Elenco Green Projects User Manual

Copyright © 2009 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced 753317 by any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.

The battery (B4) will only work if it is charged. Project 3 shows how to recharge it.

Table of Contents For the best learning experience, do the projects in order.

Basic Troubleshooting 1

Parts List 2

How to Use It 3, 4

About Your Snap Circuits®Green Parts 5 - 7

Advanced Troubleshooting 9, 10

Project Listings 11, 12

Projects 1 - 129 13 - 77

Other Snap Circuits®Projects 78

DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 8

WARNING FOR ALL PARTS WITH A SYMBOL - Moving parts. Do not touch the

motor or fan during operation. Do not lean over the motor. Eye protection is

recommended.

WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never

connect your Snap Circuits®set to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!

WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts. Not

for children under 3 years.

Conforms to all

applicable U.S.

government

requirements.

Basic Troubleshooting

2. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly, always double-check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.

3. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.

4. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.

5. Sometimes the motor or solar cell is omunted on the pivot stand so its angle to the sun or wind can be adjusted. The pivot stand base, post, and top should be assembled together.

Elenco®Electronics is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.

Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow the Advanced Troubleshooting

procedure on page 9 to determine which ones need replacing.

Warning to Snap Circuits®Owners: Use only parts included in this kit to prevent damage.

WARNING: If you have long

hair, be careful that it does not

get caught in the fan blade.

WARNING: Always check your

wiring before turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.

Batteries:

• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.

• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open it.

• Use only 1.5V AAA type (not included) in the FM radio.

• Insert batteries with correct polarity.

• Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged.

• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbon-zinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.

• Do not mix old and new batteries.

• Remove batteries when they are used up.

• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.

-1-

Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers

Qty. ID Name Symbol Part # Qty. ID Name Symbol Part #

 1

Base Grid (11.0” x 7.7”)

6SCBG

 1

Zinc Electrode with Snap

6SCEZS

 2

 3

 1

1-Snap Wire 6SC01

2-Snap Wire 6SC02

3-Snap Wire 6SC03

4-Snap Wire 6SC04

5-Snap Wire 6SC05

Jumper Wire (Black) 6SCJ1

Jumper Wire (Red) 6SCJ2

Rechargeable Battery

Solar Cell 6SCB7

Battery Eliminator for FM Radio

470μF Capacitor 6SCC5

6SCB4

6SCBE

 1

Hand Crank 6SCHC

Liquid Holder 6SCLH

Motor 6SCM4

Wind Fan 6SCM4B

Water Wheel 6SCM4C

Meter 6SCM6

Pivot Stand Base 6SCPSB

Pivot Post 6SCPSP

Pivot Top 6SCPST

FM Radio 6SCFM2

Press Switch 6SCS2

 1

 3

 1

 3

Red LED 6SCD1

Yellow LED 6SCD5

Copper Electrode 6SCEC

Copper Electrode with Snap

Zinc Electrode 6SCEZ

6SCECS

 1

 3

Slide Switch 6SCS5

Clock 6SCT2

Horn 6SCW1

Screw 8-32 Phillips 641840

Nut 8-32 644800

You may order additional / replacement parts at our website: www.snapcircuits.net

-2-

How to Use It

Snap Circuits®uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. Each block has a function: there are switch blocks, light blocks, battery blocks, different length wire blocks, etc. These blocks are different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use and snap together to form a circuit.

For Example:

This is the switch block which is green and has the marking on it. The part symbols in this booklet may not exactly match the appearance of the actual parts, but will clearly identify them.

There is also a 1-snap wire that is used as a spacer or for interconnection between different layers.

A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit blocks properly spaced. You will see evenly spaced posts that the different blocks snap into. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.

Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first, then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.

Some circuits use the jumper wires to make unusual connections. Just clip them to the metal snaps or as indicated.

To use the radio, connect the earphone and battery eliminator to it as shown. Connect the wires from the battery eliminator to a circuit as shown in the projects.

Connect earphone

Insert eliminator

Press eliminator down into slot

Slide eliminator into position

This is a wire block which is blue and comes in different wire lengths. This one has the number , , ,

or on it depending on the length of

the wire connection required.

-3-

Note: While building the projects, be careful not to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this may damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.

Alternately, the radio may be operated independently of this product using two “AAA” batteries (not included). Be sure to install batteries with the (+) and (–) terminals as shown in the battery compartment.

How to Use It

The 3.6V rechargeable battery (B4) may have discharged during shipping and distribution. Recharge it as shown in project 3 and others.

Sometimes parts will be mounted on a pivot, so they can be adjusted for the best angle to the wind or sun. Assemble the pivot as shown here:

Insert post into pivot top, snapping into place.

Insert the other end of the post into pivot base.

Whenever the motor (M4) is used, it will have the wind fan or the water wheel placed on top; simply push the fan onto the shaft. To remove it, push up on it with a screwdriver or your thumbs, being careful not to break it.

Assembling the Liquid Power Source:

Connect the 3 electrode parts together with screws and nuts as shown. Tighten by hand, a screwdriver is not needed.

If the copper and zinc electrodes get corroded through use, use sandpaper, steel wool, or a scraper to remove the corrosion and improve performance.

Setting the time on the clock (T2):

• Press the left button to select what to change (month, date, hour, or minutes).

• Press the right button until it is correct.

• Press the left button until the time is showing, then press the right button once to start.

• The colon (“:”) will be flashing when the clock is running.

• Press the right button to display the date.

-4-

About Your Snap Circuits

Green Parts

(Part designs are subject to change without notice).

BASE GRID

The base grid is a platform for

mounting parts and wires.

It functions like the

printed circuit boards used in

most electronic

products, or like how

the walls are used for

mounting the electrical

wiring in your home.

SNAP WIRES & JUMPER WIRES

The blue snap wires

are wires used to

connect components.

They are used to

transport electricity and do

not affect circuit performance.

They come in different lengths to

allow orderly arrangement of connections

on the base grid.

The red and black jumper wires make flexible connections for times when using the snap wires would be difficult. They also are used to make connections off the base grid (like the projects using water).

Wires transport electricity just like pipes are used to transport water. The colorful plastic coating protects them and prevents electricity from getting in or out.

BATTERY

The battery (B4) contains a rechargeable battery and some supporting parts. This battery produces an electrical chemical reaction. This “voltage” can be thought of as electrical pressure, pushing electricity through a circuit just like a pump pushes water through pipes. This voltage is much lower and much safer than that used in your house wiring. Using more batteries increases the “pressure” and so more electricity flows.

voltage using a reversible

Battery (B4)

SOLAR CELL

The solar cell (B7) contains positively and negatively charged silicon crystals, arranged in layers that cancel each other out. When sunlight shines on it, charged particles in the light unbalance the silicon layers and produce an electrical voltage of up to 7V. The maximum current depends on the type of light and its brightness, but will be much less than a battery can produce. Bright sunlight works best, but incandescent light bulbs also work.

Solar Cell (B7)

LIQUID HOLDER & ELECTRODES

Electrodes

Liquid

Holder

Most sodas and fruit juices are lightly acidic. The acid is similar to the material used in some types of batteries but not nearly as strong. The acid will react with the copper and zinc electrodes to make an electric current, like a battery. Each of the four compartments in the liquid holder produces about 0.7V, but the current is very low and may not last long.

RADIO & BATTERY ELIMINATOR

Radio & Battery Eliminator

Radio uses electromagnetic waves to send information through the air. Snap Circuits includes a standard FM radio, and a battery eliminator to use with it. The radio can also be used with two 1.5V “AAA” type batteries (not included). The battery eliminator has circuitry to protect the radio from the higher voltages, which you can produce with this kit, since these could damage the radio.

-5-

About Your Snap Circuits

Green Parts

METER

The meter (M6) is an important measuring device. You will use it to measure the voltage (electrical pressure) and electricity is flowing) in a circuit.

Meter (M6)

The meter measures voltage when connected in parallel to a circuit and measures the current when connected in series in a circuit.

This meter has one voltage scale (5V) and two current scales (0.5mA and 50mA). These use the same meter but with internal components that scale the measurement into the desired range. Sometimes resistors in the pivot stand will be used to change the 5V scale to 10V, or the 0.5mA scale to 5mA.

current (how fast

Inside the meter there is a fixed magnet and a moveable coil around it. As current flows through the coil, it creates a magnetic field. The interaction of the two magnetic fields causes the coil (connected to the pointer) to move (deflect).

Pointer

Magnet

Contacts

Coil

MOTOR

The motor (M4) converts electricity into mechanical motion. An electric current through the motor will turn the shaft.

It can also be used as a generator, since it produces an electric current when the shaft is turned.

Motor Symbol

Fan

How does electricity turn the shaft in the motor? The answer is magnetism. Electricity is closely related to magnetism, and an electric current flowing in a wire has a magnetic field similar to that of a very, very tiny magnet. Inside the motor is a coil of wire with many loops. If a large electric current flows through the loops, the magnetic effects become concentrated enough to move the coil. The motor has a magnet inside, so as the electricity moves the coil to align it with the permanent magnet, the shaft spins.

When used as a generator, wind or water turns the shaft. A coil of wire is on the shaft, and as it spins past the permanent magnet an electric current is created in the wire.

Magnet

Shell

Shaft

Water Wheel

Power Contacts

Meter Symbol

Motor (M4)

Electromagnet

-6-

About Your Snap Circuits

Green Parts

The hand crank (HC) is a motor with a gearbox attached. The gearbox spins the motor shaft faster but with less force than you are turning the hand crank.

Hand Crank

PRESS SWITCH

The press switch (S2) connects (pressed, “ON”) or disconnects (not pressed, “OFF”) the wires in a circuit. When ON it has no effect on circuit performance. It turns on electricity just like a

faucet turns on water

from a pipe.

RED & YELLOW LEDsHAND CRANK

The red & yellow LED’s (D1 & D5) are light emitting diodes, and may be thought of as a special one-way light bulb. In the “forward” direction, (indicated by the “arrow” in the symbol) electricity flows if the voltage exceeds a turn-on threshold (about 1.5V for red and 2V for yellow); brightness then increases. A high current will burn out the LED, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit. LED’s block electricity in the “reverse” direction.

LED’s (D1) & (D5)

OTHER PARTS

The horn (W1) converts electricity into sound by making mechanical vibrations. These vibrations create variations in air pressure, which travel

across the room. You “hear”

sound when your ears feel

these air pressure

variations.

Horn (W1)

The clock (T2) contains a small crystal. When a crystal is struck by an electronic pulse, it vibrates. A microelectronic circuit makes the pulse and measures the vibration rate. The vibration rate is

used as a time

standard, from

which minutes,

hours, and the

date are

calculated.

Clock (T2)

Press Switch (S2)

SLIDE SWITCH

Slide Switch (S5)

no effect on circuit performance. It directs electricity just like a value controls water in a pipe.

-7-

The slide switch

(S5) connects

(ON) the center

snap to one of the

other two snaps.

When connected it has

CAPACITOR

The 470 pressure (voltage) for periods of time. This storage ability allows it to block stable voltage signals and pass changing ones. Capacitors are used for filtering and delay circuits.

F capacitor (C5) can store electrical

Capacitor (C5)

The pivot stand contains two resistors, 47Ω and 10KΩ. Resistors “resist” the flow of electricity and are used to control or limit the electricity in a circuit. Materials like metal have very low resistance (<1Ω), while materials like paper, plastic, and air have near-infinite resistance.

Increasing circuit

resistance reduces

the flow of

electricity.

Pivot Stand

DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits

After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a lamp, motor, electromagnet, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back.

You must be careful not to create “short circuits” (very low-resistance paths across the batteries, see examples below) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Elenco®Electronics is

not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.

Here are some important guidelines:

ALWAYS use eye protection when experimenting on your own.

ALWAYS include at least one component that will limit the current

through a circuit, such as an LED, clock, or horn.

ALWAYS use the switches in conjunction with other components that

will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a short circuit and/or damage those parts.

ALWAYS disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring

if something appears to be getting hot.

ALWAYS check your wiring before turning on a circuit.

NEVER connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.

NEVER touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.

For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.

Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!

Placing a 3-snap wire directly across a power source is a SHORT CIRCUIT.

NEVER

DO!

This is also a SHORT CIRCUIT.

NEVER

When the switch (S2) is

NEVER

DO!

You are encouraged to tell us about new circuits you create. If they are unique, we will post them with your name and state on our website at www.snapcircuits.net/kidkreations.htm. Send your suggestions to Elenco

Electronics: elenco@elenco.com.

turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.

DO!

Warning to Snap Circuits®owners: Use only parts

included in this kit to prevent damage. Our website www.snapcircuits.net has approved circuits that you can use.

Elenco®provides a circuit designer so that you can make your own Snap Circuits®drawings. This Microsoft®Word document can be downloaded from www.snapcircuits.net/SnapDesigner.doc or through the www.snapcircuits.net web site.

WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never connect your Snap

Circuits®set to the electrical outlets in your home in any way!

-8-

Advanced Troubleshooting

Red & black jumper wires: Set the meter

Elenco®Electronics is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.

If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:

1. Hand crank (HC), solar cell (B7), and

meter (M6):

the solar cell and set it to the 5V setting. Place the solar cell in sunlight or near a bright light source (incandescent light bulbs are best); the meter pointer should move. Then place the meter directly across the hand crank and turn the crank handle clockwise; the meter pointer should move for all the meter switch settings (5V, 0.5mA, and 50mA).

•

If the 5V meter setting works with the hand crank but not the solar cell, then the solar cell is damaged. Be sure you used a bright light source and removed any protective plastic wrap covering the solar cell.

• If the 5V meter setting works with the solar cell but not the hand crank, then the hand crank is damaged.

• If the 5V meter setting does not work with either the solar cell or the hand crank, then the meter is damaged.

• If the 5V meter setting works with the hand crank but the 0.5mA or 50mA meter settings do not, then the meter is damaged.

Place the meter directly across

to the 5V setting and use this circuit to test each jumper wire. Place the solar cell (B7) near the same light source you used in step

1. The jumper wire is damaged if the meter pointer does not move.

Snap wires: Set the meter to the 5V setting

3. and use this circuit to test each snap wire, one at a time. Place the solar cell (B7) near the same light source you used in step 1. The snap wire is damaged if the meter pointer does not move.

(Adult supervision recommended)

If you prefer, you can test all the snap wires at once using this circuit. If the meter pointer does not move, then test the snap wires one at a time to find the damaged one.

Press switch (S2): Set the meter to the 5V

4. setting and build this circuit. Place the solar cell (B7) near the same light source you used in step 1. If the meter pointer does not move when you press the switch, the switch is damaged.

Red and yellow LEDs (D1 & D5): Place

each LED directly across the hand crank (HC), without snapping it on. Make sure the “+” side of the LED matches the “+” side of the hand crank. Turn the crank handle clockwise; the LED will light unless it is damaged.

-9-

Advanced Troubleshooting

(continued)

6. Battery (B4): Build the circuit shown here and set the meter (M6) to the 5V setting.

• The meter will measure more than 3V if the battery is charged up.

• If the meter pointer does not move from zero then either the battery is completely discharged or it is damaged.

• Turn the hand crank (HC) clockwise and check that the yellow LED (D5) comes on when you crank fast (indicating that the crank is charging the battery).

• If the meter was measuring zero then turn the crank for at least 20 seconds with the yellow LED on to see if it can be recharged.

• If the battery cannot be recharged, then it is damaged.

• If the battery needs to be recharged, you can use this circuit or see project 3 for other charging circuits.

Slide switch (S5): Slide switch (S5): Build

this circuit and turn the hand crank (HC) clockwise until an LED lights. The red LED (D1) should light when the switch is in position B, and the yellow LED should light when the switch is in position C; otherwise the slide switch is damaged.

Clock (T2), 470

(W1), and motor (M4):

shown below, but remove the 470μF capacitor. Turn the hand crank (HC) clockwise and the clock display should turn on.

Add the 470μF capacitor back in; the clock

display should stay on for a while after you stop turning the crank; otherwise the capacitor is damaged.

• Replace the clock with the horn. Turning the crank should sound the horn.

• Replace the horn with the motor (“+” on top, the fan doesn’t matter). Turning the crank clockwise should spin the motor shaft clockwise.

Radio and battery eliminator: Build project

118. Turning the hand crank (HC) should operate the radio. The radio can be tested without the battery eliminator using two “AAA” type 1.5V batteries (not included).

F capacitor (C5), horn

Build the circuit

Pivot stand resistors: The pivot stand

10. base has resistors mounted inside; they can be tested using this circuit. Turn the hand crank (HC) clockwise to light the LEDs. If the slide switch (S5) is in position B then the yellow LED (D5) will be bright. If the slide switch is in position C, the red LED (D1) will be dim. If either LED does not light or the red one is brighter than the yellow then the pivot stand is damaged.

11. Check the remaining parts by inspecting them for damage.

Elenco®Electronics, Inc.

150 Carpenter Avenue

Wheeling, IL 60090 U.S.A.

Phone: (847) 541-3800

Fax: (847) 520-0085

e-mail: help@elenco.com

Website: www.elenco.com

You may order additional /

replacement parts at: www.snapcircuits.net

-10-

Project Listings

Project #

1 Crank Charger 13 2 Hand Cranking 13 3 Best Charging Circuits 14 4 Solar Power 15 5 Solar Motor 15 6 Solar Charger 16 7 Solar Charger 5mA 16 8 Windmill 17

9 Windy Lights 17 10 Multi Power 18 11 Battery Power 18 12 Wind Warning 19 13 Light Charger 19 14 Electric Circuit 20 15 Close the Door 21 16 Feeling Switchy 21 17 Voltage & Current 22 18 Light Emitting Diode 22 19 Resistors 23 20 Honk Your Horn 23 21 Clock 24 22 Capacitor 24 23 Motor 25

Description Page #

Project #

24 Water Wheel 25 25 Motor Voltage 25 26 Crank Motor 26 27 Crank Motor Voltage 26 28 Radio Current 27 29 Long Light 28 30 LED Currents 28 31 Battery Load 29 32 Battery Load Current 29 33 Make Your Own Parts 30 34 Liquid Resistors 30 35 Liquid Light 30 36 Moving Voltage 31 37 Moving More Voltage 31 38 Power Sources 32 39 Powering Clock 33 40 Powering Horn 33 41 Powering LED 33 42 Powering Big Voltage 33 43 Powering Big Current 33 44 Splitting Current 34 45 Splitting Current

Description Page #

Differently 34

Project #

46 Splitting Different

47 Voltage Order 35 48 Current Order 36 49 Sources in Series 37 50 Sources in Parallel 37 51 Two in Series 38 52 Two in Parallel 38 53 Sound Starter 39 54 Two Speed Motor 39 55 Big Blade Wind Horn 40 56 Windy Time 40 57 Wind Charger

58 Wind Charger

59 Kick Start Motor 41 60 Short Wind Power 42 61 Wind Horn 42 62 Liquid Battery 43 63 Juice Battery 43 64 Cola Light 44 65 Yellow Cola 44 66 Electricity From Water 45

Description Page #

Currents 34

with Light 41

with Horn 41

-11-

Project Listings

Project #

67 Water Light 45 68 Cola Clock 46 69 70 Changing Water

71 FM Radio 47 72 Hydro Lights 48 73 74 Using Stored Water 49 75 Water Redirection 49 76 One of the Most

77 78 Harnessing Static

79 80 Big Thrust 52 81 Solar Light Clock 53 82 Solar Light Charger 53 83 Solar Lights Row 54 84 Crank Support 54 85 Crank Charging 55

Description Page #

Cola Clock with Memory

Pressure to Electrical Pressure 47

Directional Wind Lights

Powerful Forces in the Universe 50

Electricity Against Water

Electricity 51 Storing Energy in Water

Project #

86 Crank Sound 55 87 Hand Lights 56 88 Hand Noise 56 89 Heavy Fan 57 90 Remote Heater 57 91 Remote Water Heater 58 92 Electrical Material

93 Morse Code 59 94 Morse Light 59 95 Everything Circuit 60 96 Light Signal for Radio 61 97 Light & Sound

98 Speed Indicator 62

99 Sound Pulse 62 100 Motor Speed LED 63 101 Energy Converter 63 102 Energy Conversion 64 103 104 Mechanical Energy

105 Triple Current Meter 65 106 Clock with Memory 65

Description Page #

Checker 58

Signal for Radio 61

Small Energy Conversion

Conversion 64

Project #

107 Capacitor Charging 66 108 Stopped Motor Alarm 66 109 Saving Energy 67 110 111 Regulating Power 68 112 Sun & Wind Light 68 113 Hybrid 69 114 Hybrid Car Concept 69 115 LED or Bulb? 70 116 Water Timer 70 117 Solar Fan 71 118 Hand Radio 71 119 Hand Charger 72 120 Parallel Cranking 72 121 Hard to Crank 73 122 Slow In Flash Out 73 123 Filling Station 74 124 Gas Pedal 74 125 Volt Meter 75 126 Anemometer 75 127 Current Meter 76 128 Wind Direction 76 129 Windy Radio 77

Description Page #

Energy Transmission Loss

-12-

Project #1 Crank Charger

Although the battery is rated as 3.6V, it may charge to as high as 4.0V. If you are monitoring the voltage using the meter, you may see the voltage quickly reach 3.6V, but this does not mean that the battery is fully charged. When the battery is discharging to power something, the voltage is nearly steady for a long while then drops off quickly. The same thing occurs when it is charging. Recharging the battery will quickly reach around 3.6V but it needs much more charging to avoid a quick drop-off when discharging.

Build the circuit shown here and set the meter (M6) to the 5V setting. The meter will measure about 3.6V if the battery is charged up.

Project #2

Turn the hand crank (HC) clockwise. The yellow LED (D5) comes on when you crank fast, indicating that the crank is charging the battery.

If the battery needs to be recharged, you can use this circuit to charge it.

Hand Cranking

Build the circuit shown by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the clear plastic base grid first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2, and finally the parts marked with a 3. Be sure to place the parts with their (+) side oriented as shown. Place the wind fan on the motor (M4) shaft. Turn the handle on the hand crank (HC) in both directions to make things happen.

Warning: the hand crank is sturdy but not indestructible. If you push hard on it or crank it really fast you may break it.

The hand crank uses magnetism to change the mechanical energy of the spinning shaft into electricity.

-13-

Placement Level

Numbers

Project #3 Best Charging Circuits

Your rechargeable battery (B4) will need to be recharged often; use any of these circuits. Place the solar cell in sunlight or about 12 inches from an incandescent light bulb of 60W or more. It takes a few hours to charge the battery. Fluorescent lights do not work well with solar cells. You can’t hurt the battery by overcharging.

Circuit #1: The solar cell is on the pivot so you can adjust it for best angle to your light source, and uses the meter (M6) to measure the voltage.

Circuit #2: The solar cell is on the pivot so you can adjust it for best angle to your light source.

Circuit #3: This uses only a few parts, so you can build many of the other circuits while charging the battery.

Best angle adjustment to light

1 2 3

source with voltage measurement:

Best angle adjustment to light source: Minimum parts:

ASSEMBLING PIVOT STAND

Place base on

1 2 3

flat level surface.

Snap ball on pivot post into pivot top.

Insert post into base.

-14-

Project #4

ASSEMBLING PIVOT STAND

Place base on

1 2 3

flat level surface.

Snap ball on pivot post into pivot top.

Insert post into base.

Solar Power

Assemble the pivot, mount the solar cell (B7) on it, and place it in the circuit as shown. Place all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the clear plastic base grid first, then parts marked with a 2, and finally the parts marked with a 3.

Connect the solar cell to the circuit using the red and black jumper wires. Place the circuit so the solar cell is in bright sunlight or close to an incandescent light bulb. Set the meter (M6) to the 5V setting.

The meter is measuring the voltage produced by the solar cell. Adjust the position of the position of the solar cell on the pivot to see how the voltage produced changes depending on the angle to the light source and the brightness.

Position the solar cell to make the highest voltage you can. Now push the press switch to run the yellow LED (D5) with the solar cell. Notice how the voltage produced drops when the LED is connected.

Note: The voltage produced is actually twice that shown on the meter (so a 3V reading is really 6V), because a resistor in the pivot stand is changing the scale.

Part B: Replace the yellow LED with the red LED (D1) and press the switch. See how much it affects the solar cell voltage.

Your solar cell makes electricity from sunlight, but only a small amount. In bright sunlight it produces a voltage of about 7V, but this is reduced when lots of current is flowing. That is why the voltage drops when you connect the yellow LED.

-15-

Project #5 Solar Motor

The motor needs less electricity from the solar cell as it speeds up, so the solar cell voltage is higher as the motor gets faster.

In the preceding circuit, replace the yellow LED (D5) with the motor (M4, in either direction) and place the wind fan on it. Now press the switch and watch how the voltage changes as the solar cell runs the fan. Depending on your light source, the fan may need a push to get started or may not work at all.

Project #6

Solar Charger

Project #7

50mA

0.5mA

Assemble the pivot, mount the solar cell (B7) on it, and place it in the circuit as shown. Connect the solar cell to the circuit using the red and black jumper wires. Place the circuit so the solar cell is in bright sunlight or near an incandescent light bulb. Set the meter (M6) to the 0.5mA or 50mA setting.

The solar cell is charging the battery and the meter is measuring the current. The current depends on the type and brightness of your light source, and how much your battery needs recharging. Adjust the position of the solar cell to make the highest current; in bright sunlight it will be around 10mA.

When placed in sunlight or about 12 inches from a 60W incandescent light bulb, the solar cell will typically recharge the battery in a few hours. Current will flow into the battery even when it is fully charged. You can’t hurt the battery by overcharging with the power sources in this kit.

Solar energy is free, abundant, and causes no pollution. However it is difficult to harvest it because even low power solar cells are expensive.

Solar Charger 5mA

0.5mA

Modify the preceding circuit to match this one. Set the meter (M6) to the 0.5mA setting. Place the solar in sunlight or near an incandescent light bulb. The solar cell is charging the battery and the meter is measuring the current.

This circuit uses a resistor in the pivot stand to change the 0.5mA scale on the meter to a 5 mA scale, so read the current on the 0-5 scale. Charging current is usually in this range. Place your hand above the solar cell to see how easily the current changes, and try different light sources.

-16-

Project #8 Windmill

Assemble the pivot, mount the wind fan on the motor (M4), mount the motor on the pivot, place the pivot on the base grid and connect it to the meter (M6) using the red and black jumper wires. Set the meter to the 5V setting.

Blow on the fan or place it in a strong wind (either outside or near an electric fan). You may need to give the fan a push to get it started. The meter measures how much voltage your “windmill” produces. Adjust the pivot position to see how the voltage produced changes with the angle to the wind.

The windmill uses magnetism to change the mechanical energy of the spinning shaft into electricity. The voltage it produces is usually lower than the solar cell, but the current is higher.

ASSEMBLING PIVOT STAND

Place base on

1 2 3

flat level surface.

Snap ball on pivot post into pivot top.

Project #9

Insert post into base.

Windy Lights

Build the circuit shown. Set the meter to the 5V setting. Blow on the fan or place it in a strong wind (either outside or near an electric fan). The meter measures how much voltage your “windmill” produces. You may need to give the fan a push to get it started.

Push the press switch (S2) to connect one of the LEDs (D1 & D5) to the windmill. The voltage produced drops a little, but not as much as for the solar cell circuits. Flip the slide switch (S5) to try the other LED. Compare the brightness of the LEDs at different wind speeds.

-17-

Project #10 Multi Power

Build the circuit shown. Set the

meter to the 5V setting. The meter measures the voltage produced by the windmill, solar cell, and hand crank, which are connected to work together.

You can change the meter setting to 50mA, to measure the current produced.

Project #11 Battery Power

The red and yellow LEDs (D1 & D5) are used here to keep the different power sources from interfering with each other, by controlling the direction electricity flows.

Make sure the battery is charged up (see projects 1-3). Build the circuit with the motor and fan on the pivot stand, and connect the jumper wires as shown. Set the slide switch (S5) to position B to turn on the circuit. The battery runs the clock display (T2), horn (W1), red LED (D1), and windmill (M4). Push the press switch (S2) and the hand crank (HC) will also spin.

Part B: Set the slide switch to position C to disconnect the battery, and blow on the fan or place it in a strong wind. See if your “windmill” will run things as well as the battery, and for how long.

Part C: Leave the slide switch at position C and push the press switch while turning the hand crank to see how well it runs things. Try cranking it in both directions.

See projects 1 & 3

if you need to

recharge the battery (B4).

The battery can store lots of energy, so it can run lots of things for a while. It is available whenever you need it, at the flip of a switch.

-18-

Project #12 Wind Warning

Build the circuit as shown, with the motor on the pivot. Blow on the fan or place it in a strong

wind. Depending on the wind direction and the setting of the slide switch (S5), you may see lights or hear sound. You may need to give the fan a push to get it started.

This circuit can be used to warn you of dangerous winds.

Light ChargerProject #13

-19-

This circuit uses the solar cell (B7) to charge the rechargeable battery (B4). Place the solar cell in sunlight or near an incandescent light bulb. The red LED (D1) lights when the battery is being charged. The brighter the LED, the faster it is charging.

Project #14 Electric Circuit

Build the circuit shown and push the press switch (S2) to turn on red LED (D1).

Educational Corner:

What is really happening here?

1.The battery (B4, containing a 3.6V rechargeable battery with protection circuitry) converts chemical energy into electrical energy and “pushes” it through the circuit, just like the electricity from your power company. A battery pushes electricity through a circuit just like a pump pushes water through a pipe.

2.The snap wires (the blue pieces) carry the electricity around the circuit, just like wires carry electricity around your home. Wires carry electricity just like pipes carry water.

3.The press switch (S2) controls the electricity by turning it on or off, just like a light switch on the wall of your home. A switch controls electricity like a faucet controls water.

4.The red LED (D1, a “light emitting diode”) converts electrical energy into light; it is similar to lights in your home. An LED shows how much electricity is flowing in a circuit like a water meter shows how fast water flows in a pipe.

See projects 1 & 3 if you need to

recharge the battery (B4).

5.The base grid is a platform for mounting the circuit, just like how wires are mounted in the walls of your home to control the lights.

Comparing Electric Flow to Water Flow:

Electric Paths

Switch

Battery

LED

Valve

Pump

Water Meter

-20-

Project #15 Close the Door

Project #16

See projects 1 & 3 if you need to

recharge the battery (B4).

Build the circuit shown. The slide and press switches (S5 & S2) control the lights.

Feeling

The “on” position of a switch is also called the “closed” position. Similarly, the “off” position is also called the “open” position. This is because the symbol for a slide switch is similar to the symbol for a door in an architect’s drawing of a room:

Walls

Door

The electronics symbol for a slide switch should be thought of as a door to a circuit, which swings open when the switch is off. The “door” to the circuit is closed when the switch is on. This is shown here:

Your S5 switch has 2 positions, so it has a different symbol:

Build the circuit shown and push the press switch (S2) to turn on light or sound. Switches can be arranged in many different ways.

-21-

Switchy

The press switch allows electricity to flow from the battery to the circuit, and the slide switch (S5) directs the electricity to either the yellow LED (D5) or the horn (W1). These switches are like many switches in your home, controlling lights and many other things.

Open Switch (turned off) Closed Switch (turned on)

Left Switch Position Open

Right Switch Position Closed

(turned off)

(turned on),

right LED controlled by press

switch

Left Switch Position

Closed (turned on)

Right Switch Position

Open (turned off)

Project #17 Voltage & Current

See projects 1 & 3 if you need to recharge the battery (B4).

Build the circuit shown. Set the meter (M6) to the 5V setting. Push the switch (S2) to connect the meter to the battery and measure its voltage.

Electricity is the movement of subatomic charged particles (called

electrons) through a material due

to electrical pressure across the material, such as from a battery.

The electrical pressure exerted by a battery or other power source is called voltage and is measured in

volts (V). Notice the “+” and “–”

signs on the battery. These indicate which direction the battery will “pump” the electricity.

Circuits need the right voltage to work properly. For example, if the voltage to a light bulb is too low then the bulb won’t turn on; if too

Light Emitting DiodeProject #18

high then the bulb will overheat and burn out.

The electric current is a measure of how fast electricity is flowing in a wire, just as the water current describes how fast water is flowing in a pipe. It is expressed in

amperes (A) or milliamps (mA,

1/1000 of an ampere).

The “power” of electricity is a measure of how fast energy is moving through a wire. It is a combination of the voltage and current (Power = Voltage x Current). It is expressed in watts (W).

50mA

Build the circuit shown. Set the meter (M6) to the 50mA setting.

For each of the slide switch (S5) positions, push the press switch (S2) to measure the current through one of the LEDs (D1 & D5). Then change the slide switch (S5) to measure the current with the other LED, and compare them.

Now set the meter to the 5V setting, and compare the voltage measured with each LED. The voltage for both should be lower than what you measured directly at the battery in the preceding project, due to the voltage needed to turn on the LEDs.

Light emitting diodes (LEDs) are one-way lights with a turn-on voltage threshold. If the voltage is high enough, they will light. The yellow LED (D5) requires a higher voltage to turn it on, but can get brighter.

When electric current flows through an LED, energy is released as light; the color depends on the material. LEDs are much more energy efficient and last longer than ordinary light bulbs but were only used in low-power applications due to power limits, cost, and limited colors. However, LEDs are rapidly being improved and are increasingly being used in home lighting.

-22-

Project #19 Resistors

50mA

Build the circuit shown. Set the meter (M6) to the 50mA setting and the slide switch (S5) to position C. The pivot stand base has 47Ω and 10KΩ resistors in it. They are used to control the flow of electricity in a circuit.

Push the press switch (S2) to measure the current through the 47Ω resistor; it should be around 50mA.

To measure the current through the 10KΩ resistor, set the meter to the 0.5mA setting and the slide switch to position B. Push the press switch to show the current, it should be around 0.4mA. The current is much lower this time, because the 10KΩ is a higher value resistor.

The meter has internal resistors, which scale the measurement it makes into the ranges indicated on it. The 10KΩ resistor can be used with it to double the voltage scale to 10V. Keep the slide switch in position B, set the meter to the 5V setting, and push the press switch to measure the battery voltage using a 10V scale (double what you read on the 5V scale).

See projects 1 & 3 if you need to recharge the battery (B4).

50mA

The resistance of a circuit represents how much it resists the electrical pressure (voltage) and limits the flow of electric current. The relationship is Voltage = Current x Resistance. When there is more resistance, less current will flow unless you increase the voltage. Resistance is measured in ohms (Ω), or kilo ohms (KΩ, 1000 ohms).

What is Resistance? Take your hands and rub them together very fast. Your hands should feel warm. The friction between your hands converts your effort into heat. Resistance is the electrical friction between an electric current and the material it is flowing through; it is the loss of energy from electrons as they move through the material.

Honk Your HornProject #20

The horn converts electricity into sound energy by making mechanical vibrations. These vibrations create variations in air pressure, which travel across the room. You “hear” sound when your ears feel these air pressure variations.

-23-

Build the circuit, set the meter (M6) to the 50mA setting. Push the switch (S2) to “honk” the horn (W1), while the meter measures the current through it.

Compare the current with the horn to the current using the LEDs and resistors in projects 18 and 19.

+ 56 hidden pages

Elenco Green Projects User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual