JUKI HZL-G220, HZL-G120 Instruction Manual
COMPUTER SEWING MACHINE
MÁQUINA DE COSER ELECTRÓNICA
MACHINE ELECTRONIQUE
MACCHINA PER CUCIRE ELETTRONICA
HZL-G220/G120
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
MANUAL DE INSTRUCCIONES
MANUEL D'INSTRUCTIONS
MANUALE DI ISTRUZIONI
Attention
Please read this instruction manual before using
the machine as it contains important operational
and safety information.
Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer
to it at anytime while operating the machine.
Attention
Avant de mettre la machine en marche, lire attentivement et assimiler les règles de securité de ce
manuel.
Conserver le manuel an de pouvoir le consulter
ultérieurement.
Atención
Lea este manual de instrucciones antes de utilizar
la máquina, porque contiene información de ope
ración y seguridad importante.
Mantenga este manual accesible para poder con
sultarlo en cualquier momento cuando utilice la
máquina.
Attenzione
Prima di utilizzare la macchina per cucire, leggere
attentamente questo manuale d’istruzioni conte
nente importanti informazioni sul funzionamento e
la sicurezza.
Tenere questo manuale in un luogo accessibile
così da poterlo consultare in qualsiasi momento
durante l’utilizzo della macchina.
1
“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
“DANGER
____ To reduce the risk of electric shock:”
1. The appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before
cleaning.
“WARNING
____
To reduce the risk of burns, re, electric shock, or injury to persons:”
1.
Do not allow this appliance to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children. This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and
above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience
and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appli
ance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3.
Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it
has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest au
-
thorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5.
Keep ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
6. Always use the proper stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deect the needle causing it to break.
9. Switch the sewing machine off “O” when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot.
10. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, when lubricating
or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off “O” position, then remove plug from outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
16. Basically, the machine should be disconnected from the electricity supply when not in use.
17. If the power cord of this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced with a special cord by
your nearest authorized dealer or service center.
18. (Except USA/Canada) This machine is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing Double-Insulated machine.
“SERVICING DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS”
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No
grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be
added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge
of the system and should only be done by qualied service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words DOUBLE INSULATION or DOUBLE INSULATED.
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
“SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS”
“This sewing machine is intended for household use only.”
2
Danger
warning
which is not
specied
There is a
risk of electrical shock
There is a
risk of re
There is
a risk of
injury to
hands, etc.
Prohibited matter
which is not
specied
Disassembly/
alteration is
prohibited
Do not
place ngers under
the needle
Do not
pour oil,
etc.
Generally
required
behavior
Disconnect
the power
plug
Congratulations on your purchase of a JUKI sewing machine.
Please be sure to read safety precautions in “To use the sewing machine safely” in the Instruction
Manual before use to fully understand the functions and operating procedures of the sewing machine so as to use the sewing machine for a long time.
After you have read the Instruction Manual, please be sure to keep it together with the warranty
so that you can read it whenever necessary.
To use the sewing machine safely
Marks and pictographs included in the Instruction Manual and shown on the sewing machine are
used so as to ensure safe operation of the sewing machine and to prevent possible risk of injury
to the user and other people.
Warning marks are used for different purposes as described below.
WARNING
Indicates that there is a possible risk of death or serious injury if this
mark is ignored and the sewing machine is used in a wrong manner.
CAUTION
Indicates the operation, etc. which can cause a possible risk of personal
injury and/or physical damage if this mark is ignored and the sewing ma
-
chine is used in a wrong manner.
Pictographs mean the following:
3
● Do not wipe the sewing machine with solvent
such as thinner.
When the sewing
machine is soiled, put
a small quantity of
neutral detergent on a
piece of soft cloth and
carefully wipe off the
sewing machine with it.
● Be sure to use the sewing machine in the
temperature range from 5ºC to 40ºC.
If the temperature is excessively low, the
machine can fail to operate normally.
WARNING
For the combination of the material and the thread and needle, in particular, refer to the explanation table in “Replacement of the needle”.
If the needle or thread does not match the material used such as in the case that an extra heavyweight material (e.g., denim) is sewn with a thin needle (#11 or higher), the needle can break resulting in an unexpected personal injury.
Other precautions
● Do not put the sewing machine under the
direct sunlight or in a humid place.
Be aware that the following state can take place since the sewing machine incorporates
semi-conductor electronic parts and precise electronic circuits.
* The operating temperature of the sewing machine is between 5ºC and 40ºC. Do not use the
sewing machine under the direct sunlight, near the burning things such as a stove and candle,
or in a humid place. By so doing, the temperature in the interior portion of the sewing machine
can rise or the coating of the power cord can melt, causing re or electrical shock.
● This sewing machine will stop due to safe-
ty mechanism to prevent the machine from
overheating, when it sews slowly and for a
long time. In this event, Start and Stop button will not light.
The sewing machine
will return to working
condition after about 10
minutes.
Stop!
4
Important safety instructions
…………………………………
1~3
Principal parts
…………………………………………………………
5
Accessories
……………………………………………………………
6
Basic operations
Function of operational buttons
…………………………………
7
Connecting to the power supply
………………………………
8
Speed control
……………………………………………………………
9
Presser foot lifting lever
……………………………………………
9
Name and function of other operational buttons
…
10, 11
Changing the presser foot
…………………………………
12, 13
Bobbin thread preparation
…………………………………
14, 15
Needle thread preparation
………………………………
16, 17
Threading the needle thread
Automatic needle threader
Pulling up the bobbin thread
Attaching the needle
………………………………………………
18
Fabric, thread and needle table
………………………………
18
How to adjust thread tension
…………………………………
19
How to lower feed dog
……………………………………………
19
How to select a stitch pattern
……………………………
20, 21
Practical sewing
Straight stitch
……………………………………………………
22~26
How to use seam guide line on the throat plate
How to change needle positions
How to change the stitch length
Automatic lock stitch and programmed thread trimming
Other straight stitch patterns
Zigzag stitch
……………………………………………………………
26
Overcasting stitch
…………………………………………………
27
Blind stitch
………………………………………………………
28, 29
Buttonhole stitches
…………………………………………
30~33
Standard buttonholing
Keyhole buttonholing
Buttonhole with gimp
When changing the width of the buttonhole
When changing the density of the seam
Bartacking
………………………………………………………………
34
Inserting zippers
………………………………………………
35, 36
Side zipper attachment
Butted zipper attachment
Shirring and gathering
……………………………………………
37
Pintucking
………………………………………………………………
37
Welt seam
………………………………………………………………
38
Decorative stitches and one point pattern
………………
38
Scallop stitches
………………………………………………………
39
CONTENTS
Patchwork quilt
Quilt
………………………………………………………………………
39
Applique
…………………………………………………………………
40
Decorative stitches
Sewing letters and one point pattern
…………………
41~43
Preparation before stitching
……………………………
41
Test sewing
…………………………………………………………
41
How to select patterns (letters)
…………………
42, 43
How to stitch a pattern (letters)
………………………
43
Disposing thread ends of jump stitches
…………
43
How to sew combined sewing patterns
continuously
………………………………………………………
44
Optional accessory parts
Introduction of optional accessory parts
……………
44, 45
How to install wide table
…………………………………………
46
How to use quilt guide
……………………………………………
46
Stitch in ditch quilting
………………………………………………
47
Quilting (straight stitch)
…………………………………………
47
Quilting (free motion)
………………………………………………
48
Machine maintenance
……………………………………………
49
Performance check list
……………………………………
50, 51
List of stitch patterns
………………………………………………
52
Specications
……………………………………………
back cover
5
Hand wheel (pulley)
Power switch
Machine-socket-inlet
Foot-controller-jack
Spool cap (large)
Spool pin
LCD Screen
Operational buttons
Face plate cover
Start/stop button
Auxiliary bed
(accessory case)
Presser foot lifting lever
Drop feed knob
Needle setscrew
Needle
Presser foot
Presser foot releasing button
Feed dog
Throat plate
Hook cover
Bobbin winding shaft
Hook cover release button
Presser foot holder setscrew
Presser foot holder
Reverse stitch button
* Do not put heavy
objects onto hard
case and wide table.
Thread cutter
Speed controller
Thread trimming button (G220)
Needle up/down button (G120)
Thread tension adjustment dial
Principal parts
Hard case
Buttonholing lever
Threading lever
6
Draw the auxiliary bed out to the left.
● Inside the auxiliary bed.
Ripper / Cleaning brush
Standard presser
foot (A)
Bobbin (3)
Needle set
HA X 1 # 11 (1)
# 14 (1)
# 16 (1)
for knit # 11 (1)
Accessories
● Supplied with the machine
● Placed at styrofoam
Foot Controller
(model name;
4C-339G
)
Bobbin (1)
Spool cap (large)
Spool cap (Small)
Instruction manual
(This manual)
Power cord
Blind stitch presser foot (D)
Zipper presser foot (B)
Buttonhole presser foot (E)
Overcasting presser foot (C)
T-shape screwdriver
Manual buttonhole presser foot (I)
Instruction DVD
7
Notes for thread trimming:
1. Do not use thread thicker than No.30.
2. After trimming, the stitch can be done without pulling up bobbin thread.
3. When sewing again after thread trimming, if you pull up the
bobbin thread again and place it underneath the presser foot
together with needle thread, you can avoid birds nest on the
wrong side of the fabric.
4. Regularly clean the machine (refer to page 49), as dust in the
area of the thread trimming unit may cause malfunction.
Speed controller
While sewing, speed can be adjusted.
Start/stop button
When pressing this button, machine starts
to sew slowly and then up to the speed set
by speed controller. When pressing this
button again, machine stops with needle at
its down position. Color of button indicates
machine status.
Green: Ready to start and/or while sewing
Red: Not ready to start (When it is pushed
in red condition, needle moves by one
stitch.)
Orange: Machine is in bobbin winding condition.
Reverse stitch button
While pressing this button,
machine sews reverse (lock stitch).
Thread trimming button
After sewing, press this button to trim both threads automatically.
Function of operational buttons
G220
G120
Needle up/down button
When machine stops, press this button to change the needle position.
(When the needle is up, the needle moves down and vise versa.)
Even when the presser foot is raised, be aware that the
needle moves up or downward.
8
Connecting to the power supply
Not-using foot-controller that using start/stop-button:
1. Turn OFF the power switch (turn to “O”)
2. Insert cord-connector into machine-socket-inlet.
3. Insert plug into socket-outlet.
4. Turn ON the power switch. (Turn to “I”)
Machine-socket-inlet
Warning
• Disconnect the plug and turn off the power switch (turn to “O”) that always sewing machine is
not to use. Otherwise, it may cause electric shock and/or re.
Power switch
WARNING (For U.S.A.,Canada only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the
other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to
t in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not t fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not t, contact a qualied
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in
any way.
Plug
Socket-outlet
Cord-connector
Using the foot-controller:
1. Turn OFF the power switch (turn to “O”)
2. Insert the foot-controller-plug into the foot-controller-jack.
3. Insert cord-connector into machine-socket-inlet.
4. Insert plug into socket-outlet.
5. Turn ON the power switch. (Turn to “I”)
* When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button
cannot be used to start sewing.
Start button: Can not operate to start sewing.
Stop button: Can operate to stop sewing.
Plug
Foot controller
Foot-controller-plug
Foot-controller-jack
Power switch
Socket-outlet
Cord-connector
Machine-socket-inlet
Operating power switch:
Turn OFF the machine, set the
power switch to "0".
Turn ON the machine, set the
power switch to "I".
ON
OFF
9
Speed control
Speed controller
Maximum sewing speed can be freely set by the speed controller.
Faster speed
Slower speed
Faster speed
Slower speed
Foot controller
To run the machine, press the foot controller.
The harder you press, the faster the machine sews.
Speed controller will set the maximum sewing speed.
Pressing harder → faster speed
Pressing weaker → slower speed
* Always clean the foot controller.
It is important that you do not place any objects on the foot
controller as it may cause injury to the user and may cause
malfunctions.
Presser foot lifting lever
The presser foot can be up or down position by using the presser
foot lifting lever.
1
Lowered position …… Presser foot should be lowered when sew-
ing.
2
Ordinary lift position …… This position is used for fabric removal
and/or changing the presser foot.
3
Extra lift position …… This position is used to put heavy materials
underneath the presser foot.
* Be careful that the presser foot and the needle should not interfere
when the needle is in down position and the presser foot is raised
to the extra lift position.
Presser foot lifting
lever
Presser foot
1
2
3
1
2
3
10
Presser foot to be used
(marking)
Name and function of other operational buttons
Operational buttons and screen
Zigzag width
Stitch length
3
Stitch length adjusting button
4
Automatic lock stitch and
thread trimming button
5
Needle up/down button /
Needle stop position
switching button
1
Pattern selection
button
2
Zigzag width
adjusting button
Pattern number
G220
Needle stop position
Needle stops at
its highest position
Needle stops at its
lowest position
6
Pattern selection mode
switching button
Pattern select mode
Practical patterns
One-point patterns
Letters
7
Memory button
8
Clear button
9
Pattern adjustment button
Presser foot to be used
(marking)
Zigzag width
Stitch length
3
Stitch length adjusting button
4
Automatic lock stitch
button
5
Needle stop position
switching button
1
Pattern selection
button
2
Zigzag width
adjusting button
Pattern number
G120
Needle stop position
Needle stops at
its highest position
Needle stops at its
lowest position
6
Pattern selection mode
switching button
Pattern select mode
Practical patterns
One-point patterns
Letters
7
Memory button
8
Clear button
9
Pattern adjustment button
11
1
Pattern selection
button
This is used to choose the pattern.
Left side for number of tens.
Right side for number of units.
2
Zigzag width
adjustment buttons
This is used to change the zigzag width and the needle position.
3
Stitch length
adjustment buttons
This is used to change the stitch length.
4
Automatic lock
stitch and thread
trimming button
When it is pressed, symbol “
“ will be shown on the screen.
The machine will automatically lock stitches at sewing-start and sewing-end
and then trim both threads.
Automatic lock
stitch
When it is pressed, symbol “
“ will be shown on the screen.
The machine will automatically lock stitches at sewing-start and sewing-end.
5
Needle up/down
button /
Needle stop position
switching button
While sewing machine stops sewing, press this button to change up/down position
of the needle instantly. When the needle is in up position and press it, then needle
moves down and when the needle is in down position and press it, then needle
moves up.
When the button is pressed continuously, it is programmable and you can choose
the needle stop position either up or down.
When it is pressed, either symbol “
” or “ ” will be shown on the screen.
When sewing with symbol “
”, the needle stops at its highest position.
When sewing with the symbol “
”, the needle stops at its lowest position.
Needle stop
position
switching button
When it is pressed, either symbol “
” or “ ” will be shown on the screen.
When sewing with symbol “
”, the needle stops at its highest position.
When sewing with the symbol “
”, the needle stops at its lowest position.
6
Pattern selection
mode switching
button
This is used to change the pattern selection mode.
Practical patterns / One point patterns (Decorative patterns)
/
Letters
7
Memory button This is used to store the selected letters or one point patterns into memory.
8
Clear button This is used to delete the selected stitch pattern. When the button is pressed just
one time, the selected pattern will be deleted and when it is pressed continuously,
all the saved stitch patterns will be deleted.
9
Pattern adjustment
button
This is used to adjust the shape of patterns.
(Refer to page 41)
Name and function of operational buttons
G220
G120
G220
G120
12
Changing the presser foot
Removing and installing the presser foot
Removing presser foot
1. Raise the needle and presser foot.
2. Press the presser foot releasing button to remove the presser foot.
Installing presser foot
Align the pin of the presser foot and the groove in the presser foot
holder.
Then lower the presser foot holder with the presser foot lifting lever.
* Each presser foot has a marking. Use the appropriate presser foot
for the stitch pattern to be sewn.
Presser foot
releasing button
Presser foot holder
Presser foot
Groove in presser
foot holder
Pin
Presser foot
marking
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before replacing the presser foot.
Removing and installing presser foot holder
Removing presser foot holder
1. Lift the needle and presser foot lifting lever.
2. Loosen the setscrew of the presser foot holder to the left and remove the presser foot holder.
Setscrew of presser foot holder
Presser foot holder
Installing presser foot holder
Align the screw hole at the presser bar with the hole of presser foot
holder (long groove). Tighten the setscrew rmly by turning it to the
right side.
Setscrew of presser
foot holder
Presser foot holder
Presser bar
13
The type and application of the presser foot
Standard presser foot
A
This is used mainly for straight stitch and zigzag stitches. Use this
presser foot especially when sewing heavy-weight materials.
Zipper presser foot
B
This is used to attach zippers.
Overcasting presser foot
C
This presser foot is used exclusively for overcasting to prevent the cut
edge of fabrics from fraying.
Blind stitch presser foot
D
This presser foot is used for blind stitch on hems of trousers and skirts,
or sleeves.
Buttonhole presser foot
E
This presser foot is used for automatic buttonholing.
Manual buttonhole presser foot
I
This is used for sewing decorative stitches, letters and bartacks.
Marking of presser foot
↓
Optional presser feet
Walking foot
N
In general, this presser foot is used for difcult-to-feed” materials such
as knits, jersies, vinyl, articial leather and leather or quilting.
Patchwork presser foot
P
This presser foot is used for patchwork stitches. There are two seam
lines, 1/4-inch and 1/8-inch from center needle position.
Smooth presser foot
T
This presser foot is used for non-slippery materials like vinyl and satin
stitches.
Open toe presser foot
O
This is used for the applique and decorative stitches.
(Front part of the presser foot is open for better visibility.)
Quilt presser foot
Q
This is used for the quilt stitch.
(Machine setting: Straight Stitch and Center needle position)
Edge Sewing presser foot
R
This is used for patchwork, sewing center line of joined materials by
using the center guide of the presser foot.
* Fine tune the needle position by zigzag width adjustment dial.
14
4
1
2
3
5
Thread guide
Spool pin
Bobbin thread preparation
Open the hook cover.
Take out the bobbin.
* If the bobbin has too little thread, do not use it as the
thread will get tangled.
* Use only the designated bobbin. Other bobbins may cause
malfunction.
Taking out the bobbin
Place a thread spool to spool pin and a spool cap
onto the spool pin.
* Do not use the thread cone with a small amount of
thread. This may cause thread tangling and/or the thread
coming out of the eye of the needle when starting to
sew.
Setting thread spool
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before the bobbin is taking out and/or put into the bobbin case.
1
Small spool
Spool Cap
Large spool
Spool Cap
Hook cover
When winding is finished, the shaft stops
automatically, the bobbin winding regulator
moves to right and return to the original position.
Remove the bobbin from the bobbin winding
shaft and cut the thread.
* Bobbin winding will automatically stop even while
winding, when the winding speed is reduced due to
a load to the bobbin winding motor caused by thread
tangling.
5
4
Winding the bobbin thread
Set the bobbin on the bobbin winding shaft 4.
3
4
Press the bobbin winding regulator 5 towards
the bobbin. Start/stop button now becomes
orange. When start/stop button is pressed,
machine starts to wind the bobbin thread.
Bobbin winding
shaft
1
Bobbin winding regulator
2
Thread the guide 1, then thread the thread guides
2
and 3 (guides in the circle) for bobbin winding.
2
15
Setting the bobbin
Thread groove A and B by pulling the thread
end.
* It will be easier to thread grooves when you press the
bobbin lightly with your nger.
Thread guide C by pulling the thread to left side.
B
A
C
3
2
1
Put the bobbin in the bobbin case.
* Place the bobbin so that thread winds counterclock-
wise.
Cut the thread with the built-in cutter
F
.
5
Close the hook cover.
F
You can start to sew in this condition (without
pulling up the bobbin thread), however, if you want
to sew with the bobbin thread pulled out, refer to
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” in the page 17.
Thread to guide D and E leave the thread
underneath. (Thread guide E rst and it will
thread to guide D as well.)
* When pulling bobbin thread, bobbin rotates counter-
clockwise. If bobbin rotates clockwise, put the bobbin
upside down.
4
D
E
C
6
16
It is impossible to perform stitching if the needle is not correctly
installed or a bent needle is used.
Pay close attention as this will
cause machine malfunction.
Note
:
* Use the needle: No.11-16 and
the thread: No.30-90.
* When twin needle is used, the
automatic needle threader
can not be used.
Needle thread preparation
Make sure
to push
the needle
to the top.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Warning
Turn OFF the power switch before winding the bobbin thread.
Lift the presser foot lifting lever.
Place a thread spool to the spool pin and a spool
cap onto the spool pin.
①
②
Small spool
Spool Cap
Large spool
Spool Cap
1
2
3
4
5
Thread to guide 1.
Hold the thread end and thread according to the
arrow marking.
* Make sure that the presser foot is raised. Otherwise
the machine is not correctly threaded.
* Check that the thread take-up is correctly threaded.
③
6
Thread the guide 6 from the right-hand side.
④
* Align the marking
at the hand wheel
with the one on the
machine body.
Threading the needle thread
17
A
Release the threading lever and the needle thread
is threaded to the needle eye.
Automatic needle threader
Lower the presser foot.
Raise the needle. Then, lower the needle threader
halfway (until it becomes heavy) and thread the
thread to
A
.
Lower the needle threader fully. Then, thread the
thread between the guides completely. (Needle
threader will catch the thread through needle
eye.)
Threading lever
Pull the thread backward.
Pull out the thread from the needle eye by approx. 10 cm
or 4 inches long.
3
1
2
4
Pulling up the bobbin thread
Pull out both needle and bobbin threads by
approx. 10 cm (4 inches) long and pass them
under the presser foot towards the back of the
machine.
Lift the presser foot and lightly hold the end of
the needle thread.
Turn the hand wheel towards you to move the
needle up and down. Loop of bobbin thread will
be pulled out when you will pull the needle thread
lightly.
2
3
1
Basic operation:
You can start to sew without pulling up the bobbin thread,
however, if you want to sew with the bobbin thread pulled
out, follow the directions below.
18
Fabric, thread and needle table
Fabric
Thread Needle
HA×1
Light-weight materials
Lawn
Silk thread
…………………………………
No.80,90
Spun thread
………………………………
No.80,90
No.11
Georgette
Tricot Spun thread
………………………………
No.60-90
Knit needle
No.11
Wool and synthetic fabrics
Silk thread
………………………………………
No.80
Spun thread
……………………………
No.60-90
No.11-14
Medium-weight materials
Cotton and synthetic fabrics Spun thread
……………………………
No.50, 60 No.11-14
Light jersey
Silk thread
………………………………………
No.50
Spun thread
………………………………
No.50, 60
Knit needle
No.11
Ordinary wool and synthetic
fabrics
Silk thread
………………………………………
No.50
Spun thread
………………………………
No.50, 60
No.11-14
Heavy-weight
materials
Denim Spun thread
………………………………
No.30-50 No.14-16
Jersey
Silk thread
………………………………………
No.50
Spun thread
………………………………
No.50, 60
Knit needle
No.11-14
Coat Silk thread
………………………………………
No.50 No.11-14
* In general, the same thread is used for both needle and bobbin threads.
* Thin thread and needle will be used for light-weight fabrics and thick thread and needle will be used for heavy-weight materials.
* Check that the combination of needle and thread is OK by trial sewing on the material which will be sewn.
* Knit needle is good for stretchy fabrics (such as knits) and synthetic fabrics.
* Use thread No. 30 - 90.
* When it is difcult to go over an overlapped section, guide the fabric by hand.
* When sewing decorative stitches or letters (Page 21), use knit needle for better nish.
Attaching the needle
Removing needle
1. Turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle comes
to the highest position and lower the presser foot.
2. Turn the needle setscrew towards you 1-2 times and re-
move the needle.
Attaching the needle
(The needle cannot be inserted unless it is
correctly positioned.)
Hold the needle with its at part facing away from you, and
insert it fully until it touches the stopper pin. Securely tighten the needle setscrew.
Stopper pin
Hold the needle with its at part
facing away from you
1
2
Needle setscrew
Screwdriver
Needle size:
The larger the number,
the thicker the needle.
Needles to be purchased
When purchasing spare needles,
specify HA X 1 (130/705H) or HA X 1
SP (needle for knits).
Checking the needle
Check the needle for its straightness
occasionally. Any bent needle would
cause skipped stitches, thread breakage or damage to materials.
Attention: The machine will not sew
if the needle is not inserted
correctly and/or a bent needle
is used. It will cause damage to
the machine.
Flat object
The at part of the
needle
Shank
Warning
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the needle.
19
Move the drop feed knob to the right-hand side, in case the feed dog
is in the down position for free motion quilting, button sewing, etc.
* Move the drop feed knob to the left-hand side after sewing.
The feed dog will be engaged automatically when the machine
starts to sew.
When lowering the feed dog When lifting the feed dog
Drop feed knob
How to lower the feed dog
How to adjust thread tension
Well-balanced thread tension
Straight stitch: Needle and bobbin threads interlace with each
other at the middle of the fabric thickness. (
A
)
Zigzag stitch: Needle thread is pulled a little bit to the wrong
sideof the fabric.
If the machine is set to “4”, it is suitable for most fabrics. However,
adjustment may be necessary according to fabrics and sewing
applications.
If the tension is not correctly set, it will cause imbalanced stitch
formation, puckering, and/or thread breakage.
Needle thread
Bobbin thread
A
Fabric (right side)
Fabric
(wrong side)
Weaker tension
Stronger tension
Thread tension
adjustment dial
4
5
3
When the needle thread is too strong:
The bobbin thread will be pulled to the front side of
the fabric. Turn the thread tension adjustment dial to
choose smaller number.
When the needle thread is too low:
The needle thread will be pulled to the wrong side of
fabric. Turn the thread tension adjustment dial to choose
larger number.
In case a correct tension setting is not obtained, check
thread paths for both needle and bobbin threads.
Bobbin thread
Needle thread
Fabric (wrong side)
Fabric (right side)
Needle thread
Bobbin thread
Fabric (wrong side)
Fabric (right side)
20
Choose by pattern selection mode switching button .
Then choose desired stitch pattern No. by pattern selection button.
Practical patterns
☆
There are 180 types of stitch patterns.
☆
When turning on the machine, the straight stitch of the center needle position is chosen automatically.
☆
There are 3 methods to select stitch pattern.
1
How to select a stitch pattern
On the LCD screen you will see the
selected stitch pattern No. and the
marking of the presser foot to be used.
Pattern number of tens Pattern number of units
Pattern selection button
Pattern
No.
00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09
Pattern Application
Center
needle
position
Left
needle
position
Straight stitch for
elastic
Zigzag stitch
Three point zig zag
Applique
Over casting stitch
Blind stitch
Straight reinforced
stitch
Buttonhole
Straight
stitch
Refer to
page
22 26 26 27 27 40 27 28 26 30
Pattern
No.
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
Pattern
Application
Center
needle
position
Left
needle
position
Right
needle
position
Two point zig zag
Overcasting stitch
Overcasting stitch
Used for lightweight
material
Overcasting stitch
Used for exible
material
Ornamental pattern
Blind stitch Used for
lightweight material
Shell tuck
Bar tack
Eyelet
Darning
Lock stitch
(stay stitches)
Zigzag stitch
Refer to
page
26 26 - 27 27 - - 28 - 34 - -
21
Pattern
No.
23 24 25 26 27 28 29
Pattern
Application
Rounded end
Keyhole
buttonholes
Rounded end
For knit
Decorative
Refer to
page
30
・
Buttonhole patterns
・
Quilt patterns
Pattern
No.
30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39
Pattern
Application
Quilt patterns
Refer to
page
39
Pattern
Refer to
page
41~43
Pattern
Refer to
page
41~43
Choose
by pattern selection mode switching button . Then choose
desired stitch pattern No. by pattern selection button.
Decorative stitches and one point pattern
2
Letters
3
Choose by pattern selection mode switching button . Then
choose desired stitch pattern No. by pattern selection button.
22
Sewing end
Stop sewing and push the thread trimming button to trim the threads.
Straight stitch
Pattern No. Practical 00
Presser foot Standard presser foot (A)
Thread tension Auto
Sewing start
Pull the needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot to the rear of the
machine and lower the presser foot to start sewing.
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before replacing the presser foot.
<by thread trimming button>
Push the thread trimming button to trim the threads.
G220
G220 G120
<by thread cutter at the face plate cover>
You can also cut the threads by the thread cutter at the face plate cover.
23
5
8
4
/
/
1
1
10
20
10
7
5
8
4
/
/
1
1
When sewing the edge of thick fabrics
Turn the hand wheel and let the needle enter at the position of sewing
start.
Push the black button by nger and lower the presser foot. Release the
nger from the black button and start sewing. When the presser foot will be
on the fabric completely, the black button will be disengaged automatically.
When changing the sewing direction
Stop sewing in front of the predetermined position and then continue to
sew, stitch by stitch, by using needle up/down button until the target point.
Leave the needle inside the fabrics and raise the presser foot. With the
needle inside the fabrics change the sewing direction, lower the presser
foot and then start sewing.
Lock stitch after sewing-end
<When start/stop button is used>
After the sewing is finished, push the reverse stitch button. While it
is pressed, the machine will sew reverse and when it is released, the
machine will stop sewing reverse.
* When reverse stitching, the sewing speed is slow.
<When foot controller is used>
The machine will sew reverse at almost the same speed as the normal
sewing.
When the reverse stitch button is released, the machine sews straight.
Seam guide line on the throat plate
Align the fabric edge with a seam guide line and sew.
* Numbers on the guide line show the distance in mm and inches between
the center needle position and the guide line.
Numbers, 7, 10 and 20 are millimeter.
Numbers, 1/ 4, 5/ 8 and 1 are inches.
5 mm
On center needle position basis
24
When changing the needle position of straight stitch
It is possible to change the needle position with the zigzag width
adjusting button.
Pushing "
", the needle moves to the left.
Pushing "
", the needle moves to the right.
When changing the stitch length
It is possible to change the stitch length with the stitch length adjusting
button.
Pushing "
", the displayed value becomes smaller and the stitch
length becomes smaller accordingly.
Pushing "
", the displayed value becomes larger and the stitch
length becomes larger.
How to change needle positions / How to change the stitch length
25
After selecting a stitch pattern,
push
one time.
The machine will sew a few
reverse stitches (lock stitches),
trim both needle and bobbin
threads and stop.
Symbol on screen:
When is pushed once
again, this function will be
cancelled.
G220
Automatic lock
stitch and thread
trimming
B
A
Fabric
Example: straight stitch
After selecting a stitch pattern,
push
one time.
The machine will sew a few
reverse stitches (lock stitches)
and stop.
Symbol on screen:
When is pushed once
again, this function will be
cancelled.
G120
Automatic lock
stitch
B
A
Fabric
Example: straight stitch
Press the reverse stitch button.
B
The machine sews reverse stitches, stop sewing and trim both needle and
bobbin threads automatically.
Place the fabric in the sewing start position and begin sewing.
A
The machine sews a few back stitches and continue.
2
3
After selecting a pattern, you can press to display
on the screen.
1
G220
G120
After selecting a pattern, you can press to display
on the screen.
26
Lock stitch (stay stitches)
At the sewing-end, push the reverse stitch button.
The machine will sew several stay stitches and stop.
Reinforced stretch stitch
The reinforcing stretch stitch helps reinforce seams
when used for sewing of elastic fabric or the forceexerted part of fabric that is likely to fray.
Straight stitch for elastic fabric
Finished seams are elastic. This stitch system can be
used for producing straight stitches on elastic fabrics
such as knits and jersey.
Other straight stitch patterns
Zigzag stitch
When changing the zigzag width
The zigzag width can be adjusted while sewing.
Pushing "
", displayed value becomes smaller and the
zigzag width becomes smaller accordingly.
Pushing "
", displayed value becomes larger and the
zigzag width becomes larger accordingly.
Width
Pattern
No.
Practical 03
Presser
foot
Standard presser
foot (A)
When changing the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted while sewing.
Pushing "
", the displayed value becomes smaller and
the stitch length becomes smaller accordingly.
Pushing "
", the displayed value becomes larger and
the stitch length becomes larger accordingly.
Length
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before
replacing the presser foot.
27
Overcasting stitch
Push the fabric towards the
guide and sew. If the fabric and
guide are apart, it will not make
a nice stitch formation. Make
sure to guide the fabric along
the guide and sew slowly.
* Before sewing, make sure to
check that the needle will not
hit the presser foot.
Overcasting stitch 1
Pattern
No.
Practical 06
Presser
foot
Overcasting
presser foot (C)
This stitch is used for overcast-
ing medium- to heavy-weight
materials.
Guide the fabric along the
guide and sew.
* Before sewing, make sure to
check that the needle will not
hit the presser foot.
Overcasting stitch 2
Pattern
No.
Practical 14
Presser
foot
Overcasting
presser foot (C)
This stitch is used to prevent the edge of fabric from fraying.
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before replacing the presser foot.
This stitch is used to prevent
the cut edge of fabric from fraying.
Keep some seam allowance
and cut the sewn fabric carefully so that stitches are not cut
by the scissors.
Overcasting by 3-point zigzag
Pattern
No.
Practical 04
Presser
foot
Standard presser
foot (A)
This overcasting stitch is used
for overcasting light-weight materials.
Guide the fabric along the
guide and sew.
* Before sewing, make sure to
check that the needle will not
hit the presser foot.
Overcasting stitch 3
Pattern
No.
Practical 15
(Light-weight
material)
Presser
foot
Overcasting
presser foot (C)
* Do not use overcasting
presser foot (C).
28
Blind stitch
Fabric
(wrong side)
Fabric
(wrong side)
Basting line
0.5 to 0.6 cm
Finish line
Sewing overcasting stitches on the edge of fabric.
● Refer to page 27 for overcasting stitches.
Basting.
Folding fabrics
Pattern No. Practical 07, 18 (Light-weight material)
Presser foot Blind stitch presser foot (D)
Attention
Turn OFF the power switch before replacing the presser foot.
1
2
Fabric
(wrong side)
Fabric
(wrong side)
Finish line
Fold from basting line.
Leave 0.5 to 0.6 cm.
Fabric
(wrong side)
Needle
Folded edge
Guide
Align the guide of the presser foot with the folded
edge.
Turn the hand wheel and adjust with the zigzag
width adjusting dial so that stitches reach the
folded edge.
* Pay attention so that needle will not hit the presser foot.
3
4
Guide
Finish line
0.5 to 0.6 cm
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