Your machine is the most advanced computerized household embroidery and sewing machine.
To fully enjoy all the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended.
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser
feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in
the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual
•To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
•Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
•Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand
stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• Do not use outdoors.
7For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8For repair or adjustment:
• If the LED light (light-emitting Diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized retailer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized retailer.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Save these instructions.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................8
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................10
Front view....................................................................................................................................................... 10
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 11
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Viewing the LCD.............................................................................................................................................18
Changing the machine settings........................................................................................................................ 19
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 23
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 27
About the spool of thread................................................................................................................................29
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 29
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 32
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 33
Using the twin needle .....................................................................................................................................34
Pulling up the bobbin thread........................................................................................................................... 36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................38
Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 39
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 40
Replacing the needle....................................................................................................................................... 40
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 42
Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................42
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder .............................................................................................. 44
General sewing procedure ..............................................................................................................................48
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 50
Starting to sew................................................................................................................................................. 51
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 53
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 54
Setting the Stitch ............................................................................................................... 56
Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................ 56
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 57
Adjusting the thread tension............................................................................................................................ 57
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 62
Other stitches.................................................................................................................................................. 70
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 89
Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................91
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 94
Bar tack stitching........................................................................................................................................... 103
Changing the length for satin stitches ............................................................................................................117
Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................117
What to prepare ............................................................................................................................................ 126
Using prewound bobbins with standard GREEN marked bobbin case ...........................................................127
Using prewound bobbins with alternate PINK marked bobbin case .............................................................. 127
Using bobbin center pin (spacer)................................................................................................................... 128
Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................129
Attaching the Embroidery Foot........................................................................................130
Attaching the embroidery foot....................................................................................................................... 130
Removing the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 132
Attaching the Embroidery Unit........................................................................................133
Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 133
Attaching the embroidery unit....................................................................................................................... 133
Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 135
Replacing the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................135
Preparing the Fabric ........................................................................................................136
Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric ................................................................................................... 136
Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame..................................................................................................... 137
Attaching the Embroidery Frame..................................................................................... 140
Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 140
Removing the embroidery frame ...................................................................................................................141
Copyright information .................................................................................................................................. 142
Selecting an embroidery pattern/Baby Lock Exclusive pattern ....................................................................... 146
Selecting a frame pattern............................................................................................................................... 147
Using an embroidery card ............................................................................................................................ 148
Embroidering a pattern.................................................................................................................................. 149
Editing and Saving Patterns .............................................................................................153
Adjusting the layout ......................................................................................................................................153
Adjusting the thread tension.......................................................................................................................... 156
Thread runs out partway through a design..................................................................................................... 157
Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................158
Care and Maintenance .................................................................................................... 162
Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................162
Cleaning the race .......................................................................................................................................... 162
Cleaning the bobbin case.............................................................................................................................. 163
Adjusting the LCD......................................................................................................................................... 172
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
"Important Safety Instructions" (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various
functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
1
2
4
3
5
a Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 23).
b Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches (page 66).
c Quick-set bobbin
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 27).
d Automatic thread cutting
The thread can be cut automatically after sewing (page 60).
e Embroidery
You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, characters, framed decorations, and designs from optional embroidery
cards (page 125).
position(extra large))
H 30 cm X W 13 cm
(H 12 inches X W 5 inches)
EF85: Frame
EF90: Embroidery sheet
Memo
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.
z Visit your Baby Lock retailer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
z Use Baby Lock embroidery card with your machine. Please see your retailer for availability of
embroidery cards or visit the Baby Lock web site at www.babylock.com
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
a Thread guide plate
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when
threading the upper thread.
b Thread guide cover
Like with the thread guide plate, pass the thread around
the thread guide cover when threading the upper
thread.
c Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
d Bobbin winding thread guide
Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread.
e Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the
spool pin.
f Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
10
g Operation panel
From the operation panel, stitch settings can be viewed
and edited, and operations for using the machine can be
displayed (page 13).
h Embroidery unit connector slot
Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.
i Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot
j Operation buttons
Use these buttons to operate the machine.
k Flat bed attachment
Insert the accessories tray into the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat
bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as
sleeve cuffs.
l Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
m Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
b Thread guide disk
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.
c Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
guide.
d Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
e Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
f Bobbin cover/bobbin case
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin
into the bobbin case.
g Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
h Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
i Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
Right-side/rear view
a Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
b Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to
raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
c Embroidery card slot
Insert the embroidery card.
d Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be
exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
e Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
on and off.
f Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
g Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power
supply jack.
h Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
i Presser foot pressure dial
Use the presser foot pressure dial to adjust the amount
of pressure that the presser foot applies.
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a Start/stop button/
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).
The button changes color according to the machine’s
operation mode.
Green:The machine is ready to sew or is
sewing.
Red:The machine can not sew.
Orange:The machine is winding the bobbin
thread, or the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right side.
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 53).
c Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
d Thread cutter button
Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to
cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details,
refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 54).
e Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
Note
z Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while
the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to
the machine may occur.
z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon
thread or other special threads, use the
thread cutter on the side of the machine. For
details, refer to "Using the thread cutter"
(page 55).
CAUTION
● Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.
1
1
43
52
69
7
a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel)
Selected pattern settings and messages are displayed.
Touch the keys displayed on the LCD to perform
operations.
For details, refer to "LCD (Liquid Crystal Display)
Operation" (page 18).
b Back key
Press to return to the previous screen.
c Previous page key
Displays the previous screen when there are items that
are not displayed on the LCD.
d Next page key
Displays the next screen when there are items that are
not displayed on the LCD.
e Memory key/
Press to enter character embroidery, combined stitch
patterns, etc into the sewing machine memory.
8
69
7
f Utility stitch key /
Press this key to select a utility stitch or decorative
stitch.
g Embroidery key /
Press this key to sew embroidery.
h Settings key /
Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound,
and more.
i Sewing machine help key /
Press to get help on using the sewing machine.
Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread /
bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle
replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery
frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser
foot replacement.
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Po wer supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
off (the main power switch is set to ""), and
then plug the power supply cord into the
power supply jack on the right side of the
machine.
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
b
household electrical outlet.
1
a Power supply jack
Press the right side of the main power switch
c
on the right side of the machine to turn the
machine on (set it to "|").
X The light, LCD and / (Start/stop
button) light up when the machine is turned
on.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
b
the right side of the machine to turn the
machine off (set it to "").
X The sewing lamps go off when the machine
is turned off.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
c
electrical outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
supply cord.
Unplug the power supply cord from the power
d
supply jack.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front
of the sewing machine.
Viewing the LCD
When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed.
The screen is changed using the keys below the screen, and operations performed by directly touching the icons
on the LCD screen.
■ Utility stitch selection screen
lm
a
klm
a
k
b
b
j
h
c
c
i
d
e
a Selected stitch
b Presser foot to be used
c Stitches
d Stitch settings and twin needle sewing
e Stitch width (mm)
f Stitch length (mm)
g Thread tension
h Number of the selected stitch
g
f
d
e
i Number of stitches contained in the selected stitch
type
j Horizontal mirror image
k Automatic thread cutting
l Automatic reverse/reinforcement
m Single/twin needle sewing and needle stop position
■ Stitch type selection screen
Press / (Utility stitch key) to display the screen for selecting the stitch type. The details are
explained in "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
j
h
i
g
f
Memo
z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached.
z Refer to "Error messages" (page 169) for messages displayed on the LCD.
z Depending on the model of sewing machine, an animation may be displayed when the power is turned
on. When an animation is displayed, the screen above will be displayed if you touch the LCD with
your finger.
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below.
AttributeIconDetailsSettings
1
Needle
position
Stitch width
control
Vertical pattern
adjustment
Thread color
display
Display unit
Embroidery
tension
Max
embroidery
speed
Buzzer
Opening
screen
Specifies where the needle is positioned
when the sewing machine is stopped.
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with
the sewing speed controller.
Adjusts the up and down position of the
pattern (page 117).
Changes the thread color display on the
embroidery screen.
(When "Thread No. #123" is selected)
Selects the measurement units that are
displayed (only for embroidering).
Adjusts the thread tension for embroidering
(only for embroidering).
Specifies the maximum embroidering
speed.
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded
with each operation (page 173).
Sets whether or not to display the opening
screen when the power is turned on.
(There are models where this cannot be changed.)
Down Up
-9 to +9
Thread color/Time to embroider/
Needle count/Thread number (#123)
Embroidery/Country/Madeira poly/
Madeira rayon/Sulky/Robison anton
mm/INCH
-8 to +8
Initial needle
position
Language
LCD brightness
Stitch counter
Product
number
Program
version
Select the straight stitch that is automatically
selected when the machine is turned on.
Allows the language used in the screens to
be changed.
Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.
Display the service count of embroidery
stitches. The service count is a reminder to
take your machine in for regular servicing.
(Contact your authorized dealer for details.)
NO.:
Version: Display the program version.
The "NO." is the number for the
embroidery and sewing machine.
Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread /
bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle
replacement / embroidery unit attachment /
embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot
attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Press / (Sewing machine help key)
b
on the display panel.
1
X The sewing machine help screen appears.
Press the item to be displayed.
c
5
6
a Upper threading
b Bobbin winding
c Bobbin installation
d Needle replacement
e Embroidery unit attachment
f Embroidery frame attachment
g Embroidery foot attachment
h Presser foot replacement
X The first screen describing the procedure for
the selected topic appears.
• Pressing (Back key), returns you to the
item selection screen.
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Winding the bobbin
1
Be sure to observe the following precautions
concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the Bobbin (part code: X52800-
150) designed specifically for this sewing
machine. Use of any other bobbin may
result in injuries or damage to the
machine.
● The included bobbin was designed
specifically for this sewing machine. If
bobbins from other models are used, the
machine will not operate correctly. Use
only the included bobbin or bobbins of
the same type (part code: X52800-150).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the
bobbin thread.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Open the top cover.
b
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
c
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
in the bobbin
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the
bottom.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
g
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as
shown, with the rounded side on the left.
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
installed correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin,
causing the needle to break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If the
spool cap is too small for the spool being
used, the thread may catch on the slit in
the spool or the needle may break.
●
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
use the small spool cap, and leave a small
space between the cap and the spool.
c
a
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
b
i
and then pull it to the right.
1
a Thread guide plate
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread
j
guide, and then wind it counterclockwise
under the pretension disk.
1
1
1
3
a Spool net
b Spool
c Spool cap
d Spool pin
While holding the thread near the spool with
h
your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with
your left hand, and then pass the thread
behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
2
4
1
1
a Thread guide
While holding the thread with your left hand,
k
wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise
around the bobbin five or six times with your
right hand.
slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull
the thread to the right to cut it.
1
a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the
needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right.
m
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
press / (Start/stop button) once to
stop the machine.
CAUTION
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
o
wound around the bobbin.
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and
p
then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
a Speed controller
Press / (Start/stop button) once to
n
start winding the bobbin.
1
a Start/stop button
1
Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from
q
the spool pin, and then close the top cover.
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
other models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
included bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: X52800-150).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This modelOther model
1
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with
your finger and unroll the bobbin thread
correctly, otherwise the thread may break
or the thread tension will be incorrect.
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
a
1
a Bobbin cover
b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
Remove the bobbin cover.
b
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
c
the end of the thread with your left.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
2
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
e
hand, and then guide the thread as shown with
your left hand.
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring
of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted
correctly, reinsert the thread.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
g
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
1
X The bobbin threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in "Upper Threading" (page 29) .
Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
"Pulling up the bobbin thread" (page 36).
This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle.
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
About the spool of thread
Information about the spools of thread is described
below.
CAUTION
● Three spool cap sizes are available,
allowing you to choose a spool cap that
best fits the size of spool being used. If the
spool cap is too small for the spool being
used, the thread may catch on the slit in
the spool or the needle may break.
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
thread the machine.
thread passed under the thread guide plate,
pass the thread through the guides in the order
shown below.
1
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
k
guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand, as shown.
1
a Needle bar thread guide
1
a Shutter
Note
z If the presser foot has been lowered and the
shutter is closed, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot
and open the shutter before threading the
machine. In addition, before removing the
upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot
and open the shutter.
z This machine is equipped with a window
that allows you to check the position of the
take-up lever. Look through this window and
check that the thread is correctly fed through
the take-up lever.
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm of thread toward the rear of
the machine.
1
a 5 cm
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
Threading the needle manually
(
without using the needle threader
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of
130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle
which cannot be used with the needle threader,
thread the needle as described below.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
a
guide.
• For details, refer to "Upper Threading" (page
29).
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
)
Note
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press (Needle position button) to
raise the needle before using the needle
threader.
1
a Pressor foot lever
1
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
c
from front to back.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
d
thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm of thread toward the rear of
the machine.
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 66).
a Bobbin winder shaft
Swing down the spool pin so that it is
e
horizontal.
CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-151). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Install the twin needle.
a
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
"Replacing the needle" (page 40).
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
b
eye.
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on
f
the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of
the spool.
12
• For details, refer to steps
a through k of
"Threading the upper thread" (page 29).
Manually thread the left needle with the upper
c
thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
TypeSize
Thread
Size of Needle
1
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
BroadclothCotton thread
60–80
TaffetaSynthetic thread
Flannel, GabardineSilk thread50
LawnCotton thread
60–80
GeorgetteSynthetic thread
Challis, SatinSilk thread50
DenimCotton thread30–50
CorduroySynthetic thread
50
TweedSilk thread
Jersey
Thread for knits50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
50–80
Silk thread50
Synthetic thread
3090/14–100/16
Silk thread
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
75/11–90/14
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
■ Thread and needle number
The lower the thread number is, the larger the
thread, and the larger the needle number, the
larger the needle.
■ Ball point needle (gold colored)
To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles
with stretch fabrics.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the
fabric or thread.
■ Embroidery needles
Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When
embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use
a 90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.
• A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table
above. If the combination of the fabric,
thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics
(such as denim) with thin needles (such as
65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
break. In addition, the stitching may be
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1
2
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
CAUTION
● If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not
use a bent needle.
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
be straight according to the instructions in "Checking
the needle".
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
a Flat surface
1
1
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if / (Start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to
remove the needle.
1
2
a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
e
of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
While holding the needle with your left hand,
f
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp
screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
This section describes how to replace the presser foot.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
c
a
1
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if / (Start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
a
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
1
b
a Presser foot holder
b Notch
c Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
f
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g
presser foot is securely attached.
c
1
Buttonhole foot "A"
Overcasting foot "G"
Zigzag foot "J"
Button fitting foot "M"
Monogramming foot "N"
Blind stitch foot "R"
Side cutter "S"
Embroidery foot "Q"
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch
Setting Chart" (page 66).
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the screwdriver in your left hand.
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
embroidery foot and quilting foot. Use the
screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
b
holder screw.
a
b
c
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
1Turn on the machine.
2Select the stitch..
3Attach the presser foot.
4Position the fabric..
5Start sewing..
6Cut the thread..
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 17).
↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on
selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing
the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 42).
↓
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 50).
↓
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
51).
↓
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread,
refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 54).
Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are
67 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on,
the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.
The machine can also be set to select the straight
stitch (center needle position). For details on
changing the setting, refer to page 19.
Determine the stitch to be used, and get the
a
matching presser foot ready.
• Refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 66).
Attach the presser foot.
b
The machine comes with zigzag foot "J"
attached.
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Example:
11
is selected:
2
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the
stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used,
the needle may hit the presser foot and
break or bend.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
• When an animation is displayed on the
screen, touch the screen with your finger.
Select a stitch.
d
(Previous page key) displays the previous
screen, and (Next page key) displays the
next screen.
X The stitch is selected, and the stitch number
and settings are displayed.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
e
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
Memo
z
Uses of stitches and other stitch selections are
explained in
z Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
and other settings are explained in "Useful
Functions" (page 59).
z The procedures for specifying the thread
tension are described in"Adjusting the thread
tension" (page 57).
z Procedures for changing the stitch width and
length are described in "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 56) and "Adjusting the stitch
length" (page 57).
"UTILITY STITCHES" (page 65)
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears on
the screen. For details, refer to "Replacing
the presser foot" (page 42). Check that the
correct presser foot is attached before
starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is
installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach
the correct presser foot, and then select the
desired stitch again.
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
Note
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
/ (Start/stop button) can not be
used to start or stop sewing.
■ Using the operation button
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button / (Start/stop button).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
1
• If you continue to hold the / (Start/
stop button) pressed immediately after the
sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow
speed.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
c
d
e
/ (Start/stop button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
When you have finished sewing, press
(Needle position button).
X The needle is raised.
Cut the threads.
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
54).
Note
z This machine will automatically stop when
the bobbin becomes almost empty. When
the machine stops, replace the bobbin
thread, and then press / (Start/stop
button) to begin sewing again.
2
Press / (Start/stop button) once.
b
1
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model BLR.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
d
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
Slower
Faster
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
•
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
f
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
When you have finished sewing, press
g
(Needle position button).
X The needle is raised.
Cut the threads.
h
For details, refer to
•
54)
.
"Cutting the thread" (page
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in, /
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to
start or stop sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the
machine settings" (page 19).
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
e
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
52
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the
machine or injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
a
beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
Press / (Start/stop button) or press
b
down on the foot controller.
At this time, if / (Start/stop button) is
held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
At this time, if the / (Start/stop button)
is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
i
sewing machine stops.
Release the / (Start/stop button) or foot
controller.
1
/
3
/
2
1
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.
■ Using the thread cutter button
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
a
b
(Thread cutter button) once.
1
a Thread cutter button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the
fabric.
2
/
4
/
a Beginning of stitching
2
b End of stitching
■ Sewing stitches
Reverse stitches are set for the 1 3 and 7
stitches.
When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
is pressed with stitches other than these,
reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement
stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each
other in one place.
12
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
2
Memo
z
The sewing machine can be set to automatically
sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the
beginning and end of the stitching. For details,
"Automatically sewing reverse/
refer to
reinforcement stitches" (page 59)
.
a
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
● Do not press (Thread cutter button)
after the threads have already been cut,
otherwise the needle may break, the
threads may become tangled or damage
to the machine may occur.
● Do not press (Thread cutter button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or
while the machine is sewing, otherwise
damage to the machine may occur.
Memo
z The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For
details on setting the machine so that the
threads are cut automatically, refer to
"Automatically cutting the thread" (page 60).
When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon
or metallic threads, or other special threads, use
the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut
the threads.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
a
sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle
position button) once to raise the needle.
1
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
2
a
a Presser foot lever
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
c
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension
for each stitch.However, you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then
following the procedure described in this section.
Note
z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed. For details, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 66).
z Stitch settings return to their defaults if they are changed, when the machine is turned off or a different
stitch is selected before the stitch setting is saved.
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
Each press of makes the zigzag stitch narrower.
Each press of
makes the zigzag stitch wider.
Memo
z Press to return the setting to its
default.
z
If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple
stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch
width changes the needle position. Increasing
the width moves the needle to the right;
reducing the width moves the needle to the left.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the
sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
"Satin stitching" (page 102).
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
coarser or finer.
Each press of makes the stitch finer (shorter).
Each press of makes the stitch coarser (longer).
Adjusting the thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
4
2
Memo
z Press to return the setting to its
default.
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
1
2
3
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Bobbin thread
e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and
end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Setting
Chart" (page 66).
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 49).
then press / (Start/stop button) once.
1
a Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
e
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
2
Press on the LCD.
c
X It turns to , and the sewing machine is set
for automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press .
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
1
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
/
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be
sewn if / (Start/stop button) is
pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to
press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) at the end of the stitching.
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut
the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called
"programmed thread-cutting". If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching is also set.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
"Selecting stitching" (page 49).
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
a
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (Needle position button) to
lower the needle.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
"Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 64).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch,
select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
Adjusting the presser foot pressure
For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, thin fabrics
or thick fabrics, adjust the presser foot pressure (amount
of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric).
of the machine to adjust the pressure of the
presser foot.
The presser foot pressure can be set to one of
four levels (between 1 and 4). The larger the
setting, the stronger the pressure.
Use setting 1 or 2 for thick fabrics, use setting 4
for thinner fabrics.
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to
c
3 (standard).
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
Press the black button (presser foot holding
b
pin) on the left side of zigzag foot "J". Keep the
button held in and lower the presser foot.
1
a Presser foot holding pin
X
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
2
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
a
a Sewing direction
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
a
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
CAUTION
●
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with
too much force, the needle may bend or
break.
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
1
a Basting
Besides, using the stretch stitching or the thread for
knits gives an attractive finishes.
Sewing an even seam
allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
a Seam
b Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
5
1
4
64
2
a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
d Inches
e Needle plate
f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
3
6
3UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
This section provides details on the various types of stitches available and the procedure for selecting a stitch.
Stitch types
A stitch can be selected from the following types
available.
For details on the various stitches, refer to "Stitch
Setting Chart" (page 66).
abc
def
a Utility stitches
You can select from 67 utility stitches, including
straight line stitching, overcasting, button holes and
basic decorative stitches. If this is selected, the
utility stitch selection appears right after the power
is turned on.
b Decorative stitches
(Can be combined)
You can select from 51 decorative stitches,
including leaves, flowers and hearts. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
Selecting stitching
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
• When an animation is displayed on the
screen, touch the screen with your finger.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected on the screen.
PressUtility stitch key / (utility stitch
b
key) on the operation panel.
3
c Satin stitches
(Can be combined)
You can select from 16 satin stitches. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
d Cross stitches
(Can be combined)
You can select from 14 cross stitches. You can sew
combinations of multiple decorative stitches.
e Combined utility stitches
(Can be combined)
You can sew with combinations from 39 utility
stitches.
f Patterns stored in the machine's memory
You can recall a stored pattern.
X The screen containing the various types of
stitches appears.
Select the stitch type.
c
X The screen containing the various stitches in
the selected stitch type appears.
• To select a different stitch type, press
(Back key).
(Previous page key) displays the previous
screen, and (Next page key) displays the
next screen.
When a decorative stitch is selected
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears on
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
i h
length, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width"
(page 56) and "Adjusting the stitch length"
(page 57).
a
b
c
d
a Decorative stitch selection
b Set width, length and tension
c Single stitch sewing
d Repeat sewing
e Horizontal mirror image
f Delete a selected pattern
g Check combined pattern
h Automatic thread cutting
i Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
• To select a different stitch, press to
remove the selected pattern.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
e
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
This machine is preset with the default settings for the
stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread
tension, programmed thread cutting, and automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching for each stitch.
However, if you wish to save specific settings for a
stitch so that they can be used later, press after
changing the settings to save the new settings with
the selected stitch.
This feature can be used only with utility stitches.
To use a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the
straight stitch
Select a straight stitch.
a
Press .
b
Memo
z The default stitch length is 2.5 mm.
Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.
c
Press .
e
Note
z The next time that the same straight stitch is
selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.
z All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag
width), stitch length, thread tension,
programmed thread cutting, and automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching, etc.) are
saved, not just the setting that was changed.
When the same stitch pattern is selected, the
last settings saved are displayed even if the
machine was turned off. If the settings are
changed again and is pressed, or if
is pressed to reset the setting to its
default, the new settings are not saved unless
is pressed another time.
Even if is pressed, the settings for
programmed thread cutting and automatic
reverse/reinforcement stitching cannot be
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. 15 stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".
Stitch Name PatternApplication
11
Preventing fraying in medium
weight and thin fabrics
Overcasting
stitch
Attach overcasting foot "G".
a
12
13
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics and fabrics that fray
easily
G
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Select a stitch.
b
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
AutoManualAutoManual
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
c
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a
a Guide
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
d
presser foot guide.
Presser
Foot
G
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five
stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the
needle using the needle threader.
Stitch Name PatternApplication
63
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
64
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thin and
mediumweight fabrics while
Side Cutter
65
cutting the fabric
66
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
67
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
AutoManualAutoManual
0.0
(0)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
c
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page
53).
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
54).
■ Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).
12
a Straight stitch (left needle position)
b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
3
1
0.02.05.57.0
34 5
2
a Stitch width setting
b Distance from the needle position to the right side
of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 56).
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
a Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
1
1
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
a
and length of the buttonhole.
3
1
A
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
3
4
a Marks on fabric
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b
foot "A", and then insert the button that will be
put through the buttonhole.
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
2
3
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
Select a stitch.
d
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Position the fabric with the front end of the
e
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on
the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
c
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
1
A
2
a Mark on fabric (front)
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot.
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1
2
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
g
your left hand, and then start sewing.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
j
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
the stitching from being cut.
1
a Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
k
open the buttonhole.
1
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
3
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,
h
and then cut the thread.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
i
position.
1
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to (to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
d
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
• Since the end of the thread will be tied off
later, do not set the sewing machine for
programmed-thread cutting.
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
e
the distance between the holes in the button.
Place the button in the position where it will
f
be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.
3
a
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Attach button-sewing foot "M".
c
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
a
a Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Start sewing.
h
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
When you are finished attaching the button,
j
slide the drop feed lever to (to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise
the feed dogs.
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side.
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
a
and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• Do not press (Thread cutter button).
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
i
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it
with the bobbin thread.
a Shank lever
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
b
with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching at
the wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stiching
c Zipper
Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of
f
the basting on the outside.
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b Zipper basting
c Outside basting
d 5 mm (2 inches)
4
1
Select stitch 3.
h
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
i
you (counterclockwise) to check
Topstitch around the zipper.
1
3
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot "I".
1
I
2
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
2
4
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
i
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
of the zipper.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
j
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever.
Open the zipper and continue sewing.
k
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
l
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
a Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
m
of zipper foot "I".
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Name PatternApplication
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
AutoManualAutoManual
Stretch stitch
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
10
5
Stretch fabrics
9
Attaching elastic
34
Attaching elastic to stretch
fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Select stitch 5.
b
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
Foot
J
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
c
94
1
2
a Elastic tape
b Pin
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
d
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
3
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it
c
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1
Turn the handwheel toward you
f
(counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
3
a Basting stitching
Attach zigzag foot "J".
d
J
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Select a stitch.
e
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
"piecing". The fabric pieces should be cut with a
7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 7 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
a
fabric that you wish to piece together.
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser
foot" (page 42).
Select stitch 21 or 22.
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
• The piecing straight stitch shows a "P" on the
LCD.
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
d
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with
the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
21
.
1
a 7 mm (1/4 inch)
98
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