Kenmore 385.115518 User Manual
OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1155180
or
385. 1154180
or
385. 1011180
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customep:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION!. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
Locate and Identify the Parts.................................................. 2~3
Identify the Accessories............................................................... 3
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine...................................................................4~6
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do
Choose Your Needle and Thread
Prepare the Bobbin
Prepare Your Top Thread
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Stitch Selector............................................................................ 18
Stitch Length Control.................................................................. 18
Reverse Stitch Control............................................................... 18
Starting To Sew.......................................................................... 19
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart ...........................................................20~21
Straight Stitches....................................................................22~23
Darning ...................................................................................... 24
Straight Stretch........................................................................... 24
Zigzag Stitches.....................................................................25~31
• Basic Zigzag......................................................................... 25
• Satin Stitch............................................................................ 26
• Applique................................................................................ 27
• Bar Tacking
• Monogramming .................................................................... 28
• Embroidery........................................................................... 28
..............................................................
..........................................................................
...
.................................................14~15
....................................
..........................................
............................................
......................................
7~8
9~10
11~13
16~17
2
27
• Sew a Button
• Overcasting Stitch................................................................. 30
• Rick-Rack Stretch ................................................................ 30
• Three-Step Zigzag................................................................ 31
Buttonholes..........................................................................
Sew in a Zipper
Smocking................................................................................... 36
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When
SECTIONS. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb............................................................ 39
Cleaning the Machine ..........................................................39~40
Oiling the Machine................................................................41~42
PARTS LIST........................................................................................................ 43
INDEX................................................................................................................. 44
........................................................................
....................................................................
.......................................
29
34~35
37-38
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A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any
where.
Take-up Lever
Stitch Selector
Top Cover
Accessory box
Lint brush
Small screw driver
Needle set
Spool pin
Spool pin felt
Satin stitch
foot
Model 11551 only
Buttonhole
guide foot
Zipper foot
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
Power supply plug
NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF.
1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
Volt AC outlet.
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
• Foot Control Use
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres
sure slightly.
NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table with your index finger-and thumb, as shown,
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.
To Attach :
Screw spool pins in place securely with a
screw driver.
Position sppol pin felts as shown in illustra
tion.
your presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than
normal up position for easy removal of the
presser foot or to help you place heavy
fabrics under the presser foot.
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
’ Set Up the Machine (Continued)
■ Free-Arm Sewing (Continued)
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
This feature makes sewing easy for:
belt loops and waistline on ready
made or homemade garments to
avoid fabric bunching around the
needle.
legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child
ren's clothes.
bands, etc.
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
• Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch
you wish to sew. Consult the practical
Stitch Chart on pages 20 ~ 21 and the
detailed directions for sewing with the
various presser feet.
• Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot
Straight Foot
To change the various presser feet, raise the
presser bar to its highest position by lifting
the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser
foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver to make certain
the foot is secure.
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag
stitching.
Uses: Straight stitching (see p. 22),
Topstitching (see p. 23),
Straight stretch (see p. 24),
Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),
Bar tack in g (see p. ^),
Button sewing (see p. 29),
Overcasting stitch (see p. 30),
Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),
Three-step zigzag (see p. 31),
Smocking (see p. 36)
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Stratight stitching (see p. 22),
Topstitching (see p. 23),
Stratight stretch (see p. ^)
• Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Satin Stitch Foot
Zipper Foot
Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)
Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining
applique and Buttonhole making.
Uses; Satin stitch (see p. 26),
Applique (see p. 27),
Monogramming (see p. 28)
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight.
Uses: Zipper application (see p. 34)
to measure your buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 32)
(Built-in method)
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue (11)
..............................
for stretch fabrics
Orange (11)..........................for lightweight fabrics
Red (14)...............................for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16)
...........................
for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitching on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitching thread.)
Green (18)
..........................
for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top
stitching on these fabrics
• Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
To Change Your Needle
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Suitings, Linen,
Woo! Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wooi Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top*stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knits,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Ciré Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE}
with "Q FOOT"
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
12 stitches per
inch
10 12 stitches
per inch
8 10 stitches
per inch
8 stitches per
inch
6 ~ 8 stitches per
inch
10 — 12 stitches
per inch
you.
1 Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory box.
10
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you.
the machine by pulling it to the
left. Open the shuttle cover by
pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
11
Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
winder tension disc as shown.
12
bobbin as shown.
spindle with end of thread coming from
the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start ma
chine. When bobbin is slightly filled,
snip off end of thread.
bobbin. Clip thread.
Tighten clutch knob.
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Place bobbin in bobbin case
making sure thread feeds clock
wise and is coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.
Pull thread under tension
spring and through the opening
as shown above.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.
13
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