JUKI HZL-L series Instruction Manual

Attention

Please read this instruction manual before using
the machine as it contains important operational
and safety information.
Keep this manual accessible so that you may
refer to it at anytime while operating the machine.

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

COMPUTER SEWING MACHINE

HZL-L series

EN

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the
following:

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER

—

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug
this sewingmachine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before
cleaning.

WARNING

—

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used
by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner’s manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner’s manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if
it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this
sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle and/or cutting blade.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and
the like.

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner’s manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant
National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your
retailer for guidance. (European Union only)

For Europe only:

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.

For outside Europe (except U.S.A and Canada):

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or
mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

NAMES OF PARTS

Names of Parts ............................................................... 2

Standard Accessories .................................................... 3

GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting the Power Supply ........................................ 4

Before Using Your Sewing Machine ............................... 4

Operating Instructions: ................................................... 4

Controlling Sewing Speed .............................................. 5

Extension Table .............................................................. 5

Machine Operating Buttons ......................................... 6-7

Presser Foot Lifter .......................................................... 8

Changing the Presser Foot ............................................ 8

Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder ...................... 8

Dropping or Raising the Feed Dog ................................. 9

Changing the Needle...................................................... 9

Fabric and Needle Chart ................................................ 9

Setting the Spool of Thread ......................................... 10

Bobbin Winding ....................................................... 10-12

Threading the Machine................................................. 13

Needle Threader .......................................................... 14

Drawing up the Bobbin Thread..................................... 15

LCD Display .................................................................. 16

Stitch chart ................................................................... 16

Adjusting the Needle Thread Tension ...................... 17-18

BASIC SEWING

Straight Stitch Sewing .................................................. 19

Changing Sewing Direction .......................................... 19

Turning Square Corners ............................................... 19

Sewing from the Edge of Thick Fabric ......................... 20

Needle Plate ................................................................. 20

Altering the Needle Drop Position ................................ 21

Altering the Stitch Length ............................................. 21

Lock-a-matic Stitch ....................................................... 22

Locking Stitch ............................................................... 22

Triple Stretch Stitch ...................................................... 22

Stretch Stitch ................................................................ 23

Saddle Stitch (100-stitch model only) ........................... 23

Zigzag Stitch ................................................................. 24

Overcasting with Zigzag Stitch ..................................... 25

Multiple Zigzag Stitch ................................................... 25

Knit Stitch (100-stitch model only) ................................ 25

Overedge Stitch ............................................................ 26

Buttonholes .................................................................. 26

Standard buttonhole ................................................ 27-29

Round-end Buttonhole ................................................. 30

Keyhole Buttonhole ...................................................... 30

Corded Buttonhole ....................................................... 31

Darning Stitch (100-stitch model only) ......................... 32

Tacking (100-stitch model only) .................................... 33

Eyelet (100-stitch model only) ...................................... 34

Zipper Sewing .........................................................35-37

Blind Hemming ............................................................. 38

Button Sewing .............................................................. 39

Gathering ...................................................................... 39

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Patchwork ..................................................................... 40

Shelltuck ....................................................................... 40

Applique ....................................................................... 41

Fringing ......................................................................... 42

Drawn Work .................................................................. 42

Cross Stitch (100-stitch model only) ............................ 43

Fagoting ........................................................................ 43

French Knots (100-stitch model only)........................... 43

Scallop Stitch................................................................ 44

Smocking ...................................................................... 44

Clasp Stitches (100-stitch model only) ......................... 45

Satin Stitches ............................................................... 45

Decorative Stitches (100-stitch model only) ................. 46

Correcting Deformed Stitch Patterns ........................... 46

CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dog ...................... 47

Installing the Bobbin Holder ......................................... 47

Problems and Warning Signals .................................... 48

Troubleshooting ............................................................ 49

Stitch Chart.............................................................. 5 0 - 51

Introduction of optional accessory parts ...................... 52

2

①
②
③
④
⑤
⑥
⑦
⑧
⑨
⑩
⑪
⑫
⑬
⑭
⑮
⑯
⑰
⑱
⑲
⑳
㉑
㉒
㉓
㉔
㉕
㉖
㉗
㉘
㉙
㉚
㉛
㉜
㉝
㉞
㉟
㊱
㊲
㊳
㊴
㊵
㊶
㊷

Extension table (Accessory box)

Needle plate

Needle threader

Thread cutter

Face cover

Thread take-up lever

Thread tension dial

Spool pin

Large spool holder

Bobbin winder spindle

Bobbin winder stopper

Hole for additional spool pin

Value set buttons

Cursor buttons

LCD display

Speed control slider

Stitch chart drawer

Needle up/down button

Auto-lock button

Reverse button

Start/stop button

Hook cover plate

Presser foot (Zigzag foot A)

Feed dog

Foot holder

Setscrew

Lever

Needle clamp screw

Needle

Hook cover release button

Power inlet

Foot control jack

Power switch

Handwheel

Carrying handle

Bobbin winding tension disc

Upper thread guide

Presser foot lifter

Buttonhole lever

Free-arm

Drop feed lever

Feed balancing dial

NOTE:

Design and specifications are subject to change
without prior notice.

NOTE:

To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying handle
with your hand, and support the sewing machine with
the other hand.

NAMES OF PARTS

Names of Parts

①

②

③

④

⑤

⑥

⑦

⑧ ⑨

⑩

⑪

⑫

⑬

⑭

⑯

⑱

⑲

⑳

⑮

㉑

㉒

㉓

㉔

㉕

㉖

㉗

㉝

㉞

㉟

㊳

㊴

㊵

㊲

㊷

⑰

㉘

㉙

㉚

㊱

㉛

㉜

㊶

3

①
②
③
④
⑤
⑥
⑦
⑧
⑨
⑩
⑪
⑫
⑬
⑭
⑮
⑯
⑰
⑱
⑲
⑳
㉑

Standard Accessories

Zigzag foot A (set on the machine)

Overedge foot C

Zipper foot E

Satin stitch foot F

Blind hem foot G

Automatic buttonhole foot R

Spool holder (large) (1 set on the machine)

Spool holder (small)

Additional spool pin

Spool stand

Spool pin felt

Bobbins ( X 4) (1 set on the machine)

Assorted needle set

Seam ripper (Buttonhole opener)

Lint brush

Screwdriver

Instruction book

Instructional video DVD

Hard cover

Foot control

Power cable*

* The power cable included may differ from the illustration.

①

②

③ ④ ⑤

⑥ ⑦ ⑧

⑨ ⑩ ⑪

⑫

⑬

⑭ ⑮

⑯

⑰

⑱

⑲

⑳

㉑

4

①

③

②

④

⑦

⑤

①

②

⑤

③

④

⑧

⑥

Using the start/stop button

Turn off the power switch.
Insert the machine plug into the power inlet.
Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet.
Turn on the power switch.

① Power switch
② Machine plug
③ Power inlet
④ Power supply plug
⑤ Wall outlet
⑥ Start/Stop button

NOTE:

The start/stop button does not work when the foot
control is connected.

GETTING READY TO SEW

WARNING:

While in operation, always keep your eyes on the
sewing area and do not touch any moving parts such
as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the
power supply:

- when leaving the machine unattended.

- when attaching or removing parts.

- when cleaning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control.

Operating Instructions:

The symbol “O” on the switch indicates the “off” position
of the switch.
Foot control model 21371 or YC-485EC-1 is used with
this sewing machine.

For the U.S.A and Canada only:

For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other): To reduce the risk of electric shock, this
plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to
install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Connecting the Power Supply

Using the foot control

Turn off the power switch.
Insert the pin connector into the jack.
Insert the machine plug into the power inlet.
Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet.
Turn on the power switch.
① Power switch
② Pin connector
③ Jack
④ Machine plug
⑤ Power inlet
⑥ Power supply plug
⑦ Wall outlet

The foot control sign will be displayed when the foot
control is connected to the machine.
⑧ Foot control sign

Before Using Your Sewing Machine

Before using your sewing machine for the first time,
place a scrap of fabric under the presser foot and run the
machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away
any oil which may appear.

⑥

5

②

④

③

①

③

④

⑤

⑥

Controlling Sewing Speed

Speed control slider

Sewing speed can be varied by the speed control slider
according to your sewing needs.
To increase sewing speed, move the slider to the right.
To decrease sewing speed, move the slider to the left.

Extension Table

The extension table provides an extended sewing area
and can be easily removed for free-arm sewing.

Detaching the table

Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated.
① Extension table

Attaching the table

Slide the extension table along the free-arm and insert
the guides into the holes until the table snaps into the
machine.
② Fre e-ar m
③ Guide
④ Hole

Accessory storage

Accessories are stored inside the extension table.
⑤ Accessory storage

Free-arm Sewing

Free-arm is useful for sewing tubular garments and for
darning knee or elbow areas.
⑥ Fre e-ar m

Foot control

Depress the foot control to start the machine.
The further down you press on the foot control, the faster
the machine runs.
The maximum sewing speed can be varied by the speed
control slider.

6

②

③ ④

⑤

⑥

②

③

Machine Operating Buttons

①

①

① Start / Stop button

Press this button to start or stop the machine.
The machine starts running slowly for the first few
stitches, and it then runs at the speed set by the speed
control slider.
The machine runs slowly as long as this button is being
pressed.

NOTE:

The start/stop button cannot be used when the foot
control is connected to the machine.

② Reverse button

• When stitch pattern 00 , 01 , 12 , 13 , 14 or
20 is selected (100-stitch model);

• When stitch pattern 00 , 01 , 07 or 08 is
selected (20-stitch model);

The machine will sew in reverse as long as the
reverse button is pressed. Release the button to sew
forward.
When the machine is stopped and foot control is
disconnected, the machine will sew in reverse slowly
as long as the reverse button is pressed. Release the
button to stop the machine.

• When any other stitches are selected;

If you press the reverse button when sewing any other
patterns, the machine will immediately sew locking
stitches and automatically stop.

NOTE:
100-stitch model;

There will be particular functions of the reverse button
when pattern 02 , 03 , 09 or 10 is selected.
Refer to page 22, 32 and 33 for instructions.

20-stitch model;

There will be particular functions of the reverse button
when pattern 02 or 03 is selected.
Refer to page 22 for instructions.

③ Auto-lock button

• When stitch pattern 00 , 01 , 12 , 13 , 14 or
20 is selected (100-stitch model);

• When stitch pattern 00 , 01 , 07 or 08 is
selected (20-stitch model);

Press the auto-lock button to sew a locking stitch

immediately. The machine will automatically stop.

• When any other stitches are selected;

Press the auto-lock button to sew a locking stitch
at the end of current pattern. The machine will
automatically stop.

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

7

④

⑤ ⑤

Cursor buttons

Use these buttons to move the cursor ⑦.
Press button to move the cursor to right.
Press button to move the cursor to left.

⑥

Value set buttons

Use these buttons to change the set value.
Move the cursor under the digit you would like to change.
Press button to increase the value.
Press button to decrease the value.

⑦

⑥

④ Needle up/down button

Press the needle up/down button to bring the needle
up or down. The machine will stop with the needle up or
down depending on the needle position determined by
this button.

8

①

②

③

②

③

①

②

④

③

①

②

③

④

Presser Foot Lifter

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot.
You can raise the foot about 1/4˝ (0.7 cm) higher than the
normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot,
or to help you place thick material under the foot.
① Presser foot lifter
② Normal up position
③ Highest position

Changing the Presser Foot

C AUTI ON :
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the foot.
Always use the proper foot for the selected pattern.
The wrong foot can cause the needle to break. Each
foot is marked with an identification letter.
① Identification letter

Removing the presser foot

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel counterclockwise. Raise the presser foot, and
press the lever on the back of the foot holder.

②

Lever

Attaching the presser foot

Place the selected presser foot so that the pin on the foot
lies just under the groove in the foot holder.
Lower the presser bar to lock the foot into the place.

③

Groove

④

Pin

Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder

CAUTION:

Turn OFF the power switch before removing or
attaching foot holder.

Removing the foot holder

Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise with
a s crewdriver.

Attaching the foot holder

Align the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in
the presser bar.
Fit the setscrew into the hole.
Tighten the setscrew by turning it clockwise with the
sc rewdriver.
① Setscrew
② Foot holder
③ Hole
④ Threaded hole

①

9

①

②

①

②

①

Dropping or Raising the Feed Dog

The drop feed lever is located underneath the free arm
bed on the back of the machine.

To drop the feed dog, push the lever in the direction of
the arrow ①.

To raise the feed dog, push the lever in the direction
of the arrow ②, as illustrated, and turn the handwheel
toward you.

The feed dog must be up for normal sewing.

NOTE:

Set the stitch length value at the minimum when
lowering the feed dog.

Changing the Needle

CAUTION:

Turn OFF the power switch before changing the
needle.
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel counterclockwise, and lower the presser
foot.

Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise. Remove the needle from the needle
clamp.
Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the flat
side to the rear. When inserting the needle into the
needle clamp, push it up as far as it will go.
Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly by turning it
clockwise.

① Needle clamp screw
② Flat side

To see if the needle is in good condition, place the flat
side of the needle onto something flat (needle plate,
glass etc.). The gap between the needle and the flat
surface should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt
needle.
A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs
in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Fabric Thread Needle

Fine

Lawn
Georgette
Tric o t
Organza
Crepe

Sil k # 80 -100
Cotton #80-100
Synthetic #80-100

# 9 / 65 -11 / 7 5

Medium

Sheeting
Jersey
Broadcloth
Fleece

Silk #50
Cotton #50-80
Synthetic #50-80

#11/ 75 -14 / 9 0

Heavy
weight

Denim
Twee d
Coating
Quilting

Silk #30-50
Cotton #40-50
Synthetic #40-50

#14/90-16/100

Fabric and Needle Chart

• For general sewing, use needle size 11/75 or 14/90.

• A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing
lightweight fabrics, so the fabric will not be marred.

• Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce
the fabric without fraying the needle thread.

• Always test the needle size on a small scrap of the
fabric that will be used for actual sewing.

• In general, use the same thread for the needle and
bobbin.

NOTE:

3 x #14/90 needles are included in the envelop
(Part No. 639804000).

NOTE:

When sewing stretch fabrics, very fine fabrics and
synthetics, use a blue tip needle (Part No. 990311000,
sold separately). The blue tip needle effectively
prevents skipped stitches.

②

10

Additional spool pin

The additional spool pin is for winding bobbins, without
unthreading the machine.
Set the spool stand under the additional spool pin.
Insert the additional spool pin into the hole.
Place the felt and a spool on the pin.
① Spool stand
② Additional spool pin
③ Hole for additional spool pin
④ Spool pin felt

The extra spool pin should point to the bobbin winding
tension disk.
Draw the thread from the spool and pass the thread
around the bobbin winding tension disk as shown.
⑤ Bobbin winding tension disk

Setting the Spool of Thread

Horizontal spool pin

Lift up the spool pin. Place a spool of thread on the spool
pin.
Attach the large spool holder, and press it firmly against
the spool of thread so that the spool rests on the
supporter.
① Spool pin
② Spool of thread
③ Large spool holder

The small spool holder is used with narrow or small
spools of thread.
④ Small spool holder

Bobbin Winding

Removing the bobbin

Gently slide the hook cover release button to the right
and remove the hook cover plate.
Lift out the bobbin.
① Hook cover release button
② Hook cover plate
③ Bobbin

NOTE:

Use the designated plastic bobbins for horizontal
hook. Using other bobbins, such as pre-wound paper
bobbins, may cause stitching problems and/ or
damage to the bobbin holder.

②

①

①

③

④

①

②

④

③

⑤

②

③

11

2 3

6 7

4

②

①

5

Winding the bobbin

NOTE:

Set the speed control slider at its fastest position for
bobbin winding.

1

Draw the thread from the spool and pass the thread

around the bobbin winding tension disk.

① Bobbin winding tension disk

2

Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside

to the outside.

3

Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.

4

Push the bobbin to the right.
The bobbin icon appears on the LCD display.
② Bobbin icon

5

With the free end of the thread held in your hand, start

the machine. Stop the machine when it has wound a
few layers, and then cut the thread close to the hole in
the bobbin.

6

Start the machine. When the bobbin is fully wound, it

will stop spinning automatically.

Stop the machine and return the bobbin winder to its

original position by moving the spindle to the left.

7

Remove the bobbin. Cut the thread as shown.
Return the speed control slider position.

1

12

1

2

3

4

5

①

②

③

5

Attach the hook cover plate. Check the threading by

referring to the diagram ④ shown on the hook cover
plate.

④ Threading diagram

3

Draw the thread to the left, sliding it between the

tension spring blades.

Inserting the bobbin

CAUTION:

Turn OFF the power switch before inserting the bobbin
and threading the bobbin holder.

1

Place a bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread

running off counterclockwise.

① End of thread

2

Guide the thread into the first notch ② on the front

side of the bobbin holder.

② Notch

4

Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread

slips into the second notch ③. Pull out about 6˝ (15
cm) of thread.

③ Notch

④

13

1

2

3

4 5

②

1

3

4

5

2

②

①

③

CAUTION:

Turn OFF the power switch before threading the
machine.

1

Turn the power switch off.
Draw the end of the thread around the upper thread

guide.

Threading the Machine

2

While holding the thread near the spool ②, draw

the end of the thread down around the check spring

holder ③.
② Spool
③ Check spring holder

3

Firmly draw the thread up from right to left over the

take-up lever, and down into the take-up lever eye.

4

Pass the thread through the lower thread guide. Slide

the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the

left.

5

Use the needle threader to thread the needle (see

pa g e 14) .

Raise the presser foot. Press the
needle up/down button ① to raise
the thread take-up lever to its
highest position.
① Needle up/down button

14

5

Pull the thread through the needle eye.

NOTE:

The needle threader can be used with a #11 to #16
needle or a blue tip needle. Thread sizes 50 to 90 are
recommended.

③

①

②

④

⑤

②

④

Needle Threader

CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch when using the needle
thread er.

1

Lower the presser foot. Raise the needle to its highest

position.

Pull down the needle threader knob as far as it will

go. The hook comes out through the needle eye from
behind.

① Knob
② Hook

2

Draw the thread from the left guide to the right guide

and under the hook.

② Hook
③ Left guide
④ Right guide

3

Draw the thread to the front along the right side of the

right guide.

④ Right guide

4

Raise the knob in the direction of the arrow, drawing

the thread loop through the needle.

⑤ Thread loop

1

2 3

4

5

2 3

15

①

1

2

3

Drawing up the Bobbin Thread

1

Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly

with your left hand.

2

Turn the power switch on.

Press the needle up/down button twice to lower and

raise the needle to pick up the bobbin thread.
① Needle up/down button

3

Pull both threads 4˝ to 6˝ (10 to 15 cm) under and

behind the presser foot.

16

2

Press the value buttons to change the
stitch pattern number until the pattern number of the
desired stitch is indicated.
The number will increase or decrease by 1 each time
you press the value set button.

3

Press button to move the cursor under the tens
digit of the stitch pattern number.
The number will increase or decrease by 10 each time
you press the value set button.

LCD Display

The LCD display shows the following information when
the machine is turned on.

①

Identification letter for recommended foot

②

Stitch pattern number

③

Cursors

④

Stitch width

⑤

Stitch length

Stitch Chart

Draw the stitch chart drawer to the right. The stitch chart
indicates all the available stitch patterns.

①

Stitch chart drawer

①

②

③

④ ⑤

1

2

3

1

Press the cursor buttons to move the
cursor under the stitch pattern number.
The cursors appear under both digits when turning
the power on.

①

17

①

②

③

④

④

①

②

⑤

③

④

①

②

⑤

③

Adjusting the Needle Thread Tension

Straight stitch balanced tension

The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two
layers of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail).
If you look at the top and bottom of the seam, notice that
the stitches are evenly balanced.
① Needle thread (top thread)
② Bobbin thread (bottom thread)
③ To l o ose n
④ To t i ghte n

When adjusting the needle thread tension, the higher the
number, the tighter the top thread tension.
Results depend on:

- stiffness and thickness of the fabric

- number of fabric layers

- type of stitch

Tension is too loose

The needle thread shows through on the wrong side of
the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a
higher number to tighten the needle thread tension.
① Needle thread (top thread)
② Bobbin thread (bottom thread)
③ To tighten tension
④ Right side (top side) of fabric
⑤ Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric

Tension is too tight

The bobbin thread shows through on the right side of the
fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a lower
number to loosen the needle thread tension.
① Needle thread (top thread)
② Bobbin thread (bottom thread)
③ To loosen tension
④ Right side (top side) of fabric
⑤ Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric

18

① ②

① ②

① ②

Zigzag stitch

For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not
show on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and the
needle thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom
side) of the fabric.
See the illustrations for the correct appearance.
To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension as
necessary.

Balanced tension

Minimize the amount of needle thread visible on the
wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric without causing
excessive puckering, or causing the bobbin thread to
show on the right side (top side) of the fabric.
Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions.
① Right side (top side) of fabric
② Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric

Tension is too tight

The corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side
of the fabric
① Right side (top side) of fabric
② Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric

Tension is too loose

The corner of each zigzag point pulls together on the
wrong side of the fabric.
① Right side (top side) of fabric
② Wrong side (bottom side) of fabric

19

①

③②

Straight Stitch Sewing

①

Stitch pattern: 00 or 01

② Thread tension dial:

2 to 6

③

Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

BASIC SEWING

②

①

③

②

Changing Sewing Direction

Stop the machine.
Lower the needle by pressing needle up/down button ①.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change the sewing
direction as desired.
Lower the foot and start sewing in a new direction.
① Needle up/down button

①

①

Turning Square Corners

When sewing with fabric edge at 5/8˝ seam guide, to
turn a square corner so that sewing continues at same
distance from edge.
Stop the machine when front edge of fabric reaches the
cornering guide lines ②.
Lower the needle by pressing needle up/down button ①.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric
counterclockwise 90°.
Lower the presser foot, and begin stitching in the new
direction.
① Needle up/down button
② Cornering guide

NOTE:

When sewing with the satin stitch foot F or buttonhole
foot R, pull the threads to the left to hold them.

Starting to sew

Raise presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam
guide line on the needle plate. Lower the needle to the
point where you want to start.
Pull the threads toward the rear and lower the presser
foot.
Press the start/stop button or depress the foot control to
start sewing.
Gently guide the fabric along a seam guide line letting
the fabric feed naturally.
① Start/stop button

To secure the end of seam, press the reverse button and
sew several reverse stitches.
② Reverse button

Use the thread cutter on the face cover to cut the threads.
③ Thread cutter

20

①

②

① ③

Sewing from the Edge of Thick Fabric

The black button ① on the zigzag foot locks the foot in
the horizontal position.
This is helpful when starting sewing from the far edge of
thick fabrics ② or sewing across a hem.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the point where you
wish to start sewing.
Lower the foot while pushing the black button ① in. The
foot is locked in the horizontal position to avoid slipping.
The button is released automatically after sewing a few
stitches.
① Black button
② Thick fabrics

Numbers 10 15 30 40 3/8 1/2 5/8 1

1 1/2

Distance (cm)

1.0

1.5 3.0 4.0 — — — — —

Distance

(inch)

—

— — — 3/8 1/2 5/8 1

1 1/2

Needle Plate

The seam guides on the needle plate and the hook cover
help you to measure seam allowance. The numbers on
the needle plate indicate the distance between the center
needle position ① and the edge of the fabric ②.
① Center needle position
② Edge of the fabric

The front seam guides ③ are marked at 1/4˝, 3/8˝ and
5/8˝ from the center needle position ①.
③ Front seam guides

②

①

21

[1.0] [2.2] [5.0]

③ ④ ⑤

Altering the Stitch Length

Press the cursor buttons

to move the cursor ①
under the stitch length value “2.2” ② (default setting).
Press the button to decrease stitch length.

Press the button to increase stitch length.

The stitch length can be varied from 0.0 to 5.0.

①

Cursor

②

Stitch length (2.2)

NOTE:
Reverse stitch length cannot be set longer than 4.0.

②

②

①

①

Altering the Needle Drop Position

The needle drop position can be adjusted for straight
stitch patterns,

100-stitch model:

20-stitch model:

Press the cursor buttons

to move the cursor ①
under the stitch width value “3.5” ② (default setting).
Press the button to move the needle to the left ③.

Press the button to move the needle to the right ⑤.

①

Cursor

②

Stitch width (3.5)

③

Left (0.0)

④

Middle (3.5)

⑤

Right (7.0)

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

22

①

①

①

③

③

③

②

②

②

①

①

Lock-a-matic Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 02
② Thread tension dial: 2 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

Use this stitch to secure the beginning and the end of a
seam with backstitching.
When you reach the end of the seam, press the reverse
button once. The machine will sew four reverse stitches,
four forward stitches, and then stop sewing automatically.
① Reverse button

Locking Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 03
② Thread tension dial: 2 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

This unique stitch is used where an invisible locking
stitch is needed.

Lower the needle close to the front edge of the fabric.
The machine will sew several locking stitches in place
and continue sewing forward.
When you press the reverse button at the end of the
seam, the machine will sew several locking stitches in
place, then stop sewing automatically.

①

Reverse button

Triple Stretch Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 21 (

100-stitch model

)

04 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 2 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

This strong, durable stitch is recommended when
both elasticity and strength are necessary in order
to insure comfort and durability. Use it to reinforce
areas such as crotch and armhole seams. Also use for
extra reinforcement when constructing items such as
backpacks.

23

①

①

③

③

②

②

Stretch Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 04 or 05 (

100-stitch model

)

05 or 06 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

This stitch is a narrow stretch stitch designed to
eliminate puckering on knit fabrics and bias seams, while
permitting the seam to be pressed completely open flat.
Use this stitch for seaming fine fabrics.

Saddle Stitch (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 22
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

You can achieve a lovely hand-worked look when top
stitching suits, blazers, jumpers, and denim outfits with
the saddle stitch.

24

④⑥

④

Zigzag Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 12 or 13 (

100-stitch model

)

07 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 7
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

Adjusting the stitch width

Press the cursor buttons

to move the cursor

①

under the stitch width value “5.0” ② (default setting).
Press the button to increase stitch width ③.
Press the button to decrease stitch width ④.
The stitch width can be varied from 0.0 to 7.0.

The stitch width of pattern or can be changed
without changing its center needle position ⑤.
The stitch width of pattern can be changed without
changing its right needle position ⑥.

③⑤

Adjusting the stitch length

Press the cursor buttons

to move the cursor

①

under the stitch length value “1.5” ② (default setting).
Press the button to increase stitch length ③.
Press the button to decrease stitch length ④.
The stitch length can be varied from 0.2 to 5.0.

①

③

①

③②

②

②

①

The zigzag stitch is one of the most useful and versatile
stitches.
It is used for overcasting, mending, appliqué, and also
used as a decorative stitch.

NOTE:

Use interfacing when sewing on stretch fabrics such
as knit, jersey or tricot.

25

This zigzag variation is very useful in garment
construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing
project.

The black ridge and the guide wires on the overedge
foot keep the edge neat and the fabric straight.
Place your fabric so that the double guide wires come
to the edge. The machine will stitch over these wires.
The black ridge will keep loose threads in so that
the needle can stitch over them.
As you sew, be sure your fabric edge pushes up against
the black ridge.

①

①

③

③

②

②

Overcasting with Zigzag Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 12 (

100-stitch model

)

07 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 7
③ Presser foot: Overedge foot C

Multiple Zigzag Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 14 (

100-stitch model

)

08 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 7
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

This stitch is used to finish a raw edge of synthetics and
other stretch fabrics that tend to pucker.
Sew along the fabric edge leaving an adequate seam
allowance.
After sewing, trim off the seam allowance closer to the
stitches.

This stitch is also excellent for darning and mending
tears.

Place your fabric to allow a 5/8˝ (1.5 cm) seam. Trim
excess close to the stitching. Be careful not to cut the
stitches.

Knit Stitch (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 16
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

①

③②

CAUTION:
When using an overedge foot, make sure to set the
stitch width at 4.5 or wider, otherwise the needle may
hit the wires on the foot.

26

①

②

③

This stitch pattern combines the straight and the zigzag
stitches, using the overedge foot, to seam and overcast
in one step.
It is ideal for 0.6 cm (1/4˝) seams on knits (when attaching
ribbing) or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics
where you want a narrow seam.
Place your fabric so that the raw edges fit under the wire
guides and touch the black ridge.

①

③②

Overedge Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 17 (

100-stitch model

)

13 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 7
③ Presser foot: Overedge foot C

Buttonholes

The following 3 types of buttonholes are available.

① Standard buttonhole

This buttonhole is widely used on medium to heavy
fabrics.

② Rounded end buttonhole

This buttonhole is used on fine to medium weight fabrics,
especially for blouses and children’s clothes.

③ Keyhole buttonhole

The keyhole buttonhole is widely used on medium to
heavy fabrics. It is also suitable for larger and thicker
buttons.

CAUTION:
When using an overedge foot, make sure to set the

stitch width at 4.5 or wider, otherwise the needle may
hit the wires on the foot.

27

①

③②

Standard buttonhole

① Stitch pattern: 06 (

100-stitch model

)

10 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R

1

③

④

⑤

The size of a buttonhole is automatically set by placing a
button in the rear of automatic buttonhole foot R.
The button holder of the foot takes a button size of 3/8˝ (1
cm) to 1˝ (2.5 cm) in diameter.
When selecting the buttonholes, the LCD screen advise
you to lower the buttonhole lever.

NOTE:

It is sometimes necessary to change buttonhole size
to match certain heavy or specific fabrics and threads.
Make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of the fabric
to check your settings.
The preset width of the buttonhole is suited for
ordinary buttons.
Apply an interfacing to stretch or fine fabrics.

Sewing

1

Pull the button holder to the back, and place the

button in it. Push it together tightly on the button.

① Button holder

NOTE:

If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole
on an extra piece of the fabric.
If it is difficult to fit the button through the test
buttonhole, you can lengthen the buttonhole by pulling
the button holder back a little. The length of the
buttonhole will be increased.

② Extra gap

2

Press the needle up/down button to raise the needle.

Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R snapping the

pin into the groove of the foot holder.

You may lift the presser foot lifter to the extra lifted

position when placing the automatic buttonhole foot

under the foot holder.
Raise the presser foot.
③ Groove
④ Pin

①

R

②

3

Draw the needle thread to the left through the hole of

foot. Mark the buttonhole position on the fabric and

place it under the buttonhole foot. Lower the needle at

the starting point by turning the handwheel.
⑤ Starting point

2

3

28

4

⑫⑫⑫

⑧⑧⑧

⑥

4

Lower the presser foot and pull the buttonhole lever

down as far as it will go.

⑥ Buttonhole lever

NOTE:

The reference lines on the buttonhole foot can be
used as a positioning guide.
Make sure there is no gap between the slider and
front stopper, otherwise the buttonhole will be out of
position or there will be a sewing gap.

⑦ No gap
⑧ Starting point
⑨ Reference lines
⑩ Slider
⑪ Stopper
⑫ Sewing gap

⑦

5

Start sewing while pulling the needle thread lightly to

the left. After sewing a few stitches, free the thread
and continue sewing.

NOTE:

If you start sewing without pulling down the buttonhole

lever, the LCD screen will show a warning and

the machine will stop after a few stitches. Pull the

buttonhole lever down and start sewing.

5

⑧

⑨

⑩

⑪

29

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Density for
Buttonholes

Adjusting the stitch width

Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the stitch width value “5.0” ① (default setting).
Press the button to increase buttonhole width ②.
Press the button to decrease buttonhole width ③.
The stitch width can be varied from 2.5 to 7.0 depending
on the selected buttonhole.

Adjusting the stitch density

Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the stitch density value “0.4” ① (default setting).
Press the button to make the buttonhole stitch less
dense ②.
Press the button to make the buttonhole stitch
denser ③.
The stitch density can be varied from 0.3 to 0.8 depending
on the selected buttonhole.

③

②

③②

6

The buttonhole is sewn in the sequence as shown.

When the buttonhole is finished, the machine will stop

automatically with the needle in the up position.

Double layer buttonhole

To make a sturdy buttonhole, sew another layer of
buttonhole stitches over the previous stitches.
After the buttonhole is finished, do not raise the foot or
buttonhole lever, simply start the machine again.

6

7

8

⑬

⑭

7

Remove the fabric and place a pin just below the

bartack to prevent accidentally cutting the stitches.
Cut the opening with the seam ripper.
⑬ Pin
⑭ Seam ripper

8

When buttonhole sewing is finished, push the

buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
⑥ Buttonhole lever

⑥

NOTE:

If the fabric is not feeding smoothly when sewing
a double layer buttonhole, increase the buttonhole
density.

①

①

30

①

③②

①

①

③②

Rounded end buttonhole

① Stitch pattern: 07 (

100-stitch model

)

11 ( 20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R

Sewing procedure is the same as standard buttonhole.
The buttonhole width can be varied from 2.5 to 5.5.
The stitch density can be varied from 0.3 to 0.8.

Keyhole Buttonhole

① Stitch pattern: 08 (

100-stitch model

)

12 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R

Sewing procedure is the same as standard buttonhole.

The buttonhole width can be varied from 5.5 to 7.0.
The stitch density can be varied from 0.3 to 0.8.

Use the seam ripper and an eyelet punch to open the
buttonhole.
① Eyelet punch (not provided with the machine)

31

③

④

Corded Buttonhole

① Stitch pattern: 06 (

100-stitch model

)

10 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R

①

③②

1

Use the same procedure as the standard buttonhole

sewing. Set the stitch width to match the thickness of

the cord used.
With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on

the spur at the back of the buttonhole foot. Bring the

ends toward you under the buttonhole foot, clearing

the front end.
Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of the

buttonhole foot to hold them tight.
Lower the needle into the garment where the

buttonhole will start, and lower the foot.
① Spur
② Forks

2

Start the machine and sew the buttonhole.

Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be

sewn over the cord.
Remove the fabric from the machine, and cut the

sewing threads only.
③ Needle thread
④ Bobbin thread

3

Pull the loose ends of the filler cord to tighten it.

Thread the each end of the cord through a hand-

sewing needle. Then draw the both ends to the wrong

side of the fabric and knot.

NOTE:

Cut the filler cord at both ends, if the filler cord is
stitched on the fabric and cannot be pulled.

R

①

②

1

2

3

32

①

③②

①

②

③

④

②

⑤

⑥

⑦

1 2 3 4

Adjusting the evenness of the darning

Correct the evenness of the darning as follows:
Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the value “d5” ⑧ (default setting).
When the right side of the darn is lower than the left side,
press the button to set the value to “d6”–“d9”, and
make the darn even.
When the left side of the darn is lower than the right side,
press the button to set the value to “d1”–“d4”, and
make the darn even.

Darning Stitch (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 09
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R

Sewing a shorter darning

To sew a darning shorter than 3/4˝ (2 cm), first stop the
machine after sewing the required length ⑥, then press
the reverse button ⑤.
The required length ⑥ has been determined.
Start the machine again and continue sewing until the
machine stops automatically.
⑤ Reverse button
⑥ Required length
⑦ Starting point

Sewing a same-sized darning

Simply start the machine to sew another darning at the
same size.

NOTE:

To reset the size of the darning, select the other stitch
pattern and reselect the darning stitch.

Starting to sew

1

Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R and pull the

button holder ① all the way out.

Draw the needle thread to the left through the hole of

foot.

① Button holder

2

Place the fabric under the foot, and lower the needle

at the starting point ②. Then lower the foot.

② Starting point

3

Start the machine. The machine will sew locking

stitch, 16 rows of darning, locking stitch again and
stop automatically.

4

Turn the fabric and repeat sewing in different direction.

③ 3/4˝ (2 cm)
④ 9/32˝ (0.7 cm)

⑧

33

①

③②

Tacking (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 10
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

①

②

④

④

③

Tacking is used to reinforce pockets, crotches and belt
carriers where extra strength is needed.

Start sewing

Start the machine and sew until the machine stops
automatically. The machine will sew a tacking 5/8˝ (1.5
cm) long.

①

5/8˝ (1.5 cm)

Sewing a shorter tack

To sew a tack shorter than 5/8˝ (1.5 cm), first stop the
machine after sewing the required length, then press the
reverse button.
The tack length has been determined.
Start the machine again and continue sewing until the
machine stops automatically.

②

Required length

③

Reverse button

④

Tack length

Sewing a same-size tacking

Simply start the machine to sew another tack at the same
size.

NOTE:

To reset the size of the tacking, select the other stitch
pattern and reselect the tacking.

34

①

③②

The eyelet is used for belt holes etc.

Starting to sew

Lower the needle at the starting point and lower the
presser foot. Start the machine.
The machine will stop automatically when completed.

①

Starting point

Open the eyelet with an awl, eyelet punch or pointed
scissors (an awl, eyelet punch or pointed scissors are not
provided with the machine).

Adjusting the shape of an eyelet

Correct the shape of the eyelet as follows:
Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the value “L3” (default setting) ①.
If the eylet overlaps, press button to make the darn
even. (L4–L5)
If the eylet gap opens, press the button to make
the darn even. (L1–L2)

NOTE:

The shape can be adjusted within L1 to L5 (default
setting is L3).

Eyelet (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 11
② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

①

①

35

③②

①

②

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

Zipper Sewing

① Stitch pattern: 00
② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

Zipper foot E

①

Attaching the zipper foot

Fit the pin on zipper foot E to the groove on the foot
holder.

① Groove
② Pin

(A): To sew the left side of the zipper, attach the zipper
foot with the pin on the right-hand side.
(B): To sew the right side of the zipper, attach the zipper
foot with the pin on the left-hand side.

(A) (B)

Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Attach the zigzag foot and seam up to the end of the
zipper opening, with a 3/4˝ (2 cm) seam allowance.
Reverse the stitch to fasten the seam.
Manually increase the stitch length to 5.0 and baste the
zipper opening with the thread tension loosened to 1-3.

⑤

End of the zipper opening

⑥

3/4˝ (2 cm)

⑦

Basting

⑧

Reverse stitches

⑨

Seam stitches

Fabric preparation

Add 3/8˝ (1 cm) to the zipper length. This is the overall
opening size.

①

Right side of the fabric

②

3/8˝ (1 cm)

③

Opening size

④

Zipper length

⑤

End of the zipper opening

⑤

⑥

⑨

①

②

③

④

⑧

⑦

⑤

36

Start sewing

1

Fold back the left seam allowance. Turn the right seam

allowance under to form a 1/8˝ (0.2-0.3 cm) margin.
Place the zipper teeth next to the fold and pin in place.
Set the stitch length and thread tension back to the
original setting.

① 1/8˝ (0.2-0.3 cm) margin
② Zipper teeth
③ Fold
④ End of the zipper opening
⑤ Opening size

1

2

3

①

④

③

⑤

2

Attach the zipper foot E with the pin on the right hand

side.

Lower the foot onto the topside at the end of the

zipper opening so that the needle pierces the fabric
next to the fold and the zipper tape.

3

Sew through all layers next to the fold.

Stop the machine 2˝ (5 cm) before the foot reaches

the slider on the zipper tape.

Lower the needle slightly into the fabric.
Raise the foot and open the zipper to clear the slider.

Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam.

⑥ Slider
⑦ 2˝ (5 cm)

⑥

⑦

②

CAUTION:

Be sure that the needle does not strike the presser
foot or zipper teeth when the zipper foot is attached.

37

4

Close the zipper and spread the fabric open flat with

the right side facing up.
Attach the Zigzag foot A.
Adjust the stitch length to 5.0, stitch width to 3.5 (default

value) and the thread tension dial to 1.
Baste the opened fabric and zipper tape together.
⑧ Basting stitch
⑨ Zipper tape

⑧

⑨

4

5

6

7

5

Attach the zipper foot E with the left pin.

Adjust the stitch length and the stitch width to default

value, and thread tension dial to “4”.

Backstitch across the end of the opening 3/8˝ (0.7-1

cm) and turn the fabric 90 degrees.

⑩ 3/8˝ (0.7-1 cm)

CAUTION:

Be sure that the needle does not strike the presser
foot or zipper teeth when the zipper foot is attached.

6

Stitch through the garment and zipper tape, guiding

the zipper teeth along the side edge of the foot.
Stop the machine 2˝ (5 cm) before the foot reaches

the slider on the zipper tape. Lower the needle into

the fabric, and raise the foot. Remove the basting

stitches.
⑪ 2˝ (5 cm)
⑫ Basting stitches

⑫

⑪

⑬

7

Open the zipper, then lower the foot and stitch the

remainder of the seam.
After sewing is finished, remove the basting stitches

on the upper fabric.
⑬ Basting stitches on upper fabric

⑩

38

①

③②

①

②

(2)

1

①

②

(1)

2

3

③

④

(1)

(2)

Adjusting the needle drop position

Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the stitch width value “0.6” (default setting).
(1) Press the button to move the needle drop
position to the left.
(2) Press the button to move the needle drop
position to the right.
The LCD display shows the distance between the guide
and left needle drop position in millimeters.
The needle drop position can be varied from 0.0 to 1.2.
① Left needle drop position
② Guide

NOTE:

The needle drop position can be varied, but the stitch
width will remain the same.

①

②

Blind Hemming

① Stitch pattern: 18 (

100-stitch model

)

14 ( 20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Blind Hem foot G

3

Open the fabric after sewing is finished.

NOTE:

If the needle pierces too far left, the stitch will show
through on the right side of the fabric.

1

Fold a hem with the wrong side of the fabric up to

form a 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) allowance.

① Wrong side of fabric
② 1/4˝ (0.6 cm)

(1) On heavyweight fabrics that tend to ravel, the raw

edge should be overcast first.

(2) Fold the hem under the fabric for lightweight

fabrics.

2

Place the fabric so that the fold is next to the guide

on the foot. Lower the presser foot. Adjust the needle
drop position if necessary. Sew while guiding the fold
along the guide.

③ Fold
④ Guide

39

③

④

Button Sewing

① Stitch pattern: 12 (

100-stitch model

)

07 (20-stitch model)
② Thread tension dial:

3 to 7

③

Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

④

Feed dog: Dropped

Lower the feed dog.
Set the speed control slider at a slower speed.
Set the stitch length at the minimum (0.2).

①

Stitch length (0.2)

Match the holes of button to the horizontal slot of the
presser foot and lower the foot to hold the button in place.

Adjust the stitch width so the needle will enter the left
hole of the button.
Turn the handwheel so that the needle will enter the right
hole of the button. Readjust the stitch width if necessary.

②

Stitch width (adjust to span of holes)

Stitch several times.

After you finish sewing, cut the thread but leave 4˝ (10
cm) of threads at the end.
With a hand sewing needle, draw the top thread to the
reverse side of the fabric and knot the threads.

After the button sewing is completed, raise the feed dogs
for normal sewing.

①

②

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

Gathering

① Stitch pattern: 00
② Thread tension dial: 1
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

Loosen the thread tension to “1” and increase the stitch
length to 5.0.

Sew two rows of straight stitches 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) apart.
Knot the threads at the beginning.

Pull the bobbin threads at the end to gather the fabric.

Knot the threads at the end and distribute the gathers
evenly.

① ②

③

①②

40

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Shelltuck

① Stitch pattern: 19 (

100-stitch model

)

16 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 6 to 8
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example).
Fold the fabric in bias as shown and stitch on the fold.

Allow the needle to barely clear the folded edge to create
a shelled edge.
① Needle
② Fold

If you sew rows of shell tuck, space the rows at least
5/8˝ (1.5 cm) apart.

You can also sew shell tuck on knits or soft silky woven
fabrics, in any direction.

①

②

③

①

②

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09

Patchwork

① Stitch pattern: 20 and 33 (

100-stitch model

)

00 and 17 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

Satin stitch foot F
* The stitch patterns 29, 40 and 58 can also be used

(100-stitch model).

②

Patchwork piecing

1

Place the patchwork pieces right sides together.

Select stitch pattern 20 for 100-stitch model.

Select stitch pattern 00 for 20-stitch model.
Sew a precise 1/4˝ seam allowance.

① Wrong side of fabric
② Right side of fabric

Patchwork

2

Replace the presser foot with satin stitch foot F.

Select the patchwork pattern.

3

Press the seam allowance to open. Sew the stitch

pattern on the right side of the garment centering over
the seam line.

①

②

②

1

2 3

③②

①

41

①

③②

Adjusting the stitch width

Select pattern .
Press the cursor buttons to move the cursor
under the stitch width value “3.5” ③ (default setting).
Press the button to decrease the stitch width ④ .
Press the button to increase the stitch width ⑤ .
The stitch width will be varied base on the centered
needle drop position ⑥ .

③ Stitch width (3.5)
④ Stitch width decreased
⑤ Stitch width increased
⑥ Center needle drop position

For 100-stitch model:

(A) The stitch pattern 56 has a fixed left needle drop
position. When you change the stitch width, the right
needle drop position will change.

(B) The stitch pattern 52, 53 and 54 has a fixed
center needle drop position. The stitch width changes
symmetrically.

(C) The stitch patterns 55 and 57 have a fixed right
needle drop position. When you change the stitch width,
the left needle drop position will change.

③

④

⑤

⑥

②

①

Place an applique on the fabric and baste or pin it in place.
Sew while guiding the fabric so the needle falls along the
outer edge of the applique.

① Applique
② Outer edge

When turning a sharp corner, stop the machine with the
needle at the outer edge of the applique (refer to page 9).
Raise the foot and pivot the fabric around the needle to
change the sewing direction.

(A) (B) (C)

Applique

① Stitch pattern: 52 (

100-stitch model)

18 (20-stitch model)

②

Thread tension dial: 1 to 4

③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F
* The stitch patterns 53 - 57 can also be used (100-stitch

model).

42

Fringing

① Stitch pattern: 52 - 54 (

100-stitch model)

18 (20-stitch model)

②

Thread tension dial: 1 to 4

③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

4

4

①

①

②

②

③

③

Fringing adds a special touch on table linens and shawls.
Choose a firm, woven fabric like linen where threads can
be removed easily.

1

Carefully cut the fabric on the grain. Remove a single

strand of yarn or thread where the fringing is to begin.

2

Sew down the left side so the right hand stitches fall

in the open space.

Drawn Work

① Stitch pattern: 52 - 54 (

100-stitch model)

18 (20-stitch model)

②

Thread tension dial: 1 to 4

③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

Drawn work uses the same method as fringing. Choose
a firm, woven fabric like linen where threads can be
removed easily.

1

Carefully cut the fabric on the grain. Determine the

width of the drawn work and remove one strand of
yarn or fabric thread at each end.

1

2

3

2

Sew down the left side, guiding the fabric so the right

hand stitches fall in open space. After finishing the left
side, turn the fabric around 180°. Sew down the other
side.

3

Remove the yarn or fabric threads between the

stitching.

3

Remove all excess yarn located to the right of the

stitching and create a fringe.

1

2

3

43

F FFFFFFAFFFFAF

FFFFFFFFFFFFFF

60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71

Cross Stitch (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch Pattern: 65-67
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

You can make cross stitch designs with these patterns, in
half the time it would take if embroidered by hand.

Use a plain close woven fabric such as linen or wool
flannel. If you use light weight fabric, apply a tear away
backing for support.

Sew from the center of the design outward.

If you press the auto-lock button before sewing, the
machine will sew one unit of the cross stitch and stop
automatically.

① Auto-lock button

4

①

②

③

①

①

③②

①

②

Tighten the thread tension to 5-8 when sewing.

French Knots (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 47
② Thread tension dial: 5 to 8
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

①

②

③

Fagoting

① Stitch pattern: 25, 29, 33, 35 or 58
(100-stitch model)
09 or 17 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Zigzag foot A or

Satin stitch foot F

Use these stitches to join two pieces of fabric to create
an open work appearance and add design interest.

Fold under each fabric edge 5/8˝ (1.5 cm) and press.
Pin the two edges to paper or tear backing 1/8˝ (0.3–0.4
cm) apart.

Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so the needle catches the
folded edge on each side.
After sewing is finished, tear away the paper.
① 1/8˝ (0.3–0.4 cm)
② Paper

44

Smocking

① Stitch pattern: 33 or 58 (

100-stitch model

)

17 ( 20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

4

①

②

③

①

②

③

Smocking is a delicate decorative treatment used on
children’s clothes or women’s blouses.

Use a soft and lightweight fabric such as batiste, gingham
or challis.
Cut the fabric three times wider than the projected width.

Select straight stitch, set stitch length at “5.0” and loosen
the thread tension.
Sew rows of straight stitches 3/8˝ (1 cm) apart across the
area to be smocked. Knot the threads along one edge.
From the other edge, pull the bobbin threads to distribute
the gathers evenly.
① 3/8˝ (1 cm)
② Knotted thread

Set the thread tension to 3–6 and select a smocking
stitch pattern.
Sew the smocking stitch pattern between the rows of
straight stitches.
Remove the straight stitches by pulling them out.
③ Straight stitch

Scallop Stitch

① Stitch pattern: 97, 27 or 28 (

100-stitch model

)

19 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

4

①

②

③

Sew the stitches approximately 3/8˝ (1 cm) inside the
fabric edge.

Trim the outside of the stitches as shown. Make sure not
to cut the thread.

F FFFFFFAFFFFAF

FFFFFFFFFFFFFF

60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71

45

①

③②

Satin Stitches

① Stitch pattern: 93-99 (

100-stitch model

)

19 (20-stitch model)

② Thread tension dial: 1 to 4
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

You can close quilt layers and using the clasp stitch.
Select the clasp stitch.
Press the auto-lock button.
Start sewing.
The machine sews clasp stitch and locking stitch then
stops automatically.
① Auto-lock button

Clasp Stitches (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 34 or 69
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

4

①

②

③

①

①

For better sewing results, interfacing should be used
on the wrong side of the fabric when you use stretch or
elastic fabrics.
Press the auto-lock button to finish the end of the pattern.
① Auto-lock button

46

Correcting Deformed Stitch Patterns

The sewing results of stretch stitch patterns may vary
depending on sewing conditions, such as sewing speed,
fabric type, number of layers etc.
If stretch stitch patterns are deformed, correct them by
turning the feed balancing dial with the screwdriver.

If the pattern is compressed, turn the dial in the direction
of “+”.
If the pattern is drawn out, turn the dial in the direction of
“–”.
① Feed balancing dial

(+)

(–)

①

For the best sewing results, carefully align and guide the
fabric when you sew with decorative stitches.
Use a tear-way backing if necessary.

Decorative Stitches (100-stitch model only)

① Stitch pattern: 75
② Thread tension dial: 3 to 6
③ Presser foot: Satin stitch foot F

* The stitch patterns 76-92 can also be used.

①

②

③

4

47

②

③

⑤

④

1

2

3

4

5

1

2

④

①

⑤

⑥

⑤

⑦

⑦

CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dog

WARNING:

Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine
before cleaning.
Do not dismantle the machine other than as explained
in this section.

CAUTION:

Do not store the machine in a high-humidity area,
near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight. Store the
machine in cool dry place.

Installing the Bobbin Holder

1

Insert the bobbin holder so that the knob fits next to

the stopper in the hook race.
① Bobbin holder
② Knob
③ Stopper

Press the needle up/down button to raise the needle, turn
the power switch off, then unplug the sewing machine.
Remove the needle and presser foot.
Remove the hook cover plate by sliding the hook cover
plate release button to the right. Take out the bobbin.
Brush out dust and lint. (You may also use a vacuum
cleaner.)

1

Remove the setscrews on the needle plate with the

screwdriver supplied with the machine. Remove the

needle plate.

① Screwdriver
② Setscrew
③ Needle plate

2

Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.

④ Bobbin holder

3

Clean the bobbin holder with a lint brush.

⑤ Lint brush

4

Clean the feed dog and hook race with the lint brush.
⑥ Feed dog
⑦ Hook race

5

Clean the inside of the hook race with a dry cloth.
You may also use a vacuum cleaner.

NOTE:

Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and
neutral soap.

2

Attach the needle plate with the setscrews.
After cleaning the machine, make sure the needle and

presser foot are attached.
④ Screwdriver
⑤ Setscrew

①

③

②

④

48

Warning Sign Cause Try this

1. The start/stop button is pressed with the foot control
connected.

2. The foot control is out of order.

(The foot control sign keeps blinking.)

Disconnect the foot control.

Contact the service center
or the store from whom the
machine was purchased.

The bobbin winder spindle is shifted to the right. Shift the bobbin winder

spindle to the left for
stitching.

The machine will stop if the buttonhole is sewn without
lowering the buttonhole lever.

Lower the buttonhole lever
and start the machine again.

The machine is started after halting due to overload.

Wait for at least 15 seconds to
restart.
Turn the power switch OFF.
Remove tangled threads
around take-up lever, hook
race.

(E1-E7) The machine does not work properly due to a problem in

the control circuit.

Contact the service center
or the store from whom the
machine was purchased.

It is not abnormal that a faint humming sound comes out from inside the machine.
LCD display may get warm when the machine has been used for hours.

Audible Signal The Buzzer sounds when:

pip Normal operation.
pip-pip-pip Invalid operation or malfunction.
peep E1-E7 error occurred.
pip pi-pi-pi-peep Buttonhole is completed.

Problems and Warning Signals

If a buzzer sounds and the LCD screen shows a warning sign, follow the guidance below.

49

Troubleshooting

Condition Cause Reference

The needle thread
breaks

1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.

2. The needle thread tension is too tight.

3. The needle is bent or blunt.

4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.

5. The needle and bobbin threads are not set under the presser foot
when start sewing.

6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle.

Page 13
Pag e 17-18
Page 9
Page 9
Page 19

Page 9

The bobbin thread
breaks

1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holder.

2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.

3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.

4. The thread is wound loosely on the bobbin.

Page 12
Page 47
Change the bobbin.
Pag e 11

The needle breaks 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.

2. The needle clamp screw is loose.

3. The threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing.

4. The needle is too fine for the fabric being used.

5. An inappropriate presser foot is used.

Page 9
Page 9
Page 19
Page 9
Use the correct foot.

Skipped stitches 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted, bent or blunt.

2. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn.

3. A blue tip needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very fine fabrics
and synthetics.

4. The needle thread is not threaded properly.

5. A poor quality needle is used.

Page 9
Page 9
Use the stretch stitch
needle.
Page 13
Change the needle.

Seam puckering 1. The needle thread tension is too tight.

2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.

3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.

4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.

5. A stabilizer is not used when sewing very fine fabrics.

Pag e 17-18
Page 13
Page 9
Make stitch shorter.
Apply a stabilizer.

The fabric is not
feeding smoothly

1. The feed dog is packed with lint.

2. The stitches are too fine.

3. The feed dog is not raised after “drop feed” sewing.

Page 47
Make stitch longer.
Page 9

Loops on the seams 1. The needle thread tension is too loose.

2. The needle is too thick or too fine for the fabric.

Pag e 17-18
Page 9

The machine does
not work

1. The machine is not plugged in.

2. Thread has been caught in the hook race.

3. The bobbin winder spindle is not returned to the left after bobbin
winding.

Page 4
Page 47
Pag e 11

Buttonhole sewing
is not sewn properly

1. The stitch density is not suitable for the fabric being sewn.

2. The interfacing has not been used for the stretch or synthetic fabric.

3. The buttonhole lever is not lowered.

Page 29
Apply an interfacing.
Page 28

The machine is
noisy

1. Thread has been caught in the hook race.

2. Lint has built up in the hook race or bobbin holder.

Page 47
Page 47

50

Stitch Chart

100-stitch model

51

20-stitch model

52

Introduction of optional accessory parts

Make your home sewing more pleasant!
Please purchase the following items in the shop where you buy our products.

●

Quilt presser foot (Transparent
zigzag type)

It is used for free-motion quilting. Zigzag stitch is
also possible with this presser foot.

●

Walking foot

This presser foot is used for “difcult-to-feed”
materials such knit, jersies, vinyl, articial leather

and leather or quilting.

●

Wide Table

For sewing large projects such as quilts, etc.

●

Quilt guide

This is a guide to sew lines in the same distance.

Copyright % 2015 JUKI CORPORATION
All rights reserved throughout the world.

001015

2-11-1, TSURUMAKI, TAMA-SHI,
TOKYO, 206-8551, JAPAN

PHONE : [phone]
FAX : [phone]

40168851 / 808850540