Baby Lock BL480A Reference Guide
PREFACE
Thank you for your purchase of this Combination Overlock, Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch
Machine. This machine, that is intended for household use will provide you with excellent
performance in sewing from light to heavy material (lawn to denim).
Please refer to this Instruction manual for proper use and optimum service. To get the most out
of your serger, read the entire Instruction manual before attempting to operate the machine.
Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the Instruction manual page by page.
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern serging capabilities, the
manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this
sewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation.
For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www.babylock.com
1
“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following.
Read all instructions before using this overlock machine.
DANGER - To reduce the the risk of electric shock:
1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock
machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near
children.
.
2. Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
.
3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized dealer of
service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
.
4. Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the overlock
machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
.
6. Do not use outdoors.
.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.
.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
.
10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.
.
11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.
.
12. Do not use bent needles.
.
13. Do not pull of push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle(s) causing it to break.
.
14. Switch the overlock machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area,
such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot, and the like.
.
15. Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
.
16. Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the area near the blades.
.
17. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National
legislation relating to electrical / electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
.
18. The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.
.
19. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
“SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS”
“This overlock machine is intended for household use.”
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page Page
1. ........................................................Principal Parts.
2. ..........................................Accessories...................
3. .................................................Needle Information.
4. .......................................How to Open Front Cover
...............5. Principal Parts Behind the Front Cover.
6. Connecting Machine to Power Supply..................
7. ............Removal and Replacement of Waste Tray
8. Preparation for Threading......................................
Setting up the thread antenna...................................
Thread Net................................................................
Spool cap..................................................................
.............9. How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife
10. To Convert Upper Looper to 2-Thread Converter
To use the ................................2-Thread converter
To disengage to upper looper..................................
11. Standard Overlock and Rolled Hem Stitching....
To sew standard overlock........................................
To sew rolled hem....................................................
12. How to Remove and Insert Needles.....................
Needle position........................................................
To remove needle(s)................................................
To insert needle(s)...................................................
13. Threading the Machine..........................................
Threading diagram ..................................sequence
Tension color code...................................................
To thread the machine correctly...............................
Threading the upper looper (Green)........................
Threading the lower looper (Blue)............................
Threading the chain/ cover stitch looper (Purple)....
Threading the overlock right needle (Yellow)...........
Threading the chain stitch needle (Red)..................
Threading the cover stitch needles..........................
Threading the cover stitch left needle (Red)
Threading the cover stitch middle/chain stitch
needle (Yellow).......................................................
Threading the cover stitch right needle(Green).....
14. How to Change Threads / Tie on Method...........
15. How to Adjust the Seam Width............................
Width adjustment by changing needle position......
Width adjustment with adjustment knob.................
16. How to Adjust the Stitch Length..........................
17. How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure..........
18. Differential Feed....................................................
Gathered overedge.................................................
Stretch overedge.....................................................
19. Presser Foot Markings..........................................
20. Presser Foot Lifter.................................................
21. Chaining Off and Test Sewing..............................
22. Selection Stitches & Auto Tension...................
4
23. .......................Handy Reference Chart..............
6
6
24. Suggested Tension Setting...............................
7
Chain Stitch..........................................................
7
2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock......................
7
2-Thread ......................Overlock (Narrow/ Wide)
8
3-Thread Overlock...............................................
9
3-Thread Flatlock.................................................
9
3-Thread Mock Safety Stitch...............................
9
4-Thread Mock Safely Stitch................................
9
10
11
11
11
12
12
12
13
13
13
13
14
14
14
15
15
16
18
19
21
23
23
24
26
28
29
29
29
30
30
31
31
32
33
33
33
4-Thread Chain Stitch-2-Thread Overlock...........
5-Thread Chain Stitch-3-Thread Overlock...........
25. How to Sew a Cover Stitch...............................
Machine set up................................................
26. How to Sew a Rolled Hem.................................
3-Thread Narrow Hem ........................................
3-Thread Rolled Hem .........................................
2-Thread ............................Narrow Hem............
2-Thread Rolled Hem..........................................
27. Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques.......
Decorative Flatlocking.........................................
How to sew an overlock blindhem......................
How to sew a pin tucks.......................................
Turning square corners.......................................
Pin placement.....................................................
Securing the thread chain...................................
How to reinforce a seam......................................
Braiding by chaining off......................................
28. Machine Maintenance........................................
Cleaning the machine..........................................
Oiling the machine...............................................
How to replace the moveable knife.....................
How to change light bulb.....................................
29. Snap On Presser Foot Removal/Repiacement
30. Optional Presser Feet.........................................
Elastic Foot ........................................................
Blindhem Foot ....................................................
Ruffling Foot .......................................................
Beading Foot........................................................
Cording Foot........................................................
Taping Foot..........................................................
31. Troubleshooting Chart......................................
32. Fabric, Thread and Needle Guide.......................
33. Specification.......................................................
34
37
39
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
48
53
54
54
55
55
57
58
59
59
60
61
61
62
62
63
63
63
64
65
66
67
67
67
67
67
67
67
68
69
70
3
1. PRINCIPAL PARTS
1. Thread antenna
2. Handle
3. Left needle thread tension fine tuning (red)
4. Right needle thread tension fine tuning (yellow)
5. Upper looper thread tension fine tuning (green)
6. Lower looper thread tension fine tuning ( )blue
7. Chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning (purple)
8. Needle plate
9. Side cover
10. Front cover
11.Power & light switch
12. Stitch length dial
13. Handwheel
14. Spool stand
15. Cone adaptor
16. Spool pin
17. Waste tray
1 . Auto tension dial8
19. Machine socket
3
1
6
5
4
7
2
18
16
15
8
9
13
10
17
11
19
14
12
4
20. Presser bar lifter and tension release
21. Differential feed adjusting dial
22. Width adjustment dial
23. Foot pressure adjusting dial
24. Knife cover
25. Seam guide plate
26. Seam width finger lever
23
20
21
26
22
24
25
26
N
R
5
2. ACCESSORIES
Accessories are contained in the accessory case
1. Screw driver (large size)
2. Knife (movable)
3. Spool cap(s)
4. Thread net(s)
5. Oiler
6. Allen wrench (small)
7. Tweezers
8. Needle set
9. Brush
2-Thread converter
10.
11.
Seam guide plate
Accessories in box with machine
12. Spool holder
13. Waste tray
14. Machine cover
15. Instruction manual
16. Foot controller/Power cord
17. Thread Antenna
18. Knife cover
1
1
5
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
789
6
3
4
5
10
Optional Accessories
1. Elastic foot..........................
2. Blindhem foot ....................
3. Ruffling foot........................
4. Beading foot.......................
5. Cording foot........................
6. Taping foot..........................
BL408A-EF
BL408A-BHF
BL408A-RF
BL408A-BF
BL408A-CF
BL408A-TF
3. NEEDLE INFORMATION
This overlock uses a flat shank needle that eliminates
the possibility of inserting the needle backwards.
HAx1 size 14/90 is furnished withneedle the machine.
Only use Needle HAx1/ size 14/90 and 1ELx705 in 1/80.
11
14
HAx1/ ELx705
Overlock needle
12
13
15
17
1816
6
4. HOW TO OPEN FRONT COVER
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off power switch.
CAUTION
Be sure front cover is closed when
sewing.
1
Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.
Pull cover down toward you.
2
5. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE FRONT
COVER
1
Upper looper
Moveable Upper knife
2
Presser foot
3
Fixed lower knife
4
Lower looper
5
6
Chain/Cover looper
Rolled Hem
7
Upper looper clutch / Driving clutch
8
1
2
1
2
3
7
5
4
6
6. CONNECTING MACHINE TO POWER
SUPPLY
Connect the machine/foot to the machine
1
receptacle.
2
Plug power line into electric outlet.
3
Power Switch: Push"l"mark side to turn "ON"
Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"
To run the machine and control the speed, press
4
the controller.
The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot
from the controller.
Note: Always make sure that the machine is in the off
position, before connecting to power supply.
control plug
8
1
ON
3
OFF
4
2
WARNING:
Use only foot controller provided with this machine.
(Type 4C-316B for U.S.A. & CANADA only)
Be sure to make reference to "Warning" on following
Page.
7
POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does
not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician
to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Warning:
* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated
voltage of the motor.
* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything
on top of it when not in use.
* Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet
or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine
by accidentally pressing the controller.
7. REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF
WASTE TRAY
Replacement
Insert the waste tray under the looper cover.
1
Be sure the left side of clean pocket is mounted near the
2
cutter where the scraps drop.
Removal
To remove, hold the as shown andwaste tray pull it outward.
3
2
1
3
8
8. PREPARATION FOR THREADING
Setting Up the Thread Antenna
Take out the thread antenna from the top of styrofoam,
and insert it as shown in first illustration.
This machine is shipped with the thread antenna on the
top of styrofoam.
Fully extend the thread antenna.
The two joints on the telescope will click into place
when they are correctly positioned as shown in second
illustration
Center the thread guides above the spool pins.
Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins.
Note: Your new machine is threaded to sew Triple Cover
Stitch. Refer to Page for instructions on tying on
to the threads.
28
Thread Net
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone,
slip the thread net furnished with the machine over the thread
from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free
at the top as shown on the right.
Spool Cap
When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap supplied
with the machine onto the thread spool as shown at right.
Thread
Spool cap
Press in
Thread spool
9
9. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE
Caution:
Be sure to turn off power switch.
To place movable knife in nonworking position
Open front cover (page 7). Pull the movable knife holder to
1
the right as far as it will go.
Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into the
2
locked position.
1
2
To place movable knife in working position
Open cover.front Pull the movable knife holder to the right
1
as far as it will go.
Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the
2
working position
Caution:
Always close cover before operatingfront
machine.
1
2
10
10. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO 2-THREAD
CONVERTER
Caution:
When not threading the upper looper, the 2-thread converter
must be engaged into the upper looper eye.
Be sure to turn off power switch
To Use the 2-Thread converter
To engage the 2-Thread converter, insert the point of the
1
converter into the back of the eye of upper looper.
Straddle the square part of the converter over the upper
2
looper and lower the converter till it lightly snaps into position.
See illustration.
1
2
To Disengage 2-Thread converter
3
To disengage the 2-Thread converter, raise the square end of
the converter and remove from the upper looper. See illustration.
Note: When using the upper looper, the 2-Thread converter must be
disengaged.
11
3
11. STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM
STITCHING
To Sew Standard Overlock
Set seam width finger lever N to move seam width finger
to standard overedge sewing position.
Note: far as it
Be sure to push seam width finger lever as
will go in the direction of setting N.
N
R
To Sew Rolled Hem
Set seam width finger lever to R to retract the seam width
finger and set it for rolled hem.
Note: as it
Be sure to push seam width finger lever as far
will go in the direction of setting R.
N
R
12
12. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES
Needle Position
With this machine, five needles can be inserted into the needle
clamp as shown in the drawing but only one, two or three
needles are to be used at one time.
The Instruction refers to different needle positions by
illustrating the needle clamp at right.
: When both the left and right overedge needlesNote are
inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than
the right. When all cover stitch needles are inserted,
the left needle will be slightly higher than the others.
manual
Overedge left needle
Overedge right needle
A
B
Cover stitch right needle
C
Cover stitch middle needle
/ Chain stitch needle
D
Cover stitch left needle
E
D
Right overedge
E
needle thread
D
C
Left and right
overedge needle
thread
To Remove Needle (s)
Caution: Be sure to disconnect the machine from the
electric outlet before removing needle(s).
Turn the handwheel toward you until the needles are at their
highest position.
Hold the needles with your fingers
Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screws with the small
allen screwdriver.
Lower the needles and remove from the machine.
A. Overedge needleleft
B. Overedge right needle
C. Cover stitch left needle
D. Cover stitch middle needle
E. Cover stitch right needle
Attention:
After removing the needle which is not currently being used for
sewing, remember to retighten the set screw in the needle clamp.
Please do not over-tighten the set screw to prevent needle clamp
damage.
Left, middle and right cover
stitch needle thread
Chain stitch
needle thread
B
C
D
Flat surface to the rear
B
A
A
B
E
To Insert Needle (s)
Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back.
Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it will go.
When inserting a needle, if you first lower it down into the hole
in the needle plate it will line up with the needle socket. Then
direct it upwards
Note: it is
When inserting needles into the A or B sockets
necessary to loosen both A & B Allen screws. After
inserting the needles equally tighten both screws.
Totighten
Toloosen
13
13. THREADING THE MACHINE
53241
Threading Diagram Sequence:
5-Thread Chain Stitch-3-Thread overlock
A color coded threading diagram is located inside the front cover
for quick reference.
Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown at right.
Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock
and Chain stitching as shown.
Tension Color Code:
5-Thread Chain Stitch-3-Thread overlock
1. Upper looper thread............................
2. Lower looper thread............................
3. Chain stitch looper thread...................
4. Right needle thread............................
5. Chain stitch needle thread..................
Green
Blue
Purple
Yellow
Red
Chain stitch
Overlock
C
L
2
4
5
34
1
3
2
1
Threading Diagram Sequence:
Triple Cover Stitch
A color coded threading diagram is located inside the front cover
for quick reference.
Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown at right.
Note: cover for Cover
Threads go through the top of take-up lever
stitch as shown.
Tension Color Code :
1. Cover stitch looper thread.............
2. Right needle thread.......................
3. Middle needle thread.....................
4. Left needle thread..........................
Triple Cover Stitch
Purple
Green
Yellow
Red
14
C
L
2
4
3
1
To Thread The Machine Correctly
Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch.
1
2
1) Threading the (Green)Upper Looper
Open the front cover and thread the upper looper as indicated in
steps 1 through 9.
- Raise the presser foot to release tension discs.
- Thread the upper looper area of the machine following the green
color-coded thread guides.
1
Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.
Thread the top cover
2
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
pretension disc as
illustrated.
2
3
4
9
7
1
2
5
8
6
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension
3
discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
3
Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.
4
5
Place the thread from right to left and position thread behind
finger on thread guide.
15
3
4
5
6
Thread the balance of the upper looper area of the machine
7
following the green color coded thread guides.
8
Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back. Make
9
sure thread passes behind lower looper. Pull about 10cm
(4 inches) of thread through the looper and place to the back
of the needle plate.
Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in
threading the looper.
9
8
4
10cm
(4")
9
5
6
7
8
2) Threading the (Blue)Lower Looper
Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends
out 5~10mm from the needle plate edge.
Open the front cover and thread the lower looper as indicated in
steps 1 through 10.
- Raise presser foot to release Tension discs.
- Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper eye
extends out 5-10 mm from the needle plate edge.
- Thread the lower looper area of the machine following the bule
color-coded thread guides.
1
2
3
4
10
9
8
5
7
6
C
L
1
Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.
1
Thread the top cover
2
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
2
along the right side of
pretension disc as
illustrated.
2
16
3
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension
discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
3
3
Thread the looper area of the machine following the blue color
coded thread guides 4~10.
4
Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.
5
Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.
6
Thread the balance of the lower looper area of the
7
machine following the blue color-coded thread guides,
8
placing thread in guides.
Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about
9
10cm (4 inches) of thread and position into V cutout (B)
10
on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull
threader lever (C) up to place thread into correct position
(D) for sewing.
10
9
8
7
6
4
5
9
10
4
5
C
L
8
7
6
10cm
A
D
B
(4")
Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in
threading the looper.
17
C
3) Threading the (Purple)
Chain and Cover stitch Looper
Open the front cover and thread the chain stitch/ cover stitch
looper as indicated in steps 1 through 11.
- Raise presser foot to release Tension discs.
- Turn the handwheel toward you until the chain stitch looper
eye extends out 5-10 mm from the needle plate edge.
- Thread the chain looper area of the machine following the
purple color-coded thread guides.
1
2
3
10
11
5
4
1
Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.
Thread the top cover
2
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
2
pretension disc as
illustrated.
9
8
2
6
7
C
L
1
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension
3
discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
3
3
18
Thread the looper area of the machine following the purple
color-coded thread guides 4~11.
4
Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.
5
Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.
6
Thread the balance of the lower looper area of the machine
7
following the purple color-coded thread guides, placing
8
thread in guides.
9
10
Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about
10cm (4 inches) of thread and position into V cutout (B)
on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull
threader lever (C) up to place thread into correct position
(D) for sewing.
4
9
7
8
10
A
B
5
6
11
D
10cm
(4")
Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to
aid in threading the looper.
4) Threading the (Yellow)
Overlock Right Needle
(B on needle clamp)
Thread the right needle as indicated in steps 1 through 9.
- Raise presser foot to release tension discs.
19
C
1
2
3
6
7
5
8
4
9
1
Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.
Thread the top cover
2
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
2
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
pretension disc as
illustrated.
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension
3
discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly
located in between the tension discs.
1
2
3
Slip thread behind metal guide and into rear slot on thread
4
5
guide.
6
Pass thread into the slot of take-up lever cover.
Position thread into the right guide located at base of take-up
7
lever cover.
Slip thread from left to right into the thread guide located
8
on bottom of the needle clamp. Position the thread into the
right section of the guide.
Note: Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind thread
guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp.
3
7
6
8
9
4
5
20
Thread the eye of the right needle from front to back. Draw
9
about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye toward
the rear of machine and place thread to the back, under the
presser foot.
Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in
threading the looper.
5) Threading the (Red)
Chain Stitch Needle
(D on needle clamp) CENTER NEEDLE
Thread the center needle as indicated in steps 1 through 9.
-Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.
9
10cm
(4")
1
2
3
6
7
5
4
8
9
1
Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.
2
Thread the top cover
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
2
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
pretension disc as
illustrated.
1
2
21
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