Instruction book
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the
following:
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
DANGER
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing
machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
WARNING
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used
by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner’s manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner’s manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if
it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this
sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle and/or cutting blade.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and
the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner’s manual.
—
—
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
For Europe only:
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.
For outside Europe (except U.S.A and Canada):
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or
mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this appliance.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National
legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
(European Union only)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I. ESSENTIAL PARTS
Name of Parts ..................................................... 2
Extension Table ................................................... 3
Free Arm Sewing ................................................. 3
Standard Accessories ......................................... 3
Accessories Storage Box ....................................3
SECTION II. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply ..... 4
Controlling Sewing Speed ................................... 4
Presser Foot Lifter ............................................... 5
Changing Presser Foot ....................................... 5
To Attach and Remove the Foot Holder .............. 5
Changing Needles ............................................... 6
To check the needle ............................................. 6
Thread and Needle Chart .................................... 6
Setting Spool Pins ............................................... 7
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case .............. 7
Winding the Bobbin ............................................. 8
Threading Bobbin Case ....................................... 8
Threading the Machine ........................................ 9
Needle Threader .................................................. 9
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread ............................... 10
Thread Tension Dial ........................................... 10
Stitch Selector Dial ............................................ 11
Stitch Length Dial .............................................. 11
Stitch Width Dial ................................................ 11
Reverse Stitch Button ........................................ 12
Darning Plate ..................................................... 12
Rick-rack Stretch ...............................................17
Sewing Buttons ..................................................18
Automatic Buttonhole ..................................19−20
Corded Buttonhole ............................................. 21
Zipper Application .............................................. 22
Blind Hem Stitch ................................................ 22
SECTION V. DECORATIVE STITCHING
Shell Tuck .......................................................... 23
Smocking ........................................................... 23
Box Stitch ..........................................................24
Applique ............................................................. 24
Decorative Stitch ...............................................25
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns ........................ 25
Stretch Stitch Patterns ....................................... 26
SECTION VI. MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Hook .......... 26
Dismantling Shuttle Race Unit .......................... 26
Assembling Shuttle Race Unit ........................... 26
Cleaning the Feed Dog ......................................27
Sewing Light ...................................................... 27
Troubleshooting ................................................. 28
SECTION III. BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing .......................................13
Changing Sewing Direction ...............................13
Seam Guide Lines ............................................. 14
Turning a Square Corner ................................... 14
Variable Needle Position ....................................14
Zigzag Stitching ................................................. 15
SECTION IV. UTILITY STITCHING
Overcasting .......................................................15
Tricot Stitch ........................................................ 16
Knit Stitch .......................................................... 16
Straight Stretch .................................................. 17
1
@3
o
!0
!1
!2
!3
!4
@1
!5
!7
i
u
@0
!8
!9
@2
y
t
r
@8
e
w
q
!6
@7
SECTION I. ESSENTIAL PARTS
Name of Parts
Pattern selector dial
q
Stitch length dial
w
Stitch width dial
e
Bobbin winder stopper
r
Bobbin winder spindle
t
Spool pins
y
Bobbin winder thread guide
u
Thread guide
i
Thread take-up lever
o
Thread tension dial
!0
Face cover
!1
Thread cutter
!2
Needle threader
!3
Needle plate
!4
Extension table
!5
Reverse stitch button
!6
Presser foot holder
!7
Needle clamp
!8
Needle
!9
Presser foot
@0
Lever
@1
Carrying handle
@2
Handwheel
@3
Power switch
@4
Machine socket
@5
Free arm
@6
Buttonhole lever
@7
Presser foot lifter
@8
Foot control
@9
@4
@6
@5
NOTE:
To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying
handle with your hand, and support the sewing
machine with the other hand.
NOTE:
Sewing machine design and specifications are
subject to change without prior notice.
@9
2
Extension Table
The extension table provides added sewing
surface and can be easily removed for free arm
sewing.
Detaching the table:
Pull the table away from the machine.
Free Arm Sewing
Avoid fabric bunching around the needle when
bartacking to reinforce pockets, plackets and
waistlines.
For stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or
any circular garment area.
For darning socks or mending knees, elbows or
areas of wear in children's clothes.
e
q
u
t
w
r
y
Standard Accessories
Bobbins
q
Seam ripper/ Buttonhole opener
w
Needle set
e
Automatic buttonhole foot
r
Blind hem foot
t
Zipper foot
y
Darning plate
u
Accessories Storage Box
Sewing accessories are conveniently located in
the extension table.
q Accessories storage box
q
3
r
t
w
q
e
SECTION II. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
z Turn off the power switch.
x Insert the machine plug into the machine
socket.
c Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
v Turn on the power switch to turn on the power
and sewing light.
q Power supply plug
w Power switch
e Outlet
r Machine socket
t Machine plug
CAUTION:
Before connecting the power cord, make
sure the voltage and frequency shown on the
machine conform to your electrical power.
NOTE:
While in operation, always keep your eyes
on the sewing area, and do not touch any
moving parts such as the thread take-up lever,
handwheel or needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug
from the power supply:
– when leaving the machine unattended.
– when attaching or removing parts.
– when cleaning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control,
otherwise the machine will run inadvertently.
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster
the machine runs.
CAUTION:
Do not place anything on the foot control,
otherwise the machine will start advertently.
Operating Instructions
(for the U.S.A and Canada only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To reduce the risk of an
electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does
not fit in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does
not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Foot Controller Model YC-482J-EC or TJC-150
is used with this machine.
4
q
e
w
q
Presser Foot Lifter
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 0.6 cm (1/4˝) higher than
the normal up position for easy removal of the
presser foot or to help you to place heavy fabric
under the foot.
q Lowest position
w Normal up position
e Highest position
Changing Presser Foot
q Lever
w Groove
e Pin
CAUTION:
When attaching or removing presser foot, turn
OFF the power switch.
•Toremove
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the
needle bar to its highest position.
Raise the presser foot.
Press the lever q on the back of the foot holder.
q
w
w
q
e
e
•Toattach
Place the presser foot so that the pin e on the
foot lines up directly below the groove
w of the
foot holder. Lower the foot holder to lock the foot
in place.
To Attach and Remove the Foot Holder
q Setscrew
w Foot holder
e Presser bar
•Toremove
Remove the thumb setscrew q by turning it
counterclockwise with a screwdriver.
•Toattach
Match the hole in the foot holder w with the
threaded hole in the presser bar e. Fit the
thumb screw q into the hole. Tighten the screw
q by turning it clockwise with screwdriver.
5
Changing Needles
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward
you and lower the presser foot.
z Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
x Insert the new needle into the clamp with the
flat side away from you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push
it up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp
screw firmly with the screwdriver.
To check the needle
Place the flat side of the needle on something flat
(needle plate, glass etc.). The clearance between
the needle and flat surface should be consistent.
Never use a bent or blunt needle.
Thread and Needle Chart
* In general, fine threads and needles are used
for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads and
needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics.
* Always test thread and needle size on a small
piece of the fabric which will be used for actual
sewing.
* Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
* When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and
synthetics,use a BLUE TIPPED needle.
The blue tipped needle effectively prevents
skipped stitches.
Light
weight
Medium
weight
Heavy
weight
6
Fabrics Thread
Crepe de Chine, Voile, Fine Silk 9
Lawn, Organdy, Fine Cotton or
Georgette,
Tricot Fine Cotton
Covered
Polyester
Linens, Cotton, Piqué, 50 silk 11
Serge, Double Knits,
Percale 50 to 60
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Denim, Tweed, 50 silk 14
Gabardine, or
Suiting, Drapery and 40 to 50 Cotton 16
Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Fine Synthetic 11
50 to 80 Cotton or
Needle Size
14
q
Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of
thread in order to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for
storage.
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case
Open the hook cover.
q Hook cover
e
w
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward
you. Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.
Latch
w
When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn
into the recess of the hook race.
e Horn
7
z
b
x
v
n
c
Winding the Bobbin
Pull the handwheel out.
z
Draw the thread from the spool.
x
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder
thread guide.
Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin
c
from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
Push it to the right.
v
With the free end of the thread held in your
b
hand, depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when it has made a few
turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in
the bobbin.
Depress the foot control again.
n
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the
machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original
position by moving the spindle to the left, and
cut the thread.
Push the handwheel back into the original
m
position.
z
x
c
m
NOTE:
Return the bobbin winder spindle to the left
when the bobbin winding is finished.
Threading Bobbin Case
Place the bobbin into the bobbin case.
z
Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction
of arrow.
Pull the thread into the bobbin case slot.
x
Draw the thread under the tension spring and
c
into the delivery eye.
* Leave about 10 cm (4˝) of free thread.
8
c
z
Threading the Machine
Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with
thread coming from back of the spool.
z
z
v
b
c
x
v
x
b
Draw the thread into thread guide using both
z
hands.
While holding the thread near spool, draw
x
thread down into the tension area and then
around the check spring holder.
Firmly draw the thread up and through the
c
take–up lever from right to left.
Then draw the thread down and slip it into
v
needle bar thread guide on the left.
Thread the needle eye from front to back.
b
NOTE:
You may want to cut the thread end with sharp
scissors for easier needle threading.
Needle Threader
z Raise the needle to its highest position.
Pull down the needle threader knob as far as it
will go.
x
c
x Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in
the illustration, then insert Hook into the needle
eye.
Lead the thread around Guide and under hook.
c Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in
the illustration, drawing the thread loop through
the needle.
v Pull the thread through the needle eye.
* The needle threader can be used with a #11 to
#16 needle or a Janome Blue tipped needle.
Thread size 50 to 100 should also work well.
9
z
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
z Raise the presser foot and hold the needle
thread lightly with your left hand.
x
c
q
w
e
r
y
t
x Turn the handwheel slowly toward you with
your right hand until the needle goes down and
continue turning the handwheel until the takeup lever is at its highest position.
Lightly draw up the needle thread forming a
loop of the bobbin thread.
c Pull 10 cm (6˝) of both threads back and under
the presser foot.
Thread Tension Dial
• Correcttension
The thread tension is adjusted depending
on the sewing materials, layers of fabric and
sewing method.
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread
does not show on the right side (top side) of
the fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly
on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.
q Needle thread (Top thread)
w Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
e Right side (Top side) of fabric
r Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
t Thread tension dial
y Setting mark
• Needlethreadtensionistootight
When the bobbin thread (bottom thread)
appears on the right side (top side) of the
fabric, loosen the needle thread tension by
moving the dial to a lower number.
• Needlethreadtensionistooloose
When the needle thread (top thread) appears
on the wrong side (bottom side) of the
fabric, tighten the needle thread tension by
moving the dial to a higher number.
10
q
Stitch Selector Dial
Turn the stitch selector dial to set the setting mark
with the symbol corresponding to the desired
pattern.
Setting mark
q
CAUTION
To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure
the needle is up and out of the fabric while
selecting a stitch.
q
+ –
2
3
1
4
5
0
S.S.
Stitch Length Dial
Turn the stitch length dial to set the setting mark
with the desired stitch length.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch
length.
Setting mark
q
•Adjustthedialinthe0.5–4rangewhenyou
sew the zigzag stitch.
•Setthedialat“S.S.”tosewthestretchstitch
pattern sewing.
•Ifthestretchstitchpatternisuneven,turn
thestitchlengthdialinthedirectionof“–”to
compressit,or“+”toexpandit.
Stitch Width Dial
Turn the stitch width dial to set the width at the
setting mark.
The higher the number, the wider the stitch width.
Setting mark
q
NOTE:
Raise the needle above the fabric when turning
the stitch width dial.
11
Reverse Stitch Button
As long as you keep the reverse stitch button
depressed, the machine will sew in reverse.
Darning Plate
Position the darning plate with 3 pins on the bottom.
Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate
holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning
plate holes.
12
q
AACDEFGH IJKL
w e
r
t
SECTION III. BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing
Pattern selector: A/B
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 2–6
e
Stitch length: 1.5–4
5
4
3
2
1
0
r
Stitch width: (0) or (5)
t
z Raise the presser foot and position the fabric
with its edge lining up with a seam guide line
on the needle plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads
toward the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line
letting the fabric feed by itself.
x For fastening the end of seams, press the
reverse stitch lever and sew several reverse
stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric,
drawing the threads to the back.
q
c Cut the threads with the thread cutter q.
The threads are now the proper length to begin
sewing the next seam.
Changing Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward
you to bring the needle down into the fabric. Raise
the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change
sewing direction as desired.
Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
13
Seam Guide Lines
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the
distance between the center needle position and
the guideline.
The numbers in front are centimeters.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.
q w
e
Number 15 20 4/8 5/8 6/8
Distance (cm) 1.5 2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9
q Center needle position
w Guide lines
e Numbers
Turning a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8” (1.6 cm) from the
fabric edge.
Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the
handwheel counterclockwise.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line
the edge with the 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the
new direction.
Line up the fabric edge facing you with the
cornering guide shown.
q
Cornering guide
q
Variable Needle Position
Turn the stitch width dial to move the needle
between the center and left needle position when
0
1
2
3
4
5
the straight stitch is selected.
14
q
w e
r t
Zigzag Stitching
q Pattern selector: C
w Presser foot: Zigzag foot
e Thread tension: 2–5
r Stitch length: 0.5–4
5
4
3
2
1
0
t Stitch width: 1–5
Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for
overcasting, sewing on buttons, etc.
q
w e
r t
SECTION IV. UTILITY STITCHING
Overcasting
q Pattern selector: C
w Presser foot: Zigzag foot
e Thread tension: 1–4
5
4
3
2
1
0
r Stitch length: 1–2
t Stitch width: 5
The zigzag stitch is used on the seam allowance
to prevent fabric from fraying at raw edges.
15
q
w e
r t
Tricot Stitch
Pattern selector: D
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: 0.5-1.5
r
5
4
3
2
1
0
t Stitch width: 5
This stitch is used to finish the raw edge on synthetics and other fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
q
w e
r t
Knit Stitch
Pattern selector: G
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: S.S.
r
t Stitch width: 5
5
4
3
2
1
0
This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and
stretch velour because it provides the greatest
amount of elasticity and strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
16
q
w e
r t
Straight Stretch
Pattern selector: A/B
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 2–6
e
Stitch length: S.S
r
Stitch width: (0) or (5)
5
4
3
2
1
0
t
This strong, durable stitch is recommended where
both elasticity and strength are necessary to
ensure comfort and durability.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and
armhole seams as well as to eliminate puckering
on knits and stretch fabrics. Also use when
constructing items requiring extra strength such
as backpacks.
q
w e
r t
Rick-rack Stretch
Pattern selector: C
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 2–6
e
Stitch length: S.S.
r
t Stitch width: 5
5
4
3
2
1
0
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might
use a zigzag stitch. This stitch is also used as a
decorative topstitch.
17
q
y
w e
r t
Sewing Buttons
Pattern selector: C
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 3–7
e
Stitch length: Any
r
Stitch width: Adjust as necessary
t
Darning plate
5
4
3
2
1
0
y
Attach the darning plate. Match the holes in the
button with the horizontal slot on the presser foot.
Adjust the stitch width matching the distance of
the holes in the button. Lower the foot to hold the
button in place. Check to see if the needle enters
into the holes in the button by turning the handwheel by hand. Sew about ten (10) stitches.
To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving about 4.0˝ (10.0 cm). Bring the needle thread
down through one of the holes in the button and
wind it around the shank. Bring the needle thread
to the wrong side (bottom side) and knot.
After button sewing is completed, remove the
darning plate.
18
z
x
c
v
q
r
t
(A)
e
w
r t
q
(B)
e
5
w
Automatic Buttonhole
Pattern selector: (BH)
q
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole
w
foot
Thread tension: 1–5
e
Stitch length:
r
Stitch width: 3–5
4
3
2
1
0
u
o
t
* The size of buttonhole is automatically set by
placing the button in the rear of the automatic
buttonhole foot R.
* The button holder of the foot takes a button
size up to 2.5 cm (1˝) in diameter.
* Make a test buttonhole on a sample
duplicating the fabric, interfacing and seams
of the actual garment.
* Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.
z Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you. Raise the presser foot lifter.
Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R.
q Groove
w Pin
x Pull the button holder to the back (A), and
place the button in it.
Push back the button holder toward you (B) as
far as it will go.
e Button holder
* If the button is extremely thick, make a test
buttonhole. If it is difficult to fit the button through
the test buttonhole, lengthen the buttonhole by
pulling the button holder back to create a gap.
r Gap
c Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far as it
will go.
t Buttonhole lever
v Insert the fabric under the foot. Turn the
handwheel toward you one rotation and
remove the fabric to the left. Insert the
garment under the foot, and lower the needle
at the starting point. Then lower the automatic
buttonhole foot R.
y Starting point
NOTE:
Make sure there is no gap between the slider
i
and spring holder, otherwise the left and right
length will be different.
y
!0
u Slider
i Spring holder
o There should be no gap
! 0 Sewing gap.
19
b
n m
,
!2
!1
!3
b Depress the foot control to sew a buttonhole.
The machine will sew the front bartack, left
row, back bartack and right row automatically.
Stop the machine at the ending point.
! 1 Ending point
n Raise the presser foot and cut the both needle
and bobbin threads leaving 10 cm (4˝) thread
ends.
Draw the needle thread to wrong side of the
fabric by pulling the bobbin thread.
Then, knot the threads.
m Remove the fabric and place a pin just before
the bartack at each end to prevent cutting
bartacks. Cut the opening with the seam
ripper.
! 2 Pin
! 3 Seam ripper
•Torepeatbuttonholesewing
, To repeat buttonhole sewing, turn the stitch
selector to , then back to again, as
shown.
Now, simply step on the foot control to sew
an identical buttonhole.
.
!4
. When the buttonhole sewing is finished,
push the buttonhole lever upward as far as
it will go.
! 4 Buttonhole lever
•Adjustingbuttonholestitchdensity
Turn the stitch length dial to the right for a
coarser density.
Turn the stitch length dial to the left for a tighter
dens i t y.
1
0
2
3
4
20
q
w
r t
e
5
Corded Buttonhole
Pattern selector: (BH)
q
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole
w
foot
Thread tension: 1–5
e
Stitch length:
r
Stitch width: 3–5
4
3
2
1
0
t
z
x
q
w
z With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the
filler cord on the cord spur at the back of the
buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the
buttonhole foot until they clear the front end.
Hook the filler cord into the fork on the front of
the buttonhole foot to hold them tight.
q Spur
w Forks
x Lower the needle into the garment where the
buttonhole will start and lower the foot.
Depress the foot control gently and sew the
buttonhole.
Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks
will be sewn over the cord.
* The sewing steps are the same as the
automatic buttonhole sewing.
c
c Remove the fabric from the machine and cut
the sewing threads.
Pull the left end through a darning needle,
draw to the bottom side of the fabric and cut.
21
q w e
r t
Zipper Application
Pattern selector: A/B
q
Presser foot: Zipper foot
w
Thread tension: 3–6
e
Stitch length: 1.5-4
r
Stitch width: 5
5
4
3
2
1
0
t
Pin or baste zipper tape to fabric and place it
under the foot.
Smooth the threads toward the back and lower
the foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, guide the zipper
teeth along the edge of the foot and stitch through
the garment and zipper tape.
Turn the fabric and sew the other side of the
zipper in the same way as you did the left side.
[A]
q
w
r t
w
[B]
q
e
r
t
eq
5
4
3
2
1
0
Blind Hem Stitch
Pattern selector: E or F
q
Presser foot: Blind hem foot
w
Thread tension: 2–4
e
Stitch length: 1–3
r
Stitch width: 5
t
z On heavyweight fabrics that ravel, the raw
edge should be overcast first. Then fold the
w
hem, as illustrated, leaving 1/4˝ (0.7 cm) of the
hem edge showing.
q Wrong side of the fabric
w 1/4˝ (0.7 cm)
[A] Heavy weight fabrics
[B] Fine or medium weight fabrics
x Position the fabric, so that the needle at its
leftmost position just pierces the edge of the
fold.
c Turn the guide screw to adjust the guide
aligning with the folded edge.
Sew along the folded edge guiding the fabric
so the needle catches the folded edge.
e Guide screw
r Guide
t Folded edge
v After hemming is completed, press together
both sides of the finished hem. The top side of
the fabric should show only the blind stitches.
22
q
w
r t
e
SECTION V. DECORATIVE STITCHING
Shell Tuck
q Pattern selector: G
w Presser foot: Zigzag foot
e Thread tension: 6–8
r Stitch length: 2–3
5
4
3
2
1
0
Stitch width: 5
t
Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example).
Fold and stitch on the bias.
When the needle swings to the right, allow the
needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric.
After stitching, open the fabric and iron press
the tucks flat to one side.
NOTE:
Increase the needle thread tension to form
prominent tucks.
q w e
r t
q
Smocking
Pattern selector: A/B and D
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: S.S.
r
Stitch width: 5
5
4
3
2
1
0
t
Withthestitchlengthat“4”,sewstraightstitching
lines 1 cm (3/8˝) apart, across the area to be
smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin
threads and distribute the gathers evenly.
Secure the threads at the other end.
Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering
stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
q 3/8˝ (1 cm)
23
q
H
w e
r t
Box Stitch
Pattern selector: H
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: 0.5–2
r
Stitch width: 5
t
5
4
3
2
1
0
Use this stitch to join heavy weight fabrics.
Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch
to join them.
q
w e
r t
Applique
Pattern selector: C
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: 0.5–1
r
Stitch width: 5
t
5
4
3
2
1
0
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique
pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making sure the needle
falls along the outer edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the needle down into
the fabric.
Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the
right or left.
24
q
w e
r t
Decorative Stitch
Pattern selector: I
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: 2−3
r
Stitch width: 5
5
4
3
2
1
0
t
For a delicate appearance on fabric such as chiffon, use a single layer with a tear-away backing, if
necessary.
q
w e
r t
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns
Pattern selector: J–L
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 1–4
e
Stitch length: 0.5-1
r
Stitch width: 3−5
5
4
3
2
1
0
t
Satin stitches are used as decorative stitches on
table linen etc.
Test sew if you reduce the stitch length to ensure
smooth feed of the fabric.
25
q
w e
r t
Stretch Stitch Patterns
Pattern selector: A/B–L
q
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
w
Thread tension: 3–6
5
4
3
2
e
Stitch length: S.S.
r
1
0
Stitch width: 3−5
t
If forward and reverse feeds become unbalanced
due to the type of fabric, adjust the balance by turning the stitch length dial as follows:
Ifpatternsarecompressed,turnthedialtoward“+”.
Ifpatternsaredrawn,turnthedialtoward“–”.
(See page 11)
SECTION VI.
MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Hook
WARNING:
•Turnthepowerswitchoffand/orunplugthe
machine before dismantle or cleaning the
machine.
•Donotdismantlethemachineotherthanas
explained in this section.
u
t
r
q
e
y
w
CAUTION:
Do not store the machine in a high-humidity
area, near a heat radiator, or in direct sunlight.
Dismantling Shuttle Race Unit
Raise the needle to its highest position and open
the hook cover. Open the hinged latch of bobbin
case and take it out of the machine.
Open the hook race ring holders and remove the
shuttle race ring. Remove the hook.
* Clean the hook race with a brush and a soft dry
cloth.
Bobbin case
q
Shuttle race ring holder
w
Shuttle race ring
e
Shuttle
r
Shuttle race
t
Assembling Shuttle Race Unit
Hold the shuttle by the center pin and fit it carefully
back into the shuttle race, forming a perfect circle
with the shuttle driver.
Attach the shuttle race ring making sure the
bottom pin fits into the notch.
Lock the shuttle race ring by turning the holders
back into position. Insert the bobbin case.
y Pin
u Notch
26
q
Cleaning the Feed Dog
CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the
machine before cleaning the feed dog.
Remove the needle and the presser foot.
Remove the needle plate setscrew and remove
the needle plate.
Setscrew
q
With a brush, clean out any dust and lint clogging
the feed dog teeth.
Reset the needle plate.
Sewing Light
The sewing light is located behind the face
cover.
To change the bulb, take the face cover off the
sewing machine by removing the cap and setscrew.
Unplug the power supply before changing the
bulb.
Do not dismantle the machine other than explained in this manual.
To remove ..... Push and twist to the left.
To replace ..... Push and twist to the right.
The bulb may be HOT. Protect your
fingers when handling it.
27
WARNING
Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Reference
The needle thread
breaks.
The bobbin thread
breaks.
The needle breaks.
Skipped stitches
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not set properly
under the presser foot at the beginning of sewing.
6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has
finished.
7. The thread is too heavy or too fine for the needle.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin
case and shuttle.
2. Lint has collected in the shuttle area.
3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn't turn smoothly.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The needle thread tension is too tight.
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when the sewing has
finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being
sewn.
4. A blue tipped needle is not being used for sewing stretch,
very fine fabrics and synthetics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
6. The wrong needle is being used.
Page 9
Page 10
Page 6
Page 6
Page 13
Page 13
Page 6
Page 8
Page 26
Change the bobbin
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 10
Page 13
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 9
Change the needle
Seam puckering
The cloth is not feeding smoothly.
The machine doesn’t
work.
Noisy operation
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. The stitches are too fine.
1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. A thread is caught in the shuttle race.
3. The clutch is disengaged.
1. There is thread caught in the shuttle race.
2. Lint has built up in the shuttle or the shuttle race.
28
Page 10
Page 9
Page 6
Make stitch denser
Page 27
Make stitch coarser
Page 4
Page 26
Page 8
Page 26
Page 26
305-800-138(ENG)
Loading...