Bernina L 450 operation manual

BERNINA L 460 | L 450
Instruction Manual
Safety Instructions 2
Reading Instructions 4
Accessory 8
Machine Setup 9
Operating Instructions 12
Control elements 12
Needle and Thread 18
Needle 18
Adjusting and Setting 20
Differential Feed adjustment 22
Gathering 22
Threading and Sewing 23
Stitch overview 23
Threading - General information 24
4-/3-thread overlock (Stitch No. 1, 3-8, 30) 25
Upper looper converter (Stitches 2, 9-15) 29
L 460 L 450
Contents
Narrow seam, Rolled Hem and Picot stitch (Stitch 7, 8, 13, 30) 30
Test sewing 31
Adjusting thread tensions 32
Sewing examples 33
Maintenance 37
Replacing the upper knife 37
Cleaning and Oiling 37
Troubleshooting Guide 38
Optional Accessories 39
Blind stitch foot 39
Elasticator Foot 40
Multi-purpose Foot 41
Piping 41
Gathering foot 42
Appendix 43
Technical Summary 43
Thread Chart 45
3-thread overlock (LN) 47
3-thread overlock (RN) 48
3-thread flatlock (LN) 49
3-thread flatlock (RN) 50
3-thread narrow seam 51
3-thread rolled hem 52
2-thread overlock (LN) 53
2-thread overlock (RN) 54
2-thread flatlock (LN) 55
2-thread flatlock (RN) 56
2-thread rolled hem 57
2-thread overlock (LN) 58
2-thread overlock (RN) 59
3-thread picot stitch 60
1
L 460 L 450
Safety Instructions
Safety Instructions
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Precautions should always be followed, including the following:
Read all the instructions before using this machine.
In general when the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply.
DANGER!
As a protection against electrical shock:
1. The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from the electrical outlet after using and before cleaning.
3. LED Radiation. Do not view directly with optical instruments. Class 1M LED product.
WARNING!
As a protection against burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
1. Use this machine only for purposes as described in this manual. Use only attach ments, accessories and parts recommended by the manufacturer.
2. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this machine is used by or near children. The machine is not intended for use by persons (and children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabili ties or lack of experience and knowledge. Unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the machine by a person responsible for their safety. To ensure children do not play with the machine they must be supervised.
Never operate this machine if:
the cord or the plug are damaged,
it is not working properly,
it has been dropped or damaged,
it has fallen into water.
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3. Return the machine to your local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair.
4. Never operate the machine with any air open ings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Spe cial care is required around the sewing needle and the knife.
6. Never insert any objects into any openings on the machine.
7. Do not use the machine outdoors.
8. Do not operate the machine where aerosol
products (sprays) or oxygen are being used.
9. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. This can result in needle breakage.
10. Switch the machine off «0» when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the looper, or changing the presser foot.
11. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, when covers are opened to raise the knife or thread the loopers, when lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Always use the original BERNINA stitch plate.
The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage.
14. This machine is provided with double insula tion (except for USA and Canada). Use only original spare parts. See instructions for ser vicing of double-insulated products.
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2
Safety Instructions
SERVICING DOUBLEINSU­LATED PRODUCTS
L 460 L 450
In a double-insulated product two systems of insu­lation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a dou ble-insulated product must be identical to the origi­nal parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words: «Double insulation» or «Double insulated».
The symbol
may also mark such a product.
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LIABILITY
No liability will be assumed for any possible dam­age which arises from misuse of this machine.
This machine is intended for household use only.
This machine meets the European Standard 2004/108/EC concerning the electromagnetic toler ance.
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Environmental Protection
BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.
When your machine won't be used any more, dispose this product in an environ­mentally responsible way according to the national directive. Do not throw away this product with your household waste. In case of doubt, please contact your local BERNINA dealer.
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.
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Please find the latest version of your instruction manual at www.bernina.com
KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS SAFE!
3
L 460 L 450
Reading Instructions
DANGER!
Very important! Risk of injury!
Tips and hints!
L 460 L 450
The tag is not always at the top of the page but also at the top of the description!
Reading Instructions
Hint for L 450 users
All pictures show the L 460 except for specifically marked ones. The operation of the L 450 is identical to the L 460 unless it is specified otherwise.
Hint for US customers
Overlockers as referred to in this manual are widely called "sergers" in the USA.
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the machine's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The included accessories can differ from country to country.
4
L 460 L 450
Welcome
Dear BERNINA customer
Congratulations on your decision to buy the BERNINA overlocker/serger!
It is made to the highest standards and we hope it will give you countless hours of satisfy­ing sewing time. Whether your project is garment sewing, home decoration or even patch­work/quilting, by cutting, sewing and neatening in one fast and smooth operation your BERNINA overlocker/serger will give your work a professional look.
Your BERNINA L 460 / L 450 is a 4-/3-/2-thread overlocker/serger particularly well suited for sewing stretch and thin fabrics. Buying a BERNINA overlocker/serger not only allows you to perform these basic functions to perfection, but furthermore you are supplemented with many exclusive BERNINA features, making your sewing experience even more joy­ful. Depending on the actual model such features are the BERNINA Free-Hand System, electronic motor control for precise sewing, an automatic needle stop and last but not least the patented "mtc" Micro Thread Control.
Make sure to study this instruction manual in order to get full benefit of all these functions. Should you require further assistance, your BERNINA dealer will be a good choice to visit. He also carries a selection of optional accessories, which extends the application range of your BERNINA overlocker/serger even further. We are happy to welcome you in the BERNINA sewing family and wish you many hours of happy overlocking/serging and wonderful sewing experiences with your BERNINA L 460 / L 450.
Peter Horisberger, Product Manager, BERNINA International AG – CH-8266 Steckborn / Switzerland
5
L 460
L 450
Machine overview
Front view L 450 / L 460
28
25
26
27
987
10
6
5
3
4
3
2
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
1
1 Sewing table 2 Presser foot release lever 3 Needle holder 4 Presser foot lifter 5 Thread Cutter 6 Dual LED Sewing Light 7 Presser foot pressure regulator 8 Retractable Top Thread Guide 9 Thread tension adjustments (yellow) 10 Thread tension adjustments (green) 11 Thread tension adjustments (blue) 12 Thread tension adjustments (red) 13 Thread Guide 14 Threading Chart 15 Thread Guide Looper 16 Handwheel Position Indicator
22
2324
17 Needle Pad 18 Looper Cover 19 Accessories Storage 20 Safety indicator 21 Upper looper 22 Cutting Width dial 23 Presser Foot 24 Stitch Plate 25 Thread Guide Needle Holder 26 Needle Checking Window 27 Set screw 28 Thread Guide 29 Micro Thread Control lever 30 Rolled Hem Selection lever 31 Knife guard 32 Knife
2021
19
33 Lower looper 34 Thread pretension 35 SpoolStabilizer 36 Thread Stand 37 Stitch Length dial 38 Differential dial 39 Power switch 40 Power/Foot Control Socket 41 Handwheel 42 Looper Cover 43 Lower looper threader lever 44 Knife on/off 45 Cutting Width Indicator 46 Power Control Socket 47 Foot Control Socket
48 Kneelifter Socket
18
6
Side view L 450 / L460
L 460 L 450
Machine overview
34
35
36
32
33
22
29
45
31
30
32
33
37
38
39
40
1
2143
42
L 450
41
44
39
L 460
46
2143
48
41
47
7
Accessory
L 460 L 450
Machine overview
1
4
1 Foot Control / Power Cord (L 450)
(Typ YC-483N for 230V or YC 482E for 120V)
2 Foot Control (L 460 - BERNINA Typ LV 1) 3 Power Cord (L 460) 4 Cut-offsbin
2
3
Accessory storage in the looper cover
5 Needle set 130/705H (2x No.70, 3x No.80) 6 Hexagon screw driver (1.5 mm) 7 Brush 8 Tweezers 9 Upper looper converter 10 Needle Threader / -Inserter
6
7
5
1312 14
11
16
19 20 21
8
17
10
9
15
18
Other accessory
11 Accessory box 12 Oiler 13 Spare knife 14 Screw driver 15 Seam Guide right 16 Spool net (4x) 17 Thread cap (4x) 18 Screw driver 19 Dust cover 20 Extension Table (L 450 optional) 21 Kneelifter (FHS) (L 460)
8
Machine Setup
Foot control and power cord
L 460
L 460 L 450
Machine Setup
Connection for L 460
3
2
1
Insert the plug of the foot control into the respective sockets (1).
Insert the plug of the power cord into the respective sockets (2).
The power switch (3) turns the machine and the sewing light on/off.
1 Foot Control Socket 2 Power Control Socket 3 Power switch
L 450
Cut-offs bin
3
Connection for L 450
Insert the plugs of the foot control / power cord into the respec­tive sockets (4).
4
Insert the power plug into the wall outlet.
The power switch (3) turns the machine and the sewing light on/off.
3 Power switch 4 Power/Foot Control Socket
Polarized plug information (Canada/USA only)
Polarized plug information (Canada/USA only) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way to reduce the risk of electrical shock. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
A
Make sure that the looper cover is closed before you attach the cut-offs bin.
1
Clip the cut-offs bin into the openings on the looper cover. It catches the cutoff fabric as you sew. This keeps your working area
B
C
2
neat and tidy.
Position the connection bar (2) in the opening (C). Insert the two pins (1) into the respective openings (A,B) and let it snap into place.
When storing the machine, leave the cut-offs bin attached for storing the foot control.
1 Upper pins 2 Lower pin
9
L 460 L 450
Extension Table (L 450 optional)
1
Machine Setup
The extension table provides a large working surface for your sewing projects.
To attach, slide the extension table from the left side horizontally along the ditch until it engages.
To remove, slide the table to the left side while pushing the release button at the back of the table.
1 Release button
Retractable Top Thread Guide
1
1 Thread Guide
1
Pull up the retractable thread stand fully, turning it slightly until the two positioning pins engage. This will align the Thread Guide (1) parallel to the Thread Stand. Make sure the lower part of the telescopic support rod (2) is pulled out of the housing all the way to achieve the optimum height. When storing the overlock machine, the base of the retractable thread stand can be pushed back into the housing. For transportation the thread guides hold the thread spools in place by bringing down the stand as illustrated.
10
Spool Stabilizer
L 460 L 450
Machine Setup
Spool stabilizer for cones
With small cones the Spool stabilizer (1) is used with the narrow end upwards. With large cones the Spool stabilizer (2) is used with the narrow end downwards.
1
2
3
4
Spool caps for domestic type spools
For standard type spools, use the spool cap (3).
Spool net
Polyester or bulky nylon threads become loose while unwinding. To keep consistent feed­ing of such threads, pull the spool net over the spool.
1 small thread cone with Spool stabilizer 2 large cone with Spool stabilizer upside down 3 Spool cap 4 Thread spool 5 Spool net
5
11
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
Control elements
Power switch
Looper cover
Operating Instructions
The power switch controls both the machine power and the sewing light. When leaving the machine unattended, or servicing the machine, switch the machine off, and remove the power cord from the wall outlet.
To open the looper cover, pull it to the right and flip it down­wards.
2
To close the looper cover, flip it upwards and push it to the left. It engages automatically.
Sewing table
1
2
1
1
1 Grip on the sewing table 2 Opening the sewing table
The cut-offs bin needs to be removed before the looper cover is opened.
To open the sewing table, hold onto the grip near the cutting width dial (1) and push it to the left (2).
To close the sewing table, swivel it to the right until it engages.
12
Foot control
Needle up/down (L 460)
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
The pressure on the foot control regulates the sewing speed.
L 460
Safety LED L 460
L 460
After sewing, the needle always stops at its highest position.
Adjust the up/down position of the needle by sinking the heel back on the foot control.
When the Safety LED is activated, the machine will not run.
Reasons and actions:
The looper cover is open.
Make sure that the looper cover is closed properly.
The sewing table is open.
Make sure that the sewing table is closed properly.
The presser foot is up
Make sure that the presser foot is lowered properly. Do not lift the presser foot while the machine is in operation.
If overheating should occour, the motor will be cut off and the Safety LED will flash.
Switch off the machine for 10 - 15 Minutes to cool down. Afterwards sewing can be continued.
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L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
Handwheel and handwheel position indicator window
The handwheel turns counter-clockwise.
Open the looper cover to check the handwheel position indicator. Then set the hand­wheel to threading position.
With the L 460, the needle stops at threading position automatically after sewing.
The needle and the looper are at the threading position (high), when the red bar on the handwheel is aligned with the black triangle in the handwheel position indicator.
Two step presser foot lifter with front foot lift
2
1
3
To raise the presser foot, push up the presser foot lifter until it engages (1).
Press the presser foot lifter even further (2) for an extra raise of the presser foot and to lift the tip (front foot lift).
1 Lifter position 1 2 Lifter position 2 3 Front foot lift
As soon as the presser foot is lifted, the thread tension discs release auto­matically and allow safe threading.
Changing the presser foot
4
5
14
Make sure that the needle is in the highest position.
Raise the presser foot.
Press the presser foot release lever (4) to release the presser foot and remove it.
To attach the foot, place it under the shaft.
The groove in the shaft must line up exactly with the presser foot pin (5).
Lower the shank and the presser foot engages.
FHS Free hand system L 460
L 460
2
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
The Free Hand System lever allows raising the presser foot without using the hands.
Insert the FHS lever into the FHS Connection (1).
Pushing the FHS lever to the right with the knee (2) raises the presser foot.
Wurde der Nähfuss mit dem Nähfussheber angehoben (3), kann er mit dem Kniehebel gesenkt werden, in dem dieser ganz nach rechts gedrückt und langsam losgelassen
1
wird.
Die seitliche Position des Kniehebels kann durch ein BERNINA-Fachgeschäft etwas angepasst werden.
3
Changing the needle
1
1 Kneelifter Socket 2 Operating direction 3 Raising the presser foot
Lower the presser foot.
Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the handwheel counter-clock­wise.
Loosen the needle set screw and remove the needle. In doing so, use the 1.5mm hex screw driver which is provided in the looper cover.
Insert the new needle (flat side to the back) into the needle holder and push it all the way up. Use the needle checking window (3) to check the needle position.
Tighten the set screw.
1 Set screws 2 Needle (flat side to the back) 3 Needle checking window
2
3
Use needles of the system 130/705H. „Needle and Thread“ see page 18.
15
Needle Inserter
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
To handle the needle conveniently use the Needle Threader /
-Inserter which is provided in the Accesssories Storage.
Sliding the Needle Inserter over the needle before loosening the set screw avoids dropping the needle.
The new needle is held in place by the Needle Inserter while inserting and tightening the screw.
Needle Threader
C D
E F
BA
Threading the needle A Metal rod in Y-shaped threader B Hold the needle threader with the triangle shaped mark
upwards and guide the thread horizontally through the Y-shaped slot.
C While gently pulling the thread end, push the nose of the nee-
dle threader onto the needle shaft and start sliding down. Please Note: Push the Threader only gently towards the nee­dle in order not to damage the metal rod.
D When having reached the needle eye, push, so that the metal
rod slides through the eye, taking along the thread.
E By slowly retracting the needle threader, a thread loop will be
left behind the needle.
F Pull the thread end completely through the eye and place the
thread end under the presser foot.
Needle pad
16
In the convenient needle pad you can store needles temporarily if only one of them is used or if special needles are inserted.
Knife
1
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
Deactivating the knife
Open the sewing table and the looper cover.
Press the knife activating knob on/off (1) und turn clockwise (2) until the knife engages at the lower position.
Close the sewing table and the looper cover.
2
3
Activating the knife
Open the sewing table and the looper cover.
Press the knife activating knob on/off (1) und turn counter-clockwise (2) until the knife engages at the upper position.
Close the sewing table and the looper cover.
When working with lowered knife, make sure that the fabric edge is not wider than the selected cutting width. Otherwise the upper looper and the needle can be damaged.
Thread cutter
Seam Guide right
After sewing, bring the thread up and pull it over the cutter from back to front.
Pull the thread down to cut it.
The chain of thread will be clamped in the thread cutter to be ready for the next piece of fabric.
Open the sewing table.
Attach the Seam Guide by adjusting the two hooks on the right side to the Stitch Plate and then push the Seam Guide down to the left.
Sliding the fabric along the right side of the guide provides constant a cutting distance from the raw edge of the fabric.
The cutout (3) in the center of the lower mounting bar indicates the position of the left needle. Scales are provided in mm (1) and inches (2).
1
1 Scale in mm 2 Scale in inches
2
3
3 Cutout
17
Needle and Thread
Needle
Needle condition
L 460 L 450
Operating Instructions
This overlocker is prepared to hold needles of the system 130/705H (standard household needles, equivalent to HAx1 of the system 15x1 H). For standard applications use universal needles of the sizes No.70-90 (equivalent to 10-14 in the US). For fine jersey or delicate stretchy fabric use medium ballpoint needles 130/705 H-S or SUK (equivalent to HAx1SP, JLx2 or ELx705).
Needles must be in perfect condition to achieve best sewing results. Please check the needles before each sewing project. Defective needles may not only damage the sewing project, but can also damage the overlocker.
Needles must not be:
A bent or crooked B damaged or blunt C have hooked points
Needle, thread and application table
Thread Needle Where Application
All purpose overlock thread 120/2 (polyester)
Polyester sewing thread 80-90 Needles and loopers Seam in all fabrics
Spun polyester Loopers only Neatening edges
Bulked threads (Wooly Nylon) Loopers only Soft seams in knits, rolled hems
Embroidery/darning and decorative threads Loopers only Neatening edges, rolled hems, flatlocks
70-90 Needles and loopers For all overlock stitches
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