B&M TORK MASTER 3000 C4 26 SPLINE 10.5 User Manual

Torque Converter

Installation Instructions

for

Ford, Lincoln, Mercury

C-4, C-6 and AOD

© 1995, 2002 B&M Racing and Performance Products

Congratulations. You have just
purchased the best performing and high­est quality torque converter available.
We feel the installation instructions on
the following pages are as complete
and clear as possible. Anyone with a
minimum of mechanical experience
should be capable of installing a torque
converter using the proper tools and
following instructions. It is important to
closely follow the instructions. Read
each step and if you don’t understand
go back and read it again.

Included are part numbers for
flexplates and other components which
may aid in installation. Every attempt
has been made to assure the accuracy
of this information. These instructions
are aimed at making your installation
as easy and simple as possible.

INTRODUCTION

The torque converter in your auto­matic transmission is a unique device
and must perform several functions:
First, it must provide some slip at an
idle so the engine does not stall when
the vehicle is stopped and the engine is
running.
Second, it multiplies torque under ini­tial accelerations to provide more power
to the rear wheels. The typical torque
multiplication of a torque converter is
about 2:1. This means that the torque
converter is actually doubling engine
torque or power on initial acceleration.
Some high stall converters have torque
multiplication as high as 2.6:1.

Printed in the U.S.A.

Third, the torque converter must have
as little slippage as possible under
normal driving conditions so the engine
operates efficiently. High stall speed
converters are designed to be as effi­cient as possible at high rpm for maxi­mum mph.
Fourth, the torque converter must have
reverse coupling to slow the vehicle
when you downshift to second or low.
Traveler torque converters are designed
to give maximum deceleration for im­proved engine braking.

All of the above functions occur
automatically under various operating
conditions. The torque converter is a
simple and yet complex piece of equip­ment. Improper installation will re-

sult in poor performance and possi­ble damage to the torque converter
and/or transmission. Read all in-

structions first to familiarize yourself
with the parts and procedures. Work
slowly and do not force any parts.
Burrs and dirt are the number one
enemies of automatic transmission
assembly. Cleanliness is very impor­tant. Avoid getting any dirt or foreign
particles in the transmission or torque
converter.

Automatic transmissions operate
at temperatures between 1500F and
2500F. It is suggested that the vehicle
be allowed to cool for a few hours to
avoid burns from hot oil and parts. The
vehicle should be off the ground for ease
of installation. Jack stands, wheel
ramps or a hoist will work fine. Make

sure the vehicle is firmly support­ed!! Try to raise it 1 - 2 feet so you have

plenty of room to work easily. Also
have a small box or pan handy to put
bolts in so they won’t be lost, and a
drain pan to catch oil. We suggest you
rent a transmission jack from a rental
yard to remove the transmission as the
transmission/converter assembly is
heavy. A regular floor jack may be used
if a transmission jack is unavailable.

Due to variations between different
car models, exact instructions for every
vehicle cannot be provided. These
instructions are sufficient for all vehicle
installations. You may find it neces­sary to disconnect and lower exhaust
pipes during transmission removal.
STEP 1. Drain oil pan. This will make
less of a mess during transmission
removal. C-6, C-4 and AOD transmis­sions do not have drain plugs. Some
models of C-4 transmissions have a
dipstick tube which screws into the oil
pan. This can be loosened to drain the
oil pan. If you do not have a drain plug,
you should consider installing a B&M
Drain Plug Kit, P/N 80250, while trans­mission is out of vehicle. If your trans­mission does not have a drain plug or a
dipstick tube in the oil pan, loosen the
oil pan bolts to allow the fluid to drain.
After the fluid has drained, snug the oil
pan back into place.
STEP 2. Remove driveshaft. Be careful
not to damage the smooth bushing
diameter on slip yoke models. Do not
let the cups fall off the U-joint crosses.

9500198-03

Kickdown lever

Column Shift

lever

Figure 1

Console Shift

lever

Kickdown

lever

You may lose some of the needle
bearings if the cups fall on the ground.
It is a good idea to tape the cups to the
U-joint cross, so they won’t fall off.
Now is a good time to clean and in­spect your U-joints.
STEP 3. Disconnect vacuum line to
vacuum modulator. Disconnect
kickdown linkage. (See Figs. 1&2)
Remove clip holding rod or cable to
kickdown lever and allow rod or cable to
hang free. Disconnect shifter:

Column Shift Models: Disconnect
rod or cable from shift lever on trans­mission. (See Fig. 1) The rod or
cable is retained by a clip or by
snapping into a plastic grommet.
Remove clip or pry rod out of grom­met and allow linkage to hang free.
Cable models; unbolt cable bracket
from bell housing and allow cable to
hang free.
Console Shift Models: Disconnect
rod from shift lever on transmission.
(See Fig. 2) The rod is retained by a
clip or by snapping into a plastic
grommet. Remove clip or pry rod out
of grommet and allow linkage to hang
free.

'70 and Later Vehicles Equipped

Neutral saftey

switch harness

Figure 2

With Locking Steering Column And
Console Shifter: Disconnect col-

umn lock rod from transmission shift
lever and allow it to hang free.
4 Wheel Drive Models: Remove

knob from transfer case shift lever.
STEP 4. Loosen and disconnect speed­ometer cable:

Clamp Type Cable: Remove bolt or

speedometer cable clamp. Pull

speedometer cable out of extension

housing and let it hang free.

Sleeve Type Cable: Loosen cable

sleeve. Pull speedometer cable out of

speedometer housing and let it hang

free.
STEP 5. Disconnect oil cooler lines.
Use a fitting wrench, if available, to avoid
damage to compression nuts. We
recommend that the oil cooler lines be
flushed out to remove any foreign par­ticles trapped in the cooler. Cooler lines
should be flushed in both directions with
solvent and air pressure.
STEP 6. Remove dipstick and tube
assembly. Remove torque converter
access cover bolts and remove con­verter access cover. Remove flexplate
to converter nuts. Use starter motor to
“bump” each bolt into position.
STEP 7. Disconnect neutral safety
switch on vehicles equipped with neu­tral safety switch mounted on the trans­mission by unplugging connector ends
on wire harness. Allow connector ends
to hang free.
STEP 8. Remove starter motor assem­bly and tie it up out of the way. On some
vehicles, it is difficult to remove the
starter completely, so it is easier to
simply support it out of the way.
STEP 9. Support the transmission with
a jack. Remove the transmission rear
mount bolts. Raise the transmission
slightly and remove the crossmember.
Be sure the transmission jack supports
the transmission on a wide area so you
don’t crush the oil pan.
STEP 10. Remove the bellhousing
bolts. Lower transmission until the
engine is supported. Pull transmission
back slightly away from engine. Make
sure converter stays with transmission.
Lower transmission/converter assem­bly and remove from vehicle. Caution:
4 Wheel Drive Vehicles: Transmis­sion/converter transfer case assembly
is heavy. Exercise care during removal

if your transfer case bolts to the trans­mission.
STEP 11. Pull converter off the front of
the transmission. Some oil will leak
out at this time. On C-4, C-6 and AOD
transmission, the input shaft may pull
out of the transmission when you re­move the torque converter. Do not be
alarmed.

C-4: Install the short splined end
of the input shaft into the transmis­sion until the splines engage the
drum inside the transmission. Push
the shaft in all the way until it stops.
C-6: Install the long splined end of
the input shaft into the transmission
until the splines engage the drum
inside the transmission. Push the

shaft in all the way until it stops.
Important C-4 ONLY: C-4 transmis­sions have either a 24T or 26T (Early &
Late models) spline input shaft. Re­move the input shaft and insert it into
your B&M converter. Be sure that the
input shaft engages the spline inside of
the torque converter and is a good fit
into the spline. Install input shaft into
transmission as previously described.
STEP 12. Inspect your engine block
and engine plate. Make sure there are
no burrs that will prevent the transmis­sion from bolting down flat against the
engine. File off any burrs that may be
present. Dowel pins should stick out of
the engine block a minimum of 1/2" for
proper alignment. (See Fig. 3) Insuffi­cient dowel pin engagement can cause
front seal and/or bushing failure due to
improper engine/transmission align­ment. Bellhousing bolts alone will

not align the transmission properly.

Dowel pins must
stick out 1/2" for
proper transmis­sion engagement

Figure 3