Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Radio:4-channel minimum with 4–5 servos
and standard receiver
Engine:.46-.55 cu in [7.5–9cc] two-stroke,
.70-.81 cu in [11.5–13.5cc] four-stroke,
RimFire
™
.46 (42-60-800) brushless
outrunner motor
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim, send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
Congratulations on your purchase of the Great Planes
Shoestring .46 ARF! This beautiful, fi berglass fuselage
model follows on the success of Great Planes’ larger,
.60-sized version. Much of the typical ARF building work has
been completed at the factory, leaving only the fi nal steps
needed to get you airborne quickly. Even a pilot comes
already installed!
You‘ll enjoy sport performance with a .46-size engine, or
experience scale-like speeds that recall the Cleveland Air
Races with a .55. Accommodations have also been made
for installing a brushless power system. A magnetic canopy
hatch makes radio access and battery changes a breeze!
The two-piece wing with a lightweight, carbon wing tube
allows for easy transport.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Shoestring .46 ARF visit the Great Planes web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the
Shoestring .46 ARF. If there is new technical information or
changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the
upper left corner of the page.
AMA
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join!
The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and
membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects
modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fl y at most
R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
2
Page 3
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
1. Your Shoestring .46 ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Shoestring, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Shoestring
.46 ARF that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Radio Equipment
The Shoestring .46 ARF requires a minimum 4-channel radio
system with four 44 oz.-in. [3.2 kg-cm] minimum standard
sized servos. If you are installing a glow engine, an additional
standard servo is required for the throttle.
In addition, two 6" [152mm] servo extensions are required
for the aileron servos. If you are using a radio system that
does not support mixing functions, Y-harnesses will also be
required to connect the aileron servos to the receiver.
If you plan to install a brushless motor, you will need a 6"
[152mm] servo extension for the ESC.
A charge jack receptacle is optional, but is useful for
recharging the receiver pack without removing the canopy
hatch. Recommended part numbers for the radio components
are provided below:
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants, and fuselage included
in this kit are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may
cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow
into a part to remove fi berglass dust, as the dust will blow
back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle
mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding
fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area
thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
❏ Futaba
❏ Hobbico
(HCAM2701)
®
S9001 Servo Aircraft Coreless BB (FUTM0075)
®
Pro™ HD Extension 6" [152mm] Futaba J
❏ Hobbico Pro HD Y-Harness Futaba J (HCAM2751)
❏ Ernst Charge Receptacle Futaba J FM (ERNM3001)
Power System Recommendations
The recommended engine/motor size for the Shoestring
.46 ARF is a .46 – .55 cu in [7 – 9 cc] two-stroke engine, a
.70 – .81 cu in [11.5-13.5 cc] four-stroke engine, or a RimFire
.46 (42-60-800) brushless outrunner motor. Engine and
motor order numbers are provided below:
❏ O.S.
❏ Bisson O.S. .46 SF/FX .50 SX Pitts Muffl er (BISG4046)
❏ Great Planes RimFire .46 (42-60-800) Outrunner
❏ Great Planes Brushless Motor Mount Medium Motors
If using the recommended brushless motor, a 80A brushless
ESC is required:
❏ Great Planes Silver Series 80A Brushless ESC High Volt
3
®
46AX ABL w/Muffl er (OSMG0547)
Brushless (GPMG4725)
(GPMG1255)
(GPMM1860)
Page 4
Propeller
Adhesives and Building Supplies
If you are installing a glow engine, choose a prop based
on the engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If you are
installing the recommended RimFire brushless motor, we
suggest an APC 11x5.5E propeller (APCQ1055).
Batteries and Charger
For a brushless motor installation, two 3350mAh 11.1V
Lithium Polymer battery packs connected in series are
recommended. Order numbers for the battery packs and
series connector are provided below:
❏ Great Planes LiPo 3350mAh 11.1V 25C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0541)
❏ Great Planes Series Deans
(GPMM3143)
A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery listed above:
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly
Balancer 1-5 (GPMM3160)
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™ is designed for LiPo packs only, but is able
to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™ charger will only charge one pack at a time, but is
capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and Pb acid batteries.
Order numbers for both are provided below:
®
U 2 to 1 Adapter
™
Equinox™ LiPo Cell
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to fi nish the Shoestring .46 ARF:
❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel (HCAR0460)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16 Collet w/6 Bits (HCAR0696)
4
Page 5
❏ Hobbico 8-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench SAE
(HCAR0520)
❏ Hobbico 7-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench Metric
(HCAR0521)
❏ Great Planes Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8030)
ORDERING REPLACMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Shoestring .46 ARF
are available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
Building Stand
A building stand or cradle comes in handy during the build.
We use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for all our
projects in R&D, and it can be seen in pictures throughout
this manual.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fi t
the part as necessary for the best fi t.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” and follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the
Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal
check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
Fuselage
Wing Set
Tail Set
Canopy/Hatch
Cowl
Landing Gear
Wheel Pants
Wing Tube
Decal
Full-size plans are not available.
You can download a copy of this
manual at www.greatplanes.com.
®
or MasterCard
®
5
Page 6
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
1
2
5
3
4
7
6
1313
1. Canopy/Hatch
2. Fuselage
3. Cowl
4. Spinner
5. Fuel Tank
6. Engine Mount Halves
7. Wheel Pants (2)
9
8. Main Landing Gear (2)
9. Main Wheels (2)
10. Tail Wheel Assembly
11. Rudder
12. Horizontal Stabilizer
13. Wing Halves
14. Wing Joiner Tube
88
10
14
11
12
6
Page 7
PREPARATIONS
❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on page 6.
❏ 2. Remove the tape and separate all the control surfaces.
Use a covering iron with a covering sock on high heat to
tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted
areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
❏ 2. Attach a 6" [152mm] servo extension to each aileron
servo and secure the connector using 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces
from the included heat shrink tubing. Center the servos with
your radio system and install the servo arms to the servos
perpendicular to the servo cases as shown. Be sure to
reinstall the servo arm screws into the servos.
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Before completing this section, confi rm that the servos that
you will be using will properly fi t between the servo mounting
blocks on the aileron servo hatch covers. Make adjustments
as necessary for your brand servos. A razor saw or hobby
knife can be used to trim the blocks if necessary.
5/64" [2mm]
CUT OFF UNUSED ARMS
❏ 1. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for each
aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole of each remaining arm
with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
❏ 3. Position the servos against the underside of the aileron
servo hatch covers between the mounting blocks. Shim
the servo away from the hatch cover approximately 3/64"
[1.2mm] (a business card folded in thirds works well for this).
Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the mounting tabs on the
servo cases into the blocks. Thread a servo mounting screw
(included with the servo) into each hole and back it out. Apply
a drop of thin CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the
CA has dried, install the servos onto the hatch covers using
the hardware supplied with the servos.
7
Page 8
❏ 4. Use the strings taped inside the aileron servo hatches
to pull the servo leads through the wing.
❏ 6. Thread a nylon clevis 20 complete turns onto each 4"
[102mm] pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each
clevis and connect the clevises to the outer holes of two
control horns.
CORRECTINCORRECT
Hinge LineHinge Line
❏ 5. Position the aileron servo hatch covers in place and drill
a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the mounting holes and into
the hatch mounting blocks. Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] selftapping screw into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop
of thin CA to each hole to harden the wood surrounding the
hole. Install the hatch covers to the wings using eight #2 x
3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws and eight #2 fl at washers.
❏ 7. Position the control horns over the plywood plates in
the ailerons (if you cannot see them, hold the aileron at a
shallow angle in good lighting or use a small pin to puncture
the covering) using the position of the servo arms as a
guide. Align the holes in the control horns directly over the
aileron hinge line and mark the location of the control horn
mounting holes.
❏ 8. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks you made
through the plywood plates. Do not drill all the way through
the ailerons! Thread a #2 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screw
through each hole and back it out. Apply a couple drops of
thin CA glue to each hole to harden the wood. When the glue
has dried, install the control horns onto the ailerons using
four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screws.
8
Page 9
2-56 (.074")
Pushrod Wire
FasLink
ASSEMBLE THE TAIL SECTION
Servo Horn
1/16"
❏ 9. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the ailerons in the
neutral position. Make a mark on the pushrods where they
cross the outer holes in the servo arms. Make a 90° bend at
the mark on the pushrod and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4"
[6mm] beyond the bend. Attach the pushrods to the servo
arms using nylon FasLinks. Thread the clevises up or down
on the pushrods as necessary to center the ailerons with the
servo arms centered. When satisfi ed, slide the silicone clevis
retainers to the ends of the clevises to secure them.
❏ 1. Insert the wing tube into the fuselage and center its
position. Slide the wing panels onto the tube and feed the
aileron servo leads through the mating holes in the fuse.
Tighten the wing panels against the fuse using the two nylon
wing bolts.
9
Page 10
and right and align it with the wing panels. Use denatured
alcohol to clean up any excess epoxy. Allow the epoxy to
cure undisturbed.
❏ 4. When the epoxy has cured, the wing panels can be
removed from the fuselage and set aside. They will not be
needed again until it is time to set up the control throws.
1"
1"
3/4"
❏ 5. Cut the included 2" x 9" [51mm x 229mm] CA hinge
strip into 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25mm] individual hinges. Clip the
corners of each hinge to make them easier to insert into the
hinge slots.
❏ 2. Test fi t the horizontal stabilizer into the stab slot at
the aft end of the fuselage (without glue). Center the stab left
and right in the fuse. Measure the distance from the stab tips
to the wing tips and make the measurements equal. Now,
stand behind the model approximately 5-6 ft [1.5-1.8m] and
confi rm that the stab and wings are parallel. If not, weight
can be added to one side to bring them parallel, or the stab
can be taped to the fi n to pull it parallel with the wing.
❏ 3. After you have determined if any weight will need to
be added during the gluing process, remove the stab from
the fuse. If necessary, lightly sand away any excess paint
from inside the stab slot. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy
and coat the stab slot as well as the exposed wood of the
stabilizer (coating the stab slot will require additional cleanup
after inserting the stab into the fuse. However, it will make a
stronger glue joint). Slide the stab into the fuse, center it left
DRILL A 3/32" HOLE,
1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER
OF HINGE SLOT
❏ 6. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep into the
center of each hinge slot in the stab and elevator halves.
❏ 7. Test fi t a CA hinge into each of the hinge slots in the
stab and elevator halves. If necessary, enlarge the slots with
a hobby knife. When satisfi ed with the fi t, insert a CA hinge
halfway into each hinge slot in the wing panel. Push a pin
through the middle of each hinge to keep them centered.
10
Page 11
❏ 8. Join the elevators to the stab and remove the pins from
the hinges. Align the tips of the elevators with the stab tips.
Adjust the elevators so there is a small gap between the LE
of the elevators and the stab. The gap should be small, just
enough to see light through the gap or to slip a piece of paper
through. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of
each hinge without using accelerator. After the CA glue has
hardened, confi rm that the elevators are secure by pulling on
them and defl ecting them up and down.
❏ 9. Test fi t the rudder to the fuselage with the tail wheel
assembly installed in the orientation shown. Make any
adjustments necessary so the nylon tab on the tail wheel
wire fi ts all the way into the slot in the fuse.
❏ 11. Glue the tail wheel wire into the hole in the LE of
the rudder with medium or thick CA glue. Lightly coat both
sides of the nylon tab with thick CA glue or epoxy and fi t the
rudder to the fuselage along with two CA hinges. Glue the
CA hinges in place with thin CA glue.
❏ 12. Secure the tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire with a
3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar and a 4-40 set screw.
❏ 10. Roughen the portion of the tail wheel assembly that
fi ts into the rudder with 220-grit sand paper and clean it off
with alcohol. Oil the tail wheel wire at the nylon tab to prevent
it from being glued to the wire.
11
Page 12
INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS
AND PUSHRODS
❏ 2. Install a control horn onto the right side of the rudder in
the same manner.
❏ 1. Temporarily insert a 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrod
into each elevator pushrod exit slot. Use the position of
the pushrods to align the elevator control horns onto the
undersides of the elevator halves. Mark the locations of the
control horn mounting holes onto the elevator halves and
drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks. Attach the elevator
control horns to the elevators using four 2-56 x 5/8" [16mm]
machine screws and the control horn backplates.
❏ 3. Install the elevator and rudder servos onto the servo
tray in the direction and positions shown using the hardware
supplied with the servos. Note that the pushrods are used to
position the servos on the tray. Be sure to harden the screw
holes with thin CA as was done with the aileron servos.
Cut three arms from two four-armed servo arms. Center
the servos with your radio system and install them onto the
servos with the servo screws. Enlarge the outer holes of
each servo arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
❏ 4. Thread a nylon clevis and silicone clevis retainer onto
a 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrod 20 complete turns. Slide the
12
Page 13
pushrod through the rudder pushrod exit slot in the fuselage
and connect it to the third outer hole in the rudder control horn.
Slide the silicone clevis retainer to the end of the clevis.
❏ 4. With the rudder in the neutral position and the rudder
servo arm perpendicular to the servo case, mark where the
pushrod crosses the outer hole of the servo arm. As you did
with the aileron pushrods, make a 90° bend at the mark and
cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6.4mm] beyond the bend.
Secure the pushrod to the servo arm with a nylon FasLink.
Make any adjustments necessary to the nylon clevis so that
the rudder is properly centered and slide the silicone clevis
retainer to the end of the clevis.
❏ 6. With the left elevator in the neutral position and the
elevator servo arm perpendicular to the servo case, mark
the location where the left elevator pushrod crosses the
outer hole of the elevator servo arm. Make a 90 degree bend
at the mark and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6.4mm]
beyond the bend. Position the right elevator in the neutral
position and cut off the excess pushrod 1" [25mm] behind
the elevator servo arm. Join the two elevator pushrods
together using two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars, two 6-32 x
1/4" [6.4mm] SHCS, and thread locking compound. View
the model from behind and confi rm that the elevator halves
are parallel. If not, make any adjustments as necessary to
the clevises or wheel collars until they are. Connect the left
elevator pushrod to the servo arm with a FasLink.
❏ 5. Connect two 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrods with nylon
clevises and silicone clevis retainers to the third outer holes
in the elevator control horns.
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL THE
MAIN LANDING GEAR
❏ 1. Secure the axles to the landing gear legs using the
5/16"-24 nylon lock nuts.
13
Page 14
❏ 2. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar onto each axle followed
by a 3" [76mm] wheel and then another 5/32" [4mm] wheel
collar. Mark the location of the threaded holes in the wheel
collars onto the axles. Use a fi le or rotary tool such as a
Dremel to grind fl at spots at the marks on the axles.
❏ 3. Reinstall the wheel collars and wheels onto the axles.
Thread a 6-32x1/4" [6.4mm] socket head cap screw into each
wheel collar and tighten the screws against the fl at spots on
the axles using threadlocking compound. Be sure that the
wheel rotates freely on the axle. Oil the axles if necessary.
❏ 5. Attach the landing gear legs to the fuselage using four
6-32 x 5/8" [16mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock
washers, and thread locking compound.
❏ 4. Attach the wheel pants to the landing gear legs using
four 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] machine screws, four #4 fl at washers,
four #4 lock washers, and thread locking compound.
14
Page 15
INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM
TOP OF TANK
Glow Engine Installation
The Shoestring is designed to be fl own with a .46 – .55 twostroke glow engine, .70 – .81 four-stroke glow engine, or a
brushless outrunner motor. If you plan to install a brushless
motor, skip this section as it only contains information
relevant to installing a glow engine.
VENT
FILL AND CARB LINES
❏ 1. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system
consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffl er and a
carb line. Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be
done through the carb line, or an optional fuel fi ll valve (not
included). The tank can also be assembled as a three line
system having a vent line, carb line, and fi ll line. If installing
a fi ll line, puncture the top of the stopper above the sealed
off fuel tube hole. The front of the lines should extend out
1/2" [13mm] beyond the stopper and the vent line should be
bent upwards and left uncut. With the tubes installed in the
stopper, fi t the stopper plates loosely in place with the 3 x
25mm phillips screw to hold the assembly together.
❏ 2. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent
line pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching.
The fuel tubing and clunks (fuel pickup) on the carb and fi ll
lines should almost reach the back of the tank but not touch.
The clunks must be able to move freely inside the tank when
assembled. Adjust the length of the fuel tubing accordingly.
When satisfi ed, tighten the 3x25mm screw in the stopper to
secure it in place (do not over-tighten). Mark the side of the
tank that must face up when installed in the plane, and we
also suggest marking the tubes in the stopper.
❏ 3. Make a 12" [305mm] strap from the included hook
and loop material by overlapping the mating ends by
approximately 1" [25mm].
15
Page 16
❏ 4. Insert the hook and loop through the slots in the fuel
tank tray. Fit the tank neck through the hole in the fi rewall
(with the correct side of the tank facing up) and use the strap
to tightly secure the tank to the tray.
❏ 5. Cut the included 6x6mm stick to fi t snugly between
the fuse sides right behind the fuel tank. Glue the stick
into place.
❏ 7. Using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at
washers, four #6 lock washers, and thread locking compound,
attach the engine mount side-mounted to the fi rewall so that
the engine head will be on the right side. Leave the screws
slightly loose. Test fi t your engine between the mount halves.
Slide the mount halves against the sides of the engine and
fi nish tightening the mount screws.
❏ 8. Attach a 6"-7" [152mm-178mm] piece of fuel tubing
onto each line coming from the tank.
❏ 6. If you plan to install the O.S. 81FS-a engine, you will
need to cut away the nose gear bearing from the engine
mount as shown. A rotary tool with a sanding or cutting bit
works well for this. A hobby knife can also be used.
❏ 9. Position the front of the engine drive washer 4-7/8"
[124mm] from the fi rewall. Mark the location of the engine
mount holes onto the mount rails using a Dead Center Hole
Locator. Remove the engine from the mount and use a 6-32
tap and drill set to create threads in the four mounting holes.
16
Page 17
❏ 10. Attach the engine to the mount using four 6-32 x 1" [25mm]
SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, and four #6 lock washers.
❏ 13. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm included
with your throttle servo. Install a screw-lock pushrod
connector into the outer hole in the remaining arm and
secure it in place with a nylon pushrod connector retainer.
Loosely install a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS into the screw-lock
pushrod connector.
❏ 11. Install your muffl er onto the engine. We are using a
pitts-style muffl er for a clean and easy installation. The stock
muffl er will also work, but a lot of the cowl will have to be
trimmed away.
❏ 12. Cut the fuel tubing coming from the tank to the proper
length and connect the pressure and carb lines to the engine.
The fi ll line (if installed) should be plugged with the included
aluminum fuel line plug and can be routed through a hole in
the cowl which will be done later in the assembly (remember to
replace the fuel line plug after fi lling or draining the fuel tank).
❏ 14. Center the throttle servo with your radio system
and install the arm perpendicular to the servo case. Install
the throttle servo onto the throttle servo tray using the
hardware supplied with the servo. Most engine models will
require the throttle servo to be oriented on the tray in the
direction shown.
❏ 15. Drill a hole through the fi rewall using a 3/16" [4.8mm]
drill bit (an extra long bit works well for this step) inline with
the location of the throttle arm on the engine carburetor. Take
care not to drill through the fuel tank!
17
Page 18
❏ 16. Roughen the ends of the 7-1/2" [191mm] outer
pushrod tube using 220-grit sandpaper. Slide the outer
pushrod tube through the hole in the fi rewall leaving 1/4"
[6.4mm] protruding from the front of the fi rewall. Glue the
outer pushrod tube to the fi rewall.
and test fi t into the outer pushrod tube. Make the necessary
bends to the pushrod in order to clear the muffl er. When
satisfi ed, connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the engine
and insert the aft end of the pushrod through the screwlock pushrod connector. Make any necessary adjustments
to the brass screw-lock connector so that the throttle opens
and closes with the servo. Tighten the SHCS in the pushrod
connector, cut away the excess pushrod 1/4" [6.4mm] behind
the pushrod connector, and glue a plywood outer pushrod
clip to the outer pushrod tube and fuel tank brace. Use the
radio system to test the operation of the throttle, making sure
it properly opens and closes.
Brushless Motor Installation
The Shoestring .46 ARF is designed to be fl own with a .46.55 two-stroke glow engine, .70-.81 four-stroke glow engine,
or a brushless outrunner motor. If you plan to install a glow
engine, skip this section as it only contains information
relevant to installing a brushless motor.
Be sure to read and understand the instructions that
come with the ESC and motor before attempting to
operate the system.
❏ 17. Cut part of the threads away leaving 1/2" [13mm] of
thread length from the remaining 17-1/2" [445mm] pushrod.
Thread a clevis and silicone clevis retainer onto the pushrod
❏ 1. Attach the outrunner motor to the brushless motor mount
using the included 3 x 8mm machine screws and thread
locking compound. If you haven’t done so yet, install the prop
adapter to the motor case with the hardware included with
the motor and thread locking compound.
18
Page 19
❏ 2. Temporarily attach the motor mount to the fi rewall with
two 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS or hold the motor mount in
position while you mark the location for cooling holes in the
location shown. There should be an elliptical-shaped hole on
both sides of the mount. Use a rotary tool to cut out the holes
before attaching the mount. When satisfi ed with the size and
shape of the holes, attach the motor mount to the fi rewall
using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers,
four #6 lock washers, and thread locking compound.
❏ 3. Loosen the screws that hold the aluminum motor mount
halves together and slide them apart as necessary so that the
front of the prop adapter is 4-7/8" [124mm] from the fi rewall.
When adjusting the mount, do not inadvertently create an up
or down motor thrust angle. Use thread locking compound
on the screws that join the motor mount halves.
❏ 4. Assemble the ESC tray as shown. Use pieces from the
included 6x6mm triangle stock to reinforce the tray sides.
❏ 5. Attach the ESC to the tray using three 3x12mm self-
tapping screws. Be sure to harden the screw holes with thin
CA. Other brand ESCs may need to be attached to the tray
with tie straps (not included) or a hook and loop strap.
19
Page 20
❏ 6. If you are using the recommended Great Planes SS-80
ESC, you will need to attach a 6" [152mm] servo extension.
Secure the extension with tape, heat shrink tubing, or a
special clip designed for that purpose. Attach the ESC tray
to the brushless motor mount using four 3x12mm machine
screws, four 3mm fl at washers, and four 3mm nylon lock
nuts. The battery and ESC receiver leads should be routed
through the center hole in the fi rewall. Secure the excess
motor leads out of the way of the motor. We used a tie strap
(not included).
❏ 8. Make a strap from the included non-adhesive hook and
loop material long enough to fi t your battery packs. Feed the
strap through the slots in the battery.
❏ 9. Test fi t your batteries onto the tray. The exact position
of the batteries will be determined when you will check the
balance of the plane after the assembly has been completed.
When you confi rm the needed position of the batteries on
the tray, mark that position somewhere on the tray. Now
would also be a good time to confi rm the correct rotation of
the motor (before you install the propeller) using your radio
system. The motor should rotate counter-clockwise when
looking at the airplane from the front. If the motor rotates in
the wrong direction, simply disconnect any two of the three
motor leads and swap their positions.
❏ 7. Apply a thin coat of epoxy down the center of the
battery tray. This will improve the adhesion of the hook and
loop material. When the epoxy has completely cured, attach
a piece of the hook side from the included hook and loop
strap to the battery tray. The loop side should be attached to
your battery pack (use additional pieces to join LiPo packs
together for a series confi guration).
❏ 10. A cool air exit hole needs to be cut into the underside
of the fuse behind the wing. A rotary tool with a cutting bit
works well for this. Be sure your hole is made between the
formers, not through them.
20
Page 21
FINISH THE MODEL
❏ 1. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material
to fi t your receiver. Cut a piece of foam rubber (not included)
to fi t your receiver and strap the receiver to the tray in front
of the tail servos as shown. Connect the rudder and elevator
servos to the receiver (and ESC if applicable).
the plane, be sure to mount the switch on the opposite side.
Connect the switch to the battery and receiver, being sure
to secure the connection between switch and battery. You
can also install a charge jack receptacle. However, we chose
to leave this out since the Shoestring has a magnetically
attached canopy hatch. Just be sure to keep the charge jack
lead in an accessible location in the fuse.
❏ 2. Mount the receiver battery pack next to the receiver in
the same manner.
❏ 4. With everything connected, we suggest bundling the
excess wires and use a tie strap to keep them out of the way
of the hatch opening and tail servos.
❏ 5. We used some scrap pieces of fuel tubing to support
the dual receiver antennas in the correct orientation against
the inside of the fuse (see your radio manual for details).
If you have installed an FM or PCM receiver, route your
receiver antenna through the antenna tube and out the
aft end of the fuse. Be sure to install a strain relief on the
antenna (if applicable).
❏ 3. Mount your switch harness to the fuselage side in the
location that you prefer. We mounted ours below the wing
near the leading edge. If your muffl er outlet is on the side of
21
Page 22
hole, holding it securely in place during fl ight. If you have
installed a brushless power system, make a cooling hole
cutout near the bottom aft edge of the cowl. Templates for
cooling hole cutouts are provided in the back of this manual
if you have installed a brushless system.
❏ 6. Install the canopy hatch onto the fuselage by fi tting the
dowels into the receiving holes, pressing the tabs at the aft
end of the hatch into the slots, and then sliding the hatch
back. Apply pieces of masking tape in the locations shown.
Mark the locations for the cowl mounting screw holes on the
tape using the measurements shown in the pictures. In order
to transfer the mounting hole locations onto the cowl, draw
a 3-3/4" [95mm] line along the tape pieces, starting the lines
at your marks.
❏ 8. If necessary, ream the spinner backplate to match the
diameter of the prop shaft. Fit the cowl onto the fuselage
and slide the spinner backplate onto the prop shaft. Position
the cowl so that the front of it is centered with the spinner
backplate and is 3/32" [2.4mm] behind it. Temporarily tape
the cowl into place or have a helper hold it steady while you
transfer the cowl mounting hole locations onto the cowl. Do
this by measuring forward along the lines on the tape 3-3/4"
[95mm] and marking on the cowl for the fi ve screw holes.
❏ 7. Before fi tting the cowl, make any cutouts necessary
for your power system. If you are installing a glow engine, a
cutout must be made for the engine head, exhaust outlets,
clearance for the throttle clevis, and needle valve access. A
1/4" [6.4mm] hole can be drilled or reamed into the cowl for
convenient fi ll line access. The fuel tubing will slide through
the hole, but the included fuel line plug will fi t snugly into the
❏ 9. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks you made on the
cowl through the cowl mounting blocks that are pre-glued
inside the fuselage. Remove the cowl and thread a #4 x 1/2"
22
Page 23
[13mm] self-tapping screw into each hole in the fuselage and
back it out. Apply a couple drops of thin CA to each hole
in the blocks. Enlarge the fi ve holes in the cowl with a 1/8"
[3.2mm] bit. Install the cowl onto the fuselage using fi ve #4 x
1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screws and fi ve #4 fl at washers.
❏ 10. Install the spinner backplate, propeller, prop washer,
and prop nut onto the motor. Install the spinner cone using
the screws included inside the spinner package.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Install and Operate the Motor Battery
(Brushless Only)
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs connected with
an adapter, never charge the batteries together through the
adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge
the batteries, then read the following precautions on how to
connect multiple packs for fl ying the model:
BATTERY PRECAUTIONS:
There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In
Series and in Parallel.
These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
OKAY
You have now completed the assembly!
APPLY THE DECALS
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap and water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal
down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
7.4V (2-Cell)
3200mAh
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (–)’s and the (–)’s to the (+)’s. This combines the
voltages of the batteries, but the capacity remains the same.
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
OKAY
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500mAh
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500mAh
This is a PARALLEL battery adapter (GPMM3142)
that connects two batteries in parallel.
Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (+)’s and the (–)’s to the (–)’s. This combines the
capacities of the batteries, but the voltage remains the same.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
23
Page 24
Different
voltages
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3200mAh
NO!!!
PARALLEL
adapter
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
NEVER connect battery packs with different voltages
in parallel! Only combine them in series. Otherwise, the
batteries with lower voltage will try to “equalize” with the
batteries that have a higher voltage. Current will fl ow from
the higher voltage battery into the lower one, essentially
“charging” the lower voltage battery pack. This situation will
likely cause heat and possibly a fi re.
NO!!!
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
Different
capacities
NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in
series or in parallel.
11.1V (3-Cell)
1250mAh
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
FULL
THROTTLE
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
24
Page 25
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low rate
setting. NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part
of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
ELEVATOR
Up
1/2"
[13mm]
14°
Down
1/2"
[13mm]
14°
Up
3/8"
[10mm]
10°
Down
3/8"
[10mm]
10°
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point)
can have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and
may determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine or
brushless motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and
battery pack if applicable).
❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-5/8" [92mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing.
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst
fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the C.G. up to 3/8" [10mm] forward or 3/8" [10mm] back
to change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but
the model may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G.
aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too diffi cult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
Right
RUDDER
AILERONS
Exponential: 40% exponential is recommended on aileron high rates. If your
radio system does not have an exponential function, we suggest using low rate
ailerons for your first few flights.
IMPORTANT: The Shoestring .46 ARF has been
extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it fl ies best. Flying your model at these throws
will provide you with the greatest chance for successful
fi rst fl ights. If, after you have become accustomed to the
way the Shoestring fl ies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However, too much
control throw could make the model diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
7/8"
[22mm]
14°
Up
5/8"
[16mm]
17°
Left
7/8"
[22mm]
14°
Down
5/8"
[16mm]
17°
Right
5/8"
[16mm]
10°
Up
5/16"
[8mm]
8°
Left
5/8"
[16mm]
10°
Down
5/16"
[8mm]
8°
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of
the model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank,
place the model on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it
upside-down at the balance point you marked.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver
must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to
balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
25
Page 26
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If
additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily
added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.
[28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the fi rewall (don’t attach weight
to the cowl—it is not intended to support weight). Begin by
placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the
bottom of the fuse over the fi rewall until the model balances.
Once you have determined the amount of weight required,
it can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may
be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing
it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or
epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the
next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your
choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the
batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be
fl ying with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been
laterally balanced will track better in loops and other
maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the
identifi cation tag on page 31 (or on the decal sheet) and
place it on or inside your model.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confi rm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly
to full power and maintains full power—indefi nitely. After
you run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely
to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are
secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors
are secure.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before
the fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter antenna
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should
be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and
still have control (if using a 2.4GHz radio system, refer to
the radio manual for the range checking procedure). Have
an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the
26
Page 27
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat
this test with the engine running at various speeds with an
assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you
what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look
for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from
a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
LITHIUM BATTERY
HANDLING AND USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a Li-Po approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed 150° F
(65° C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or
puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to
the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of
a running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:
This does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
27
Page 28
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight
line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications
Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
CHECK LIST
❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the
connection between your battery pack and the on/off
switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special
clips suitable for that purpose.
❏ 12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
❏ 13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or
J.B. Weld.
❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❏ 15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your fi rst fl ight.
❏ 20. Range check your radio when you get to the
fl ying fi eld.
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before
the model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place
with foam rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏ 4. Balance your model laterally as explained in
the instructions.
❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
❏ 9. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
FLYING
The Shoestring .46 ARF is a great-fl ying model that fl ies
smoothly and predictably. The Shoestring does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be fl own only by experienced R/C pilots.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such
as an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing
the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
fl utter can actually cause the control surface to detach
or the fl ying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when fl utter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fl uttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably fl utter
again unless the problem is fi xed. Some things which
can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Sideplay of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
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Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below
peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready,
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of
up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail
wheel steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As the
model gains speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail
to come off the ground. One of the most important things to
remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much
speed as your runway and fl ying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffi c pattern.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Shoestring for the fi rst few fl ights,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level fl ight. If you
have powered the airplane with a .46 engine, you will fi nd
the plane fast, but not so fast to get yourself in trouble. If you
have powered it with a .55 engine, the airplane becomes very
fast so be sure to get fully acquainted with how it performs
before attempting complex maneuvers that could get you
into trouble. After fl ying around for a while and while still at
a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight and
execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle
to see how the model handles at slower speeds. Add power
to see how the model climbs as well. Continue to fl y around,
executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or
having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the
way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to
become familiar with your model before landing.
Landing
The Shoestring has a clean, racing airframe. Because of this,
you will fi nd that it takes longer to slow the plane for landing
than some other airplanes you have fl own. Be prepared for
this and don’t be surprised if you have to go around and
set up for your landing a second time. To initiate a landing
approach, lower the throttle while on the downwind leg. Allow
the nose of the model to pitch downward to gradually bleed
off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain airspeed
by keeping the nose down as you turn onto the crosswind
leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway (into the wind)
keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and control.
Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway
threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain
your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot,
smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right
rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another
attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing fl are and
the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up
elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on
the runway and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to
place the tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
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Great Planes® Escapade™ .40-.70 GP/EP ARF
GPMA1200
The Escapade is destined to become the plane you can’t put down, the model that stands out as your all-time favorite. Easy
handling and aerobatic performance are just two of the reasons you’ll want to fl y this ARF again and again. It fl ies great with
either glow or electric power. With its built-up airframe, bolt-together construction, pre-hinged control surfaces and striking
MonoKote® trim scheme already applied, assembling the Escapade requires just 4-6 hours. And ailerons can be set up for
single-servo simplicity or dual-servo authority with no modifi cation.
The 59” span Revolver looks fast, and its performance — under glow or brushless electric power — follows through with
excellent high- and low-speed fl ight performance. Built from select balsa/ply, it features a 2-piece, balsa sheeted, foam core
wing covered in MonoKote® fi lm. The cowl, wheel pants and landing gear are light, painted fi berglass. But that’s not even the
best part. This fantastic sport aerobat only takes a mere 10 hours to assemble before it’s fl ight-ready!
Requires: 4+ channel radio w/5 servos (50 oz-in min. torque)
Electric Motor Requirements:
800kV brushless outrunner motor,
80A brushless ESC,
(2) 3200mAh 11.1V 20C LiPo packs,
11 x 5.5E prop,
large aluminum motor mount
Glow Engine Requirements:
2-stroke .46-.55 cu in (7.5-9.0 cc) or
4-stroke .70 cu in (11.5 cc) engine
The Reactor Biplane .61 GP/EP ARF builds upon the Reactor’s reputation for classic lines and a wide fl ight envelope. It’s
larger than the Reactor Bipe EP, with the capability for smooth sport maneuvers, pattern fl ight and 3D aerobatics with an
outrunner brushless motor as well as a 2-stroke or 4-stroke glow engine. Quality construction is evident in the fi berglass cowl,
wheel pants and upper wing mounting pylon. The wing pylon is glued in place, with the servo leads inside for a cleaner look.
Large, airfoiled tail surfaces offer smooth fl ight and confi dent control. Pre-hinged ailerons speed fi nal assembly even more.
The servo mount cutouts are sized for digital “mini” servos, or can be enlarged to accommodate standard size servos.
O.S.® Engines .46 AX ABL
OSMG0547
Ask the pilot who owns one, and the reasons to buy mount up fast.
Start with 1.65 hp output from a 17.2 oz. engine. Add ABL (Advanced
Bimetallic Liner) durability, a self-leveling and aligning head design,
a tapered low-speed needle to eliminate transition "surge" and the.46
AX still has more to offer. There's a simple rotor guide screw for lowend adjustment - and the high-speed needle includes both a ratchet
spring and O-ring seal to lock settings in for the long haul. Includes
A3 glow plug, E-3010 muffler, and 2-year warranty protection.
Displacement: 0.455 cu in (7.5 cc)
Bore: 0.866 in (22.0 mm)
Stroke: 0.772 in (19.6 mm)
ElectriFly™ RimFire™ .46 Outrunner Brushless Motor
GPMG4725
Compared to brushed motors, RimFire motors last longer, require
far less maintenance and deliver far more performance. The
RimFire .46 outrunner arrives ready for installation, with goldplated bullet connectors compatible with ElectriFly’s BL and
Silver Series ESCs. Recommended for 3D airplanes up
to 5 lb (2210 g) and sport planes up to 7.5 lb (3400 g);
ideal for use with 60A brushless ESCs, 22.2V LiPo
packs and 10x5 to 11x5 electric props.