Brother 884-B01 User Manual

HANDBOOK FOR COMPACT OVERLOCK MACHINE

MANUAL DE INSTRUCCIONES DE LA MAQUINA COMPACTA OVERLOCK

English

Product Code: 884-B01

Español

Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Visítenos en donde hallará consejos para la solución de problemas así como la lista de preguntas y respuestas más frecuentes.

http://solutions.brother.com

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock.

The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the sewing machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, or changing presser foot, etc.

15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.

17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine.

18. Do not disassenble the machine.

19. If the LED light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

CAUTION

To use the machine safely

1. (For U.S.A. only)

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other) to reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is

intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.

If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the

proper outlet.

Do not modify the plug in any way.

2. Make sure you watch the needles carefully while you are sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, needles, knives, or other moving parts.

3. Turn off the main power and unplug the cord in the following circumstances:

- When you have stopped using the machine

- When you are replacing or removing the needle or any other part

- If there is a power failure while you are using the machine

- If you are checking or cleaning the machine

- Leaving the machine unattended

4. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

5. Fully plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

6. If water is dropped on the machine, unplug the machine immediately, and contact your local authorized dealer.

7. Do not put furniture on the cord.

8. Do not bend the cord, or pull on the cord to unplug.

9. Do not touch the cord with wet hands.

10. Place the machine near to the wall outlet.

11. Do not place the machine on an unstable surface.

12. Do not put on the soft cover.

13. If you notice any abnormal sound or condition, consult your local authorized dealer.

To give your machine a longer life

1. Do not store this machine in direct sunlight or in high humidity conditions. Do not use or store the machine near a heater, iron, halogen lamp or other hot object.

2. Use only mild soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult this manual before you replace or fit the presser foot, needle, or any other parts to make sure you fit them correctly.

To repair or adjust the machine

If the machine breaks down or needs adjustment, first follow the troubleshooting table to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, consult your local authorized dealer.

"SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS" "This sewing machine is intended for household

use."

CAUTION

When leaving this sewing machine unattended, the main power and light switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers, the machine or the electrical set must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.

English

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,

MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

- In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

- Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

- If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AC INPUT 220-240V

COUNTRIES AND MEXICO

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

IIII

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING THIS COMPACT OVERLOCK MACHINE

Your machine is a high quality, easy-to-use product. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study this booklet.

If you need more information regarding the use of your machine, your nearest authorized dealer is always happy to be of service.

Enjoy yourself!

CAUTION

When threading or replacing needle, the main power and light switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

When the machine is not in use, it is recommended that the electric supply plug is disconnected from the wall socket to avoid any possible hazards.

Notes on the motor

- The maximum operating speed of this sewing machine is 1,300 stitches per minute, which is quite fast compared to the normal operating speed of 300 to 800 stitches per minute for the ordinary sewing machine.

- The bearings in the motor are made of a special sintered, oil-impregnated alloy mounted in oilsoaked felt to withstand long hours of continuous operation.

- Continuous operation of the sewing machine can cause heat to build in the motor area, but not enough to adversely affect its performance. It is important to keep fabric and paper away from the air openings on the back and sides of the machine so air can get to these openings.

- When the motor is running, sparks can be seen through the air openings in the motor bracket on the side opposite the hand wheel. These sparks are produced by the carbon brushes and the commutator, and are part of the machines normal operation.

WARNING LABELS (for complying with UL and CSA requirements)

The following warning labels are on the machine. Be sure to observe the precautions described in the labels.

1 Caution (U.S.A. and CANADA only)

2 Face plate sticker (U.S.A. and CANADA only)

Label locations

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Contents

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...................................................................................

WARNING LABELS ...................................................................................................................

Contents .................................................................................................................................... 1

Chapter 1: Names of parts and their functions ...................................................................... 2

Accessories ......................................................................................................................... 3

Powering the machine ........................................................................................................ 4

Turning direction of hand wheel ......................................................................................... 4

Opening/ Closing front cover .............................................................................................. 4

Attaching/ Removing presser foot ...................................................................................... 4

Trim trap ...............................................................................................................................5

Free-arm sewing (removing bed extension) ...................................................................... 5

Wide table ............................................................................................................................5

Retracting knife ...................................................................................................................6

Stitch length ......................................................................................................................... 6

Stitch width ..........................................................................................................................6

Differential feed ................................................................................................................... 7

Adjusting the presser foot pressure....................................................................................7

Tension adjustment dial......................................................................................................8

Chart of thread tension adjustment, Two needle (Four-thread) ........................................ 9

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One needle (Three-thread) ......................................10

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One needle (Two-thread) ........................................10

Needle ................................................................................................................................. 11

Removing/Installing the needle .......................................................................................... 11

Chapter 2 : Preparation before threading ............................................................................... 12

Thread tree .......................................................................................................................... 12

How to use the thread spool cap ........................................................................................ 12

How to use the thread net ................................................................................................... 12

Before threading..................................................................................................................12

Chapter 3: Threading ................................................................................................................13

Thread for two-needle four-thread overlock stitch ............................................................. 13

Thread for one-needle three-thread overlock stitch (right needle) ................................... 13

Thread for one-needle three-thread overlock stitch (left needle) .....................................13

Thread for one-needle two-thread overlock stitch (right needle) ...................................... 14

Thread for one-needle two-thread overlock stitch (left needle) ........................................ 14

Threading the lower looper ................................................................................................ 14

Threading the upper looper ................................................................................................ 16

Threading the left needle .................................................................................................... 17

Threading the right needle ................................................................................................. 17

Threading the needle (using the needle threader) ...........................................................18

Chapter 4: Sewing materials, threads and needles comparison chart ................................. 19

Chapter 5: Sewing .................................................................................................................... 20

Stitch selection .................................................................................................................... 20

Test sewing .........................................................................................................................20

Chaining-off ......................................................................................................................... 21

To start sewing .................................................................................................................... 21

To remove work ................................................................................................................... 21

To secure chain ................................................................................................................... 22

If threads break during sewing ........................................................................................... 23

To sew fine materials ..........................................................................................................23

To use the stitch finger W .................................................................................................... 23

Two-thread sewing.............................................................................................................. 24

Narrow overlock/Rolled hemming stitch ............................................................................ 25

Chart of narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch .............................................................. 26

Chapter 6: Troubleshooting ..................................................................................................... 27

Chapter 7: Maintenance ............................................................................................................28

Cleaning ..............................................................................................................................28

Oiling.................................................................................................................................... 28

Chapter 8: Introduction of optional feet ..................................................................................29

Blind stitch foot ....................................................................................................................29

Taping foot ........................................................................................................................... 31

Pearl sequence foot ............................................................................................................ 32

Piping foot ............................................................................................................................ 33

Gathering foot ...................................................................................................................... 34

Specifications ........................................................................................................................... 35

Specifications ...................................................................................................................... 35

Setting record ...................................................................................... Inside of the back cover

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English

CHAPTER 1 NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

<A>

<C><D>

1 Thread tree 2 Presser foot pressure adjustment screw 3 Spool pin 4 Spool support 5 Thread take-up cover 6 Needles 7 Bed extension 8 Presser foot 9 Material plate cover 0 Left needle thread tension dial A Right needle thread tension dial B Upper looper thread tension dial C Lower looper thread tension dial D Front cover E Presser foot lifting lever F Main power and light switch G Stitch length adjustment dial H Hand wheel I Differential feed ratio adjustment dial J Stitch width dial K Thread guide

<F><E>

Inside of the front cover

<A> Tweezers (accessory)

L Lower looper threading lever M Thread take-up for loopers N Upper looper O Upper knife P Lower looper Q Stitch finger R Knife lever 1 Front cover compartment

Accessories can be stored in this compartment.

Thread change assembly, <C> Needle set, <D> Hexagonal driver

2 Bed extension compartment

The removed stitch fingers can be stored in this compartment. (See CHAPTER 5 "Narrow overlock/Rolled hemming stitch".

<E> Stitch finger, <F> Stitch finger W

* Air openings (on the back)

Accessories

Included accessory

1 Soft cover: X77871000 2 Accessory bag: 122991052 3 Tweezers: XB1618001 4 Thread net (4): X75904000 5 Thread spool cap (4): X77260000 6 Cleaning brush: X75906001 7 Hexagonal driver: XB0393001 8 Needle set (SCHMETZ 130/705H): X75917001

#80: 2 pcs., #90: 2 pcs.

9 Foot controller:

XC7359021 (120V Area) XC7438321 (230V Area) XC7456321 (U.K.) XD0112121 (Argentina) XD0852021 (Korea) XD0105021 (China) XE0629001 (Australia, New Zealand) XE3414001 (Brazil)

0 Instruction DVD: XB2007001 (NTSC)

A Thread change assembly: XB1991001 B Trim trap: XB1958001 C Stitch finger W: XB1902001

XB2014001 (PAL)

Optional accessory

For further information about the following items, see CHAPTER 8.

D Blind stitch foot: X76590002

English

E Gathering foot:

SA213 (U.S.A., CANADA) X77459001 (OTHERS)

F Pearl sequence foot:

SA211 (U.S.A., CANADA) X76670002 (OTHERS)

G Piping foot:

SA210 (U.S.A., CANADA) XB0241101 (OTHERS)

H Taping (Elastic) foot:

SA212 (U.S.A., CANADA) X76663001 (OTHERS)

I Wide table assembly:

XB2023001 * In some regions, the wide table is an included accessory.

The wide table can also be used as an accessory box.

Size: 35 cm (W) x 25.5 cm (D) [Approx. 13-3/4 inches (W) x 10 inches (D) ]

Powering the machine

Opening/ Closing front cover

Turning on the machine

1. Insert the three-pin plug into the socket on the bottom right side of the machine. Insert the power supply plug into a power outlet.

2. Turn the main power and light switch <A> to "I" mark (to "O" mark to turn off).

<A>

Operation

When the foot controller is pressed lightly, the machine runs at a low speed. As the foot controller is pressed further, the machine will increase speed. When the foot controller is released, the machine stops.

NOTE (For U.S.A. only):

Foot controller: Model KD-1902 This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 884-B01. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.

Turning direction of hand wheel

The hand wheel <A> turns in a counterclockwise direction (direction of arrow). This is the same direction as an ordinary home sewing machine. The needles move to their highest positions by turning the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine.

It is necessary to open the front cover when threading this machine. Slide it to the right 1 and open 2, or close it and slide it to the left.

CAUTION

For your safety, make sure that the front cover is closed when operating the machine.

Always turn off the machine before opening the front cover.

Attaching/ Removing presser foot

1. Turn off the main power and light switch or disconnect the electric supply plug.

2. Raise the presser foot lever. 1

3. Turn the hand wheel 2 so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

4. Push the button on the presser foot holder and the standard presser foot will be released. 3 4

5. Raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then remove the presser foot and store it in a safe location.

6. Again, raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then place the presser foot just under the presser foot holder <A> so that the groove in the bottom of the presser foot holder is aligned and catches the bar on the top of the foot <C>. Then lower the presser foot lever to attatch the foot, pushing the button on the presser foot.

<A>

<A>

<C>

Trim trap

The optional trim trap <A> holds the trimmed fabric and thread produced when sewing.

<A>

To install: Insert the trim trap <A> until it contacts the front cover.

NOTE: Be sure to position the positioning guide to the one on the machine.

To remove: Slowly pull out the trim trap.

NOTE: The optional trim trap can also be used as the foot controller holder.

2. Position the fabric, and start sewing. (See CHAPTER

5.)

English

Wide table

Using the wide table <A> makes the large piece sewing easy.

To install: Attach the wide table <A> by pushing it in the direction

of the arrow until the edge line 1 is aligned to the line 2 of the bed extension .

<A>

CAUTION

Always remove the foot controller from the trim trap when carrying the machine.

Free-arm sewing (removing bed extension)

Free-arm sewing enables tubular pieces to be sewn more easily.

1. Remove the bed extension <A>.

<A>

NOTE: Be careful not to lose the removed bed extension.

To remove: To remove the wide table <A>, lift up the machine a little

and then pull out the wide table <A> in the direction of the arrow.

<A>

NOTE: Do not move the machine while the wide table <A> is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur.

Retracting knife

<A>

Stitch length

To sew without cutting the fabric edge, you need to retract the knife as follows.

CAUTION

Do not touch the knife.

Move the knife lever only while the needle is at its lowest point.

Be sure to unplug the power supply cord from the wall outlet before retracting the knife.

1. Pull up the knife lever <A>, then pull it to the right.

<A>

2. Bring down the knife.

The normal stitch length setting is 3 mm. To change the stitch length, turn the stitch length adjustment dial on the right side of the body.

<A>

1 Shorten the stitch length to a minimum of 2 mm (5/64

inch).

2 Lengthen the stitch to a maximum of 4 mm (5/32

inch).

<A> Selection mark

Stitch width

The normal stitch width setting for regular overlock stitch is 5mm (13/64 inch). To change the stitch width, turn the stitch width adjustment dial.

3. Retract the knife completely, then take your hand off from the lever.

1 Increase the width to a maximum of 7 mm (9/32

inch).

2 Reduce the stitch width to a minimum of 5 mm

(3/16 inch).

<A> Selection mark

Differential feed

This serger is equipped with two sets of feed dogs under the presser foot to move the fabric through the machine. The differential feed controls the movement of both the front and the rear feed dogs. When set at 1, the feed dogs are moving at the same speed (ratio of 1). When the differential feed ratio is set at less than 1, the front feed dogs move slower than the rear feed dogs, stretching the fabric as it is sewn. This is effective on lightweight fabric that may pucker. When the differential feed ratio is set at greater than 1, the front feed dogs move faster than the rear feed dogs, gathering the fabric as it is sewn. This function assists in removing the rippling when serging stretch fabrics.

An example

When stretch material is sewn without using the differential feed, the edge will be wavy.

English

Differential feed adjustment

Main

Feed

ratio

0.7 - 1.0

1.0

1.0 - 2.0

The normal setting is 1.0 on the differential feed adjustment dial.

To adjust the diffrerential feed, turn the dial on the right bottom of the body.

feed

(rear)

Differential

feed

(front)

Effect

Material is pulled tight.

Without differential feed.

Material is gathered or pushed together.

Application

Prevents thin materials from puckering

Normal sewing

Prevents stretch materials from stretching or puckering

To get smooth finish, adjust the feed ratio from 1.0 toward 2.0. (The feed ratio required depends on the elasticity of the material.)

The more elastic the material, the further toward 2.0 the differential feed ratio should be set. Test sew with a scrap of the fabric to find the correct adjustment.

CAUTION

When sewing thick non-stretchable material such as denim, do not use the differential feed as it may damage the fabric.

Adjusting the presser foot pressure

Turn the pressure adjustment screw on the top left of the machine. You can adjust by reffering the value on the screw.

The normal setting is "2".

<A>

1 Less than 1.0 2 Greater than 1.0 <A> Selection mark

1 Less pressure 2 More pressure

<A> Selection mark

Tension adjustment dial

There is a thread tension dial for each needle thread, the lower looper thread and the upper looper thread. The correct thread tension may vary according to the type and thickness of the fabric and the type of thread used. Thread tension adjustments may be necessary for any change in sewing materials.

1234

1 Yellow marked tension disc is for left needle. 2 Green marked tension disc is for right needle. 3 Pink marked tension disc is for upper looper. 4 Blue marked tension disc is for lower looper.

Tension control

Sewing is possible at position "4" for most circumstances. (Standard: SPAN 60/3Z)

If the stitch quality is insufficient, select a different tension setting.

<A> Tension selection mark

1 For heavy tension: 4 to 7 2 For light tension: 4 to 2 3 For medium tension: 5 to 3

If you cannot find the correct tension, refer to the charts on following pages.

CAUTION

Make sure that the thread is properly seated in the tension discs.



Chart of thread tension adjustment, Two-needle (Four-thread)

A: Reverse B: Surface C: Left needle thread D: Right needle thread E: Upper looper thread F: Lower looper thread

Left needle thread is loose.

Right needle thread is loose.

Left needle thread is tight.

Right needle thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is tight.

Tighten left needle thread. (yellow)

Tighten right needle thread. (green)

Loosen left needle thread. (yellow)

Loosen right needle thread (green)

Loosen upper looper thread (pink)

English

A F

Lower looper thread is loose.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (pink)

Loosen lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (pink)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

When you adjust the thread tension, do it in the following order:

(1) Left needle thread (2) Right needle thread (3) Upper looper thread (4) Lower looper thread

This is the easiest way to obtain the correct thread tension.

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One-needle (Three-thread)

A: Reverse B: Surface C: Needle thread D: Upper looper thread E: Lower looper thread

Needle thread is

loose.

Needle thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is tight.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Tighten needle thread. (yellow or green)

Loosen needle thread. (yellow or green)

Loosen upper looper thread (pink)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (pink)

Loosen lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (pink)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

When you adjust the thread tension, do it in the following order:

(1) Needle thread (2) Upper looper thread (3) Lower looper thread

This is the easiest way to obtain the correct thread tension.

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One-needle (Two-thread)

A: Reverse B: Surface C: Needle thread D: Lower looper thread

Needle thread is tight.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Needle thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is tight.

Loosen needle thread. (yellow or green)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten needle thread. (yellow or green)

Loosen lower looper thread (blue)

Needle

This machine uses a standard home sewing machine needle. The recommended needle is SCHMETZ 130/705H (#80 or #90).

Needle description

1 Back (flat side) 2 Front 3 Groove

How to check the needle

4 Flat surface 5 Place the needle on its flat side and check to see if the

space is parallel.

NOTE: Countermeasures for material breakage <A>.

To remove:

1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.

2. Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER 1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

3. Loosen the corresponding needle set screw with turning the included hexagonal driver toward 2 in the figure, and remove the needle.

To install:

1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.

2. Turn the hand wheel so that the line on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine.

3. Hold the needle with its flat side away from you and insert it up as far as it will go.

4. Tighten the needle set screw securely with turning the included hexagonal driver toward 1 in the figure.

NOTE: Make sure to insert the needles to the highest point in the needle chamber. If the needles have been inserted correctly, the right needle should be set slightly lower than the left one.

English

It can reduce the occurrence of material breakage by using SCHIMETZ 130/705H SUK (#90) BALL POINT.

Removing/Installing the needle

<A> Removing/ installing the left needle Removing/ installing the right needle

<A>

1 Tighten 2 Loosen

CAUTION

Always be sure to turn off the power before removing/ inserting the needle.

Do not drop the needle and needle set screw in the machine, otherwise it may be damaged.

CHAPTER 2 PREPARATION BEFORE THREADING

Thread tree

Raise the telescoping thread tree to its highest position. Make sure that the thread holders are in alignment above the spool pins as illustrated below.

1 Thread holder on thread tree 2 Spool pin 3 Correct position

How to use the thread spool cap

When using sewing thread spools, the thread spool cap should be used as illustrated below. Make sure that the spool notch is on the bottom.



Before threading

1. Turn off the main power and light switch for safety.

2. Raise the presser foot using presser foot lever.

3. Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel <A> is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER 1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

1 Thread spool cap

How to use the thread net

If you are sewing with loosely spun nylon thread, we recommend that you cover the spool with the net supplied to prevent the thread from slipping off the spool. Adapt the net to the shape of the spool.

<A>

CHAPTER 3 THREADING

Thread for two-needle four-thread

overlock stitch

left needle

<A>

right needle

Thread for one-needle three-thread

overlock stitch (right needle)

<A>

English

Thread for one-needle three-thread

overlock stitch (left needle)

<A>

Thread for one-needle two-thread

overlock stitch (right needle)

<A>

Threading has to be done in the following order.

1. Lower looper

2. Upper looper

3. Right needle

4. Left needle

Threading the lower looper

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the blue color and the numbers next to each threading point.

Thread for one-needle two-thread

overlock stitch (left needle)

<A>

1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread holder 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

3. Pass the thread through the thread guide 3 on the top of machine.

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the blue tension adjustment dial.

5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading points 5678 next to the blue color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure to thread both of the thread take-ups 7.

3. Pass the thread through the eye of the lower looper.

Continue on "Lower looper easy threading operation".

Lower looper easy threading operation

1. Slide the lower looper threading lever <A> to the right. The lower looper moves to the position illustrated as below.

<A>

CAUTION

Slide the threading lever only in the directions shown by the arrow. Forcefully moving the threading lever in any other direction may damage it.

English

4. Slowly turn the hand wheel, and make sure the lower looper returns to the original position.

NOTE: If the lower looper thread breaks during sewing, cut and remove thread from both of the needles.

Before re-threading the lower looper, make sure that the lower looper re-threading is done exactly as diagrammed. The machine will not operate properly if the threading is not done in the proper sequence.

CAUTION

Thread the needles after the lower looper and upper looper have been threaded.

Before sliding the lower looper threading lever, make sure the needle is at its highest position.

2. Pass the thread as illustrated.

Threading the upper looper

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the pink color and the numbers next to each threading point.

5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading points 5678 next to the pink color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure to thread only through the upper thread take up 7.

6. Pass the thread through the eye of the upper looper 9.

NOTE: If the upper looper thread breaks during sewing: This may be caused by the lower looper thread getting caught on the upper looper. If this happens, lower the upperlooper by turning the hand wheel, remove the lower looper thread from the upper looper, and re-thread the upper looper from at least the tension disc.

1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread holder 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

3. Pass the thread through the thread guide 3 on the top of machine.

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the pink tension adjustment dial.

CAUTION

· Turn off the machine before threading for safety.

· Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine (See

CHAPTER 1 "Turning direction of hand wheel").

Threading the left needle

1. Slide the change switch <A> to the left until it is aligned to the "L" mark on the machine.

<A>

2. Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the yellow color and the numbers next to each threading point.

Threading the right needle

1. Slide the change switch <A> to the right until it is aligned to the "R" mark on the machine.

<A>

2. Run the thread in the sequence illustrated below, following the green color and the numbers next to each threading point.

English

Two needles

One needle

a) Pull the thread off the spool and directly up

through the thread holder 1 and the thread holder 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

b) Hold the thread with your left and right hands,

then pass the thread through the thread guide 3, and then pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the yellow tension adjustment dial.

c) Guide the thread down the channel and across

through the threading points 5 6 7 next to the yellow color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure the thread is through the left of the separater .

Two needles One needle

a) Pull the thread off the spool and directly up

through the thread holder 1 and the thread holder 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

b) Hold the thread with your left and right hands,

then pass the thread through the thread guide 3, and then pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the green tension adjustment dial.

c) Guide the thread down the channel and across

through the threading points 5 6 7 next to the green color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure the thread is through the right of the separater .

Threading the needle

(using the needle threader)

The needle can be threaded by one-touch operation using the needle threader.

1. Lower the presser foot lever 1 to lower the presser foot.

4. Lower the needle threader lever 6 on the left side of the machine as much as possible.

2. Pull the end of the thread, which has been passed through the needle bar thread guide 2, to the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the thread guide 3, and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the thread guide disk 4 all the way.

NOTE: Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide 3.

The thread passes through the eye of the

needle.

5. Release the needle threader lever 6.

6. Carefully pull the loop of the thread through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

7. Raise the presser foot lever 1, then pass the end of the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

3. Cut the thread with the thread cutter 5 on the left side of the machine.

5cm

CHAPTER 4 SEWING MATERIALS,THREADS AND NEEDLES COMPARISON CHART

Material

Fine materials:

Georgette Lawn Organdy Tricot

Fine materials:

Georgette Lawn Organdy Tricot

Medium materials:

Broad cloth Gabardine Serge

Stitch

Overlock stitch

Narrow over lock/Rolled hemming stitch

Overlock stitch

Stitch Length

(mm)

2.0 - 3.0

R - 2.0

2.5 - 3.5

Thread

Spun #80 - 90 Cotton #100 Filament #80 - 100

Needle thread : Spun #80 - 90 Filament #80 - 100

Looper thread : Woolly nylon thread Spun #80 - 90 Filament #80 - 100

Spun #60 - 80 Cotton #60 - 80 Filament #60 - 80

Needle

SCHMETZ 130/705H #80

English

SCHMETZ 130/705H #80

SCHMETZ 130/705H #80 #90

Medium materials:

Broad cloth

Heavy materials:

Tweed Denim Knits

NOTE: Decorative thread will work best in the upper looper for fashion sewing.

Narrow over lock/Rolled hemming stitch

Overlock stitch

R - 2.0

3.0 - 4.0

Needle thread : Spun #60 - 80 Filament #60 - 80

Looper thread : Woolly nylon thread Spun #60 - 80 Filament #60 - 80

Cotton #50 - 60 Spun #60 Filament #50 - 60

SCHMETZ 130/705H #80 #90

SCHMETZ 130/705H #90

CHAPTER 5 SEWING

Stitch selection

Select the stitch pattern before you start sewing. This sewing machine can sew five different stitches by following the simple steps below:

Four-thread overlock stitch

Use all four threads and two needles for producing four-thread overlock stitches.

Use: Produces strong seam. Ideal for sewing knits and wovens.

Three-thread overlock stitch 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Use three threads and the left needle, producing 5 mm (3/16 inch) seams.

Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses, slacks, etc. Ideal for medium to heavy materials.

NOTE: Remove the right needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

Two-thread overlock stitch 2.8 mm (7/64 inch)

Use two threads and the right needle, producing

2.8 mm (7/64 inch) seams. Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses,

slacks, etc. Ideal for fine to medium materials.

NOTE: Remove the left needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

Narrow overlock stitch 2.0mm (5/64 inch) and

Rolled hemming stitch 2.0mm (5/64 inch)

Use as decorative or finishing stitch. See "Narrow overlock/Rolled hemming stitch" in this chapter for details.

NOTE: You can use the optional accessory foot for even more varieties of stitches. See CHAPTER 8 for details.

Three-thread overlock stitch 2.8 mm (7/64 inch)

Use three threads and the right needle, producing

2.8 mm (7/64 inch) seams.

Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses, slacks, etc. Ideal for fine to medium materials.

NOTE: Remove the left needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

Two-thread overlock stitch 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Use two threads and the left needle, producing 5 mm (3/16 inch) seams.

Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses, slacks, etc. Ideal for fine to medium materials.

NOTE: Remove the right needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

Test sewing

Make the test sewing before you start sewing.

1. Set the thread tension as follows: <For the four-thread overlock stitch and

three-thread overlock stitch>

· Set all the thread tension to "4". <For the one-needle two-thread overlock

stitch>

· Set the needle thread tension to "2".

· Set the lower looper thread tension to "6".

(See "Chart of two-thread overlock stitch" in this chapter for details.)

2. Thread the machine and pull all threads out

about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the presser foot.

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