Elenco Electronics 202 User Manual

Catalog # 28-287 REV-C Revised 2008 753296
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Basic Troubleshooting 1 How to Use It 2 Parts List 3, 4 About Your Snap KitsTMParts 5, 6 Advanced Troubleshooting 7, 8 DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits 9
Table of Contents
1. Most circuit problems are due to incorrect assembly, always double­check that your circuit exactly matches the drawing for it.
2. Be sure that parts with positive/negative markings are positioned as per the drawing.
3. Sometimes the light bulbs come loose, tighten them as needed. Use care since glass bulbs can shatter.
4. Be sure that all connections are securely snapped.
5. Try replacing the batteries.
6. If the motor spins but does not balance the fan, check the black plastic piece with three prongs on the motor shaft. Be sure that it is at the top of the shaft.
Radio Shack is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
Basic Troubleshooting
Note: If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow the Advanced
Troubleshooting procedure on page 7 to determine which ones need replacing.
Copyright © 2008 by Elenco®Electronics, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced by any means; electronic, photocopying, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher.
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never connect Snap KitsTMto the
electrical outlets in your home in any way!
WARNING: Always check your wiring
before turning on a circuit. Never leave a circuit unattended while the batteries are installed. Never connect additional batteries or any other power sources to your circuits. Discard any cracked or broken parts.
WARNING TO ALL PARTS WITH A SYMBOL - Moving parts. Do not touch the motor or fan during operation.
Do not lean over the motor. Do not launch the fan at people, animals, or objects. Eye protection is recommended.
!
!
!
Batteries:
Use only 1.5V AA type, alkaline batteries (not incl.).
• Insert batteries with correct polarity.
• Non-rechargeable batteries should not be recharged. Rechargeable batteries should only be charged under adult supervision, and should not be recharged while in the product.
• Do not mix alkaline, standard (carbon-zinc), or rechargeable (nickel-cadmium) batteries.
• Do not mix old and new batteries.
• Remove batteries when they are used up.
• Do not short circuit the battery terminals.
• Never throw batteries in a fire or attempt to open its outer casing.
• Batteries are harmful if swallowed, so keep away from small children.
!
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The Radio Shack Snap KitsTMhas 303 projects. They are simple to build and understand.
Snap Kits
TM
uses building blocks with snaps to build the different electrical and electronic circuits in the projects. Each block has a function: there are switch blocks, lamp blocks, battery blocks, different length wire blocks, etc. These blocks are in different colors and have numbers on them so that you can easily identify them. The circuit you will build is shown in color and numbers, identifying the blocks that you will use and snap together to form a circuit.
For Example:
This is the switch block which is green and has the marking on it as shown in the drawings. Please note that the drawing doesn’t reflect the real switch block exactly (it is missing the ON and OFF markings), but gives you the general idea of which part is being used in the circuit.
This is a wire block which is blue and comes in different wire lengths. They have the number , , , , , or on them depending on the length of the wire connection required.
There is also a 1-snap wire that is used as a spacer or for interconnection between different layers.
To build each circuit, you have a power source block number that needs two (2) “AA” batteries (not included with Snap Kits
TM
).
A large clear plastic base grid is included with this kit to help keep the circuit block together. You will see evenly spaced posts that the different blocks snap into. You do not need this base to build your circuits, but it does help in keeping your circuit together neatly. The base has rows labeled A-G and columns labeled 1-10.
Next to each part in every circuit drawing is a small number in black. This tells you which level the component is placed at. Place all parts on level 1 first, then all of the parts on level 2, then all of the parts on level 3, etc.
The 6V bulb comes packaged separate from its socket. Install the bulb in the lamp socket whenever that part is used.
Place the fan on the motor whenever that part is used, unless the project you are building says not to use it.
Note: While building the projects, be careful not to accidentally make a direct connection across the battery holder (a “short circuit”), as this will damage and/or quickly drain the batteries.
How To Use It
S1
2 3 4 5 7
M1
L2
B1
6
Qty. ID Name Symbol Part # Qty. ID Name Symbol Part #
1
Base Grid (11.0” x 7.7”)
6SCBG 1 Slide Switch 6SCS1
6 1-Snap Wire 6SC01 1 Press Switch 6SCS2
9 2-Snap Wire 6SC02 2
Battery Holder - uses two 1.5V type AA (not included)
6SCB1
4 3-Snap Wire 6SC03 1 Speaker 6SCSP
2 4-Snap Wire 6SC04 1
Music Integrated Circuit
6SCU1
1 5-Snap Wire 6SC05 1
Alarm Integrated Circuit
6SCU2
1 6-Snap Wire 6SC06 1
Space War Integrated Circuit
6SCU3
1 7-Snap Wire 6SC07
1 1
6V Lamp Socket 6V Bulb (6.2V, 0.3A) (R. S. p/n 272-1130)
6SCL2
6SCL2B
1 Photoresistor 6SCRP 1 Antenna Coil 6SCA1
1 1
Electromagnet Iron Core Rod
6SCM3
6SCM3B
2 Two-spring Socket 6SC?1
A1
L2
6
5
4
3
2
1
S1
S2
RP
U3
U2
U1
SP
B1
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Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers
Note: If you have model RS-303, then there are additional part lists in your other project manuals.
7
M3
?1
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged in shipping, DO NOT RETURN TO RADIO SHACK. Call toll-free 1-800-THE-SHACK.
Qty. ID Name Symbol Part # Qty. ID Name Symbol Part #
1 1
Motor Fan
6SCM1
6SCM1F
1 Adjustable Resistor 6SCRV
1
Red Light Emitting Diode (LED)
6SCD1 1 100Ω Resistor 6SCR1
1
Green Light Emitting Diode (LED)
6SCD2 1 1KΩ Resistor 6SCR2
1 0.02μF Capacitor 6SCC1 1 5.1kΩ Resistor 6SCR3
1 0.1μF Capacitor 6SCC2 1 10kΩ Resistor 6SCR4
1 10μF Capacitor 6SCC3 1 100kΩ Resistor 6SCR5
1 100μF Capacitor 6SCC4 1
High Frequency Integrated Circuit
6SCU5
1 470μF Capacitor 6SCC5 1 PNP Transistor 6SCQ1
1 Variable Capacitor 6SCCV 1 NPN Transistor 6SCQ2
1 Three-spring Socket 6SC?Q
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D2
C1
C2
U5
R5
R4
R3
C4
C3
Q1
Note: If you have model RS-303, then there are additional part lists in your other project manuals.
Parts List (Colors and styles may vary) Symbols and Numbers
D1
R1
R2
Q2
RV
CV
C5
M1
?Q
Important: If any parts are missing or damaged in shipping, DO NOT RETURN TO RADIO SHACK. Call toll-free 1-800-THE-SHACK.
Note: If you have Model RS-303, there is additional information in
your other project manual.
The base grid functions like the printed circuit boards found in most electronic products. It is a platform for mounting parts and wires (though the wires are usually “printed” on the board).
The blue snap wires are just wires used to connect other components, they are used to transport electricity and do not affect circuit performance. They come in different lengths to allow orderly arrangement of connections on the base grid.
The
batteries (B1) produce an electrical voltage using a chemical
reaction. This “voltage” can be thought of as electrical pressure, pushing electrical “current” through a circuit. This voltage is much lower and much safer than that used in your house wiring. Using more batteries increases the “pressure” and so more electricity flows.
The
slide switch (S1) connects (ON) or disconnects (OFF) the
wires in a circuit. When ON, it has no effect on circuit performance.
The press switch (S2) connects (pressed) or disconnects (not pressed) the wires in a circuit, just like the slide switch does.
Resistors “resist” the flow of electricity and are used to control or limit the electricity in a circuit. Snap KitsTMincludes 100Ω (R1), 1KΩ
(R2), 5.1KΩ (R3), 10KΩ (R4), and 100KΩ (R5) resistors
(“K” symbolizes 1,000, so R2 is really 1,000Ω). Increasing circuit resistance reduces the flow of electricity.
The
adjustable resistor (RV) is a 50KΩ resistor but with a center
tap that can be adjusted between 0Ω and 50KΩ. At the 0Ω setting, the current must be limited by the other components in the circuit.
The
photoresistor (RP) is a light-sensitive resistor, its value
changes from nearly infinite in total darkness to about 1,000Ω when a bright light shines on it.
A light bulb, such as in the
6V lamp (L2), contains a special wire
that glows bright when a large electric current passes through it. Voltages above the bulb’s rating can burn out the wire.
The motor (M1) converts elecricity into mechanical motion. Electricity is closely related to magnetism, and an electric current flowing in a wire has a magnetic field similar to that of a very, very tiny magnet. Inside the motor is three coils of wire with many loops. If a large electric current flows through the loops, the magnetic effects become concentrated enough to move the coils. The motor has a magnet inside so, as the electricity moves the coils to align them with the permanent magnet, the shaft spins.
The
speaker (SP) converts electricity into sound. It does this by
using the energy of a changing electrical signal to create mechanical vibrations (using a coil and magnet similar to that in the motor), these vibrations create variations in air pressure which travel across the room. You “hear” sound when your ears feel these air pressure variations.
The
red LED (D1) and green LED (D2) are light emitting diodes,
and may be thought of as special one-way light bulbs. In the “forward” direction (indicated by the “arrow” in the symbol) electricity flows if the voltage exceeds a turn-on threshold (about
1.5V); brightness then increases. A high current will burn out an LED, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit. LED’s block electricity in the “reverse” direction.
Capacitors are components that can store electrical pressure (voltage) for periods of time, higher values have more storage. Because of this storage ability they block unchanging voltage signals and pass fast changing voltages. Capacitors are used for filtering and oscillation circuits. Snap Kits
TM
includes 0.02μF (C1),
0.1μF (C2), 10μF (C3), 10μF (C4), 470μF (C5) capacitors, and a variable capacitor (CV).
The variable capacitor can be adjusted from .00004 to .00022μF and is used in high frequency radio circuits for tuning.
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About Your Snap KitsTMParts (Part designs are subject to change without notice).
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Some types of electronic components can be super-miniaturized, allowing many thousands of parts to fit into an area smaller that your fingernail. These “integrated circuits” (IC’s) are used in everything from simple electronic toys to the most advanced computers. The music, alarm, and space war IC’s (U1, U2, and U3) in Snap Kits
TM
are actually modules containing specialized sound-generation IC’s and other supporting components (resistors, capacitors, and transistors) that are always needed with them. This was done to simplify the connections you need to make to use them. The descriptions for these modules are given here for those interested, see the projects for connection examples:
The
antenna (A1) contains a coil of wire wrapped around an iron
bar. Although it has magnetic effects similar to those in the motor, those effects are tiny and may be ignored except at high frequencies (like in AM radio). Its magnetic properties allow it to concentrate radio signals for reception. At lower frequencies the antenna acts like an ordinary wire.
The
PNP (Q1) and NPN (Q2) transistors are components that
use a small electric current to control a large current, and are used in switching, amplifier, and buffering applications. They are easy to miniaturize, and are the main building blocks of integrated circuits including the microprocessor and memory circuits in computers. Projects #124-125 and #128-133 demonstrate their properties. A high current may damage a transistor, so the current must be limited by other components in the circuit.
The
electromagnet (M3) is a large coil of wire, which acts like a
magnet when a current flows through it. Placing an iron bar inside increases the magnetic effects. Note that magnets can erase magnetic media like floppy disks.
The
two-spring socket (?1) and 3-spring socket (?Q) are
described on pages 11-12.
The
high frequency IC (U5) is a specialized amplifier used only in
high frequency radio circuits. A description of it is given here for those interested:
High Frequency IC:
INP - input connection (2 points are same) OUT - output connection (–) power return to batteries
See project #224 for example of connections.
INP INP(–)
OUT
(+)
HLD
OUT
(–)
TRG
IN1
(–)
IN2
IN3
OUT
IN1
(+)
OUT
IN2
(–)
Music IC:
(+) - power from batteries (–) - power return to batteries OUT - output connection HLD - hold control input TRG - trigger control input
Music for ~20 sec on power-up, then hold HLD to (+) power or touch TRG to (+) power to resume music.
Space War IC:
(+) - power from batteries (–) - power return to batteries OUT - output connection IN1, IN2 - control inputs
Connect each control input to (–) power to sequence through 8 sounds.
Alarm IC:
IN1, IN2, IN3 - control inputs (–) - power return to batteries OUT - output connection
Connect control inputs to (+) power to make five alarm sounds, see project #22 for configurations.
About Your Snap KitsTMParts (continued) (Part designs are subject to change without notice).
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Advanced Troubleshooting (Adult supervision recommended)
Radio Shack is not responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
If you suspect you have damaged parts, you can follow this procedure to systematically determine which ones need replacing:
1. 6V lamp (L2), motor (M1), speaker (SP), and battery holder
(B1):
Place batteries in holder and install bulb in lamp socket. Place the 6V lamp directly across the battery holder, it should light. Do the same with the motor (motor + to battery +), it should spin to the right at high speed. “Tap” the speaker across the battery holder contacts, you should hear static as it touches. If none work, then replace your batteries and repeat. If still bad, then the battery holder is damaged.
2.
Snap wires: Use this mini-
circuit to test the 5-snap and 6-snap wires. The lamp should light. Then test each of the 1-snap, 2-snap, 3­snap, 4-snap, and 7-snap wires by connecting them between the ends of the 5­snap and 6-snap.
3.
Slide switch (S1) and Press switch (S2): Build project #1, if
the lamp (L2) doesn’t light then the slide switch is bad. Replace the slide switch with the press switch to test it.
4.
LED’s (D1 & D2) and 100Ω (R1), 1KΩ (R2), 5.1KΩ (R3), and 10KΩ (R4) resistors:
Build project #7 except initially use the speaker (SP) in place of the LED, you will hear static if the resistor is good. Then replace the speaker with the LED and see if it lights.
Then, replace the 100Ω resistor with each of the other resistors, the LED should light, but the brightness decreases with the higher value resistors. Test the green LED in the same manner.
5. Alarm IC (U2): Build project #17, you should hear a siren. Then place a 3-snap wire between grid locations A1 & C1, the sound is different. Then move the 3-snap from A1-C1 to A3-C3 to hear a third sound.
6.
Music IC (U1): Build project #74 but use the press switch (S2)
in place of the photoresistor (RP). Turn it on and the LED (D1) flickers for a while and stops. It resumes if you press and hold down the press switch. Then, touch a 3-snap wire across base grid points A1 & C1 and the flickering resumes for a while.
7.
Space war IC (U3) and photoresistor (RP): Build project #19,
both switches (S1 & S2) should change the sound. Then replace either switch with the photoresistor, waving your hand over it should change the sound.
8.
NPN transistor (Q2): Build the mini-circuit shown here. The LED
(D2) should be on only when the press switch (S2) is pressed.
9.
PNP transistor (Q1): Build the mini-circuit shown here. The LED
(D2) should be on only when the press switch (S2) is pressed.
10. Antenna (A1): Build project #246, the LED (D1) should flash
when you release the press switch (S2).
Advanced Troubleshooting (continued) (Adult supervision recommended)
11.
Adjustable resistor (RV): Build project #204 but use the 1KΩ
resistor (R2) in place of the photoresistor (RP). Turn on the slide switch (S1), the resistor control can turn the LED (D1) on and off.
12. 100μF (C4) and 470μF capacitor (C5): Build project #49, then press and release the press switch (S2). The LED (D1) should go off slowly. Replace the 470μF with the 100μF and the LED is only lit for about 4 seconds now.
13.
100KΩ resistor (R5) and 0.02μF (C1), 0.1μF (C2), and 10μF (C3) capacitors:
Build project #163, but replace the 100KΩ resistor with the photoresistor (RP) and cover it. You will hear a whining or clicking sound unless the 0.02μF capacitor is bad. Now place the 100KΩ resistor back in the circuit, you hear a whining sound unless the 100KΩ is bad. Replace the 0.02μF with the 0.1μF, the sound should be different (lower frequency) or the 0.1μF is bad. Replace the 0.1μF with the 10μF, t h e circuit will “click” about once a second unless the 10μF is bad.
14.
Variable Capacitor (CV): Build project #169 and place it near
an AM radio, tune the radio and the capacitor to verify you hear the music on your radio.
15.
High Frequency IC (U5): Build project #224 and adjust the
variable capacitor (CV) until you hear a radio station.
16.
Electromagnet (M3): Build the mini-circuit shown here. Lamp
(L2) must be dim, and must get brighter when you press the press switch (S2).
Note: If you have RS-303, there are additional tests in your other project manual.
For more information, contact:
Radio Shack Corporation
Fort Worth, TX 76102
Call us at
1-800-THE-SHACK
or visit us online at
www.radioshack.com
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DO’s and DON’Ts of Building Circuits
After building the circuits given in this booklet, you may wish to experiment on your own. Use the projects in this booklet as a guide, as many important design concepts are introduced throughout them. Every circuit will include a power source (the batteries), a resistance (which might be a resistor, lamp, motor, integrated circuit, etc.), and wiring paths between them and back.
You must be careful not to create “short circuits” (very low-resistance paths across the batteries, see examples below) as this will damage components and/or quickly drain your batteries. Only connect the IC’s using configurations given in the
projects, incorrectly doing so may damage them. Radio Shack is not
responsible for parts damaged due to incorrect wiring.
Here are some important guidelines:
ALWAYS
use eye protection when experimenting on your own.
ALWAYS
include at least one component that will limit the current through a circuit, such as the speaker, lamp, capacitors, IC’s (which must be connected properly), motor, photoresistor, or resistors (the adjustable resistor doesn’t count if it’s set at/near minimum resistance).
ALWAYS
use LED’s, transistors, the high frequency IC, the antenna, and switches in conjunction with other components that will limit the current through them. Failure to do so will create a short circuit and/or damage those parts.
ALWAYS
connect the adjustable resistor so that if set to its 0 setting, the current will be limited by other components in the circuit.
ALWAYS
connect position capacitors so that the “+” side gets the higher voltage.
ALWAYS
disconnect your batteries immediately and check your wiring if something appears to be getting hot.
ALWAYS
check your wiring before turning on a circuit.
ALWAYS
connect IC’s using configurations given in the projects or as per the connection descriptions for the parts.
NEVER
try to use the high frequency IC as a transistor (the packages are similar, but the parts are different).
NEVER
connect to an electrical outlet in your home in any way.
NEVER
leave a circuit unattended when it is turned on.
NEVER
touch the motor when it is spinning at high speed.
For all of the projects given in this book, the parts may be arranged in different ways without changing the circuit. For example, the order of parts connected in series or in parallel does not matter — what matters is how combinations of these sub-circuits are arranged together.
Examples of SHORT CIRCUITS - NEVER DO THESE!!!
WARNING: SHOCK HAZARD - Never connect Snap KitsTMto the
electrical outlets in your home in any way!
Placing a 3-snap wire directly across the batteries is a SHORT CIRCUIT.
This is also a SHORT CIRCUIT.
When the slide switch (S1) is turned on, this large circuit has a SHORT CIRCUIT path (as shown by the arrows). The short circuit prevents any other portions of the circuit from ever working.
!
!
!
!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
NEVER
DO!
!
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The two-spring socket (?1) just has two springs, and won’t do anything by itself. It is not used in any of the experiments. It was included to make it easy to connect other electronic components to your Snap Kits
TM
. It should only be used by advanced users who
are creating their own circuits.
There are many different types of electronic components and basic parts, like resistors and capacitors, that have a wide range of available values. For example, your Snap Kits
TM
includes five fixed­value resistors (100Ω, 1KΩ, 5.1KΩ, 10KΩ, and 100KΩ). This is a very limited choice of values, and difficult to design circuits with. Your Snap Kits
TM
also includes an adjustable resistor (RV), but it is difficult to set this part to a particular value. You can place your resistors in series and parallel to make different values, but this is also difficult with only five values to choose from.
The two-spring socket (?1) makes it easy to connect your own resistors (and other parts) to circuits by connecting them between the springs:
Any component with two wires coming from it (called leads) can be connected with the two-spring socket (?1), assuming the leads are long enough. Usually you will connect different values of resistors or capacitors, but other components like LED’s, diodes, or coils/inductors can also be used. You can usually find electronic components at any Radio Shack store.
You can design your own circuits or substitute new parts into the projects in the manuals. For LED’s, diodes, or electrolytic capacitors, be sure to connect your parts using the correct polarity or you may damage them. Never exceed the voltage ratings of any parts. RADIO SHACK IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PARTS DAMAGED BY IMPROPER CIRCUIT DESIGN OR WIRING.
Never connect to external voltages. The two-spring socket is only intended for advanced users.
About the TWO-SPRING SOCKET (?1)
Resistor Capacitor
-11-
The three-spring socket (?Q) just has three springs, and won’t do anything by itself. It is not used in any of the experiments. It was included to make it easy to connect other electronic components to your Snap Kits
TM
. It should only be used by advanced users who
are creating their own circuits.
There are many different types of transistors such as switching, high gain, high frequency, high power, field-effect, and others. All of these come with different specifications. Other common components that have three connection points include adjustable resistors, voltage regulator IC’s, SCR’s, some amplifier IC’s, some types of inductors and filters, bi-color LED’s, and others.
The three-spring socket (?Q) makes it easy to connect your own transistors (and other parts) to circuits by connecting them between the springs:
Any component with three wires coming from it (called leads) can be connected with the three-spring socket (?Q), assuming the leads are long enough. Usually you will connect different types of transistors, but other components with 3 leads can also be used. You can find electronic components like this at Radio Shack.
You can design your own circuits or substitute new parts into the projects in the manuals. Be sure to connect your parts correctly or you may damage them. Never exceed the voltage ratings of any parts. RADIO SHACK IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PARTS DAMAGED BY IMPROPER CIRCUIT DESIGN OR WIRING.
Never connect to external voltages. The three-spring socket is intended for advanced users only.
About the THREE-SPRING SOCKET (?Q)
NPN Transistor PNP Transistor
Collector
Base
Emitter
Emitter
Base
Collector
-12-
Project # Description Page #
1 Electric Light & Switch 15 2 DC Motor & Switch 15 3 Hear the Motor 16 4 Adjusting Sound Level 16 5 Lamp & Fan in Series 17 6 Lamp & Fan in Parallel 17 7 Light Emitting Diode 18 8 One Direction for LED 18
9 Conduction Detector 19 10 Space War Alarm Combo 19 11 Flying Saucer 20 12 Decreasing Saucer Lift 20 13 Two-Speed Fan 21 14 The Fuse 21 15 Musical Doorbell 22 16 Momentary Alarm 22 17 Alarm Circuit 23 18 Laser Gun 23 19 Space War 24 20 Light Switch 24 21 Paper Space War 24 22 Light Police Siren 25 23 More Loud Sounds 25 24 More Loud Sounds (II) 25 25 More Loud Sounds (III) 25 26 More Loud Sounds (IV) 25 27 The Transistor 26 28 The Transistor (II) 26 29 The Transistor (III) 26 30 The Transistor (IV) 26 31 Sound Mixer 27 32 Sound Mixer (II) 27 33 Sound Mixer (III) 27 34 Sound Mixer (IV) 27
Project # Description Page #
35 Space Battle 28 36 Silent Space Battle 28 37 Periodic Sounds 28 38 Blinking Double Flashlight 28 39 Motor-controlled Sounds 29 40 More Motor Sounds 29 41 More Motor Sounds (II) 29 42 More Motor Sounds (III) 29 43 More Motor Sounds (IV) 29 44 Light-controlled Flicker 30 45 More Sound Effects 30 46 Slow Off Switch 31 47 Transistor Diodes 31 48 Four Outputs 31 49 Auto-off Night Light 32 50 Auto-off Night Light (II) 32 51 Reflection Detector 33 52 Quieter Reflection Detector 33 53 Flashing Laser Light with Sound 34 54 Space War Flicker 34 55 Spinning Rings 35 56 Strobe the House Lights 35 57 Race Game 36 58 Using Parts as Conductors 36 59 Spin Draw 37 60 Space War Flicker Motor 37 61 Speaker Static 38 62 Parallel Resistors 38 63 Series Resistors 38 64 The Transistor (V) 39 65 The Transistor (VI) 39 66 The Transistor (VII) 39 67 Simple Rectifier 40 68 Space War Music Combo 40
Project # Description Page #
69 Space War Siren 41 70 Sunrise Light 41 71 Light-controlled Lamp 42 72 Motor-controlled Lamp 42 73 Light NOR Gate 42 74 Light-controlled LED 43 75
Motor-controlled Time Delay LED
43 76 Capacitor Slow-down 43 77 Space War Flicker LED 44 78 Human Space War 44 79 Flash & Tone 44 80
Fan Blade Storing Energy
45 81 Speaker
Storing Energy
45 82 NPN Light Control 45 83 Fun with the Alarm IC 46 84 Musical Motor 46 85 Musical Light 46 86 Music Alarm Combo 47 87 Bomb Sound 47 88 Bomb Sound (II) 47 89 Motor Sounds Combo 48 90 Motor Sounds Combo (II) 48 91 Fan Detector 49 92 Slow Siren Changer 49 93 Capacitor Photo Control 50 94 Capacitor Control 50 95 Photo Space War with LED 51 96 Alarm Rectifier 51 97 Light-controlled Alarm 52 98 Fading Siren 52 99 Lamp & Fan Independent 53
100 Motor Space Sounds 53 101 Motor Space Light 53 102 Automatic Street Lamp 54
Project Listings
Project # Description Page #
103 Pitch 54 104 Pitch (II) 54 105 Pitch (III) 54 106 Space War Sounds 55 107
Space War Sounds Controlled by Light
55 108 Adjustable Tone Generator 56 109 Photosensitive Electronic Organ 56 110 Electronic Cicada 56 111 Space War Radio 57 112 The Lie Detector 57 113 NPN Amplifier 58 114 PNP Amplifier 58 115 Sucking Fan 59 116 Blowing Fan 59 117 PNP Collector 59 118 PNP Emitter 59 119 NPN Collector 60 120 NPN Emitter 60 121 NPN Collector - Motor 60 122 NPN Emitter - Motor 60 123 Buzzing in the Dark 61 124 Touch Buzzer 61 125 High-Frequency Touch Buzzer 61 126 Mosquito 61 127 Loud Mosquito 61 128 Radio Music Alarm 62 129 Daylight Music Radio 62 130 Night Music Radio 62 131 Night Gun Radio 62 132 Radio Gun Alarm 62 133 Daylight Gun Radio 62 134 Fire Fan Symphony 63 135 Fan Symphony 63 136 Police Car Symphony 64
Project # Description Page #
137 Ambulance Symphony 64 138 Static Symphony 65 139 Static Symphony (II) 65 140 Capacitors in Series 65 141 Capacitors in Parallel 65 142 Current Controllers 66 143 NPN Dark Control 66 144 PNP Light Control 66 145 PNP Dark Control 66 146 Whining Fan 67 147 Light Whining 67 148 More Light Whining 67 149 Motor That Won’t Start 67 150 Current Equalizing 68 151 Lazy Fan 68 152 Laser Light 68 153 Whiner 69 154 Hummer 69 155 Adjustable Metronome 69 156 Quiet Flasher 69 157 HIssing Foghorn 70 158 Hissing & Clicking 70 159 Video Game Engine Sound 70 160 Make Your Own Battery 71 161 Make Your Own Battery (II) 71 162 Make Your Own Battery (III) 71 163 Tone Generator 72 164 Tone Generator (II) 72 165 Tone Generator (III) 72 166 More Tone Generator 73 167 More Tone Generator (II) 73 168 Radio Announcer 73 169 Music Radio Station 74 170 Alarm Radio Station 74
Project # Description Page #
171 Standard Transistor Circuit 74 172 Motor & Lamp by Sound 75 173 Fast Fade Siren 75 174 Changing Siren 76 175 Symphony of Sounds 76 176 Transistor Amplifiers 77 177 Pressure Meter 77 178 Resistance Meter 77 179 Auto-off Night Light (III) 78 180 Discharging Caps 78 181 Morse Code Generator 79 182 LED Code Teacher 79 183 Ghost Shriek Machine 79 184 LED & Speaker 79 185 Dog Whistle 79 186 Mind Reading Game 80 187 Enhanced Quiet Zone Game 81 188 Capacitor Charge & Discharge 81 189 Two-Finger Touch Lamp 82 190 One-Finger Touch Lamp 82 191 Space Battle 83 192 Space Battle (II) 83 193 Multi-speed Light Fan 83 194 Light & Finger Light 83 195 Storing Electricity 84
196 Lamp Brightness Control 84 197 Electric Fan 84 198 Fire Engine Symphony 85 199 Light Dimmer 85 200 Motion Detector 86 201 Fan Modulator 86 202 Oscillator 0.5 - 30Hz 87 203 Sound-pulse Oscillator 87 204 Motion Detector (II) 87
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Project Listings
-14-
Project # Description Page #
205 Motor Rotation 88 206 Motor Delay Fan 88 207 Motor Delay Fan (II) 88 208 High-pitch Bell 89 209 Steamship 89 210 Wet Finger Detector 89 211 Motor-activated Burglar Alarm 90 212 Light-activated Burglar Alarm 90 213 Spacey Fan 90 214 LED Fan Rotation Indicator 91 215 Space War Sounds with LED 91 216 Photoresistor Control 92 217 Sound Mixer Fan Driver 92 218 Electric Fan Stopped by Light 93 219 Motor & Lamp 93 220 Start-stop Delay 94 221 Mail Notifying System 94 222 Mail Notifying Electronic Bell 95 223 Mail Notifying Electronic Lamp 95 224 AM Radio with Transistors 95 225 Lasting Doorbell 96 226 Lasting Clicking 96 227 Delayed Action Lamp 96 228 Delayed Action Fan 96 229 Adjustable Time Delay Lamp 97 230 Adjustable Time Delay Fan 97 231 Transistor Fading Siren 97 232 Fading Doorbell 97 233 Adjustable Time Delay Lamp (II) 98 234 Adjustable Time Delay Fan (II) 98 235 Watch Light 98 236 Delayed Bedside Fan 98 237 This OR That 99 238 This AND That 99
Project # Description Page #
239 Neither This NOR That 100 240 NOT This AND That 100 241 Music AND Gate 101 242
Lamp, Speaker & Fan in Parallel
101 243 Light-controlled LED (II) 102 244 AM Radio 102 245 Transistor AM Radio 103 246 Antenna Storing Energy 103 247 Back EMF 104 248
Flashing Laser LED’s with Sound
104 249 Electromagnet Delayer 105 250
Photoresistor Paper Clip Suspension
105 251 Electromagnetism 106 252 Electromagnetism & Compass 107 253 Electromagnet Storing Energy 107 254 Electromagnet Tower 108 255 Paper Clip Compass 108 256 Paper Clip Oscillator (II) 109 257 Paper Clip Oscillator (III) 109 258 Paper Clip Oscillator (IV) 110 259 Paper Clip Oscillator (V) 110 260 Oscillating Compass 110 261 Siren Paper Clip Vibrator 111 262 Alarm Paper Clip Vibrator 111 263
Machine Gun Paper Clip Vibrator
111 264 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED 112 265 Alarm Vibrator w/ LED (II) 112 266 Motor Oscillator 113 267 Motor Oscillator (II) 113 268 Motor Oscillator (III) 113 269 Two-speed Motor Lights 114 270 Two-speed Motor Lights-Sound 114 271 Short-time Sound 115 272 Slow Light Dimmer 115
Project # Description Page #
273 Fading Bomb Sound 116 274 Fading Music Sound 116 275 Fading Music Sound (II) 116 276 Sound & Lights 117 277 Music with Timer 117 278 Motor Tone Generator 118 279 Motor Tone Generator (II) 118 280 Motor Tone Generator (III) 118 281 Motor Tone Generator (IV) 118 282 Turn Off Timer 119 283 Turn Off Timer (II) 119 284 LED & Bulb Timer 119 285 Alarm Timer 120 286 Alarm Timer (II) 120 287 Alarm Timer (III) 120 288 Space War Timer 121 289 Alarm Speed Adjuster 121 290 The SCR 122 291 Light-controlled SCR 122 292 Light-controlled SCR (II) 122 293 Light-controlled SCR (III) 122 294 LED Control Motor 123 295 LED Control Motor (II) 123 296 Light Oscillator 124 297
Sound, Light & Motor Stepper Circuit
124 298 Blink & Beep 125 299 Blink & Beep (II) 125 300 Simple Rectifier (II) 125 301 Alarm Motor 126 302 Alarm Light 126 303 Mirror Circuit 126
Project Listings
-15-
Project #1
OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity is turned “ON” or “OFF” with a switch.
Electric Light & Switch
Project #2
OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity is used to run a direct current (DC) motor.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the
base
first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current flows from the batteries through the motor making it rotate. Place the fan blade on the motor shaft and close the slide switch. The motor (M1) will rotate forcing the fan blade to move air past the motor.
In this project, you changed electrical power into mechanical power. DC motors are used in all the battery powered equipment requiring rotary motion, such as a cordless drill, electric tooth brush, and toy trains that run on batteries just to name a few. An electric motor is much easier to control than gas or diesel engines.
DC Motor & Switch
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the base first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Install two (2) “AA” batteries (not included) into the battery holder (B1) and screw the bulb into the lamp socket (L2) if you have not done so already.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current flows from the batteries through the lamp and back to the battery through the switch. The closed switch completes the circuit. In electronics this is called a closed circuit.
When the switch is opened, the current can no longer flow back to the
battery, so the lamp goes out. In electronics this is called an open circuit.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation.
-16-
Project #4
OBJECTIVE: To show how resistance can change the sound from the speaker.
Build the circuit shown on the left, but leave the fan off the motor (M1). When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the music may play for a short time and then stop. After the music has stopped, spin the motor with your fingers. The music should play again for a short time, then stop.
Now replace the 100Ω resistor (R1) with a 3-snap wire, and notice how the sound is affected.
In this project, you changed the amount of current that goes through the speaker (SP) and increased the sound output of the speaker. Resistors are used throughout electronics to limit the amount of current that flows.
Adjusting Sound Level
Project #3
OBJECTIVE: To show how a motor works.
Hear the Motor
Place the fan on the motor (M1). Press the press switch (S2) and listen to the motor. Why does the motor make sound?
A motor uses magnetism to convert electrical energy into mechanical spinning motion. As the motor shaft spins around it connects/ disconnects several sets of electrical contacts to give the best magnetic properties. As these contacts are switched, an electrical disturbance is created, which the speaker (SP) converts into sound.
If you replace the motor with the 6V lamp (L2), then it will work the same, but only make noise when the lamp is turned ON or OFF.
-17-
Project #5
OBJECTIVE: To show how a lamp can indicate when a fan is running.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the base first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Finally, place the fan blade on the motor (M1).
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the fan will spin and the lamp (L2) should turn on. The fan will take a while to start turning due to inertia. Inertia is the property that tries to keep a body at rest from moving and tries to keep a moving object from stopping.
The lamp helps protect the motor from getting the full voltage when the switch is closed. Part of the voltage goes across the light and the rest goes across the motor. Remove the fan and notice how the lamp gets dimmer when the motor does not have to spin the fan blade.
Lamp & Fan in Series
Project #6
OBJECTIVE: To show how an indicator light can be connected without affecting the current in the motor.
Build the circuit shown on the left.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), both the fan and the lamp should turn on. The fan will take a while to start turning due to inertia. In this connection, the lamp does not change the current to the motor (M1). The motor should start a little faster than in project #5.
Remove the fan and notice how the lamp does not change in brightness as the motor picks up speed. It has its own path to the battery (B1).
Lamp & Fan in Parallel
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation.
-18-
Project #7
OBJECTIVE: To show how a resistor and LED are wired to emit light.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current flows from the batteries (B1) through the switch, through the resistor (R1), through the LED (light emitting diode) (D1) and back to the battery. The closed (turned on) switch completes the circuit. The resistor limits the current and prevents damage to the LED. NEVER PLACE AN LED DIRECTLY ACROSS THE BATTERY! If no resistor is in the circuit, the battery may push enough current through the LED to damage the semiconductor that is used to produce the light.
LED’s are used in all types of electronic equipment to indicate conditions and pass information to the user of that equipment.
Can you think of something you use everyday that has an LED in it?
Light Emitting Diode
Project #8
OBJECTIVE: To show how electricity can only pass in one direction through an LED.
Rebuild the circuit used in project #7, but put the LED (D1) in as shown on the left.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current should flow from the batteries (B1) through the resistor (R1) and then through the LED. When current flows through an LED, it lights up. Since the LED is in backwards, current cannot flow. The LED is like a check valve that lets current flow in only one direction.
In this project, you changed the direction for current through the LED. An electronic component that needs to be connected in one direction is said to have polarity. Other parts like this will be discussed in future projects. Placing the LED in backwards does not harm it because the voltage is not large enough to break down this electronic component.
One Direction for LED
-19-
Project #9
OBJECTIVE: To make a circuit that detects the conduction of electricity in different materials.
Rebuild the circuit from project #7 but leave the on-off switch out as shown on the left.
When you place a metal paper clip across the terminals as shown in the picture on the left, current flows from the batteries (B1) through the resistor (R1), through the LED (D1), and back to the battery. The paper clip completes the circuit and current flows through the LED. Place your fingers across the terminals and the LED does not light. Your body is too high of a resistance to allow enough current to flow to light the LED. If the voltage, which is electrical pressure, was higher, current could be pushed through your fingers and the LED would light.
This detector can be used to see if a material like plastic is a good
conductor or a poor conductor.
Conduction Detector
Project #10
OBJECTIVE: To combine the sounds from the space war and
alarm integrated circuits.
Build the circuit shown. Turn it on, press the press switch (S2) several times, and wave your hand over the photoresistor (RP) to hear all the sound combinations. You can make the sound from the alarm IC (U2) louder by replacing the 100Ω resistor (R1) with the 6V lamp (L2).
Space War Alarm Combo
-20-
Project #11
OBJECTIVE: To make a circuit that launches the fan blade to simulate a flying saucer.
Rebuild the circuit from project #2, but reverse the polarity on the motor (M1) so the negative (–) on the motor goes to the positive (+) on the battery.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the motor will slowly increase in speed. When the motor has reached maximum rotation, turn the slide switch off. The fan blade should rise and float through the air like a flying saucer. Be careful not to look directly down on fan blade when it is spinning.
The air is being blown down through the blade and the motor rotation locks the fan on the shaft. When the motor is turned off, the blade unlocks from the shaft and is free to act as a propeller and fly through the air. If the speed of rotation is too slow, the fan will remain on the motor shaft because it does not have enough lift to propel it. The motor will spin faster when both batteries are new.
If the fan doesn’t fly off, then turn the switch on and off several times rapidly when it is at full speed.
Flying Saucer
Project #12
OBJECTIVE: To show how voltage affects speed of a DC motor and can decrease the lift of the saucer.
Change the circuit in project #11 by adding the lamp (L2) in series with the motor (M1) as shown in the diagram on the left.
When you place the lamp in series with any electronic device, it will draw less current because it adds resistance. In this case, the lamp in series reduces the current through the motor, and that reduces the top speed of the motor. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and wait until the fan reaches maximum speed. Turn the switch off and observe the difference in the height due to the lamp. In most cases, it may not even launch.
Decreasing Saucer Lift
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not touch the fan or
motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Do not lean over the motor.
!
WARNING: Moving parts. Do not
touch the fan or motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Do not
lean over the motor.
-21-
Project #13
OBJECTIVE: To show how switches can increase or decrease the speed of an electric fan.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Finally, add the 2-snap wires that are marked for level 3.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current flows from the batteries (B1) through the slide switch, motor (M1), the lamp (L2), and back to the battery. When the press switch (S2) is pressed, the lamp is shorted and motor speed increases.
The principle of removing resistance to increase motor speeds is only one way of changing the speed of the motor. Commercial fans do not use this method because it would produce heat in the resistor and fans are used to cool circuits by moving air over them. Commercial fans change the amount of voltage that is applied to the motor using a transformer or other electronic device.
Two-Speed Fan
OBJECTIVE: To show how a fuse is used to break all current paths back to the voltage source.
Use the circuit built in project #13.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), current flows from the batteries (B1) through the slide switch, the lamp (L2), motor (M1), and back to the battery. Pretend the 2-snap wire marked fuse in the drawing on the left is a device that will open the circuit if too much current is taken from the battery. When press switch (S2) is pressed, the lamp is shorted and motor speed increases due to an increase in current to the motor. While still holding the press switch down, remove the 2-snap wire marked fuse and notice how everything stops. Until the fuse is replaced, the open circuit path protects the electronic parts. If fuses did not exist, many parts could get hot and even start fires. Replace the 2-snap wire and the circuit should return to normal.
Many electronic products in your home have a fuse that will open when too much current is drawn. Can you name some?
The FuseProject #14
!
WARNING: Moving
parts. Do not touch the fan or motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Moving
parts. Do not touch the fan or motor during operation.
-22-
Project #15
OBJECTIVE: To show how an integrated circuit can be used as a musical doorbell.
Build the circuit shown on the left. When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the music integrated circuit (U1) may start playing one song then stop. Each time you press the press switch “doorbell button” (S2) the song will play again and stop. Even if you let go of the press switch, the integrated circuit keeps the song playing until it has reached the end of the song.
Musical integrated circuits are used to entertain young children in many of the toys and chairs made to hold infants. If the music is replaced with words, the child can also learn while they are entertained. Because of great advances in miniaturization, many songs are stored in a circuit no bigger than a pinhead.
Musical Doorbell
Project #16
OBJECTIVE: To show how integrated circuits can also create loud alarm sounds in case of emergencies.
Modify the circuit used in project #15 to look like the one shown on the left.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the music integrated circuit (U1) may start playing one song then stop. The song will be much louder than in the previous project because it is now being used as an alarm. Each time you press the press switch “alarm button” (S2) after the song stops playing, the song will play again, but only while you hold the button down.
Momentary Alarm
-23-
Project #17
OBJECTIVE: To show how an integrated circuit can be used to make real alarm sounds.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the integrated circuit (U2) should start sounding a very loud alarm sound. This integrated circuit is designed to sweep through all the frequencies so even hard of hearing people can be warned by the alarm.
If the alarm sound was passed through an amplifier and installed into a police car, it would also serve as a good police siren.
Alarm Circuit
Project #18
OBJECTIVE: To show how integrated circuits sound can easily be changed to exciting space war sounds.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2.
When you turn on the slide switch (S1), the integrated circuit (U2) should start sounding a laser gun sound. This integrated circuit is designed to produce different sounds that can easily be changed. You can even switch the sound on and off quickly to add sound effects to your games or recordings.
Laser Gun
-24-
Project #19
OBJECTIVE: To introduce you to the space war integrated circuit and the sounds it can make.
Build the circuit shown on the left, which uses the space war integrated circuit (U3). Activate it by turning on the slide switch (S1) or pressing the press switch (S2), do both several times and in combination. You will hear an exciting range of sounds, as if a space war is raging!
Like the other integrated circuits, the space war IC is a super­miniaturized electronic circuit that can play a variety of cool sounds stored in it by using just a few extra components.
In movie studios, technicians are paid to insert these sounds at the precise instant a gun is fired. Try making your sound occur at the same time an object hits the floor. It is not as easy as it sounds.
Space War
Project #20 Light Switch
OBJECTIVE: To show how light can control a circuit using a photoresistor.
Use the circuit from project #19 above, but replace the slide switch (S1) with the photoresistor (RP). The circuit immediately makes noise. Try turning it off. If you experiment, then you can see that the only ways to turn it off are to cover the photoresistor, or to turn off the lights in the room (if the room is dark). Since light is used to turn on the circuit, you might say it is a “light switch”.
The photoresistor contains material that changes its resistance when it is exposed to light, as it gets more light, the resistance of the photoresistor decreases. Parts like this are used in a number of ways that affect our lives. For example, you may have streetlights in your neighborhood that turn on when it starts getting dark and turn off in the morning.
Project #21 Paper Space War
OBJECTIVE: To give a more dramatic demonstration of using the photoresistor.
Use the same circuit as for project #20. Find a piece of white paper that has a lot of large black or dark areas on it, and slowly slide it over the photosensitive resistor. You should hear the sound pattern constantly changing, as the white and dark areas of the paper control the light to the photosensitive resistance. You can also try the pattern below or something similar to it:
-25-
Project #22
OBJECTIVE: To build a police siren that is controlled by light.
Build the circuit shown on the left by placing all the parts with a black 1 next to them on the board first. Then, assemble parts marked with a 2. Finally, insert the parts with a 3 last on level 3.
Cover the photoresistor (RP) and turn on the slide switch (S1). A police siren with music is heard for a while and stops, then you can control it by covering or uncovering the photoresistor.
Light Police Siren
Project #23
More Loud
Sounds
OBJECTIVE: To show variations of the circuit in project #22.
Project #24
More Loud
Sounds (II)
OBJECTIVE: To show variations of the circuit in project #22.
OBJECTIVE: To show variations of the circuit in project #22.
Project #26
More Loud
Sounds (IV)
OBJECTIVE: To show variations of the circuit in project #22.
Project #25
More Loud
Sounds (III)
Modify the project #22 by connecting points X & Y. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a machine gun with music.
Now remove the connection between X & Y and then make a connection between T & U. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a fire engine with music.
Now remove the connection between T & U and then make a connection between U & Z. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like an ambulance with music.
Now remove the connections between U & Z and between V & W, then make a connection between T & U. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a familiar song but with static.
-26-
Project #27
The Transistor
OBJECTIVE: To compare transistor circuits.
Project #28
The Transistor (II)
Place the fan on the motor (M1) and turn on the slide switch (S1)
- nothing happens. Press the press switch (S2), the lamp (L2) lights dimly and the motor spins. The lamp will be brighter if you remove the fan from the motor.
The NPN transistor (Q2) uses the lamp current to control the motor current. A small current through the lamp branch creates a large current through the motor branch. They combine in the transistor and leave through the 3-snap branch.
OBJECTIVE: To compare transistor circuits.
Compare this circuit to project #27. It works the same way, but the lamp (L2) is brighter here and the motor (M1) is slower.
This time the NPN transistor (Q2) uses the motor current to control the lamp current. A current through the motor branch creates a larger current through the lamp branch. They combine in the transistor and leave through the 3-snap branch.
Project #29
The Transistor (III)
OBJECTIVE: To compare transistor circuits.
Project #30
The Transistor (IV)
Compare this circuit to project #28. It works in a similar way, but the motor (M1) does not spin even though the lamp (L2) is bright. But the lamp is not as bright here as in project #28.
The currents in the motor branch and 3-snap branch are combined into the lamp branch. Since the 3-snap has no resistance, the current through its branch will be much larger than the motor branch current.
OBJECTIVE: To compare transistor circuits.
Compare this circuit to project #29. It works in a similar way, the lamp (L2) is off but the motor (M1) spins. But the motor does not spin as fast as in project #27.
The currents in the lamp branch and 3-snap branch are combined into the motor branch. Since the 3-snap has no resistance, the current through its branch will be much larger than the lamp branch current.
!
WARNING: Moving parts.
Do not touch the fan or motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Moving parts.
Do not touch the fan or motor during operation.
!
WARNING: Moving parts.
Do not touch the fan or motor during operation.
-27-
Project #31
OBJECTIVE: To connect two sound IC’s together.
In the circuit, the outputs from the alarm and music IC’s are connected together. Build the circuit shown and then place the alarm IC (U2) directly over the music IC (U1), resting on two 1-snaps and a 2-snap. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you will hear a siren and music together while the lamp (L2) varies in brightness.
Sound Mixer
OBJECTIVE: To connect two sound IC’s
together.
OBJECTIVE: To connect two sound IC’s
together.
OBJECTIVE: To connect two sound IC’s
together.
Project #34
Sound Mixer
(IV)
Modify the last circuit by connecting points Y & Z with a 2-snap (on level 5). The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a machine gun with music.
Project #33
Sound Mixer
(III)
Project #32
Sound Mixer
(II)
Now remove the 2-snap connection between Y & Z and then make a 2-snap connection between X & Y (on level 5). The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a fire engine with music.
Now remove the 2-snap connection between X & Y and then make a 2-snap connection between W & X (on level 5). The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like an ambulance with music.
-28-
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit with light and sound that change and repeat.
Project #38
Blinking
Double
Flashlight
Build the circuit shown on the left and turn it on. The lamp (L2) alternates between being on and off while the speaker (SP) alternates between two musical tones . . . like someone is flipping a switch, but at a very consistent rate. Periodic signals like this are very important in electronics.
Project #37 Periodic Sounds
Project #35 Space Battle
OBJECTIVE: To show another way of using the space war integrated circuit.
Build the circuit shown on the left, which is based on the circuit in the Space War project #19. Turn on the slide switch (S1) and you will hear exciting sounds, as if a space battle is raging!
The motor (M1) is used here as a 3-snap wire, and will not spin.
Project #36
Silent Space
Battle
OBJECTIVE: To show another way of using the space war part.
OBJECTIVE: To build a circuit with two lights that alternate.
The preceding circuit is loud and may bother people around you, so replace the speaker (SP) with the LED (D1). Make sure you connect the LED with the positive (+) side on A6, not U3. Now you have a silent space battle.
In the circuit at left, replace the speaker (SP) with the LED (D1). Make sure you connect the LED with the positive (+) side on A5, not U1. The lamp (L2) alternates between being on and off while the LED alternates between being dimmer and brighter.
-29-
Project #39
OBJECTIVE: To show how motion can trigger electronic circuits.
This circuit is controlled by spinning the motor (M1) with your hands. Turn on the slide switch (S1). A police siren is heard and then stops. Spin the motor and it will play again. Note, however, that music can be heard faintly in the background of the siren.
Motor-controlled Sounds
Project #40
More Motor
Sounds
OBJECTIVE: To show how motion can trigger electronic circuits.
Project #41
More Motor
Sounds (II)
OBJECTIVE: To show how motion can trigger electronic circuits.
OBJECTIVE: To show how motion can trigger electronic circuits.
OBJECTIVE: To show how motion can trigger electronic circuits.
Project #42
More Motor
Sounds (III)
Project #43
More Motor
Sounds (IV)
Modify the last circuit by connecting points X & Y. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a machine gun.
Now remove the connection between X & Y and then make a connection between T & U. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a fire engine.
Now remove the connection between T & U and then make a connection between U & Z. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like an ambulance.
Now remove the connections between U & Z and between V & W, then make a connection between T & U. The circuit works the same way but now it sounds like a familiar song but with static.
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