Bernina dcet 2500 User Manual
Mastering the
BERNINA
BERNINA
BERNINABERNINA
2500 SERIES
OWNER’S GUIDECLASS
WORKBOOK
SECTION A
LETS START WITH THE BASICS
1999 BERNINA of America
SECTION A – LETS START WITH THE BASICS
M
ACHINE SET UP
• Identifying the Serger Parts – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Instruction Manual pg.____
• Assembling the Thread Stand – Instruction Manual pg.___
• The Waste Collector
• Power Switch – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Light Switch– Instruction Manual pg.___
• The Looper Cover – Instruction Manual pg.___
Loopers – what are they? – Instruction Manual pg.___
Tool Storage
Safety Feature – machine won’t sew when the Cover is open
• Swing Out Presser Foot – Instruction Manual pg.___
For easier threading
For easier removal and insertion of Needles
Safety feature – the machine won’t sew
Use the Needle Stop Button to raise the Needles
Raise the Presser Foot
Swing the Presser Foot to the left
• Free Arm Cover – Instruction Manual pg.___
For serging tubular projects
Slides off to engage free arm
T
HREADS
• Types to use
• The importance of quality threads
N
EEDLES
• Always start with a new Needle
• Match the Needle to the fabric and thread – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Change the Needle often
• Using the Needle Inserter
• Loosening/re-tightening Needle screws
S
TITCH SELECTION DIAL
• Selecting stitches
• Understanding the code – Instruction Manual pg.___
– Instruction Manual pg.___
– Instruction Manual pg.___
– S
1999 BERNINA of America
TITCH SELECTION PANEL
page 2
N
EEDLE STOP BUTTON
• Ne edle Up - Overlock sewing
• Needle Down – Cover/Chain Stitch sewing
– Instruction Manual pg.___
C
ONVERSION TO OVERLOCK SEWING
• Conver sion Chart – Instruction Manual pg.___
• The Converter Arm
Use the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles
• Removing the Cover/Chain Stitch Extension Plate – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Installing the Knife Guard – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Raising/Lowering the Knife Arm– Instruction Manual pg.___
• Rotating the Upper Knife into Cutting Position– Instruction Manual pg.___
T
HREADING FOR OVERLOCK SERGING
• Cone Holders and Spool Caps – Instruction Manual pg.___
Cone Holders used for large cones of serger thread
Turn the Cone Holders upside down for the larger based cone threads.
Spool Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools
• Raise the Presser Foot when threading
Releases the pressure on the tension disks
• The Threading Path – Instruction Manual pg.___
Use the road map inside the Looper Cover as a quick reference guide.
• Threading the First Thread Guide on All Threads – Instruction Manual pg.___
Wrap the thread from left to right to lock the thread into the guide.
• Threading Order
First – Upper Looper
This thread lies against the body of the serger.
Second – Lower Looper
Third – Center Needle
Fourth – Left Needle
• Thread the Upper Looper – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Thread the Lower Looper – Instruction Manual pg.___
The Lower Looper Auto Threader – Instruction Manual pg.___
Rotate the Handwheel to bring the Looper to the right before engaging
the Looper Threader
• Thread the Center Needle -– Instruction Manual pg._ __
• The Needle Clamp Guide – Instruction Manual pg.___
• Optional - Using the Quick Needle Threader from a BERNINA sewing machine.
•
Thread the Left Needle – Instruction Manual pg.___
1999 BERNINA of America
page 3
T
EST SEWING
– Instruction Manual pg.___
• Lift the Toe to place the fabric under the Presser Foot
• Lift the Presser Foot for thick fabric or when accurate fabric placement
is needed.
• Chain off the fabric.
• Use the built in Thread Cutter to cut the Thread Chain.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 4
TENSION THEORY
A BALANCED 4-THREAD STITCH
Instruction Manual pg.___
Serger Library -
Tips and Tricks
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch Display panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using thread colors to match
the Color-Coded Threading Path on the serger.
•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.
•To begin stitching, lift the front of the Presser Foot with your right thumb
and slide the fabric under the Presser Foot. Release the tip of the Presser
Foot and begin serging.
•Serge to the end of the fabric.
•Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3”- 4” Thread Chain.
•Locate the Thread Cutter on the left side of the serger and cut the thread
chain (from right to left).
•Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch
graphic on page__ of the Instruction Manual.
•Read the information under Fine Tuning on page__ of the Instruction Manual
for information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch
irregularities.
•Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.
•Trim and mount the sample.
FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
(yellow,green,blue,red)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
1999 BERNINA of America
page 5
ADJUSTING TENSIONS
FABRIC: 6 pieces of firm woven fabric 3” X 4”
1 piece of light weight woven cotton 3” X 4”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
(yellow,green,blue,red)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual pg.____
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks
OWER LOOPER
L
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch
Display panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using thread
colors to match the Color-Coded Threading Path on the serger.
•Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” X 4” and set aside.
•Locate the Fine Tuning levers on the front of the serger. From
left to right these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle,
the Center Needle, the Upper Looper or Right Needle, and
the Lower Looper.
•Adjust the Lower Looper Fine Tuning Lever to increase (up)
the tension on the Looper thread.
•Place the first piece of folded fabric under the Presser Foot
with the fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric,
cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the
edge of the fabric. The Upper Looper thread is pulled tightly
to the back of the stitch. The Left Needle thread may be
pulled to the back of the stitch.
• Trim, label, and mount the sample.
• Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return
tensions to normal.
• Adjust the Lower Looper Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down)
the tension on the Looper thread.
• Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the
edge of the fabric. The Lower Looper thread is visible on the
face of the fabric. The Looper threads are very loose.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 6
PPER LOOPER
U
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.
•Adjust the Upper Looper Fine Tuning Lever to increase (up) the tension on the
Looper thread.
•Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The
Lower Looper thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch.
•Label, trim, and mount the sample.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.
•Adjust the Upper Looper Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down) the tension on the
Looper thread.
•Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The
Upper Looper thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The Looper threads are
very loose.
•Label, trim, and mount the sample.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 7
ENTER NEEDLE
C
•Adjust the Center Needle Fine Tuning Lever to decrease
(down) the tension on the Needle thread.
•Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The Needle thread forms a large loop on
the back of the fabric.
•Label, trim, and mount the sample.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to
return tensions to normal.
L
EFT NEEDLE
•Adjust the Left Needle Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down)
the tension on the Needle thread.
•Serge the sixth piece of fabric cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The Needle thread forms a large loop on
the back of the fabric.
•Label, trim, and mount the sample.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to
return tensions to normal.
Both Needles
•Adjust both the Left and Center Needle Fine Tuning
Levers to increase (up) the tension on the Needle threads.
•Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” X 4”.
•Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
•Examine the sample. The stitch is puckering the fabric.
•Label, trim, and mount the sample.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to
return tensions to normal.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 8
STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
Instruction Manual pg.___
•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.
•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the
folded edge.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch Display panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Locate the Stitch Length Dial on the right end of the machine.
•Turn the Stitch Length Dial to 4.
•Serge to the first mark along the folded edge of the fabric, trimming the
folded edge as you serge.
•Turn the Stitch Length Dial, adjusting the Stitch Length to 3 and serge to
the second mark.
•Adjust Stitch Length to 2 and serge to the third mark.
•Adjust Stitch Length to 1 and serge to the end of the fabric.
•Mark the Stitch Length settings on the sample.
•Compare the Stitch Length sample to the Balanced 4-thread sample to see how
Stitch Length affects the balance of the Overlock stitch.
•Trim and mount the sample.
FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
1999 BERNINA of America
page 9
CUTTING WIDTH ADJU STM E N TS
Instruction Manual
•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.
pg,___
FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
•Divide and mark the fabric into 3 equal sections along the folded edge.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to sele ct “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Turn the Stitch Length Dial to 2.5 (normal).
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Locate the Cutting Width adjustment Dial.
•Rotate the Upper Knife up.
•Adjust Cutting Width to 3.
•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.
•Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the Knife edge is on the
mark.
•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 and serge to the second mark.
•Adjust the Cutting Width to 1 and serge to the end of the fabric.
•Mark the Cutting Width settings on the sample.
•Rotate the Upper Knife up.
•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).
•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.
•Compare the Cutting Width sample to the Balanced 4-thread sample to see how
Cutting Width affects the balance of the Overlock stitch.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 10
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
FABRICS THAT STRETC H
Instruction Manual
FABRIC: 3 pieces ribbing each cut
2”cut the length of the fabric
5” cut the width of the fabric
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___
•
Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).
•Locate the Differential Feed Dial on the right end of the machine and adjust to
“N”(normal).
•Serge two of the ribbing pieces together along the 5” side.
•Turn the Differential Feed Dial to 2.
•Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other side of the piece.
•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” (normal).
•Compare the seams to see how Differential Feed settings reduce stretching.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 11
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
FABRICS THAT PUCKER
FABRIC: Batiste 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual pg.____
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.____
Serger Library – Construction Basics
•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along the 6” edge.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Adjust the Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).
•Serge to the mark.
•Adjust the Differential Feed Dial to 0.7.
•Serge to the end of the fabric.
•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” (normal).
•Compare the two stitchings to see how the Differential Feed settings can
reduce fabric puckering.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 12
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Gathering and Easing
FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 12”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
•Using a Fabric Marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the 12” side.
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Turn the Differential Feed Dial to 2.
•Serge to the first mark.
•Adjust Stitch Length to 4 and serge to the second mark.
•Locate the Fine Tuning Levers for the left and Center Needles.
• Move the Fine Tuning Levers up to increase the Needle tensions.
•Serge to the end of the fabric.
•Return the Differential Feed to “N” (normal).
•Return the Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.
•Mark the sample: Differential Feed 2; Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4;
Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4 & Increased Needle tension.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA of America
pg.___
page 13
SECURING THE SEAM
Instruction Manual pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide
Workbook
Serger Library
Tips and Tricks
Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlo c k stitch.
Note – If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or pinking shears to trim the samples, do all
trimming before beginning to sew this sample.
•Fold the fabric in half to 2” X “6” and place the fabric under the Presser Foot.
•Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric.
•Locate the Needle Stop Button on the front of the serger (left side).
•Press the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles into the fabric.
•Raise the Presser Foot and with your left hand gently pull the Thread Chain around the Needles
to the Knife.
•Lower the Pres ser Foot and continue serging (cutting off t he excess Thr ead Chain) un til you are
one (1) stitch off the end of the f abric.
•Locate the Rolled Hem Selection Lever on the right side of the cloth plate.
•Pull the Rolled Hem Selection Lever towards you, releasing the Thread Chain from the stitch
finger.
•Raise the Presser Foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the Lower Looper side of the
previously ser ged sea m wi l l be over stitc h ed .
•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot so t hat the first stitch will enter the fabric wh en you
begin stitching.
•Slide the Rolled Hem Selection Lever towards the body of the serger.
•Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric so as not to cut
the previous stitc hing. Option - Rotate the Upper Knife up.
•Raise the Toe of the Presser Foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.
•Serge off the ed ge of the fabric.
•If the Knife is up, rotate the Upper Knife down into the Cutting Po sition.
•Mount the sample.
pg.___
FABRIC: M edium w e i g h t c o t t o n 4 ” X 6 ”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
1999 BERNINA of America
page 14
Cut out
SERGING A TUBULAR PROJECT
Instruction Manual
pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.
•Press the seam to one side. (The Upper Looper thread is the right side of
the seam.)
•On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” X ¼” section of fabric.
•Locate and remove the Free-Arm/Cloth Plate Cover (left side of the serger).
•Raise the Presser Foot.
•Position the tube of fabric around the free-arm and under the Presser Foot
with the Knife in the center of the cutout.
•Lower the Presser Foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”. Stop
serging when the Knife enters the cutout.
•Rotate the Knife up.
•Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous stitching by 1”.
•Raise the Presser Foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.
•Lower the Presser Foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.
•Return the Knife to the normal Cutting Position.
•Return the Free-Arm/Cloth Plate Cover to the machine.
•Trim and mount the sample.
FABRIC: Firm fabric 3” X 12”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
1999 BERNINA of America
page 15
The Care and Feeding of Your BERNINA Serger
Cleaning and Oiling
Instruction Manual
•Clip all threads at the Thread Guide Support.
•Lift the Presser Foot to release (open) the Thread Tension Disks.
•Gently pull the threads from the serger. Always remove the threads in the
direction of sewing. If you encounter any resistance, stop and rotate the
Handwheel slightly to release the threads from around the Loopers.
•Open the Looper Cover.
•Rotate the Upper Knife up.
•Using a Vacuum Cleaner Adapter or a 1” Cosmetic Brush, remove all lint and
fluff from the Looper, Knife and Feed Dog areas of the machine.
•Following the Oiling Guide inside the Looper Cover, place a drop of oil on each
of the two Oiling Points.
•Remove old Needles and replace them with new Needles.
•Rotate the Upper Knife down into the Cutting Position.
Replacing the Knifes
Instruction Manual pg.___
pg.___
! Serger Knives cut fabric as it is stitched. Just as shears can become dull
through repeated use, serger Knives are also dulled as they cut fabric.
! If the Knives begin to “chew” instead of cut, consider replacing the Lower
Knife.
! If you sew over pins and cut them or run into them with the serger Knives,
both Knives should be replaced.
! Your Authorized BERNINATechnician will need to replace the Upper Knife
for you.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 16
O REPLACE THE LOWER KNIFE
T
:
O THIS ONLY WHEN NECESSARY
D
EW OWNER’S CLASSES
N
•Turn the serger off and unplug the Power Cord from the machine.
•Rotate the Handwheel until the Needles are in their highest position.
•Raise the Presser Foot.
•Swing the Presser Foot to the left.
•Open the Looper Cover.
•Rotate the Upper Knife up.
•With the tip of your finger, assess the level of the Lower Knife in relation to the
Throat Plate.
•Locate the Set Screw and Clamp holding the Lower Knife in place.
• Loosen the Set Screw and Clamp.
•Rotate the Clamp out of the way.
•Remove the damaged/dulled Lower Knife Blade.
•Insert a new Lower Knife Blade into the Groove.
•Rotate the Clamp into position.
•Snug the screw to hold the Knife in place.
•With the tip of your finger, access the level of the Lower Knife in relation to
the Throat Plate. Slide the Lower Knife up/down until the upper edge of the
Knife is correctly positioned in relation to the Throat Plate.
•Tighten the Set Screw.
•Check the upper edge of the Knife to see that it hasn’t shifted.
•Return the Presser Foot to the sewing position.
•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.
, NOT
DURING YOUR
.
1999 BERNINA of America
page 17
WISH LIST
Lets Start with the Basics
•Carrying Case
•Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook and Supplement I
•Serger Cone Thread
color________
color________
color________
color________
•Needles size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
•Quick Needle Threader
•Seam sealant
•Fabric Marking Pen
•Rotary Cutter
•Wavy Cutting blade
•BERNINA 14” ruler
•BERNINA Cutting Mat
•Fabric Glue Stick
•Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
•Point Well Taken
by Garbers and O'Brien
•Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
•1” Wide Cosmetic Brush
1999 BERNINA of America
page 18
SECTION B – 4-THREAD TECHNIQUES
G
ENERAL CONSTRUCTION SEAMING
• Use a 4-thread Overlock stitch for most fabrics
The Right Needle stitching helps to prevent fabric rolling within
the serger stitch.
• Accurate seaming
Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide when working with standard patterns
requiring a 5/8” seam allowance – Instruction Manual pg.____
Adjust the Guide from the Left Needle.
Use a 6” Ruler/Gauge to measure.
• Secure seam ends if you will not be stitching across them again.
• Adjust Presser Foot Pressure for very thick or thin fabrics –Instruction
Manual pg.____
S
ERGING KNITS
• Use Ballpoint or Stretch Needles to prevent damage to the fabric.
• Woolly Nylon in the Loopers adds to the stretch of the serger stitch.
• Stitch Selection Panel
Position “B” automatically adjusts tensions for Woolly Nylon.
• Adjust Stitch Length to 3 for most seam applications.
• To prevent fabric stretching during sewing
Differential Feed –Instruction Manual pg.____
Presser Foot Pressure –Instruction Manual pg.____
Built-In Tape Guide -–Instruction Manual pg.____
S
ERGING WOVENS
• Use Universal, Sharp or Microtex Needles.
• Match the serger cone thread to the fabric’s fiber content and co lor.
• Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 for medium to heavy fabrics.
• Adjust Stitch Length to 2 for lightweight fabrics.
• Whenever possible work with opposing seams (one seam allowance pressed
to the left and one seam allowance pressed to the right) as you join
seamed pieces together.
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page1
O
PTIONAL PRESSER FEET
The Elasticator Foot
For attaching elastic from 5-12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.
Adjust Presser Foot Pressure to “H” –Instruction Manual pg.____
Adjust Stitch Length to 4.
– Instruction Manual for Elasticator
Gathering Attachment
What affects gathering?
Type and weight of fabric
Differential Feed–Instruction Manual pg.____
Stitch Length
Needle Tension–Instruction Manual pg.____
Gathering to a piece of fabric
Use the Gathering Attachment with other Presser Feet.
– Instruction Sheet for Gathering Attachment
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page2
4-THREAD OVERLOCK SEAM
FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual
pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___
Serger Library – Simply Serging
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide.
•Using a 6” ruler/gauge, adjust the Right Hand Seam Guide for a 5/8” seam.
Measure the 5/8” seam from the Left Needle.
•Fold the fabric in half to 2½” X 6”.
•With the fold of the fabric against the Right Hand Seam Guide, serge the seam,
cutting off exactly 3/8” as you serge.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page3
SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
3” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric) X
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual
P
RESSURE FOOT PRESSURE
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
pg.___
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
•With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on
the fabric.
•Without removing the fabric from under the Presser Foot, notice the “ripple”
effect where the fabric has stretched.
•Locate the Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Lever on the left end of the serger.
•Reduce the Presser Foot Pressure to “L” (low pressure).
•Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.
•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and observe the decreased
“rippling”.
•Return the Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Lever to “N” for normal.
•Trim and mount the sample
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page4
SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
3” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric) X
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual pg.___
D
IFFERENTIAL FEED
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
•With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on
the fabric.
•Without removing the fabric from under the Presser Foot, notice the “ripple”
effect where the fabric has stretched.
•Locate the Differential Feed Dial on the right end of the serger.
•Adjust the Dial to 1.5.
•Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.
•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and observe the decreased
“rippling”.
•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” for normal.
•Trim and mount the sample.
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page5
SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
B
UILT-IN TAPE GUIDE
FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
2” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
8” of ¼” wide Twill Tape or Ribbon
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging
Feet-ures Unit
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” on the Stitch
Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Locate the Built-In Tape Guide on the Presser Foot.
•Using the small screwdriver from the accessories in the
Looper Cover, loosen the Fixing Screw and slide the Tape
Guide all the way to the left. Snug the screw.
•Touch the Needle Stop Button on the front of the
machine (left) to raise the Needles to their highest
position. (The Looper Cover must be closed).
•Raise the Presser Foot and using your right hand, push
the Toe of the Swing-Out Presser Foot to the left.
•Slip the Twill Tape (Ribbon) into the slot on the Presser
Foot.
•Return the Swing Out Presser Foot to the right (normal
sewing position).
•Lower the Presser Foot and press the Needle Stop
Button to lower the Needles into the Twill Tape (Ribbon).
•Loosen the Fixing Screw and adjust the Tape Guide to the width of the Twill Tape
(Ribbon.). Retighten the screw.
•Seam the jersey together along the 6” side, catching the Twill Tape (Ribbon) as you
serge.•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and examine the seam. It will
not stretch. The Twill Tape (Ribbon) has stabilized the seam.
•Trim and mount the sample.
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1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page6
ATTACHING RIBBING
Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon in both Loopers.
•Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece.
•Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together)to 1¾” X 6”.
•Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right side of the fleece.
•Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the fleece neckline.
•You may find it easiest to serge for about 2’’ and stop. Touch the Needle Stop Button
to lower the Needles into the fabric, reposition the fabric and ribbing, and then
continue serging for another 2”. Repeat the Needle Stop, repositioning, and serging to
the end of the fabric.
•Trim and mount the sample.
FABRIC: Sweatshirt fleece 4” X 6”
Ribbing 2½” (length) X 6” (width)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
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1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page7
SERGER PIECING
S
IMPLE
9 P
ATCH BLOCK
FABRIC: 3 strips of medium weight cotton fabric cut 1¾” X 4”
3 strip of contrasting medium weight cotton cut 1¾” X 4”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement
Serger Library – Simply Serging
Feet-ures Unit
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and adjust for a ¼” seam.
•There will be two (2) strip sets sewn, each with three (3) strips of fabric.
Strip set 1 is light, dark, and light and strip set 2 is dark, light, and dark.
•With right sides together and the edge of the fabrics butted up against the
Right Hand Seam Guide, serge the fabric strips together into strip sets.
•Press the seam allowances toward the dark fabric strips.
•Using a Rotary Cutter, Mat and Ruler, cut the strip sets into 1¾” block sets.
Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from the
dark/light/dark strip set. Discard the excess fabric.
•Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.
The seam allowances wi ll be opposing (flipped to “nest” into each other ).
•Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.
•Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips.
•Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the next page.
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1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page8
1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page9
QUILT-AS-YOU-GO
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement
Serger Library – Simply Serging
•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.
•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.
•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and adjust for a ¼” seam.
•Optional: Increase the Presser Foot Pressure to “H” for thick fabrics.
•Create a quilt sandwich, layering the 4” fabrics as follows: 2 muslin (right sides
together), one layer of batting, 2 layers of printed fabric (right sides
together) and a layer of batting on top.
•Raise the Presser Foot and position the fabrics under the Presser Foot with the
right edges of the fabric and batting butted against the Right Hand Seam Guide.
•Lower the Presser Foot and touch the Needle Stop Button on the front (left)
of the serger to lower the Needles into the fabric.
•Serge the 6 layers together, stopping as necessary to keep the right
edges of the fabrics even. (Hint: Use the Needle Stop Button to lower the
Needles and hold the fabrics in place while you align the right edges.)
•Open the layers (1 muslin, 1 quilt top, 1 batting) to the right and left of the
serged seam and press flat.
•To serge the third section into place, layer the remaining 4” fabrics as follows:
muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right sides together;
batting on top.
•Serge through all 6 layers.
•Open the last 3 layers to the right side and press.
•Add the last section to the top edge of the 3 paneled quilt. Layer the 5½”
fabrics as follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right
sides together; batting on top.
FABRIC: 4 pieces of contrasting print cotton fabric
cut 3 pieces 2” X 4” ; cut 1 piece 2” X 5 ½”
4 pieces of muslin
3 cut 2” X 4” ; 1 cut 2” X 5 ½”
4 pieces of cotton batting
3 cut 2” X 4”; 1 cut 2” X 5 ½”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard
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1999 BERNINA Of America
Section B - page10
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