Beisler 100-68 User Manual

100/68

Universal

Piped-Pocket-Sewing unit

Operating instructions

Assembly instructions

Service instructions

Programming instructions

Ausgabe / Edition: 02/2007 Printed in Federal Republic of Germany Teile-Nr.:/Part-No.:

Foreword

This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in accordance with the recommendations.

The instruction manual contains important information on how to operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and down-times, and increases the reliability and ute of the machine.

The instruction manual is intended to complement existing national accident prevention and environment protection regulations.

The instruction manual must always be available at the machine/sewing unit.

The instruction manual must be read and applied by any person that is authorized to work on the machine/sewing unit. This means:

Operation, including equipping, troubleshooting during the work cycle, removing of fabric waste,

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Service (maintenance, inspection, repair) and/or

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Transport.

The user also has to assure that only authorized personnel work on the machine.

The user is obliged to check the machine at least once per shift for apparent damages and to immediatly report any changes (including the performance in service), which impair the safety.

The user company must ensure that the machine is only operated in perfect working order.

Never remove or disable any safety devices.

If safety devices need to be removed for equipping, repairing or maintaining, the safety devices must be remounted directly after completion of the maintenance and repair work.

Unauthorized modification of the machine rules out liability of the manufacturer for damage resulting from this.

Observe all safety and danger recommendations on the machine/unit! The yellow-and-black striped surfaces designate permanend danger areas, eg danger of squashing, cutting, shearing or collision.

Besides the recommendations in this instruction manual also observe the general safety and accident prevention regulations!

General safety instructions

The non-observance ot the following satety instructions can cause bodily injuries or damages to the machine.

1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the

2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and

3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of

4. When gauge parts are exchanged (e.g. needle, presser foot,

instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training.

instructions of the motor supplier.

the machine without the safety devices is not permitted. Observe all the relevant safety regulations.

needle plate, feed dog and bobbin) when threading, when the workplace is left, and during service work, the machine must be disconnected from the mains by switching off the master switch or disconnecting the mains plug.

5. Daily servicing work must be carried out only by appropriately trained persons.

6. Repairs, conversion and special maintenance work must only be carried out by technicians or persons with appropriate training.

7. For service or repair work on pneumatic systems, disconnect the machine from the compressed air supply system (max. 7-10 bar). Before disconnecting, reduce the pressure of the maintenance unit. Exceptions to this are only adjustments and functions checks made by appropriately trained technicians.

8. Work on the electrical equipment must be carried out only by electricians or appropriately trained persons.

9. Work on parts and systems under electric current is not permitted, except as specified in regulations DIN VDE 0105.

10. Conversion or changes to the machine must be authorized by us and made only in adherence to all safety regulations.

11. For repairs, only replacement parts approved by us must be used.

12. Commissioning of the sewing head is prohibited until such time as the entire sewing unit is found to comply with EC directives.

It is absolutely necessary to to respect

the safety instructions marked by these signs.

Danger of bodily injuries !

Please note also the general safty instructions.

Index Page:

Part 1: Operating instructions 100/68

1. Description of product ..............................................5

1.1 Description of proper use .............................................5

1.2 Brief description...................................................5

1.3 Technical data ....................................................6

2. Operating ......................................................7

2.1 Swivelling the folding station aside .......................................7

2.2 Removing the fabric sliding sheet ........................................8

2.3 Needles and threads ................................................9

2.4 Threading the needle thread ...........................................11

2.5 Winding up the hook thread ...........................................12

2.6 Remaining thread monitor ............................................13

2.7 Slanted pocket opening (optional) .......................................14

2.7.1 Swivelling the corner knife station in and out .................................14

3. Switching on - Starting the sewing process - Program stop - Switching off ...........16

3.1 Switching on ....................................................16

3.2 Reference position ................................................17

3.3 Starting the sewing process ...........................................17

3.4 Program stop....................................................18

3.5 Switching off ....................................................18

4. Working methods ................................................19

4.1 Working method “Production of trousers” ...................................20

5. Quick clamp adjustment and folder monitoring .............................22

6. Function and operation of the optional equipment ...........................23

6.1 Tape feeding unit with automatic trimming and tape monitor........................23

6.2 Endless zipper device ..............................................26

7. Maintenance....................................................27

7.1 Cleaning ......................................................27

7.2 Oil level control ..................................................28

1. Description of product

1.1 Description of proper use

The Beisler 100/68 is a sewing unit which can properly be used for sewing light to medium-weight material. Such material is, as a rule, made of textile fibres or leather. These materials are used in the garment industry.

In general only dry material must be sewn on this machine. The material must not contain any hard objects.

The seam is generally made with core thread, polyester fibre or cotton threads. The dimensions for needle and hook threads can be taken from the table in chapter 2.4.

Before using any other threads it is necessary to estimate the consequential dangers and to take the respective safety measures, if required.

This sewing unit must only be installed and operated in dry and well-kept rooms. If the sewing unit is used in other rooms, which are not dry and well-kept, further measures to be agreed upon may become necessary (see EN 60204-31 : 1999).

We, as manufacturer of industrial sewing machines, assume that at least semi-skilled operating personnel will be working on our products so that all usual operations and, where applicable, their risks are presumed to be known.

1.2 Brief description

The Beisler 100/68 is a sewing unit for automated runstitching of piped pocket, flap pocket and welt pocket openings with rectangular or slanted pocket corners.

The slanted pocket corners result from the offset of the two seam rows. It is possible to sew different slants at the seam beginning and at the seam end.

Depending on the working method various feeding devices, corner knife stations and optional equipment are used.

Machine head

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Twin needle lockstitch version

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Needle bars can be switched/engaged jointly or separately

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Vertical hook

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Externally driven centre knife, speed and release time/switching time programmable

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Thread trimming device for needle and hook threads

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Monitor for the needle threads

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Photoelectric remaining thread monitor for the hook threads

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DC direct sewing drive

Step motors for the material feed and the length adjustment of the corner trimming device

The step motor technology allows short machine times and guarantees an absolutely precise material feed and accurate corner incisions.

Thus, it contributes to a pocket quality unrivalled as yet combined with high productivity.

New control generation “DAC III”

The graphic user guidance is exclusively effected by internationally comprehensible symbols and texts in the language of the respective country. The various symbols are arranged in groups within the menu structure of the sewing and test programs. The easy operation allows short training times.

20 storage locations with each 6 seam programs are available. Thus it is possible to generate and store up to 6 different seam programs per storage location. 6 seam programs can be allocated to every storage location in any desired order which can be sewn in succession.

All slants to be processed can be programmed by the operator via parameters.

The comprehensive test and monitoring system MULTITEST is integrated in the DAC. A microcomputer does the control tasks, supervises the sewing process and indicates operating errors and malfunctions in the display.

Optional equipment

Due to a flexible system of optional equipment the sewing unit can be optimally adapted to the respective application at low cost.

Sewing equipment and folders

Please see parts list of cl. 100/68 for details concerning sewing equipment and folders for the various applications or contact the Beisler company.

1.3 Technical data

Needle system: 2134-35

Needle distance: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16,

20, 22, 24, 26, 30 mm

Needle size: Nm 80 to Nm110

Threads: see table chapter 2.3

Stitch type: twin needle lockstitch

Speed: max. 3,000 r/ min

Stitch length: min. 0.5 to 3.0 mm

Number of condensed stitches: 1 - 20

Number of bartack stitches: 0 - 20

Stitch length condensed stitches/ bartacks 0.5 - 3.0 mm

Pocket length: max. 250mm

Operating pressure: 6 bar

Air consumption: approx. 6 NL per working cycle

Rated voltage: 1 x 230 V / 50/60 Hz Dimensions: 1750 x 1450 x 1700 mm (L xWxH)

Working height: 830 mm

(upper table top edge)

Weight: 270 kg

2. Operating

2.1 Swivelling the folding station aside

For work at the sewing point (threading the needle threads, needle change etc.) the entire folding station with folder and laser lamps can be swivelled to the right.

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Swivel the entire folding station 1 with folder to the right. The sewing point is freely accessible.

Note:

When the sewing unit is switched on a safety message is indicated in the display of the control panel.

Folding station swivelled out

Swivelling the folding station back

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Swivel the folding station 1 back.

ATTENTION !

After having been swivelled back the folding station must snap in catch 2.

2.2 Removing the fabric sliding sheet

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off. Remove the fabric sliding sheet only with the sewing unit switched off.

–

Switch the main switch off

For changing the hook thread bobbins: –

Lift the fabric sliding sheet 2 at/with the pin 1 and swivel it to the left.

For complete removing (for maintenance work and adjustments): –

Lift the fabric sliding sheet at the hind pin 3c completely.

2.3 Needles and threads

Needle system: 2134-85

Recommended needle size: Nm 90 for thin material

Nm 100 for medium-weight material

Nm 110 for heavy-weight material

High sewing security and good sewability are achieved with the following core threads:

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Two-ply polyester endless polyester core-spun (e.g. Epic Poly-Poly, Rasant x, Saba C, ...)

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Two-ply polyester endless cotton core-spun (e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant, ...)

If these threads are not available, the polyester fibre or cotton threads listed in the table can also be sewn.

Often two-ply core threads are offered by the thread manufacturers with the same designation as three-ply polyester fibre threads (3cyl.-spun).This causes uncertainty with regard to twisting and thread thickness.

When in doubt, unravel the thread and check whether it is twisted 2- or 3-ply. The label no. 120 on the thread reel of a core thread corresponds e.g. to the thread size Nm 80/2 (see table values in brackets).

In case of monofilament threads you can use needle threads and hook threads of the same thickness. The best results are achieved with soft and elastic threads (software) of the thread thickness 130 Denier.

Recommended thread thicknesses:

Needle size Core thread Core thread

Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread

Polyester Polyester Polyester Cotton

endless core-spun endless core-spun

Label No. Label No. Label No. Label No.

90 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2) 120 (Nm 80/2)

100 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2) 100 (Nm 65/2)

110 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2) 75 (Nm 50/2)

Needle size Polyester fibre thre-ad Cotton thread

Nm (3cyl.-spun)

Needle thread Hook thread Needle thread Hook thread

90 Nm 80/3-120/3 Nm 80/3-120/3 Ne

100 Nm 70/3-100/3 Nm 70/3-100/3 Ne

110 Nm 50/3-80/3 Nm 50/3-80/3 Ne

50/3-70/3 NeB50/3-70/3

40/3-60/3 NeB40/3-60/3

40/4-60/4 NeB40/4-60/4

Needle change

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off. Change the needles only when the main switch is switched off.

Risk of cuts!

Do not reach into the area of the centre knife 3 when changing the needles.

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Swivel the folding station aside (see chapter 2.1) The needles are freely accessible.

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Loosen screw 2 and remove needle from needle holder 1.

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Push a new needle into the drill-hole of needle holder 1 as far as it will go.

ATTENTION!

Seen from the operator’s side of the sewing unit the hollow groove 4 of the left needle must point to the left and the hollow groove 5 of the right neele to the right (see sketch).

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Tighten screw 2.

ATTENTION!

After the changeover to another needle size the needle protection at the hook has to be readjusted (see service instructions).

2.4 Threading the needle thread

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off. Thread the needle threads only with the sewing unit switched off.

See the illustration for threading the needle threads

2.5 Winding up the hook thread

32 1

The separate winder allows to wind up up the hook threads independent of the sewing process.

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Remove thread remainders from the bobbin hubs before winding up.

Put the thread reel on the thread reel holder.

Thread the thread through the drill-hole 1 of the unwinding arm.

Guide the thread through the guide 3.

Guide the thread through the bobbin thread tension 1.

Prewind the thread in the central supply groove of the bobbin hub in clockwise direction. The full supply groove guarantees a secure winding start, even in case of monofilament threads. With the thread supply in the supply groove it is ensured that the pocket opening can be safely finished after the remaining thread monitor has produced the message “bobbin empty”. The reflecting surface 4 of the bobbin hub has to be kept clean.

Press the bobbin retainer 2 against the bobbin hub. The winder starts. After reaching the set bobbin filling quantity the winder stops automatically. See the service instructions for setting the bobbin filling quantity.

2.6 Remaining thread monitor

The remaining thread monitor supervises the left and right hook thread bobbin with the infrared reflected light barriers 1 and 2.

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When the bobbin is empty, the light beam emitted by light barrier 1 or 2 is reflected at the free reflecting surface 3 of the bobbin hub.

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The display of the control unit indicates the message shown in the right picture.

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The remaining thread in the supply groove of the bobbin hub guarantees that the pocket opening is safely finished. The transport carriage stops in its rear end position.

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off.

Clean the lenses of the light barriers only with the sewing unit switched off.

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Switch the main switch off.

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When changing the bobbin always clean the lenses of the light barrier with a soft cloth.

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Switch the main switch on.

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Start the new sewing process.

2.7 Slanted pocket opening (optional)

The 100/68 is optionally equipped with an automatic corner knife station guaranteeing a precise incision of the corners of slanted pockets. For this purpose the machine head is equipped with disengageable needle bars.

Corner knife station

The adjustment of the corner knives as to the pocket length is programmable and is realized by a step motor.

The slanted pocket corners result from the offset of the two seam rows programmable in steps of 1 mm.

The programmable pocket corner incision - adjustable via two step motors - is freely selectable for the seam beginning and the seam end and amounts to max. +/- 10 mm in relation to the second seam.

The lateral distance of the corner knives to the seam is manually adjustable.

The whole unit can be folded out for adjusting and servicing.

2.7.1 Swivelling the corner knife station in and out

321

The corner knife station 1 can be swivelled out completely.

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off.

Swivel the corner knife station out only with the sewing unit switched off.

Swivelling the corner knife station out

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Push the rear corner knife support 3 (seam beginning) to the left.

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Pull catch 2 down.

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Swivel the corner knife station 1 to the left. The knives are accessible for adjusting and servicing.

Swivelling the corner knife station in

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Swivel the corner knife station 1 back under the sewing unit.

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Pull catch 2 down.

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Swivel the corner knife station 1 in completely.

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Release catch 2.

ATTENTION: Risk of breakage!

The holder 2 must snap in audibly.

Note:

If the corner knife station is swivelled out with the sewing unit switched on, the following message appears:

3. Switching on - Starting the sewing process - Program stop Switching off

3.1 Switching on

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switch the main switch 1 on (turn in clockwise direction). The control loads the machine program. The start screen appears in the display of the control panel and indicates the following message:

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Press the program stop switch 2. If the transport clamps are not at the reference position, a reference run is made.

3.2 Reference position

Reference position

The reference position is necessary to reach a defined initial position.

When the sewing unit is switched on, the control checks whether the transport carriage is in its rear end position. If this is not the case, the display shows the following message:

Caution: Risk of injury !

Risk of bruises between folder and deposit table.

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3.3 Starting the sewing process

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The individual steps of the feeding process can be cancelled.

Press the program stop switch. The reference run starts. The transport carriage moves to its rear end position.

The display changes over to the main screen of the sewing unit.

Actuate the central foot switch. By actuating the central foot switch repeatedly the different steps of the feeding process are started one after the other. The individual steps depend on the working method and on the equipment of the sewing unit.

For feeding corrections: Actuate the right foot switch or press the reset key. The last step of the feeding process is cancelled. The workpiece can be fed anew.

Step the central foot switch to the front. The sewing process starts.

3.4 Program stop

For an immediate switch-off of the sewing unit in case of operating errors, needle breakage, material accumulation etc. the safety system of the 100/68 will react as follows:

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Press program stop 1. The sewing process is stopped immediately.

3.5 Switching off

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Switch the main switch 2 off (turn counter-clockwise).

4. Working methods

The individual working methods for trousers and men’s jackets are described on the following pages. The description is structured as follows:

Feeding positions

This item indicates the feeding points for the different workpieces (e.g. left and right parts).

Aligning the positioning aids

Here you will find a description how to adjust and align the positioning aids (e.g. positioning marks, marking lamps, guides etc.).

Feeding and starting the sewing process

Here you will find a list of the individual feeding steps with practice-oriented examples.

ATTENTION!

The steps of the feeding process are dependent on the equipment of the respective sewing unit. So the feeding steps described in the examples apply to sewing units with the same equipment only.

Caution: Risk of injury!

Do not reach under the downholder, the transport clamp and the folder during the feeding process.

4.1 Working method “Production of trousers”

Possible processing variants

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Front trousers pockets with pocket bag positioned underneath

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Hind trousers pockets with or without flap, with pocket bag positioned underneath

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Hind trousers pockets with or without flap, with automatically fed reinforcement strip

Feeding method

Example: Hind trousers without flap, with pocket bag positioned underneath

1st step:

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Select the pocket program at the control panel

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Push the pocket bag under the pocket bag clamp 1 and position it at the markings 2. For example adhesive strips fitted on the fabric sliding sheet may serve as markings.

2nd step:

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Position the hind trousers at the “central positioning point” 5 and the marking 4.

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Actuate the central foot switch. The hind trousers is clamped by the fabric downholder 3.

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Smooth out the clamped hind trousers in the dart area.

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If the machine is additionally equipped with vacuum: Actuate the left foot switch. The vacuum is switched on.

3rd step:

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Step on the central pedal. The transport clamps move to the front and lower on the workpiece.

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Position the piping strip 6 on the transport clamps flush with the front edges 7. The aligning of the various kinds of piping on the transport clamps is described more exactly in the following. See “Positioning of piping strips”.

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Actuate the central foot switch. The folder 8 lowers.

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Actuate the central foot switch once again. The sewing process starts.

5. Quick clamp adjustment and folder monitoring

The lateral position of the transport clamps is influenced by the solenoid switches SC103 and SC106.

According to the equipment the magnets are fitted on the folders in different positions.

Depending on the selected folder the clamps are adjusted automatically.

1 = Folder for double piping

2 = Folder for single piping, left

3 = Folder for single piping, right

SC103

SC106

6. Function and operation of the optional equipment

This chapter describes the function and operation of the most important optional equipment.

6.1 Tape feeding unit with automatic trimming and tape monitor

The step motor- and length-controlled tape feed with automatic trimming transports the reinforcement strip under the pocket opening and cuts it off at the seam end (e.g. when sewing inside and outside pockets of men’s jackets).

A sensor supervising the tape feed is integrated in the tape feeding unit. The whole sequence is realized within the machine time so that there are no further feeding or secondary processing times.

If the tape is not pulled during the sewing process, e.g. in case of accumulation or wrong threading, a message is produced by the control.

Activating and switching the tape feed on

–

Activate the tape feed at the control panel in the menu item “Seam functions”.

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Tap the icon.

54 3

98 7

11 10

Inserting the reinforcement strip

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Put roll 1 on the tape roll holder 2. The full roll must rotate in the indicated arrow direction (counter-clockwise) when unwinding.

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Guide the reinforcement strip via guide 5.

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Swivel the fabric sliding sheet 9 aside.

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Press slide 7 backwards and lift off cover 8.

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Insert the reinforcement strip in the feeding device according to the sketch.

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Swivel the fabric sliding sheet 9 back again.

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Tap the key. The reinforcement strip is cut off and moved to the initial position.

Function and operation

Before the next sewing cycle the reinforcement strip is fed forward a little by the transport roller of the feeding device.

When sewing the pocket opening the reinforcement strip is seized and sewn in according to the set sewing length.

The tape projection at the seam beginning and seam end can be set in the menu item “Seam parameters” with the parameters 21 and 22 (see programming instructions).

6.2 Endless zipper device

Function

When the zipper halves are pulled by the transport clamps during the sewing process, the feed rod 6 is pulled upwards by the zipper getting shorter.

The feed rod switches the zipper feed on and the drive rollers 7 and 8 go on feeding the zipper until the switch rod drops and switches the feed off again.

Thus it is made sure that there is always enough zipper material available for sewing.

Activating and switching the zipper device on

–

Tap the key. The zipper device is activated.

Caution: Risk of injury !

During the swivelling and cutting process.

7. Maintenance

7.1 Cleaning

Caution: Risk of injury!

Switch the main switch off. Carry out maintenance work only with the sewing unit switched off.

43 21

A clean sewing unit protects from malfunction!

Clean and check daily:

–

Clean the area around the hooks 2 and 3 with the compressed air pistol.

–

When changing the bobbin always clean the lenses of the light barriers 1 and 4 of the remaining thread monitor with a soft cloth.

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Cleaning of the filter ring 6 at the vacuum valve 5: Blow out with compressed air pistol.

Clean and check daily:

–

Check the water level in the pressure regulator. The water level must not reach the filter insert. After screwing in the drain screw 2 blow the water out of the water separator 1 under pressure. The filter insert separates dirt and condensed water. After a certain time of operation

wash the dirty filter tray and the filter insert with benzine and blow

them clean with the compressed air pistol.

ATTENTION!

Do not use any solvents for washing out the filter tray and the filter insert! They destroy the filter tray.

7.2 Oil level control

For lubrication of the sewing machine head use exclusively the lubricating oil ESSO SP-NK 10. SP-NK 10 can be bought from the sales office of Beisler GMBH .

Checking the oil level in the oil reservoir 2 for the lubrication of the machine head

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The oil level in the oil reservoir 2 must not drop below the marking “Min”.

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If necessary, fill oil through the drill-hole 1 up to the upper marking.

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