Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
Weight: 19.5 − 20.5 lb [8840 − 9300 g]
Length: 82.5 in [2095 mm]
Radio: 4 channel minimum
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
SPECIFICATIONS
Engine: 50 cc two stroke
gasoline engine
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Following the success of the .40 and .60 size Revolver we
have responded to your request for an even larger version.
This 50cc Revolver is a great fl ying airplane in the tradition
of its smaller counterparts and is an easy to transport giant
scale model. For the latest technical updates or manual
corrections to the Revolver, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select
the Revolver 50cc ARF. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the
upper left corner of the page.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join! The
AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership
provides liability insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights
and interests and is required to fl y at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS...
FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Revolver should not be considered a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like
a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities,
the Revolver, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage
to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition,
a correctly sized engine, and other components as specifi ed
in this instruction manual. All components must be correctly
installed so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. You must check the operation of the model and
all components before every fl ight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this type
of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance
of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your fi rst fl ights.
If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has
information about clubs in your area whose membership
includes experienced pilots.
6. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
2
Page 3
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
7. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part
(wheel pant, cowl) to remove fi berglass dust, as the dust
will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and
sanding fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area
thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends on how
you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of
your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
❍2- Heavy Duty Dual Servo Lead (FUTM4135 for Futaba).
If you choose to use a dual servo lead or “Y” harnesses to
mix multiple servos you will need one for the elevator and
the ailerons. If you are using a 6 channel (or more) radio
then you may wish to operate each servo independently
and mix them through the radio.
❍2 - Heavy Duty Switch Harnesses (FUTM4385)
Engine
For all of our testing we used the DLE 55 (DLEG0055). Another
good choice would be the O.S. GT55 (OSMG1555), though
with this engine you will need to cut a bit more of the cowl
away for clearance for the carburetor. The Revolver fl ies well
with any of the 50cc class gasoline engines available and
has been designed to work with engines with the carburetor
linkage on either the left or right side of the fuselage.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Required Hardware & Accessories
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to fi nish
the Revolver. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Revolver
50cc that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Radio Equipment
One of the great things about the Revolver 50cc is that it does
not require a sophisticated radio. This airplane can be fl own
with something as simple as a four channel radio. We think
you will be able to enjoy all of the capabilities of this model
with the Futaba 6 EX (FUTK6900), the 7C (FUTK7004), or
the 8 FG Super (FUTK8010). The airplane will also require:
❍ 1- six (or more) channel receiver
❍ 5 - 99 oz. servos. Futaba 3305 (FUTM0045) Two required
for the elevator, two for the ailerons and one for the rudder.
❍2 - 50 oz. servos. Futaba 9001 (FUTM0075) One required
for the throttle. One is an optional servo that can be used
on the choke.
❍2 - 36" [914mm] Pro Series Heavy Duty Servo Extensions
(HCAM2726 for Futaba) for the elevator servos. One is
required if you use a dual servo extension to connect the
servos. Two if you use a separate lead to two separate
ports in the receiver.
❍3 - 12" [305mm] Pro Series Heavy Duty Servo Extensions
(HCAM2711 for Futaba). Two for the aileron servos and
one for the throttle.
❍2- 12" [305mm] Pro Series Heavy Duty Servo Extensions
(HCAM2711 for Futaba). These would be required if you do
not use “Y” connectors from your receiver to the ailerons.
❍1 - 6" Pro Series Heavy Duty Servo Extensions (HCAM2711
for Futaba) for the choke.
Adhesives & Building Supplies
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to fi nish the Revolver.
❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❍ 1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❍ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❍ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 3/16" [4.8mm],
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Revolver.
❍ Top Flite MonoKote sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❍ Top Flite Hot Sock iron cover (TOPR2175)
❍ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❍ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❍ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
● There are three types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet Metal Screws are designated by a number and a
length. For example #6 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number six screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long.
3
Page 4
Machine Screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length. For example
4-40 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number four screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long with
forty threads per inch.
Socket Head Cap Screws(SHCS) are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length. For example
4-40 3/4" [19mm].
This is a 4-40 SHCS that
is 3/4" [19mm] long with
forty threads per inch.
●When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom
fi t the part as necessary for the best fi t.
●Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
●Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
●Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer
to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to
get another view of the same parts.
●The Revolver is factory-covered with Top Flite MonoKote fi lm.
Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote can be patched
with additional MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote
is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell
it by the foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed
for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you
some. MonoKote is applied with a model airplane covering
iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could be used. A
roll of MonoKote includes full instructions for application.
Following are the colors used on this model and order
numbers for six foot rolls.
❍ Missile Red ❍ Orange ❍ Sapphire Blue
(TOPQ0201) (TOPQ0202) (TOPQ0226)
●The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not
of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing
parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Champaign, IL 61822 Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Revolver ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Select “Where to Buy” in the menu
across the top of the page and follow the instructions provided
to locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721, but
full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply.
Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax. If
ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard® number and
expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders Hobby Services
and payments by 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
personal check to: Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the
Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal
check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order No.Description
GPMA4520
GPMA4521
GPMA4522
GPMA4523
GPMA4524
GPMA4525
GPMA4527
GPMA4528
GPMA4529
GPMA4530
GPMA4531
TOPA1657
4
FUSELAGE
WING SET
HORIZONTAL STAB SET
RUDDER
COWL
CANOPY/HATCH
TAIL GEAR
WING JOINER TUBE
HORIZONTAL STAB TUBES
WHEELPANTS
DECALS
ALUMINUM SPINNER
Page 5
KIT CONTENTS
4
Kit Contents
1. Right Wing w/ Aileron
2. Left Wing w/ Aileron
3. Wing Tube
4. Spinner
5. Wheels
6. Wheel Pants
16
8
7
6
5
7. Landing Gear
8. Fuel Tank
9. Right Stab & Elevator
10. Left Stab & Elevator
15
14
10
9
11
12
1
3
2
13
13. Rudder
14. Tail Wheel Assembly
15. Fuselage
16. Cowl
11. 19-3/4" [501mm] Stab Tube
12. 9-1/2" [241mm] Stab Tube
PREPARATIONS
1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
❏
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection” on
the previous page.
2. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on high heat to
❏
tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted
areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
BUILD THE WING
We recommend you begin with the right wing so that your
assembly matches the photos.
1. Use your servo as a guide for the servo placement.
❏ ❏
Place the servo so the servo arm is centered in the opening
in the cover. Use epoxy to glue the 11/16" x 11/16" x 5/16"
[20mm x 20mm x 8mm] hardwood servo mounting blocks to
the insides of the hatch covers. Allow the epoxy to cure.
5
Page 6
2. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole in the hatch covers through
❏ ❏
the mounting blocks approximately 3/8" [9.5mm] deep. Thread
a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head wood screw into each hole
and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA glue to each hole to
harden the wood. When the CA glue has dried, thread a #2
x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head screw into each of the four holes.
3. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for each
❏ ❏
aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole of each remaining arm
with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
4. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo extension to the aileron
❏ ❏
servo and secure the connector using tape or heat shrink
tubing (not included). Center the servos with your radio system
and install the servo arms to the servos perpendicular to the
servo cases as shown. Be sure to reinstall the servo arm
screws into the servos.
6. Inside the servo bay a string is taped. Tie the string
❏ ❏
to the servo lead. Taped to the root rib you will fi nd the other
end of the string. Pull the string and the servo lead through
the wing.
7. Position the aileron servo hatch covers in place and
❏ ❏
drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the mounting holes and
into the hatch mounting blocks. Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
screw into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA
to each hole to harden the wood. Install the hatch covers to the
wings using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] and four #2 fl at washers.
5. Position the servos against the underside of the aileron
❏ ❏
servo hatch covers between the mounting blocks. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes through the mounting tabs on the servo cases
into the blocks. Thread a servo mounting screw (included with
the servo) into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin
CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the CA has dried,
install the servos onto the hatch covers using the hardware
supplied with the servos.
6
Page 7
Hinge LineHinge Line
CORRECTINCORRECT
8. The aileron has a plywood control horn mounting
❏ ❏
plate built into it. Place a control horn onto the plate in line
with the servo arm. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through each
of the four mounting holes, into the plywood plate. DO NOT
DRILL THROUGH THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE AILERON!
9. Install and then remove a #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screw
❏ ❏
into the four holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin
CA glue into the holes to harden the threads. Allow the glue
to harden.
HOW TO SOLDER
1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly
clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod with
coarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered.
2. Apply a few drops of soldering fl ux to the end of the
pushrod, and then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat
it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder by applying the
solder to the end. The heat of the pushrod should melt the
solder – not the fl ame of the torch or soldering iron – thus
allowing the solder to fl ow. The end of the wire should be
coated with solder all the way around.
3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add another
drop of fl ux, then heat and add solder. The same as
before, the heat of the parts being soldered should melt
the solder, thus allowing it to fl ow. Allow the joint to cool
naturally without being disturbed. Avoid excess blobs, but
make certain the joint is thoroughly soldered. The solder
should be shiny, not rough. If necessary, reheat the joint
and allow to cool.
4. Immediately after the solder has solidifi ed, but while it
is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the fl ux before
it hardens. Important: After the joint cools, coat the joint
with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid fl ux that
comes with silver solder for electrical soldering.
10. Secure the horn to the aileron with four #4 x 5/8"
❏ ❏
sheet metal screws.
11. Locate a 4-40 x 5-3/4" [146mm] threaded pushrod
❏ ❏
wire, 4-40 nut, 4-40 threaded clevis, 4-40 solder clevis and
two silicone clevis keepers. Assemble the pushrod as shown.
12. Install the pushrod assembly to the servo arm. Install
❏ ❏
the 4-40 solder clevis into the hole second from the end of the
control horn. Center the aileron and make a mark on the wire
where it will need to be cut. Remove the pushrod assembly
and the solder clevis. Cut the wire on the mark you made.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like –
shiny solder with good flow, no blobs and flux removed.
13. Using the instructions in the Expert Tip, “How To
❏ ❏
Solder”, install the 4-40 solder clevis onto the end of the
pushrod wire soldering the clevis to the wire. After the solder
7
Page 8
has cooled slide the clevis retainer over the solder clevis.
Center you servo and then install the pushrod into the control
horn and the servo arm. Adjust the clevis as needed and then
tighten the 4-40 nut against the clevis. Be sure to apply a drop
of thread locker to the threaded wire and nut.
14. Locate two anti-rotation pins. Apply epoxy to the
❏ ❏
ribbed end of the pin and into the two holes at each end of
the root rib. Insert the pin into the hole leaving approximately
3/8" [9.5mm] of the pin extending from the root rib. Clean
any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol and a paper towel
before the glue hardens. Set the wing aside to allow the glue
to harden.
15. Repeat steps 1-14 for the left wing panel.
❏
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
Assemble the Tail Section
1. Locate the 9-1/2" [241mm] and 19-3/4" [501mm] carbon
❏
fi ber stab tubes. Insert them into the fuselage as shown.
2. Locate the left and right halves of the stab/elevator, two
❏
aluminum ribs and four 4-40 x1/2" [13mm] machine screws.
Install the aluminum ribs to each of the stabs with two 4-40
screws. Be sure that you use thread locker on each of the
screws. During the assembly be sure the side of the rib with
the counter sink faces the outside of the rib. This allows the
screw to be fl ush with the surface of the rib.
8
Page 9
Install the Elevator Servos
Note: Steps 1 and 2 describe the installation of the servo
lead for the elevator servos. The installation described uses
one extension and a “Y” connector. Some might prefer a
separate line for each servo. Either method is acceptable.
3. Slide the stab assembly onto the carbon fi ber tubes, fl ush
❏
to the fuselage. Secure the stab to the fuselage with two 4-40
x1/2" [13mm] socket head cap screws, #4 lock washers and
#4 fl at washers. Be sure to use thread locker on each of the
bolts. Do this for both halves of the stab.
1. Install a 36" [914mm] servo extension into the tube, sliding
❏
the extension to the back of the fuselage. When it is through
the tube pull the extension outside one of the servo openings.
2. Install a “Y” connector onto the servo extension. Secure
❏
the connection with shrink tubing, tape or some other method
to secure the connection. Note: You may choose to use two
leads for the servos instead of the “Y” connector.
9
Page 10
3. Using the hardware that came with your servo, set up
❏
two servos as shown and install them into the servo bays.
When installing the servos be sure that you secure the servo
connections with shrink tubing, tape or some other method
for securing the connections.
4. The elevator has a plywood control horn mounting plate
❏
built-in. Place a control horn onto the plate in line with the
servo arm. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through each of the
four mounting holes, into the plywood plate. DO NOT DRILL
THROUGH THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ELEVATOR!
7. Locate two 4-40 x 5-3/4" [146mm] threaded pushrod
❏
wires, 4-40 nuts, 4-40 threaded clevises, 4-40 solder clevises
and silicone clevis keepers. Use the same procedure used
for making the aileron pushrods and make two pushrod wires
for the elevators.
Install the Rudder
1. Locate four rudder
❏
hinges. Apply a drop of
oil to each of the hinge
points. This will prevent
glue from working into
the hinge.
5. Install and then remove a #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screw
❏
into the four holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin
CA glue into the holes to harden the threads. Allow the glue
to harden.
6. Secure the horn to the elevator with four #4 x 5/8" sheet
❏
metal screws.
2. Mix ¼ ounce [2 drams] of epoxy. Apply it to one half of
❏
the hinge and inside the hinge hole in the leading edge of
the rudder. Do this for each of the four hinges and then insert
each of the four hinges into the holes in the trailing edge of
the rudder. Clean any excess epoxy with a paper towel and
denatured alcohol. Set the rudder aside until the glue hardens.
3. Repeat step 2 for the opposite end of the hinge, gluing
❏
the rudder to the fuselage.
10
Page 11
4. The rudder has a plywood control horn mounting plate
❏
built-in. Place a control horn onto the plate in line with the hole
for the pull-pull wire. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through each
of the four mounting holes, into the plywood plate. DO NOT
DRILL THROUGH THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE RUDDER!
5. Install and then remove a #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screw
❏
into the four holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin
CA glue into the holes to harden the threads. Allow the glue
to harden.
6. Secure the horn to the aileron with four #4 x 5/8" sheet
❏
metal screws. Do this on both sides of the rudder.
Install the Landing Gear
2. Cut the axles to a length of 1-13/16" [46mm]. Secure
❏ ❏
the axles to the landing gear legs using the 5/16"-24 nylon
lock nuts.
1. Attach the landing gear legs to the fuselage using four
❏
8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #8 fl at washers, four #8 lock
washers, and thread locking compound. When installed
properly the landing gear sweeps back.
3. Slide a 3/16" [5mm] wheel collar onto each axle
❏ ❏
followed by a 3-1/2" [90mm] wheel and then another 3/16"
[5mm] wheel collar. Mark the location of the threaded holes
in the wheel collars onto the axles. Use a fi le or rotary tool
such as a Dremel to grind fl at spots at the marks on the axles.
4. Reinstall the wheel collars and wheels onto the axles.
❏ ❏
Thread a 6-32 set screw into each wheel collar and tighten the
set screws against the fl at spots on the axles. Be sure that
the wheel rotates freely on the axle. Oil the axles if necessary.
11
Page 12
5. Attach the wheel pants to the landing gear legs using
❏ ❏
four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] machine screws, four #6 fl at washers,
four #6 lock washers, and thread locking compound. Adjust
the wheel as needed to center the wheel in the wheel pant.
7. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole though each of the marks you
❏
made. Install and then remove a #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screw into
the holes you drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin CA into
the holes to harden the threads. Set the fuselage aside until
the glue hardens.
8. Assemble the tail wheel wire as shown with the tail wheel
❏
steering arm and a 3mm wheel collar. Install a 3mm x 8mm
[5/16"] screw into the steering arm and a 3mm x 5mm screw
in the wheel collar. Position the steering arm so it is parallel
to the end of the tail wheel wire. Mark the location onto the
wire where the screws contact the tail wheel wire. Tip: Slightly
tighten the screws and then rotate the steering arm and the
wheel collar back and forth. This will allow the screw to scribe
a mark onto the wire.
6. Locate the aluminum tail wheel bracket. Center it on the
❏
fuselage positioning as shown in the photo. Mark the location
of the mounting holes onto the fuselage.
9. Using a high speed motor tool or a small fi le, make a fl at
❏
spot on the wire where the screws make contact with the wire.
12
Page 13
10. Re-assemble the
❏
tail wheel as shown. Be
sure that you apply a drop
of thread locker onto the
screws. The tail wheel
should be positioned on
the wire between two 3mm
wheel collars secured
by 3mm x 5mm [3/16"]
screws. Before fi nalizing
the tail wheel installation
make a mark on the wires
where the screws contact
the wire. Make a fl at spot
on the wires. Secure the tail wheel with the wheel collars and
3mm x 5mm [3/16"] screws. Be sure that you apply thread
locker when installing the screws.
of the tail wheel assembly, inserting and twisting the wires
into the control horn and steering arm in the holes shown.
Install the Rudder Servo
& Pull-Pull Wires
1. From the servo horns that are included with your servo
❏
locate the four arm horn. Remove two of the four arms, center
the servo and then install the servo arm onto the servo as
shown.
11. Install the tail wheel assembly to the fuselage with two
❏
#4 x 5/8" [16mm] screws, #4 lock washers and #4 fl at washers.
2. Using the hardware that came with your servo, install
❏
the servo in the opening in the fuselage as shown.
12. Locate the two tail wheel wire springs. With the rudder
❏
centered with the vertical fi n, attach the springs to each side
3. Locate the braided cable, four brass tubes (called a
❏
swage) and four threaded brass 4-40 couplers. Use wire
cutters to cut the supplied braided cable into two equal lengths.
13
Page 14
4. Slide a small swage over one end of the cables and
❏ ❏
then guide the end of the cable through the hole in the end of
the 4-40 threaded brass connector and back through the swage.
5. Wrap the cable back through the swage, pulling the
❏ ❏
excess wire tight to the swage.
9. Install the clevises into the holes of the rudder control
❏
horns as shown. Insert the wire into the holes on each side
of the fuselage, pushing the wires inside the fuselage.
10. Install a 4-40 nut, threaded clevis and silicone clevis
❏
keeper onto the remaining two threaded brass connectors.
6. Squeeze the swage with a pliers to secure the wire.
❏ ❏
Cut the excess wire from the swage.
7. Install a 4-40 nut, 4-40 threaded clevis and a silicone
❏ ❏
clevis keeper onto the brass connector as shown.
8. Repeat steps 4-7 with the remaining cable.
❏
11. Center the rudder servo and the rudder. (You may fi nd
❏
it helpful to tape the rudder in place for this step). Install the
clevises into the outer holes of the servo arm. Using the same
technique used on the opposite end of the wire, slide a small
swage over one end of the cable and then guide the end of the
cable through the hole in the end of the 4-40 threaded brass
connector and back through the swage. Wrap the cable back
through the swage, pulling the excess wire tight to the swage.
Do this for both cables, adjusting the tension as needed. Once
you are satisfi ed with the tension on the cables, squeeze the
swages onto the wire. Cut the excess wire from the swages.
Install the Engine, Fuel Tank
& Remaining Servos
The following engine mounting instructions show the installation
of the DLE55 gas engine. The installation of other brands
of engines will be similar and the following instructions can
be used as a guide. The fi rewall has been positioned for the
DLE55 to mount without any additional spacers. You may
14
Page 15
have to make spacers or use a proper length stand-off to
accommodate your engine. For reference, the distance from
the front of the fi rewall to the front of the drive washer is 6-3/4"
[172mm].Read through these instructions to become familiar
with the mounting method.
1. Locate the DLE engine bolt mounting pattern on page 31
❏
of this manual. Tape the pattern onto the front of the fuselage,
aligning the reference marks on the fi rewall with the reference
marks on the pattern.
2. The DLE engine uses 5mm mounting bolts, (not included
❏
with the kit). The drill bit size used here is for the DLE engine.
Double check the hole sizes required for your particular engine.
Many modelers have their own opinions for connectors
and throttle linkage. We have provided materials for a
secure and safe throttle linkage. We have also included a
method to connect a linkage to the choke. This will require
the use of an additional servo for the choke linkage. Some
modelers may prefer a mechanical choke linkage. Review
the following procedure and then modify it as you wish to
fi t your personal preferences.
4. Install 2-56 ball links and 2-56 nuts to both the throttle
❏
and the choke. Be sure to apply a drop of thread locker to the
threads on the ball link.
Drill a pilot hole through each of the marks on the template.
Remove the template and then drill a 13/16" [20mm] clearance
hole through the fi rewall on each of the four pilot holes you
drilled.
3. Mount the engine to the fi rewall with 5mm x 25mm [1"]
❏
bolts and fender washers (not included in the kit or with the
engine). The stand-offs can be permanently mounted to the
fi rewall. Be sure to use thread locker on the bolts. The bolts
that mount the engine to the stand-offs should be snug but
not tightened permanently as you will be removing the engine
several times during the installation procedure.
5. Make marks on the fi rewall where the throttle, choke and
❏
fuel line will pass through. Remove the engine from the standoffs. Then, drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the fi rewall for
the throttle and choke. Drill a 1/4" [6.4mm] hole on the mark
for the fuel line. (Check the diameter of your fuel line to be
sure that a 1/4" [6.4mm] hole is correct).
15
Page 16
6. Locate three brass tubes and fi ve fuel barbs. Solder the
❏
barbs to one end of each of the three tubes.
7. Insert each of the three tubes through the metal plates
❏
and the rubber stopper. Note: One of the holes in the stopper
is not open and will have to be cut open before the tube can
be inserted. Slide the metal plate with the threaded hole over
the brass tubes.
8. Solder a fuel barb on the carburetor fuel tube and the
❏
vent line (this is the two shortest tubes)
10. Slide the aluminum ring over the fuel lines before
❏
installing the stopper into the fuel tank. Install the stopper into
the tank. Slide the aluminum ring onto the neck of the tank.
Make sure when you insert the stopper that the vent line is
at the top of the tank. Secure the stopper by installing the
stopper screw through the center of the metal plate, tightening
the stopper to the tank. Set the fuel tank aside.
9. Install fuel lines onto the fuel tubes (not included) and
❏
then install the fuel clunks on the fuel line. When determining
the length of the fuel line, be sure the clunks are able to move
freely in the fuel tank. Bend the vent line upward towards the
top of the fuel tank.
11. On both sides of the fuselage is a location to mount the
❏
throttle servo. The side of your engine that the carburetor is
located on will determine which side of the fuselage your servo
is mounted. For the DLE engine, mount the servo on the left
side of the fuselage. If your engine is on the right side of the
engine mount, the servo is on the right side of the fuselage.
Use the hardware included with the servo to mount it.
16
Page 17
12. There are two plywood supports that you need to glue
❏
into the fuselage. The support with two holes gets installed on
the same side of the fuselage as the throttle servo. Glue the
two supports into the slots in the side of the fuselage.
13. Cut one of the 14" [350mm] outer plastic pushrod
❏
tubes to a length of 10" [254mm]. Insert it through the hole
for the throttle, through the fi rewall, into the fuselage and into
the hole in the plywood support as shown in the photograph.
Roughen the tube with sandpaper where the tube contacts
the fi rewall and former. Glue the tube to the fi rewall and the
plywood support.
14. Locate the 36" [914mm] inner pushrod tube and cut a
❏
13" [330mm] piece from it. Screw a 2-56 x 1" [25mm] threaded
wire ¼" [6mm] into the inner pushrod. Screw a nylon ball link
onto the threaded wire. Slide the pushrod tube into the tube
you installed in the fi rewall and snap the ball link onto the ball
you installed on the throttle arm.
15. Position the carb fully open and rotate the throttle servo
❏
arm to the position to open the throttle. Locate another 2-56
x 1" [25mm] threaded wire, 2-56 nut, 2-56 threaded clevis
and silicone clevis retainer. Thread the assembly together.
Place the clevis in the outer hole of the servo arm. Cut the
inner pushrod to the fi nal length required for the threaded
wire to screw into the pushrod. Install the wire, clevis, 2-56 x
1" [25mm] threaded wire, 2-56 nut, 2-56 threaded clevis and
silicone clevis retainer into the pushrod tube. Install the clevis
into the outer hole of a short, 5/8" [16mm] servo arm.
Building Note: You now need to decide if you are going to
use a separate servo to activate the choke. Some modelers
like this method while others prefer a manual choke. Either
is acceptable. As part of your consideration for installing the
17
Page 18
choke servo you should know that the location of the servo
will make it a little more diffi cult to tighten the wing attachment
bolt. If you will be using a manual choke skip ahead to step 24.
16. Locate the
❏
plywood choke servo
tray parts and the
two hardwood blocks.
Glue the tray together
as shown.
19. Install the remaining outer pushrod tube through the
❏
hole in the fi rewall in line with the choke, into the fuselage
and through the hole in the support former and resting in the
notch in the former ahead of the wing tube. Mark the tube
where the tube contacts the fi rewall and formers. Remove the
tube and then roughen the tube with sandpaper in the areas
that contact the fi rewall and the formers. Reinstall the tube
and glue it to the fi rewall and formers.
17. Place the tray on the same side of the fuselage as the
❏
throttle servo, against the wing tube and the slot in the battery
tray. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the tray. Secure the
choke servo tray with four #2 x 3/8" [10mm.] screws and #2
washers.
18. Install the choke servo into the tray using the hardware
❏
that came with the servo. Install a short 5/8" [16mm] servo
arm on the servo.
20. Locate the 3mm plywood half ring plate. Glue it in place
❏
to the pushrod tube, securing it to the former.
21. Locate the remaining nylon ball link. Cut ¼" [6mm] from
❏
the end of the ball link.
18
Page 19
22. Screw a 2-56 x 1" [25mm] threaded wire ¼" [6mm] into
❏
the remaining inner pushrod. Screw the nylon ball link you cut
onto the threaded wire. Slide the pushrod tube into the tube
you installed in the fi rewall and snap the ball link onto the ball
you installed on the choke arm.
23. Position the choke fully open and rotate the choke servo
❏
arm to the position to open the choke. Locate another 2-56
x 1" [25mm] threaded wire, 2-56 nut, 2-56 threaded clevis
and silicone clevis retainer. Thread the assembly together.
Place the clevis in the outer hole of the servo arm. Cut the
inner pushrod to the fi nal length required for the threaded
wire to screw into the pushrod. Install the wire, clevis, 2-56 x
1" [25mm] threaded wire, 2-56 nut, 2-56 threaded clevis and
silicone clevis retainer into the pushrod tube. Install the clevis
into the outer hole of a short, 5/8" [16mm] servo arm.
25. Install fuel lines onto each of the lines coming out of
❏
the fuel tank. Once the lines have been installed feed the lines
through opening in the front of the fuselage. The carburetor
line should be inserted through the hole you drilled for it in
the fi rewall. The vent and fi ll line can be inserted through the
openings in the bottom of the fi rewall box. Place the tank
between the tie wraps. Secure the tank by tightening the tie
wraps against the tank. Trim off the excess tie wrap strap.
26. Trim the carburetor fuel line to the proper length and
❏
install it onto the fuel inlet.
Install the Radio System
24. Locate the four 16" [406mm] nylon tie wraps. Insert one
❏
into each of the slots in the plywood plate as shown. After you
have inserted one into each slot, attach a second tie wrap to
both of the fi rst tie wraps.
1. Install your receiver with a piece of R/C foam under it
❏
and secure it in place with the included Velcro strap.
19
Page 20
2. Install a 6" [152mm] extension on the choke servo
❏
and a 12" [305mm] extension on the throttle servo. Secure
the connections with heat shrink tubing, tape or some other
method to secure the connectors.
3. Plug the servos into the correct channels on your receiver.
❏
Complete the Engine Installation,
Mount the Cowl, Prop & Spinner
1. Slide the cowl over the engine and onto the fuselage. The
❏
cowl will not center properly because you will need to remove
some of the cowl to make clearance for the engine. Place the
cowl over the engine as far as you can. You should be able to
get it almost completely over the engine. With a felt tip marker,
mark inside of the cowl the area where the engine makes
contact with the cowl. After marking the cowl remove it from
the fuselage. Use a high speed motor tool and appropriate
cutting tool to remove the area of the cowl where it contacts
the engine. Remove small amounts at a time, test fi tting the
cowl as you go. You do not want to remove more of the cowl
than is needed to create engine clearance. Continue with this
until the cowl rests tightly against the front of the fuselage.
4. Located on both sides of the fuselage are pre-cut
❏
openings for the switch harness and charge receptacle. Cut
away the covering from the openings you choose to use and
then install the switch and charge receptacles into the fuselage.
5. Install your battery and R/C foam into the fuselage,
❏
securing it with the included Velcro. Plug the battery into the
switch harness and receiver. Be sure to secure the battery
connection with heat shrink tubing, tape or some other
method to secure the connection.
2. Locate two 6-32 x ¾" [19mm] socket head cap screws,
❏
#6 lock washers and #6 fl at washers. Secure the cowl to the
fuselage from behind the cowl with the bolts and washers.
3. Securing the bottom of the cowl to the fuselage is done
❏
from the front of the cowl but will remain inaccessible until you
complete cutting the cowl for the engine and muffl er clearance.
With the cowl secured with the top two cowl mounting bolts,
mark the rest of the cowl to indicate the fi nal area that needs
to be cut for engine clearance. Cut away those areas from
the cowl.
20
Page 21
4. In order to fi t the cowl over the engine and muffl er you
❏
will need to shorten the exhaust pipes of the muffl er. If you are
installing the DLE 55 and the recommended J-Tec muffl er you
will need to shorten the pipes by approximately 2-1/4" [57mm].
You can do this with a hack saw or a high speed motor tool
and cut-off wheel. Shorten the exhaust pipes as needed.
5. Install the muffl er and cowl. Mark the areas of the cowl
❏
that need to be removed for muffl er clearance and remove
those areas.
6. Install the switch and charge jack for the engine ignition
module. We installed them near the front of the fuselage to
maintain separation between the ignition and radio system.
7. Following the instructions with the engine, install the
❏
ignition module and battery. We have provided room on the
side of the fuselage for the battery and you will be able to fi t
the ignition module on top of the fuselage. The battery and
the ignition module should be mounted with foam underneath
them and secured with the included tie-wraps.
8. Make all of the connections between the switch, charge
❏
jack, battery and the ignition module. Secure the connections
with heat shrink tubing, tape or some other method for securing
the connections. If you have not already secured the engine,
secure the engine to the stand-offs with the bolts that came
with the engine. Be sure you apply thread locking compound
to the bolts before tightening them.
21
Page 22
9. Put the cowl back onto the fuselage. You will need to
❏
make some clearance in the cowl for the spark plug lead.
Make fi nal adjustments to the cowl as needed. When you
have fi nished, mount the cowl with the two 6-32 x ¾" [19mm]
socket head cap screws, #6 lock washers and #6 fl at washers.
Secure the bottom of the cowl with 6-32 x 1" [25mm] socket
head cap screws, #6 lock washers and #6 fl at washers. Now
that you have cut open the cowl for the engine and muffl er
clearance you will be able to insert the lower bolts into the
lower mounting holes in the bottom of the cowl.
11. Rotate the prop shaft until the engine is on compression
❏
(the piston is at the top of the cylinder). Slide your prop onto
the engine shaft. (You may need to drill the center of the prop
to fi t the engine). Once the prop fi ts the shaft set your prop
somewhere near the 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock position. This
is the position most modelers prefer. If you prefer a different
position set the prop there. Make a reference mark on the prop
that aligns with one of the holes in the drive washer.
10. Cut two holes in the bottom of the fuselage sized to
❏
fi t your fuel line. Feed the vent and fi ll line through the holes.
Install the fuel plug in the fuel line.
12. Drill the prop for the bolt holes required for your engine.
❏
Many manufacturers sell a drill gauge guide specifi cally for
this purpose (DLEQ0551 for the DLE 55). If you do not own
a drill guide you can also use the prop washer as your guide.
For accuracy it is best to use a drill press when drilling the
holes. After drilling the holes be sure to check that the prop
matches the drive washer and that it is positioned correctly.
22
Page 23
13. Slide the spinner back plate onto the prop shaft followed
❏
by the newly drilled prop. Set the prop so it is positioned
properly. Without moving the prop rotate the back plate until
the prop is over the cut outs in the back plate. Place the spinner
cone on the back plate(do not secure the spinner cone with
screws). Using the spinner cone as your guide, position the
prop. Adjust the position of the back plate and spinner cone,
making sure there is clearance around the prop blade. Once
you are satisfi ed that all of the parts are properly aligned,
carefully remove the spinner cone without disturbing the prop
and back plate. Transfer the hole locations in the prop to the
back plate. Drill the prop holes in the back plate.
14. Mount the back plate, prop and prop washer with the
❏
engine bolts to be sure everything aligns. Make adjustments
as needed.
15. Install the spinner with the eight screws and washers
❏
included with the spinner. When you do the fi nal installation
of the screws you must use thread locking compound to
prevent them from vibrating free.
12. Install the wing tube through the hole in the fuselage.
❏
23
Page 24
13. Slide the wings onto the tube, making sure to feed the
❏
servo lead from the wing through the hole in the side of the
fuselage. Slide the wing snug to the fuselage sides.
15. Install the canopy onto the top of the fuselage, aligning
❏
the pins in the front of the canopy with the holes behind the
cowl. Secure the canopy with four 4-40 x1" [25mm] screws,
#4 fl at washers and #4 lock washers.
Apply the Decals
Use the photos on the box to determine where to place your
decals.
1. Remove the decals from the sheet.
❏
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
❏
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,
submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning
and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
❏
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
❏
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
14. Locate the two nylon wing bolts. Secure the wing to the
❏
fuselage by tightening the bolts to the fuselage.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Check the Control Directions
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the trims.
❏
If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos and
reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the screws
that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
❏
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
24
Page 25
FULL
THROTTLE
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
❏
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any
of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo
reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained
centered. Adjust if necessary.
Set the Control Throws
To ensure a successful fi rst fl ight, set up your Revolver
according to the control throws specifi ed in this manual. The
throws have been determined through actual fl ight testing
and accurate record-keeping allowing the model to perform
in the manner in which it was intended. If, after you have
become accustomed to the way the Revolver .50 fl ies, you
would like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is
fi ne. However, too much control throw could make the model
too responsive and diffi cult to control, so remember, “more
is not always better.”
1. Use a box or something similar to prop up the bottom of
❏
the fuselage so the horizontal stabilizer and wing will be level.
2. Hold a ruler vertically on your workbench against the
❏
widest part (front to back) of the trailing edge of the elevator.
Note the measurement on the ruler.
3. Move the elevator up with your transmitter and move the
❏
ruler forward so it will remain contacting the trailing edge. The
distance the elevator moves up from center is the “up” elevator
throw. Measure the down elevator throw the same way.
4. If necessary, adjust the location of the pushrod on the
❏
servo arm or on the elevator horn, or program the ATVs in
your transmitter to increase or decrease the throw according
to the measurements in the control throws chart.
If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting
the throws at the high rate settings.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
25
Page 26
These are the recommended control surface throws:
ELEVATORRUDDERAILERONS
LOW RATE
Up & Down
1/2"
[13 mm] 6°
Right & Left
2-3/4"
[70 mm] 19°
Up & Down
5/8"
[16 mm] 12°
HIGH RATE
Up & Down
3/4"
[19 mm] 10°
Right & Left
3-1/4"
[83 mm] 22°
Up & Down
7/8"
[22mm] 17°
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity/
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model
fl ies and could determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will
be successful. If you value your model and wish to enjoy it
for many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced may
be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition with
all of the components in place including the complete radio
system, engine, muffl er, propeller, spinner and pilot.
1. If using a Great Planes C.G. Machine, set the rulers to
❏
7-7/8" [200mm]. If not using a C.G. Machine, use a fi ne-point
felt tip pen to mark lines on the top of the wing at both sides of
the fuselage 7-7/8" [200mm] back from the leading edge. Apply
narrow (1/16" [2mm]) strips of tape over the lines so you will
be able to feel them when lifting the model with your fi ngers.
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst
fl ights. Later, you may experiment by shifting the C.G. 5/8"
[16mm] forward or 5/8" [16mm] back to change the fl ying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward will improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model will then be less
aerobatic (which may be fi ne for less-experienced pilots).
Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable
and aerobatic for experienced pilots. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
❏
model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” If possible, move
❏
the battery pack and/or receiver forward to get the model to
balance. If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy.” If possible,
move the battery pack and/or receiver aft. If the receiver and/
or battery cannot be moved, or if additional weight is still
required, nose weight or tail weight may be easily added by
using Great Planes “stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485). To fi nd out
how much weight is required, place incrementally increasing
amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuselage over the
location where it would be mounted inside until the model
balances. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the
fi rewall. Do not attach weight to the cowl—this will cause the
mounting screws to open up the holes in the cowl. Once you
have determined the amount of weight required, it can be
permanently attached.
Note: If mounting weight where it may be exposed to fuel
or exhaust, do not rely upon the adhesive on the back to
permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and exhaust
residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight to fall
off. Instead, permanently attach the weight with glue or screws.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
❏
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
❏
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
❏
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
26
Page 27
PREFLIGHT
Ground Check & Range Check
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or
inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club fl ying sites
and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the identifi cation
tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always
charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before
you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by the
radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be fl ying with
batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure it idles reliably,
transitions smoothly and maintains full power indefi nitely.
Afterward, shut the engine off and inspect the model closely,
making sure all fasteners, pushrods and connections have
remained tight and the hinges are secure. Always ground check
the operational range of your radio before the fi rst fl ight of the
day following the manufacturer’s instructions that came with
your radio. This should be done once with the engine off and
once with the engine running at various speeds. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct
the problem fi rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in
severe injury to yourself and others.
●Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
●Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.
● Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
● Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
●Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
●Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
●Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller.
● Make all engine adjustments with the engine turned off.
● The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so
fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
●To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should
be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into
the propeller of a running engine.
27
Page 28
AMA SAFETY CODE
CHECK LIST
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,
or model fl ying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously, successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid having models fl y
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that
explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with fl ying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight line.
Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles
of any pre-existing fl ying site except in accordance with
the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete
AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the model
other than the landing gear, intentionally touch the ground,
except while landing.
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed (that’s why it’s
called a check list!).
1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue
❏
such as the cowl ring, cowl mounting blocks, wing saddle
area, etc.
2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements provided
❏
in the manual.
3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely mounted
❏
in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place with foam rubber
is not suffi cient.
4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
❏
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder
joint inside the receiver (only for non 2.4 systems)
5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
❏
instructions.
6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
❏
such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles to the struts,
screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock
pushrod connectors, etc.
7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏
8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏
9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
10. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
❏
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises
❏
and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the
screws included with your radio.
12. Secure connections between servo wires and
❏
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection between
your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat
shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have used
❏
do not interfere with other systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.).
14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
❏
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or J.B. Weld.
15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not
❏
kinked.
28
Page 29
16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏
17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏
18. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
❏
number on or inside your model.
19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
❏
make sure it is fully charged.
20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
❏
your fi rst fl ight.
21. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
❏
FLYING
The Revolver is a great-fl ying model that fl ies smoothly and
predictably. The Revolver does not, however, possess the selfrecovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should
be fl own only by experienced R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak
speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent
dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, fl utter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the fl ying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an
impending crash. The best thing to do when fl utter is detected
is to slow the model immediately by reducing power, then
land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface
fl uttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking all
the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration.
Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of
play. If it fl uttered once, under similar circumstances it will
probably fl utter again unless the problem is fi xed. Some
things which can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap;
Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in
horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends;
Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting;
and one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering,
then gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains
speed decrease up elevator allowing the tail to come off the
ground. One of the most important things to remember with
a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to
counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as your runway
and fl ying site will practically allow before gently applying up
elevator, lifting the model into the air. At this moment it is likely
that you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract
engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the
model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before
turning into the traffi c pattern.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
You will fi nd that the Revolver 50cc fl ies like a much lighter
airplane. It has a wide speed envelope and a light wing loading.
Though not a 3D airplane, the Revolver is very aerobatic and
capable of snaps, spins rolls, lomcevaks and knife edge fl ight.
If you are new to giant scale models you will fi nd the Revolver
a great plane to make your foray into large airplanes.
Take it easy with the Revolver 50cc for the fi rst few fl ights,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level fl ight. After
fl ying around for a while, and while still at a safe altitude with
plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight and execute practice landing
approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model
handles at slower speeds. Add power to see how she climbs
as well. Continue to fl y around, executing various maneuvers
and making mental notes (or having your assistant write
them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required
to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way you like. Mind your
fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to become familiar with your
model before landing.
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway (into
the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and
control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway
threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain
your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot,
29
Page 30
smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right rudder
to counteract torque) and climb out to make another attempt.
When you’re ready to make your landing fl are and the model
is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up elevator until
it gently touches down. Once the model is on the runway and
has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the
ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because
of poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
30
Page 31
80 mm
DLE 55 Mounting Pattern
67 mm
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
Phone Number
AMA Number
31
Page 32
GPMA1425 Mnl
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