Kenmore 385.12614 User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

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SEWING MACHINE

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before usng your new Kenmore machne, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are g yen on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our contro.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record n space provided below the model number and serial

number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of

this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL ISACENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.

Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DA NGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug

immediately/.

4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub

or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WAR NING- reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,

or injury to persons.

Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attent_on is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in

this manual.

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service

center for examination, repmr, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from

accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or nsert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is requred around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12.

Do not use bent needles.

13.

Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14.

Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading

bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15.

Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments

mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

TABLE OFCONTENTS

SECTION

1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble .............. 3

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4

Identify the Accessories ........................ 4

2, PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_7

. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 5

• Foot Control Use .......................... 5

• Setting Spool Pins .......................... 6

= Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 6

• Thread Cutter ............................ 6

• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table . . . 7

• Accessories Storage Box ...................... 7

• Change the Presser Foot ...................... 7

Choose the Needle and Thread ................. 7_8

• To Change the Needle ....................... 7

= Check the Needle .......................... 8

e Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 8

Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 9_10

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ..... 9

= Wind the Bobbin ....................... 9_10

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ........... 10

Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 11_12

• Thread the Needle ........................ 11

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................. 12

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 13_14

Reverse Stitch Contro ........................ 14

Stitch Selector ............................. t 5

Stitch Length Control ........................ 16

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance (Model 12614 only) . . . 36

Starting To Sew ............................ 37

3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches .......................... t 8_22

o Straight Stitch ........................... 18

• Use the Seam Guides ....................... 48

• Turn a Square Corner ...................... "d8

• Topstitching ............................ 19

• Left Needle Position ....................... 19

• Sew in a Zipper ........................ 20_2!

• Use the Darning Plate ...................... 22

• Darning ............................... 22

Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_30

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 23

• Satin Stitch ............................. 24

• Applique ............................... 25

• Bar Tacking ............................. 25

• Sew a Button ............................ 26

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 27

• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 28

• LaceWork .............................. 28

• Blind Hemming .......................... 29

• Shell Stitching ........................... 30

• Box Stitching ............................ 30

Stretch Stitches (Model 12614 only) ............ 31_33

• Straight Stretch .......................... 31

• Rick-Ruck Stretch ........................ 31

• Smocking .............................. 32

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 32

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 33

• Elastic Stretch Stitch ....................... 33

Buttonholes ............................. 34_35

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ........................ 36_37

SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ..................... 38

Cleaning the Machine ...................... 38_39

• Clean the Feed Dogs ...................... 38

• Clean the Shuttle Race ..................... 39

Oiling the Machine .......................... 40

• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under

Arm Cover Plate .......................... 40

= Oi the Underside ......................... 40

PARTS LIST ......................................... 4-I

_NDEX ............................................ 42

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog.

Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then

your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-

where.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever

Bobbin Winding Tension Disc

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Thread spool pin (1 Pc.)

For Model 385-11607

Upper Thread Guide

Thread Spoo Pins

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Length Control

Reverse Stitch Control

\ Stitch Selector

\ Shuttle Cover

Extension Table

(Accessory storage box)

SECTION 1. KNOWTHE MACHINE

Arm Cover Plate

Hand Wheel

Auto Clutch Knob

Carrying Handle

Presser Foot Lever

Identify the Accessories

®®®

)

Bobbin

Buttonhole opener

Light and Power Switch

Plug Connector

Presser Foot

Foot Control

Needle Clamp Screw

_ Nomenclature Plate

Free Arm

Needle

Darning p_

Lint brush

Small screw driver

Sliding buttonhole foot

Zipperfoot

Straight stitch foot

Satin stitch

foot

Large screw driver

Set Up the Machine

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

f -.

Power supply plug

Power

switch

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Foot Control Use

Plug

connector

Machine plug

NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF.

Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet.

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown. It wil only fit one way.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

jSewing ight

Power switch _

Push the light and power switch to turn

on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE:

Your machine wil not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the

light/power switch to prevent injury to children.

Foot con[ro

The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the ball of your foot.

To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

sure slightly.

NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and

will ncrease or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

o Setting Spool Pin

Spool pin

The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread when feeding thread to the

machine. To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down

for storage.

NOTE: Model 11607 has one spool pin.

Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

Normal up \ position _Hig[q.

High i'_ position position

position

Presser foot lever

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

foot.

• Thread Cutter

cutter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the

thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

handy thread cutter. Pull the threads to lengthen several inches

before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable

Extension Table

To Remove the Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Table

(for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

• Accessory Storage Box

-_ f f

The lid of the accessory storage Use the correct presser foot for box lifts open toward you. the stitch you wish to sew,

Sewing accessories are conveni- ently located in the box.

= Change the Presser Foot

To change the various presser

feet, raise the presser bar to its

highest position by lifting the presser foot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb

screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure.

Choose the Needle and Thread

• To Change the Needle

Needle clamp screw

Flat

side away

from you

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel toward you

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it down- ward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firm y with the large screwdriver from the

accessor y box.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded

needles:

Blue (1 1) ......... for stretch fabrics.

Orange (1 1 ) ........ for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy

weight fabrics.

Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics

and decorative topstitching on these

fabrics. (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching

thread.)

Green (1 8) ........ for heavy weight fabrics and

decorative top-stitching on these fabrics.

Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears

store.

Fabric, Needle, Thread and

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham,

Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knit,

Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,

Gabardine, Velvet, Leather

Heavy Weight:

Coating, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy

Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex,

Cire Tricot

;titch Length Chart

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

11-B LUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Co re/Cotton Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

2 (12 stitches per

inch)

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches

per inch)

2--3

(8-10 stitches

per inch)

3 (8 stitches per

inch)

3--4 (6-8 stitches

per inch)

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches

per inch)

o Check the Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

Prepare the Bobbin

o To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the

left. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on

the left side of the cover. Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

To remove bobbin case from shut-

tle, pull open latch of bobbin case. Pull bobbin case straight out of

shuttle.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING i

• Wind the Bobbin

)

Release clutch by turning the

clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle from

moving while you wind the bobbin.

NOTE:

The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted for the amount of thread needed

on the bobbin (example 1/2 full or full etc.). To make the adjustment use your large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less. This will allow you to adjust the position of bobbin winder stopper. Do not take screw all

the wayout.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

Draw thread from spool through

bobbin winding tension disc as shown.

o Bnsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

f f

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown.

Place bobbin onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming

from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Wind thread unti winder stops.

Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.

Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal sewing operation.

Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case making sure thread feeds clock- as shown.

wise and is coming from

bobbin as shown.

Pull thread under tension

Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place

spring and through the opening case nto shuttle and release when latch is released. as shown above. Pull3to4 latch.

inches of thread from bobbin.

Prepare the Top Thread

® Thread the Needle

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show places where the thread

loops and then is pulled tight.

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever.

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.

Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE:

You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading,

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

o Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

Raise presser foot lever. Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete

turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?

5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4

to 6 inches of thread clear.

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