kawasaki zx 600, zx 750 Service Manual

'".

HAYNES

SERVICE

&

REPAIR

MANUAL

(GPZ600R.

GPH600R.

nlDJa

600R

&

ZH750

(GPH750R. ninja

750R)

'85

to

'97

"Haynes Manuals just cannot

be

beaten"

M:Jlor

C\'CIe

News

-

--

-------

COLOUR

wiring

diagrams

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all-guides.com

•

Kawasaki

ZX600

&

750

Fours

Service and Repair Manual

by Bob Henderson
and John H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models

covered

ZX600A (GPZ600R). 592cc. UK 1985 through 1990

ZX600A (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1985 through 1987
ZX600B alumininum frame model (Ninja 600RX). 592cc. US 1987
ZX600C (GPX600R). 592cc.

UK

1988 through 1996

ZX600C (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1988 through 1997

ZX750F (GPX750A). 748cc. UK 1987 through 1991
ZX750F (Ninja 7S0R). 748cc. US 1987 through 1990

C H

ayne.

Pubtlahlng 1999

A book

In

lhe

Hayne.

Service and Repair Manual

Serl"

PrInted in the USA

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset 8A22 7 JJ, England

Hayn

es Nort

h America, Inc

(178()-.260-3Y3)

All

lights

,..

..

rHd.

No

part

of

this

book

may

be

reproduced

or

trans

mitted

In any

lorm

or

by

any

means,

electronic

or

machanical,

including

photoeopyil'lg,

rKOrding

or

by

any

information

ItOf'lllil8

or

rwtrieval system,

withotlt

pennl,lIon

In

writing

from

tIw

eopyright

holder.

861

Lawrence

Drive,

Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

ISBN 1

85980

230 4

Libllory

01

CongrHl

Catalog

Card

Numt:.r

81.12743

British Ubrary Cataloguing In

Pub~cation

o.ta

A catalogue record lor this book is

a~ailabkllrom

the Bntl$h Ubrary.

Edit

ions

Haynes

4, Rue

de

l'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

Hayn

es

Publishing Nordiska

AS

Box 1504,

751

45

UPPSAlA,

Sweden

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR KAWASAKI

Introduction

Kawasaki - The Green Meanies

Page

0·'

Acknowledgements

Page

0·7

About this manual

Page

0·7

Safety first!

Page

0·8

Identification numbers

Page

0·.

Buying spare parts

Page

0·9

Daily (pre-ride) checks

Engine/transmission oil level

Page

0-10

Clutch fluid level (750 models)

Page

0-10

Brake fluid levels

Page

0-11

Suspension, steering and drive chain

Page

0-11

Coolant level

Page

0-12

Legal and safety checks

Page

0-12

Tyres

Page

0-13

MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Specifications

Page

'·2

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Page

'·3

Component locations

Page

,.,

Maintenance schedule

Page

,

..

Maintenance procedures

Page

'·7

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine, transmission and associated systems

Engine,

clutch

and transmission

(BOO

models)

Engine,

clutch

and transmission (750 models)

Cooling

system

Fuel and exhaust systems

Ignition system

Chassis components

Frame, suspension and final

drive

Brakes

Wheels
Tyres

Fairing

and

bodywork

Electrical system

Wiring diagrams

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights

Tools and Workshop Tips

Conversion

Factors

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants
MOT Test Checks

Storage

Fault Finding
Fault Finding Equipment

Technical

Terms

Explained

Index

Contents

Page

2A.'

Page

28-1

Page

3·,

Page

4·'

Page

5·'

Page

6·'

Page

7·'

Page

7-10

Page

7-13

Page

8·,

Page

9·,

Page

9·20

Page

REF·1

Page

REF-2

Page

REF-20

Page

REF-21

Page REF·22

Page REF·26
Page REF-28

Page

REF-36

Page REF·40

Page REF-44

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REF-44 Index

Note: Referern;es throughout this index relata to Chapter-page number

A

About

this

Manual·

0-7

Acknowledgements·

0-7

Air

fiher·

'-15,

4-11

Air

suction

valves -

,-a

Alternator -'-20,

28-25,

9-16,

9-17

Anti·dive

seals -'-23

Anti-dive

valve

assembly

-

6-9

Antifreeze -0-12,

'-2,

'-20,

,-21

Asbestos -

o-a

B

Battery·

o-a,

'-16,9-2,9-3

Bearings·

REF·14

Bleeding

brakes -

7-10

clutch -

28-19

Brake fluid - 0-11,

'*2,

'*23

Brakes, wheels

and

tyres

-

'*12,

7-'

ot seq,

REF·24

bleeding -7-10
brake fiuid - 0-11,

'*2,

'-23

caliper -

'-23,

7-2

disc(s) - 7-S

hoses and lines

-'-24,

7-9

lever -

9-7

light -'*13, 9-5,

9-7

master cylinder - 7-6,

7-7

pads-,·,2,7-3

pedal-I-13,

g-a

plunger unit -

6-9

tyres

-7-13

wheel bearings -

7-12

wheels -

7-10

wheels alignment

check

- 7-11

Break-in

procedure

-

28-30

Brushes

and

slip

rings -9-18

c

Cables -

1-18

, 2A-26, 4-10, 4-11

Caliper

- 1-23,

7-2

Camshafts

- 2A-8, 2A-9, 2A-35,

28-6, 28-7,

28-25

Carburenor

- 1-22, 4-3,

4-4,

4-5,

4-8

synchronisation -

1-9
Centrestand -6-3
Chain -

0-11,

1-7,

1-12,

6-16,

REF-18

Charging -9-3,

9-15

Chemicals

- REF-21

Choke

cable

- 4-11

Clutch

(600 models) - 1-11, 2A-23

cables - 2A-26

Clutch

(750 models) - 2S-15,

28-18

clutch fluid -

0-10,1-2,1-23

bleeding

-2S-19

hoses -

1-24

master cylinder -

28-18

slave cylinder -

28-18

Clutch

fluid

- 0-10,

1-2,

1-23

Coils

- 5-3,

5-4

Connecting

rods

- 2A-29, 2A-31 ,

28-22

,

28-23

Conversion

factors

- REF-20

Coolant·

0-12,1-2

Coolant

pump -3-9

Coolant

reservoir -3-5

Coolant

temperature

gauge -3-6

Cooling

fan -3-5

Cooling

system

- 1-20, 1-21, 3-1

et

seq

coolant pump -

3-9

coolant res9I'Voir -

3-5

coolant temperature gauge -

3-6

fan -

3-5

011

cooler -

3-10

radiator -

3-8

radiator

cap -3-5

switch -

3-5

temperature gauge -

3-6

thermostat -

3-7

thermostat housing -

3-7

thermostatic fan -

3-5

water

pump -3-9

Crankcase

- 2A-27, 2A-28,

28-20,

28-22

Crankshaft

- 2A-29,

28-23

Cylinder

block

- 2A-17, 28-11

Cylinder

compression -1-24

Cylinder

head

- 2A-13, 2A-15,

28-9,

28-11

D

Daily (pre-ride)

checks -0-10

et

seq

Dimensions -REF-l
Dlrectlon

Indicator

assemblies -

9-7

bulbs -

9-6

Disc(s) -

7-5

Drive beH -

1-20

Drive

chain

-1-7,

0-11, 1-12, 6-16, REF-18

E

Electric

Suspension

Control

System

(ESCS) -

6-10

Electrical

system

- 9-1

et

seq,

REF-22

alternator-g-16,

9-17

battery - 9-2,

9-3
brake lever -g-7
brake light -

9-5

brake light switches -

9-7

brake pedal -

9-8
brushes -

9-18

charging - 9-3,

9-15

direction indicators- 9-6,

9-7

fault finding -

9-2

fuel gauge -

9-8

fuses -

9-3

gauges -

g-a
handlebar switches - 9-1 0
headlight - 9-5,

9-6

horn -

9-12

ignition main

(key)

switch -

9-10
indicators - 9-6, 9_7
instruments -

g-g

junction box -

9-3

licence plate light -

9-5

lighting system -

9-5

meters -

g-a

neutral indicator light -

9-5

neutral switch -

9-10

numberplate light -

9-5

oil pressure sending unit -

g-g

oil pressure warning light -

9-5

pedal -

g-a

regulator/rectifier -

9-17
sidestand switch - 9-12
slip

rings -

9-18

speedometer -

g-g

starter motor -

9-13
starte!' solenoid - 9-12
stop light - 9-5,

9-7
switches - 9-7, 9-10, 9-12
tachometer -

g-g

taillight - 9-5,

9-7

temperature gauge -

g-g

tum signal assemblies - 9-6,

9-7
voltage regulatorlrectifier - g-17
warning light bulbs -

g-g

wiring diagrams -

9-19

et

seq

Electricity -o-a
Electrolyte -

'-16

•

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Engi

ne

1600

models)

camshaft - lA-

a,

lA

-g, 2A-

35

connecting rods - 2A*29, 2A-

31

crankcase -

2A

*27, 2A*28

crankshaft -2A*29

cylinder block - 2A· 17

cylinder head - 2A* 13, 2A*15

main

bearings -

2A

. 29

oil pan -2A-

21

oil pressure relief valve -2A*23

011

pump - 2A-

22

Piston rings - 2A-20

pistons - 2A*18

removal

and

installation - 2A. 4

rocker

arms

- 2A· 12

starter

motor

-

2A

*34

sump - 2A-

21

valve cover -ZA-?

valves - 2A* 14, 2A-IS

Engin

e (750

models)

alternator -28-25
break-In procedure

-26*

30

camshaft -28-

6,

2S-

7, 28-25

connecting rods -2S-22, 2S*23
crankcase

-28*20, 28-22

crankshaft

-

28

-23

cylinder block - 2B- l1

cylinder

head

-

28-9,

2B-

l1

main bearings -

28*22, 28*

23

oil pan -28*12

011

pressure relief valve -28- 14

011

pump

-

2a*13

piston rings -

28

-12

pistons -

28

-12

removal and installation -28*4

rocker arms - 2B. 7

running-In procedure -28*

30

starter -

28

*25, 2S*23, 2S.

24

sump -

28

-12

valve

cover

-

2S

-6

valves -

28

· "

Engine fautt

finding

- S. 2

Engine

oil - 1.

2,

0

.'

0,

1· 14

Engine

, c

lut

ch

and

transmission

(600

model

s) - 2A

.l

at

seq

Englna, clutch

and

transmis

sion

(750modfl/s)

- 2

8.1

at

seq

EvaporativfI flmission

controi

system

-'·

'0

Exhaust system

- ' .

'7, 4.'3,

REF· 23

F

Fairing

and

bodyworlc - a

-I

et

seq
fairing - 8-8
fairing stays - a- g
fendS!"

- 8-

9,

8. 10

knee grip

COVefS

- a. g

mudguard - 8-

9,

8· 10

seat -8·

'0

side

COVefS

- 8 -9
tailpiecfl - 8-10
windshlflld -

8. 9

Fan

- 3-S

Fasteners-I-

17, REf-S

Fault

finding

- REF-28

fit

seq

electricai systfIITI - 9-2
flngine - S-2

Fflnder-a-g, a-l

0

Filter

ai

r -I-IS, 4-

11

luel-I

-19

oil-I

-14

Final

drive -REF

-23

Footpegs

- 6-3

ForlI;

oil-

' -2, ' .

21

Forks

- 6. 4

Frame,

suspension

and

I/na/

drive-

6. 1

at

seq

anti-dive valve assembly - 6-9
brake plunger unit - 6-9
centrestand - 6-3
chain - 6

-'

6

Electr

iC

Suspension Control Systam (Escs)

- 6-10

footpegs - 6-3

forKs - 6· 4

frame - 6-

2,

6· 3

handlebars

- 6· 3

rocker

ann

- 6

·'

2

rubber

damper

- e- 17

shock absorber - 6-

12

side stand - 6-3
sprockets - 6

.'

6

steering head bearings - 6· 10
suspension linkage - e-12
swingarm - e-

IS

tia-rod - 6- 12
uni-trak - 6-

12

wheel coupling - 6- 17

Fuel and

exhaust

systems-

' ·

'9,4·'atseq

air fin

er-4

· "

cable - 4·

1,

cables

-4

-10

carburetlors - 4.

3,

4-4,

4-

5, 4-8

choke cab

la

- 4-

11

exhaust system -4-13
fil

ter-

I-1

9

fuel level adjustment -

4_

9

fuel level

S8flSOf

- g-g

fuel tank - 4-3
gauge - g-a

hoses

-'

· 23

Idle mixture adjustment - 4. 3
mixture adjustment

- 4- 3

thro

tt

le cables - 4- 10

throttle

grip·

4-1 0

Fumfls

- o·a

Fuses - 9· 3

G

Gaskets

- REF- 17

Gauges

-9

· 8

Gear

shift

mechanism

- 2A-26, 28·

'9

Gearbox

oil

- 0- 10,1- 2

Glossary -

REF

· 40

at

seq

Index REF

o

45

H

Ha

ndlebar.

- 6-3

switCh&$;

- 9-10

Headlight

- g- S

aim - 9-6,

REF-22

bulb - 9-5

Hom - 9-

12

Hoses

-'

-23, 1-

24,

7-

9,

REF-19

I

Ie

IgnHer - 5-S

Idle mi

xture adjustment

- 4-3

Idle s

peed

- ,-g

Ignition

system

- 5-' et seq

colis - 5-

3,

S- 4
fault finding - 5-2
Ie

Igniter - 5-S

main (key) switch - 9-1 0
misfire - 5-2

Indicat

ors

assemblies·9

-7

bulbs - g. e

Instruments

bulbs - 9-9
cluster - 9-8

J

Junction

box

- 9-3

K

Knee

grip

C

OYilf'S

- a·9

L

Legal chec

ks - 0.

,2

Ucence pla

te

light

- 9. 5

Ughtlng system

- 9-S

Lubrication

- 1-

13,

REF-21

M

Main

bearing

s -

2A

-29,

28

·22, 28-23

Maintenance sc

hedute -

1.

6

Ma

ster

cylinder -1.

23, 28-18, 7.

6,

7-7

Met.,..

- g- a

Misfir

e - 5-2

Mixture

adjustment

- 4- 3

MOT

test cheeks -

REF

-22

et

seq

brakes -

REF

-24

electrical system -

REF -22

exhaust -

REF -23

final drive -

REF

-23

headlight beam height -

REF

-22

sidecars

-

REF

. 25

steering -

REF

.23

suspension -

REF

. 23

tyres -

REF -24

wheels -

REF

-24

Mudguard

- a-g, a-

l0

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

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REFo46 Index

N

Neutral

indicator

light

- 905

Neutral

switch

- 9010

Numberplate

light -90S

o

Oilcooler-3010

Oilfitter-'·14
Oil

pan

-

2Ao21 , 28.12

all

pressure

relief

valve - 2Ao23,

28.14

all

pressure
sending unit - gog
warning light - 905

all

pump

- 2Ao22,

2S.13

Oil

seals

-'.23,

REF.16

Oil

engine/transmission -

0.'0,

'02,

,.14

fOrK-,02,

1021

p

Pads

,'.12,

703, goa

Pedals

-'.13

Pickup coils - 504

Piston rings - 2Ao20,

28.12

Pistons

- 2Ao18,

28.12

R

Radiator

- 308

cap - 305

Recommended

break-in

procedure

- 2Ao39, 28030

Reference

- REF-,

at

seq

Regulator/rectifier

- go17

Rocker

arms

- 2Ao12, 2S07

Routine maintenance and

servicing -

,.,

at seq

Rubber

damper

- 6017

Running-in

procedure

- 2Ao39, 2S030

s

Safety

first!

- ooa,

0.12

Sealants

- REFo17

Seals

-,023,

REF-16

Seat -a-lO

Shock

absorber -6-12

Side

covers -a-g

Sidestand -6-3

switch -

9-12

Sidecars

- REF-25

Slave

cylinder -2B-18

Spark

plugs -1-a,

'-20

Specific

gravity

- 1

-16
Speedometer -9-9
Sprockets

-1-12,

6-16

Starter

motor -2A-34,

28-23,

2S-24,

2S-25,

9-13

Starter

motor

clutch·

2A-33

Starter

solenoid·

9-12

Steering

- 0-11, REF-23

Steering

head -'-23

bearings - 1-15,

6-10

Stoplight -1-13,

9-5

switches -

9-7

Storage

- REF-26

Sump

- 2A-21 ,

2S-12

Suspension -0-11,

1-24, REF-23

Suspension

linkage

(Uni-Trak) - 6-12

Swing

arm -1-20,

6-15

Switches

-1-13,

3-5,

9-7,

9-1O,

9-'2

T

Tachometer -9-9
Taillight -9-5

bulbs -

9-7

Taitplece

- a-1 a

Technical

terms

explained

- REF-40

et

seq

Temperature

gauge -3-6,

g-g

Thermostat -3-7

housing -

3-7

Thermostatic

fan -

3-5

Throttle

cables -1-18,4-10

Throttle

grip -4-10

Tie-rod -6-12

Tools

snd

worlcshop

tips

- REF-2

at

seq

Torque

- REF-13

Transmission

(BOO

models)

gear shift mechanism -

2A-26

primary chain -

2A-35

secondary sprocket -

2A-33

shafts - 2A-35,

2A-36

Transmission

(750

models)

gear shift mechanism -

2S-1g

shafts - 2S-25,

2S-26

Transmission

oil-

a-la,

1-2

Transmission

shafts

- 2A-35,

2A-36

Tum

signal

assemblies -

g-7

bulbs -

9-6

Tyre

pressures

- 0-13,

1-2

Tyres - 0-13, 1-16, 7-13, REF-24

u

Unl-Trak -6-12

linkage -

1-20

v

Valves - 2A-14, 2A-15, 2S-11

clearances

-'-17

cover - 2A-7,

2S-6

Voltage

regulator/rectifier -9-17

w

Warning

light

bulbs -g-g

Water

pump -3-9

Weights

- REF-1

Wheels

·1-16,

7-10, REF-24

bearings

- 1-23,

7-12

coupling -

6-17

Wheels

alignment

check

-7-11

Windshield -8-9

Wiring

diagrams -g-1g

et

seq

Workshop

- REF-4

tips - REF-2

•

l

•

•

1

I

C

I

I

•

•

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

•

Kawasaki

ZX600

&

750

Fours

Service and Repair Manual

by Bob Henderson

and John H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models

covered

ZX600A (GPZ600R). 592cc. UK 1985 through 1990

ZX600A (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1985 through 1987
ZX600B alumininum frame model (Ninja 600RX). 592cc. US 1987
ZX600C (GPX600R). 592cc.

UK

1988 through 1996

ZX600C (Ninja 600R). 592cc. US 1988 through 1997

ZX750F (GPX750A). 748cc. UK 1987 through 1991
ZX750F (Ninja 7S0R). 748cc. US 1987 through 1990

C H

ayne.

Pubtlahlng 1999

A book

In

lhe

Hayne.

Service and Repair Manual

Serl"

PrInted in the USA

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset 8A22 7 JJ, England

Hayn

es Nort

h America, Inc

(178()-.260-3Y3)

All

lights

,..

..

rHd.

No

part

of

this

book

may

be

reproduced

or

trans

mitted

In any

lorm

or

by

any

means,

electronic

or

machanical,

including

photoeopyil'lg,

rKOrding

or

by

any

information

ItOf'lllil8

or

rwtrieval system,

withotlt

pennl,lIon

In

writing

from

tIw

eopyright

holder.

861

Lawrence

Drive,

Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

ISBN 1

85980

230 4

Libllory

01

CongrHl

Catalog

Card

Numt:.r

81.12743

British Ubrary Cataloguing In

Pub~cation

o.ta

A catalogue record lor this book is

a~ailabkllrom

the Bntl$h Ubrary.

Edit

ions

Haynes

4, Rue

de

l'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

Hayn

es

Publishing Nordiska

AS

Box 1504,

751

45

UPPSAlA,

Sweden

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Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR KAWASAKI

Introduction

Kawasaki - The Green Meanies

Page

0·'

Acknowledgements

Page

0·7

About this manual

Page

0·7

Safety first!

Page

0·8

Identification numbers

Page

0·.

Buying spare parts

Page

0·9

Daily (pre-ride) checks

Engine/transmission oil level

Page

0-10

Clutch fluid level (750 models)

Page

0-10

Brake fluid levels

Page

0-11

Suspension, steering and drive chain

Page

0-11

Coolant level

Page

0-12

Legal and safety checks

Page

0-12

Tyres

Page

0-13

MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Specifications

Page

'·2

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Page

'·3

Component locations

Page

,.,

Maintenance schedule

Page

,

..

Maintenance procedures

Page

'·7

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REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine, transmission and associated systems

Engine,

clutch

and transmission

(BOO

models)

Engine,

clutch

and transmission (750 models)

Cooling

system

Fuel and exhaust systems

Ignition system

Chassis components

Frame, suspension and final

drive

Brakes

Wheels
Tyres

Fairing

and

bodywork

Electrical system

Wiring diagrams

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights

Tools and Workshop Tips

Conversion

Factors

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants
MOT Test Checks

Storage

Fault Finding
Fault Finding Equipment

Technical

Terms

Explained

Index

Contents

Page

2A.'

Page

28-1

Page

3·,

Page

4·'

Page

5·'

Page

6·'

Page

7·'

Page

7-10

Page

7-13

Page

8·,

Page

9·,

Page

9·20

Page

REF·1

Page

REF-2

Page

REF-20

Page

REF-21

Page REF·22

Page REF·26
Page REF-28

Page

REF-36

Page REF·40

Page REF-44

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0-4

Introduction

Kawasaki

The

Green

Meanies

by

Julian

Ryder

Kawasaki

Heavy

Industries

K:

wasaki is a company

of

contradictions.

It

Is

the smallest of the big

four

apanase manufacturers

but

the

biggest company, it was the last

of

the four to

make and markel

motorcycles yet

it

owns the

oldest

name

in

the

Japanese Industry. and it

was

the

first to

sel

up

a factory in

the

USA.

Kawasaki Heavy Industries, of which the

motorcycle

operation is

but a small

component,

is a massive

company

with

its

heritage firmly

in

the old heavy industries like

shipbuilding and railways; nowadays it

is

as

much

Involved

in

aerospace

as

In

motorcycles.

In

fact it may be because

of

this that

Kawasaki's motorcycles have always been

quirky, you get

the

impression

that

they are

designed by a

small group

of

enthusiasts

who

are given an

admirably

free hand,

More

realistical ly, it

may

be that

Kawasaki's

designers have

experience

with

techniques

and

materials

from

other

engineering
disciplines, Either way, Kawasaki have
managed

to

be

the

factory

who

surprise us
more than the rest, Quite often, they do this
by

totally

ignoring a

market

segment

the

others are

scrabbling

over,

but

more

often

they hit us with pure, undiluted performance,

The origins

of

the

company, and its name,

go back to 1878 when

Shozo Kawasaki set

up

a dockyard in Tokyo,

8y

the late 1930s, the

company was making its own

steel

in

massive

steelworks and manufacturing railway

locos

and

rolling

stock,

In

the

run

up

to war,

the

Kawasaki Aircraft

Company

was

set

up

in

1937

and

it was this arm

of

the

now

giant

operation

that

would

look

to

motorcycle
engine manufacture

in

post-war Japan,

They

bought

their

high-technology

Th

e

H1

three cylinder

two-stroke

500

experience to

bear

first on engines which

were

sold on to a number

of

manufacturers

as
original equipment. 80th two- and four-stroke
units

were made, a 58

cc

and

148

cc

OHC

unit. One

of

the

customer

companies

was

Meihatsu Heavy

Industries, another company

within the Kawasaki group, which

in

1961

was

shaken

up

and renamed Kawasaki

Auto

Sales,

At

the

same time,

the

Akashi factory

which was

to

be

Kawasaki's main production

facility until the Kobe earthquake

of

1995, was

opened,

Shorlly

afterwards, Kawasaki

took

over

the

ailing

Meguro

company,

Japan's

oldest

motorcycle

maker,

thus

instantly

obtaining a range

of

bigger bikes which were

marketed

as Kawasaki-Meguros, The

following year, the first bike to be made and
sold

as

a Kawasaki was produced, a 125

cc

single called the

88

and

in

1963 a motocross

version, the

88M

appeared,

Model

development

~

wasaki's

first appearance on a road-

race circuit came

in

1965 with a batch

of

isc-valve

125

tWins, They were

no

match

for

the

opposition

from Japan in

the

shape

of

Suzuki and Yamaha or for the fading

force

of

the factory MZs from East Germany,

Only

after

the

other Japanese factories had

pulled out

of

the class did Kawasaki win,

With
8ritish rider Dave Simmonds becoming World
125

GP

Champion in 1969 on a bike that

looked

astonishingly

similar

to

the

original

racer, That same year Kawasaki reorganised

once

again, this

time

merging three

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companies

to form

Kawasaki

Heavy

Industries. One

of

the

new

organisation's

objectives was

to

take motorcycle production

forward and exploit markets outside Japan.

KHI achieved

that

target

immediately

and

sel

out

their stall

for

the

future

with

the

astonishing

and frightening

HI.

This three-

cylinder air-cooled 500

cc

two-stroke was

arguably

the

first

modern

pure

performance

bike

to

hit

the market. It hypnotised a

who

le

generation

of

motorcyclists

who'd

never

before encountered such a ferocious, wheelie

inducing power band or such shattering

straight-line

speed

allied to

questionable

handling.

And

as for the 750

cc

version

"'_

The triples perfectly suited the late '60s,

fitting in well with the student demonstrations
of

1968

and

the

anti-establishment

ethos

of

the

Summer

of

Love.

Unfortunately,

the

011

crisis would

put

an

end

to

the thirsty strokers
but Kawasaki had another high-performance
ace

up

their

corporate

sleeve.

Or

rather they

thought they did.

Introduction 0-5

The

1968

Tokyo

Show

saw

probably

the

single

most

significant

new

motorcycle

ever

made

unveiled:

the

Honda

CB750.

At

Kawasaki it

caused a major

shock,

for

they

also had a

750

cc

four,

code-named

New

York Steak, almost ready

to

roll and it was a

double,

rather

than single,

overhead

cam

motor. Bravely, they

took

the

decision

to

go

ahead - but

with

the

motor

taken

out

to

900

cc. The result

was

the

ZI,

unveiled

at

the

1972 Cologne

Shaw

. It was a bike straight out

of

the

same

mould

as

the

H1, scare stories

spread

about

unmanageable power,

dubious

straight-line stability and frightening handling,

none

of

which

stopped

the

sales

graph

rocketing

upwards

and

led

to

the

coining

of

the term

'superbike'.

While rising fuel

prices

cut short development

of

the big two-strokes,

The

first

Superbike,

Kawasaki

'S 900

cc

Z1

the

Z1

went

on

to

found a dynasty, indeed its

genes

can

still

be

detected

in

Kawasaki's

latest

products

like the ZZ-R1100 (Ninja ZX-

11).
This is

another

characteristic

of

the

way

Kawasaki operates.

Models

quite

often have

very long lives,

or

gradually evolve. There is

no

major difference between that first

Z1

and

the air-cooled GPz range.

Add

water-cooling

and

you

have

Ihe

GPZ900,

which

in

turn

metamorphosed

into

the

GPZ1000RX

and

then the ZX-10 and the

ZZ-Rl1oo.lndeed,

the

last

three

models

share the

same

58

mm

One

of

the

two-stroke

engined

KH

and

KE

range -the

KH125EX

stroke. The bikes are obviously very different
but

it's

difficult

to

put

your

finger on exactly

why.

Other

models

have remained

effectively

untouched for over a decade: the

KH

and

KE

single-cylinder

air-coo

led

two-stroke

learner

bikes,

the

GT550 and 750 Shaft-drive hacks
favoured by big city despatch riders and the
GPz305 being prime examples. It's only when
they

step

outside

the

performance field

that
Kawasakis seems less sure. Their first factory
customs

were

dire,

you

simply

got

the
impression that the team that designed them
didn't

have their heart

In

the

job. Only when

the Classic range appeared

in

1995 did they

get it right.

Racing success

K

awasaki also have a

more

focused

approach

to

racing than

the

other

factories.

The

policy has always

been

to
race the road bikes and with just a couple of
exceptions

that's

what

they've

done. Even

Simmonds'

championship

winner

bore

a

strong

resemblance

to

the

twins they were

selling in the late '60s and racing versions

of
the 500 and 750

cc

triples were also sold as

over-the-counter

racers,

the

HIR

and H2R.

The 500 was in the forefront

of

the two-stroke

assault on

MV

Agusta but wasn't a Grand Prix

winner. It was the 750 that made the

impact

and carried the factory's image

in

F750 racing

against the

Suzuki triples and Yamaha fours.

The factory's decision

to

use green, usually

regarded as an unlucky colour

in

sport, meant

its

bikes

and personnel

stood

out

and

the
phrase 'Green Meanies' fitted them perfectly.
The

ZI

motor

soon became a lull 1000 cc and

powered

Kawasaki's

assault in

F1

racing,

notably in endurance which Kawasaki saw as

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0

0

6 Introduction

being most closely related to its road bikes.

That

didn't

stop

them dominating 250 and

350 cc GPs with a tandem twin two-stroke

in

the

late

'70s

and

early '80s,

but

their

path-

breaking monocoque 500 while a race winner
never

won

a world litle. When Superbike

arrived,

Kawasaki's

road 750s

weren't

as

track-friendly as the opposition's oul-and-out

race replicas. This makes Scott Russell's

World title on the ZXR750 in 1993 even

more praiseworthy,

for

the

homologation bike, the ZXR750RR, was
much heavier and much more of a road

bike than

the

Italian

and

Japanese

competition.

The

company's

Supersport

600

contenders

have similarly been

more

sports-tourers

than race-

replicas,

yet

they

too

have

been

competitive

on

the

track. Indeed,

the flagship bike, the ZZ-R1100,

Is

most

definitely a sports

tourer

capable

of

carrying

two

people and

their

luggage at high speed

in

comfort
all day and then doing it again the next
day. Try that on one

of

the race replicas

and

you'll

be in need

of a course

of

treatment from a chiropractor.

Through

doing

it

their way Kawasaki

developed a brand

loyalty

for

their

performance

bikes

that

kept

the

Z1

's

derivatives

in

production

until

the

mid-'80s

The GT750 • a

favourit

e hack

for

despatc

h rid

ers

and tumed the bike into a classic in its model
life. You could even argue that the

Z1

lives on

in

the shape

of

the 1100 Zephyr's GPz11 00-

derived motor. And

thaI's

another Kawasaki

invention, the

retro bike. But when you look

at what many commentators refer to

as

the

relro

boom,

especially in

Japan, you find that it

is

no such thing. II is the

Zephyr

boom.

Just

another

example

of

Japan's most surprising

motorcycle

manufacturer

getting

it

right again.

The

high-perform

ance ZXR750

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The ZX600 and 750 Fours

F

or a first go, the ZX600A (GPZ600R

in

the UK, Ninja

60DR

in

the

US)

wasn't

bad.

In

fact it was marvelous. Up until

ils

introduction

in 1985,

Kawasaki

had

never made a water-cooled bike. Their air-

cooled ZX models (note the

lower-case

'zed'

in

the UK GPz designation denoting

air cooling. a capital means liquid

cooled) middleweights had ruled the
roost since the start

of

the decade,

advancing

through

the

usual

Kawasaki progression

of

naked

twin-shock bike, naked

monoshocker, then growing a

bikini fairing, a half fairing and a

full fairing in successive years.

The

ZX600A, though. hit the

ground running as a fully-enclosed

water-cooled bike with the full set
of

mid

'80s trickery including a

16-

inch front wheel and suspension

equipped with anti-dive and adjustable air

pressure and damping. Critically, it was a year

ahead of the Honda

CBR600 and

swept

all

before it

in

the

middleweight

sales stakes.

Nevertheless, there were

two

sets

of
modifications; the first was a new set of disc
brakes

for the A4 model of 1988, the second a

major

reworking of engine internals for the A5

of 1989 which increased

power

by

9%

and

peak torque by

13%.

This

didn't

really

do
much for sales as by then the modern 6005
had

arrived.

The

ZX600A's chassis package was all new

but

the

motor was

based

around the old 52.4

mm

stroke of the GPz550 with the bore taken

out

2 mm to 60 mm, another typical piece of

Kawasaki

evolution.

As

was

the

ZX600C

model

(GPX6OQR

in

the UK, Ninja 600R in the

US)

which arrived

in

1988. The engine - at the

bottom end

at

least - was the

same

as the

ZX600A

but up top the drive for inlet efficiency

led

the

valves to

be

operated by short rocker

arms

pivoting

in

ball and pillow mountings as

opposed to the cam

lobes

operating

on

Acknowledgements

O

ur

thanks are due to Kawasaki Motors

(UK)

Ltd

for

permission

to

reproduce

certain illustrations used

In

this

manual.

We would also like to thank the Avon

Rubber

Company,

who

kindly

supplied
Information and technical assistance on tyre
fitting, and NGK

Spark

plugs

(UK)

Ltd

for

information on spark plug maintenance and

electrode conditions.

Thanks are also due

to

the Kawasaki

Information

Service and Kel Edge for

supplying colour transparencies. The main

front

cover

photograph

was

taken

by Phil

Flowers. The Introduction, "Kawasaki -

The

Green Meanies" was written by Julian

Ryder.

buckets

over the

top

of

the

valve stem. The new design allowed

the inlet tracts to be straightened out.

Externally, the

ZX600G was slimmer and a

lot easier on the eyes than the

ZX600A,

although that pearlescent white

paintwork

does

look a lillie

dated

in the late '90s!
Naturally, Kawasaki added loads of lightness,
bring it down a Whopping 25 kg to 180 kg but
didn't go with the trend back to bigger wheals
sean

on

the competition, giving it a 16-incher

at the back

as

well

as

the fronl. It had the full

set of '805 high-tech

but

the electronic anti-
dive system (ESGS) was quietly dropped on
later models. The character of the bikes were

very similar; both needed to be revved and

worked

hard

to

get

the best

out

of

them,

although there is no

doubt

that the ZX600C

doesn't

Just

look more modern, it goes that

way, too.

The

ZX600A

now

looks

like a 50ft all

rounder

but

in its day it was a cutting edge

sportster. The

ZX600C was much harsher

(especially the rear suspension) and

more

About

this

Manual

T

he aim of this manual is to help you gel
the best value from your motorcycle. It
can

do

so

in

several ways. It can help

you decide what

work must be done, even if

you choose

to

have it

done

by

a dealer: it

provides information and procedures

for

routine maintenance and servicing; and It
offers

diagnostic

and repair procedures

to

follow when trouble occurs.

We hope you use the manual to tackle the

work

yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it

yourself

may

be

quicker

than arranging

an

appointment

to

get the

motorcycle

into

a

dealer

and making the

trips

to leave it and

pick

it up. More importantly, a lot of money

can be

saved by avoiding the expense the

Introduction 0· 7

Kawasaki

ZX600C

focused, but by the
time

it hit the market it had the CBR600 to

deal with.

The

bigger

ZX750F (GPX750R

in

the UK,

Ninja

750R

in

the

US)

had similar problems as

it tried to make up for the

flop

that was the
ZX750G (GPZ750R), only more of them; the
FZ,

VFR

and GSX-R 750s. This time the new

bike wasn't a derivation of a

previous model

as the brand

new

68 x 51.5 mm bore and

stroke show, dimensions which, incidentally,
were carried

over to the ZXR750. Externally it

looked so like the

600 that it was difficult to

know which was which without looking

at

the

decals. The 18-inch rear wheel

on

the 750
was a visual clue, though. It rode like the
smaller bikes, too, with a pronounced
reluctance to

do

anything

In

the low

or

mid-

range followed by a manic rush at the top end.

The chassis seemed to tighten up when you
hit the

power

and

what

seemed like a soft,

gutless bike

in

town turned into a rev hound

when you hit the open road;

all the classic

characteristics of a sporty

KawasakI.

shop must pass on to you to cover Its labour
and

overhead costs.

An

added benefit

is

the

sense of satisfaction

and accomplishment

that you

feal after doing the job yourself.

References

to

the left

or

right side of the

motorcycle

assume you are sitting on the

seat, facing forward.
We

take

great

pride

in

the

accuracy

of

information

given

in

this

manual,

but

motorcycle

manufacturers

make

alterations

and design

changes

during

the

production

run

of a particular

motorcycle

of

which

they

do

not

inform

us. No liability

can

be

accepted

by

the

authors

or

publishers

for

loss,

damage

or

injury

caused

by

any

errors

in,

or

omissions

from,

the

information

given.

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o·s Safety first!

Professional mechanics are trained

in

safe

work

ing

procedures.

However

enthusiastic

you may

be

about

getting on with

the

job

al

hand, take

the

time

to

ensure

that

your safety

IS

not put at risk. A

moment's

lack

of

attention

can

result

in an

accident,

as

can

failure

to

observe

simple

precautions.

There will always be new ways of having

accidents,

and

the

following

is

not

a

comprehensive list of all dangers; it is

intended

rather

to

make

you

aware

of

the

risks

and

to

encourage a safe

approach

to

all

work

you carry

out

on

your

bike.

Asbestos

• Certain friction. insulating, sealing

and

other

products

- such as

brake

pads,

clutch

linings, gaskets. etc. -

contain

asbestos.

Extreme care must

be

taken to avoid

Inhalation

of

dust from such products since it

is hazardous

to

health.

If

in

doubt,

assume

that they

do

contain asbestos.

Fire

• Remember at all times that petrol is highly
flammable. Never smoke

or

have any kind

of

naked

flame

around,

when

working

on

the

vehicle, But

the

risk

does

not

end

there - a
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by
two

metal surfaces contacting each other, by

careless

use

of

tools, or

even by

static

electricity built

up

In your body under certain

conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which

in

a confined

space

is highly explosive, Never

use

petrol as a cleaning

solvent,

Use an

approved safety solvent.

Remember ...

x

Don

't

start

the

engine

without

first

ascertaining

that

the

transmission

is

in

neutral.

X Don't suddenly remove the pressure cap

from a hot cooling system - cover it

with

a

cloth and release

the

pressure gradually first,

or

you may get scalded

by

escaping

coo

lant.

It Don't

attempt

to

drain oil until

you

are

sure it has

cooled

sufficiently

to

avoid

scalding you.

It

Don

't

grasp

any

part

of

the

engine

or

exhaust

system

without

first

ascertaining

that it

Is

cool enough not to

bum

you.

X

Don

't

allow

brake

fluid

or

antifreeze

to

contact the machiFle's paintwork

or

plastic

components.

It

Don't siphon

toxic

liquids

such

as fuel.

hydraulic

fluid

or

antifreeze by

mouth,

or

allow them to remain on

your

skin.

X Don't inhale dust - it may be injurious to
health (see Asbestos heading).

It

Don't allow any spilled oil

or

grease

to

remain on the floor - wipe it

up

right away,

before

someone slips on it.

X

Don't

use

iii-fitting

spanners

or

other

tools wh ich may slip

and

cause injury.

X Don't lift a heavy component which may

be

beyond your

capability·

get

assistance.

•

Always

disconnect

the

battery

earth

terminal before working on any part

of

the fuel

or

electrical system,

and

never

risk spilling

fuel on to a hot engine

or

exhaust.

•

tt

is recommended that a fire extinguisher

of

a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is

kept handy

in

the garage

or

workplace

at

all

times, Never

try

to extinguish a fuel

or

electrical fire with water,

Fumes

• Certain

fumes

are highly

toxic

and can

qu i

ckly

cause

unconsciousness

and

even

death if inhaled to any extent,

Petrol

vapour

comes into this category, as do the vapours

from

certain

solvents

such

as

trichloro-

ethylene, Any draining

or

pouring

of

such

volatile fluids

should

be

done

in a wel l

ventilated area,

• When using cleaning fluids and solvents,
read

the

instructions

carefully, Never

use

materials

from

unmarked

containers -they

may give off poisonous vapours,

• Never run the engine

of

a motor vehicle

in

an

enclosed space such as a garage, Exhaust

fumes

contain

carbon

monoxide

which

is

extremely poisonous; if you need

to

run the

engine, always do so in the open air or at least

have

the

rear

of

the

vehic

le outSi

de

the

workplace,

The

battery

• Never cause a spark,

or

allow a naked

light near the vehicle's battery,

It will normally

be giving

off

a certain amount

of

hydrogen

gas, which is highly explosive,

X

Don't

rush

to

finish a

job

or

take

unverified short cuts.

It

Don't

allow

child

ren

or

animals in

or

around an unattended vehicle.

X

Don't

Inflate a tyre

above

the

recommended

pressure. Apart from

overstressing the carcass, In extreme cases

the

lyre

may

blow

off forcibly.

.....

Do

ensure that the mact1ine is supported

securely

at

aU

times.

This

is

especialty

important when the machine is blocked

up

to aid wheal

or

fOf!<;

removal.

V Do take care when attempting

10

loosen

a stubborn nut

or

bolt. It

Is

generally better

to

pull on a spanner, rather than push,

so

that

if

you

slip, you fall

away

from

the

machinE)

rather than onto it.

V

Do

wear eye

protection

when

using

power

tOOls

such

as

drill,

sander, bench

grooer

etc.

V

Do

UM a barrier

cream on

your

hands

prior

to

undertaking

dirty

jobs

- It will

protect

your skin from infection as well

as
making the dirt easier to remove afterwards;
but

make sure

your

hands aren't fell

slippery. Note that long-term

contact

with

used engine

Oil

can be a health hazard.

.....

Do

keep

loose

clothing

(cuffs. ties

etc

.

and long hair)

well out

of

the

way

of

moving

mechanical parts.

•

Always

disconnect

the

battery

ground
(earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
electrical systems (except where noted),

• If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
when

charging

the

battery

from

an external

source,

Do not charge at

an

excessi

ve

rate

or

the battery may burst.

•

Take care when topping up, cleaning

or

carrying

the

battery

, The acid electrolyte,

evenwhen

diluted,

is very corrosive and

should not be

allowed to contact the eyes or
skin, Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
or

a face shield, If you ever need to prepare

el

ectrolyte

yourself, always

add

the acid

slowly to the water; never

add

the water to the

acid,

Electricity

• When

using

an el

ectric

power

tool,

inspection light

etc" always ensure that

the

appliance

is

correctly

connected to its plug

and

that,

where

necessary, it is properly

grounded

(earthed), Do

not

use

such

appliances

in

damp

conditions

and, again,

beware

of

creating

a spark

or

applying

excessive heat in

the

vicinity

of

fuel

or

fuel
vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet
national safety standards,

• A severe electric

shock

can result from

touching certain parts

of

the electrical system,

such as the spark plug wires

(HT leads), when

the

engine is running

or

being cranked,

particu lariy

if

components

are

damp

or

the
insulation is defective. Where an electronic
ignition system

is

used, the secondary (HT)

voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

.....

Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before

working on

the

vehicle - especially the

electricai system.

tI

Do keep your

wo

rk area tid

y·

it is only

too

easy to fall

over

articles left lying

around.

tI

Do exercise caution when compressing

springs

for

removal

or

Installation. Ensure

that t

he

tension is applied and released in a

controlled

manner, using suitable

tools
which preclude the possibility of the spring
escaping violently,
tI

Do

ensure that any lifting tackle used has

a

sa

fe working load rating adequate for the

job

.

tI

Do

get

someone

to

check

periodically

that

all is well, when working alone on the

vehicle.

.....

Do carry out work

in

a logical sequence

and

check

tha

t everything

is

correctly

assembled and tightened afterwards.

V

Do

remember that your vehicle's safety

affects

that

of

yourself and others.

If

In

doub

t on any point, get professtonal advice.

•

If

in

spite

of

followi

ng

these precautions,
you are unfortunate enough to injure
yourself,

seek medical attention

as

soon as

possible.

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Frame and

engine

numbers

The frame serial

number

Is

stamped

into the

right side

of

the steering head and the engine

serial number is stamped

Into the right engine

case.

Both

of

these

numbers

should

be

recorded and

kept

in a safe place

so

they can

be furnished

to

law

enforcement

officials

In

the event of theft.

The frame serial number. engine serial

number and carburetor identification

number

shou ld also

be

kepi

in

a handy place (such

as

with your driver's licence) so they are always
available when purchasing

or

ordering parts

lor your machine.

The

frame

number

Is s

tamped

on

the

right

side

of

the s

teering

head

The

engine

number

(arrow) is

sta

mped Int

o

the

top

of

the

crankcase,

just

inboard

of

the cover

Buying

spare

parts

Once you have found all

Ihe

IdentificatIon

numbers. record them for reference when

buying parts. Since the manufacturers change
specifications, parts and vendors (companies
that manufacture various components on the
machine), providing the

10

numbers

is

the only

way to be reaSOflBbly sure

that

you ara buying

the correct parts.

Whenever possible,

take

the

worn

part to

the dealer

so

dlrecl comparison

With

the

new

Identification numbers 0. 9

US

models

US models covered

by

this manual are

as

follOWS:

ZX600A (Ninja

BOOR)

.........

..

Al

(1985),

A2

(1986),

A3

(1987)

ZX600B

- Aluminum frame model . Bl (1987)

ZX600C (Ninja 600R) •

Cl

(1968), C2 (1989), C3 (1990), C4 (1991),

C5 (1992). C6 (1993). C7 (1994), C8 (1995),

C9

(1996),

Cl0

(1997)

ZX750F (N'nja 7saR)

Fl

(1987), F2 (1988),

F3

(1989),

F4

(1990)

UK

ZX600 A

models

(GPZ600R):

Year

MOdel

Code

Initial

frame

number

Initial engine

number

ZX600AEOOOOOI

on

ZX600AE025001 on

ZX600AE052040 on

ZX6OOZE052{)4()

on

ZX6OOAE069501

on

1985 ZX600 A 1 ZX6OOA-000001

on

1986 ZX600

A2

ZX6QOA·025001 on

1987 ZX600

A3

ZX6OOA-Q46001on

1968 ZX600

A4/MA

ZX6OOA..05400t on

1989/90 ZX600

A!SIASA

ZX6OOA·055801 on

UK

ZX600 C

models

(GPXSOOR):

Year

MOdel

Code

Initial

frame

number

Initial

engine

number

ZX600AE052040

on

ZX600AE069501

on

ZX6OOAf069501 on

ZXSOOAE069501

on

ZXSOOAE069501

on

1988 ZX600

C1

ZX600C-OOOOOlon

1989

ZXSOOC2

ZX600C-Ol1SOlon

1990-92 ZX600 C3 ZX600C..QI9001 on

1993 ZX600

C6

ZXeooc.eooool

on

1994-96

ZX600C7

ZX6OOC-6015510n

UK

ZX750F

models

(GPX750R):

Year

Model

Code

Initial

frame

number

Initial

engine

number

ZX750FEOOOOOt

to

018000

ZX750FE01800t

10024000

ZX750FE02400t on

1987 ZX750

Fl

ZX750F·OOOOOI

to 016200

1988 ZX750

F2

ZX750F-016201100202oo

1989-91 ZX750

F3

ZX750F-020201

on

componeot can

be

made. Along the trail from

the

manufacturer

10

the parts shelf, there are

numerous

places that the part can end

up

with

the wrong number

or

be

listed iocolTeclly.

The

two

places to purchase new parts

fOl"

your

motorcycle·

the accessory

stOl"e

and the

franchised

dealer·

diller

in the type

of

parts

they carry. While dealers can obtain

virtually

ev9fy

part for your motorcycle, the accessory

dealer is usually limited to nOflTlal high wear
items

such

as

shock

absorbers.

tune-up

parts, various engine gaskets, cables. chains.

brake

parts,

etc.

Rarely will an accessory

outlet

have

major

suspension

components,

cytinders. transmiSSion gears,

or

cases.

Used

parts

can

be

obtained for roughly half

the price

of

new ones.

but

you can't always

be

sure

of

what you're getting. Once aga,n, take
your worn part to the breaker (wrecking yard)
for direct comparison.

Whether buying new, used

or

rebuilt parts,

the

best

course

Is

to

deal

directly

With

someone

who

specialises in parts for your

particular make.

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

all-guides.com

0-1 0 Daily (pre-ride)

checks

1

Engine/transmission

oil level

Before

you

start:

'"

Take

the motorcycle

on

a short

run

to allow

It

to

reach normal operating temperature.

Caution: Do not run the engine

in

8n

enclosed space

suc

h as a garage or shop.

'"

Stop the engine and support the

motorcycle

In an

upright

position

on

level

ground

. Position

the

motorcycle

on

its

ceotrestand. Allow it to stand undisturbed

lor

five ffiloules to allow Ihe oil level

10

stabilise.

The

correct

oil

• Modem, high-revving

IH1gines

place great

demands

on

their

oil. It is very

important

that

the

correct oil for your bjke is used,

• Always

top

up

with a

good

quality

011

of

the specified

type

and

viSCOSity

and

do

not

OyertJII

the

engine.

"'.",.

API grade

SG

Oil

visecnlty

Cold d,mates

SAE

lOWf40

or

lOW/50

Warm climates

SAE

20Wf40

or

20W/5O

v'The

oil level is viewed through

the

window

In

Ihe clutch cover on the righi-hand side

of

the

engine.

Wipe

Ihe glass clean

before

Inspection to make the check

easier.

Bike

care:

• If

you

have to add oil frequently, you should

check

whether

you

have any oil leaks. If there

Is

no

sign

of

011

leakage

from

the

joints

and

gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see

Fault Finding).

2

If the level is below

the

MIN

line,

remove

the

filler

cap

from

the

top

of

the

clutch

cover

...

2

Clutch

fluid

level (750 models)

A

Wamlng:

Brake

and

clutch

,

hydraulic

fluid

can

hann

your

•

eyes

and

damage

painted

surlaces.,

so

use

extreme

caution

whfNJ

handling

and

pouring

it. Do

not

use

fluid

that

has

been

standing

Op6n

for

some time, as it absorbs moisture from

the

sir

which

can

cause

a

loss

of

clutch

effectiveness.

Before

you

start:

."

PoSition the motorcycle on Its centrestand

and

turn

the

handlebars

until

the

top

01

the

master cylinder

IS

as level as

possible

.

2

Remove

the

two

screws

to free

the

reservoir cap.

."

Make

sure you have

the

correct

hyd

raulic

Huid.

DOT 4 is recommended.

Bike

care:

•

If

the

fluid

reservoir

requires repeated

topping-up this is

an

Indication

of

an hydraulic

leak

somewhere In the system, which should

be

investigated immediately.

•

Check

for

signs

of

fluid leakage from the

hydraulic hoses

and

components

- If found,

rectify immediately.

• Check the operation

of

the clutch; if there is

evidence

of

air

In

the

system (spongy feel to

lever), it must

be

bled (Chapter 28).

Top

up

with new clean hydraulic Huid

of

the recommended type

so

that the level

is

above

the

LOWER level mark.

Take

care

to

avoid spills (see

Wam

lng above).

1

The oil level should lie between Ihe MAX

and MIN level lines on the window

3

...

and

top

up

with

the

recommended

grade and type

of

oil, to bfing the level

up

to the MAX line on the window.

1

Clutch fluid level is checked via
sightglass

- It

must

be above LOWER

level

mark(arrow).

4

Ensure

thai

the

diaphragm

Is

correctly

folded before Installing

the

cover.

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Daily (pre-ride)

checks

D

."

3

Brake

fluid

levels

Wamlng: Brake and clut

ch

AI

hydraulic fluid

can ha

rm your

~

ey

es a

nd

damage pa

inted

s

urface

s,

so

us

e

extrem

e

ca

ution when handling B

nd

pouring it Bnd cover

surrounding

surfaces

with

ra

g. Do not

use

fluid

that

has

been

stand

ing open

for

some

tim

e,

as

It

abs

orb

s

moisture

from the air

which can cause a

da

ngerous

/0$$

of

braking

effectivene"-

Before you start:

."

Position

the motOfcycle

on

Its centrestand,

and turn the handlebars until the

top

of the

Iront brake master cylinder Is

as

level

as

possible. Remove the righ t side cover (see

Chapter

8)

to

access

the

rear brake fluid

reservoir.

".

Make sure you have the correct hydraulic

fluid·

DOT 4

is

recommended.

Wrap a rag

around the reservoir being

worked

on

to

ensure that any spillage

does

not come into

contact with painted surfaces.

3

Top

up

with

new

clean hydraulic fluid

of

the recommended type, until the level Is
abo

.... e the

LOWER mark:.

Tak:e

care

to

avoid spills (see Wa

ming

above).

Bike

care:

• The fluid in

the

front and rear brak:e master

cylinder

reser

....

oirs

will

drop

slightly

as

the

brak:e pads wear

down.

Remo

....

e the right side

co

....

er

for

access

to

the

rear brak:e

fluid

reservoir.

•

If

either

fluid

reservoir

requires

repeated

topping-up

thiS is an indication

of

an hydraulic

leal<;

somewhere in the system. which should

be

inlJeStigated immediately.

1 The front brak:e flUid le'lel is check:ed via

the

sightglass In the reservoir - it must

be

atxNe

the LOWER

le

....

el marll; (arrow).

4

Ensure

that the

diaphragm

is

correctly

seated before Installing the

co

....

er.

4 Suspension,

steering

and

drive

chain

Suspension and Steering: Drive chain:

• Check: for

signs

of

fluid leak:age from

the

hydraulic hoses

and

components

- If found,

rectify

Immediately.

•

Check:

the operation

of

both brak:es before

tak:ing

the

machine

on

the

road; if there is

e

....

idence

of

air

In

the

system (spongy feel

to

le

....

er

or

pedaQ,

It must

be

bled

as

described In

Chapter

7.

2

If

the

le

....

el

is

below

the

LOWER level

marll;, remo

....

e the

two

screws (arrows)

to

free the reservoir cover, theo remo

....

e the

cover, and

diaphragm.

5

The rear brak:e fluid

le

....

el can

be

seen

through

the

translucent

body

of

the

reservoir. The fluid must lie between the

LOWER and

UPPER

level mark:s.

Top

up

as

described for the !root reservoir.

•

Check:

that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without

binding.

• Check:

that

the

drive chain slack:

isn't

e)(cessi

....

e,

and

adjust

if

necessary (see Chapter 1),

• Check

that

the

suspension is adjusted as required.

.

If

the chain looks dry, lubricate It (see Chapter

1),

• Check that

the

steering moves smoothly from Iock:-to-Iock.

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

0'12

Daily (pre-ride) checks

5

Coolant

level

.&

Waming: DO

NOT

remove the

,

radiator

pressure

cap

to

lKkJ

• coo/ant. Topping up is done lila

the

coo/ant

reservoir

tank

fil/er.

DO

NOT

leave

open

conte/nttrS

of

coolant

about,

as

It Is poisonous.

Before

you

start:

.....

Make

sure

you

have a supply

of

coolant

available

(a

millture of 50%

sotl

water and

50%

corrosion

Inhibited

ethylene

glycol

antifreeze is needed),

1

On ZX600A

and

B models check coolant

level

through the slot In the lower fairing.

level

shOl.lld

lie

between lower mark (1)

and

full

mark

(2). Top

up

via filler

cap

(3).

II'

Place

the

motorcycle

on

its

centrestand

whilst checking the level. Make sure the

motorcycle

is on level ground,

ttl

Make

sure

the

engIne IS cOld. Do

not

perlorm

this

check

just

after

the

engine has

been run.

Bike care:

• Use only the specified coolant

mixture,

It

Is

important that antifreeze

is

used In the cooling

system

all year round,

not

just

during

the

winter months. Don"

top-up

with waler alone,

as the antifreeze will become

100

diluted.

2

On

ZX600C

models

tum

the

hancfIebars

to

the right and

look

Into the

left

side

of

the

upper

fairing

to

check

Ihe

coolant

level.

View level through

WindOW

(1).

Level

should lie

between

fun

(2)

and lower (3) level

marks.

6 Legal

and

safety

checks

Lighting

and

signalling:

• Take a minute

to

check

that

the headlight,

taillight,

brake light, Instrument lights and

tum

signals all

work

correctly.

•

Check

that

the

horn

sounds

when

the

switch is operated.

• A

working

speedometer

is a

statutory

requirement In the UK.

Safety:

•

Check

that

the

throttle

grip

rotates
smoothly and snaps shut when released, In all
steering positions. Also check

fOf'

the correct

amount

of

freeplay (see Chapter

1).

• On all

ZX600

models, check that the clutch

lever operates

smoothly

and with the correct

amount

of

free play (see Chapter 1).

•

Check

that

sldestand

return

spring

holds

the

stand

securely

up

when

retracted.

The

same applies

to

the centrestand.

•

Check

that the eoglne STOP switch

worb

correctly

.

•

00

not overfill the reservoir tank, If the

coolant IS significantly

above

the upper line at

any

time,

the

surplus

coolant

should

be

siphoned

off

to prevent it

from

being expelled

out

01

the

bteather

hose when the engine

is

running .

•

1'

the coolant level falls steadily, check the

system

'Of'

leaks as descnbed

in

Chapter

1.

II

no

leaks

are

found and the level still coollnues

to

fall, II is recommended that the machine be

taken

to

a Kawasaki dealer

who

will pressure

test the system.

3

On

ZX750F

models

check

coolant

level

through

window

in the right inner falnng .

level

of

coolant

in

tank

(1)

should

lie

between futl (2)

and

lower

(3) marks.

Top

up

via filler

cap

(4).

Fuel:

• This

may

seem obvious, but check that you

have enough fuel

to

complete your journey. If

you notice signs

of

fuel leakage - rectify the

cause Immediately.

• Ensure you use the correct grade unleaded
or

lOw-lead fuel see

Chapter

4

SpeclficaliOns.

All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

7 Tyres

Tyre care:

•

Check

the

lyres

caref

ully

for

cuts,

tears,

embedded

nails or

other

sharp

objects

and

excessIVe

wear.

Operation of the

motorcycle

with excessively worn

lyres

Is extremely

hazardous, as

traclion

and handling are

directly affected.

•

Check

the

condition

of

the

lyre

lIalll& and

ensure the

dust

cap

is

in place.

•

Pick

out

any

stones

or

nalls

which

may

helle

become

embedded

in the tyre tread.

11

1

Check

the tyre pressures when the tyres

are c

old

aod

keep

them

properly

Innaled

The

correct

pressures:

•

The

lyres

mUSI

be

checked

when

col

d,

not Immediately

after

rid.ng.

Note

that

low

lyre

pressures

may

cause

the

lyre

to

slip

on

the

rim

or

come

off. High

lyre

pressures

Will

cause

abnormal tread

wear

and unsafe handling.

• Use

an

accurate pressure gauge.

•

Proper

air

pressure

will

increase

lyre

life

and

provide

maximum

stability

and

ride

comfort.

Daily (pre-ride) checks

0'13

left, they will eventually penetrate through ttIe
casing

and

cause

a puncture.

• II tyre damage is apparent,

Of

unexplained

loss

of

pressure Is experienced, seek the

adVice

of

a tyre fitting specialist without delay.

Tyre

tread

depth:

•

At

the time

of

writing

UK

law

requires that

tread

depth

must

be

at

least 1

mm

over

3/01

of

the tmad breadth all the way around the tyre,
with

no

bald patches.

Many

riders, however.

consider 2 mm

tread

deplh

minimum

10

be

a

2

Measure tread

dep

th at t

he

centre

of the

lyre

USing

a tread

depth

gauge

Model

ZXSOO -all

models

ZX750F

Up

to

98

kg

(215 Ibs) load

Above

98

kg (215 Ibs) load,

or

high speed

saler

limit.

Kawasaki

recommend

the

follOWing mi

nimum

tread depths.

Regular speed

Front

Up

10

80

mph

(130 kmh) 1 mm

Above

80

mph

(130

kmhl

1 mm

Rear

2mm
3mm

• Many tyr

es

now

incorporate wear Indicators

in the tread.

IdetlUIy

the

triangular pointer,

or

TWI mar1ting,

oolhe

lyre

sidewall

to

locate Ihe

iodicalor

bar

aod replace

the

lyre if

the lread

has

worn

down

to

the

bar.

3

Tyre

tread

wear

indicator

bar

and

lIs

locat.on marking (usually either an

arrow,

a

triangle

or

the letters

TWll

on

the

sidewall

(arrows).

Froot

Rear

32.-

36".

32

pO'

36""

,..-

41 p

si

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0

0

14 Daily (pre-ride) checks

Notes

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all-guides.com

Chapter

1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Alrfiller

element·

clean . . . . . . . . . . .

..

14

Air suction valves -

check

(US models) • • • • • • • • . • • • . • • . • • • • •

••

4

Alternator

dnve

belt -

check

and

adjustment (750 models)

.......

25

AntJ-dive

seats

and metal

pipe

• replacement (600 A and B models) .

31

Battery electrolyte leveVspecific gravity -

check.

. . .

.......

17

Brake and

clutch

fluid -

change

. . • . . • . • . . . . . .

..•..•.

30

Brake

cal

iper

and

master cylinder seals - replacement

.....

32

Brake

and

clutch

hoses·

replacement

.......................

37

Brake

pads

- wear

check

.................................

10

Brake

system - general check

..............................

11

Carburetlor synchronisation - check and adjusimenl • . . . . • • . • •

••

6

carburettor

warmer

system

components

- check

(UK

models,

where

fitted)

....•..•..•..•.....•..•.••..•.•.••.......•

29

Clutch·

check

and adjustment (600 models) . . . . . . . . 8

Clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder

seals·

replacement

(750 models)

...........

. . . . . . . . . . .

..

33

Cooling

system·

check

.......

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.....

26

Cooling

system·

draining, flushing and refillill9 . . . . .

....

27

Cylinder

compression·

check

.............................

38

Drive

chain -

check

and

adjustment

..

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

..

2

Dnve

chain - lubrication

................

......

. . .

..

1

Degrees

of

difficulty

Drive chain and

sprockets

- wear

check

. . . . . . 9

Engine oiVfUter -

change

....

..

. .

.... . ... . ..............

13

Evaporative emission control system (Ca

llfom

ia

models)·

check

..

7

Exhaust

system·

check

. . . .

..

. . . .

.......

18

Fasteners -

check

......

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

............

19

Fork oil - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

...........

28

Fuel hoses - replacement

..............................

36

Fuel system -

check

and filler

cleaning.

.

...............

22

Idle speed -

check

and

adjustment.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

..

5

lubrication

- general . . . . . . . . .

12

Spark plugs - clean and gap .

..

. .

...

...................

. 3

Spark plugs - replacement

................................

24

Steering

head

bearings -

check

and adjustment

...............

15

Steering head bearings -

lubrication.

. . . . . .

.......

34

Suspension -

check.

. . . . . . . . . . . .

.. . .................

39

Swingarm and Unl-trak linkage - bearing lubrication

.......

.....

23

Throttle cables - freeplay

check

and adjustment .

21

Tyreslwheels - general

check

. 16

Valve clearances - chec:ll; and adjustment . 20

Wheel

bearings -

check

and lubrication

..

. . . . . . . . . . . .

35

Easy, SlitabIe

for

~

Fai1y easy,

SI.iI:abIe

~

F

....

dfficuIt,

~

Difficult,

""""'"

to<

~

Verydfficult,

~

ncMce

witt! ittIe

for

be;}ill

181

with

--

'"

"""""'"'

~

experienced

OY

~

""""'"

"'"""'"

00'

~

""""""""

....

~

expel

alee

~

DIY

medali;

~

n

IElChalIic

'"

or

plOfessiouai

~

1

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•

1. 2 Servicing specifications

Engin

e

Spar1<

plugs -

600

models

Type

US models

.........

.

UK and Canadian

models

Gap

....

Spark plugs - 750 models

Type - US

Standard plug
For racing

...

For

cold

operation

Type - Canada

Standard

plug

For racing

.........

.

FOf

cold

operation

Type

-UK

Standard and racing plug

For cold operation .

Gap.......

.

..........

.

Engine Idle speed - 600 models

All except California

models

..•.......•..•..•..•..•..•...

California models

..........•..•....•.....•..•..•..•...

Engine Idle

speed

- 750 models

All except California

models

. . . . . • . . • . • •

.• . •.••.....••..•..

california

models

...........

.

...............

•

...........

Valve clearances (COLD engine) -

600

models

Intake

.•.•••..•..•.••.•••.•••.••...............

Exhaust

....................................

.

Valve clearances (COLD engine) - 750 models

Intake

....... . ........

.

Exhaust

..

.

..........

.

Cylinder compression pressure - 600 models

Acceptable range

.•..•..•....•..•..•..

Maximum difference between cylinders .

Cylinder compression pressure - 750 models

Acceptable range

.....

.

Maximum

difference between cylinders

•..

Garburettor synchronization (vacuum difference between cylinders)
Cylinder numbering

(from left

side

to

right side

01

bike)

.••••••.••.•

Finng

order

......

..

................................

.

Miscellaneous

Brake

pad

minimum thickness

...•..•.•...•..•..•..•..•..•..•

Freeplay adjustments

Throttle

gnp

............•.....•..•...............

Clutch lever (gap between lever and lever bracket when !reeplay
Is taken up) - 600 models

....•..•....•....

Drive chain

Slack

..

2Q-hnk length

Battery electrolyte specific gravity

•• . •.••.••

Minimum

lyre

tread

depth

Front

••••••.•••.•.••••••.

Re"

Up

to

80

mph

(130 kmh)

Above

SO

mph

(130 kmh)

Tyre pressures (cold) -

600

modelS

Front

.. . ............•..•..•...............

.....

•..•..

Rear

..............................

.

lyre

pressures (cold) - 750 models
Up

10

215 Ibs (98 kg)

load.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . • . .

.....•.

21510401

100

(98

to

182 kg) load.

or

high

speed

........

.

SUspension

air pressures

Forks -

600

A

and

B models

Rear

shock

absorbef

600 A

and

B

models

600C

models

750 model

NGK D9EA

or

ND

X27ES-U

NGK DRSES

or

ND X27ESR-U

0.6

10

0.7 mm (0.024

to

0.02S in)

NGK D6EA

or

ND

X24ES-U

NGK D9EA

or

ND

X27ES·U

NGK D7EA

or

ND

X22ES·U

NGK DR8ES-L

or

ND X24ESR-U

NGK

DR8ES

or

ND

X27ESR-U

NGK DR7ES

or

ND X22ESR-U

NGK

DA8ES

or

ND X27ESA-U

NGK

DRSES-L

or

DR7ES. ND X24ESR-U

or

X22ESR-U

0.6

to

0.7

mm

(0.02410 0.028

In)

1050:t

50 rpm

13OO:t 50

rpm

950

to

1050

rpm

1200

10

1300

rpm

0.1310

0.18

mm

{O.OO5

to

0.007 in)

O.IS

10

0.23

mm

(0.007

to

0.009 in)

0.08100.13

mm

(0.0031 100.0051

In)

0.12

to

0.17

mm

(0.0047

to

0.0066

In)

10910171

psi

14 psi
139t0213psi

Not specified
Less than 2

em

(0.391 in) Hg
1-2-3-4
1-2-4-3

1.0

mm

(0.040 in)

2

to 3 mm

(O.OS

to

0.12

In)

2

10 3 mm

(0.08 10 0.12 in)

35

to

40

mm

(1.38

to

1.57 in)

323

mm

(12.73 in) maximum

1.280

al68°F

(2O"C)

1.0

mm

(0.040 in)

2.0

mm

(0.079 in)

3.0

mm

(0.118

11'\)

32 psi
36

psi

Front

32 psi

36 psi

7

to

10 psi

01050

psi

01028

psi

01021

PSI

Rear
36 psi
41

psi

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Torque

specifications

011

drain plug

•..........

.

................

.

011

filter mounting bott

.....

...•..••.••..

Coolant drain

boll

............

•.

.

Spark

plugs

.........

•.

.

Valve cover bot1s

.....

•....•..•

..

Alternator mounting

bolts

· 750

models

.........

.

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids

Englneltransmlssion oil

Type

•••.••• " ............••.••.••••......

, ' ,

.......

.

Viscosity

In cold climates

......

..•• • .•••••..............•..

In

wann

climates

................................•..

Capacity· 600 models

With

litter

change

Oil

change

only

Capacity

- 750

models

With fil

ler

change

Oil change only

Coolant

T,pe

Capacity

600

A and B models

and

750 models

..............

.

600

C models

.....••••

•

•••.••.••••..••.....•..•.

Bfake

and

clutch

ftuid

........

.

Fork

011

T,pe

Amount

-

600

A and B

models

Dry fill

At

oil change

..............•..•..•...........

Oil level - 600 A and B

models

(forks fully extended -

no

spring)

..•.

Amount -C1

to

C5 (UK),

Cl

to

C6

(US)

models

Dry

fill

Left

fork

tube

Right

fort<

tube

At

01

1

change

Left fork t

ube

............

.

..................•

•..

•.

Right fork

tube

.......

•

..........................

.

Oil

level-

C1

to

C5

(UK).

Cl

to

C6

(US)

models

(forks fully

compressed

-

no

spring)

Left

fork

tube

...•..• . .•.....•........•.........•..•..

Right

fork

tube

.....••..•.....•..•.......

Amount

- C6 and C7 (UK), C7

to

C10 (US) models

~.

.

...................•..•................

At oil

change

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

...............

.

Oil level -

C6

and C7 (UK),

C7

to

C1

0 (US)

models

(forks fully

compressed -no

spring) .

Amount

- 750

models

~OO

At oil

change

..

. . . . . .

.. . .............................

.

0,1

level - 750

models

(for1o::s

fully

compressed

-

no

spring)

Left

fork

tube

..

.

....•..•..•...

.

Right fork

tube

..........•......

•

Miscellaneous

Wheel

bearings

................

......

.

SW

ing arm pivot bearings

............

.

Cables and

lever pivots

..............

.

Sidestandlcenterstand pivots

........•.

Brake pedaVshift lever

pivots

Throttle

gnp

...................

.

Servicing specifications 1. 3

20

Nm

(14.5 ft-Ibs)

20

Nm

(14.5 ft-Ibs)

8 Nm (69 in-Ibs)

13.3

Nm

(120 in-Ibs)
8 Nm (87 in-Ibs)
39

Nm

(29

ft-Ibs)

API grade SG multigrade

and

fuel

effiCient oil

SAE

10W40

or

10W50

SAE

2OW40

or

2OW5O

3.0

lit (3.2

US

qt, 5.3

Imp

pt)

2.6 lit (2.7

US

ql,

4.6

Imp

pI)

3.2 lit (3.4

US

qt, 5.6 I

mp

pI)

3.0

iiI (3.2 US qt, 5.3

Imp

pI)

50/50

mixture

of

ethylene glycol based anhfreeze and soft water

2.01,1

(2.1

US

qt,

3.5

Imp

pI)

2.3111

(2.4

US

qt,

4.0

Imp

pI)

DOT4

SAE

1

0W20

fork oil

321

±4cc
Approximately 273 cc
334

± 2

mm

(13.16 ± 0.008 in)

311±4cc
356±4CC

Approximately 265 cc
Approxima

tely

305

cc

182 ± 2 mm (7.2 ± 0.008

in)

154 ± 2

mm

(6.07 ± 0.008

In)

349:t4cc

Approximately 300

cc

126:t 2 mm

(4.71 ±

0.008

in)

380:t 4 cc
Approximately 325

cc

120

:t 2 mm

(4.724:t

0.079 in)

149:t 2 mm

(5.866:t

0.G79 in)

Medium

weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Chain and cable lubricant

or

10W30

motor

oil

Chain and cable lubricant

or

10W30

motor

oil

Chain and cable lubricant

or

10W30

motor

oil

Multi-purpose grease

or

dry

film lubricant

1

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1·4

Component locations

1 Rear brake fluid reservoir

2 Battery

3

Steering

head

bearings

4 Front brake fluid reservoir

Component locations on right side

5 Coo/ant

reservoir - 750 models

6

Fork oil drain

plug

7 Brake pads

8 Engine oil window

9 Clutch cable lower adjuster -

600

models

10

Engine oil filler cap

11 Rear brake

pedal height adjuster

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1 Coolant reservoir - 600 C

models

2 Clutch cable

upper

adjuster

-

600 models,

clutch

fluid reservoir -

750 models

Component locations ' 05

Component locations on

left

sitte

3 Fuel tap filter
4 Idle

speed

sdjustfJ(

5

Ai,

filter

6 Drive chain

7 Engine

oil

drain

bolt

and

filter

8 Alternator belt • 750 models

9 Coolant

f9S9fIIOtf

- 600 A

and

B models

10 Brake pads

1

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all-guides.com

1.6

Maintenance schedule

Note: The daily (pre-ride) checks

outlined

in the

owner's

manual

covers those items which

should

be

inspected

on

a daily basis. Always perform

the

pre

-ride inspection

at

every maintenance interval

(in

addition to the procedures listed).

The

intervals listed

below

are the intervals

recommended

by

the manufacturer

for

each

particular operation during the

model

years covered in this manual. Your

owner's

manual

may

have

different intofllals

for

your

model.

Daily

or

before riding

See 'Daily (pre-ride) checks' at the beginning of this

manual.

After the initial 500 miles (800 km)

Note: This check is usually

performed

by a Kawasaki dealer after

th6

first 500 miles

(SOO

km) from new.

Thereafter,

msintenance

is

carried

out

according

to the following intervals

of

the schedule.

Every 200 miles (300 km)

o Lubricate the drive chain (Sec 1).

Every 500 miles (800 km)

11

Check/adjust

the

drive chain slack (Sec

2).

Every 3000 miles (5000 km)

o Clean and

gap

the spark plugs (Sec

3).

o Check the operation

of

the air suction valve -

US

models (Sec

4).

o Check the idle speed (Sec

5).

o Check the carburettor synchronisation

(sec

6).

o Check the evaporative emission control system -

California models (Sec

7).

U Adjust the clutch freeplay - 600 models (Sec

8).

o Check the drive chain and sprockets for wear

(Sec 9).

o Check the brake pads (Sec 10).

[j

Check the brake system (Sec 11).

[j

Lubricate all cables, levers, pedal and stand pivots

(Sec 12).

[1

Change

the

engine oil and oil filter (Sec 13).

C Clean the air filter element (Sec 14).
C Check the steering head bearing adjustment

(Sec 15).

J: Check the tyres

and

wheels (Sec 16).

o Check the battery electrolyte level (Sec 17).

o Check the exhaust system for leaks

(sec

18).

o Check the tightness

of

all

fasteners (Sec 19).

Every 6000 miles (10,000 km)

All

of

the items above plus:

'"]

Check the valve clearances (Sec 20)

o Check the throttle cable freeplay (Sec 21).

L:J

Check the cleanliness

of

the fuel system and the

condition of the

fuel and vacuum hoses (Sec 22).

o Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings and

Uni-trak linkage (Sec 23).

o Replace the spark plugs (Sec 24).

"0 Check and adjust the alternator drive belt - 750

models (Sec 25).

0, Check the cooling system (Sec 26).

Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km)

Oi

Change the coolant (Sec 27).

D Change the fork oil (Sec 28).

Every year

[1

Check the carburettor warmer system components

- UK models only (Sec 29).

Every

two

years

o Change the brake and clutch fluid (Sec

30).

o Replace the anti-dive seals and metal pipe - 600 A

and B models (Sec 31).

o Replace the seals

in

the brake calipers and master

cylinders (Sec 32).

:0

Replace the seals

in

the clutch slave cylinder and

master cylinder - 750 models (Sec 33).

:0

Lubricate the steering head bearings (Sec

34).

e

Check the wheel bearings (Sec 35).
Replace the fuel hoses (Sec 36).
Replace the brake hoses (Sec 37).

Non-scheduled maintenance

"}

Check the cylinder compression (Sec

38).

o Check the suspension (Sec 39).

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Maintenance and servicing

1-7

Introduction

1 This Chapter is designed to help the

home

mechanic

maintain

his/her

motorcycle

for

safety, economy, long life and peak

performance.

2

Deciding

where

to

start

or

plug

into

the

routine

maintenance

schedule

depends

on

several

factors.

If

the

warranty

period

on

your

motorcycle

has

just

expired,

and if

it

has been

maintained

according

to

the

warranty standards, you may want

to

pick

up

routine maintenance as it coincides with

the

next mileage

or

calendar Interval. II you have

owned

the

machine

for

some

time

but

have

never performed any maintenance on

it, then

you

may

want

to

start

at

the

nearest

interval

and

Inclu

de

some

additional

procedures to ensure thai nothing Importa

nt

is overlooked. If you have just

had a major
engine overhaul, then you may want to start
the

maintenance routine from

the

beginning.

If you

have a used

machine

and

have

no

knowledge

of

its

history

or

maintenance

record,

you

may

deSire

to

combine

all

the

checks

into

one

large

service

initially

and

then

settle

into

the

maintenance

schedule

prescribed.

Every 200

miles

(300 km)

1 Drive chain - lubrication

Note:

" the chain is extremely dirty, it should

be

removed

and

cleaned before it's lubricated

(see Chapter

6).

1 The best time to lubricate the chain is after

the

motorcycle

has

been ridden. When

the

chain is warm, the lubricant will penetrate

the

joints between the side plates, pins, bushings

and

rollers to

provide

lubrication

of

the

in

temalload

bearing areas.

2

Use a good

quality

chain

lubricant

and

apply

it to

the

area where

the

side

plates

overlap -

not

the

middle

of

the

roHers (see

Illustration).

After applying the lubricant, let it

soak

in a few minutes before wiping off any

excess.

Caution:

If

one

of

the

commercial

aerosol

chain

lubricants

is

used,

make

sure

It

Is

marlced

as

being

suitable

for

O-ring

chaIns.

Every 500

miles

(800 km)

2 Drive chain -

check

and

adjustment

Check

1 A neglected drive chain

won't

last long and

can

quickly

damage

the

sprockets.

Routine

chain adjustment and lubrication isn't

difficult
and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket
life.
2 To

check

the

chain,

place

the

bike

on

its

2.3 Push

up

on

the

boUom

run

of

the

chain

and

measure

how

far

it

deflects

centerstand

and

shift

the

transmission

into

Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off.

3

Push

up

on the bottom run

of

the chain and

measure

the

slack

midway

between the

two

sprockets

(see

Illustration),

then

compare

your measurements

to

the value listed

In

this

Chapter's Specifications.

As wear occurs, the

chain

will actually stretch,

which

means

adjustment

usually involves removing

some

slack

from

the

chain. In

some

cases

where

lubrication has been neglected, corrosion and

galling may cause

Ihe

links

to

bind and kink,

which

effecUvely shortens the chain's length.

If

2.6

loosen

the

locknuts

on

the

adjusting

bolts

3 Before beginning any maintenance

or

repair,

the

machine

should

be cleaned

thoroughly,

especially

around

the oil filter,

spark

plugs, valve cover, side panels,

carburettors,

etc.

Cleaning will help ensure
that dirt does not contaminate the engine and
will allow you to detect wear and damage that
could otherwise easily

go

unnoticed.

4 Certain

maintenance

information

Is

sometimes printed on decals attached to the

motorcycle.

If

the

information on

the

decals

differs

from

that

included

here, use

the

information on the decal.

1.2

Hold

the

plastic

nozzle

near

the

edge

of

the

chain

and

turn

the

wheel

by

hand

-

as

the

lubricant

sprays

out

repeat

the

procedure

on

the

inside

edge

of

the

chain

the chain is tight between the sprockets, rusty
or

kinked,

ii's

time to replace It with a new one.

Adjustment

4 Rotate

the

rear wheel until the chain

is

positioned

with

the

least amount

of

slack

present.

5 Loosen

the

torque

link-la-rear

caliper
holder bolt.
6 Loosen

and

back-off

the

locknuts

on

the
adjuster bolts (see illustration).
7 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle
nut (see

illustration).

2.7 Remove

the

COUer

pin

and

loosen

the

axle

nut

1

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1.8

Every 500 miles (800 km)

a Turn the axle adjusting bolts on both sides
of

the swing arm

untillhe

proper chain tension

is obtained. Be sure

to

tum the adjusting bolts

evenly to keep the rear wheel

in

alignment. If

the adjusting bolts reach the end of

their

travel, the chain

is

excessively worn and

should

be

replaced with a

new

one

(see

Chapter

6).

9 When the chain has the correct amount

01

slack, make sure the marks on

the

adjusters

correspond

to the same relative marks on

each side

of

the

swingarm (see

illustration).

Tighten the axle nut

to

the torque listed

in

the

Chapter 7 Specifications, then install a

new

cotter pin (split pin).

If

necessary. turn the nul

an additional amount to line

up

the

cotler

pin

(split pin) hole with the

castellalions

in

the nul

-

don't

loosen the nut

to

do

this.

10

Tighten

the

locknuts

and the

torque

link

nut securely.

Every 3000

miles

(5000 km)

3 Spark plugs -

clean

and

gap

1 This

motorcycle

is

equipped

with

spark

plugs that have 12

mm

threads and an

18

mm

wrench hex.

Make

sure

your

spark

plug

socket

is

the correct size before attempting to

remove the plugs.

2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then

disconnect

the

spark plug

caps

from

the
spark plugs. If available, use compressed air
to

blow

any accumulated debris from around

the

spark plugs. Remove

the

plugs

(see

illustration).

3.2 Use

an

extension

and a deep

socket

to

remove

the

spark

plugs

3.6a

Using a wire

type

gauge

to

check

the

plug

gap

3

Inspect

the

electrodes

for

wear.

Both

the

center

and

side

electrodes

should

have

square edges and

the

side electrode should

be

of

uniform thickness.

Look

for excessive

deposits

and

evidence

of a cracked

or
chipped insulator around the center electrode.
Compare your spark

plugs to the colour sparl<

plug

reading chart at the end

of

this manual.

Check

the

threads,

the

washer

and

the

porcelain insulator

body

for cracks and other

damage.

4

If

the electrodes are not excessively worn,
and if the deposits can be easily removed with
a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and
reused

~f

no

cracks

or

chips are visible

in

the

insulator).

If

in

doubt

concerning the condition

of

the plugs, replace them with new ones, as

the expense is

minimal.

5 Cleaning

spark

plugs by

sandblasting

is
permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a
high flash-point solvent afterwards.
6 Before

installing new plugs, make sure they

are

the

correct

type

and

heat range. Check

the

gap

between

the

electrodes, as they are
not preset. For best results, use a wire-type
gauge rather than a flat gauge to

check

the

gap

(see

illustration).

If

the

gap

must

be

adjusted, bend

the

side electrode only and be

very careful not to chip

or

crack the insulator

nose

(see Illustration). Make sure the washer

Is

in

place before installing each plug.

7

Since

the

cylinder

head is

made

of
aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged,
thread the plugs into the head by hand.

• •

3.6b Bend

the

side

electrode

only,

as

indicated

by

the

arrows

2.9 The

mark

on

each

adjuster

should

be

aligned

with

the

same

relative

marks

on

each

side

of

the

swlngarm

Since

the

plugs

are

quite

recessed, slip

a

short

hmgth

of

hose

over

the

end

of

the

plug

to

use

as a

tool

to

thread

It

Into

position.

The

hose

will

grip

the

plug

well

enough

to tum it,

but

will

start

to

slip

if

tha

plug

begins

to

CTOSS-

thread

in

the

hole.

~

If

a

stripped

spark

plug

•

thread

is

discovered,

note

HINT

that n can

be r&paired

by

Installing a thread

insart

-

refer

to

Tools

and

Workshop

Tips

in

the

Reference section

of

this

manual

fo,

details.

8 Once the plugs are finger tight.

tile

job

can

be finished with a socket.

If

a torque wrench

is

available, tighten the

sparl<

plugs to the torque

listed

in

this Chapter's Specifications. If you do

not have a torque wrench, tighten the plugs

finger tight (until the washers

bottom

on the
cylinder head) then use a wrench to tighten
them

an

additional 1/4

him

. Regardless

of

the

method used,

do

not over-tighten them.

9 Reconnect the spark plug caps.

4 Air suction valves -

check

(US

models)

1 The air

suction

valves, installed on US

models only, are one-way

check

valves that

allow fresh air to flow Into the exhaust ports.

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4.4

Details

of

the

air

suctlon

valves

and

hoses

1 Vacuum switching

va/va

2

Air

suction vs/ve

3 Hose to air filter

housJng

The suction developed by the exhaust pulses

pulls the air from the air cleaner, through a

hose

to

the vacuum switch valve, through a

pair

of

hoses

and

two

pairs

of

reed valves,

and finally Into the exhaust ports. The

introduction

01

fresh air helps ignite any fuel

that

may

not

have

been

burned by tile normal

combustion

process.

2 Remove

the fuel

lank

(see Chapter

4).

3 Remove

the

ignition coils (see

Chapter

5).

4

Disconnect

the

hoses

from

the

alf

suction

valves (see

illustration). Remove

the

bolts

and

lift off

the

covers.

5 Check the vatve

lor

cracks, warping,

burning

or

other

damage

(s

••

Illustration).

Check

the area

where

the

reeds

contact

the

valve holder for scratches, separation and

grooves.

If

any

of

these

conditions are found,

replace

the valve.

6 Wash the yalyes with

sotYElflt

if carbon has

accumulated

between the reed and the Yalye
holder.
7 Installation

of

the

Yalyes

Is

the

reverse

of

removal. Be sure

to

use a new gasket.

5

Idle

speed -

check

and adjustment

1 The Idle speed

should

be

checked

and

adjusted

after

the

carburettors

are

synchronised

and

when

It Is obYlously

too

high

or

too

low. Before

adjusting

the

Idle

speed,

make

sure

the

valye clearances

and

spark

plug

gaps

are

correct. Also,

turn

the

handlebars back-aod-forth and see If the idle

speed

changes as this

Is

done. tf It does. t

he

throWe cable may not

be

adjusted correctly,

Of

it may

be

worn out. Be sure to correct this

problem before proceeding.
2 The engine shOlJId

be

at

normal operating
temperature, which Is usually reached aft6( 10
to

15 minutes

of

Slop

and

go riding. Place

the

motorcycle on the centElfStand and make

SlJre

the transmiSSion

IS

in

Neutral.

3 Tum the throttle

stop

screw, located on the

left

side

of

the

bike, Just

forward

of

the

Every 3000 miles (5000 km)

,.g

4.5

Check

the

reeds

(arrows)

on

the

aIr

suction

yalye

for

damage

and

carbon

build-up

carbu

rettor

for

cylinder

no. , (see

Illustration)

, until the idle speed listed

In

this

Chapter's Specifications

Is

obtained.

4

Snap

the

throttle

open

and

shut a

few

times, then recheck

the

Idle speed. If

necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.

5 If a smooth, steady idle

can't

be achieved,

the fueVair mixture may

be

Incorrect. Refer

to

Chapter

4

for

additional

carbure

ttor

information.

6 Carburettor synchronisation

- check and adjustment

Warning: Gasoline (petrol)

is

extremely

flammable,

so

take

extra

precautions

when

you

worlr

on

sny

part

of

the

fuel

system.

Don't

smoke

or

IIllow

open

flames

or

barB

light

bulbs

near

the

worlr arell,

and

don't

worlr

in a

garagll

where

II

nstun"

glls-type

applillnce

(suell as a

water

heater

or

clothes

dryer) Is

present. If

you

spill

IIny

fuel

on

your

skin,

rinse

It

off

immediately

with

soap

and

water. When

you

perform

sny

kind

of

worlr

on

the

fuel

system,

wear

safety

glasses

and

have.

class B type fire

extinguisher

on

hand.

1

Carburettor

synchronization

Is

simply

the

process

of

adjusting the carburettors so they

pass

the

same amOtJnt

of

fueVair mixture

to

each cylinder. This is done

by

measuring the

vacuum

produced

in

each

cylinder.

Carburettors

that are

out

of

synchronlzatJon

will result

in

decreased

fuel mileage,
increased engine temperature, less than Ideal
throttle response and higher 'I1bration levels.
2 To

property

synchronise

the

carburettors,

you

will

need

some

sort

01

vacuum

gauge

se

tup. preferabty

with

a gauge

for

each

cylinder.

or

a mercury manometer, which

is

8

calibrated

tube

arrangement

that utilizes

columns

of

mercury

to

indicate

engine
vacuum.
3 A

manometer

can

be

purchased

from a
motorcycle

dealer

or

accessory

shop

and

should

have

the

necessary

rubber

hoses

supplied

with

it for hooking into

the

vacuum

hose fittings on the carburettors.

5.3

Tum

the

Idle

speed

adjusting

screw

(arrow) In

or

out

until

the

specifted

idle

is

obtained

4 A vacuum

gauge

setup

can also be

purchased

from

a dealer

or

fabricated from
commonly available hardware and automotive
vacuum gauges.

5 The

manometer

is

the

more

reliable

and

accurate

Instrument, and

for

that reason is

preferred

oyer

the

vacuum gauge setup:

however, since

the

mercury

used in

the

manometer

is

a liquid,

and

extremely toxic,

extra precautions must

be

taken during use

and storage

of

the Instrument.

6

Because

of

the

nature

of

the

synchronizallon procedure and

the

need for

special Instruments,

most

owners

leave

the

task

to

a dealer service

department

or

a

reputable motorcycle repair

shop.

7 Start the engine

and

let it run until it reaches
normal operating temperature. IIleo shut it off.
8

Remove the fuel tank (see Chapt6(

4).

9 Detach

the

vacuum hoses,

or

blanking

caps,

from

the

fittings

on

the

carburettors

(see

illustration)

, then hook

up

the vacuum

gauge set

or

the manometer according to the
manufactur6('s instructions. Make sure there
are no leaks

In

the setup,

as

false readings will
result.
10 Reconnect

the

fuel line to the fuel tank

Ofs not necessary to

hOOK-UP

the vacuum line
to the fuel tap. Have an assistant hold the fuel
tank out

of

the way, but

in

such a position that

fuel can stili

be

deliyered and access

to

the

carburettors

Is

unobstructed. Place

the

fuel

tap

leyer

in

the Prime position on 600 models.

On 750

models,

the tap

knob

must

be

6.9

Detach

the

vacuum

hoses

from

the

fittings

on

the

front

of

the

carburetors

1

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