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S-3023
Instruction Manual
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Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual

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Janome S-3023
Instruction Manual
Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual
Janome sewing machine
S-3023 Owners Manual/ User Guide
AAASewing.com
Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual
Janome sewing machine
www.aaasewing.com
S-3023 Owners Manual/ User Guide
AAASewing.com
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine.
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER— To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
WARNING— To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric
shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this ownerʼs manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this ownerʼs manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this ownerʼs manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
The design and specifications are subject to change without a prior notice.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to elec
trical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your
reta
iler for guidance. (European Union only)
1
Janome S-3023 Instruction Manual
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S-3023 Owners Manual/ User Guide
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Do’s and Don’ts
1. Always be aware of the up-and-down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention from the machine while it is running.
2. When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the main switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
3. When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machine must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.
4. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or the control or motor may burn out.
5. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb is 15 watts.
6. When using your sewing machine for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under the presser foot and run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which may have appeared.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I ESSENTIAL PART S
Names of Part s ........................................................................................... . 4~ 5
Foot Storage Compartment ............................................................................ . 6
Extension Table(Accessory Storage Box ) ...................................................... 7
SECTION II GETTING READY TO SE W
Connecting the Machine to the Power Suppl y ............................................... . 8
Foot Contro l .................................................................................................... . 9
Sewing Ligh t ................................................................................................... . 9
Pressure Dia l ................................................................................................ . 1 0
Dropping the Feed Dog s .............................................................................. . 1 0
T o Snap O n and Snap Off t he P re s er F oo t .................................................. . 1 1
To Detach and Attach the Foot Holde r ........................................................ . 1 2
Reverse Stitch Button.................................................................................... 13
Seam Guide Line ...........................................................................................13
Changing Needle ...........................................................................................14
Thread and Needle Chart ..............................................................................15
Winding the Bobbin .................................................................................16~18
Drawing Up Bobbin Threa d .......................................................................... . 20
B alan c ing Needle T h r ead T en s io n ............................................................... . 2 1
P a tt e r n S ele ct o r Dia l .................................................................................... . 2 2
Z ig z ag W id t h Con tr o l .................................................................................... . 2 2
St i tc h Leng t h Con tr o l .................................................................................... . 2 2
Variable Needle Positio n .............................................................................. . 2 2
SECCTION III BASIC SEWIN G
Straight Stitch Sewin g .................................................................................. . 2 3
Changing t he Sewing Direc t ion s .................................................................. . 2 4
Straight Stitching on Heavy Fabric s ............................................................. . 2 4
Zigzag Stitc h ................................................................................................. . 2 5
SECCTION IV UTILITY STITCHIN G
Overcastin g ................................................................................................... . 2 5
Overedge Stitc h ............................................................................................ . 2 6
Tricot Stitc h ................................................................................................... . 2 6
Tr iple Str eng t h St i t i c h .................................................................................... 2 7
O u t line Str et c h St i t i c h .................................................................................... 2 7
Sewing Button s ............................................................................................. . 2 8
Automatic Buttonhol e ............................................................................. . 29~3 1
M anual B u tt onhol e .................................................................................. . 32 ~ 3 3
Corded Buttonhol e ........................................................................................ . 3 4
Zipper Applicatio n ................................................................................... . 35~3 7
Rolled He m ............................................................................................. . 38~3 9
Blind S t i tc h Hemmin g .................................................................................... 40
SECCTION V DECORATIVE STITCHIN G
De c o r a t i v e S a t in St i tc h P a tt e r n s .................................................................. . 4 1
Stretch Stitch Pattern s .................................................................................. . 4 1
A dju st ing Str e tc h St i t c h Ba lan c e ................................................................... 4 2
Sm ock in g ...................................................................................................... . 4 2
Q uil t in g .......................................................................................................... . 4 3
Pin Tuckin g ................................................................................................... . 4 4
Shell Tuc k ..................................................................................................... . 4 5
Fagotin g ........................................................................................................ . 4 5
Appliqu e ........................................................................................................ . 4 6
Patch Wor k ................................................................................................... . 4 6
SECCTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHIN E
Cleaning the Bobbin Holde r ......................................................................... . 4 7
Cleaning the Hook Rac e .............................................................................. . 4 8
Inserting the Bobbin Holde r .......................................................................... . 4 8
Tr ouble S hoo t in g .................................................................................... . 49 ~ 50
Threading the Machine..................................................................................19
Finger guard ...................................................................................................12
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SECTION I ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts
w q
!3
!2
!4
!1
!0
o
i u y t
r
e
!5
!6
!7
!8
q Stitch length control w Zigzag width control e Bobbin winder stopper r Bobbin winder spindle t Foot storage compartment y Flip-top sewing instruction panel u Spool holder (large) i Spool pin o Top cover !0 Thread tension dial !1 Pressure dial !2 Face plate !3 Buttonhole lever !4 Thread cutter !5
Needle plate
!6
Hook cover plate
!7
Hook cover plate release button
!8
Extension table (Accessory storage box)
!9
Reverse stitch button
!9
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5
@4
@2
@3
@5
@7
@6
@8
@9
#0
#1
#2
@0 Thread take-up lever @1 Carrying handle @2 Handwheel @3 Clutch knob @4 Pattern selector dial @5 Feed balance dial @6 Power switch @7 Machine socket @8 Needle clamp screw @9 Drop feed lever #0 Free arm #1 Presser foot #2 Presser foot lifter
@1 @0
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q
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Foot
Storage Compartment
Each presser foot and pocket is lettered for easy identification and storage. To achieve optimum sewing results, use the foot recommended for each sewing technique.
* The automatic buttonhole foot can be stored in the
exte
nsion table.
Needle case L. Q
uilter G. Blind stitch hem foot D. Hemmer foot C. Overedge foot E. Zipper foot B. Transparent buttonhole foot A. Zigzag foot R. Automatic buttonhole foot
q w e r t y u i o
o
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Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)
Extension Table
The extension table provides added sewing surface and can be easily removed for free arm sewing.
For free arm sewing
Lift out the extension table, as illustrated .
For attaching the table
Position the two pins of the storage box on the base slit and push down gently.
Accessory storage box
Sewing accessoires are conveniently located under the extension table.
¡
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SECTION II GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
Before connecting the power, make sure the voltage and frequency of your electrical power conform to the machine.
Switch off the power, fit the nonreversible plug into the machine socket and plug the machine into the power supply.
Switch on the power.
Operating Instructions:
The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off" position of a switch.
For an appliance with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other): To r
educe the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
pola
rized outlet only one way.
If i
t does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit,
cont
act a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.
Do not modify the plug in any way.
The
foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with this sewing
mac
hine (USA market only).
Whil
e in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing area, and do not
touc
h any moving parts such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel
or needle.
Alwa
ys turn off the power switch and unplug from the power supply:
- wh
en leaving the machine unattended.
- wh
en attaching or removing parts.
- when cleaning the machine. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will run intermittently.
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Foot Control
The sewing light is located behind the face plate.
[To replace the bulb]
(A)• To remove.........Turn to the left.
•
To replace.........Turn to the right.
(B)• To remove.........Push and twist to
the left.
•
To replace.........Push and twist to
the right.
NOTE: When replacing the bulb, unplug
the machine.
Sewing Light
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control. The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine runs.
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Pressure Dial
The pressure dial should be set at “3” for regular sewing. Reduce the pressure to “2” for appliques.
Set the pressure to “1” when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other fine fabrics. Velours and knits with a lot of stretch may also require a “1” setting.
Dropping the Feed Dogs
Drop feed lever is located underneath of free arm bed.
To raise the feed dogs, push the lever to the direction of arrow as illustrated.
For dropping the feed dogs, push the lever to the direction of arrow as illustrated.
* Feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing.
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To Snap On and Snap Off the Presser Foot
To snap off
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position. Raise the presser foot.
Press the lever on the back of the foot holder. The presser foot will drop off.
When attaching the presser foot, the pressure dial should always be at position “3”. Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder. Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.
The presser foot can be raised higher for additional clearance.
To snap on Additional Clearance
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To Detach and Attach the Foot Holder
To Detach
Removethesetscrew byturningthescrew counter-clockwisewith thescrewdriver.
To Attach
Aligntheholeinthefoot holderwiththethreaded holeinthepresserbarand fitthefootholderscrewinto thehole.Tightenthescrew byturningitclockwise.
To Detach
Foryoursafety,themachineis equippedwiththefingerguard.

Raisethefoot. Loosenthefootholdersetscrew andremovethefingerguard. Tightenthesetscrew.
To Attach
Raisethefoot. Loosenthefootholdersetscrewand attachthefingerguardtothefoot holder.
Tightenthesetscrewlightlyandlower thefoot. Pushthefingerguarddowntothe
needleplateandtightenthesetscrew firmly.
Finger Guard
*
Fingerguardisnotillustrated onotherpages.

*
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15
20
5/8
6/8
Reverse Stitch Button
Aslongasyoukeepthereverse stitchbuttondepressed,the machinesewsbackwards.
Seam Guide Line
Thenumbersontheneedleplate indicatethedistancebetweentheleft needlepositionandtheline.
Thenumbersinthefrontindicatein millimeters.
Thenumbersinthebackindicatein inches.
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Changing Needle
Raisetheneedlebyturningthe handwheeltowardyouandlower thepresserfoot. Turnoffthepowerswitch.
Loosentheneedleclampscrewbyturningitcounter-clockwise.
Removetheneedlefromtheclamp.
Insertthenewneedleintotheneedleclampwiththeflatsideaway fromyou.
Wheninsertingtheneedleintotheclamp,pushitupasfarasitwill goandtightentheclampscrewfirmlywiththescrewdriver.
* Checkyourneedlesfrequentlyforbarbedorbluntedpoints.
Snagsandrunsinknits,finesilksandsilk-likefabricsare permanetandarealmostalwayscausedbyadamagedneedle.
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Thread and Needle Chart
Light weight
Medium weight
Heavy weight
Fabrics
CrepedeChine,Voile
Lawn,Organdy,Georgette,Tricot
Linens,Cotton,Pique,
SergeDoubleKnits,Percale
Denim,Tweed,Gabardine, Coating,DraperyandUpholsteryFabric
Threads
FineSilk
FineCotton FineSynthetic FineCottonCoveredPolyester
50silk
50to80Cotton
50to60Synthetic CottonCoveredPolyester
50silk
40to50Cotton
40to50Synthetic CottonCoveredPolyester
Needle Size
9
or
11
11
or
14
14
or
16
•
In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always test thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
•
Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
•
When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle. The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
•
When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.
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Winding the Bobbin
Horizontal Spool Pin
Ordinary Spool
Small Spool
Lift up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the spool with the thread coming off the spool as shown. Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool.
* The small spool holder is used with narrow or small thread spools.
Additional Spool Pin
The additional spool pin is used to wind extra bobbins without unthreading the machine. To use, insert the additional spool pin in the hole. Place the felt and the spool on the pin.
Removing the Bobbin
Gently slide the hook cover plate release button to the right, and remove the cover plate. Lift out the bobbin.
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Threading the Bobbin Winder
Pulltheclutchknobawayfromthemachineto disengagetheclutch.
Drawthethreadfromthespool.
Guidethethreadaroundthethreadguide.
Guidethethreadaroundthebobbinwinder threadguide.
Insertthethreadthroughtheholethebobbin, threadingfromtheinsidetotheoutside.
q
w
e
r
t
y
u
i
o
Putthebobbinonthebobbinwinderspindle,andpushittotheright.
Withthefreeendofthethreadheldinyourhand,depressthefootcontrol. Stopthemachinewhenithasmadeafewturns,andcutthethreadcloseto theholeinthebobbin.Depressthefootcontrolagain.Whenthebobbinis fullywound,itwillstopautomatically.
Returnthebobbinwindertoitsoriginalpositionbymovingthespindletothe left,andcutthethreadasshown.
Pushintheclutchknobtoengageclutch.
* Themachinewillnotsewuntilltheclutchknobispushedin.
iuy
r
t
w
q
o
e
e r
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Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running counter-clockwise.
Inserting the Bobbin
Guide the thread into the notch A on the front side of the bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left sliding it between the tension spring blades.
Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread slips into notch B.
Pull out about 15 cm (6˝) of thread and attach the hook cover plate.
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Threading the Machine
Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Raise the presser foot with the presser foot lifter and thread in the order from q to t.
Lead the thread from the spool and pass it through the thread guide. Then draw it down along the right slot.
Guide the thread around the bottom of the thread guide plate from right to left, then draw it upward.
e
Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever eye. Then guide it down along the left slot. Slide the thread from the left behind the needle bar therad guide.
Thread the needle.
trewq
q
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t
q
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t
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Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand.
Turn the handwheel slowly towards you with your right hand until the needle goes down and continue turning handwheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position. Lightly draw up the needle therad forming a loop of bobbin thread.
q w e Pull 15 cm (6˝) of both threads back and
under the presser foot.
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Balancing Needle Thread Tension
The needle thread and the bobbin thread should interlock in the center of two layers of fabric in straight seams.
Set the desired number of the thread tension dial at setting mark.
Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.
Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.
Thread Tension for Zigzag Sewing
To obtain better zigzag stitches, the needle thread tension should be slightly weaker than in the case of straight sewing. The needle thread should appear slightly on the reverse side of the fabric.
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Pattern Selector Dial
Select the pattern by turning the pattern selector dial and the red signal shows the selected pattern.
* Raise the needle above the
fabrics and presser foot when you turn the pattern selector dial.
Zigzag Width Control
Higher the number, wider the stitch width.
This machine will sew the maximum 6.5mm (0.25˝) wide zigzag.
* Raise the needle above the
fabrics when you set the stitch width.
Stitch Length Control
The higher the number, the longer the stitch length. You can select the suitable stitch length for fabrics that you plan to sew.
Note: Stitch length is automatically
set for stretch stitch pattern on pattern number 14 to 18.
Variable Needle Position
When pattern number 13 is selected, you can move the needle between center and left needle positions.
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Straight Stitch Sewing
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the fabric feed naturally.
For fastening the ends of seams, press the reverse stitch button and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing the threads to the back.
The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam.
Machine Setting
SECTION III BASIC SEWING
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Changing the Sewing Directions
Stop the machine and bring the needle down into the fabric by turning the handwheel. Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing direction as desired. Lower the presser foot.
Straight Stitching on Heavy Fabrics
Lower the needle info the fabric at the point where you wish to start sewing. Press the small black button on the zigzag foot with your left hand to “lock” the presser foot to the fabric.
Lower the presser foot with your right hand, keeping pressure on the black button with your left hand.
Release the black button and start sewing.
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SECTION IV UTILITY STITCHING
Zigzag Stitch
Simple zigzag stitch is widely used for overcasting, applique, sewing on buttons etc.
Overcasting
This type of stitch is used on the seam allowance to prevent fabrics from fraying at raw edges. It can be used to finish a hem edge. Place the edge of the fabric next to the black prong of foot C .
Machine Setting
Machine Setting
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Overedge Stitch
Place the edge of the fabric next to the black prong of foot. The wires on this foot prevent light weight fabric from rolling and creating a ridge. The black prong guides your sewing so the needle falls off the fabric wrapping the threads around the edge to stop raveling.
Tricot Stitch
Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presser foot. Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
Machine Setting
Machine Setting
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Triple Strength Stitch
This strong, durable stitch is recommended where both elasticity and strength are needed to insure comfort and durability.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams.
Also use when constructing items such as backpacks for extra strength.
The stitch is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward forming a seam that does not rip easily.
Garments should be basted for fitting before seaming.
Outline Stretch Stitch
Pattern 14 is a narrow stretch stitch designed to eliminate puckering on knit fabrics and bias seams, while permitting the seam to be pressed completely flat.
For a 1.5 cm (5/8˝) seams, use the 2 cm (6/8˝) marking on the needle plate.
When sewing light weight fabrics, set the pressure dial at “1” or “2”.
Machine Setting Machine Setting
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Sewing Buttons
Tape the button over the placement mark. A pin can be placed on top of the foot to from a shank. Before lowering the foot, test the needle swing making sure the needle drops in each hole. Adjust the stitch width if necessary. Lower the foot.
Align the both holes of button with the needle swing, lower the foot and depress the foot control.
To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8˝) tail. Bring the needle thread down through the hole in the button and wind it around the shank. Draw the thread to the wrong side of fabric and knot.
* When button sewing is finished, return the drop feed lever.
Machine Setting
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Automatic Buttonhole
* The size of buttonhole is
automatically set by placing the button in the automatic buttonhole foot (R).
* The button holder of the foot
takes a button size up to 2.5 cm (1˝) in diameter.
* Make a test buttonhole on a
sample duplicating the fabric, interfacing and seams of the actual garment.
* Place the button on the fabric
sample and mark the top and bottom to determine the position of buttonhole.
* Use the interfacing on the stretch
fabrics.
q Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest
position. Raise the presser foot lifter.
w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” by turning the pattern selector
dial.
e Attach the automatic buttonhole foot (R).
NOTE: There should be no gap between the slider and spring holder
of the foot as shown above.
(NOTE)
There should be no gap
Slider
Spring holder
q w
e
Machine Setting
Remove the finger guard before attaching the automatic buttonhole foot (R) (refer to page 12).
*
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r t y u i
o
o
Sew slowly and stop the machine at the
strating point when a buttonhole is completed.
* The machine sews front bartack and left row
first, then the back bartack and right row.
r Pull the button holder to the back, and
place the button in it. Push back the button holder toward you as far as it will go.
t Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far
as it will go.
y Insert the fabric under the foot.
Turn the handwheel one complete turn by your hand.
u Remove the fabric to the left to draw both
threads to the left.
i Insert the garment under the foot, and lower
the needle at the starting point. Then lower the automatic buttonhole foot.
Bottonhole lever
Starting point
Touch
Starting point
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!0 !1 !2 !3
!3 When buttonhole sewing is
finished, push the buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
!0 Cut the both needle and bobbin threads
leaving about 10 cm (4˝) thread ends. Draw the needle thread to wrong side of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. Then, knot the threads.
!1 Insert a pin inside the bartack.
Then cut the opening with a seam ripper. Take care not to cut the stitches.
!2 To repeat buttonhole sewing.
After a buttonhole is sewn, move the indicator to pattern “1” ( ) by turning the pattern selector dial in the direction of arrow 1, then return the indicator back to “BH” by turning the dial in the direction of arrow 2 to reset for sewing the next buttonhole.
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Machine Setting
q w e r t
Manual Buttonhole
r
Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far as it will go.
t Lower the needle info the garment where
the buttonhole is to start, and lower the foot.
* If the diameter of the button is
more than 2.5 cm (1˝), a buttonhole must be made manually as follows:
q Turn the handwheel toward you to raise
the needle to its highest position. Raise the presser foot lifter.
w Set the pattern indicator at “BH” by
turning the pattern selector dial.
e Attach the buttonhole foot (B).
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y u i
y
Sew the front bartack and left row, then stop the machine after sewing the desired total length of buttonhole.
u Pull the buttonhole lever toward you.
i Sew the back bartack and right row, then
stop the machine at the starting point. * To cut the opening and to reset for
sewing the next buttonhole, refer to the instructions on page 31.
Starting point
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Machine Settin g
q w e r t y u i
* Set the stitch width i n
accordance with the thickness o f the cord used .
* To cut the opening and to rese t
for sewing the next buttonhole , refer to the instructions on pag e
31.
q With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on the cord spur at the back of the buttonhole foot . w Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole foot until they clear the front end . e Hook the filler cord info the forks on the front of the R foot to hold them tight . r Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot . t Depress the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole .
Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be sewn over the cord .
y Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing threads . u Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it . i Thread the end through a darning needle, draw to the bottom side of the fabric and cut .
Corded Buttonhole
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Machine Setting
Zipper Application
Fabric Preparation:
Place right sides of fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening.
Reverse stitch to knot the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with a basting stitch.
q To sew the left side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot to
the pin on the right hand side.
w To sew the right side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot
to the pin on the left hand side.
q
w
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Sew through fold and zipper tape. Stop just before the zipper foot reaches the slider on the zipper tape.
Turn the handwheel by hand and lower the needle info the fabric. Raise the zipper foot and open the zipper. Lower the foot and sitich the remainder of the seam.
To Sew:
Fold back the left seam allowance.
Turn under the right seam allowance to from a 0.2 to 0.3 cm (1/8˝) fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to the fold and pin in place.
Attach the zipper foot with the pin on the right hand side. Lower the zipper foot.
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Close the zipper and spread the fabric flat with the right side facing up.
Move the zipper foot to the left pin. Guide the edge of the foot along the zipper teeth and stitch through garment and zipper tape. Stop about 5 cm (2˝) from the top of the zipper.
With the needle down in the fabric, raise the foot, remove the basting stitches and open the zipper. Then lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam making sure the fold is even.
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Machine Setting
Make a double 0.25 cm (1/8˝) fold approximately 8 cm (3˝) in length.
Rolled Hem
Lower the needle into the fabric and lift the hemmer foot. Insert the folded portion of the fabric into the curl of the hemmer foot.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the point where sewing is to begin, then lower the hemmer foot.
Sew 3 or 4 stitches while pulling the needle and bobbin threads.
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Lower the hemmer foot, then sew by lifting up the edge of the fabric to keep it feeding smoothly and evenly.
Trim about 0.7 cm(1/4˝) from corners as illustrated, to reduce bulk.
0.7 cm (1/4˝)
0.7 cm (1/
4˝)
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Machine Setting
Blind Stitch Hemming
Turn the guide screw and move the sliding guide next to the folded edge. Sew guiding the folded edge along the sliding guide.
On lightweight fabrics the raw edge can be turned under and pressed. On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first.
Fold up the hem the desired amount and pin in place.
Then fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated.
Position the fabric on the machine so that the needle just pierces the folded part of the fabric when the needle comes over to the extreme left side.
Lower the presser foot.
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Machine Setting Machine Setting
Stitch length of the automatic patterns (No.14 to 23) are preset, so you do not
need to select the stitch length for these patterns.
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns
SECTION V DECORATIVE STITCHING
Stretch Stitch Patterns
Sew a row of stitches and adjust the thread tension so the needle thread should appear on the reverse side of the fabric. Test the stitch on the actual fabric for the best results.
3〜6.5
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Machine Setting
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance Smocking
If patterns are uneven when sewing with a particular fabric, adjust them with the feed balance dial.
* After sewing with an altered
dial setting, you must reset the dial to “ ”.
When patterns are compressed, correct by turning the dial in the direction of “ + ”.
With the stitch length control at “4”, sew straight lines 1 cm(3/8˝) apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along the ege. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute gathers evenly. Sew pattern stitches between the straight seams. Pull out the gathering stitches.
When patterns are drawn out, correct by turning the dial in the direction of “ – ”.
1 cm (3/8˝)
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Machine Setting
Quilting
The quiliting guide will help to keep the stitchintg lines straight. Insert the quilter in the opening, and slide it at the desired width.
Sew guiding the quilter over the previous row of stitching.
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Machine Setting
Pin Tucking
Fold the fabric with wrong sides together on the foldline.
Sew guiding the folded edge along
the sliding guide.
Press the pin tucks to one side.
Position the fabric so that the needle pierces 0.1 to 0.2 cm (1/16˝) inside of folded part and lower the presser foot.
Turn the guide screw and move the sliding guide next to the folded edge.
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Machine Setting Machine Setting
Shell Tuck
Place the folded edge along the slot of foot. The needle should fall off the edge of the fabric on the right forming a tuck.
Fold under 1.5cm (1/12˝) on each fabric edge and press. Pin the two edges to paper 0.3cm (1/8˝) apart.
Sew slowly guiding the fabric so the needle catches the folded edge on each side.
Peel off the paper from the wrong side of the fabric.
Fagoting
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Machine Setting
Machine Setting
Applique
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left.
* When applique sewing is
finished, return the pressure dial to 3.
Patch Work
Sew seam and press seam allowance open. Sew pattern stitch on the right side of garment centering stitches over the seam line.
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SECTION VI CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Holder
The bobbin area and hook race should be cleaned after completion of every garment. Do not store the machine in an area of high humidity, near a radiator or in direct sunlight. Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and neutral soap. Raise the needle and unplug the machine before cleaning.
Turn off the power switch or unplug the machine.
Remove the cover plate by sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right.
Take out the bobbin. Brush out dust and lint or you may use a vacuum cleaner.
Insert the bobbin Attach the hook cover plate.
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Clean the feed dogs, hook race and bobbin holder with the lint brush and a soft dry cloth.
Take out the bobbin. Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.
Unplug the machine and remove the presser foot and needle. Remove the screw on the left hand side of the needle plate with the screwdriver. Remove the needle plate.
Cleaning the Hook Race Inserting the Bobbin Holder
Line up the triangle marks and position the bobbin holder so the notch fits next to the stopper in the hook race.
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Trouble Shootin g
Conditio n
The machine does no t run smoothly and i s noisy .
The needle threa d b reaks .
The bobbin threa d b reaks .
The needle breaks .
Skipped stitches .
Ca u s e
1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanism .
2. The feed dog is packed with lint .
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly .
2. The needle thread tension is too tight .
3. The needle is bent or blunt .
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted .
5. The fabric is not being drawn to the rear when sewing is finished .
6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle .
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holder .
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder .
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly .
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted .
2. The needle is bent or blunt .
3. The needle clamp screw is loose .
4. The tension of the needle thread is too tight .
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished .
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn .
7. The pattern selector dial has been turned while the needle was in the material .
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted .
2. The needle is bent or blunt .
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn . 4 . A B LU E TIPPE D
needle i s no t being u s ed f o r s ewing str e tc h , v e ry f ine f ab r i cs and sy n t he t i cs .
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly .
6. The presser foot pressure is not strong enough .
Referenc e
See Pages 47 and 4 8 See Page 4 8
See Page 1 9 See Page 2 1 See Page 1 4 See Page 1 4 See Page 2 3 See Page 1 5
See Page 1 8 See Page 4 7 Exchange bobbin .
See Page 1 4 See Page 1 4 See Page 4 See Page 2 1 See Page 2 3 See Page 1 5 See Page 2 2
See Page 1 4 See Page 1 4 See Page 15 See Page 1 5 See Page 1 9 See Page 1 0
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Conditio n
Seam Puckering .
Stitches form loop s below the work .
The cloth is no t feeding smoothly .
The machine does no t wo rk .
The buttonhol e stitches are no t balanced .
Ca u s e
1. The needle thread tension is too tight .
2. The needle thread is not threaded correctly .
3. The needle is too heavy for the cloth being sewn .
4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn .
5. The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted . * When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet of paper underneath the fabric .
1. The needle thread tension is too loose .
2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread .
1. The feed dog is packed with lint .
2. The presser foot pressure is too weak .
3. The stitches are too fine .
4. The feed dog is not raised after “ Drop fee d ” has been used .
1. The machine is not plugged in .
2. A thread is caught in the hook race .
3. Clutch knob is pulled away for the bobbin winding .
4. Bobbin winder spindle is in the winding position .
1. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn .
2. The work is being pulled or held back .
3. Interfacing is not used with stretch fine fabrics .
Referenc e
See Page 2 1 See Page 1 9 See Page 1 5 Make the stitche s denser . See Page 1 0
See Page 2 1 See Page 1 5
See Page 4 8 See Page 1 0 Make the stitche s c oa rs e r . See Page 1 0
See Page 8 See Page 4 8 See Page 1 7 See Page 1 7
See Page 29,32 and 3 4 Do not force the fabri c for guiding . See Page 2 9
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