Whirlpool 4GWTW4800YQ0 Parts Diagram

FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
Voltage Measurement Safety Information
When performing live voltage measurements, you must do the following:
Verify the controls are in the off position so that the appliance does not start when energized. Allow enough space to perform the voltage measurements without obstructions. Keep other people a safe distance away from the appliance to prevent potential injury. Always use the proper testing equipment. After voltage measurements, always disconnect power before servicing.
IMPORTANT: Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) Sensitive Electronics
ESD problems are present everywhere. Most people begin to feel an ESD discharge at approximately 3000V. It takes as little as 10V to destroy, damage, or weaken the main control assembly. The new main control assembly may appear to work well after repair is finished, but a malfunction may occur at a later date due to ESD stress.
Use an anti-static wrist strap. Connect wrist strap to green ground connection point or
unpainted metal in the appliance
-OR­ Touch your finger repeatedly to a green ground connection point or unpainted metal
in the appliance.
Before removing the part from its package, touch the anti-static bag to a green ground
connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance.
Avoid touching electronic parts or terminal contacts; handle electronic control assembly
by edges only.
When repackaging main control assembly in anti-static bag, observe above instructions.
This service data sheet is intended for use by persons having electrical, electronic, and mechanical experience and knowledge at a level generally considered acceptable in the appliance repair trade. Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property damage. The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible, nor assume any liability for injury or damage of any kind arising from the use of this data sheet.
Contents
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE — “For Technicians only”
Diagnostic Guide .................................................. 2
Activating Service Diagnostic Test Modes ............. 2
Diagnostic Test Modes ..................................... 3–5
Customer Viewable Fault Codes ............................ 5
Service Fault / Error Codes ............................... 6, 7
Automatic Tests ................................................... 8
PART NO. W10280489D
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
Manual Tests ........................................................ 9
Troubleshooting Guide ..................................10, 11
Troubleshooting Tests................................... 12–18
Main Control Connectors & Pinouts .................... 12
Component Locations & Washer Specs .............. 19
Wiring Diagrams .......................................... 20, 21
PAGE 1
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE
Before servicing, check the following:
Make sure there is power at the wall outlet. Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker
tripped? Was a regular fuse used? Inform customer that a time-delay fuse is required.
Are both hot and cold water faucets open
and water supply hoses unobstructed?
All tests/checks should be made with a
VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) or DVM (digital-voltmeter) having a sensitivity of 20,000 per volt DC or greater.
Resistance checks must be made with
washer unplugged or power disconnected.
IMPORTANT: Avoid using large
diameter probes when checking harness connectors as the probes may damage the connectors upon insertion.
Check all harnesses and connections before
replacing components. Look for connectors not fully seated, broken or loose wires and terminals, or wires not pressed into connectors far enough to engage metal barbs.
A potential cause of a control not
functioning is corrosion or contamination on connections. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity across suspected connections.
ACTIVATING THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
1. Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off).
2. Perform the following sequence of movement using the cycle selector knob. NOTE: AFTER RESET, sequence “a” through “e” must be completed within 6 seconds.
RESET - Rotate cycle selector knob
L
  
counterclockwise one or more clicks to clear sequence.
a. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise
R
one click and wait ½ second.
b. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise
R
one click and wait ½ second.
c. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise
R
one click and wait ½ second.
d. Rotate cycle selector knob
L
counterclockwise one click and wait ½ second.
e. Rotate cycle selector knob
R
clockwise one click.
DIAGNOSTIC LED – MAIN CONTROL
A troubleshooting tool has been implemented onto the main control board—a diagnostic LED. LED ON – The Control is detecting correct incoming line voltage and the processor is functioning. LED OFF – Control malfunction. Perform TEST #1: Main Control, page 12, to verify main control functionality.
LED Location
Figure 1
SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
These tests allow factory or service personnel to test and verify all inputs to the main control board. You may want to do a quick and overall checkup of the washer with these tests before going to specific troubleshooting tests.
PAGE 2
Successful activation of Diagnostic Test
Modes will be indicated by all status LEDs (except for Lid Locked) flashing ON and OFF in half-second intervals. NOTE: LED names may vary between makes and models.
Legend: = ON = OFF
0.5 Seconds ON
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
0.5 Seconds OFF
Figure 2 - Status LEDs flashing ON and OFF
If the status LEDs do not display as
described above, the sequence may not have been completed within 6 seconds. Repeat step 2 to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see Unsuccessful Entry, page 3.
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
41
20
41
3. There are several accessible Diagnostic Test Modes shown in the chart below. To select the desired Mode of Operation, turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs match the mode desired to enter.
EDOM
(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)
Fault Code Display Mode Automatic Test Mode Manual Test Mode Calibration Mode Sales Demo Mode UI Test Mode SW Version Display Mode Factory Diagnostics Mode Tachometer Verification Mode
STATUS LEDs
WASH
RINSE
4 4 4
8
4. Press the START button to enter desired mode of operation.
Refer to the following pages for detailed information on each mode of operation:
FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE: Page 3 AUTOMATIC TEST MODE: Page 4 MANUAL TEST MODE: Page 4 CALIBRATION MODE: Page 4 SALES DEMO MODE: NOT FOR SERVICE USE* UI TEST MODE: Page 4 SW VERSION DISPLAY MODE: Page 5 FACTORY DIAGNOSTICS: If accessed, washer
must be recalibrated (see Calibration Mode)
TACHOMETER VERIFICATION MODE: Page 5 *Press and hold the START key for 3 seconds to exit.
Unsuccessful Entry
If entry into diagnostic test mode is unsuccessful, refer to the following indication and action:
Indication: None of the LEDs turn on. Action: Press START button to enter setting mode.
If indicators come on, repeat steps 1
through 4 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes. NOTE: Rotating the
FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE (Pgs 6–7)
To access fault/error codes, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Done” LED On
SPIN
DONE
1 2 2
1
1 2 2
18
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
Press the START button to enter Fault Code Display Mode. The status LEDs flash on and off.
1. To view last 4 fault codes:
Turn cycle selector knob clockwise to view
fault codes in the order of most recent to oldest. (Refer to Fault/Error Code charts on pages 6 & 7.)
NOTE: A fault/error code will be removed
from memory if it does not reoccur after 10 consecutive wash cycles.
2. To clear fault codes:
Turn cycle selector knob until the status LEDs
flash ON and OFF (see figure 2, page 2).
Press and hold the START button
for 3 seconds to clear all fault codes and exit Fault Code Display Mode.
Fault/Error Code Display Method
Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals. All fault/error codes have an F# and an E#. The F# indicates the suspect System/Category and the E# indicates the suspect Component system.
If the Fill or Sensing LED is ON, the Fault Number is represented; if OFF, the Error Number is represented (see example below). The remaining LEDs (Wash, Rinse, Spin, and Done) represent the fault and error code in binary. (See Fault/Error Code Charts on pages 6 & 7 for more information.) = ON.
STATUS LEDs
dial too fast or too slow will affect entry.
If no indicators come on after pressing the
START button, go to TEST #1, page 12.
Frame Number
FILL
SENSING
WASH
EXITING THE SERVICE
1F 8421F2
RINSE
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES
Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time to exit diagnostic test modes.
Washer will exit diagnostic test modes after 5 minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord.
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
3E 8421E3
Repeat…
LED names may vary between makes and models.
SPIN
DONE
Fault / Error Code
Frame Timing (sec.)
0.5 .5
0.5 .0
PAGE 3
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
AUTOMATIC TEST MODE (Page 8)
To access Automatic Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Spin” LED On
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.
Press the START button to begin the automatic test. See page 8 for order of automatic test.
Upon entering the automatic test mode, the
washer will perform an automatic test with water cycles to check major washer functions.
Pressing the START button will manually
advance to the next step.
Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds
at any time to exit Automatic Test mode.
IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with lid lock enabled to perform test.
MANUAL TEST MODE (Page 9)
To access Manual Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Spin & Done” LEDs On
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
Press the START button to enter Manual Test Mode. See page 9 for manual test mode.
Upon entering the manual test mode,
the washer will have all outputs OFF.
The cycle selector knob is used to select
the output to be tested.
The START button will activate/deactivate
the selected output.
When the selected output is activated, the
corresponding status LEDs flash ON & OFF.
Press and hold the START button for 3
seconds at any time to exit Manual test mode.
IMPORTANT: As a safety feature, the lid must be closed with lid lock enabled to activate either Agitate or Spin Test.
NOTE: Multiple outputs may be activated simultaneously.
NOTE: Outputs left on will time-out after 5 minutes.
CALIBRATION MODE
IMPORTANT: Calibration must be performed when any of the following components have been replaced: Main Control, Basket, Drive Assembly, Suspension, Motor, and Capacitor. Not performing calibration will result in poor wash performance. To access Calibration Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Rinse” LED On
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.
Press the START button to begin washer calibration. All status LEDs will turn on.
Do NOT interrupt calibration, disturb washer,
or remove power; otherwise, calibration must be repeated.
Lid must be down to perform test.Basket must be empty to perform test
(no water or clothes).
Calibration cycle runs for approximately
2–4 minutes. Cycle completes when door unlocks and washer enters standby mode.
UI TEST MODE
To access UI (User Interface) Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Rinse & Spin” LEDs On
(1)Fill (2)Wash (3)Rinse (4)Spin (5)Done
NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models. Use LED # identifications.
Press the START button to begin the UI test.
Upon entering the UI test mode, all status
LEDs will be turned ON.
Pressing the START button will turn on and
off all status LEDs, or toggle the state of each status LED independently. (Example: if 2 are on, and 3 are off, then 2 will be turned off and 3 turned on.)
When rotating the cycle selector knob, each
click “indent” toggles the “Done” (5) LED.
PAGE 4
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
Turning the rotary switches will toggle
the following status LEDs on and off.
 •RotarySwitch#1-toggles(1)FillLED  •RotarySwitch#2-toggles(2)WashLED  •RotarySwitch#3-toggles(3)RinseLED  •RotarySwitch#4-toggles(4)SpinLED
NOTE: The number and location of rotary
switches varies between makes and models. Switches are read from left to right (not counting the pressure switch), the left-most switch being #1.
Press and hold the START button for
3 seconds at any time to exit UI test mode.
Washer will exit UI test mode after
5 minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord.
SOFTWARE VERSION DISPLAY MODE
To access Software Version Display Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Rinse, Spin, and Done” LEDs On
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.
Press the START button to begin software display mode.
Upon entering the software version display
mode, the Major, Minor, and Test version numbers for the software are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals; the process repeats following a pause.
For example, if the s/w version is 02.01.07,
the following sequence would be displayed:
16 8 4 2 1
02
TACHOMETER VERIFICATION MODE
To access Tachometer Verification Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows:
“Wash and Done” LEDs On
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
NOTE: Status LED names may vary between makes and models.
Press the START button to begin tachometer verification mode.
Tachometer verification uses the status
LEDs to represent the tachometer frequency (basket RPM).
For example, slowly turn the basket
by hand; as the basket turns, the DONE, SPIN, RINSE, and WASH status LEDs will illuminate one at a time in a visually repeating cycle. The LED timing is derived from the tachometer signal itself.
Press and hold the START button for
3 seconds at any time to exit tachometer verification mode.
CUSTOMER VIEWABLE FAULT CODES
There are 3 fault codes that may be visible to the customer indicated by the following Status LEDs:
WASH LED ON (Long Fill Fault) – Refer to
“No Fill, Long Fill” on page 7 for information.
SPIN LED ON (Long Drain Fault) – Refer
to “Long Drain” on page 7 for information.
LID LOCK LED FLASHING CONTINUOUSLY
(Lid Lock Fault) – Refer to “Lid Lock Fault” on page 6 for information.
FOR SERVICE FAULT AND ERROR CODES,
CONTINUE TO PAGES 6 AND 7
01
07
Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
Press and hold the START button for
3 seconds at any time to exit software version display mode.
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
PAGE 5
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
21
22
21
22
41
41
42
8421
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FAULT/ERROR CODES #1 — See page 3 to access Fault Code Display Mode. = ON
FAULT/ERROR CODE – DESCRIPTION
Status LEDs
Explanation & Recommended Procedure
(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)
FILL*
WASH
RINSE
F0E0 – NO FAULT
SENSING
8421 Off
On
F0E2 – OVER SUDS CONDITION DETECTED
Fault is displayed when Suds prevent the basket from spinning up to speed or the pressure sensor detects rising suds level. The main control will flush water in attempt to clear Suds. If the water flush is unable to correct the problem, this may indicate:
• Not using HE detergent.
• Excessive detergent usage.
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket. (Clothing between basket and tub.)
F0E4 – HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE – RINSE CYCLE
Fault is displayed when washer detects water temperature 105° or higher during rinse cycle.
• Hot water getting in. Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.
• If hoses are installed properly, temperature thermistor may be stuck in low resistance range.
• See TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
F0E5 – OFF BALANCE LOAD DETECTED
Fault is displayed when an off balance condition is detected.
• Check for weak suspension. Basket should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed.
• Clothing should be distributed evenly when loading.
F1E1 – MAIN CONTROL FAULT
Indicates a main control fault.
• See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
F1E2 – MOTOR CONTROL FAULT
Indicates a fault of the motor control section of the main control.
• See TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor, page 14.
F2E1 – STUCK KEY
One or more keys on the User Interface were actuated for 15 consecutive seconds.
• Fault occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if a stuck key is detected.
• See TEST #4: Consoles and Indicators, page 16.
F2E3 – MISMATCH OF MAIN CONTROL & UI
The User Interface identification does not match the expected value in the Main Control Board.
• Fault occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if a mismatch of main control and UI is identified.
• See TEST #4: Consoles and Indicators, page 16.
F3E1 – PRESSURE SENSOR FAULT
Fault is displayed when the Main Control detects an out of range pressure signal.
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
F3E2 – INLET WATER TEMPERATURE FAULT
Fault is displayed when the Inlet Thermistor is detected to be open or shorted.
• See TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
F5E1 – LID SWITCH FAULT
Fault is displayed if lid is in locked state, but lid switch is open.
• User presses START with lid open.
• The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
• See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
F5E2 – LID LOCK FAULT
Fault is displayed if Lid Lock has not moved into locked position or motor cannot be powered.
• Lid is not closed completely due to interference.
• Check for lock interference with lock striker.
• Wash media buildup (detergent, lint, etc.) is preventing the lock mechanism from sliding.
• Main control detects open lid switch when attempting to lock.
• Main control cannot determine if lid lock is in a locked state.
• See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
* If the Fill or Sensing LED is ON, the fault code is represented; if OFF, the error code is represented.
ERROR NUMBERFAULT NUMBER
SPIN
DONE
FILL*
SENSING
1
1
1
1
1
1
Status LEDs
WASH
RINSE
4
SPIN
2
1
2
1
DONE
PAGE 6
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
F2
41
41
81
82
84
81
44
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FE
FAULT/ERROR CODES #2 — See page 3 to access Fault Code Display Mode. = ON
FAULT/ERROR CODE – DESCRIPTION
Status LEDs
Explanation & Recommended Procedure
(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)
SENSING
WASH
FILL*
RINSE
F5E3 – LID UNLOCK FAULT
Fault is displayed if Lid Lock has not moved into unlocked position or motor cannot be powered.
• Check for lock interference with lock striker.
• Main control cannot determine if lid lock is in an unlocked state.
• See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
F5E4 – LID NOT OPENED BETWEEN CYCLES
Fault is displayed if the following conditions occur:
• User presses START after several consecutive washer cycles without opening lid.
• See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
F7E1 – BASKET SPEED SENSOR FAULT
Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine speed of basket, or speed changes too quickly.
• Locked rotor—check that basket, impeller, and motor can rotate freely.
• Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.
• See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13.
4
21
F7E5 – SHIFTER FAULT
Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine position of shifter.
• Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.
• Observe shifter operation.
• See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13.
F7E6 – MOTOR FAULT
Indicates an open clockwise or counterclockwise circuit of the motor.
• See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.
F7E7 – MOTOR UNABLE TO REACH TARGET RPM
Fault is displayed when basket speed sensor detects that target RPM was not reached.
• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (clothing between basket and tub).
• Weak motor or run capacitor, or no connection to run capacitor.
• Load off balance. Clothing should be distributed evenly when loading.
• See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.
F8E1 – NO FILL, LONG FILL
Fault is displayed when the water level does not change for a period of time OR water is present but main control does not detect the water level changing.
• Is water supply connected and turned on?
• Low water pressure; fill times longer than six minutes. Are hose screens plugged?
• Check for proper drain hose installation. Is water siphoning out of the drain hose?
• Drain hose must not be more than 4.5" (113mm) into the drain pipe.
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
F
21
F8E3 – OVERFLOW CONDITION
Fault is displayed when main control senses water level that exceeds the washer’s capacity.
• May signify problem with inlet water valves.
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• Onboard pressure transducer or off-board pressure switch fault (depending on model).
• Not pumping—pressure switch closed or shorted in standby, or after washer completes a cycle.
• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13 and TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
F8E5 – HOT, COLD REVERSED
Fault is displayed when the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed.
• Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.
• If hoses are installed properly, temperature thermistor may be stuck in low resistance range.
• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13 and TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
F E
F9E1 – LONG DRAIN
Fault is displayed when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on for 10 minutes.
• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? Check tub sump under impeller for obstructions.
• Is the drain hose height greater than 96"?
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
* If the Fill or Sensing LED is ON, the fault code is represented; if OFF, the error code is represented.
SPIN
DONE
1
1
ERROR NUMBERFAULT NUMBER
Status LEDs
FILL*
SENSING
E482148
E
WASH
RINSE
SPIN
1
4
421
2
4421
2
1
1
1
DONE
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
PAGE 7
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
AUTOMATIC TEST MODE — See page 4 to access Automatic Test Mode. = ON
Press the START button to begin the Automatic Test. IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed and locked to perform Automatic Test.
FUNCTION
STATUS LEDs
Est. TIME
Recommended Procedure
(Status LED names may vary between makes and models)
LID WILL LOCK
Motor must be at “0” RPM. If lid does not lock, go to Manual Test: Lid Lock, page 9.
COLD VALVE WILL ACTUATE
If water is not present, or temperature is wrong, go to Manual Test: Cold Valve, page 9.
HOT VALVE WILL ACTUATE
If water is not present, or temperature is wrong, go to Manual Test: Hot Valve, page 9.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
Washer will pause for 5 seconds.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
Washer will pause for 5 seconds.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
Washer will pause for 5 seconds.
HOT & COLD VALVE WILL ACTUATE
Hot & cold water valves will actuate for the specified time period.
SHIFTER MOVES TO AGITATION POSITION
If motor does not agitate, go to Manual Test: Gentle or Heavy Agitation, page 9.
MOTOR AGITATES
If motor does not agitate, go to Manual Test: Gentle or Heavy Agitation, page 9.
DRAIN PUMP WILL ACTUATE
If water is not draining, go to Manual Test: Drain, page 9.
WASH
RINSE
SPIN
2
21
4
4 1
42
421
8
8 1
8 2
1
DONE
On
On
On
On
On
On
On
On
On
On
In Seconds
LID LOCK
1
5
5
5
5
5
45
~5-15
10
~30-40
SHIFTER MOVES TO SPIN POSITION
If basket is not turning, go to Manual Test: Low or High Spin, page 9.
MOTOR SPINS
If basket is not turning, go to Manual Test: Low or High Spin, page 9.
LID REMAINS LOCKED UNTIL WASHER SENSES A STOPPED BASKET
Basket must stop spinning (0 RPM) before test continues to next phase. Time for basket to stop spinning may vary from 30 seconds up to 2 minutes.
LID WILL UNLOCK AND CYCLE COMPLETES
If lid does not unlock, go to Manual Test: Lid Lock, page 9.
PAGE 8
8 2 1
84
84 1
842
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
On
On
On
~5-15
10
~30-45
1
~3 min
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
MANUAL TEST MODE — See page 4 to access Manual Test Mode. = ON
Pressing the START button will activate/deactivate each output. When the output is activated, the corresponding Status LEDs will flash. IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed and locked to perform SPIN & AGITATE tests.
OUTPUT
Output Details
NOTE: Outputs will time-out after 5 minutes.
LID LOCK
Lock and unlock the lid. NOTES: When lock is enabled, the “Lid Lock” LED will turn ON. Will only lock when lid is closed. Will only unlock when basket RPM is 0. If lid is not closed, washer will flash status LEDs on and off.
• If lid does not lock or unlock, go to TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
COLD VALVE
Turns ON and turns OFF cold water valve.
• If valve does not turn on, go to TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
HOT VALVE
Turns ON and turns OFF hot water valve.
• If valve does not turn on, go to TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.
STATUS LEDs
WASH
RINSE
SPIN
1
2
2
1
DONE
LID LOCK
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.
DRAIN
Turns ON and turns OFF the drain pump.
• If pump does not turn on, go to TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT
If selected, status LEDs will flash on and off.
LOW SPIN – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Spins basket from 0 to 500 RPM. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.
IMPORTANT: To activate Low Spin, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not closed, status LEDs will flash on and off. IMPORTANT: Water in tub must be drained before test.
• If motor does not spin, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.
HIGH SPIN – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Spins basket from 0 to maximum RPM. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.
IMPORTANT: To activate High Spin, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not closed, status LEDs will flash on and off. IMPORTANT: Water in tub must be drained before test.
• If motor does not spin, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.
GENTLE AGITATION – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked.
Shifts from idle motor to gentle CW/CCW agitation. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition. IMPORTANT: To activate Gentle Agitation, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not
closed, status LEDs will flash on and off.
• If motor does not agitate, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.
HEAVY AGITATION – To perform test, lid must be closed and locked. Shifts from idle motor to heavy CW/CCW agitation. NOTE: Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition.
IMPORTANT: To activate Heavy Agitation, RPM must read “0” and lid must be closed with lid lock enabled. If lid is not
closed, status LEDs will flash on and off.
• If motor does not agitate, go to TEST #3a & 3b: Drive System (Shifter & Motor), pages 13 & 14.
4
1
4
2
4
2 1
4
8
8 On
8 On
8 2 1
8 4
1
2
On
On
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
PAGE 9
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE NOTE: Always check for error codes first (pgs. 6–7).
Some tests will require accessing components. See Figures 7 & 8, page 19, for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting procedures, refer to “Troubleshooting Tests” beginning on page 12.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
WON’T POWER UP
•No operation
• No Status LEDs
WON’T START CYCLE
No response when
Start Button is pressed.
UI WON’T ACCEPT SELECTIONS
WON’T FILL
OVERFILLS
WON’T AGITATE
WON’T SPIN
No power to washer.
Connection problem between AC plug and main control. Main control not properly installed in console. Main control problem.
Lid lock mechanism not functioning.
User Interface problem. Main control problem.
User Interface problem. Main control problem.
No water supplied to washer. Plugged filter/screen. Drain hose installation.
Valve problem. Main control problem.
Pressure hose. Valve problem. Washer requires calibration. Pressure switch or onboard transducer. Main control problem.
Water covering impeller? Is lid lock showing open during the cycle?
Drive belt. Harness connections.
Shifter problem.
Motor problem.
Tachometer problem. No tub movement or tub speed out of normal
Main control problem. Is lid lock showing open during
the cycle? Drive belt. Harness connections.
Shifter problem. Motor problem. Tachometer problem. No tub movement or tub speed out of normal
Main control problem.
Check power at outlet, check circuit breakers, fuses, or junction box connections.
Check the AC power cord for continuity. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators,
page 16. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
1. Lid not closed due to interference.
2. Lock not closed due to interference.
3. See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators,
page 16.
See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators,
page 16. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
1. Check water connections to washer.
2. Verify hot and cold water supply is on. Check for plugged filter or screen in the water valve or hoses. Check for proper drain hose installation.
See TEST #2: Valves, page 13. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
Perform washer calibration on page 4.
See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17. See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
Verify that drive belt is not damaged. Check harness connections between main control and drive system. See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13. See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.
range (obstruction/belt/motor).
See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12. See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
Verify that drive belt is not damaged. Check harness connections between main control and drive system.
See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13. See TEST #3b: Drive System–Motor, page 14.
range (obstruction/belt/motor). See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
CHECKS & TESTS
PAGE 10
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)
Some tests will require accessing components. See Figures 7 & 8, page 19, for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting procedures, refer to “Troubleshooting Tests” beginning on page 12.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
INCORRECT WATER TEMPERATURE
WON’T DRAIN
CYCLE TIME LONGER THAN EXPECTED
POOR WASH PERFORMANCE
Please reference Use & Care Guide
Water hose installation. Temperature thermistor.
Valve problem. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13. Main control problem.
Drain hose installation.
Plugged drain hose. Obstructions to drain pump.
Harness connections.
Drain pump. Main control problem.
Oversuds. 1. Verify use of HE detergent.
Off balance. 1. Load is off balance.
Draining slowly.Check for pump or drain hose obstructions. Water pressure drop.Results in longer Fill time. Friction or drag on drive. Check motor and bearings; check for
Weak suspension. Basket should not bounce up and down Oversuds. Load is tangling. Incorrect water level.
Clothes wet after cycle is complete (not water saturated, but very damp).
Load not rinsed.
Not cleaning clothes.
Fabric damage.
Wrong option or cycle selection.
Make sure inlet hoses are connected properly. See TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12. Check for proper drain hose installation.
Make sure it is not inserted more than 4.5" (113mm). Check drain hose for obstructions. Check tub sump under agitator plate & basket for obstructions. Check harness connections between main control and drain pump.
See TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
2. Excessive detergent usage.
2. Balance ring water leak.
clothes between tub and basket.
more than once when pushed.
1. Verify use of HE detergent.
2. Excessive detergent usage.
1. Washer not loaded properly.
2. Perform washer calibration on page 4.
1. Perform washer calibration on page 4.
2. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
3. See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
1. Overloaded washer.
2. Oversuds (see above).
3. Items caught in tub sump.
4. Weak suspension.
5. Shifter not moving into position
6. Cold/Rinse water > 105°F.
7. See TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
1. Check proper water supply.
2. Not using HE detergent.
3. Washer not loaded properly.
4. Shifter not moving into position
5. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
1. Washer not loaded properly.
2. Not using HE detergent.
3. Not using correct cycle.
4. Shifter not moving into position
1. Washer overloaded.
2. Bleach added incorrectly.
3. Sharp items in tub. Refer customer to “Use & Care Guide”.
CHECKS & TESTS
(see TEST #3a).
(see TEST #3a).
(see TEST #3a).
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
PAGE 11
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
J4-Pressure Switch *
J2-Shifter
J11-Rotary Encoders
TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS
If 120VAC is present, go to step 6. If 120VAC is not present, check the AC
TEST #1: Main Control
This test checks for incoming and outgoing supplies to and from the main control. This test assumes that proper voltage is present at the outlet.
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Remove console to access main control.
3. Verify that ALL connectors are inserted
all the way into the main control.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black
probe to J7-3 (Neutral) and red probe to J7-1 (L1).
power cord for continuity (See Figures 9 or 10).
6. Is the “Diagnostic LED” ON or OFF? (See Figure 3 below for LED location.)
ON: (+5VDC present) continue to step 7. OFF: (+5VDC missing) proceed to step 8.
7. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC).
If +13VDC is present, main control
supplies are good.
If +13VDC is not present, go to step 8.
Main Control Board Connectors and Pinouts (Figure 3)
J2
J2-5 OPEN J2-4 BLK +13VDC J2-3 GRY -5VDC (CIRCUIT GND) J2-2 PNK RPM INPUT
SHIFTER VALVES TEMP
J2-1 BLU SHIFTER POSITION INPUT
J3
J3-10 BLK TEMP THERMISTOR INPUT (HYBRID) J3-9 BLK TEMP THERMISTOR GND (HYBRID) J3-8 OPEN J3-7 OPEN J3-6 OPEN J3-5 BLU COLD VALVE (L1) J3-4 RED HOT VALVE (L1) J3-3 OPEN J3-2 OPEN
J3-1 WHT NEUTRAL
J4
J4-3 BLU PRESS SWITCH INPUT J4-2 OPEN
SW
PRESS
J4-1 BLU -5VDC (CIRCUIT GND)
J7
J7-3 BLK NEUTRAL J7-2 GRN CHASSIS GROUND
CORD
J7-1 BLK L1
POWER
J10
ROTARY ENCODERSROTARY ENCODERS
J11
J15
LID LOCK
J16
DRAIN MOTOR
J10-6 RED ROW 4 J10-5 RED ROW 5 J10-4 RED COLUMN 0 J10-3 RED COLUMN 1 J10-2 RED COLUMN 2 J10-1 RED COLUMN 3
J11-6 BLK ROW 2 J11-5 BLK ROW 3 J11-4 BLK COLUMN 0 J11-3 BLK COLUMN 1 J11-2 BLK COLUMN 2 J11-1 BLK COLUMN 3
J15-4 RED LOCK SWITCH J15-3 WHT NEUTRAL J15-2 BLU LID SWITCH INPUT J15-1 YEL LOCK SWITCH SOLENOID (L1)
J16-7 ORN MOTOR CCW WINDING (L1) J16-6 RED MOTOR CW WINDING (L1) J16-5 WHT MOTOR (NEUTRAL) J16-4 OPEN J16-3 LT BLU DRAIN PUMP MOTOR (L1) J16-2
W/ BLU
J16-1 BRN SHIFTER MOTOR (L1)
SHIFTER MOTOR (NEUTRAL)
Diagnostic
LED
J7-Power
Cord
= represents pin-1
PAGE 12
J7
J16-PSC Motor/Drain
J4
J2
J11
J10
J10-Rotary Encoders *
J3-Temperature
J16
J15
J3
J15-Lid Lock
Sensor/Valves
* Not available on all models
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
tuoniPevlaV
Component J16 Connector Pinout
8. Check if shifter assembly is affecting the main control DC supplies.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power. b. Remove connector J2 from main control. c. Plug in washer or reconnect power. d. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Perform the +13VDC
check inside header J2 on the board – do not short pins together.
If one or more DC voltages are still missing,
go to step 9.
If the DC voltages return, check for short in
harness between main control and shifter assy.
If harness and connections are good,
replace shifter assembly.
9. Main Control has malfunctioned. a. Unplug washer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate
washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
TEST #2: Valves
This test checks the electrical connections to the valves, and the valves themselves.
1. Check the relays and electrical connections to the valves by performing the Cold and Hot Valve tests under Manual Test Mode on page 9. Each test activates and deactivates the selected valve. The following steps assume one (or more) valve(s) did not turn on.
2. For the valve(s) in question check the individual solenoid valves:
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power. b. Remove console to access main control. c. Remove connector J3 from main control.
Refer to main control diagram on page 12.
d. Check harness connection to solenoid valves.
3. Check resistance of the valve coils across
the following J3 connector pinouts:
4 & 1 ,3JevlaV toH 5 & 1 ,3JevlaV dloC
Resistance should be 890–1.3k .
If resistance readings are tens of ohms
outside of range, replace the valve assembly.
If resistance readings are within range,
replace main control and calibrate washer. Perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter
This test checks connections, shifter motor, switch, and optical sensor. NOTE: Refer to Figure 4, “Shifter Assembly Strip Circuit” on page 14 for tests and measurements. IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before accessing bottom of washer.
Functional Check:
1. Check the shifter and electrical connections
by performing both the Spin AND Agitate test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
If basket turns freely, go to step 4.If basket does not turn freely, determine what
is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.
4. Remove console to access main control.
5. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connectors
are inserted all the way into the main control.
If visual checks pass, go to step 6.If connectors are not inserted properly,
reconnect J2 and J16 and repeat step 1.
Shifter Motor:
6. Remove connector J16 from main control.
With an ohmmeter, verify resistance of the shifter motor across the following J16 connector pinouts:
Shifter Motor J16, 1 & 2
Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k .
If values are correct, reconnect J16 and
proceed to step 7.
If values are open or out of range,
go to step 13.
7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the
black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.
IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.
NOTE: It will take 4–15 seconds for the shifter to change states.
If 120VAC is present, go to step 9. If 120VAC is not present, go to step 17.
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
PAGE 13
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
Shifter to Main Control & Drain Pum
p
Shifter Switch:
9. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the
black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-1 (Shifter Switch). In manual test mode, switch between Spin and Agitate modes. Voltage should toggle between 0 and +5VDC.
SPIN = +5 VDC AGITATE = 0 VDC
If voltage corresponds to setting, go to step 10. If voltage does not switch, go to step 12.
Optical Sensor:
10. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the
black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC).
If +13VDC is present, go to step 11. If +13VDC is not present, go to step 17.
11. Activate Tachometer Verification Mode from the Service Diagnostic Test Modes (see page 5). Slowly turn the basket by hand. The 4 status LEDs should illuminate one at a time to represent basket RPM.
If the tachometer is not verified, go to step 12. If the tachometer is verified, go to step 17.
12. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
13. Tilt washer back to access the bottom
of the washer and the drive motor area.
14. Visually check the electrical connections to the shifter.
If visual check passes, go to step 15. If connections are loose, reconnect the
electrical connections and repeat step 1.
15. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the shifter and main control using the pinouts in the following chart.
If there is continuity, go to step 16. If there is no continuity, replace the lower
washer harness and repeat step 1.
L1
Main Control
K8
J7-1
Shifter Motor Relay
Circuit Ground
+13VDC
Figure 4 - Shifter Assembly Strip Circuit (Shifter Switch: Open = SPIN, Closed = AGITATE)
J16-1
J2-3 J2-4
Shifter Connector Pin-2 to Main Control J16-2 Shifter Connector Pin-3 to Main Control J16-1 Shifter Connector Pin-4 to Main Control J2-4 Shifter Connector Pin-5 to Main Control J2-3 Shifter Connector Pin-6 to Main Control J2-2 Shifter Connector Pin-7 to Main Control J2-1
16. Replace the shifter assembly. a. Unplug washer or disconnect power. b. Replace shifter assembly. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate
washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
17. If the preceding steps did not correct the problem, replace the main control.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power. b. Replace the main control. c. Reassemble all parts and panels. d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate
washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.
TEST #3b: Drive System – Motor
This test checks the motor, motor windings, wiring, and start capacitor.
NOTE: Refer to Figure 5, “PSC Motor Strip Circuit” on page 15 for tests and measurements.
IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before accessing bottom of washer.
1. Check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Gentle or Heavy Agitation test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what
is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.
4. Remove console to access main control.
5. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connectors
are inserted all the way into the main control.
Shifter Assy
Motor Resistance 2k to 3.5k ohms
Pin 3
Shifter Switch
Pin 5 Pin 4
120VAC
Motor
Optical Sensor
Pin 2
Pin 6
Main Control
J16-2
J2-1Pin 7
J2-2
Shifter Position
Input
RPM Input
N
J7-3
PAGE 14
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY
Motor Winding J16 Pinout
Size
Resistance
Motor Winding Motor Pinout
Size
Resistance
If visual checks pass, go to step 6.If connectors are not inserted properly,
reconnect J2 and J16 and repeat step 1.
6. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Run the Gentle Agitation test under Manual Test Mode on page 9.
7. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J16-5 (N) and red probe to J16-6 (CW Winding).
If 120VAC is cycling ON during CW rotation,
go to step 8.
If 120VAC is not present, go to Test #1:
Main Control, page 12.
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J16-5 (N), red probe to J16-7 (CCW Winding).
If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW
rotation, go to step 9.
If 120VAC is not present, go to Test #1:
Main Control, page 12.
9. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
10. Remove connector J16 from main control.
With an ohmmeter, check resistance of motor windings across the following J16 connector pinouts:
NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector knob and 4 rotary switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP.
1/4 HP 1/3 HP
CW Winding J16, 5 & 6
CCW Winding J16, 5 & 7
CW Winding J16, 5 & 6
CCW Winding J16, 5 & 7
5 to 9.5 Ω 5 to 9.5 Ω
3.5 to 6 Ω
3.5 to 6 Ω
If values are open or out of range, go to step 11. If values are correct, go to step 15.
11. Tilt washer back to access drive system.
12. Visually check the mounting bracket and
electrical connections to the motor and shifter.
If visual check passes, go to step 13. If connections are loose, reconnect the
electrical connections, reassemble motor cover, and repeat step 1.
13. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the main control, motor, and run capacitor using the following test points.
Motor Harness Check
Motor Connector Pin-1 to Chassis Ground Motor Connector Pin-3 to Main Control J16-7 Motor Connector Pin-3 to Run Capacitor Pin-3 Motor Connector Pin-6 to Main Control J16-6 Motor Connector Pin-6 to Run Capacitor Pin-1 Motor Connector Pin-9 to Main Control J16-5
If there is continuity, go to step 14. If there is no continuity, replace the lower
machine harness and repeat step 1.
14. With an ohmmeter, check resistance of motor windings at the following motor connections.
NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector knob and 4 rotary switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP.
1/4 HP 1/3 HP
CW Winding Pins 6 & 9
CCW Winding Pins 3 & 9
CW Winding Pins 6 & 9
CCW Winding Pins 3 & 9
5 to 9.5 Ω 5 to 9.5 Ω
3.5 to 6 Ω
3.5 to 6 Ω
If values are open or out of range, replace
motor.
If values are correct, go to step 15.
15. Test Motor Run Capacitor. NOTE: A faulty capacitor may cause the motor to “hum”, not start, or turn slowly.
a. Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 resistor to the two terminals.
b. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor terminals.
c. With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals and note reading.
If a steady increase in resistance is noted,
continue to step 16.
L1
J7-1
DO NOT REMOVE OR DESTROY
Main Control
J16-6
J16-7
Run Cap
1
Wire Loop
3
CW TRIAC
CCW TRIAC
* 1/3 HP Motor – Each Winding 3.5 to 6 ohms/ * 1/4 HP Motor – Each Winding 5 to 9.5 ohms
Inductive
PSC Motor
Pin 6
CCW Winding*
Pin 3
CW Winding*
Main Control Main Control
Pin 9
Pin 1
J15-4J16-5
Lock Switch
Figure 5 - PSC Motor Strip Circuit (shown in ON position)
J15-3
N
J7-3
PAGE 15
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