.

Orange (11 ) ........ for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy

weight fabrics.

Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics

and decorative topstitching on these fabrics. (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) ........ for heavy weight fabrics and

decorative top-stitching on these fabrics.

Replacement Kenmore needles are avialable at your nearest Sears

stores.

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,

Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voire, Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, K nits, Vinyl Suitlngs, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,

Gabardine, Velvets,

Leather

Heavy Weight:

Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching

on al! types of fabric Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey,

Stretch Terry, Spandex,

Cire Tricot

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

11-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core!Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core]Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Silk A

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

(12 stitches per

inch)

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches

per inch)

2--3

(8-10 stitches

per inch}

3 (8 stitches per

inch)

3--4 (6-8 stitches

per inch)

2--2,5

(10-12 stitches

per inch)

= Check Your Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in

knits, fine silksand silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and

I be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Bobbin

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

Remove the extension table from To remove bobbin case from shut- the machine by pulling it to the tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.

left. Open the shuttle cover by Pull bobbin case straight out of pulling down the embossed part on shuttle.

the left side of the cover.

Raise needle to its highest position

_ta_imghand wheel toward you.

• Wind the Bobbin

Release clutch by turning the

clutch knob inside the hand wheel

toward you to stop the needle from

moving while you winding the bobbin.

7: ¸

• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc asshown.

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown.

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

)

Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case making sure thread feeds clock- as shown.

wise and is coming from

bobbin as shown.

Place bobbin onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push

bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is

slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Pull thread under tensionKHolding latch open, position

spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 latch.

inches of thread from bobbin.

Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal

sewing operation.

Case should lock into place when latch is released.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare Your Top Thread

• Thread Your Needle

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever.

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

:_mbered steps above follow the numbers

0{1 theJflustrations. ......

Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight.

4. Draw thread down and slip it into needle bar thread guide.

5. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE:

.... .--;=;.....

You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Raise presser foot lever. Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete

turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top thread.

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Isthreadtang!ed around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inchesof thread coming from the shuttle?

4. Isthread from shuttle tangled?

5. Isbobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

6. Isthe machine threaded according to the instructions?

Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4

to 6 inches of thread clear.

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