Warranty
• DuraTrax™will warranty this kit for 90 days after the purchase date from defects in materials or
workmanship. DuraTrax
will either repair or replace, at no charge, the incorrectly made part.
• Make sure you save the receipt or invoice you were given when you bought your model! It is your proof of purchase
and we must see it before we can honor the warranty.
• To return your Nitro Quake for repairs covered under warranty you should send your truck to:
Hobby Services
1610 Interstate Drive
Champaign, Illinois 61822
Attn: Service Department
Phone: (217) 398-0007 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Central Time M-F
E-mail: hobbyservices@hobbico.com
Before Building:
We want the building and operating of this vehicle to be a success, so BEFORE removing any parts from the parts bags
please read this manual thoroughly and watch the included video to familiarize yourself with the model. If for any reason
you think this model is not for you, return it to your dealer immediately. PLEASE NOTE: Your hobby dealer cannot accept
a return on any model after assembly has begun.
© Copyright 1999 Printed in USA DTXZ1051 For Kit DTXC0073/DTXD73**
ASSEMBLY AND OPERATION MANUAL
Introduction.................................................................................2
Safety Precautions .....................................................................2
Helpful Hints................................................................................2
Stress-Tech
™
Parts Guarantee...................................................2
Repair Service.............................................................................3
Specification & Description Changes.......................................3
Screw Information ......................................................................3
Required Items for Completion .................................................3
Tools You Will Need....................................................................3
Finishing the RTR Version.........................................................4
Assembly of the Pre-Built Version............................................7
Preparing the Radio System......................................................7
Radio Installation........................................................................7
Steering Linkage .......................................................................11
Brake and Throttle Linkage .....................................................11
Air Filter and Fuel Tubing Installation ....................................13
Radio Adjustments ...................................................................14
Body...........................................................................................15
Carburetor Settings ..................................................................16
Breaking in the Engine.............................................................16
Running the Engine..................................................................16
Engine Maintenance .................................................................17
Performance Tuning.................................................................19
Maintenance Tips......................................................................19
Engine Trouble Shooting .........................................Back Cover
Thank you for purchasing the DuraTrax Nitro Quake. This
manual contains the instructions you need to build, operate and
maintain your new nitro R/C monster truck. Read over this
manual thoroughly before building or operating the Nitro Quake.
When the safety precautions are followed, the Nitro Quake
will provide years of enjoyment. Use care and good sense
at all times when operating this radio controlled monster
truck. Failure to use this vehicle in a safe, sensible manner
can result in injury or damage to property. You and you
alone must insure that the instructions are carefully followed
and all safety precautions are obeyed.
• Do not operate the Nitro Quake near people.
Spectators
should be behind the driver or at a safe distance away
from the vehicle.
• The engine and exhaust produces quite a bit of noise. If
you are disturbed by the amount of noise this truck
produces, wear ear protection such as earplugs. Do not
run this vehicle when or where it can disturb others.
• The engine and exhaust can become very hot. Avoid
touching any of these parts during use and until they
have cooled down.
• Model engine fuel is poisonous. Make sure you read and
follow all of the precautions on the fuel container. Keep
fuel out of the reach of children.
• Model engine fuel is flammable and when ignited has a
flame that is difficult to see. Avoid sparks, flames,
smoking, or any other ignition source when fuel is near.
• The engine emits carbon dioxide just like real cars. Do
not operate this model indoors.
• Before turning on the transmitter, make sure that no one
else is on your frequency.
• Avoid working over a deep pile carpet. If you drop a small
part or screw, it will be difficult to find.
• Place a mat or towel over your work surface. This will
prevent parts from rolling off and will protect the work
surface.
• Avoid running the truck in cold weather. The plastic and
metal parts can become brittle at low temperatures. In
addition, grease and oil become thick, causing
premature wear and poor performance.
• Test fit all parts before attaching them permanently.
We have engineered the Nitro Quake to take the rough and
tumble abuse that makes R/C monster trucks fun. We are
so confident of the quality and durability of the Stress-Tech
™
plastic parts that we will replace any Stress-Tech plastic part
you break during the first 6 months you own the truck. Just
send in the part to us and we will send you a Free
replacement. Please see the Nitro Quake parts list for the
items covered under the Stress-Tech guarantee.
To receive your free replacement part please send the
following to the Hobby Services address listed on the cover
of this manual:
• The broken part must be included.
• The part number and description of the broken part.
• Dated copy of your invoice or purchase receipt.
• Your name, phone number and shipping address.
STRESS-TECH™PARTS GUARANTEE
HELPFUL HINTS
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2
Repair service is available anytime.
• After the 90 day warranty, you can still have your Nitro
Quake repaired for a small charge by the experts at
DuraTrax’s authorized repair facility, Hobby Services, at
the address listed on the front page of this manual.
To speed up the repair process, please follow the
instructions listed below.
1. Under most circumstances return the ENTIRE system: truck
and radio. The exception would be sending in a Stress-Tech
part. See the instructions under Stress-Tech Guarantee.
2. Make sure the transmitter is turned off, all batteries are
removed and fuel is drained from the tank.
3. Send written instructions which include: a list of all items
returned, a THOROUGH explanation of the problem, the
service needed and your phone number during the day. If
you expect the repair to be covered under warranty, be
sure to include a proof of date of purchase (your store
receipt or purchase invoice).
4. Also be sure to include your full return address.
All pictures, descriptions and specifications found in this
instruction manual are subject to change without notice.
DuraTrax maintains no responsibility for inadvertent errors
in this manual.
Do not use too much force when tightening self-tapping
screws into plastic. Overtightening will cause the threads in
the plastic to strip. We recommend that you stop turning a
self-tapping screw when you feel some resistance as the
head of the screw comes in contact with the plastic. Avoid
using powered screwdrivers when assembling this kit. They
tend to overtighten the screws. Do not use thread locking
compound on any self-tapping screws. The thread locking
compound may damage the plastic. IMPORTANT: Use
thread lock on any fastener that is threaded into metal or
fastened with a nut. Vibration from the engine will cause the
screws to loosen if thread locking compound is not used.
To operate the Nitro Quake these items are required:
• Glow plug starter (Hobbico Hot-Shot 2 -HCAP2520)
• Fuel bottle (DuraTrax Kwik-Pit Bottle - DTXP0125)
• Fuel (DuraTrax Red Alert fuel - DTXP0520)
• Air Filter Oil
• Glow plug wrench (DTXR1170)
• Hobby knife (HCAR0105), #11 blades (HCAR0211)
• It is also helpful to have a couple of extra glow plugs
on hand (O.S. #A3 plug - OSMG2690)
(All of these items are available in a Nitro Starter Pack
from DuraTrax - DTXP0200).
For the Pre-Built version of the Nitro Quake, you will also need:
• 2-channel radio with (1) standard servo and (1) high
torque (70+ oz./in.) servo (for steering)
•
(12) “AA” batteries - (4) for the receiver and (8) for the
transmitter
• Small bottle of thread locking compound (GPMR6060)
To assemble the Pre-built version (DTXC0073), you will
need the following tools:
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire cutters or diagonal cutters (HCAR0630)
• Hobby knife (HCAR0105), #11 blades (HCAR0211)
• Drill with 1/4", 1/8", 5/64" (or 6mm, 3mm, 2mm) bits
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
REQUIRED ITEMS FOR COMPLETION
SCREW INFORMATION
SPECIFICATION & DESCRIPTION CHANGES
REPAIR SERVICE
3
M3x14 Screw
14mm
3mm
M3x14
Self-Tapping
Screw
14mm
3mm
❏ 1. Remove the Nitro Quake, transmitter and parts
from the box.
❏ 2. Remove the twist-tie from the receiver antenna
wire. The receiver antenna wire is a bundled thin wire
that is attached to the receiver. Run the length of the
antenna wire through your fingers to help straighten
the wire out, this will make it easier to get the wire
through the tube. Remove the antenna tube from the
decal bag. Slide the antenna wire through the antenna
tube. Do not coil or cut the antenna. Cut two pieces
of fuel tubing 1/8" wide and slide them over the outside
of the antenna tube and wire. This is to help hold the
antenna tube on and avoid getting the antenna wire
cut in a roll over. Note the placement of the tubing on
the antenna tube.
❏ 3. Remove the air filter parts from the parts pack.
Slide the large rubber O-ring around the threads of the
outer housing. The O-ring will help seal the air filter
housing together. Soak the air cleaner element with an
air filter oil, light machine oil, or, in a pinch, shock oil.
Thoroughly soak the foam element and squeeze out
the excess. Then install the filter element into the
plastic outer housing.
❏ 4. Press the “L” shaped boot onto the bottom housing
of the air filter. Using one of the included tie-straps,
tightly secure the boot onto the bottom housing. Cut off
the excess portion of the tie-strap. Screw the bottom
and outer filter housing together. Note: Overtightening
will strip the threads.
❏ 5. Place the air filter onto the carburetor. Using the
remaining included tie-strap, tightly secure the air filter
to the carburetor. Cut the excess portion of the tiestrap off to avoid interference.
❏ 6. Remove the lower screw from each of the body
posts so that the posts can be placed upright. Reinstall the screw through the shock tower into the body
post as shown. The height of the body can be adjusted
by raising or lowering the posts on the shock tower.
BODY
AIR FILTER INSTALLATION
ANTENNA INSTALLATION
4
FINISHING THE NITRO QUAKE RTR VERSION (DTXD73**)
❏ 7. Remove the receiver battery holder from the
radio box. Install (4) “AA” batteries (included) into the
battery holder in the configuration molded into the
battery holder.
❏ 8. Cut a piece of foam the size of the radio box and
place it in the bottom for all of the equipment to set on.
Re-install the receiver battery into the radio box. Note
the placement of the receiver battery in the box. Make
sure that the receiver switch is in the “off” position.
Plug the connector on the receiver battery into the
socket on the receiver switch. Wrap the receiver with
the included foam rubber (if desired, secure with a
rubber band, not included) to help reduce possible
radio interference from vibration.
❏ 9. Remove the transmitter antenna from the holder
and screw it into the hole on top of the transmitter.
❏ 10. Slide open the battery door on the bottom of the
transmitter and remove the transmitter battery holder.
Place 8 “AA” batteries (included) into the holder in the
configuration molded into the plastic on the battery
holder. Re-install the transmitter battery holder into the
transmitter and re-install the battery door.
❏ 11. Turn on the transmitter using the switch on the
back (see photo with step 9). The green light on the side
of the transmitter should light up. If there is no light on,
turn the transmitter off and check to ensure that the
battery holder is making contact with the copper contact
on the inside of the battery compartment. Make sure the
batteries are installed correctly. Turn the transmitter on
and check for the green indicator light. If the green light
appears, turn off the transmitter.
❏ 12. Remove the plastic from the outside of the body.
Apply the decals to the body if desired.
RADIO SETUP
5
❏ 13. Assemble the rollbar as shown using ten 2.6 x
6mm self-tapping screws.
❏ 14. Drill six 1/4" (6mm) holes in the body using the
molded-in dimples as guides. Install the rollbar onto
body as shown using six 2.6 x 6mm self-tapping
screws and the included collars.
❏ 15. Drill two 1/4" (6mm) holes in front of body using
the molded-in dimples as guides. Install the front brush
guard as shown with two 2.6 x 6mm self-tapping
screws and the collars included.
❏ 16. Drill one 1/8" (3mm) hole in each side of the
body using the molded-in dimple as a guide. Install the
mirrors as shown with the collars and nuts provided.
❏ 17. Remove the body clips from the parts bag.
Place the body onto the body mounts. On each body
mount place a body clip.
You are ready to go! Watch the video one more time and
turn to page 16 for performance and maintenance tips.
6
7
❏ 1. Remove the Nitro Quake monster truck and the
transmitter from the box.
❏ 2. Remove the radio tray from the chassis by
removing the (8) 3x15mm flat head self tapping
screws from the bottom of the chassis.
❏ 3. Install the receiver on/off switch. Remove the two
screws from the face plate of the on/off switch and
remove the face plate. The switch should be in the
“OFF” position. Insert the on/off switch up through the
bottom of the radio plate. Then place the face plate
over the top of the on/off switch and place the two
screws back through the face plate into the on/off
switch. Be sure to reinstall the face plate with the
“OFF” position next to the switch button. Run both
wires from the on/off switch through the hole in the
side of the radio box.
RADIO INSTALLATION
ASSEMBLY OF THE NITRO QUAKE PRE-BUILT VERSION (DTXC0073)
1. Install the batteries in the transmitter and
the receiver battery holders.
2. Extend the transmitter antenna.
3. Connect the steering servo, throttle servo
and receiver battery to the receiver.
4. Extend the receiver antenna.
5. Adjust the servo trims of the transmitter to
the neutral position.
6. Switch on the transmitter.
7. Switch on the receiver.
8. Operate the steering and throttle control.
Make sure the servo arms move in
proportion to the movement of the
steering wheel and throttle trigger.
9. Switch off the receiver, then the transmitter.
Before installing the radio system in the
pre-built DuraTrax Nitro Quake read the
manufacturer’s instructions manual and
follow the instructions shown below.
Servo Arm
Steering
Servo
Throttle Servo
Receiver Battery Holder
4-AA Batteries
Transmitter
5
6
1
Antenna
4
8-AA Batteries
1
Receiver
3
Receiver
Switch
7
Antenna
2
8
PREPARING THE RADIO SYSTEM
8
❏ 4. Use a hobby knife or diagonal cutters to remove
the servo mounting blocks from the radio tray. Make
sure all of the flashing is removed from inside the
servo compartment to assure a proper servo fit. Save
the servo mounting blocks.
❏ 5. Place the standard throttle servo into the radio
tray. Note: Notice the direction of the servo spline
when installing. Run the servo lead through the hole
in the side of the radio box.
❏ 6. Mount the servo to the radio tray using four
mounting screws included with the radio system. Use
one of the servo mounting blocks that you cut out of
the radio tray in step 4 and place it against the under
side of the radio tray under the slotted holes. The
screws should go through the servo, the radio tray and
into the servo mounting block. Note: Make sure to
use the servo mounting block on the end with the
slotted mounting holes.
❏ 7. Place the high torque steering servo into the
radio tray. Note the direction of the servo spline
when installing. Run the servo lead through the hole
in the side of the radio box.
❏ 8. Mount the servo to the radio tray using four
mounting screws included with the radio system. Use
the other mounting block that you cut out of the radio tray
in step 4 and place it against the under side of the radio
tray under the slotted holes. The screws should go
through the servo, the radio tray and into the servo
mounting block. Note: Make sure to use the mounting
block on the end with the slotted mounting holes.
❏ 9. Cut two of the arms off the throttle servo horn by
scoring both sides of the arm with a hobby knife and
snapping off the arms with pliers.
9
❏ 10. Install the servo horn onto the throttle servo,
note the direction of the servo horn. Secure the
horn to the servo with the screw included with the
radio system.
❏ 11. Remove three of the arms off the steering servo
horn as shown.
❏ 12. Install the servo horn onto the steering servo,
note the direction of the servo horn. Secure the
horn to the servo with the screw included with the
radio system.
❏ 13. Route the wires and connectors for the switch
and two servos through the hole in the radio box. Cut
a piece of foam the size of the radio box and place it
in the bottom for all of the equipment to set on. Make
sure that all of the wires coming into the radio box are
on top of the foam. This is to help prevent vibration
damage to the receiver.
❏ 14. Install the receiver into the radio box and route
the antenna wire through the same hole the servo
leads come in. Run the antenna wire up through the
antenna mount hole.
❏ 15. Plug the steering servo, throttle servo and
switch into the receiver. See your radio instructions to
determine which channel is steering and which is
throttle. The switch plugs into the battery socket.
10
❏ 16. Install 4 “AA” batteries (not included) into the
receiver battery holder in the configuration molded into
the battery holder included with the radio system.
❏ 17. Install the receiver battery into the radio box.
Note the placement of the receiver battery in the box.
Connect the receiver battery to the remaining end of
the on/off switch.
❏ 18. Cut a 2" x 7" (50 x 175mm) piece of the included
foam and wrap it around the receiver. If desired, you can
wrap a small rubber band (not included) around the
outside of the foam to secure it in place for added security.
❏ 19. Install the receiver into the receiver box as
shown. Make sure all of the wires are out from under
the receiver so that it will properly fit into the radio box.
❏ 20. Cut the left over foam into small pieces and
place them around the receiver and battery to help
secure them into place. Then slide the radio box cover
back onto the radio box.
❏ 21. Run the length of the antenna wire through your
fingers to help straighten the wire out, this will make it
easier to get the wire through the tube. Slide the
antenna wire through the antenna tube. Frequently,
there will be leftover wire through the antenna tube
(Do not cut or coil the antenna!) Cut two pieces of
fuel tubing 1/8" wide and slide them over the outside
of the antenna tube and wire. This is to help hold the
antenna tube on and avoid getting the antenna wire
cut in a roll over. Note the placement of the tubing on
the antenna tube.
11
❏ 22. Re-install the radio box back onto the chassis.
Use the (8) 3x15mm flathead self tapping screws that
you removed earlier to secure the radio box back onto
the chassis. Refer to the picture in step 2 on page 6.
❏ 23. Remove one of the three prebent linkage rods
with a z-bend at the end of it from the linkage bag.
Note all of the prebent rods are the same.
❏ 24. Remove the servo horn from steering servo.
Enlarge the hole 3/4" (19mm) away from the center of
the horn with a 5/64" (2mm) drill or a hobby knife.
❏ 25. Install the z-bend end of the linkage rod into the
servo horn from the bottom as shown.
❏ 26. Loosen the screw in the bottom of the steering
arm on the servo saver enough for the linkage rod to
slide through the metal rod connector.
❏ 27. Remove the screw from the steering servo horn.
Slide the steering linkage rod through the hole in the
linkage rod connector in the steering arm. Place the
servo horn back onto the servo. When placing the
horn onto the servo, the horn and the steering arm
should be parallel as shown in the photo. Note: Do
not screw the servo horn down yet, the servos will
need to be centered after assembly is completed.
❏ 28. From the linkage bag remove the two remaining
prebent linkage rods with z-bends at one end, the
straight throttle wire, (6) 2mm rod collars, (6) 3mm set
screws, (1) throttle linkage spring, (1) rod connector,
(1) 2mm nut and (1) plastic ball cup. Also cut (2) 1/4"
pieces of fuel tubing from the fuel tubing included with
the kit.
BRAKE AND THROTTLE LINKAGE
STEERING LINKAGE
12
❏ 29. Remove the servo horn from the throttle servo.
Enlarge the two farthest holes at one end of the horn
and the farthest hole on the other end with a 5/64"
(2mm) drill or a hobby knife.
❏ 30. Install the rod connector into the top of the horn
at the end with the single enlarged hole. Apply a small
amount of thread locking compound onto the threads
of the rod connector, then thread on the 2mm nut. Do
not overtighten the nut, the rod connector must be
able to swivel freely.
❏ 31. Install the two linkage rods with the z-bends at
one end of them into the two enlarged holes at the
opposite end from the rod connector.
❏ 32. Install the set screw into two of the rod collars.
Place one rod collar onto both of the prebent linkage
rods. Note: Do not tighten the set screws all the
way down yet, the linkage will be adjusted later.
❏ 33. Re-install the servo horn onto the servo. Slide the
brake linkage rods through the brake levers as shown.
❏ 34. Screw the plastic ball cup onto the throttle
linkage wire. Install one rod collar onto the linkage rod,
then slide on the throttle linkage spring. Insert the
throttle linkage through the rod connector as shown.
Note: Do not tighten the set screw in the rod collar
down, adjustments will be made later.
Rod Connector
13
❏ 35. Snap the ball cup onto the throttle arm. Install a
second rod collar onto the throttle linkage so that it fits
against the rod connector. Note: Do not tighten the
set screw in the rod collar, the linkage will be
adjusted later.
❏ 36. Slide a 1/4" piece of fuel tubing over each of the
brake linkage rods. Then install a rod collar onto each
of the two rods. Note: Do not tighten the set screw
in the rod collars, the linkage will be adjusted later.
❏ 37. Locate the fuel tubing included with the kit. Cut
a 6" (150mm) piece to go from the fuel tank to the
carburetor and a 4" (100mm) piece to go from the fuel
tank to the pressure nipple on the tuned pipe.
❏ 38.Install one end of the 6" (150mm) piece of fuel
tubing onto the rotatable nipple on the rear of the fuel
tank and the other end onto the nipple on the carburetor.
❏ 39.Install one end of the 4" (100mm) piece of fuel
tubing onto the nipple next to the fuel tank lid and the
other end on the nipple on the muffler.
❏ 40. Assemble the air filter. Slide the large rubber O-
ring around the threads of the outer housing. The Oring will help seal the air filter housing together.
❏ 41. Soak the air cleaner element with an air filter oil,
light machine oil, or in a pinch, shock oil (not included).
Thoroughly soak the foam element and squeeze out
the excess. Then install the filter element into the
plastic outer housing. Install the filter element into the
plastic outer housing.
AIR FILTER AND FUEL TUBING
INSTALLATION
14
❏ 42. Press the “L” shaped boot onto the bottom
housing of the air filter. Using one of the included tiestraps, secure the boot tightly onto the bottom
housing. Cut the excess portion of the tie-strap to
avoid interference.
❏ 43. Screw the bottom and main filter housing
together. Note: Overtightening will strip the threads.
❏ 44. Place the air filter onto the carburetor. Using the
remaining included tie-strap, tightly secure the air filter
to the carburetor. Cut the excess portion of the tiestrap off to avoid interference.
❏ 45. Turn on the transmitter and receiver.
❏ 46. Slide the rod collars and fuel tubing that engage
the brakes so that when the car is at an idle the brakes
are slightly on. Test this by rolling the Nitro Quake on
a flat table or the floor and applying the brakes using
the transmitter. Move the rod collars on the other side
of the brake levers so that they will push the levers
back when accelerating.
❏ 47. Tighten the rod collar that retains the throttle
spring so that the spring cannot move back and forth
but not so much that the spring is tight. The rod collar
at the other end of the throttle linkage should be
tightened against the rod connector as shown.
❏ 48. Remove the throttle and steering servo horns
from the servos. Turn on the transmitter, then turn on
the receiver. Center the trims on the transmitter (see
your radio instructions). Place the horns back onto the
servos as shown. Make sure the wheels are pointing
straight ahead and the throttle should be at an idle
position. Install the servo horn screws once the horns
have been centered. Use the trims on the radio to fine
tune the centering of the tires and the idle of the
engine. When finished trimming, turn the receiver and
transmitter off.
RADIO ADJUSTMENTS
15
❏ 49. Remove the lower screw from each of the body
posts so that the posts can be placed upright. Reinstall the screw through the shock tower into the body
post as shown. The height of the body can be adjusted
by raising or lowering the posts on the shock tower.
❏ 50. Remove the plastic from the outside of the body.
Apply the decals to the body if desired.
❏ 51. Assemble the rollbar as shown using ten 2.6 x
6mm self-tapping screws.
❏ 52. Drill six 1/4" (6mm) holes in the body using the
molded-in dimples as guides. Install the rollbar onto
body as shown using six 2.6 x 6mm self-tapping
screws and the included collars.
❏ 53. Drill two 1/4" (6mm) holes in front of body using
the molded-in dimples as guides. Install the front brush
guard as shown with two 2.6 x 6mm self-tapping
screws and the collars included.
❏ 54. Drill one 1/8" (3mm) hole in each side of the
body using the molded-in dimple as a guide. Install the
mirrors as shown with the collars and nuts provided.
BODY
16
❏ 55. Remove the body clips from the parts bag.
Place the body onto the body mounts. On each body
mount place a body clip.
The High-Speed Needle
The “high-speed” needle is sticking up from the side of
the carb. It is located in the brass housing, just above
the fuel inlet. It controls the fuel to air mixture of the
carb. The needle is pre-set for break-in from the
factory at 3 turns out from the fully closed position of
the carb. Once the engine is broken-in, the high-speed
needle would typically run from 2-1/2 to 3 turns out
from closed, depending on the weather, humidity and
altitude above sea level. To richen turn the needle
counterclockwise, to lean turn the needle clockwise.
The Low-Speed Needle
The “low-speed” needle is the screw in the carb body,
opposite the throttle arm. It controls the fuel to air
mixture at low throttle settings. There is a simple way
of adjusting the low-speed needle correctly called the
“pinch test.” With the engine at idle, pinch the fuel line
and listen to how the engine speeds up or slows down.
If the engine increases its speed for about 2 or 3
seconds and then loses speed, the needle is set
correctly. If the engine loses RPM quickly, it is set too
lean and the low-speed needle needs to be opened
(counterclockwise) to richen the mixture. Pinch again
to check the mixture. If the engine takes longer than 4
seconds to slow down, lean (clockwise) the low-speed
needle and then pinch again to check the mixture.
The Throttle Stop Screw
On the front of the carburetor, there is a black screw.
This is called the idle stop screw. This increases or
decreases the idle RPM without changing the fuel to
air mixture. The barrel should be approximately
1.5mm (between 1/32" and 1/16") from fully closed.
To insure long life and good performance from your
Torq .21 engine, you MUST break-in the engine. The
break-in period is critical for long life of the internal
parts of the engine. This should be done over the first
5 or 6 tanks of fuel. Be sure to watch the engine tuning
video that came with this kit.
Some Things To Remember During Break-In:
1. Run with the body off. This will keep the engine cooler.
2. Keep the air cleaner on at ALL times
3. Run on a smooth, hard surface. An empty parking
lot is perfect.
4. Use the same fuel that you will use for normal running.
5. Resist the urge to accelerate and decelerate the
truck quickly.
6. Break-in puts stress on the glow plug and you can
burn it out during break-in. Make sure you have an
extra plug or two on hand.
7. Do NOT overheat the engine. You can check the
head temperature by using one of the temperature
gauges that are available or by putting a drop of
water on the top of the cylinder head. If the water
boils away immediately, shut off the engine and
allow it to cool. If it takes more than 10 seconds to
boil away, the engine is at proper running
temperature for break-in.
Before running the engine, read the manual and watch
the engine video that came with this kit.
There are several simple steps to starting the engine:
1. Install a glow plug if one is not in your engine. This
threads into the top of the cylinder head.
2. Fill the tank almost to the top. Leave a little air at the
top of the tank.
3. Prime the engine by turning the flywheel on the
engine. Watch the fuel go through the line and
RUNNING THE ENGINE
BREAKING IN THE ENGINE
CARBURETOR SETTINGS
17
when it gets to the carburetor, turn the flywheel one
more full revolution.
4. Open the high speed needle valve exactly 3 turns
out (counterclockwise) from fully closed. The
high-speed needle is sticking up from the
carburetor inside the brass housing. All of the
carburetor settings are adjusted with a flat bladed
screwdriver. If you have previously run the truck,
keep the same needle valve setting that you used
on your last run.
5. Start the engine by pulling the recoil - Use short,
quick pulls. DO NOT pull the recoil starter’s string to
the end. You only need 10 to 12 inches of pull to
start the engine.
If the engine does not start after several pulls,
sometimes it is helpful to start the engine at around
half throttle. Have a friend pull back on the throttle
some while you start the engine. This may be an
indicator that the low speed needle setting needs to be
adjusted. When the engine starts, immediately return
the throttle to idle. If this is not done the engine can
over-rev and cause engine damage. If the engine is
difficult to turn over with the recoil starter,
especially if it is brand new, loosen the glow plug
a half turn before starting the engine. This allows
some compression to escape, but the engine will
still start. Make sure you tighten the glow plug
after the engine starts. If the recoil starter is still
difficult to pull, the engine is flooded – there is too
much fuel inside the engine. Remove the glow plug
and air cleaner, then turn the engine upside down and
pull the recoil 5 or 6 times. This will clear the engine of
fuel, and you will notice the recoil pulls easier. Replace
the glow plug and repeat the starting procedure.
Fuels
Use fuels that are specially formulated for car and
truck engines. DuraTrax Red Alert fuel is specially
formulated for truck engines like the Torq .21.
How To Stop Your Engine
You may have been wondering how to stop the
engine. All you have to do is pinch the fuel line that
runs to the carburetor and from the bottom of the fuel
tank. Pinching this will restrict the fuel flow and the
engine will quit within a few seconds. You can also
touch the flywheel with the tip of your shoe through the
hole in the bottom of the chassis.
The First Tank
Your first tank of fuel should be running the truck at a
very rich high-speed needle valve setting. This allows
the fuel to carry as much oil as possible into the engine
to lubricate the internal parts during the break-in.
1. Open the needle valve 3 turns from fully closed
(counterclockwise). This is factory set already, but
check it to make sure. When closing the high-
speed needle, close the needle until you feel some
resistance. DO NOT overtighten or you will
damage the engine.
2. Start the engine.
3. Once the engine is started, open the high-speed
needle valve around 1/8 turn at a time, finding the
setting where the engine just barely runs. This
may take a few times adjusting the needle, running
the truck away from you and back, then adjusting
the needle. The truck will perform sluggishly and
stall from time to time - that is normal.
4. Run the truck back and forth at medium speeds,
slowly accelerating and decelerating the truck.
5. After a minute or two of running, make sure the
engine is not overheating by putting a drop of
water on the cylinder head and watching it boil
away. If it boils away within 10 seconds, stop the
engine and allow it to cool. Open the high-speed
needle around a 1/4 turn before starting again.
This is a good habit to get into every time you run
to ensure that the engine does not overheat during
any run. Looking at the smoke that comes out the
exhaust is also an indicator of how rich or lean the
engine is running. If there is a good amount of
smoke coming out of the exhaust, then chances
are good that you are running rich.
6. Run the truck back and forth at a medium speed
until the tank is almost out of fuel. Do not allow the
tank to run out of fuel. This leans out the engine
and can cause overheating (See How To Stop
Your Engine).
7. Stop the engine and allow the engine to cool
before the second tank. This normally takes
around 10 minutes.
Tanks 2-6
Turn in the needle valve (clockwise) around 1/12 turn
from the previous setting. Run the truck back and
forth. You should notice that the truck will perform
better during each run. Stop the truck periodically to
check for overheating. If it is too hot, stop the engine.
Wait for it to cool, then open up the needle valve and
restart. After the 6th tank, you should be near to the
peak performance of the engine.
Ten Ways To Ensure A Long Life From Your Engine:
1. Keep your engine clean. Dirt will act as insulation
on an engine. It will not be able to shed heat as
easily. Use a good air filter to keep dirt out of your
engine and clean it often.
2. Do not over-lean your engine.
3. Do not run your engine with little or no load. Don’t
throttle up the engine to full throttle when the
wheels are not in contact with the ground.
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
18
4. Do not overheat the engine. This goes along with
keeping it clean and not over-leaning the engine.
5. Do not use a fuel with a low oil content. Make sure
you use a fuel from a reputable manufacturer,
such as DuraTrax Red Alert.
6. Avoid using old fuels in the engine. Always run all of
the fuel out of the engine. After running for the day,
use an after-run oil and work it into the engine by
turning the flywheel or pulling the engine recoil slowly.
7. Do not use a fuel with a nitromethane (often called
nitro) content over 20%.
8. Do not scratch the piston or cylinder sleeve. Avoid
jamming something into the exhaust port when
removing or re-installing the clutch or flywheel.
Use a special tool called a crankshaft locking tool,
which is installed in the glow plug hole.
9. Do not use silicone sealer on the engine joints.
Silicone sealer contains acetic acid, which is
corrosive if it gets inside your engine.
10. Do not allow any water inside the engine. This
sounds
easy, but temperature changes can cause
condensation
inside the engine. This is a good
reason to use an after-
run oil. Store your engine
inside the house, not in a garage
or shed where
there will be temperature
extremes.
If you are having problems with your engine
consult the engine troubleshooting flow chart on
the back cover. The following are some potential
problems.
Glow Plug
The glow plug is an item that will wear out and need
replacement from time to time. It is a good idea to
remove the glow plug before your first run, heat it and
see how well it glows. You should see a bright orange
glow from the filament. If a coil or two will not glow or
the plug will not glow at all, replace the plug. If the
engine quits when you remove the glow starter, the
plug might need to be changed, although this may be
because you are running too rich and need to screw in
your high-speed needle some. Look at the glow plug
when you are running the engine. If you see some
bubbles coming from around the plug, replace the
glow plug (copper) gasket, or both the plug and
gasket. The only real way to test a glow plug is to
replace it. Make sure you have a spare plug or two on
hand every time that you run the Nitro Quake.
Fuel
Fuel can go bad. The main ingredient in model fuel is
methanol, which is basically an alcohol. Alcohols can
absorb water out of the air, so keep your fuel jug
capped at all times. Store your fuel out of the sunlight
and in a cool place. Bad fuel is one of the most difficult
problems to diagnose in engines. If you have tried
everything you can think of to remedy an engine that
is not running correctly, try using some fresh fuel.
Fuel line is susceptible to pinhole leaks. You cannot see
the hole in the fuel line, but if you see air bubbles in the
line going to the carburetor, replace the fuel line. Another
symptom of a leak in the fuel line is a surging engine. The
properly tuned engine will surge when the air bubbles hit
the carb. It is basically leaning out the mixture.
To keep dirt out of the engine, we recommend that you
use an inline fuel filter on the fuel line running from the
fuel tank to the carburetor. Dirt can get caught in the
needle seat and cause an inconsistent running engine.
If you suspect that some dirt has lodged itself in the
carb, remove the needles and clean the carb
with
denatured alcohol or fuel. It can help to use
compressed air to blow out the fuel passages as well.
Dirt can get into your carburetor and engine through
the air filter. Ensure that your air cleaner has a good
seal to the top of the carb. Periodically wash the air
cleaner foam element and re-oil the filter. Any air
cleaner that has a torn element or a bad seal should
be replaced immediately.
Overheating
One of the worst things you can do to your engine is
overheat it. The oils that lubricate the engine are
carried in the fuel. If your engine is set too lean, there
will not be enough oil in the engine to lubricate the
internal parts. This will cause premature wear in the
engine and cause damage. We have talked about
overheating in other parts of this manual, but we want
to stress the proper techniques to check for
overheating. The easiest way of checking the
temperature of the cylinder head is using one of the
available temperature gauges. This will give you a
direct reading of the cylinder head temperature. Do not
let the head temperature exceed 220° Fahrenheit
(104° Celsius). Another way of checking the head
temperature is to put a
drop of water on the cylinder
head. If it boils away
within 10 seconds, the high-speed
needle is set too lean. If the water boils away in
around
15 seconds, the engine is within proper operating
temperatures. If the water boils away longer than 15
seconds, the mixture is set rich which is preferable
when breaking in the engine. Otherwise lean the
mixture some and retest after a minute of running.
19
Ride Height: This refers to the clearance between the
ground and the chassis, both at the front and the back
of the truck. The general rule is to have the
suspension arms perfectly level when the car is at
rest. To determine the ride height, drop the truck from
around 6"-12" above flat ground. Drop the truck,
making sure it drops flat. Check where the suspension
arms come to rest. You can adjust ride by moving the
spring adjusters on the shock, which are at the top of
each shock spring, until the arms are level after the
drop test.
Toe-In/Toe-Out: This refers to the angle of the front
tires when viewed from above when the suspension
arms are level. If the fronts of the tires angle in, it is
called “toe-in” and if the fronts of the tires angle out, it
is called “toe-out.” In front, this is adjusted by
lengthening or shortening the steering rods - the rods
that run between the front hub and the servo saver.
The rear toe-in is adjusted by the large turnbuckles
behind the rear suspension. Normally a small amount
of toe-in is used to make the truck track straight at high
speed. Too much toe-in will make the truck difficult to
turn as well as reduce the overall top speed because
of tire scrub. Sometimes a small amount of toe-out will
be used to help the steering. As a general rule use a
small amount of toe-in.
Camber: Camber is the angle of the tops of the tires
when viewed from the front. Negative camber is when
the tops of the tires are angled towards the center of
the truck. Positive camber is where the tops of the tires
are angled away from the center of the truck. Positive
camber is very rarely used, if ever. A small amount of
rear negative camber is helpful to increase traction in
the rear. Negative camber at the front will increase
stability. Camber adjustments can be made on the
Nitro Quake by turning the “camber rods,” which are
the upper links on the suspension. Lengthening the
camber rod will add positive camber and shortening
the camber rod will add negative camber.
Shocks: Changes in shock oils, springs, and pre-load on
the springs can dramatically change the way the car
handles. A thicker shock oil will make the truck turn faster
but reduces overall traction and handling over bumpy
surfaces. Thinner oil will increase traction at the expense
of steering response and the car will tend to roll more. In
general, shock oils between 20 and 40 weight will be
best for your truck. You should experiment some to see
what oils work best for your track and driving style.
Shock springs affect the rate that the suspension
rebounds from a bump. We have supplied soft springs
that work under most conditions. Pre-load on the springs
means that the springs are already compressed some
so that the suspension will rebound faster. Sometimes
you will want to pre-load one side when the track has
turns all or mostly in one direction, for instance an oval
track. It will also increase the ride height.
Before Each Run
• Check for loosened screws on the truck. Engine
vibration will loosen some of the screws, particularly
in the engine mount area. Use thread lock on screws
that thread into metal parts or use a metal nut.
• Inspect the air cleaner for a torn or damaged
element. Also look for dirt in the air cleaner element
and wash it if necessary.
• Check the suspension and drive train for binding.
• Inspect all of the wires for damage. Also check the
connectors to make sure all of them are tight and in
the proper place.
• Check the fuel tank and fuel lines for leaks.
• Before starting the engine, turn on the radio and
make sure the servos move easily and in the right
direction.
• Before running always check the condition of your
radio system batteries and replace/recharge if
necessary.
After Each Run
• Drain the fuel tank of any leftover fuel. DO NOT
return it to your fuel jug.
• Put some after-run oil in the carb and turn the
flywheel several times to work the oil into the
engine. This will protect the engine from rusting,
especially when stored for a long period of time.
• Check again for loosened screws.
• CLEAN the truck. Wipe off any oils that have
collected on the chassis, engine end exhaust. Oils
will attract dirt on the next run.
MAINTENANCE TIPS
PERFORMANCE TUNING
Inch Scale
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
Metric Scale (mm)
ENGINE TROUBLE SHOOTING
The engine starts
Does the engine
turn over easily?
Does it run
continuously?
Is fuel getting to
the engine?
Check for clogging in
the carburetor or fuel
line. Press the
primer pump and
check for fuel
spraying out of the
fuel line. If so,
replace the fuel line.
Is fuel in the
fuel line?
Is the glow plug
red hot?
Check the high speed needle
setting and prime the engine.
Is foreign matter
clogging the fuel
tank or fuel line?
Is the battery for
the glow plug
clip charged?
It should be
ready to go.
Is the high
speed needle
setting 1 to
1-1/2 turns out
from closed (if
the engine is
broken-in?)
Try starting the
engine again.
NO
NO
NO
NO
YES
YES
YES
YES
YES
Does the engine
quit when the
glow plug clip is
removed?
YES
YES
Clear the engine
of fuel.
NO
Reset the high
speed needle.
YES
NO
Replace the
glow plug.
Check that the
pressure line is
connected to the
muffler. The fuel
may be bad.
The engine does not start
NO
Does the engine
turn over easily
with the glow
plug removed?
The engine may
be flooded.
Clear the engine
of fuel.
YES
Check that
nothing is
caught in the
engine. Check
that the the
pull starter
operates
smoothly.
NO
Press the
primer pump
and check for
fuel spraying
out of the fuel
line through a
small hole. If
so, replace
the fuel line.
YES
Remove the
obstruction from
the fuel tank or
fuel line.
NO NO
Charge or
replace the
batteries.
YES
Replace the
glow plug.
Try starting the
engine again.
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