Bernina dcet 2500 User Manual

Mastering the

BERNINA

BERNINA

BERNINABERNINA





2500 SERIES

OWNER’S GUIDECLASS

WORKBOOK

SECTION A

LETS START WITH THE BASICS

 1999 BERNINA of America

SECTION A – LETS START WITH THE BASICS

M

ACHINE SET UP

• Identifying the Serger Parts – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Instruction Manual pg.____

• Assembling the Thread Stand – Instruction Manual pg.___

• The Waste Collector

• Power Switch – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Light Switch– Instruction Manual pg.___

• The Looper Cover – Instruction Manual pg.___

Loopers – what are they? – Instruction Manual pg.___
Tool Storage
Safety Feature – machine won’t sew when the Cover is open

• Swing Out Presser Foot – Instruction Manual pg.___
For easier threading
For easier removal and insertion of Needles
Safety feature – the machine won’t sew
Use the Needle Stop Button to raise the Needles
Raise the Presser Foot
Swing the Presser Foot to the left

• Free Arm Cover – Instruction Manual pg.___
For serging tubular projects
Slides off to engage free arm

T

HREADS

• Types to use

• The importance of quality threads

N

EEDLES

• Always start with a new Needle

• Match the Needle to the fabric and thread – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Change the Needle often

• Using the Needle Inserter

• Loosening/re-tightening Needle screws

S

TITCH SELECTION DIAL

• Selecting stitches

• Understanding the code – Instruction Manual pg.___

– Instruction Manual pg.___

– Instruction Manual pg.___

– S

1999 BERNINA of America

TITCH SELECTION PANEL

page 2

N

EEDLE STOP BUTTON

• Ne edle Up - Overlock sewing

• Needle Down – Cover/Chain Stitch sewing

– Instruction Manual pg.___

C

ONVERSION TO OVERLOCK SEWING

• Conver sion Chart – Instruction Manual pg.___

• The Converter Arm

Use the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles

• Removing the Cover/Chain Stitch Extension Plate – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Installing the Knife Guard – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Raising/Lowering the Knife Arm– Instruction Manual pg.___

• Rotating the Upper Knife into Cutting Position– Instruction Manual pg.___

T

HREADING FOR OVERLOCK SERGING

• Cone Holders and Spool Caps – Instruction Manual pg.___

Cone Holders used for large cones of serger thread

Turn the Cone Holders upside down for the larger based cone threads.

Spool Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools

• Raise the Presser Foot when threading

Releases the pressure on the tension disks

• The Threading Path – Instruction Manual pg.___

Use the road map inside the Looper Cover as a quick reference guide.

• Threading the First Thread Guide on All Threads – Instruction Manual pg.___

Wrap the thread from left to right to lock the thread into the guide.

• Threading Order

First – Upper Looper

This thread lies against the body of the serger.
Second – Lower Looper
Third – Center Needle
Fourth – Left Needle

• Thread the Upper Looper – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Thread the Lower Looper – Instruction Manual pg.___

The Lower Looper Auto Threader – Instruction Manual pg.___

Rotate the Handwheel to bring the Looper to the right before engaging

the Looper Threader

• Thread the Center Needle -– Instruction Manual pg._ __

• The Needle Clamp Guide – Instruction Manual pg.___

• Optional - Using the Quick Needle Threader from a BERNINA sewing machine.

•

Thread the Left Needle – Instruction Manual pg.___

1999 BERNINA of America

page 3

T

EST SEWING

– Instruction Manual pg.___

• Lift the Toe to place the fabric under the Presser Foot

• Lift the Presser Foot for thick fabric or when accurate fabric placement

is needed.

• Chain off the fabric.

• Use the built in Thread Cutter to cut the Thread Chain.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 4

TENSION THEORY

A BALANCED 4-THREAD STITCH

Instruction Manual pg.___

Serger Library -

Tips and Tricks

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch Display panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using thread colors to match

the Color-Coded Threading Path on the serger.

•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.

•To begin stitching, lift the front of the Presser Foot with your right thumb

and slide the fabric under the Presser Foot. Release the tip of the Presser
Foot and begin serging.

•Serge to the end of the fabric.

•Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3”- 4” Thread Chain.

•Locate the Thread Cutter on the left side of the serger and cut the thread

chain (from right to left).

•Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch
graphic on page__ of the Instruction Manual.

•Read the information under Fine Tuning on page__ of the Instruction Manual
for information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch
irregularities.

•Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread

(yellow,green,blue,red)

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

1999 BERNINA of America

page 5

ADJUSTING TENSIONS

FABRIC: 6 pieces of firm woven fabric 3” X 4”
1 piece of light weight woven cotton 3” X 4”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread

(yellow,green,blue,red)

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual pg.____
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

OWER LOOPER

L

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch
Display panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using thread
colors to match the Color-Coded Threading Path on the serger.

•Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” X 4” and set aside.

•Locate the Fine Tuning levers on the front of the serger. From

left to right these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle,
the Center Needle, the Upper Looper or Right Needle, and
the Lower Looper.

•Adjust the Lower Looper Fine Tuning Lever to increase (up)
the tension on the Looper thread.

•Place the first piece of folded fabric under the Presser Foot

with the fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric,
cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the
edge of the fabric. The Upper Looper thread is pulled tightly
to the back of the stitch. The Left Needle thread may be
pulled to the back of the stitch.

• Trim, label, and mount the sample.

• Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return

tensions to normal.

• Adjust the Lower Looper Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down)
the tension on the Looper thread.

• Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the

edge of the fabric. The Lower Looper thread is visible on the
face of the fabric. The Looper threads are very loose.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 6

PPER LOOPER

U

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.

•Adjust the Upper Looper Fine Tuning Lever to increase (up) the tension on the

Looper thread.

•Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The

Lower Looper thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch.

•Label, trim, and mount the sample.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.

•Adjust the Upper Looper Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down) the tension on the

Looper thread.

•Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The Looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The

Upper Looper thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The Looper threads are
very loose.

•Label, trim, and mount the sample.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 7

ENTER NEEDLE

C

•Adjust the Center Needle Fine Tuning Lever to decrease
(down) the tension on the Needle thread.

•Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The Needle thread forms a large loop on

the back of the fabric.

•Label, trim, and mount the sample.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to

return tensions to normal.

L

EFT NEEDLE

•Adjust the Left Needle Fine Tuning Lever to decrease (down)
the tension on the Needle thread.

•Serge the sixth piece of fabric cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The Needle thread forms a large loop on

the back of the fabric.

•Label, trim, and mount the sample.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to

return tensions to normal.

Both Needles

•Adjust both the Left and Center Needle Fine Tuning
Levers to increase (up) the tension on the Needle threads.

•Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” X 4”.

•Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

•Examine the sample. The stitch is puckering the fabric.

•Label, trim, and mount the sample.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to

return tensions to normal.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 8

STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT

Instruction Manual pg.___

•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.

•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the

folded edge.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to select “A” on the Stitch Display panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Locate the Stitch Length Dial on the right end of the machine.

•Turn the Stitch Length Dial to 4.

•Serge to the first mark along the folded edge of the fabric, trimming the

folded edge as you serge.

•Turn the Stitch Length Dial, adjusting the Stitch Length to 3 and serge to
the second mark.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2 and serge to the third mark.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 1 and serge to the end of the fabric.

•Mark the Stitch Length settings on the sample.

•Compare the Stitch Length sample to the Balanced 4-thread sample to see how

Stitch Length affects the balance of the Overlock stitch.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

1999 BERNINA of America

page 9

CUTTING WIDTH ADJU STM E N TS

Instruction Manual

•Fold the fabric in half to 3” X 6”.

pg,___

FABRIC: Firm fabric 6” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

•Divide and mark the fabric into 3 equal sections along the folded edge.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to sele ct “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Turn the Stitch Length Dial to 2.5 (normal).

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Locate the Cutting Width adjustment Dial.

•Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 3.

•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.

•Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the Knife edge is on the

mark.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 and serge to the second mark.

•Adjust the Cutting Width to 1 and serge to the end of the fabric.

•Mark the Cutting Width settings on the sample.

•Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).

•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.

•Compare the Cutting Width sample to the Balanced 4-thread sample to see how

Cutting Width affects the balance of the Overlock stitch.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 10

DIFFERENTIAL FEED

FABRICS THAT STRETC H

Instruction Manual

FABRIC: 3 pieces ribbing each cut

2”cut the length of the fabric

5” cut the width of the fabric
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___

•

Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Locate the Differential Feed Dial on the right end of the machine and adjust to

“N”(normal).

•Serge two of the ribbing pieces together along the 5” side.

•Turn the Differential Feed Dial to 2.

•Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other side of the piece.

•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” (normal).

•Compare the seams to see how Differential Feed settings reduce stretching.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 11

DIFFERENTIAL FEED

FABRICS THAT PUCKER

FABRIC: Batiste 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual pg.____
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.____
Serger Library – Construction Basics

•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along the 6” edge.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Serge to the mark.

•Adjust the Differential Feed Dial to 0.7.

•Serge to the end of the fabric.

•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” (normal).

•Compare the two stitchings to see how the Differential Feed settings can

reduce fabric puckering.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 12

DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Gathering and Easing

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 12”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook

•Using a Fabric Marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the 12” side.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Turn the Differential Feed Dial to 2.

•Serge to the first mark.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 4 and serge to the second mark.

•Locate the Fine Tuning Levers for the left and Center Needles.

• Move the Fine Tuning Levers up to increase the Needle tensions.

•Serge to the end of the fabric.

•Return the Differential Feed to “N” (normal).

•Return the Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” and then to “A” to return tensions to normal.

•Mark the sample: Differential Feed 2; Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4;

Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4 & Increased Needle tension.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA of America

pg.___

page 13

SECURING THE SEAM

Instruction Manual pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide
Workbook
Serger Library

Tips and Tricks

Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlo c k stitch.

Note – If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or pinking shears to trim the samples, do all

trimming before beginning to sew this sample.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2” X “6” and place the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric.

•Locate the Needle Stop Button on the front of the serger (left side).

•Press the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles into the fabric.

•Raise the Presser Foot and with your left hand gently pull the Thread Chain around the Needles

to the Knife.

•Lower the Pres ser Foot and continue serging (cutting off t he excess Thr ead Chain) un til you are
one (1) stitch off the end of the f abric.

•Locate the Rolled Hem Selection Lever on the right side of the cloth plate.

•Pull the Rolled Hem Selection Lever towards you, releasing the Thread Chain from the stitch

finger.

•Raise the Presser Foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the Lower Looper side of the
previously ser ged sea m wi l l be over stitc h ed .

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot so t hat the first stitch will enter the fabric wh en you
begin stitching.

•Slide the Rolled Hem Selection Lever towards the body of the serger.

•Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric so as not to cut

the previous stitc hing. Option - Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•Raise the Toe of the Presser Foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.

•Serge off the ed ge of the fabric.

•If the Knife is up, rotate the Upper Knife down into the Cutting Po sition.

•Mount the sample.

pg.___

FABRIC: M edium w e i g h t c o t t o n 4 ” X 6 ”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

1999 BERNINA of America

page 14

Cut out

SERGING A TUBULAR PROJECT

Instruction Manual

pg.___

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.

•Press the seam to one side. (The Upper Looper thread is the right side of

the seam.)

•On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” X ¼” section of fabric.

•Locate and remove the Free-Arm/Cloth Plate Cover (left side of the serger).

•Raise the Presser Foot.

•Position the tube of fabric around the free-arm and under the Presser Foot

with the Knife in the center of the cutout.

•Lower the Presser Foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”. Stop
serging when the Knife enters the cutout.

•Rotate the Knife up.

•Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous stitching by 1”.

•Raise the Presser Foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.

•Lower the Presser Foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.

•Return the Knife to the normal Cutting Position.

•Return the Free-Arm/Cloth Plate Cover to the machine.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Firm fabric 3” X 12”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

1999 BERNINA of America

page 15

The Care and Feeding of Your BERNINA Serger

Cleaning and Oiling

Instruction Manual

•Clip all threads at the Thread Guide Support.

•Lift the Presser Foot to release (open) the Thread Tension Disks.

•Gently pull the threads from the serger. Always remove the threads in the

direction of sewing. If you encounter any resistance, stop and rotate the
Handwheel slightly to release the threads from around the Loopers.

•Open the Looper Cover.

•Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•Using a Vacuum Cleaner Adapter or a 1” Cosmetic Brush, remove all lint and

fluff from the Looper, Knife and Feed Dog areas of the machine.

•Following the Oiling Guide inside the Looper Cover, place a drop of oil on each
of the two Oiling Points.

•Remove old Needles and replace them with new Needles.

•Rotate the Upper Knife down into the Cutting Position.

Replacing the Knifes

Instruction Manual pg.___

pg.___

! Serger Knives cut fabric as it is stitched. Just as shears can become dull

through repeated use, serger Knives are also dulled as they cut fabric.

! If the Knives begin to “chew” instead of cut, consider replacing the Lower

Knife.

! If you sew over pins and cut them or run into them with the serger Knives,

both Knives should be replaced.

! Your Authorized BERNINATechnician will need to replace the Upper Knife

for you.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 16

O REPLACE THE LOWER KNIFE

T

:

O THIS ONLY WHEN NECESSARY

D

EW OWNER’S CLASSES

N

•Turn the serger off and unplug the Power Cord from the machine.

•Rotate the Handwheel until the Needles are in their highest position.

•Raise the Presser Foot.

•Swing the Presser Foot to the left.

•Open the Looper Cover.

•Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•With the tip of your finger, assess the level of the Lower Knife in relation to the

Throat Plate.

•Locate the Set Screw and Clamp holding the Lower Knife in place.

• Loosen the Set Screw and Clamp.

•Rotate the Clamp out of the way.

•Remove the damaged/dulled Lower Knife Blade.

•Insert a new Lower Knife Blade into the Groove.

•Rotate the Clamp into position.

•Snug the screw to hold the Knife in place.

•With the tip of your finger, access the level of the Lower Knife in relation to

the Throat Plate. Slide the Lower Knife up/down until the upper edge of the
Knife is correctly positioned in relation to the Throat Plate.

•Tighten the Set Screw.

•Check the upper edge of the Knife to see that it hasn’t shifted.

•Return the Presser Foot to the sewing position.

•Rotate the Upper Knife down into Cutting Position.

, NOT

DURING YOUR

.

1999 BERNINA of America

page 17

WISH LIST

Lets Start with the Basics

•Carrying Case

•Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook and Supplement I

•Serger Cone Thread

color________
color________
color________
color________

•Needles size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____

•Quick Needle Threader

•Seam sealant

•Fabric Marking Pen

•Rotary Cutter

•Wavy Cutting blade

•BERNINA 14” ruler

•BERNINA Cutting Mat

•Fabric Glue Stick

•Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles

•Point Well Taken

by Garbers and O'Brien

•Vacuum Cleaner Attachment

•1” Wide Cosmetic Brush

1999 BERNINA of America

page 18

SECTION B – 4-THREAD TECHNIQUES

G

ENERAL CONSTRUCTION SEAMING

• Use a 4-thread Overlock stitch for most fabrics
The Right Needle stitching helps to prevent fabric rolling within

the serger stitch.

• Accurate seaming

Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide when working with standard patterns

requiring a 5/8” seam allowance – Instruction Manual pg.____
Adjust the Guide from the Left Needle.
Use a 6” Ruler/Gauge to measure.

• Secure seam ends if you will not be stitching across them again.

• Adjust Presser Foot Pressure for very thick or thin fabrics –Instruction

Manual pg.____

S

ERGING KNITS

• Use Ballpoint or Stretch Needles to prevent damage to the fabric.

• Woolly Nylon in the Loopers adds to the stretch of the serger stitch.

• Stitch Selection Panel

Position “B” automatically adjusts tensions for Woolly Nylon.

• Adjust Stitch Length to 3 for most seam applications.

• To prevent fabric stretching during sewing

Differential Feed –Instruction Manual pg.____
Presser Foot Pressure –Instruction Manual pg.____
Built-In Tape Guide -–Instruction Manual pg.____

S

ERGING WOVENS

• Use Universal, Sharp or Microtex Needles.

• Match the serger cone thread to the fabric’s fiber content and co lor.

• Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 for medium to heavy fabrics.

• Adjust Stitch Length to 2 for lightweight fabrics.

• Whenever possible work with opposing seams (one seam allowance pressed

to the left and one seam allowance pressed to the right) as you join
seamed pieces together.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page1

O

PTIONAL PRESSER FEET

The Elasticator Foot

For attaching elastic from 5-12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.
Adjust Presser Foot Pressure to “H” –Instruction Manual pg.____
Adjust Stitch Length to 4.

– Instruction Manual for Elasticator

Gathering Attachment

What affects gathering?

Type and weight of fabric
Differential Feed–Instruction Manual pg.____
Stitch Length
Needle Tension–Instruction Manual pg.____
Gathering to a piece of fabric

Use the Gathering Attachment with other Presser Feet.

– Instruction Sheet for Gathering Attachment

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page2

4-THREAD OVERLOCK SEAM

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual

pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___
Serger Library – Simply Serging

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide.

•Using a 6” ruler/gauge, adjust the Right Hand Seam Guide for a 5/8” seam.

Measure the 5/8” seam from the Left Needle.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2½” X 6”.

•With the fold of the fabric against the Right Hand Seam Guide, serge the seam,

cutting off exactly 3/8” as you serge.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page3

SEAMING KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
3” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric) X
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual

P

RESSURE FOOT PRESSURE

2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)

pg.___

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.

•With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on

the fabric.

•Without removing the fabric from under the Presser Foot, notice the “ripple”

effect where the fabric has stretched.

•Locate the Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Lever on the left end of the serger.

•Reduce the Presser Foot Pressure to “L” (low pressure).

•Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.

•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and observe the decreased

“rippling”.

•Return the Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Lever to “N” for normal.

•Trim and mount the sample

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page4

SEAMING KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
3” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric) X
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual pg.___

D

IFFERENTIAL FEED

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg.___

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.

•With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on

the fabric.

•Without removing the fabric from under the Presser Foot, notice the “ripple”

effect where the fabric has stretched.

•Locate the Differential Feed Dial on the right end of the serger.

•Adjust the Dial to 1.5.

•Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.

•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and observe the decreased

“rippling”.

•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” for normal.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page5

SEAMING KNIT FABRICS

B

UILT-IN TAPE GUIDE

FABRIC: 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey
2” (cut the stretch (across) the fabric
6” (cut the length of the fabric)
8” of ¼” wide Twill Tape or Ribbon
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging
Feet-ures Unit

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” on the Stitch

Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Locate the Built-In Tape Guide on the Presser Foot.

•Using the small screwdriver from the accessories in the

Looper Cover, loosen the Fixing Screw and slide the Tape
Guide all the way to the left. Snug the screw.

•Touch the Needle Stop Button on the front of the

machine (left) to raise the Needles to their highest
position. (The Looper Cover must be closed).

•Raise the Presser Foot and using your right hand, push

the Toe of the Swing-Out Presser Foot to the left.

•Slip the Twill Tape (Ribbon) into the slot on the Presser

Foot.

•Return the Swing Out Presser Foot to the right (normal

sewing position).

•Lower the Presser Foot and press the Needle Stop

Button to lower the Needles into the Twill Tape (Ribbon).

•Loosen the Fixing Screw and adjust the Tape Guide to the width of the Twill Tape

(Ribbon.). Retighten the screw.

•Seam the jersey together along the 6” side, catching the Twill Tape (Ribbon) as you

serge.•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and examine the seam. It will
not stretch. The Twill Tape (Ribbon) has stabilized the seam.

•Trim and mount the sample.

pg.___

pg.___

____pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page6

ATTACHING RIBBING

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon in both Loopers.

•Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece.

•Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together)to 1¾” X 6”.

•Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right side of the fleece.

•Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the fleece neckline.

•You may find it easiest to serge for about 2’’ and stop. Touch the Needle Stop Button

to lower the Needles into the fabric, reposition the fabric and ribbing, and then
continue serging for another 2”. Repeat the Needle Stop, repositioning, and serging to
the end of the fabric.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Sweatshirt fleece 4” X 6”
Ribbing 2½” (length) X 6” (width)
NEEDLES: 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page7

SERGER PIECING

S

IMPLE

9 P

ATCH BLOCK

FABRIC: 3 strips of medium weight cotton fabric cut 1¾” X 4”
3 strip of contrasting medium weight cotton cut 1¾” X 4”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement
Serger Library – Simply Serging
Feet-ures Unit

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and adjust for a ¼” seam.

•There will be two (2) strip sets sewn, each with three (3) strips of fabric.

Strip set 1 is light, dark, and light and strip set 2 is dark, light, and dark.

•With right sides together and the edge of the fabrics butted up against the

Right Hand Seam Guide, serge the fabric strips together into strip sets.

•Press the seam allowances toward the dark fabric strips.

•Using a Rotary Cutter, Mat and Ruler, cut the strip sets into 1¾” block sets.

Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from the
dark/light/dark strip set. Discard the excess fabric.

•Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.

The seam allowances wi ll be opposing (flipped to “nest” into each other ).

•Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.

•Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips.

•Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the next page.

____pg.________

#1 pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page8

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page9

QUILT-AS-YOU-GO

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement
Serger Library – Simply Serging

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and adjust for a ¼” seam.

•Optional: Increase the Presser Foot Pressure to “H” for thick fabrics.

•Create a quilt sandwich, layering the 4” fabrics as follows: 2 muslin (right sides

together), one layer of batting, 2 layers of printed fabric (right sides
together) and a layer of batting on top.

•Raise the Presser Foot and position the fabrics under the Presser Foot with the

right edges of the fabric and batting butted against the Right Hand Seam Guide.

•Lower the Presser Foot and touch the Needle Stop Button on the front (left)

of the serger to lower the Needles into the fabric.

•Serge the 6 layers together, stopping as necessary to keep the right

edges of the fabrics even. (Hint: Use the Needle Stop Button to lower the
Needles and hold the fabrics in place while you align the right edges.)

•Open the layers (1 muslin, 1 quilt top, 1 batting) to the right and left of the

serged seam and press flat.

•To serge the third section into place, layer the remaining 4” fabrics as follows:

muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right sides together;
batting on top.

•Serge through all 6 layers.

•Open the last 3 layers to the right side and press.

•Add the last section to the top edge of the 3 paneled quilt. Layer the 5½”

fabrics as follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right
sides together; batting on top.

FABRIC: 4 pieces of contrasting print cotton fabric

cut 3 pieces 2” X 4” ; cut 1 piece 2” X 5 ½”

4 pieces of muslin

3 cut 2” X 4” ; 1 cut 2” X 5 ½”

4 pieces of cotton batting

3 cut 2” X 4”; 1 cut 2” X 5 ½”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page10

•Serge, open the layers to the top of the square, and press.

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page11

THE ELASTICATOR

Feet-ures Unit
Instruction Manual for Elasticator
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 4.

•Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure lever to “H” to increase the pressure.

•Remove the Presser Foot – Instruction Manual page___.

•Following the directions in the Instruction Manual for Elasticator, attach the

Presser Foot.

•Locate and raise the Roller Guide in the front of the Presser Foot.

•Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles. (This lowers the Feed Dog.)

•Raise the Presser Foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under the

Presser Foot until it touches the Needles.

•Lower the Presser Foot and serge a few stitches to catch and straighten the
elastic along the right edge of the slot. Press the Needle Stop Button to lower
the Needles.

•Lower the Roller Guide.

•Using the small screwdriver, adjust the Guide Plate on the Presser Foot to the

width of the elastic.

•Locate the Pressure Adjustment Set Screw (on the top of the Roller Guide) and
turn the screw counterclockwise to completely loosen the pressure on the roller.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and begin serging.

•Slowly tighten the Pressure Adjustment Set Screw to increase the pressure on

the roller and stretch the elastic. Note – do not over tighten the screw.
Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric feeding.

•Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the Presser Foot stretch the elastic for
you.

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 12”
12” of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
NEEDLES: 80/12 Ballpoint or 11/75 Stretch
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (Loopers)
PRESSER FOOT: Elasticator

____pg.___

pg.___

Additions

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page12

•Trim and mount the sample.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page13

THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT

G

ATHERING FABRIC

Feet-ures Unit

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 15”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

____pg.___
Instruction Sheet for the Gathering Attachment
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement 1
Serger Library – Simply Serging

Specialty Stitches

Additions

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Raise the Upper Knife and adjust the Cutting Width to 3.

•Raise the Presser Foot and, with the Needles in their highest position, swing

the Presser Foot to the left.

•Locate and loosen the silver Fixing Screw in front of the Rolled Hem Stitch

Selection Lever.

•Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the Fixing Screw and Metal Post directly

behind the Fixing screw. (Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the
screw and then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post.) Tighten
the Fixing Screw.

•Return Cutting Width to 2 (normal) and lower the Upper Knife into Cutting

Position.

•Locate and adjust the Differential Feed Dial (right end of the machine) to 2.

•Return the Presser Foot to normal sewing position.

•Using a Fabric Marker, divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along a 15” edge.

•Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles and lower the Feed Dog.

•Raise the Presser Foot and insert the fabric under the Gathering Attachment

and up to the Needles. The fabric is lying against the stitch plate.

•Lower the Presser Foot and serge to the first mark.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 4 and serge to the second mark.

•Increase tension on both Need les by moving the Tension Fine Tuning Levers up.

•Serge to the end of the fabric.

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page14

•Mark the sample: with Differential Feed; with Differential Feed & SL4;
with Differential Feed, SL4 & tighten Needle Tensions.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Return all settings to normal.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page15

THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT

G

ATHERING FABRIC TO FABRIC

Feet-ures Unit

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 14”
Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 8”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal, Sharp or Microtex
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

___pg.___
Instruction Sheet for the Gathering Attachment
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement 1
Serger Library – Simply Serging

Specialty Stitches

Additions

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Raise the Upper Knife and adjust the Cutting Width to 3.

•Raise the Presser Foot and, with the Needles in their highest position, swing the

Presser Foot to the left.

•Locate and loosen the silver Fixing Screw in front of the Rolled Hem Stitch

Selection Lever.

•Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the Fixing Screw and Metal Post directly

next to the Fixing screw. (Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the
screw and then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post.) Tighten
the Fixing Screw.

•Return Cutting Width to 2 (normal) and lower the Upper Knife into Cutting

Position.

•Locate and adjust the Differential Feed Dial (right end of the machine) to 2.

•Return the Presser Foot to normal sewing position.

•Raise the Presser Foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side up) under

the Gathering Attachment. The fabric is lying next to the stitch plate. Sew
several stitches until the fabric is under the Needles.

•Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles and lower the Feed Dog.

•Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of the Gathering

Attachment and under the Presser Foot with the end of the 8” strip touching
the Needles.

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page16

•Serge the two strips together, gathering the lower strip as you sew.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Return all settings to normal.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page17

THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT

W

ITH THE ELASTICATOR PRESSER FOOT

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 18”
12” of ½” wide nylon or cotton braid elastic
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Elasticator

Feet-ures Unit
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement 1
Serger Library – Additions

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A’ on the Stitch Selection Panel.

•Thread the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch.

•Raise the Upper Knife and adjust the Cutting Width to 3.

•Raise the Presser Foot and, with the Needles in their highest position, swing

the Presser Foot to the left.

•Locate and loosen the Silver Fixing Screw in front of the Rolled Hem Stitch

Selection Lever.

•Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the Fixing Screw and Metal Post directly

behind the Fixing screw. (Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the
screw and then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post.) Tighten
the Fixing Screw.

•Return Cutting Width to 2 (normal) and lower the Upper Knife into cutting

position.

•Locate and adjust the Differential Feed Dial (right end of the machine) to 2.

•Return the Presser Foot to normal sewing position.

•Raise the Presser Foot and insert the 18” strip of fabric under the Gathering

Attachment. The fabric is lying against the stitch plate. Sew several stitches
until the fabric is under the Needles.

Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles and lower the Feed Dog.

•Attach the Elasticator foot.

•Turn the Pressure Adjustment Screw counterclockwise to release all pressure on

the Roller Guide.

•Raise the Roller Guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the

Presser Foot.

•Lower the Presser Foot and take a few stitches into the elastic.

____pg.___

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page18

•Slowly turn the Pressure Adjustment Screw clockwise to increase the pressure

on the Roller Guide and stretch the elastic. Note – do not over tighten the
screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric feeding.

•Serge the elastic to the fabric gathering the fabric as you serge.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Return all settings to normal.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page19

WISH LIST

4-THREAD TECHNIQUES

•Bernette Advanced Workb oo k

•Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I

•Serger Library

•Feet-ures

•Woolly Nylon thread

color________
color________

•Needles –Ballpoint size____
size____

Stretch size____

size____

•Elasticator

•Gathering Attachment

• ½” Nylon Elastic

• ½” Cotton Braid Elastic

•Twill Tape

•Narrow Ribbon

•BERNINA Ironing System

•Pro Glide Plus Iron

•6” Ruler/Gauge

•Rotary Cutter

•Rotary Cutter Guide Arm

•BERNINA Cutting Mat

•BERNINA 14” Ruler

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section B - page20

SECTION C – 3-THREAD TECHNIQUES

W

• Left Needle only

• Used for:

C

ENTER NEEDLE OVERLOCK ST ITCH

• Used for:

N

ARROW OVERLOCK ST ITCH

• Center Needle

• Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem

• Some minor tension adjustments may need to be made to the Loopers

• Used for:

3-T

IDE

Seaming stretchy knit fabrics
Finishing woven edges
Serging outside corners

Seaming fine fabrics
Finishing woven edges on linen and wool
Inside corners
Turning tubes

Disengages the Stitch Finger.

Seaming batiste and other fine fabrics.
Finishing the edge of fine fabrics.

HREAD OVERLOCK ST ITCH

- Instruction Manual pg._____

- Instruction Manual pg._____

- Instruction Manual pg._____

3-

THREAD FLATLOCKING

• Right Hand Seam Guide
Adjust for fabric guiding.

• Position “D” on the Stitch Display Panel
Automatic Tension Adjustment for Flatlocking.

R

OLLED HEMMING

• The Upper Looper thread is visible.

• Woolly Nylon in the Upper Looper “fills in” like a sewing machine satin stitch.

• Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem disengages the Stitch Finger .

• Position “C” on the Stitch Display Panel

Automatic Tension Adjustment for Rolled Edge

- Instruction Manual pg._____

- Instruction Manual pg._____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 1

O

PTIONAL PRESSER FEET

Blind Stitch Foot

• Strong hem for children’s garments

• Hand Picked or Drapery Hem

Heirloom
Home decor
Hemming woven garments

• Heirloom Serging

Decorative Tucks
Seaming Lace to Lace
Seaming Lace to Fabric

Cording Foot

• Swing-Out Presser Foot for easy “threading” of the Presser Foot

• Nylon fishing line for a Bias Ruffle

• Wire for Wired Edge Fabrics

• Gimp Cord for gathering heavy fabrics

– Instruction Manual for Blind Stitch Attachment

- Instruction Manual for Cording Foot

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 2

3-THREAD OVERLOCK (5mm-7mm)

FABRIC: Medium weight fabric 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Using the Small Screwdriver and Brush/Needle Inserter, remove the Center

Needle.

•Snug the Needle Set Screw after removing the Needle.

•Following the diagrams on page ____ in the Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a 3-thread wide Overlock stitch.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Fold the fabric in half to 2 ½” X 6”.

•Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.

•Trim and mount the sample.

pg._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 3

Use a wide 3-thread Overlock as a

seam finish on woven fabrics.

Wrap the fabric edge with strips of bias cut tricot

or water soluble stabilizer before serging for

added support while stitching.

3-THREAD OVERLOCK(5mm-7mm)

SEAM EDGE FINISH

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Left Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Serge finish one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric.

•Using your BERNINA sewing machine and a standard 5/8” seam allowance, seam

the two pieces of fabric together along the serged edges.

•Press the seam open.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: 2 pieces medium weight wool 2½” X 5”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 4

OUTSIDE CORNER

FABRIC: 2 pieces of firm woven fabric 4” X 5”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook

O

PTION

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Left Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Serge one edge of the fabric, stitching off the end of the fabric.

•Trim the thread tail.

•Continue serging around the square crossing over the previous stitching.

•Use a Seam Sealant on the untrimmed thread tails (or use a Tapestry Needle

to weave the thread tail back through the stitching). When the Seam
Sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.

•Mount the sample on the next page.

O

PTION

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Left Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Before serging, trim away the seam allowance (¼”) for about 2” on each corner.

•Beginning at one trimmed corner, serge (cutting ¼” as you sew) to the end

of the fabric. Take 1 stitch off the end of the fabric.

•Locate the Stitch Selection Lever/Roll Hem on the Stitch Plate and pull

the white lever towards you. This will free the thread from the Stitch Finger.

•Lift the Presser Foot and carefully pivot the fabric 90° clockwise.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal (away from you).

•Place the Needles one stitch into the fabric and lower the Presser Foot.

•Continue serging until you are 1 stitch off the next corner.

•Repeat the turning procedure and continue serging.

•Mount the sample on the next page.

I

II

pg._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 5

Option I

Option II

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 6

3-THREAD SEAM (3mm-5mm)

CENTER NEEDLE

FABRIC: Light weight fabric 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Using the Small Screwdriver and Brush/Needle Inserter, remove the

Left Needle.

•Snug the Needle Set Screw after removing the Needle.

•Insert the Center Needle

•Following the diagrams on page ____ in the Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a 3-thread Center Needle Overlock stitch.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Fold the fabric in half to 2 ½” X 6”.

•Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.

•Trim and mount the sample.

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 7

Use a Center Needle 3-thread Overlock as a

seam finish on light weight woven fabrics.

Wrap the fabric edge with strips of bias cut

tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging

for added support while stitching.

3THREAD SEAM EDGE FINISH (3m-5mm)

CENTER NEEDLE

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Serge finish one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric.

•Using your BERNINA sewing machine and a standard 5/8” seam allowance, seam the

two pieces of fabric together along the serged edges.

•Press the seam open.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: 2 pieces light weight linen 2½ X 5”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 8

INSIDE CORNER

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

O

PTION

•Cut an inside corner into the fabric.

•Snip into the corner ¼” (the width of the stitching).

•Serge until the Knife reaches the end of the cut.

•Touch the Needle Stop to lower the Needle into the fabric.

•Lift the Presser Foot and straighten the corner towards you.

•Lower the Presser Foot and continue serging.

•Trim and mount the sample on the next page.

O

PTION

FABRIC: 2 pieces of firm woven cotton 3” X 4”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg._____

pg.____

I

II

•Rotate the Upper Knife up.

•Cut an inside corner into the fabric.

•Line up the left edge of the cut with the Lower Knife blade. Keep the edge of

the fabric even with the Lower Knife blade as you stitch.

•Serge for a few stitches. Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needle

into the fabric.

•Fold the right side of dthe corner towards you at about a 45°angle.

• Serge 1 stitch into the cut corner. Touch the Needle Stop Button to lower

the Needle into the fabric.

•Lift the Presser Foot.

•Fold the serged edge down and to the left, angling the serged edge about 45°.

Pivot the fabric until the cut raw edge is even with the Lower Knife blade.

•Lower the Presser Foot and continue stitching.

•Use the Thread Cutter to cut the Thread Chain (the Upper Knife is disengaged).

•Return the Upper Knife to Cutting Position.

•Trim and mount the sample on the next page.

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 9

.

Option I

Use this technique on

continuous plackets for

sleeves and back neck

openings.

Option II

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 10

3-THREAD NARROW SEAM

Instruction Manual pg
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Following the diagrams on page ____ in the Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a 3-thread Center Needle Overlock stitch.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.5 (normal).

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lev er/Rolled Hem towards you to dis engage the

Stitch Finger.

•Adjust the Differential Feed Dial between 0.7 and N.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2½” X 6”.

•Serge along the folded edge of the fabric. If necessary slightly tighten the

Looper Tensions (up) and re-stitch the seam.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal (pus h the

lever away from you).

•Return the Differential Feed Dial to “N” (normal).

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Batiste 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

._____

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 11

TURNING TUBES

FABRIC: Tricot 2” X 6”
NEEDLES: 75 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 3 cones of Metrolene serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Feet-ures Unit
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook pg
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using

the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch

Display Panel.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 2.

•Serge a Thread Chain several inches longer than the

fabric.

•Fold the fabric, right sides together) to 1” X 6” encasing

the Thread Chain against the fold.

•With the folded edge aligned with the left edge of the

Presser Foot, serge the tube being careful not to catch
the Thread Chain in the stitching.

•After stitching the tube, gently pull on the Thread Chain

and turn the tube right side out.

•Mount the sample.

____pg.________

.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 12

BLIND STITCH FOOT

B

LIND HEM

FABRIC: Cotton jersey 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Blind Stitch Foot

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Feet-ures Unit

___pg.___

Instruction Manual for Blind Stitch Attachment

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 4

•Attach the Blind Stitch Foot.

•Following the instructions in the Instruction Manual for Blind Stitch Attachment,

fold the fabric for a 1½” blind hem and place the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Adjust the Fabric Guide so that the Needle just catches the fold in the

stitching.

•Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the Fabric Guide.

• Press the hem.

• Trim and mount the sample.

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 13

BLIND STITCH FOOT

H

AND PICKED OR DRAPERY BLIND HEM

Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Feet-ures Unit

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 3.5.

•Attach the Blind Stitch Foot.

•Turn up a double folded 1” hem. Fold the remaining fabric under so that no

fabric extends beyond the upper edge of the hem.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot. The fold of the fabric should rest

against the Fabric Guide.

•Adjust the Fabric Guide so that the Needle just catches the fold in the stitching.

•Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the Fabric Guide.

•Press the hem.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Blind Stitch Foot

pg.___

___pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 14

BLIND STITCH FOOT

Decorative Tucks

FABRIC: Batiste 3½” X 6”
NEEDLES: 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
THREAD: 3 cones of Isacord thread
PRESSER FOOT: Blind Stitch Foot

Feet-ures Unit
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook

Serger Library – Additions

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem towards you.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 1.5.

•Attach the Blind Stitch Foot.

•Move the Fabric Guide just to the left of the Knife Line on the Stitch Plate.

•Stiffen the batiste with Spray Starch or a Fabric Stiffener.

•Mark 3 lines 1” apart the length of the fabric.

•Fold the fabric along a marked line and place the fabric under the Presser Foot

so that the fold is against the Fabric Guide. Serge the tucks.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to the normal sewing position

(away from you).

•Trim and mount the sample.

___pg.___

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 15

BLIND STITCH FOOT

LACE TO LACE

FABRIC: 2 pieces of flat edging lace 6” long
NEEDLES: 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
THREAD: 3 cones of Isacord
PRESSER FOOT: Blind Stitch Foot

Feet-ures Unit
Instruction Manual for the Blind Stitch Attachment
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem towards you.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 1.5.

•Loosen the Center Needle tension slightly.

•Attach the Blind Stitch Foot.

•Move the Fabric Guide just to the right of the Right Needle.

•Stiffen the lace with Spray Starch or a Fabric Stiffener.

•With right sides together place the header of the laces under the Presser

Foot and butted up against the Fabric Guide.

•Serge the laces together.

•Gently pull the lace flat and press.

•Trim and mount the sample.

____pg._________

pg.____

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 16

3-THREAD ROLLED HEM

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

Use the Woolly Nylon in the Upper Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “C” o n the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 1.75.

•Locate the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem o n the Stitch Plate and pull it

towards you to disengage the Stitch Finger.

•Cutting Width should be at 2 (normal).

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge along one 6” edge.

•Return Stitch Length to normal.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal sewing position (away

from you).

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton fabric 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

pg.___

Specialty Stitches
Tips and Tricks

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 17

ORDING FOOT

C

BIAS RUFFLE

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 8” cut on the bias
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needle and Lower Looper)
1 cone of W oolly Nylon (Upper Looper)
Nylon fishing line 20 lb. test
PRESSER FOOT: Cording Foot

Feet-ures Unit
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Instruction Manual for Cording Foot

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

Use the Woolly Nylon in the Upper Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “C” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 1.75

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem towards you.

•Cutting Width should be at 2 (normal).

•Attach the Cording Foot.

•Raise the Presser Foot and swing it to the left.

•Following the direction in the Instruction Manual for Cording Foot, insert the

nylon fishing line through the Cord Guide.

•Return the Presser Foot to normal sewing position.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge along one 8” edge stretching

the fabric edge as you sew.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal sewing position (away

from you). Return Stitch Length to normal.

•Trim and mount the sample.

___pg___

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 18

CORDING FOOT

WIRED EDGE FABRIC

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton 3” X 18”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
28 gauge floral wire
PRESSER FOOT: Cording Foot

Instruction Manual for Cording Foot
Feet-ures Unit

___pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Serger Library – Simply Serging
Additions

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Center Needle.

Use the Woolly Nylon in the Upper Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “C” o n the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 1.75

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem towards you.

•Cutting Width should be at 2 (normal).

•Attach the Cording Foot.

•Raise the Presser Foot and swing it to the left.

•Following the direction in the Instruction Manual for Cording Fo ot, insert the

wire through the Cord Guide.

•Return the Presser Foot to normal sewing position.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge along one 18” edge feeding

the wire through the Presser Foot as you sew.

•Use Wire Cutters to cut the wire.

•Repeat for the other 18” edge of the fabric.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal sewing position (away

from you). Return Stitch Length to normal.

•Secure the thread tails with a Seam Sealant. When the sealant is dry, cut the

thread tails. Use wire cutters to cut the wire.

•Tie the wired fabric into a bow.

•Mount the sample on the next page.

DO NOT USE THE SERGER KNIVES.

pg.___

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 19

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 20

3-THREAD FLATLOCK

FABRIC: Sweatshirt fleece 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needle and Lower Looper)
1 cone of YLI J eans Stitch (Upper Looper)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook
Feet-ures Unit
Serger Library
Specialty Stitches

•Thread the serger for a 3-thread Overlock stitch using the Left Needle.

Use the Jeans Stitch in the Upper Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “D” on the Stitch Display Panel.

•Adjust the Stitch Length to 3. (You can shorten the Stitch Length slightly to fill in the

stitch as you serge.)

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and adjust it so that the guide is halfway between

the Left Needle and the right edge of the Stitch Finger.

•Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 2” X 6”.

•Place the fold under the Presser Foot and against the Right Hand Seam Guide.

•Slowly serge the fabric. The Looper threads will extend beyond the fabric on the

right side of the fold.

•Pull the fabric flat. If it does not lay flat, move the Right Hand Seam Guide towards

the Left Needle and try again.

•Press, trim and mount the sample.

pg.___

pg.___

___pg.___

– Tips and Tricks

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 21

WISH LIST

3-THREAD APPLICATIONS

•Bernette Advanced Workb oo k

•Serger Library

•Feet-ures

•Woolly Nylon thread

color________
color________

•Isacord thread
color________
color________

•YLI Jeans Stitch 
color________
color________

Needles –Sharp size____

size____

Microtex size____

size____

•

Point Well Taken

by Garber and O’Brien

•Cording Foot

•Blind Stitch Foot

•Aqua Film, Solvy, or Aqua Solve Water Soluble Stabilizer

•Seams Great (Bias Cut Tricot)

•Seam Sealant

•BERNINA Ironing System

•Pro Glide Plus Iron

•6” Ruler/Gauge

•Rotary cutter

•BERNINA Cutting Mat

•BERNINA 14” ruler

1999 BERNINA Of America

Section C - page 22

SECTION D – LET’S EXPERIMENT

I

NSTALLING THE UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER

• Turn the Handwheel to bring the Upper Looper to its lowest position
before attaching the Converter

• Used for specialty stitches
3-thread Super Stretch Stitch
3-thread Wrapped Stitch
2-thread Flatlock
2-thread Rolled Edge

– Instruction Manual pg.__

S

PECIALTY STITCHES

Super Stretch Stitch

• Ideal for active wear construction

• Use with Elasticator when applying elastic

• Position “B” on the Stitch Selection Panel

Automatic Tension Adjustment for Woolly Nylon

Two-Thread Flatlock

• Wide decorative stitch for home decor projects and active wear

• Po sition “E” on the Stitch Selection Panel

Automatic Tension Adjustment for correct stitch formation

• Deco Guide – Instruction Manual pg.___
Bypasses thread Tension Disks
Use with heavier decorative threads
Additional Deco Guides can be used for Needles and Upper Looper

Two-Thread Rolle d Hem

• Delicate decorative edge on fine fabrics

Wrapped Edges

• Perfect decorative edge finish for blankets and polar fleece edges

• Position “B” on the Stitch Selection Display Panel

Automatic Tension Adjustment for lighter decorative threads

• Use the Deco Guide to bypass tension disks for heavier threads

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 1

O

PTIONAL PRESSER FEET

Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

• Used for:
Making covered corded piping
Attaching beads
Attaching sequins

• Use with a variety of stitches
Covering cord

4-Thread Overlock stitch
3-Thread wide Overlock stitch with Left Needle
3-Thread Overlock stitch – Center Needle
3-Thread narrow Overlock stitch – Center Needle

Attaching beads

Two thread Rolled Edge
3-Thread Rolled Edge
3-Thread narrow Overlock stitch
3-Thread Flatlock – Center Needle
Two thread Flatlock – Center Needle

Attaching sequins

3-Thread wide Overlock stitch – Left Needle
3-Thread Flatlock – Left Needle
Two thread Flatlock – Left Needle

• Cording Guide – Instructional Manual for Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Correctly feeds cording under the Presser Foot
Use with the Gathering Attachment

Gather and cord in one operation

– Instructional Manual for Multi-Purpose Foot

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 2

3-THREAD SUPER STRETCH STITCH

FABRIC: Cotton or nylon Lycra 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 stretch or 11/75 ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
1 cone of Woolly Nylon (Lower Looper)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Attach the Upper Looper Converter – Instruction Manual pg.___.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B” to automatically adjust thread tension.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread

the serger for a Super Stretch Stitch using the Left and Center Needles. Use
Woolly Nylon in the Low er Looper.

•Adjust Stitch Length at 2.5 (normal).

•Fold the Lycra in half to 2½” X 6”.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge, cutting off the fold.

•Trim and mount the sample.

pg.___

pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 3

ATTACHING ELASTIC WITH THE

SUPER STRETCH STITCH

FABRIC: Cotton or nylon Lycra 3” X 6”

12” of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks
Instruction Manual for Elasticator Attachment

•Attach the Upper Looper Converter.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual thread the serger

for a Super Stretch Stitch using the Left and Center Needles. Use Woolly Nylon in
the Lower Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B”.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 4.

•Adjust the Presser Foot Presser Lever to “H” (increase).

•Attach the Elasticator Foot.

•Following the instructions in the Instruction Manual for Elasticator Attachment, thread

the elastic through the Presser Foot and adjust the Set Screw on the Roller Guide.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge attaching the elastic as you sew.

•Trim and mount the sample.

NEEDLES: 80/12 stretch or 11/75 ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
1 cone of Woolly Nylon (Lower Looper)
PRESSER FOOT: Elasticator Foot

pg.___

pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 4

2-THREAD FLATLOCK

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I
Feet-ures Unit
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton 4” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 1 cone of serger thread (Needle)

1 cone Jeans Stitch (Lower Looper)

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

pg.___

___pg.___

Specialty Stitches
Simply Serging

•Attach the Upper Looper Converter.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “E”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of the Instruction Manual thread the

serger for a 2-thread Flatlock Stitch using the Left Needle. Use Jeans Stitch
in the Lower Looper.

•Adjust Stitch Length for 2.5.

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and position the guide halfway between the

Left Needle and the Stitch Finger.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2” X 6”.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and against the Right Hand Seam Guide.

•Serge along the fold. The Looper threads should loop off the edge of the fold.

•Pull the fabric flat. If the fabric doesn’t lay flat, move the guide closer to the

Left Needle and try again.

•Press, trim and mount the sample.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 5

THE DECO GUIDE

G

UIDELINES FOR WORK ING WITH HEAVIER THREAD S

FABRIC: 3 pieces of heavy weight cotton 4” X 6”

Instruction Manual

NEEDLES: 90/14 Universal
THREAD: 1 cone of serger thread (Needle)

1 cone of each of the following:
YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
Madeira Glamour or YLI Candlelight
Madeira Décor or YLI Designer 6

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I
Feet-ures Unit
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

___pg.___

pg.___

Specialty Stitches
Simply Serging

•Attach the Upper Looper Converter.

•Following the directions in the Instruction Manual, attach the Deco Guide

over the Lower Looper Tension Slit.

•Thread the Lower Looper with the decorative thread. Thread the first Thread

Guide. The thread will pass through the Deco Guide skipping the tension disk.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “E”.

•Adjust Stitch Length to 4. You can slowly shorten the Stitch Length as you

serge to fill in the Flatlock stitch.

•Sew the sample.

•If the tension on the decorative thread is too tight, remove the thread from

Thread Guide #5 and try again.

•If the tension on the decorative thread is still too tight, remove the thread

from Thread Guide #7 and try again.

•If the tension is still too tight, remove the thread from the first Thread Guide

and try again. You may need to rethread guides #5 and/or #7 to slightly
increase the tension.

•Experiment with the suggested threads, by-passing Thread Guides as needed.

•Press, trim, and mount the samples on the next page.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 6

Pearl Crown Rayon

Glamour or Candlelight

Décor or Designer 6

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 7

2-THREAD ROLLED HEM

Instruction Manual
Bernette Advanced Guide Workbook Supplement I
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

•Attach the Upper Lopper Converter.

•Following the directions found in the Instruction Manual on page___, thread

for a 2-thread Rolled Edge.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A”.

•Set Stitch Length to 1.75.

•Pull the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem towards you.

•Adjust Cutting Width to 2 (normal).

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and serge one 6” edge cutting off

about 1/8” as you serge.

•Return the Stitch Selection Lever/Rolled Hem to normal sewing position (away

from you).

• Press, trim, and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Batiste 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
THREAD: 2 cones of Metrolene serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 8

WRAPPED EDGE

Instruction Manual
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks
Specialty Stitches
Simply Serging

•Attach the Upper Looper Converter.

•Following the directions in the Instruction Manual on page___ thread for a

Wrapped Edge using Jeans Stitch in the Lower Looper.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “B”.

•Serge one edge of the fabric. Engage Differential Feed if necessary.

•If the Jeans Stitch does not wrap, thread tension may be too tight. Reduce the

Looper Thread Tension. If the thread still does not wrap, remove the Jeans Stitch
from the Thread Guide#5 and try again. Wrap Stitch the other three edges of the
fabric.

•Use Seam Sealant to seal the Wrapped Stitch at the corners. When the sealant is dry,

trim the thread tails.

•Press and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Heavy wool or polar fleece 4” X 5”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 1 cone of serger thread (Needle)

1 cone of Jeans Stitch (Lower Looper)

PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 9

MULTI - PURPOSE FOOT

C

OVERED CORDED PIPING

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton bias strip 2” X 8”

NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

12” of 3/8” cotton cording

Feet-ures Unit
Serger Library – Tips and Tricks
Instruction Manual for Multi-Purpose Attachment with Guide

• Following the directions in the Instruction Manual on page___, thread for a

balanced 4-thread Overlock stitch using the Left and Center Needles.

• Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A”.

•Set Stitch Length to 3.5.

•Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the

Instruction Manual for Multi-Purpose Attachment with Guide.

•Insert the cord into the guide.

•Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove

under the Presser Foot.

•Serge the covered cord.

•Trim and mount the sample.

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 10

MULTI - PURPOSE FOOT

C

REATING AND ATTACHING COVERED CORDED PIPING

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton bias strip 2” X 8”
Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 8”

12” of 3/8” cotton cording
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures

Unit ___pg.___

Serger Library – Tips and Tricks

pg.___

Instruction Manual for Multi-Purpose Attachment with Guide

• Following the directions in the Instruction Manual on page___, thread for a
balanced 4-thread Overlock stitch using the Left and Center Needle.

• Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A”.

•Set Stitch Length to 3.

•Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the Instruction

Manual for Multi-purpose Attachment with Guide.

• Place the 3” X 8” fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Insert the cord into the Guide.

•Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the covered cord in the groove under the

Presser Foot and on top of the other fabric.

•Serge making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip in one stitching.

•Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.

•Trim and mount the sample.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 11

MULTIPURPOSE FOOT

With the Gathering Attachment

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures
Instruction Manual for Multi-purpose Attachment with Guide
Instruction Manual for Gathering Attachment

• Following the directions in the Instruction Manual on page___, thread for a

balanced 4-thread Overlock stitch using the Left and Center Needle.

• Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “A”.

•Set Stitch Length to 3.

•Adjust Differential Feed to 2.

•Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no Guide) following the directions in the

Instruction Manual for Multi-Purpose Attachment with Guide.

•Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the cord in the groove under
the Presser Foot. Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric. Lower the Needles into the
fabric.

•Attach the Gathering Attachment following the directions in the Instruction
Manual for Gathering Attachment.

• Place the 3” X 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and next to the
Needles.

•Serge covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and seaming all layers
together.

•Trim and mount the sample on the next page.

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton bias strip 2” X 8”
Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 18”

12” of 3/8” cotton cording
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

pg.___

Unit ___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 12

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 13

MULTIPURPOSE FOOT

PRE-S

Instruction

Manual

Feet-ures

pg.___

Unit ___pg.___

Serger Library – Specialty Stitches

FABRIC: Medium weight fabric 4” X 6”

NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Multi-Purpose Foot

TRUNG BEADS

10” of plastic pre-strung beads (4mm)

Instruction Manual for Multi-purpose Attachment with Guide

•Following the directions in the Instruction Manual on page___, thread for a
3-thread Flatlock using the Center Needle.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “D”.

•Set Stitch Length to 4.

•Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide) following the directions in the Instruction

Manual for Multi-Purpose Attachment with Guide.

•Attach the Right Hand Seam Guide and move the Guide halfway between the Right
Needle and the Stitch Finger.

•Lay the pre-strung beads in the groove on the top of the Presser Foot, threading them
under the back groove (See Instruction Manual for Multi-purpos e Attachment with
Guide).

•Turn the Handwheel to encase the first beads into the Thread Chain.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2” X 6” and place the fabric under the Presser Foot with the

fold against the Right Hand Seam Guide.

•Slowly Flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.

•Pull the fabric flat.

•Trim and mount the sample.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 14

WISH LIST

L

ETS EXPERIMENT

•Elasticator Foot

•Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

• Deco Guide

• Gathering Attachment

•Woolly Nylon thread

color________
color________

•Metrolene thread
color________
color________

•Decorative threads
YLI Jeans Stitch color________

YLI Pearl Crown Rayon color________

Madeira Décor color________
color________
YLI Decorator 6 color________
color________
Madeira Glamour color________
color________
YLI Candle Light color________
color________

color________

color________

•Bernette Advanced Workbook Supplement I

•Serger Library

•Feet-ures

•BERNINA Ironing System

•Pro Glide Plus Iron

•6” ruler/gauge

•Pearls-By-The-Yard (3mm-4mm)

•Seam Sealant

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section D - page 15

SECTION E – COVERS AND CHAINS

C

ONVERSION TO COVER /CHAIN STITCH

Conversion Chart
The Converter Arm

• Disengages the Upper Looper shaft

• Use the Needle Stop Button to lower the Needles

• Removing the Knife Guard – Instruction Manual pg.___

- Instruction Manual pg.___ and Q uick Reference Card
– Instruction Manual pg.___

Attaching the Cover/Chain Stitch Exte nsion Plate
Swing Out Presser Foot

• Easier Needle threading

• Locks the machine for safety

Raising the Knife Arm

• Rotate the knife up

• Remember to snug the White Locking Screw after moving the arm

Which Needles To Use

• 4-Thread Cover Stitch – Left, Center, and Right Needles

• 5-Thread Top and Bottom Cover Stitch – Left, Center, and Right Needles

• Wide 3-Thread Cover Stitch – Left and Right Needles

• Wide 4-Thread Top and Bottom Cover Stitch – Left and Right Needles

• Narrow 3-Thread (2.5mm) Cover Stitch – Center and Right Needles or

Left and Center Needles

• Narrow 4-Thread Top and Bottom Cover Stitch – Left and Center Needles

• Chain stitch – Right Needle only

– Instruction Manual pg.___

– Instruction Manual pg.___

– Instruction Manual pg. __

– Instruction Manual pg.___

T

HE COVER/CHAIN STITCH FOOT

• Wider for better fabric feeding

• Floating Toes to level the Presser Foot

Easier fabric guiding

• This Presser Foot does not swing to the left

• Closed holes

Completes the threading path

T

HREADING FOR COVER/CHAIN STITCH

– Instruction Manual pg.___

– Instruction Manual pg.___

Threading Order

First - Cover/Chain Stitch Looper
Second - Right Needle
Third - Center Needle
Fourth - Left Needle

• Raise the Presser Foot to open the Tension Disks.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 1

•

The Threading Path

– Instruction Manual pg.___

Use the Road Map inside the Looper Cover as a quick reference

4-Thread Cover Stitch And Wide 3-Thread Cover Stitch Threading

Instruction Manual pg.___

Threading the Cover/Chain Stitch Looper

• The Lower Looper when Overlocking

• Auto Threader – Instruction Manual pg.__ _

Use the Handwheel to bring the Chain Stitch Looper to the right
before engaging

• Thread tail hangs down
Cut it even with the base of the machine

• Thread Guide #5 and #6.
Study the Road Map inside the Looper Cover to see when to use these
Thread Guides.

• 3-Thread narrow (2.5mm) Cover Stitch – Instruction Manual page___

• Chain stitch – Instruction Manual pg.___

T

EST SEWING

Cover Stitch

– Instruction Manual pg.___

• Cut all thread tails even with the Free Arm Cover– Instruction

Manual pg.___

• Always start and end a Cover Stitch on the fabric

Use a starting/ending block of fabric if you wish to Cover Stitch
to the edge of the fabric.

• Needles will always stop in the down position

Rotate the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles and
free the threads from the Looper

• Use the Built-In Thread Cutter to cut the Thread Chain

Chain Stitch

– Instruction Manual pg.___

• When first threading always start with the Needle in the fabric

• Once the chain has been sewn you can stitch on to and off of the fabric

• Chain off the fabric

• Use the Built-In Thread Cutter to cut the Thread Chain

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 2

4-THREAD COVER STITCH

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference Card. and turn
the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual thread the
serger for a 4-Thread Cover Stitch.

•Center the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Cover Stitch the length of the fabric. Stop stitching with the Needles in the

fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest

position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Following the directions on page___ in the Instruction manual, remove the stitch.

•Place the fabric under the Presser Foot and Cover Stitch the length of the

fabric again.

•Following the directions on page___ in the Instruction manual, secure the thread

tail.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread

(yellow, green, brown, purple)

PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

pg.___

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 3

4-THREAD COVER STITCH

M

OCK FLAT FELLED SEAM

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference Card. and turn
the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the
serger for a 4-Thread Cover Stitch.

•Fold the fabric lengthwise to form a ½” tuck down the center.

•Place the fabric under the Needles with the bulk of the fold on the left. Line the

edge of the fold up with the inside of the Presser Foot’s Right Floating Toe.

•Cover Stitch the tuck in place. Stop stitching with the Needles on the fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest

position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton twill 4” X 6”
NEEDLES: 90/14 universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

pg.___

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 4

TOP AND BOTTOM COVER STITCH

Instruction Manual

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference Card.

•Insert the Left, Center, and Right Needles.

•Stitch Selection Dial to “H”.

•Attach the Fifth Spool Holder.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a 4-thread Cover Stitch.

•Push the Wiper Activating Lever towards the Needle Bar.

•Lower the Wiper.

•Thread the Wiper.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2½” X 6” and center the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Cover Stitch the length of the fabric. Stop stitching with the Needles in the

fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Remove the thread from the Wiper Spool Pin.

•Disengage the Wiper and pull the Wiper Activating Lever away from the Needle

Bar to return the serger to 4-thread Cover Stitch.

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 universal
THREAD: 5 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 5

5mm COVER STITCH

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton denim 3” X 6”
NEEDLES: 90/14 universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card.

•Insert the Left and Right Needles.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a 3-Thread wide (5mm) Cover Stitch.

• Place the fabric under the Needles with the fabric centered under the Presser

Foot.

• Cover Stitch the length of the fabric stopping with the Needles in the fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

pg._____

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 6

COVER STITCH HEM

W

OVEN FABRIC

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card. Insert the
Left and Right Needles and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the
serger for a 3-Thread wide (5mm) Cover Stitch.

• Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in place.

•Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the

Needles with the fold to the right of the Presser Foot. You are stitching on the
right side of the fabric.

• Cover Stitch the hem in place stopping with the Needles in the fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

pg.___

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 7

5mm COVER STITCH TOP AND BOTTOM

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 90/14 universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
2 spool of Jeans Stitch (Looper and wiper)
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference Card.

•Insert the Left and Right Needles.

•Turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “H”.

•Attach the Fifth Spool Holder.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the
serger for a 3-thread Cover Stitch with Jeans Stitch in the Looper.

•Push the Wiper Activating Lever towards the Needle Bar.

•Lower the Wiper.

•Thread the Wiper using Jeans Stitch

•Fold the fabric in half to 2½” X 6” and center the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Cover Stitch the length of the fabric. Stop stitching with the Needles in the

fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Remove the thread from the Wiper Spool Pin.

•Disengage the Wiper and pull the Wiper Activating Lever away from the Needle

Bar to return the serger to 3-thread Cover Stitch.

pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 8

COVER STITCH HEM

K

NIT FABRIC

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card. Insert the
Left and Right Needles and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the
serger for a 3-Thread wide (5mm) Cover Stitch. Use Woolly Nylon in the Looper.

• Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in place.

•Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the

Needles with the fold to the right of the Presser Foot. You are stitching on the
right side of the fabric.

• Cover Stitch the hem in place stopping with the Needles in the fabric. There

is no need to stretch the fabric while stitching. The Cover Stitch has a
natural stretch.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Cotton jersey (T-shirt) 5” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Stretch or Ballpoint
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread (Needles)
1 cone of Woolly Nylon (Looper)
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

pg.___

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 9

NARROW 2.5mm COVER STITCH

A

TTACHING LACE

Instruction Manual
Feet-ures Unit

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card. Insert the
Center and Right Needles and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the
serger for a 3-Thread narrow (2.5mm) Cover Stitch.

• Use a Fabric Stiffener or Spray Starch to stabilize the fabric and lace.

•Position the lace on the right side of the fabric with the scalloped edge of the

lace even with the right edge of the fabric.

•Place fabric and lace under the Needles with the lace header positioned even

with the inside edge of the Left Floating Toe.

• Cover Stitch the lace to the fabric stopping with the Needles in the fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away form you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim the fabric from beneath the lace and mount the sample.

FABRIC: Medium weight woven cotton 3” X 6”
8” of 1” wide edging lace
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch

pg.___

___pg.___

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 10

NARROW TOP AND BOTTOM COVER STITCH

FABRIC: medium weight woven cotton 4” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 Universal
THREAD: 4 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Standard

Instruction Manual pg.

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on
page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference Card.

•Insert the Left and Center Needles.

•Stitch Selection Dial to “H”.

•Attach the Fifth Spool Holder.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual thread the

serger for a 3-thread Cover Stitch.

•Push the Wiper Activating Lever towards the Needle Bar.

•Lower the Wiper.

•Thread the Wiper.

•Fold the fabric in half to 2” X 6” and center the fabric under the Presser Foot.

•Cover Stitch the length of the fabric. Stop stitching with the Needles in the

fabric.

•Turn the Handwheel away from you to raise the Needles to their highest position.

•Lift the Presser Foot and remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot.

•Trim and mount the sample.

•Remove the thread from the Wiper Spool Pin.

•Disengage the Wiper and pull the Wiper Activating Lever away from the Needle

Bar to return the serger to a 2.5mm 3-thread Cover Stitch.

_____

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 11

CHAINSTICH SEAM

Instruction Manual pg.
Feet-ures Unit____pg.____

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on

page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card. Insert the
Right Needle and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “G”.

•Set Stitch Length at 3.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a Chain Stitch.

• With right sides together place the fabric under the Needles. Use the 5/8” mark

on the Cover/Chain Stitch Extension Plate to position the fabric.

• Chain Stitch the fabrics together. Continue stitching off the end of the fabric.

•Following the directions on page ___ of the Instruction Manual, remove the chain

stitch.

• Lift the toe of the Presser Foot and Chain Stitch the seam a second time.

•Following the directions on page___ in the Instruction manual, secure the thread

tail.

•Trim and mount the sample.

FABRIC: 2 pieces of medium weight cotton 1½” X 6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 universal
THREAD: 2 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

_____

____

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 12

ATTACHING BINDING

Instruction Manual pg.
Feet-ures Unit____pg.____

FABRIC: Prequilted fabric 3” X 6”
20” of wide pre-folded bias binding
NEEDLES: 80/12 universal
THREAD: 2 or 3 cones of serger thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch

_____

____

Cover Stitch Option

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch. Insert the Left and Right Needles

and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “F”. Set Stitch Length at 3.

•Thread the serger for a wide 3-Thread Cover Stitch.

• Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric using 505 Adhesive

Spray to hold the binding in place.

•Place the fabric under the Needles with the unstitched edge of the binding even with

the inside of the Left Floating Toe. The quilted fabric will lay to the left.

• Cover Stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

Chain Stitch Option

•Thread the serger for a Chain Stitch using the Right Needle. Set the Stitch Selection

Dial to “G”. Set Stitch Length at 3.

• Wrap the bias binding around the other 6” side of the quilted fabric using 505

Adhesive Spray to hold the binding in place.

•Place the fabric under the Needle with the unstitched edge of the binding even with the

inside of the Right Floating Toe. The quilted fabric will lay to the right.

•Chain Stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

•Trim and mount the sample.

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 13

CHAINSTITCH WITH DECORATIVE THREAD

FABRIC: Medium weight cotton denim 6” X 6”
Tear Away Stabilizer 6x6”
NEEDLES: 80/12 universal
THREAD: 1 cone of serger thread
3 cones of Isacord
1 spool of Sulky or Madeira Metallic thread
PRESSER FOOT: Cover Stitch or Standard

Instruction Manual pg.

•Convert the serger from Overlock to Cover Stitch using the directions on

page__ in the Instruction Manual or on the Quick Reference card. Insert the
Right Needle and turn the Stitch Selection Dial to “G”.

•Set Stitch Length at 3.

•Following the instructions on page ___ of your Instruction Manual, thread the

serger for a Chain Stitch threading the 3 Isacord thread colors through the
thread guide for the chain stitch (Lower) Looper on the Thread Guide Support.
Thread all three Isacord threads together through the Chain Stitch (Lower)
Looper Tension Disks and the Chain Stitch (Lower) Looper Thread Guides. Use
a floss threader to thread the 3-Threads through the Eye of the Looper.

•Slightly loosen (down) the tension on the Chain Stitch Looper.

•With stabilizer on top and the right side of the fabric against the Stitch

Plate place the fabric under the Needle and lower the Presser Foot. (You will
be stitching on the wrong side of the fabric with the stabilizer on top).

•Stitch a curved line across the fabric.

•Remove the fabric from under the Presser Foot and turn the fabric over to see

the decorative stitching.

•To see more of the decorative thread, increase Stitch Length. Changing Stitch

Length as you sew varies the decorative chain stitch effect. Remember to
always keep the Stitch Length at least 2.5mm long.

•Stitch several more curving lines across the fabric.

•Remove one spool of Isacord thread and rethread the serger using 2 spools

of Isacord and 1 spool of metallic thread.

•Slightly loosen (down) the tension on the Chain Stitch Looper.

•Sew several additional rows of Decorative Chain Stitching.

•Trim and mount the sample on the following page.

_____

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 14

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 15

WISH LIST

C

•Feet-ures

•Isacord thread

color________
color________
color________

•Metrolene thread
color________
color________

•Sulky Metallic threads
color________
color________

•Madeira Metallic threads
color________
color________

•Woolly Nylon thread

OVERS AND CHAINS

color________
color________

•505 Temporary Spray Adhesive

•Bias tape

•Bias tape makers

•BERNINA Ironing System

•Pro Glide Plus Iron

•6” ruler/gauge

•Rotary cutter

•BERNINA Cutting Mat

•BERNINA 14” ruler

 1999 BERNINA Of America

Section E - page 16