volkswagen Jetta (1985) Unofficial workshop manual

Page 1

VW Golf & Jetta

Service and Repair Manual

Models covered

VW Golf & Jetta Mk 2 models with petrol engines, including fuel injection, catalytic converter, Formel E, 16-valve and special/limited edition models 1043 cc, 1272 cc, 1595 cc & 1781 cc

Covers mechanical features of Van. Does not cover Convertible, Rallye, Caddy, diesel engine, 4 -wheel drive, Mk 1 models or new Golf range introduced in February 1992

I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 282 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset

BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(1081 - 344 - 1AA11)

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

Page 2

LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF OR JETTA

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•12 Screen/headlamp washer fluid level Page 0•13 Wiper blades Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Electrical systems Page 0•15

Lubricants and fluids Page 0•16 Capacities and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Servicing specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule:

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985 Page 1•5

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985 Page 1•6 Maintenance - component location Page 1•7 Maintenance procedures Page 1•10

Page 3

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - pre August 1985 Page 2A•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985 Page 2B•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve Page 2C•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.8 litre 16 valve Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 8 valve engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 16 valve engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Mono Jetronic fuel injection Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digijet fuel injection Page 4E•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digifant fuel injection Page 4F•1 Ignition system - contact breaker type Page 5A•1 Ignition system - transistorised type Page 5B•1 Ignition system - fully electronic type Page 5C•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5D•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•17

Contents

Page 4

The Mk. II Volkswagen Golf and Jetta range of models was introduced in March 1984, revised body and trim features being the main visual difference to the earlier range of models.

The engine/transmission is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, drive being to the front wheels. Detailed improvements have been made throughout the years of manufacture to improve power output and economy. These include the introduction of hydraulic

bucket tappets, the Digifant, Digijet and Mono-Jetronic fuel injection systems, the 16-valve engine fitted to the GTi variant, the fully electronic ignition system (FEI), the 085 5-speed gearbox and several other minor modifications and revisions.

As with earlier models the new range is proving popular, giving economy, reliability, comfort and, if previous models can be used as a yardstick, long life.

0•4 Introduction

Your Volkswagen Golf and Jetta Manual

The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data and also to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

The VW Golf & Jetta Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Ian Coomber

Cristopher Rogers

Sub-editors Carole Turk

Sophie Yar Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell

Steve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

VW Golf

VW Jetta

Page 5

Safety first! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

Page 6

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.

Check that the HT lead connections at the distributor are clean and make sure they are secure by pushing them onto

the cap.

Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs are secure by pushing them onto the plugs.

Check that the LT lead connections are clean and secure.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not connected properly.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Page 7

Roadside repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

Page 8

0•8 Roadside repairs

The spare wheels and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Release the retaining strap and lift out the jack and

tools from the centre of the wheel.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Locate the jack below the reinforced point on the sill and on firm ground. Turn the jack handle to raise the car until the

wheel is clear of the ground.

Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in

the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten them using the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.

Once the car is on the ground, tighten the wheel bolts securely in a diagonal pattern

using the wheelbrace. At the earliest possible opportunity, have the wheel bolts slackened and then tightened to the correct torque wrench setting.

Remove the wheel trim/hub cap from the

wheel (some trims have retaining screws

which must be undone first). Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.

Unscrew the retaining nut and lift the wheel out of the vehicle.

1 2 3

4 5 6

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Page 9

Roadside repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Page 10

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

All models

(typical)

Engine oil level

dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion

tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid

reservoir

Screen washer fluid

reservoir

Battery

Underbonnet check points

Page 11

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located at the right-hand end of the engine (see “Underbonnet check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the

engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the side of the expansion tank. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the

expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.

Add the recommended mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion

tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

2 3

Page 12

0•12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid level

Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to

damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The fluid reservoir is mounted next to the battery in the engine compartment.

“MAX” and “MIN” level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the specified fluid.

After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter into the reservoir.

Page 13

Weekly checks 0•13

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen/headlamp washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the

bottle.

The reservoir for the windscreen and headlamp washer systems is located on the

left-hand side of the engine compartment, forward of the suspension turret. The rear screen washer system reservoir is located on the right-hand side rear corner of the luggage compartment. Later systems have a single reservoir located in the engine compartment.

Check the operation of both screen and headlamp washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area.

a = 345 mm b = 420 mm c = 320 mm d = 300 mm

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it

locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, depress the retaining tab and slide the

blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

Page 14

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Page 15

Weekly checks 0•15

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections.

You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

Electrical systems

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed.

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located under the facia panel, on the right-hand side, behind a removable cover.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

Page 16

0•16 Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant or fluid

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50

Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors.

Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant. Mixture 50% by volume

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP

Duckhams Hypoid 90S or Hypoid 75W/90S

Brake hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 11 6 DOT 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Power steering system:

pre-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

post-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VW oil G 002 000

No Duckhams equivalent

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine’s performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.

• Cooling hot spots

Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engine

Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, and on the road.

Engine oil types

Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars. Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.

For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Page 17

Capacities and tyre pressures 0•17

Component or system Capacity

Engine:

1.05 & 1.3 litre:

rocker-finger type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres with filter change

2.5 litres without filter change

hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

1.6 & 1.8 litre:

pre-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

post-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres with filter change

3.5 litres without filter change

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres

Manual gearbox:

084 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 litres

085 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

020 4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres

020 5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litres from dry

3.0 litres service drain & fill

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Included in gearbox capacity

Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 litre

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.0 litres

Tyre pressures (tyres cold)

Capacities

Front Rear

1.05 & 1.3 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

1.6 & 1.8 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

Page 18

0•18

Notes

Page 19

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor

drivebelt(s) check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Antifreeze concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Automatic transmission and final drive fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Brake pad and rear shoe lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Clutch operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Contact breaker point renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Contact breaker point check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

CV joint and boot check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Fluid leakage and engine electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Fuel and brake line, hose and union check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Fuel system control linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Hinge and catch lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Light, direction indicator and horn check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Lock, hinge and latch mechanism check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Slow running adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Steering gear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Sunroof guide rails cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Vehicle underbody check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 20

1•2 Servicing specifications

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Lubricants, fluids and capacities Refer to the end of “Weekly checks” Engine

Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101/C160

Valve clearances

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines - pre August 1985: Warm:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.30 mm

Cold:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm

Hydraulic tappet free travel

1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (Maximum travel) . . 0.1 mm

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 % antifreeze (by volume) with water

Air conditioning system

Compressor drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 to 10.0 mm deflection on longest run

Fuel system

Air filter element types

Carburettor engines:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W101

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W102

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U508

Fuel-injected engines:

K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U502

All other systems:

1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U506

1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U502

1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U572

Fuel filter element types

Carburettor engines (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L104

Fuel-injected engines:

K-Jetronic on 16 valve engine:

1.8 litre Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L203

1.8 litre Jetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206

All other systems:

1.8 litre GTi ( engine code RP) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L206

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204*

* New copper washers must be used and these are not supplied with the filter

Idle speed

1.05 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

1.3 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

1.6 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 to 800 rpm

1.8 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine:

8 valve:

Pre Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

From Sept. 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 to 1000 rpm

Air conditioned models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 to 1000 rpm

16 valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1000 rpm

Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 950 rpm (not adjustable)

Digijet fuel-injected engine:

Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 880 to 980 rpm

Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

Page 21

CO content (%)

1.05 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 31 PIC-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Pierburg/Solex 1B3 and Weber 32 TLA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5

1.3 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5

1.6 litre carburettor engines:

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code EZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Pierburg/Solex 2E2 - engine code RF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5

1.8 litre carburettor engines (Pierburg/Solex 2E2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

K-Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Mono Jetronic fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 to 1.2

Digijet fuel-injected engine:

Up to July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 1.1

July 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 1.5

Digifant fuel-injected engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5

Ignition system

Firing order (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

Contact breaker system

Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type Electrode gap

1.05, 1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC 0.8 mm or 0.7 mm

* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

HT lead type:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set

1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set

Distributor:

Contact breaker gap (initial setting only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 mm

Dwell angle (1.05, 1.3 and 1.6 litre):

Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)

Ignition timing (at idle):

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC

1.6 and 1.8 litre (carburettor engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC

1.8 litre (fuel injection engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC

Transistorised system

Spark plugs*: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Type Electrode gap

pre Sept. 1985:

1.05, 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 litre (pre July 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7YCC or N7YC 0.8 mm or 0.7 mm

from Sept. 1985:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC 0.8 mm

1.6 litre:

Coil with green sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9BYC4 or N9YCC 1.0 mm

Coil with grey sticker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N9YCC 0.8 mm

1.8 litre:

Except 16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion N7BYC or N7YCC 0.8 mm

16V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C6BYC or C6YCC 0.8 mm

* Spark plug types and electrode gaps are recommended by Champion Spark Plug. If other types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

HT lead type:

1.05 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set

1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 litre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07 boxed set

Distributor:

Dwell angle (1.05,1.3 and 1.6 litre):

Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 to 50° (50 to 56%)

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 to 58° (47 to 64%)

Ignition timing:

1.3 litre (code NZ) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6° BTDC at 750 to 850 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

1.6 litre (code RF) - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 700 to 800 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

1.8 litre:

Code PB and PF - Digifant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 2000 to 2500 rpm, with temperature sender disconnected

Code GU and RH - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 19° BTDC at 675 to 825 rpm, with vacuum hose connected

Code RP - TCI-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 950 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected

Fully electronic system

All Specifications as for Transistorised System except for:

Ignition timing:

1.8 litre 16 valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7° BTDC at 950 to 1050 rpm, with vacuum hose connected

Servicing specifications 1•3

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 22

Charging system

Alternator drivebelt tension

Initial adjustment for new drivebelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at point midway between

alternator and crankshaft pulleys

Adjustment after 500 miles (750 km) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm deflection under finger pressure at same point

Models after early 1985 fitted with rack type adjustment link . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 Nm (6 to 7 Ibf ft) torque loading on adjuster bolt

Clutch

Free play at clutch pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 to 20 mm

Braking system

Pad thickness

Front disc brakes:

New - excluding backplate:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 mm

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.0 mm

1.8 litre with ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm

Minimum - including backplate:

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Rear disc brakes:

New - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 mm

Minimum - including backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Shoe lining thickness

Rear drum brakes:

Minimum - including shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Minimum - excluding shoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 mm

Steering

Power steering pump drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm deflection under firm finger pressure at point midway

between pump and crankshaft pulleys

Tyre pressures Refer to the end of “Weekly checks” Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Ignition system

Contact breaker system:

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Distributor clamp bolt:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Transistorised and fully electronic systems:

Spark plugs:

1.05 and 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

1.6 and 1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Charging system

Alternator mounting/pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Alternator adjuster link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Manual gearbox

Oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Automatic transmission

Oil pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Oil strainer (filter) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2

Steering

Power steering pump/swivel bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Power steering pump tensioner/bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Roadwheels

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Body fittings

Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

1•4 Servicing specifications

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 23

The maintenance intervals in this Manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, then more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•5

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 32) mm Renew fuel filter (Section 33)

Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km)

mm Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid

(Section 35)

Every 2 years

mm Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)

mm Renew timing belt (Section 37)

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months

mm Check valve clearances (Section 12) mm Check alternator, power steering pump and air

conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and condition (Section 13)

mm Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14) mm Renew spark plugs (Section 15) mm Renew and adjust contact breaker points (Section 16) mm Check ignition timing (Section 17) mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check exhaust system (Section 19) mm Adjust slow running (Section 20) mm Check clutch operation (Section 21) mm Check gearbox oil level (Section 22) mm Check automatic transmission fluid level (Section 23) mm Check CV joints and boots (Section 24) mm Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions

(Section 25)

mm Check brake pads and rear shoe linings (Section 26) mm Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27) mm Check steering gear (Section 28) mm Check suspension (Section 29) mm Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30) mm Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months

mm Check contact breaker points (Section 11)

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

mm Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms

(Section 3)

mm Check seat belts (Section 4) mm Check brakes (Section 5) mm Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical

system security (Section 6)

mm Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7) mm Check air conditioning system (Section 8) mm Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of lights, direction indicators and

horns (Section 10)

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm see “Weekly checks”

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985

Page 24

1•6 Maintenance schedule

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm See “Weekly checks”

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) - if completing more than 10 000 miles (15 000 km) per annum

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check brake pad linings (Section 26)

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

mm Check lock, hinge and latch mechanisms

(Section 3)

mm Check seat belts (Section 4) mm Check brakes (Section 5) mm Check for fluid leakage and engine electrical

system security (Section 6)

mm Check battery electrolyte level (Section 7) mm Check air conditioning system (Section 8) mm Check and lubricate fuel system control linkage

(Section 9)

mm Check operation of lights, direction indicators and

horns (Section 10)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)

mm Check alternator, power steering pump and air

conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) adjustment and condition (Section 13)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 15) mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 32) mm Renew fuel filter (Section 33) mm Clean and lubricate sunroof guide rails (Section 34) mm Renew automatic transmission and final drive fluid

(Section 35)

Every 12 months

mm Check antifreeze concentration (Section 14) mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 18) mm Check exhaust system (Section 19) mm Check idling speed and mixture (Section 20) mm Check clutch operation (Section 21) mm Check automatic transmission fluid level

(Section 23)

mm Check CV joints and boots (Section 24) mm Check fuel and brake lines, hoses and unions

(Section 25)

mm Check brake pads and rear shoe linings

(Section 26)

mm Check headlight beam alignment (Section 27) mm Check steering gear (Section 28) mm Check suspension (Section 29) mm Lubricate hinges and catches (Section 30) mm Check vehicle underbody (Section 31)

Every 2 years

mm Renew brake fluid (Section 36)

Every 40 000 miles (160 000 km)

mm Renew timing belt (Section 37)

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985

Page 25

Maintenance - component location 1•7

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Underbonnet view – 1.3 litre model (air cleaner removed)

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Fuel line filter 3 Brake master cylinder

reservoir 4 Carburettor 5 Ignition coil 6 Cooling system expansion

tank 7 Windscreen/headlight

washer reservoir 8 Ignition distributor 9 Battery 10Cooling fan 11Engine oil filler cap

Underbonnet view – fuel injection model

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Compressor (air

conditioning) 3 Fuel distributor 4 Alternator 5 Engine oil filler cap 6 Brake master cylinder

reservoir 7 Throttle housing 8 Ignition coil 9 Cooling system expansion

tank 10Windscreen/headlamp

washer reservoir 11Battery 12Clutch cable 13Cooling fan 14Ignition distributor

Page 26

1•8 Maintenance - component location

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Front underbody view - 1.3 litre model

1 Alternator 2 Oil filter 3 Driveshaft 4 Front mounting 5 Cooling system bottom

hose 6 Gearbox 7 Track control arm 8 Tie-rod 9 Exhaust 10Engine sump

Front underbody view - fuel injected model

1 Driveshaft 2 Front mounting 3 Starter motor 4 Gearbox 5 Track control arm 6 Tie-rod 7 Anti-roll bar 8 Exhaust system 9 Engine sump

Page 27

Maintenance - component location 1•9

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Rear underbody view - 1.3 litre model

1 Exhaust 2 Fuel tank 3 Rear shock absorber lower

mounting 4 Axle beam 5 Handbrake cable (right-

hand) 6 Handbrake cable (left-hand) 7 Rear drum brake

Rear underbody view - fuel injected model

1 Exhaust 2 Fuel tank 3 Rear shock absorber lower

mounting 4 Axle beam 5 Fuel pump and associated

fittings 6 Brake pressure regulator 7 Rear disc brake

Page 28

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this Manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted) h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable f) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

3 Lock, hinge and latch

mechanism check

Check the security and operation of all

hinges, latches and locks.

Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

4 Seat belt check

1 Check the webbing of each belt for signs of fraying, cuts or other damage, pulling the belt out to its full extent to check its entire length. Check the operation of the buckles by fitting the belt tongue plate and pulling hard to ensure that it remains locked, then check the retractor mechanism (inertia reel only) by pulling out the belt to the halfway point and jerking hard. The mechanism must lock immediately to prevent any further unreeling but must allow free movement during normal driving.

2 Ensure that all belt mounting bolts are securely tightened. Note that the bolts are shouldered so that the belt anchor points are free to rotate. 3 If there is any sign of damage, or any doubt about a belt’s condition, it must be renewed. If the vehicle has been involved in a collision any belts in use at the time must be renewed as a matter of course and all other belts should be checked carefully. 4 Use only warm water and non-detergent soap to clean the belts. Never use any

chemical cleaners, strong detergents, dyes or bleaches. Keep the belts fully extended until they have dried naturally; do not apply heat to dry them.

5 Brake check

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 Check the brake warning device for correct operation by switching the ignition on and releasing the handbrake. Now press the contact on the reservoir filler cap down and get an assistant to check that the handbrake and dual circuit warning lamp light up (see illustration).

1•10 Maintenance procedures

5.4 Check brake fluid level warning device

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 1000 miles (1500 km) or monthly

Page 29

6 Fluid leakage and engine

electrical system check

1 Open the bonnet and inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of coolant or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal. 2 Carefully check the condition and security of all under bonnet coolant, fuel, power steering and brake pipes and hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips (see

Haynes Hint).

3 Check the condition of all exposed wiring

harnesses. Ensure that all cable-ties are in place and in good condition. Ties which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the wiring which could cause serious problems in the future. 4 Wipe away any dirt which has accumulated on the outside of the alternator and check that its cable connector is pushed firmly onto its terminals. 5 Clean the ignition system HT and LT leads by wiping along their length with a fuelmoistened cloth. Inspect each lead for damage and renew if defective in any way. Ensure that all lead connections are secure and where applicable, protected (see

illustration). 6 Check that all HT and LT leads are correctly

routed and clear of moving or hot engine components. 7 Any corroded HT or LT lead connection

must be cleaned. A smear of petroleum jelly (not grease) applied to the cleaned connection will help to prevent further corrosion. 8 Check the transmission for obvious oil leaks and investigate and rectify any problems found. 9 Where accessible, inspect the fuel filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.

7 Battery electrolyte level

check

1 A “maintenance-free” (sealed for life) battery is standard equipment on all vehicles covered by this Manual. Although this type of battery has many advantages over the older refillable type and should never require the addition of distilled water, it should still be routinely checked. The electrolyte level can be seen through the battery’s translucent case and must be between the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM level marks. Although it should not alter in normal use, if the level has lowered (for example, due to electrolyte having boiled away as a result of overcharging) it is permissible to gently prise up the cell cover(s) and to top-up the level. 2 If a conventional battery has been fitted as a replacement, the electrolyte level of each cell should be checked and, if necessary, topped up until the separators are just

covered. On some batteries the case is translucent and incorporates MINIMUM and MAXIMUM level marks. The check should be made more often if the vehicle is operated in high ambient temperature conditions. 3 Top-up the electrolyte level using distilled or de-ionised water (see illustrations).

8 Air conditioning system

check

During winter months, operate the air conditioner for a few minutes each week to keep the system in good order.

Check that the condenser is free of dirt and insects. If necessary, clean it either by rinsing with a cold water hose or by blowing it clean with an air hose. Use a soft bristle brush to assist removal of dirt jammed in the condenser fins.

9 Fuel system control linkage

check

Check all parts of the fuel system control linkage for free movement throughout its complete operating range.

Clean all linkage joints and then lubricate with a light machine oil.

10 Light, direction indicator and

horn check

Check that the horn and all vehicle lights are functioning correctly. Renew any defective bulbs.

The headlights and (where applicable) the foglights should be in correct alignment.

Every 1000 miles or monthly 1•11

6.5 Ensure all HT lead connections are secure

7.3a Remove battery filler caps . . . 7.3b . . . and top up electrolyte level using distilled or de-ionised water

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

If regular topping-up becomes necessary and the battery case is not fractured,

the battery is being overcharged and the voltage regulator and/or alternator will have to be checked.

Page 30

11 Contact breaker point check

1 Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal block on the screening ring, then the earth strap spade connector on the distributor body

(see illustration). 2 Release the two retaining clips and withdraw

the distributor cap, complete with screen ring,

from the distributor (see illustration). 3 Pull off the rotor arm and remove the dust cover (see illustration). 4 Using a screwdriver, prise open the points and inspect the condition of their faces (see illustration). If they are pitted and discoloured, remove them and dress them using emery tape or a grindstone whilst ensuring that their surfaces are flat and parallel. If the points are worn excessively, renew them. If the points are in good condition, then check their adjustment.

12 Valve clearance check

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

1 Run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and remove the valve cover. 2 Turn the engine until both cam peaks for No 1 cylinder are pointing upwards. 3 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness (specified “Warm” clearance) between the cam and cam follower. If the blade is not a firm sliding fit, proceed as follows: 4 Turn the adjustable ball-stud using an Allen key (see illustration) . The valves from the

timing belt end of the engine are in the following order:

Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust - Inlet -

Exhaust - Inlet - Exhaust

5 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 2 and 3 for the remaining valves. If the engine is rotated in its normal direction, adjust the valves of No 3 cylinder followed by No 4 cylinder and No 2 cylinder. 6 Refit the valve cover, together with a new gasket.

1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve engines

Note: Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208 should be used to remove the valve shims, but alternatives can be used (see Tool Tip) Note: The following procedure applies only to engines fitted with shim bucket tappets - that is, those manufactured before August, 1985

7 Run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. Stop the engine and remove the valve cover. 8 Check each valve clearance in turn by rotating the engine so that the valve to be checked has the cam lobe facing upwards. In this position, the valve in question is fully closed and a feeler blade inserted between the heel of the cam lobe and the valve tappet shim within the tappet bucket will give the clearance present (see illustration).

1•12 Maintenance procedures

12.4 Adjusting a valve clearance -

1.05 and 1.3 litre

12.8 Checking a valve clearance -

1.6 and 1.8 litre

11.1 Disconnect LT lead (A) earth strap (B) and release securing clips (C)

11.2 Withdraw distributor cap and screen ring

11.3 Pull off the rotor arm

11.4 Contact breaker points viewed

through window in bearing plate (arrowed)

- Ducellier

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months

Ideally VW tools 2078 and 10.208 should be used to remove the valve shims, but we managed quite well with these tools; a small electrician’s screwdriver and a C-spanner which was just the right size to push the bucket down without pushing the tappet shim (ie pushing the rim down).

Page 31

9 The engine will turn over more easily if the spark plugs are removed. Do not rotate the engine by turning the camshaft sprocket as this will stretch the timing belt. Use the alternator drivebelt (V-belt) or jack up one front wheel and with the engine in gear rotate the roadwheel. Do not turn the engine with any of the shims removed, otherwise the camshaft may foul the rim at the top of the bucket. 10 Repeat this measurement for all valves in turn and then compare the measurements with those specified (“Warm” clearance). 11 Make a table of the actual clearances and then calculate the error from those specified. Suppose on No 1 exhaust valve, the measured clearance is 0.15 mm. It is 0.3 mm too small so it must be adjusted and a shim 0.3 mm thinner fitted instead of the present one. As the shims are in steps of 0.05 mm variation, the required shim can be selected once the size of the shim at present installed is known. If you have dismantled and reassembled the head, then you know the size etched on the back of the shim but if you do not, then the shim must be removed to find out. 12 With the cam turned to give maximum clearance, the tappet is pushed down against the valve springs while the shim is levered out and removed by the VW tool or a screwdriver. Be careful, because if the spanner slips when the shim is halfway out, the shim will fly out sharply (see illustration). 13 Once all the shim sizes are known, a table may be constructed and the sizes of the new shims required may be calculated. Going back to the example, if the present shim is marked

3.60 then one marked 3.30 is required. Bucket

shims are available in 26 different thicknesses which increase in increments of 0.05 mm, from

3.00 mm to 4.25 mm. 14 As it is unlikely that you will have the required shims readily available, it will be necessary to wait until they have been obtained before the tappets can be adjusted. 15 When inserting the shims, the thickness etching faces should be facing downwards. 16 Once the correct clearances have been achieved, refit the spark plugs and the valve cover.

13 Alternator, power steering

pump and air conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) check

1 Check all drivebelts along their full length for cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. Renew the belt if worn or damaged.

Alternator

Pre 1985

2 Depress the alternator drivebelt firmly with

a finger midway between the alternator and crankshaft pulleys (see illustration). The belt should deflect approximately 5.0 mm. 3 If a new drivebelt has been fitted, then initial

adjustment should give a deflection of 2.0 mm. After a suitable running in period of about 500 miles (750 km), belt adjustment should be rechecked and adjusted to deflect 5.0 mm. 4 To adjust the drivebelt, loosen the nut on the adjusting link and pivot bolt (see illustrations), then lever the alternator away from the cylinder block by using a lever at the pulley end of the alternator, until the belt is tensioned correctly. 5 Tighten the nut and bolt on completion of drivebelt adjustment.

From 1985

6 From early 1985, some models are fitted

with a rack type alternator adjustment link (see illustration). To adjust drivebelt tension, first fully loosen the adjustment locknut and bolt, the link pivot bolt and the alternator pivot bolt, so that the alternator falls to one side under its own weight. 7 Using a socket and torque wrench on the adjustment bolt, apply a torque of 8 to 10 Nm (6 to 7 Ibf ft), then secure the adjustment bolt in the set position by tightening its locknut to 35 Nm (26 Ibf ft). 8 If the special VW tool is being used, then the adjustment bolt can now be tightened. If not, tighten the pivot bolt then remove the socket and immediately tighten the adjustment bolt, making sure that the alternator does not move. 9 Tighten the link pivot bolt and alternator pivot bolt.

Power steering pump

10 Loosen the power steering pump unit retaining nuts and bolts and the adjuster bolt locknut on the pump bracket. 11 Turn the tensioning bolt until the belt can be depressed approximately 10.0 mm under firm finger pressure midway between the crankshaft and pump pulleys. 12 When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut and the pump retaining nuts and bolts.

Air conditioner compressor

13 Drivebelt tension is adjusted by adding or subtracting shims from between the halves of the compressor pulley. 14 When correctly adjusted, the belt should give a deflection of 5 to 10 mm on its longest run.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

12.12 Removing a tappet bucket shim -

1.6 and 1.8 litre

13.2 Checking alternator drivebelt tension

13.4a Alternator drivebelt tensioner link -

1.3 litre

13.4b Alternator drivebelt tensioner link -

1.8 litre

13.6 Rack type alternator drivebelt tensioner link (A) locknut (B) and

adjustment bolt (C)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Always recheck the tension of a new drivebelt after the engine has been run for ten minutes.

Page 32

14 Antifreeze concentration

check

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before checking antifreeze. Do not allow antifreeze to come

in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell. Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.

1 The concentration of antifreeze in the cooling system should be checked and made good if necessary. Most garages can do this check, or an instrument similar to a battery hydrometer can be purchased for making the check at home. 2 It is essential that an antifreeze mixture is retained in the cooling system at all times to act as a corrosion inhibitor and to protect the engine against freezing in winter months. The mixture should be made up from clean water with a low lime content (preferably rainwater) and a good quality ethylene glycol based antifreeze which contains a corrosion inhibitor and is suitable for use in aluminium engines. 3 The proportion of antifreeze to water must be 50/50 and give protection down to approximately -30ºC. 4 In climates which render frost protection redundant, it is still necessary to use a corrosion inhibitor in the cooling system. Suitable inhibitors should be available from a local VW agent or other reputable specialist.

15 Spark plug renewal

Note: Some models are fitted with a modified ignition coil and single earth electrode spark plugs. This modified coil is identified by a grey (rather than green) sticker. Refer to the Servicing Specifications at the start of this Chapter for the recommended plug types. It is not permissible to use new plugs with an old coil, or vice versa.

1 Where applicable, remove the air cleaner. 2 Pull the HT lead and fittings from each

spark plug, identifying them for location if necessary (see illustration). On the 16V engine, the end fittings incorporate extensions, as the plugs are deeply recessed in the cylinder head. 3 Using compressed air or a vacuum cleaner, remove any debris from around the spark plugs. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a plug socket, preferably with a rubber insert to grip the plug. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten each spark plug to the specified torque (see

Haynes Hint).

16 Contact breaker point

renewal and adjustment

Renewal

1 Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal block on the screening ring, then the earth strap spade connector on the distributor body. 2 Release the two retaining clips and withdraw the distributor cap, complete with screen ring, from the distributor. 3 On 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines, remove the screws and withdraw the bearing plate (see

illustration). 4 Disconnect the moving contact LT lead

from the terminal then remove the retaining screw and withdraw the contact breaker set from the distributor.

5 Wipe clean the contact breaker plate in the distributor and make sure that the contact surfaces of the new contact breaker set are clean. Lubricate the arm surface and moving contact pivot with a little multi-purpose grease. Use only a small amount, otherwise the contact points may become contaminated. 6 Fit the contact set on the baseplate and refit the retaining screw. Connect the LT lead to the terminal. 7 Refit the bearing plate and tighten the screws (where applicable). 8 Adjust the contact breaker points as follows.

Adjustment

9 Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the moving contact point is fully open with its contact heel on the peak of one of the cam lobes. 10 Using a feeler blade, check that the gap between the two points is as specified. If not, loosen the fixed contact screw and reposition the fixed contact until the feeler blade is a firm sliding fit between the two points. In order to make a fine adjustment, slightly loosen the screw then position the screwdriver in the fixed contact notch and the two pips on the contact plate. With the gap adjusted, tighten the screw (see illustrations). 11 Using a dwell meter, check that the dwell angle of the contact points is as specified while spinning the engine on the starter. If not, readjust the points gap as necessary. Reduce the gap in order to increase the dwell angle, or increase the gap in order to reduce the dwell angle. 12 Clean the dust cover and rotor arm then refit them. Do not remove any metal from the rotor arm segment.

1•14 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

15.2 Hold the suppresser cap when pulling each HT lead from its spark plug

16.3 Removing the bearing plate -

1.05 and 1.3 litre

16.10a Checking contact breaker points gap

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head.

Page 33

13 Wipe clean the distributor cap and make sure that the carbon brush moves freely against the tension of the spring. Clean the metal segments in the distributor cap but do not scrape away any metal, otherwise the HT spark at the spark plugs will be reduced. Also clean the HT leads and coil tower. 14 Refit the distributor cap and interference screen. 15 Start the engine and check that the dwell angle is as specified, both at idling and higher engine speeds. A decrease in dwell angle at high engine speeds indicates a weak spring on the moving contact points. 16 After making any adjustment to the contact breaker points, check and adjust the ignition timing.

17 Ignition timing check

Contact breaker system

Note: Accurate ignition timing is only possible using a stroboscopic timing light, although on some models a DC sender unit is located on the top of the gearbox casing and may be

used with a special VW tester to give an instant read-out. However, this tester will not normally be available to the home mechanic. For initial setting-up purposes, the test bulb method can be used but this must always be followed by the stroboscopic timing light method

Test bulb method

1 Remove No. 1 spark plug (crankshaft pulley

end) and place a thumb over the aperture. 2 Turn the engine in the normal running direction (clockwise viewed from the crankshaft pulley end) until pressure is felt in No. 1 cylinder, indicating that the piston is commencing its compression stroke. Use a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, or engage top gear and pull the vehicle forwards. 3 Continue turning the engine until the line on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover. If there are no marks on the timing cover, unscrew and remove the DC sensor or blanking plug from the top of the gearbox and align the timing mark (see Specifications) with the timing pointer (see illustrations). 4 Remove the distributor cap and check that the rotor arm is pointing toward the No. 1 HT lead location in the cap.

5 Connect a 12 volt test bulb between the coil LT negative terminal and a suitable earthing point on the engine.

6 Loosen the distributor clamp retaining bolt. 7 Switch on the ignition. If the bulb is already

lit, turn the distributor body slightly clockwise until the bulb goes out. 8 Turn the distributor body anti-clockwise until the bulb just lights up, indicating that the points have just opened. Tighten the clamp retaining bolt. 9 Switch off the ignition and remove the test bulb. 10 Refit the distributor cap and No. 1 spark plug and HT lead. Once the engine has been started, check the timing stroboscopically.

Stroboscopic timing light method

11 Run the engine until its normal operating

temperature is reached. 12 On 1.05, 1.3 and 1.8 litre fuel injection engines, disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum hose. 13 If there are no timing marks on the timing cover and crankshaft pulley, unscrew and remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from the top of the gearbox. 14 Connect the timing light in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

17.3a Crankshaft pulley mark (A) timing

mark (B) and TDC mark (C) (timing cover

removed) - 1.3 litre

17.3b TDC timing marks - 1.6 and 1.8 litre

A Flywheel/driveplate B Crankshaft pulley

17.3c Rotor arm aligned with TDC mark on distributor body – 1.6 and 1.8 litre

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

16.10b Adjusting contact breaker points gap

16.10c Two pips and notch (arrowed) for inserting screwdriver when adjusting contact breaker points gap

Page 34

15 Connect a tachometer in accordance with

the manufacturer’s instructions.

16 Start the engine and run it at idling speed. 17 Point the timing light at the timing mark

and pointer which should appear to be stationary and aligned. If adjustment is necessary (ie. the marks are not aligned), loosen the clamp retaining bolt and turn the distributor body to correct the ignition timing

(see illustration). 18 Gradually increase the engine speed while

still pointing the timing light at the timing marks. The mark on the flywheel or pulley should appear to move opposite to the direction of rotation, proving that the centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If not, the centrifugal mechanism is faulty and the distributor should be renewed. 19 Accurate checking of the vacuum advance (and retard where fitted) requires the use of a vacuum pump and gauge. However, providing that the diaphragm unit is serviceable, the vacuum hose(s) firmly fitted, and the internal mechanism not seized, the system should work correctly. 20 Switch off the engine, remove the timing light and tachometer, and refit the vacuum hose (where applicable).

Transistorised systems

Note: Accurate ignition timing is only possible using a stroboscopic timing light, although on some models a DC sender unit is located on the top of the gearbox casing and may be used with a special VW tester to give an instant read-out. However, this tester will not normally be available to the home mechanic

TCI-H

21 Run the engine until its normal operating

temperature is reached. 22 On 1.05, 1.3 and 1.8 fuel injection engines, disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum hose. 23 If there are no timing marks on the timing cover and crankshaft pulley, unscrew and remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from the top of the gearbox. 24 Connect a timing light in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 25 Connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

26 Start the engine and run it at idling speed.

27 Point the timing light at the timing mark

(see illustration 17.17). 28 Gradually increase the engine speed while

still pointing the timing light at the timing marks. The mark on the flywheel or pulley should appear to move opposite to the direction of rotation, proving that the centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If not, the centrifugal mechanism is faulty and the distributor should be renewed. 29 Accurate checking of the vacuum advance (and retard where fitted) requires the use of a vacuum pump and gauge. However, providing that the diaphragm unit is serviceable, the vacuum hose(s) firmly fitted, and the internal mechanism not seized, the system should work correctly. 30 Switch off the engine, remove the timing light and tachometer, and refit the vacuum hose (where applicable).

Digifant

31 Run the engine to normal operating

temperature, then switch off the ignition. 32 Connect a stroboscopic timing light to the engine.

33 Run the engine at idle speed. 34 Disconnect the wiring from the temperature sender (see illustration). 35 Increase the engine speed to between 2000

and 2500 rpm, then point the timing light at the aperture over the flywheel. The timing marks should be aligned (see illustration 17.17), but if not, loosen the clamp bolt, turn the distributor as required and retighten the bolt. 36 While checking the ignition timing, the opportunity should be taken to check the temperature and knock sensor controls. 37 With the temperature sender wiring disconnected, increase the engine speed to 2300 rpm and note the exact ignition timing. Hold the engine speed at 2300 rpm, then reconnect the wiring and check that the ignition timing advances by 30° ± 3° from the previously noted value. 38 If the ignition timing only advances about 20°, slacken the knock sensor securing bolt,

retighten to 20 Nm (15 Ibf ft) and repeat the test. If there is no difference, check the associated wiring for an open-circuit, or as a last resort, renew the knock sensor. 39 If there is no advance in ignition timing, check the temperature sender wiring for an open-circuit. A fault is indicated in the Digifant control unit if there is no open-circuit.

18 Engine oil and filter renewal

Oil renewal

1 Before starting this procedure, gather together all necessary tools and materials. Ensure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm as it will drain better and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 2 With the vehicle standing on level ground, position a suitable container under the sump drain plug (see illustration). Remove the drain plug from the sump. 3 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the flow of oil slows to a trickle. Work can be speeded-up by removing

1•16 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

17.34 Disconnecting temperature sender wire

18.2 Sump drain plug

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

17.17 Ignition timing marks

A 1.05 and 1.3 litre B 1.6 and 1.8 litre (carburettor models) C 1.8 litre (fuel injection models)

Page 35

the oil filter, as described below, while the oil is draining. 4 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag and on 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, renew the O-ring. Clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque setting. 5 Depending on engine type, refer to the following sub Section and renew the oil filter. 6 Remove the oil container and all tools from under the vehicle. 7 Refill the engine with the specified type of oil. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to drain to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick (see Weekly checks). Adding a further 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. 8 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. 9 Switch off the engine and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick and add more oil as necessary. 10 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

Filter renewal

11 On 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines, the oil filter is located on the front of the engine beside the alternator. 12 On 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines, the oil filter is located on the side of the crankcase beneath the distributor. It is screwed onto a mounting bracket attached to the crankcase. On fuel injection models, an oil cooler is fitted between the mounting bracket and filter cartridge. 13 With the engine oil drained, place a suitable container beneath the filter then, using a suitable tool, unscrew the filter (see illustration). Empty any oil in the old filter into the container and allow any residual oil to drain out of the engine. 14 Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has, then carefully remove it. Wipe clean the sealing face on the cylinder block. 15 Smear the sealing rubber on the new filter with clean engine oil, then fit and tighten the filter by hand only.

16 On completion, replenish the engine oil then wipe clean the filter body. When the engine is restarted, check around the filter joint for any signs of leakage.

19 Exhaust system check

1 With the exhaust system cold, check the complete system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally the inspection should be carried out with the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) to permit unrestricted access. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage (see illustration). Ensure that all brackets and mountings are in good condition and tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings (see illustration). Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components can come into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings or if possible, separate the joints and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.

20 Slow running adjustment

To check this adjustment, first determine which fuel system is fitted to the vehicle concerned and then refer to the appropriate Part of Chapter 4 for adjustment of that particular system.

21 Clutch operation check

1 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag.

2 If excessive effort is required to operate the clutch, check first that the cable is correctly routed and undamaged, then remove the pedal to ensure that its pivot is properly greased before suspecting a fault in the cable itself. If the cable is worn or damaged, or if its adjusting mechanism is no longer effective, then it must be renewed. 3 Refer to Chapter 6 and on those models where it is possible, check that the clutch is correctly adjusted.

22 Gearbox oil level check

Note: Gearbox oil can foam when hot and give a false level reading. Allow the gearbox to cool before checking the oil level.

1 The gearbox oil level must be checked before the vehicle is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving, some of the oil will remain distributed around the gearbox components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading.

084 and 085 gearboxes

2 Position the vehicle on level ground. 3 The oil filler/level plug is difficult to reach

using the normal hexagon key and it will be much easier to use a nut and bolt as shown (see illustration) together with a conventional spanner. Instead of welding a single nut on the bolt, two nuts may be tightened against each other using thread-locking fluid.

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•17

18.13 Using a chain wrench to unscrew oil filter

19.2 Check exhaust system connections for leaks and security

19.3 Check exhaust system mountings

22.3 Nut and bolt welded together to make oil level plug removal tool - 084 gearbox

A Bolt M10 x 100 mm B Welded nut

Arrows show area of weld

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 36

4 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, then unscrew the plug and clean it. Discard the sealing washer (see illustration). 5 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the plug and will trickle out when it is removed - this does not necessarily indicate that the level is correct. To ensure that a true level is established, wait until the initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging. The level will be correct when the flow ceases. Use only good quality oil of the specified type. 6 If the gearbox has been overfilled so that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is removed, check that the vehicle is completely level (front-to-rear and side-to-side) and allow the surplus to drain off into a suitable container. 7 When the oil level is correct, fit a new sealing washer and refit the filler/level plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Clean away any spilt oil.

020 5-speed gearbox

8 Note the basic instructions given for the 084 and 085 gearboxes whilst taking into account the following information. 9 This gearbox was originally designed for an engine/gearbox unit without any inclination. When fitted to the models covered in this Manual a 2° inclination to the left exists, therefore an accurate check cannot be made with the vehicle on ground level.

10 When checking the oil level with the vehicle on level ground, unscrew the level plug (see illustration) and if there is a thick flow of oil immediately refit the plug. If there is no flow, first top-up to the bottom of the hole then refit the plug. 11 Now add a further 0.5 litre of oil through the speedometer driveshaft hole (see

illustration). 12 From October 1987, the oil level plug hole

has been relocated 7.0 mm higher than the one on earlier models. Consequently all filling and topping up can be carried out through the oil level hole. Removal of the speedometer drive cable is no longer necessary for final topping up.

23 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 Check the transmission fluid level with the engine warm and idling, with the selector lever in position N (neutral) and the handbrake firmly applied. 2 With the vehicle on a level surface, withdraw the level dipstick and wipe it clean with a lint-free cloth. Reinsert it and withdraw again. The level must be between the two marks on the dipstick (see illustration). If not, top-up the level through the dipstick tube using the specified fluid. 3 If much topping-up is required, carry out a check for leaks. If no external leaks are visible, check the final drive oil level. If this is found to be too high, it is probable that the transmission fluid is leaking internally into the final drive casing and if this is the case, it must be attended to without delay by your VW dealer. 4 The difference in quantity of fluid between the maximum and minimum marks on the fluid level dipstick is 0.4 litre. 5 On completion, insert the dipstick and switch off the engine.

24 CV joint and boot check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), turn the steering onto full lock then slowly rotate each roadwheel in turn to facilitate inspection of the CV joints and boots. 2 Inspect the condition of each CV joint boot while squeezing it to open out any folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber which may allow grease to escape and lead to the entry of water and grit into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the boot retaining clips. If any damage or deterioration is found, the boot should be renewed. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the roadwheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft nut.

1•18 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

22.4 Gearbox filler/level plug location (arrowed) - 084 gearbox

22.10 Using a key to unscrew level plug 020 5-speed gearbox

22.11 Filling gearbox through

speedometer driveshaft hole - early 020

5-speed gearbox

23.2 Automatic transmission fluid level dipstick - remove in direction of arrow

24.2 Inspect condition of each CV joint boot

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 37

25 Fuel and brake line, hose

and union check

Warning: Do not drive the vehicle until necessary repair work has been carried out on damaged fuel and brake lines.

1 It is essential for this check to raise the vehicle sufficiently enough to allow a complete uninterrupted view of its underside. 2 Working methodically from one end of the vehicle to the other, carry out the following tasks. 3 Clean the rigid brake lines and flexible hoses, at the same time checking them for damage, leakage, chafing and cracks. If the coating on the rigid pipes is damaged or if rusting is apparent, then they must be renewed. Check all pipe retaining clips for security and clean away any accumulation of dirt (see illustrations). 4 Similarly, inspect all hoses and metal pipes leading away from the fuel tank. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the tank filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. 5 Inspect the underside of the fuel tank for punctures, scrapes and other damage. 6 If any damage or deterioration is discovered to either system, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out.

26 Brake pad and rear shoe

lining check

Note: VW recommend that operation of the brake pressure regulator is checked by one of their garages at the same interval that the disc pads and rear brake linings are checked for wear

Brake pads

1 Both front and rear brake pad lining wear can be checked by viewing through a hole in the wheel rim (see illustration). Use a mirror placed on the inside of the wheel. The use of a torch may also be necessary. 2 If pad thickness is less than the minimum amount specified, renew the pads as a set.

Rear brake shoes

3 Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Chock the front wheels. 4 Working beneath the vehicle, remove the rubber plugs from the front of the backplates and check with a torch that the linings are not worn below the minimum thickness specified. On completion, refit the plugs.

27 Headlight beam alignment

check

Single unit

Caution: It is recommended that headlamp beam alignment is checked by a VW garage using modern beam setting equipment. However, in an emergency, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern.

1 With its tyres correctly inflated, position the vehicle on a level surface, approximately 10 metres in front of a flat wall. 2 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the vehicle. Now measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres.

3 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If not, turn the upper cross-head adjustment screw to adjust the beam laterally and/or the lower screw to adjust the beam vertically (see illustration).

Twin unit

4 On models with twin headlamps, the inner lamps are adjusted laterally with the lower adjustment screw and vertically with the upper screw.

28 Steering gear check

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear rubber gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration (see illustration). Any damage to these components will cause loss of lubricant together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Grasp the roadwheel at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions and try to rock it. Any movement felt may be caused by wear in the hub bearings or track rod balljoints. If a balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the steering gear rubber gaiter and

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•19

25.3a Bend each brake hose to check for cracks

25.3b Check all pipe retaining clips for security

26.1 Check brake pad lining wear by viewing through inspection aperture

27.3 Turn adjustment screws (arrowed) to adjust headlamp beam alignment

28.2 Inspect balljoint dust covers

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 38

gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 4 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and the roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition check for wear of the steering column universal joint and the steering gear itself.

29 Suspension check

1 Raise and support each end of the vehicle in turn and inspect the suspension components for signs of excessive wear or damage as follows. 2 Inspect the suspension balljoints for wear and the dust covers for any signs of splits or deterioration. Renew if necessary. 3 Check the track control arm (wishbone) and anti-roll bar mounting/pivot bushes for signs of excessive wear and/or deterioration and again renew if necessary. 4 Check the shock absorbers for signs of leakage and the suspension to subframe and body mountings for signs of corrosion (see

illustration).

30 Hinge and catch lubrication

1 Lubricate the door, bonnet and tailgate hinges with a little light machine oil. 2 Lubricate also the bonnet release mechanism and door, bonnet and tailgate locks. Do not lubricate the steering lock. 3 At the same time lubricate the door check straps with a little multi-purpose grease.

31 Vehicle underbody check

Note: Steam-cleaning is available at many garages for the purpose of removing any

accumulation of oily grime from beneath a vehicle.

1 Raise the vehicle sufficiently enough to allow a complete uninterrupted view of its underside. 2 Wash the vehicle underbody down as thoroughly as possible. 3 Carefully check all underbody paintwork, looking closely for chips or scratches. Check with particular care vulnerable areas such as the front spoiler and around the wheel arches. Any damage to the paintwork must be rectified to prevent further corrosion. 4 If a chip or light scratch is found that is recent and still free from rust, it can be touched-up using the appropriate paint. More serious damage or rusted stone chips can be repaired as described in Chapter 11. If damage or corrosion is so severe that a panel must be renewed, seek professional advice as soon as possible. 5 The wax-based underbody protective coating should now be inspected to ensure that it is unbroken and any damage to the coating repaired using undershield. If any body panels are disturbed for repair or renewed, do not forget to replace the coating and to inject wax into door panels, sills, box sections etc. so as to maintain the level of protection provided by the manufacturer. 6 Check carefully that all wheel arch liners and underwing shields are in place and securely fastened. 7 Finally, check that all door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear so that water is allowed to drain.

32 Air cleaner element renewal

Carburettor models

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

1 Release the spring clips securing the air cleaner lid and remove the lid (see illustration).

2 Cover the carburettor entry port to prevent

any dirt entering it when the element is lifted out. Remove the element (see illustration). Wipe the inside of the air cleaner with a moist rag to remove all dust and dirt and then remove the covering from the entry port. 3 Fit the new element. Clean the cover, position it in place, then clip it down whilst ensuring that the two arrows are aligned.

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines

4 Unclip and remove the cover then withdraw

the element. Note that on some models, it is necessary to first loosen the front mounting nut (see illustrations). 5 Clean the interior of the air cleaner with a fuel-moistened cloth, then wipe it dry. 6 Fit the new element in the reverse order of removal.

Fuel-injected models

7 Release the spring clips securing the air cleaner cover and separate the cover from the airflow meter (see illustration).

1•20 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

29.4 Check shock absorbers for leakage

32.1 Unclip the air cleaner lid . . . 32.2 . . . and remove the element -

1.3 litre, carburettor

32.4a Unclip air cleaner cover . . .

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months

Page 39

8 Withdraw the element from the housing. 9 Wipe clean the inside of the cover. 10 Fit the new element and secure the cover

by pressing the clips home.

33 Fuel filter renewal

Carburettor models

1 To remove the in-line filter, remove its pipe retaining clips, disconnect the pipes and extract the filter (see illustration). If necessary, replace the original crimped type clips with screw type ones. 2 Fit the new filter in a horizontal position with its arrow facing the flow of fuel towards the fuel pump. Ensure that the pipe retaining clips are properly tightened then start the engine and check carefully for any signs of fuel leaks from the pipe ends. 3 Dispose safely of the old filter, it will be highly inflammable and may explode if thrown on a fire.

Fuel-injected models

4 The fuel filter is mounted on the inboard side of the pump reservoir on the underside of the vehicle at the rear just forward of the fuel tank (see illustration)

5 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 6 Raise the vehicle at the rear and support it

on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

7 At the forward end of the filter, undo the fuel accumulator hose union bolt and detach the union whilst collecting the washer each side of it. 8 At the rear end of the filter, detach the fuel supply hose (to the metering distributor) by undoing the union bolt. Collect the washer each side of the union. 9 Loosen the filter retaining clamp and withdraw the filter. 10 Fitting the new filter is a reversal of the removal procedure. Renew the union washers and tighten the union bolts to the specified torque. Check that the arrow on the filter points in the direction of fuel flow. 11 On completion, check for any signs of fuel

leakage with the engine running. 12 Dispose safely of the old filter, it will be highly inflammable and may explode if thrown on a fire.

34 Sunroof guide rail cleaning

and lubrication

Open the sunroof and wipe clean its guide rails. Coat each rail very lightly with grease, ensuring that none finds its way onto the interior trim.

Check that the sunroof opens and closes smoothly throughout its complete operating range.

Every 20 000 miles or 24 months 1•21

32.4b . . . loosen front mounting nut . . .

32.4c . . . then remove cover to expose element - 1.6 and 1.8 litre, carburettor

33.4 Fuel filter unit clamp (A) hose to

accumulator (B) and hose to metering

valve (C) - K-Jetronic fuel injection

33.1 In-line fuel filter - 1.05 and 1.3 litre, carburettor

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

32.7 Air cleaner components Digijet fuel injection

1 Upper cover 2 Screws 3 O-ring 4 Airflow meter 5 Tamperproof plug 6 Hose clip 7 Intake hose 8 Mixture (CO content)

adjusting screw 9 O-ring 10 Connector 11 Air cleaner element 12 Lower body 13 Rubber washer 14 Pre-heater hose 15 Retaining ring 16 Air intake pre-heater

regulator flap 17 To inlet elbow

Page 40

37 Timing belt renewal

Refer to the appropriate Part of Chapter 2

for the particular engine type concerned.

36 Brake fluid renewal

1 The procedure is similar to that described for bleeding of the hydraulic system in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied before starting by syphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar. Also, allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit.

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open the first bleed nipple in the sequence and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed nipple. Tighten the nipple and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line. 3 Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker in colour than the new, making it easy to distinguish the two.

4 Work through all the remaining nipples in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up to above the MIN level at all times or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check that all nipples are securely tightened and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the vehicle on the road.

35 Automatic transmission and

final drive fluid renewal

Note: Under extreme operating conditions, automatic transmission fluid should be changed at more frequent intervals.

Automatic transmission

1 Whenever the automatic transmission fluid is renewed, the oil pan and strainer must also be cleaned (where applicable). First jack up the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 Remove the transmission drain plug and drain the fluid into a container. If there is no drain plug, loosen the oil pan front bolts then unscrew the rear bolts and lower the pan in order to drain the fluid (see illustration). Take care to avoid scalding if the engine has just been run. 3 Unbolt and remove the pan from the transmission and remove the gasket. Clean the inside of the pan. 4 Unbolt the strainer cover and remove the strainer and gasket. 5 Clean the strainer and cover and dry thoroughly. 6 Refit the cover and strainer, together with a new gasket, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 7 Refit the pan, together with a new gasket, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. Lower the vehicle. 8 Initially, refill the transmission with 2.5 litres of the specified fluid, then restart the engine. Check that the handbrake is fully applied then move the gear selector lever through the full range of gears finishing at N. With the engine still idling, check the fluid level on the dipstick. The fluid level should at least be visible on the dipstick. If not, add the minimum amount of

fluid necessary to bring the level up to be visible on the tip of the dipstick. 9 Take the vehicle on a short drive to warm-up the fluid in the transmission then recheck the fluid level. Top-up if necessary. Do not overfill with fluid or the excess will have to be drained off.

Final drive unit

10 To check the oil level in the final drive unit, the vehicle will need to be over an inspection pit or raised and supported on a level position on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) for access to the filler/level plug

(see illustration). 11 Remove the plug and check that the oil is

level with the bottom edge of the plug hole. If

not, top-up the level through the plug hole then refit the plug. Lower the vehicle.

1•22 Maintenance procedures

35.10 Final drive unit oil filler/level plug (arrowed)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km)

Every 2 years

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km)

35.2 Automatic transmission oil pan and strainer

Page 41

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Chapter 2 Part A:

Engine repair procedures -

1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

General

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder in-line, water cooled, overhead camshaft

Code:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GN

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HK

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at camshaft sprocket end)

Displacement:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1043 cc

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1272 cc

Bore:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mm

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mm

Stroke:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59.0 mm

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72.0 mm

Compression ratio:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 1

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 1

Compression pressure:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 bar

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 bar

Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . . . 3.0 bar

Camshaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . 21

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder block/crankcase - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 22

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Engine ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Engine ancillary components and gearbox - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine/gearbox - separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Flywheel - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Flywheel - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Flywheel - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Major operation only possible after removal of engine from vehicle . . 3

Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . . 23

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..15

Timing belt and sprockets - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 26

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 42

Crankshaft

Main journal:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.0 mm

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.75, 53.50 and 53.25 mm

Crankpin:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mm

Journal undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.75, 41.50 and 41.25 mm

Endfloat:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Main bearing maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end:

Maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.095 mm

Maximum endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm

Pistons

Clearance in bore:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm

Diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.98 mm

Oversize:

1st oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.23 mm

2nd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm

3rd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.98 mm

Wear limit (10 mm from base/ right angles to pin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm

Piston rings

Maximum clearance in groove. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

End gap:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm

Oil scraper ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pin

Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Push fit at 60°C

Cylinder head

Maximum allowable face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Camshaft

Run-out at centre bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Valves

Seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.1 mm

Stem diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.97 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.95 mm

Standard overall length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.5 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.5 mm

Valve guides

Maximum valve rock (stem flush with guide):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift

1.05 litre:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9° ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° BTDC

2A•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Page 43

1.3 litre:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Valve clearances

Warm:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.30 mm

Cold:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wet sump, pressure feed, full flow filter

Lubricant type/specification/capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to

“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”

Filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101/C160

Pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eccentric gear driven by crankshaft

Pressure (2000 rpm with oil temperature 80°C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar minimum

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine to gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Exhaust pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Connecting rod big-end cap nuts (oiled):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/4 turn (90°)

Oil suction pipe to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil relief valve plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil pressure sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Crankshaft sprocket/pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Distributor flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Cylinder head bolts (engine cold):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/2 turn (180°)

Engine mountings (with oiled threads):

Refer to illustrations 40.1a and 40.1b

(a) M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

(a) M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

(b) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

(d) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

(e) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

(f) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

(g) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

* When checking the connecting rod-to-crankshaft journal radial clearance using Plastigage, tighten only to 30Nm (22 lbf ft).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•3

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

1 General information

The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines are of

four-cylinder, in-line, overhead camshaft type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle. The transmission is attached to the left-hand side of the engine.

The crankshaft is of five bearing type and separate thrustwashers are fitted to the central main bearing to control crankshaft endfloat.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt which also drives the coolant pump. The toothed belt is tensioned by moving the coolant pump in its eccentric mounting. The valves are operated from the camshaft by rocker fingers which pivot on ball-head studs. The distributor

is driven by the camshaft and is located on the left-hand end of the cylinder head.

The oil pump is of the eccentric gear type

driven from the end of the crankshaft.

The cylinder head is of crossflow design, with the inlet manifold at the rear and the exhaust manifold at the front.

The crankcase ventilation system is of the positive type and consists of an oil separator on the rear (coolant pipe side) of the cylinder

Page 44

block, connected to the air cleaner by a rubber hose. Vacuum from the air cleaner provides a partial vacuum in the crankcase and the piston blow-by gases are drawn through the oil separator and into the engine combustion chambers.

2 Major operations possible

with engine in vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder

head, camshaft and timing belt

b) Removal of the flywheel and crankshaft

rear oil seal (after removal of the gearbox) c) Removal of the sump d) Removal of the piston/connecting rod

assemblies (after removal of the cylinder

head and sump) e) Renewal of the crankshaft front and rear

oil seals and the camshaft front oil seal f) Renewal of the engine mountings g) Removal of the oil pump

3 Major operation only

possible after removal of engine from vehicle

The following operation can only be carried

out after removal of the engine from the vehicle:

a) Renewal of crankshaft main bearings

4 Method of engine removal

1 The engine, together with the gearbox,

must be lifted from the engine compartment and the engine separated from the gearbox on the bench. Two people will be needed.

2 A hoist of 150 kg capacity will be needed to lift the engine approximately 1 metre. If the hoist is not portable, then sufficient room must be left behind the vehicle to push it back out of the way so that the engine may be lowered. Blocks will be needed to support the engine after removal. 3 Ideally the vehicle should be over a pit. If this is not possible then the body must be supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) so that the front wheels may be turned to undo the driveshaft nuts. The left-hand shaft is accessible from above but the right-hand shaft must be undone from underneath. Removal of the gearshift linkage can only be done from underneath, as can removal of the exhaust pipe bracket. When all tasks are complete, lower the vehicle back onto its wheels. 4 A set of splined keys will be required to remove and refit the socket-head bolts used to secure certain items, such as the cylinder head bolts. 5 Draining of oil and coolant is best done away from the working area if possible. This saves the mess made by spilled oil in the place where you must work. 6 If an air conditioning system is fitted, observe the precautions listed in Chapter 3.

5 Engine - removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet. 3 Drain the engine coolant and remove the

radiator, complete with cooling fan unit.

4 Remove the air cleaner unit. 5 Loosen the clip and disconnect the top

hose from the thermostat housing. 6 Place a container beneath the engine then unscrew the sump drain plug and drain the oil

- see Chapter 1. When complete, clean the drain plug and washer and refit it to the sump.

7 Identify the fuel supply and return hoses then disconnect them from the fuel pump (see illustration) and fuel reservoir/carburettor. Plug the hoses to prevent fuel leakage. 8 Loosen the clip and disconnect the bottom hose from the coolant pipe at the rear of the engine. 9 Disconnect the accelerator cable and, where applicable, the choke cable. 10 Disconnect the heater hoses from the thermostat housing and rear coolant pipe. 11 Detach the following connections, identifying each lead as it is disconnected to avoid confusion on reassembly:

a) The oil pressure switches on the rear

(carburettor side) of the cylinder head

b) Inlet manifold preheating element line

connector

c) Thermo-switch leads (coolant hose

intermediate piece) d) Distributor HT and LT leads e) Starter motor f) Temperature sender unit (thermostat

housing) g) Fuel cut-off solenoid valve on carburettor h) Earth strap to gearbox

12 Detach the wiring loom from the location clip on the bottom hose and fold back out of the way. 13 Disconnect and unclip the vacuum hoses from the distributor and inlet manifold as necessary.

14 Disconnect the clutch cable (see illustration). 15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from

the exhaust manifold. 16 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox and place it on one side. 17 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 18 Remove the screw from the shift rod coupling and ease the coupling from the rod (see illustration). The screw threads are coated with a liquid locking agent and if

2A•4 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

5.7 Detach hoses from fuel pump 5.14 Earth lead (A) and clutch cable (B)

Page 45

difficulty is experienced, it may be necessary to heat up the coupling with a blowlamp whilst observing the necessary fire precautions. Note that once removed this screw should be renewed. 19 Note its orientation then withdraw the shift rod coupling. 20 Unbolt the exhaust steady bracket from the downpipe and clutch housing/starter motor.

21 Detach the reversing light switch lead (see illustration). 22 Unbolt the driveshafts from the drive

flanges and tie them to one side with wire. 23 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting eye brackets (one at each end of the cylinder head on the carburettor side) (see illustration). Take the weight of the engine/gearbox unit. 24 Working from above, undo the three engine mounting/bearer retaining bolts (underneath the carburettor) (see illustration). 25 Undo and remove the gearbox mounting bolt (rear left side of engine compartment). 26 Undo and remove the front engine mounting bolt and then remove the bolts securing the bracket to the engine. Withdraw the mounting (see illustrations).

27 Before lifting out the engine/gearbox unit, get an assistant to hold the engine steady and help guide it clear of surrounding components as it is removed. 28 Lift the engine/gearbox unit from the engine compartment (see illustration) while turning it as necessary to clear the internally mounted components. Make sure that all wires, cables and hoses have been disconnected. 29 Lower the unit onto a workbench or large piece of wood placed on the floor.

6 Engine/gearbox - separation

1 The engine/gearbox unit must be supported so that the gearbox can be eased away from it. Either support the engine on blocks so that the gearbox overhangs the bench, or do the job while the engine and gearbox are on the hoist. 2 Detach the lead from the alternator then unclip the lead from the locating clips on the sump side walls.

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•5

5.18 Shift rod coupling screw 5.21 Reversing light switch 5.23 Engine lifting eye

5.24 Engine mounting/bearer - right-hand 5.26a Undo front mounting through-bolt

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

5.26b Unbolt and remove mounting unit 5.28 Lifting out engine/gearbox unit

Page 46

3 Because the rear bearing of the starter

armature is in the bellhousing, it is necessary to remove the starter before separating the engine and gearbox. If not already removed when unbolting the starter motor, also detach the exhaust pipe support bracket (see

illustration). 4 Detach the coolant pipe at its flange on the

rear side of the coolant pump and at the clutch housing. 5 Undo the clutch housing belly plate bolt and withdraw the plate. 6 Undo and remove the remaining engine-to-gearbox securing bolts then pull the gearbox free. Do not insert wedges or you will damage the facing. Tap the gearbox gently and wriggle it off the two dowels which locate it. The intermediate plate will remain in position (see illustrations).

7 Engine dismantling - general

information

1 If possible, mount the engine on a stand for the dismantling procedure, but failing this, support it in an upright position with blocks of wood. 2 Cleanliness is most important. If the engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with paraffin while keeping it in an upright position. 3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a concrete floor as grit presents a real source of trouble. 4 As parts are removed, clean them in a paraffin bath. Do not immerse parts with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners. 5 Obtain suitable containers to hold small items. This will help when reassembling the engine and also prevent possible loss. 6 Obtain complete sets of gaskets when the engine is being dismantled but retain the old gaskets with a view to using them as a pattern to make a replacement if a new one is not available. 7 When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers in their location after being removed. This helps to protect the threads and will also be helpful when reassembling the engine. 8 Retain unserviceable components in order to compare them with the new parts supplied.

8 Engine ancillary components

- removal

With the engine removed from the vehicle and separated from the gearbox, the externally mounted ancillary components should now be removed before dismantling begins. The removal sequence need not necessarily follow the order given:

a) Alternator and drivebelt b) Inlet manifold and carburettor c) Exhaust manifold d) Distributor e) Fuel pump f) Thermostat g) Clutch h) Crankcase ventilation hose i) Distributor cap and spark plugs j) Oil filter k) Engine mountings

(see illustrations)

l) Dipstick (see illustration) m)Oil pressure switches n) Coolant temperature thermo-switch o) Alternator mounting bracket and engine

earth lead

p) Engine rear coolant pipe (see illustration)

2A•6 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

6.3 Starter motor and exhaust support bracket

6.6a Undo securing bolts (recessed bolt shown) . . .

6.6b . . . then separate engine and transmission

8.1b Right-hand rear mounting viewed from above

8.1a Lift the mounting away

8.1c Engine dipstick and tube 8.1d Removing engine rear coolant pipe

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Page 47

9 Cylinder head - removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead b) Remove the air cleaner and fuel pump c) Drain the cooling system and remove the

top hose and thermostat d) Remove the distributor and spark plugs e) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds.

If necessary, this can be carried out with

the cylinder head on the bench f) Disconnect the wiring from the coolant

temperature sender and oil pressure

switch

2 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips (see

illustrations). 3 Turn the engine until the indentation in the

camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump (see illustrations). Now turn the crankshaft one quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are at TDC.

4 Unbolt and remove the timing cover (see illustration), noting that the dipstick tube and

earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover. Pull the dipstick tube from the cylinder block. 5 Using a socket through the hole in the camshaft sprocket, unscrew the timing cover plate upper retaining bolt. 6 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket.

7 Remove the bolts and withdraw the timing cover plate, followed by the coolant pump if required. 8 Using a splined key, unscrew the cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that shown for tightening. Note the location of the engine lifting hooks.

9 Lift the cylinder head from the block (see illustration). If it is stuck, tap it free with a

wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever as damage will occur to the joint faces. 10 Remove the gasket from the cylinder block (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•7

9.2a Removing valve cover. . . 9.2b . . . and gasket

9.4 Removing timing cover 9.9 Removing cylinder head . . . 9.10 . . . and gasket

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

9.3a TDC mark on camshaft sprocket and pointer

9.3b Crankshaft pulley notch aligned with TDC pointer

Page 48

10 Camshaft - removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead b) Remove the air cleaner and fuel pump c) Remove the distributor and spark plugs

2 If the cylinder head is still fitted to the engine, first carry out the procedure described in paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive. 3 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips. 4 Turn the engine until the indentation in the camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the

crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. Now turn the crankshaft one quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are at TDC. 5 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover. 6 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. 7 Prise the oil spray tube from the top of the cylinder head (see illustration). 8 Note how the cam follower clips are fitted then prise them from the ball-studs (see

illustration).

9 Identify each cam follower for location then

remove each one by levering with a screwdriver. Make sure that the peak of the relevant cam is pointing away from the follower first by turning the camshaft as necessary (see illustration). 10 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt and remove the spacer (see illustration). The sprocket can be held stationary using a metal bar with two bolts, with one bolt inserted in a hole and the other bolt resting on the outer rim of the sprocket. 11 Tap the sprocket from the camshaft with a wooden mallet and prise out the Woodruff key. 12 Using feeler blades, check the camshaft endfloat by inserting the blade between the end of the camshaft and distributor flanges (see illustration). If it is more than the amount specified, the components will have to be checked for wear and renewed as necessary. 13 Using an Allen key, unscrew the bolts and remove the distributor flange (see

illustration). Remove the gasket. 14 Carefully slide the camshaft from the

cylinder head, taking care not to damage the three bearing surfaces as the lobes of the cams pass through them (see illustration). 15 Prise the camshaft oil seal from the cylinder head (see illustration).

2A•8 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

10.7 Removing oil spray tube 10.8 Removing a cam follower clip 10.9 Removing a cam follower

10.13 Removing distributor flange 10.14 Withdrawing camshaft

10.10 Removing camshaft sprocket bolt (early type sprocket shown)

10.12 Checking camshaft endfloat

10.15 Removing camshaft oil seal

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11 Cylinder head - dismantling

and overhaul

Dismantling

1 Remove the cylinder head and camshaft, as described in the previous Sections. 2 Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed. Release the compressor and remove the retainers and springs (see illustrations). If the retainers are difficult to remove, do not continue to tighten the compressor but gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer. Always make sure that the compressor is held firmly over the retainer. 3 Remove each valve from the cylinder head, keeping them identified for location. 4 Prise the valve seals from the valve guides and remove the lower spring seats (see

illustration). 5 Do not remove the cam follower ball-studs

unless they are unserviceable. They are likely to be seized in the head.

Overhaul

6 Use a scraper to carefully remove any carbon from the cylinder head. Remove all traces of gasket then wash the cylinder head thoroughly in paraffin and wipe dry. 7 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head mating surface is not distorted. If it is, then it must be resurfaced by a suitably equipped engineering works. If the cylinder head face is to be resurfaced, this will necessitate the valve seats being re-cut so that they are recessed deeper by an equivalent amount to that machined from the cylinder head. This is necessary to avoid the possibility of the valves coming into contact with the pistons and causing serious damage and is a task to be entrusted to a suitably equipped engine recondition specialist. (see illustration).

8 Examine the valve heads for pitting and burning. Renew any valve which is badly burnt. Examine the valve seats at the same time. If the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by grinding the valve heads and seats together with coarse, then fine, grinding paste. Note that the exhaust valves should not be re-cut, they should be renewed if the sealing face is excessively grooved as a result of regrinding. 9 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the valve seats must be re-cut or renewed by a specialist. 10 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside down on a bench with a block of wood at each end. Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete.

11 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head stem and clean away all traces of grinding compound. Clean the valves and seats with a paraffin-soaked rag, then wipe with a clean rag. 12 Check for wear in the valve guides. This may be detected by fitting a new valve in the guide and checking the amount that the rim of the valve will move sideways when the top of the valve stem is flush with the top of the valve guide. The rock limit for the inlet valve is

1.0 mm and 1.3 mm for the exhaust valve. This can be measured with feeler blades if you use a clamp as a datum but it must be with a new valve. If the rock is at or below this limit with your old valve then this indicates that the existing guide(s) do not need renewal. Check each valve guide in turn but note that the inlet and exhaust valve stem dimensions differ, so do not get them confused. If the rock exceeds the limit with a new valve, this will indicate the need for new valve guides as well. The removal and refitting of new guides is a task which must be entrusted to a specialist.

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•9

11.4 . . . and valve spring lower seats

11.7 Measure cylinder head depth between points indicated

Minimum allowable depth a = 119.3 mm

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

11.2a Compressing a valve spring to remove split collets

11.2b Removing valve springs and retainers . . .

Page 50

13 If possible, compare the length of the

valve springs with new ones and renew them as a set if any are shorter. 14 If the engine is still in the vehicle, clean the piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges but make sure that no carbon drops between the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal off the remaining bores with paper and masking tape. Press a little grease between the two pistons and their bores to collect any carbon dust which can be wiped away when the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon build-up, polish the piston crown with metal polish but remove all traces of the polish afterwards.

12 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery negative lead b) Remove the air cleaner c) Remove the alternator drivebelt

2 Turn the engine until the indentation in the camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover. 4 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket (see

illustration). 5 Using an Allen key, unbolt the pulley from

the crankshaft sprocket then remove the timing belt. 6 To remove the camshaft sprocket, unscrew the bolt and remove the spacer. Tap off the sprocket and remove the Woodruff key. Do not turn the camshaft. The sprocket can be held stationary using a metal bar with two bolts, with one bolt inserted through a

sprocket hole and the other bolt resting on the outer rim. 7 To remove the crankshaft sprocket, unscrew the bolt and lever the sprocket from the crankshaft (see illustration). Do not turn the crankshaft otherwise the pistons may touch the valve heads. Hold the crankshaft stationary with a lever inserted in the starter ring gear (remove the starter as applicable). Remove the Woodruff key.

13 Flywheel - removal

1 Remove the clutch. 2 Hold the flywheel stationary with a lever or

angle iron (see illustration) engaged with the starter ring gear. 3 Unscrew the bolts and lift the flywheel from the crankshaft (see illustration). 4 Remove the engine plate from the cylinder block (see illustration). 5 The flywheel bolts must be renewed once they are removed.

14 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal

Front seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket. 2 If available, use VW tool 2085 to remove the

seal from the oil pump housing. Removal of

the seal with the engine and oil pump in position in the vehicle can prove difficult without the special tool. In this instance, an alternative method is to drill two holes, diagonally opposed to each other in the seal, insert two self-tapping screws and then pull on the screws using grips to withdraw the seal. If using this method, care must be taken not to drill into the housing. 3 If the oil pump is removed from the engine, the seal can be prised out and a new item fitted - see illustration 31.1.

4 Clean the recess in the oil pump. 5 Smear a little clean engine oil on the lip and

outer edge of the new seal, then fit it with VW tool 10-203 or by tapping it in with a suitable metal tube . 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket.

Rear seal

7 Remove the flywheel.

Method 1

8 Drill two diagonally opposite holes in the

seal. Insert two self-tapping screws and pull out the seal with grips.

9 Clean the recess in the housing. 10 Smear a little clean engine oil on the lip

and outer edge of the new seal then tap it into the housing using a suitable metal tube

11 Refit the flywheel.

Method 2

12 Remove the sump. 13 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the

housing from the dowels on the cylinder block. Remove the gasket (see illustrations).

2A•10 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

12.4 Releasing timing belt from camshaft sprocket

12.7 Removing crankshaft sprocket bolt and washer

13.2 One method of holding the flywheel stationary

13.3 Removing flywheel 13.4 Removing engine plate

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Page 51

14 Support the housing and drive out the oil seal (see illustration).

15 Clean the recess in the housing. 16 Smear a little clean engine oil on the lip

and outer edge of the new seal then tap it into the housing using a block of wood (see

illustration). 17 Clean the mating faces then refit the

housing, together with a new gasket, and tighten the bolts evenly in diagonal sequence.

18 Refit the sump and flywheel.

15 Sump - removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Jack up the front of the vehicle and

support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Apply the handbrake

b) Disconnect the right-hand side driveshaft

and the exhaust system

c) Unclip the alternator wire from the sump

(see illustration)

d) Drain the engine oil into a suitable

container. Clean the drain plug and washer and refit it, tightening to the specified torque

2 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the sump from the cylinder block (see illustration). If it is stuck, lever it away or cut through the gasket with a knife . 3 Scrape the gasket from the sump and cylinder block.

16 Oil pump - removal

1 Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket.

2 Remove the sump. 3 Unbolt and remove the pick-up tube and

strainer from the oil pump and cylinder block. Remove the flange gasket (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the dowels on the front of the cylinder block. Note that the timing pointed bracket is located on the two upper central bolts and the timing belt guard on the two left-hand side bolts. Remove the gasket (see illustrations).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•11

14.13a Withdrawing crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . .

14.13b . . . and gasket 14.14 Remove crankshaft rear oil seal from housing

16.3 Removing oil pump pick-up tube and strainer

16.4a Removing oil pump . . . 16.4b . . . and gasket

14.16 Installing new crankshaft rear oil seal

15.1 Alternator wire clip on sump 15.2 Removing the sump

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Page 52

17 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal

1 Remove the cylinder head. 2 Remove the sump. 3 Unbolt and remove the pick-up tube and

strainer from the oil pump and cylinder block. Remove the flange gasket. 4 Using a feeler blade, check that the connecting rod big-end endfloat on each crankpin is within the specified limits (see illustration). If not, the components must be checked for wear and renewed as necessary. 5 Check the big-end caps and connecting rods for identification marks, if necessary use a centre punch to mark them for location and position. Note that the cut-outs in the connecting rods and caps face the timing belt end of the engine. The arrows on the piston crown also face the timing belt (see

illustration). 6 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is

at its lowest point. 7 Unscrew the big-end nuts and tap free the cap, together with its bearing shell (see

illustration). 8 Using the handle of a hammer, tap the

piston and connecting rod from the bore and withdraw it from the top of the cylinder block

(see illustration). 9 Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod. 10 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs

7 to 9 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then turn the crankshaft through half a turn

and repeat the procedure on No 2 and 3 pistons. 11 Note that during reassembly, the connecting rod bolts must be renewed.

18 Crankshaft and main

bearings - removal

1 Disconnect the connecting rods from the crankshaft. It is not essential to remove the pistons or, therefore, to remove the cylinder head. 2 Remove the oil pump and the rear oil seal housing. 3 Using a feeler blade, check that the crankshaft endfloat is within the specified limits (see illustration). Insert the feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers. This will indicate whether new thrustwashers are required or not. 4 Check that the main bearing caps are identified for location and position. There should be a cast number in the crankcase ventilation pipe/coolant coolant pipe side of the caps, numbered from the timing belt end of the engine (see illustration). 5 Unscrew the bolts and tap the main bearing caps free. Keep the bearing shells and where fitted, the thrustwashers identified for position. 6 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and remove the remaining bearing shells and thrustwashers. Keep them identified for position (see illustration).

19 Oil filter - renewal

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18

20 Examination and renovation

- general information

With the engine completely stripped, clean all the components and examine them for wear. Each part should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated, as described in the following Sections. Renew main and big-end shell bearings as a matter of course, unless you know that they have had little wear and are in perfect condition

2A•12 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

17.4 Checking connecting rod endfloat 17.5 Piston crown showing arrow which points to timing belt end of engine

17.7 Withdrawing a big-end cap

18.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat

17.8 Removing a piston

18.4 Crankshaft main bearing cap

numbering

18.6 Removing crankshaft

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Page 53

21 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the crankshaft for scratches or scoring. Using a micrometer, check each journal and crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be in excess of 0.17 mm, the crankshaft will have to be reground and undersize bearings fitted. 2 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out by a specialist who will normally supply the matching undersize main and big-end shell bearings. 3 If crankshaft endfloat is more than the maximum specified amount, new centre main bearing shells with side flanges will have to be fitted to replace the thrustwashers. These are usually supplied together with the main and big-end bearings on a reground crankshaft.

22 Cylinder block/crankcase -

examination and renovation

1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by examining the top of the bores. If these are worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is excessive, the engine will have had a high oil consumption rate accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust. 2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to measure the bore diameter just below the ridge and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not subject to wear. If the difference is more than 0.15 mm, the cylinders will normally require reboring with new oversize pistons fitted. 3 If cylinder bore wear does not exceed 0.20 mm, special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted to restore compression and stop the engine burning oil. 4 If new pistons are being fitted to old bores, it is essential to roughen the bore walls slightly with fine glasspaper to enable the new piston rings to bed in properly. 5 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and

cylinder block for cracks and damage and use a piece of wire to probe all oilways and waterways to ensure that they are unobstructed.

6 Check the core plugs for leaks and security (see illustration).

23 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

1 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and scratches. Check the connecting rods for wear and damage. 2 To remove the pistons from the connecting rods, first mark the two components in relation to each other. The indentation on the bearing end of the connecting rod faces the same way as the arrow on the piston crown

(see illustration). 3 Prise out the circlips then dip the piston in

hot water. Press out the gudgeon pin and separate the piston from the connecting rod.

4 Assemble the pistons in reverse order. 5 If new rings are to be fitted to the original

pistons, expand the old rings over the top of the pistons by using three old feeler blades to prevent the rings dropping into empty grooves. 6 Before fitting the new rings, insert each of them into the cylinder bore approximately

15.0 mm from the bottom and check that the end gaps are as specified (see illustration). 7 When fitting the rings to the pistons, ensure that the TOP markings face towards the

piston crown and arrange the end gaps at 120° intervals (see illustration). Using a feeler blade, check that the clearance of each ring in its groove is within the limits specified (see

illustration).

24 Oil pump - examination and

renovation

Note: The manufacturer does not supply any clearances for checking oil pump gear wear, so the pump must be assumed to be in good order provided that oil pressure is as specified. Pressure can only be checked with the engine assembled and the task should be entrusted to a VW garage. A visual examination of the oil pump can be made as follows:

1 Using an Allen key, unscrew the relief valve plug and extract the spring and plunger (see

illustrations). 2 Using an impact screwdriver, remove the

cross-head screws and withdraw the cover from the pump (see illustration). 3 Remove the rotors, noting that the indentation on the outer rotor faces the cover (see illustrations).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•13

22.6 Core plugs in cylinder block

23.2 Indentations on big-end bearings

(arrowed) must face same way as arrow on

piston crown

23.6 Checking piston ring gaps 23.7a Space ring gaps at 120° intervals 23.7b Checking piston ring-to-groove wall clearance

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Page 54

4 Clean the components in paraffin and wipe dry, then examine them for wear and damage. If evident, renew the oil pump complete but if in good order, reassemble the pump in reverse order and tighten the screws and plug.

25 Flywheel - examination and

renovation

1 A damaged flywheel must be renewed. 2 Inspect the starter ring teeth. If these are

chipped or worn it is possible to renew the starter ring. This means heating the ring until it may be separated from the flywheel, or

alternatively splitting it. A new ring must then be shrunk on. If you know how to do this and you can get a new ring, then the job can be done but it is beyond the capacity of most owners. 3 Serious scoring on the flywheel clutch facing again requires a new flywheel. Do not attempt to clean the scoring off with a scraper or emery.

26 Timing belt and sprockets -

examination and renovation

1 The timing belt should be renewed as a matter of course at 40 000 miles (60 000 km), see Chapter 1. 2 The full length of the timing belt must be checked for signs of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. 3 The camshaft and crankshaft sprockets do not normally require renewal as wear takes place very slowly.

27 Camshaft - examination and

renovation

Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces, cam lobes and followers for wear. If wear is excessive, renew the camshaft and followers.

Check the camshaft run-out by turning it between fixed centres with a dial gauge on the centre journal. If the run-out exceeds that specified, renew the shaft (see illustration).

28 Engine reassembly - general

information

To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, adhere to the following:

a) Ensure that all components are spotlessly

clean b) Ensure that all oilways are clear c) Ensure lockwashers are fitted where

indicated d) Lubricate all bearings and other working

surfaces thoroughly with clean engine oil

during assembly e) Renew any bolts or studs with damaged

threads. f) Gather together a torque wrench, oil can

and some clean rags g) Obtain a set of engine gaskets and oil

seals, together with a new oil filter

2A•14 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

24.2 Removing oil pump cover . . . 24.3a . . . and rotors 24.3b Outer rotor indentation (arrowed) must face cover

27.2 Checking camshaft run-out

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

24.1a Unscrew relief valve plug . . .

24.1b . . . and remove spring and plunger

Page 55

29 Crankshaft and main

bearings - refitting

1 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and the bearing recesses in the cylinder block and main bearing caps. 2 Press the main bearing shells into the cylinder block and caps and oil them liberally

(see illustration). 3 Where thrustwashers are being refitted

(instead of a shouldered type No 3 main bearing shell, a plain shell is used), smear the washers with grease and stick them into position on the side of the centre main bearing and its cap (see illustration). The washers must be fitted so that their oilways face away from the bearings in the block and cap.

4 Lower the crankshaft into position, then fit the main bearing caps in their previously noted positions (see illustration). Note that the bearing shell lugs are adjacent to each other. 5 Insert the bolts and tighten them evenly to the specified torque. Check that the crankshaft rotates freely then check that the endfloat is within the specified limits by inserting a feeler blade between the centre crankshaft web and the thrustwashers or bearing shoulder, as applicable. 6 Refit the rear oil seal bearing and oil pump and reconnect the connecting rods.

30 Pistons and connecting rods

- refitting

1 As mentioned during removal, the manufacturers recommend that the connecting rod bolts be renewed. Assemble the new bolts to the rods. 2 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and the recesses in the connecting rods and big-end caps. 3 Press the big-end bearing shells into the connecting rods and caps in their correct positions and oil them liberally (see

illustration). 4 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston then

insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1 cylinder (see illustration). With No 1 crankpin at its lowest point, drive the piston carefully into the cylinder with the wooden handle of a

hammer and at the same time, guide the connecting rod into the crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on the piston crown faces the timing belt end of the engine. 5 Fit the big-end bearing cap in its previously noted position then fit the nuts and tighten them evenly to the specified torque. 6 Check that the crankshaft turns freely and use a feeler blade to check that the connecting rod endfloat is within the specified limits. 7 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 3 to 5 for No 4 piston and connecting rod, then turn the crankshaft through half a turn and repeat the procedure for No 2 and 3 pistons. 8 If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the oil pump pick-up tube and strainer, the sump and the cylinder head.

31 Oil pump - refitting

1 Renew the oil seal in the oil pump housing (see illustration). 2 Locate a new gasket on the dowels on the

front of the cylinder block. 3 Locate the oil pump on the block, making sure that the inner rotor engages the flats on the crankshaft. Do not damage the oil seal. 4 Insert the bolts, together with the timing pointer bracket and timing belt guard, then tighten them evenly to the specified torque (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•15

29.2 Fitting centre main bearing shell 29.3 Thrustwasher location on centre main bearing

29.4 Fitting centre main bearing cap

30.3 Correct location of tabs on big-end bearings (arrowed)

30.4 Using a piston ring compressor 31.1 Prising out oil pump oil seal 31.4 Fitted location of oil pump

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Page 56

5 Locate a new gasket on the flange face then fit the pick-up tube and strainer. Insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.

6 Refit the sump, timing belt and sprocket.

32 Sump - refitting

1 If applicable (ie. the engine has been dismantled), refit the crankshaft rear oil seal and housing. 2 Clean the mating faces of the sump and cylinder block.

3 Locate the new gasket on the block (see illustration) then fit the sump. Insert the sump

bolts and tighten them evenly in diagonal sequence to the specified torque. If required, the two bolts at the flywheel end of the sump

can be replaced by socket-headed bolts to facilitate their removal with the engine in the vehicle. Note that the tightening torque for the replacement bolts is 8 Nm (6 Ibf ft). 4 If the engine is in the vehicle, replenish it with oil, fasten the alternator wire to the sump clip and lower the vehicle to the ground.

33 Flywheel - refitting

1 Locate the engine plate on the cylinder block dowels. 2 Clean the mating faces of the flywheel and crankshaft then locate the flywheel in position. Note that the bolt holes only align in one position as they are offset. 3 Apply locking fluid to the threads of new bolts (see illustration) then insert and tighten them in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque while holding the flywheel stationary.

4 Refit the clutch.

34 Cylinder head - reassembly

1 Fit the valves into their correct locations in the cylinder head. 2 Working on each valve at a time, locate the valve spring lower seat in position. 3 Before fitting each valve seal, locate the special plastic sleeve provided in the gasket set over the valve stem in order to prevent damage to the seal (see illustration). 4 Slide each new seal over the valve stem and press it firmly onto the guide using a metal tube (see illustration). Remove the plastic sleeve. 5 Fit the spring and retainer over each valve stem, then compress the spring with the compressor and insert the split collets. Release the compressor and remove it.

6 Refit the camshaft.

35 Camshaft - refitting

1 Smear a little clean engine oil on the lip and outer edge of the camshaft oil seal then drive it squarely into the cylinder head with a block of wood. 2 Oil the camshaft bearing surfaces then slide the camshaft into position, taking care not to damage the oil seal. 3 Fit the distributor flange, together with a new gasket, and tighten the socket-head bolts. 4 Using a feeler blade, check that the camshaft endfloat is as specified. 5 Fit the Woodruff key then fit the sprocket to the camshaft followed by the spacer and bolt. Tighten the bolt while holding the sprocket stationary with a metal bar and two bolts (see

illustration). 6 Fit the cam followers by turning the

camshaft so that the relevant cam lobe peak is pointing away from the valve, then tap the follower between the valve stem and cam and onto the ball-stud. 7 Slide the cam follower clips into the grooves on the ball studs and locate the upper ends on the cam followers (see illustration).

2A•16 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

32.3 Fitting sump gasket 33.3 Applying liquid locking fluid to flywheel bolts

34.3 Locate plastic sleeve on valve stem . . .

34.4 . . . then fit the new oil seal 35.5 Method of tightening camshaft sprocket bolt

35.7 Cam follower clip and groove in ball-stud

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Page 57

8 Adjust the valve clearances. 9 Turn the camshaft so that the indentation in

the sprocket is pointing downwards and in line with the pointer on the timing cover plate

(see illustration). 10 Turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn

clockwise so that the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. 11 Fit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. 12 Using a screwdriver in the coolant pump,

turn the pump anti-clockwise and tension the timing belt until it can just be turned through 90° with the thumb and forefinger midway between the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. 13 Tighten the coolant pump bolts when the belt tension is correct and check the timing marks are still aligned.

14 Fit the dipstick tube to the cylinder block. 15 Fit the timing cover, insert the bolts with

the earth lead and dipstick tube bracket, then tighten the bolts.

16 Press the oil spray tube into the top of the cylinder head. 17 Refit the valve cover with a new gasket, locate the reinforcement strips and tighten the nuts and bolts. 18 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the preliminary procedures given in Section 10.

36 Cylinder head - refitting

1 Position Nos 1 and 4 pistons at TDC then turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that neither of the pistons is at TDC. 2 Ensure that the faces of the cylinder head and block are perfectly clean then locate the new gasket on the block, making sure that all oil and coolant holes are visible. The gasket part number should be uppermost (see

illustration). 3 Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket

then insert the bolts together with the engine lifting hooks. 4 Using a splined key, tighten the bolts in the stages given in Specifications, using the sequence shown (see illustration).

5 Refit the coolant pump, if applicable. 6 Fit the timing cover plate and insert the

coolant pump bolts loosely.

7 If required, refit the camshaft. 8 Refit and tighten the timing cover plate

upper retaining bolt. 9 If applicable, refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt to the crankshaft (see

illustration). 10 Turn the camshaft so that the indentation

in the sprocket is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover plate. 11 Turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn clockwise so that the notch in the crankshaft pulley (temporarily refit if necessary) is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. 12 Fit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. 13 Using a screwdriver in the coolant pump, turn the pump anti-clockwise and tension the timing belt until it can just be turned through 90° with the thumb and forefinger midway between the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump (see illustration). 14 Tighten the coolant pump bolts when the tension is correct and check that the timing marks are still aligned.

15 Fit the dipstick tube to the cylinder block. 16 Fit the timing cover, insert the bolts with

the earth lead and dipstick tube bracket and tighten the bolts. 17 Refit the valve cover with a new gasket, locate the reinforcement strips and tighten the nuts and bolts. 18 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the preliminary procedures given in Section 9.

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•17

35.9 Camshaft sprocket (later type) with

index mark aligned with timing cover TDC

pointer

36.2 Correct fitting of cylinder head gasket

36.4 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

36.9 Fitting crankshaft sprocket and timing belt

36.13 Tensioning timing belt

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Page 58

37 Timing belt and sprockets -

refitting

1 Fit the Woodruff key in the crankshaft and tap the sprocket into position . 2 Insert the bolt and tighten it to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary with a lever in the starter ring gear. 3 Fit the Woodruff key to the camshaft then fit the sprocket followed by the spacer and bolt. Tighten the bolt while holding the sprocket stationary with a metal bar and two bolts. 4 Locate the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket then fit the pulley. Insert the bolts and tighten them with an Allen key. 5 Turn the camshaft so that the indentation in the sprocket is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover plate. Check that the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump 6 Fit the timing belt to the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. 7 Using a screwdriver in the coolant pump, turn the pump anti-clockwise and tension the timing belt until it can just be turned through 90° with the thumb and forefinger midway between the camshaft sprocket and coolant pump. 8 Tighten the coolant pump bolts when the belt tension is correct and check that the timing marks are still aligned. 9 Fit the timing cover, insert the bolts with the earth lead and dipstick tube bracket, then tighten the bolts. 10 If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the preliminary procedures given in Section 12.

38 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

1 The valve clearances can be checked and adjusted with the cylinder head removed (prior to refitting after overhaul) or in the normal manner described in Section 12 of Chapter 1. 2 There are two specified valve clearance settings, these being for a cold (cylinder head removed) or warm (engine in vehicle) engine condition. 3 If the valve clearances are adjusted with the engine cold, recheck the clearances again after 600 miles (900 km) with the engine at its normal operating temperature.

39 Engine ancillary components

and gearbox - refitting

Refer to Section 8 and refit the listed

ancillary components.

Refit the gearbox to the engine, reversing

the procedures described in Section 6.

40 Engine - refitting

Reverse the removal procedure given in Section 5 but note the following additional points:

a) When lowering the engine/gearbox unit

into the vehicle, ensure that the driveshafts are aligned with the flanges

b) Assemble the engine mountings loosely

initially and tighten them only after the unit is central without straining the mountings (see illustrations)

c) Adjust the clutch d) Adjust the accelerator cable and, where

applicable, the choke cable

e) Refill the engine with oil and coolant

41 Engine - adjustments after

major overhaul

1 With the engine/gearbox unit fitted to the vehicle, make a final check to ensure that everything has been reconnected and that no rags or tools have been left in the engine compartment. 2 If new pistons or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, turn the carburettor engine speed screw in about half a turn to compensate for the initial tightness of the new components. 3 Fully pull out the choke (manual choke models) and start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor float chamber may be empty. 4 As soon as the engine starts, push in the choke to the detent. Check that the oil pressure light goes out. 5 Check the oil filter, fuel hoses and coolant hoses for leaks. 6 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then adjust the slow running (idle). 7 If new pistons or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles (750 km). Do not operate the engine at full throttle or allow the engine to labour in any gear. 8 Although not strictly essential, it is good practice to change the engine oil and filter after the initial running-in period. This will get rid of the small metallic particles which are produced by new components bedding in to each other.

2A•18 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

40.1a Engine mounting bolt identification see Specifications for torque settings

40.1b Engine/transmission mounting bolt identification see Specifications for torque settings

Page 59

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 2 Part B:

Engine repair procedures -

1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

The following information is a revision of, or supplementary to, that contained in Part A of this Chapter

General

Code:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HZ

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MH

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NZ

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2G

Cylinder head

Minimum dimension after machining (skimming) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135.6 mm

Camshaft

Maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 mm

Maximum radial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Valves

Maximum seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 mm

Head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mm

Valve length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98.9 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99.1 mm

Hydraulic tappets

Maximum free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift MH/NZ/2G HZ

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12°ATDC 5°ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28°ABDC 29°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25°BBDC 33°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9°BTDC 9°BTDC

Camshaft - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hydraulic bucket tappets - checking free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Oil pump - removal and examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 60

Lubrication system

Pump gear teeth backlash:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Pump gear teeth axial play (wear limit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Pump chain drive deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59.0

Timing belt cover:

Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14.7

Camshaft bearing cap nuts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4.4

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 90°

Number 5 cap screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 29.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44.3

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 180°

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14.7

Stay bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Strainer assembly to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Socket-headed screws in sump (new) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5.9

Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled) - 1986-on:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 180°

Flywheel bolt (with shoulder) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

1 General information

The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines produced since August 1985 have a redesigned cylinder head which incorporates hydraulic “bucket” type tappets in place of the previously fitted “rocker finger” tappets.

The oil pump has also been changed from the previously fitted crescent type to a gear type which is driven by chain from the crankshaft.

Additionally, different ancillary components are fitted such as the carburettor and distributor.

Unless otherwise given in the following Sections, all servicing procedures are as given in Part A of this Chapter for the pre-August 1985 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines.

2 Cylinder head - removal

The procedure for removing the cylinder head is basically the same as described in Part A of this Chapter but note the following:

a) The valve cover is different, being held in

place by three bolts

(see illustration)

b) There is a plastic oil shield located at the

distributor end of the engine (see

illustration)

c) The fuel and coolant pipes differ,

depending on model

d) Spring type re-usable hose clips may be

fitted. These are removed by pinching the ends together to expand the clip and then sliding it down the hose

e) The clips on the fuel hoses are designed

to be used only once, so obtain new ones or replace them with screw type clips

3 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

1 This is a straightforward task if the camshaft is removed but it is possible to renew the oil seal without removing the camshaft.

2 A VW special tool exists for this job (see illustration) but if it is not available, the old

seal will have to be removed by securing self-tapping screws into it and pulling it out with pliers. Note which way round it is fitted. 3 Whichever method is used, the timing cover and camshaft sprocket will have to be removed. Slacken the coolant pump bolts to release the tension in the timing belt. 4 Lightly oil the new seal and slide onto the camshaft. Use a suitable socket and a bolt in the end of the shaft to press the new seal home. Push it in as far as it will go.

2B•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

2.1a Valve cover 2.1b Plastic oil shield 3.2 Renewing camshaft oil seal using VW tool 2085

Page 61

4 Camshaft - removal

1 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips. 2 Turn the engine until the indentation in the camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. Now turn the crankshaft one quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are at TDC. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover.

4 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. 5 Devise a method to prevent the camshaft turning and remove the sprocket bolt (see illustration). Remove the camshaft sprocket and where applicable, the Woodruff key. 6 The camshaft bearing caps must be refitted in their original locations and the same way round. They are usually numbered but mark them if necessary, to ensure correct refitting. 7 Remove bearing caps Nos 5, 1 and 3, in that order. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern and the camshaft will lift them up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted. When they are free, lift the caps off. 8 If the caps are stuck, give them a sharp tap with a soft-faced mallet to loosen them. Do not try to lever them off with a screwdriver. 9 Lift out the camshaft complete with the oil seal.

5 Cylinder head - dismantling

and overhaul

Caution: If new tappets are fitted, the engine must not be started after fitting for approximately 30 minutes, or the valves will strike the pistons.

Cylinder head

1 If the valve seats are badly pitted or eroded they can be reworked but this is a specialist

job best left to a VW dealer or engine overhaul specialist. 2 Similarly, if the head is warped, its surfaces can be skimmed, again by specialist engineers. 3 If it is found that there are cracks from the valve seats or valve seat inserts to the spark plug threads, the cylinder head may still be serviceable. Consult your VW dealer for advice.

Hydraulic bucket tappets

4 With the camshaft removed, lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores (see illustration). 5 Place them, cam contact surface down, on a clean sheet of paper as they are removed. 6 Inspect the tappets for wear (indicated by ridging on the clean surface), pitting and cracks. 7 Tappets cannot be repaired and if worn, must be renewed. 8 Before fitting the tappets, lubricate all parts liberally with clean engine oil and slip each tappet back into its original bore.

Valves

9 With the camshaft and tappets removed, use a valve spring compressor with a deep reach to compress the valve springs. Remove the two cotters and release the compressor and springs.

10 Lift out the upper spring seat (see illustration). 11 Remove the outer and inner valve springs (see illustrations). 12 Lift out the valve (see illustration). 13 The valves should be inspected as

described in Part A of this Chapter, Section

11. 14 Valves must be renewed if they are worn and be ground in the normal manner. 15 If possible, check the valve spring lengths against new ones. Renew the whole set if any are too short. 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Valve stem oil seals

17 The valve stem oil seals should be renewed whenever the valves are removed, by prising them from the ends of the valve guides (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•3

4.5 Two lengths of metal used to lock camshaft sprocket

5.4 Removing an hydraulic bucket tappet 5.10 Removing valve spring upper seat

5.11a Removing an outer valve spring 5.11b Removing an inner valve spring 5.12 Removing a valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 62

18 With the seals removed, the lower spring seats can also be lifted out for cleaning. Press the new seals onto the ends of the valve guides.

6 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

As from August 1986, the crankshaft sprocket incorporates a lug for engagement with the groove in the crankshaft, replacing the Woodruff key arrangement described in Part A if this Chapter.

When tightening the crankshaft sprocket bolt, observe the specified stages.

7 Oil pump - removal and

examination

Note: The oil pump can be removed with the engine still in the vehicle

1 Drain the engine oil. 2 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe and the

inboard end of the right-hand driveshaft to permit sump removal.

3 Remove the sump. 4 If it is only desired to check backlash in the

pump gears, this can be done by removing the cover and strainer assembly from the back of the pump (see illustration).

5 Check backlash and axial play against the specified tolerances (see illustrations). 6 If the tolerances are exceeded then the oil pump must be renewed. 7 To remove the pump, first remove the following components:

a) Camshaft drivebelt (timing belt) b) Alternator drivebelt c) Crankshaft pulley d) Lower timing belt cover e) Front cover and TDC setting bracket

8 If they are still in position, remove the bolts holding the rear stay bracket. 9 Remove the two bolts holding the pump to the cylinder block. 10 This will release the tension on the chain and allow the pump to be removed. 11 If sufficient slack in the chain cannot be achieved by this method, then slide the pump, chain and crankshaft drive sprocket forward together.

12 Check the chain and teeth of the drive sprockets and renew any parts which are worn. 13 If a new pump is being fitted, renew all associated parts at the same time.

8 Camshaft - examination

1 Clean the camshaft in solvent, then inspect its journals and cam peaks for pitting, scoring, cracking and wear. 2 The camshaft bearings are machined directly into the cylinder head and the bearing caps. 3 Radial play in the bearings can be measured using the Plastigage method. Compare the results with the specified dimension.

4 If wear is evident, consult your VW dealer. 5 To check camshaft endfloat, refit the

camshaft using only number 3 bearing cap. 6 Set up a dial test indicator or use feeler blades to measure the endfloat (see illustration). If the endfloat is greater than that specified, consult your VW dealer.

2B•4 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

5.17 A valve stem oil seal

7.5a Checking oil pump backlash 7.5b Checking oil pump axial play 8.6 Measuring camshaft endfloat

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

7.4 Oil pump components

1 Oil pump 2 Chain 3 Gasket

4 Cover 5 Oil seal 6 TDC bracket

Page 63

9 Oil pump - refitting

Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear in

mind the following points:

a) Use new gaskets on all components. b) Lubricate all new parts liberally with clean

engine oil.

c) If the small plug in the front cover is at all

damaged, renew it.

d) Fit a new crankshaft oil seal to the cover.

The oil seal can be prised out and a new one pressed fully home.

e) The chain is tensioned by moving the

pump housing against its mounting bolts.

f) With light finger pressure exerted on the

chain, deflection should be as specified (see illustration).

g) Whenever the sump is removed with the

engine in situ, the two hexagon screws in the sealing flange at the flywheel end should be replaced by socket-headed screws and spring washers, and tightened to the specified torque setting.

10 Camshaft - refitting

1 Lubricate the bucket tappets, the camshaft journals and the camshaft liberally with clean engine oil. 2 Place the camshaft in position on the cylinder head (see illustration).

3 Fit a new camshaft oil seal (see illustration). 4 Refit the bearing caps, ensuring that they

are the right way and in their correct position (they should be numbered 1 to 5, readable from the exhaust manifold side of the head). 5 Thread on the cap retaining nuts loosely, then tighten the nuts on Nos. 2 and 4 caps in a diagonal sequence to the Stage 1 torque figure specified (see illustration). 6 Tighten the nuts on caps 1, 3 and 5 to the Stage 1 torque. 7 Once all nuts have been tightened to the Stage 1 torque, tighten all nuts a further 90° (Stage 2). Fit and tighten No. 5 cap screws to the correct torque.

8 Refit the Woodruff key into its slot in the camshaft, where applicable. Fit the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 9 If the work is being carried out in the engine compartment, follow the procedure given in Part A of this Chapter, Section 35, paragraphs 9 to 18. 10 Ignore any reference to the oil spray tube and be sure to refit the oil shield at the distributor end of the camshaft before the valve cover is refitted. 11 If the cylinder head is out of the vehicle, it will obviously have to be refitted before the timing belt can be reconnected.

11 Cylinder head - refitting

1 Clean all traces of old gasket from the cylinder block and cylinder head faces, taking great care not to mark the gasket surfaces.

2 Using a new gasket, fit the inlet manifold (see illustrations).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•5

10.3 Camshaft oil seal 10.5 Tightening a camshaft bearing cap nut

10.8 Fitting the camshaft sprocket bolt

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

9.1 Checking oil pump drive chain tension

10.2 Refitting the camshaft

Page 64

3 If they have been removed, refit the oil

pressure switches, using new copper sealing washers (see illustration). 4 Refit the thermostat housing, using a new O-ring (see illustration).

5 Refit the coolant hoses, ensuring that they are connected up in the correct position (see

illustration). 6 Lubricate the fuel pump plunger with clean

engine oil and slip it into its housing in the

cylinder head (see illustration). 7 Refit the fuel pump and fit and tighten the bolts, not forgetting the engine lifting eye (see

illustrations). 8 Slide the distributor into position and ensure that it goes fully home (see illustration). Hand-tighten the retaining bolts. 9 Fit the distributor rotor arm (see illustration). 10 Fit the distributor cap and connect up the earth lead (see illustration). 11 Check the timing marks on the cylinder

head and camshaft sprocket are lined up. 12 Note that none of the pistons should be at TDC when refitting the cylinder head. 13 Position a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block (see illustration). 14 Lower the cylinder head gently into position. Special guides are used by the manufacturer both to line up the gasket and

2B•6 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

11.2a Fitting a new inlet manifold gasket 11.2b Fitting inlet manifold complete with carburettor

11.3 Refitting oil pressure switch

11.8 Refitting ignition distributor 11.9 Fitting rotor arm 11.10 Fitting distributor cap and earth lead

11.6 Fitting fuel pump plunger (arrowed) 11.7a Fitting fuel pump

11.4 O-ring (arrowed) in thermostat housing

11.5 Coolant hoses in position

11.7b Location of engine lifting eye

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 65

guide the cylinder head into position but this can be done using suitable sized rods inserted in two cylinder head bolt holes. 15 Install the cylinder head bolts. Refer to Part A of this Chapter for the tightening sequence but use the torque figures and stages given in the Specifications of this Chapter. 16 It is not necessary to retighten the bolts after a period of service, as is normally the case.

17 Refit the plastic oil shield (see illustration). 18 Using a new rubber sealing gasket

properly located over the dowels, refit the valve cover (see illustration).

19 Fit a new gasket to the exhaust manifold (see illustration). 20 Fit the exhaust manifold, tightening its nuts securely, then fit the hot air shroud (see illustration).

21 Connect up the exhaust downpipe and

any other exhaust brackets loosened during removal. 22 Refit all remaining hoses of the cooling system and fuel system, referring to the relevant Chapter where necessary. 23 Refit all electrical connections disturbed during dismantling (distributor, carburettor, oil pressure and coolant temperature switches, inlet manifold preheater, etc.) (see illustrations). Do not forget the earth lead under the inlet manifold nut.

24 Refit the distributor vacuum hose. 25 With reference to Part A of this Chapter,

Section 37, refit the timing belt and covers.

26 Refit the throttle cable. 27 Refit the spark plugs, air cleaner and

associated pipework and electrical leads. 28 Check oil and coolant levels, replenishing as necessary, then adjust the ignition timing.

12 Hydraulic bucket tappets -

checking free travel

1 Start the engine and run it until the radiator cooling fan has switched on once. 2 Increase engine speed to about 2500 rpm for about two minutes. 3 Irregular noises are normal when starting but should become quiet after a few minutes running. 4 If the valves are still noisy, carry out the following check to identify worn tappets. 5 Stop the engine and remove the valve cover from the cylinder head. 6 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley securing bolt, until the cam of the tappet to be checked is facing upward and is not exerting any pressure on the tappet.

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•7

11.13 Cylinder head gasket in position 11.17 Plastic oil shield correctly located 11.18 Locating dowel for valve cover gasket (arrowed)

11.23b Coolant temperature

switch/sender electrical connection

11.23c Oil pressure switch electrical connection

11.23d Earth lead under inlet manifold bolt head

11.19 Fitting a new exhaust manifold gasket

11.20 Fitting hot air shroud 11.23a Ignition distributor electrical connection

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 66

7 Press the tappet down using a wooden or plastic wedge (see illustration). 8 If free travel of the tappet exceeds that specified, the tappet must be renewed.

13 Engine - adjustments after

major overhaul

If the valve tappets have been renewed, it is essential that no attempt to restart the engine is made for a minimum period of 30 minutes after installation. Failure to observe this precaution may result in engine damage caused by the valves contacting the pistons.

2B•8 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

12.7 Checking hydraulic tappet free travel

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 67

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 2 Part C:

Engine repair pr ocedur es - 1.6 and 1.8 litr e 8 valve

General

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder in-line, water cooled, overhead camshaft

Code:

1.6 litre:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EZ

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RF

1.8 litre:

Jetronic - fuel injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EV

Carburettor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GU

GTi - January 1987 on:

Without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PB, GU

With catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH, RP, PF

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at camshaft sprocket end)

Displacement:

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1595 cc

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1781 cc

Bore:

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.0 mm

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.0 mm

Stroke:

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.4 mm

1.8 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.4 mm

Compression ratio:

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 to 1

1.8 litre

Code RP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 to 1

All other codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 to 1

Camshaft - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . 22

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Cylinder block/crankcase - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 23

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Engine ancillary components refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Engine/gearbox - separation and reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Flywheel/driveplate - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hydraulic bucket tappets - checking free travel (from August 1985) . . 38

Intermediate shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Intermediate shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Intermediate shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Major operations only possible after removal of engine from vehicle . . 3

Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Oil cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Oil filter mounting - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . . 24

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Sump and oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Timing belt and sprockets - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 28

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment (pre August 1985) . . .33

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 68

Compression pressure:

1.6 litre:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 bar

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 bar

Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . 3.0 bar

1.8 litre:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 13 bar

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 bar

Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . 3.0 bar

Crankshaft

Main journal:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.0 mm

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.75, 53.50 and 53.25 mm

Crankpin:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.80 mm

Journal undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.55, 47.30 and 47.05 mm

Endfloat:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Main bearing maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end:

Maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.012 mm

Maximum endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.37 mm

Pistons

Clearance in bore:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm

Diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.98 mm

Oversize:

1st oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.23 mm

2nd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81.48 mm

Wear limit (10 mm from base/ right angles to pin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm

Piston rings

Maximum clearance in groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

End gap:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm

Oil scraper ring:

1 part . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm

2 part . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

3 part . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.50 mm

Maximum end gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Gudgeon pin

Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Push fit at 60°C

Intermediate shaft

Maximum endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Cylinder head

Maximum allowable face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Minimum height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.6 mm

Camshaft

Run-out at centre bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 mm

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Valves

Seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Head diameter:

Inlet:

Codes PB, PF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.0 mm

All other codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.0 mm

2C•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 69

Stem diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.97 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.95 mm

Standard overall length*:

Inlet:

Codes EZ, EV, GU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98.70 mm

All other codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm

Exhaust:

Codes EZ, EV, GU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98.50 mm

Codes PB, PF, RP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.95 mm

All other codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.80 mm

* Caution:

Check with manufacturer on valve dimensions before renewing

Valve guides

Maximum valve rock (stem flush with guide):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm

Hydraulic tappets

Maximum free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift

1.6 litre (code EZ - shim bucket tappets):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

1.6 litre (code EZ - hydraulic tappets - August 1985 to March 1986):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° BTDC

1.6 litre (code EZ - hydraulic tappets - March 1986 on):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

1.6 litre (code RF):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

1.8 litre (code GU - shim bucket tappets)

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° ATDC

1.8 litre (code GU - hydraulic tappets - August 1985 to March 1986

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° BTDC

1.8 litre (code GU - hydraulic tappets - March 1986 on):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.8 litre (code EV):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.8 litre (codes PB, PF):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° ATDC

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•3

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 70

Valve timing (continued)

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift

1.8 litre (code RH):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.8 litre (code RP - pre July 1988):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° BTDC

1.8 litre (code RP - August 1988 on):

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1° BTDC

Valve clearances

Warm:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.30 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 m

Cold:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.25 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 to 0.45 mm

Lubrication

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wet sump, pressure feed, full flow filter

Lubricant type/specification/capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”

Filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101/C160

Pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Twin gear, driven by intermediate shaft together with distributor

Pressure (2000 rpm with oil temperature 80°C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar minimum

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine to gearbox:

M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Clutch pressure plate/washer bolts (renew) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Connecting rod big-end cap nuts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Further tighten 1/4 turn (90°)

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil filter flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Front seal flange bolts: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Small . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Large . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Intermediate shaft flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Camshaft bearing cap nuts (in sequence) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Valve cover nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Belt tensioner pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 148

Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

V-belt pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Rear cover lower bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Rear cover top bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Distributor clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

2C•4 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 71

1 General information

The 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8-valve engines are of four-cylinder, in-line, overhead camshaft design, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle. The transmission is attached to the flywheel end of the engine.

The crankshaft is of five main bearing type, its endfloat being controlled by a shouldered centre bearing or by half thrustwashers located each side of the centre bearing.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt which is tensioned by a tensioner on an eccentric bearing. On engines manufactured before August 1985, the valves are operated by bucket type cam followers in direct contact with the camshaft. From August 1985, all engines are fitted with a redesigned cylinder head incorporating hydraulic bucket tappets in place of the previous shim bucket tappets. Camshaft bearing No. 4 is deleted on all single camshaft engines. In order to identify the type of tappets fitted, a sticker is normally affixed to the valve cover indicating that valve clearance adjustment is neither necessary nor possible.

An intermediate shaft (driven by the toothed timing belt) drives the distributor and oil pump and on carburettor equipped engines, the fuel pump.

The oil pump is of twin gear type, driven from the immediate shaft and incorporates a pressure relief valve.

The aluminium cylinder head is of conventional design with the inlet and exhaust manifolds mounted on the rear side (as viewed with the engine in the vehicle).

The crankcase ventilation system comprises a hose from the flywheel end of the valve cover to the side of the air cleaner.

On fuel injection equipped engines, there is a hose to the air inlet manifold and a hose to the air cleaner from a three-way connector on the valve cover.

2 Major operations possible

with engine in vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the vehicle:

a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder

head, camshaft and timing belt

b) Renewal of the crankshaft rear oil seal

(after removal of the transmission,

driveplate or clutch as applicable) c) Removal of the sump and oil pump d) Removal of the piston/connecting rod

assemblies (after removal of the cylinder

head and sump) e) Renewal of the crankshaft front oil seal,

intermediate shaft front oil seal and

camshaft front oil seal f) Renewal of the engine mountings

3 Major operations only

possible after removal of engine from vehicle

The following operations can only be carried out after removal of the engine from the vehicle:

a) Renewal of crankshaft main bearings b) Removal and refitting of the crankshaft c) Removal and refitting of the intermediate

shaft

4 Method of engine removal

1 The engine, together with the gearbox,

must be lifted from the engine compartment, then the engine separated from the gearbox on the bench. Two people will be needed. 2 A hoist of 150 kg capacity will be needed to lift the engine approximately 1 metre. If the hoist is not portable and the engine is lifted, then sufficient room must be left behind the vehicle to push it back out of the way so that the engine may be lowered. Blocks will be needed to support the engine after removal . 3 Ideally, the vehicle should be over a pit. If this is not possible then the body must be supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) so that the front wheels may be turned to undo the driveshaft nuts. The left-hand shaft is accessible from above but the right-hand shaft must be undone from underneath. Removal of the gearshift linkage can only be done from underneath, as can exhaust downpipe-to-manifold detachment. 4 The exhaust downpipe-to-manifold flange connection is secured by special spring clips rather than bolts or studs and nuts. When

disconnecting and reconnecting the joint, it will be necessary to use VW tool no. 3049A. Without this tool, detachment and certainly reconnection of the joint and clips is virtually impossible, so make arrangements to borrow or hire the tool in advance. 5 The only other special tools required will be a set of splined key wrenches which will be needed to remove and refit the socket-head bolts used to secure certain items such as the cylinder head bolts. 6 Draining of oil and coolant is best done away from the working area if possible. This saves the mess made by spilled oil in the place where you must work. 7 Although not listed as an optional fitting on UK models, an air conditioning system may have been fitted. Where this is the case, the following precautions must be taken when handling refrigerant lines or system components:

a) Do not stress or bend flexible hose lines

to a radius of less than 101 mm

b) Flexible hose lines must be correctly

located, must not chafe against adjacent components and must be kept well clear of the exhaust manifold and downpipe

c) All metal tubing lines must be kept free of

kinks and must be handled with care

d) Do not disconnect any of the air

conditioning supply lines

e) Do not weld or apply heat in the vicinity of

the air conditioning lines or equipment

f) If any part of the system is to be detached

then it must first be depressurised by your VW dealer or a competent air conditioning systems engineer. The only exception is the removal and fitting of the compressor drivebelt which can be achieved in the same manner as for the alternator drivebelt

5 Engine - removal

Carburettor equipped

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the bonnet. 3 Drain the engine coolant. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the

engine, undo the sump drain plug and drain the engine oil - see Chapter 1. On completion clean the drain plug and refit it. Renew the O-ring.

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•5

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Cylinder head bolts (engine cold) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . As for 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

Refer to illustration 5.25b. Also 40.1a and 40.1b in Part A of this Chapter.

a) M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

a) M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

b) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

c) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

d) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

e) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

f) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

g) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

* When checking the connecting rod-to-crankshaft journal radial clearance using Plastigage, tighten only to 30Nm (22 lbf ft).

Page 72

5 Remove the radiator, together with the cooling fan. On models manufactured after 1986, remove the front panel before removing the radiator. 6 Remove the air cleaner unit then disconnect the throttle cable at the carburettor. Position the cable out of the way. 7 Where power steering is fitted, remove the hydraulic pump drivebelt. Unbolt the pump, belt tensioner and fluid reservoir and tie them to one side of the engine compartment. 8 Disconnect the following wiring connections, identifying each lead as it is detached to avoid confusion on reassembly:

a) Alternator lead b) Oil pressure switch lead(s) at cylinder head

(see illustrations) and oil filter bracket

c) Inlet manifold preheater thermo-switch

lead

d) Choke cover thermo-switch lead (where

applicable) e) Ignition HT and LT leads f) Choke cover lead separate connector g) Coolant temperature sender unit lead h) Earth strap to gearbox (see illustration)

and multi-function switch to gearbox i) Starter motor leads

9 Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump and the fuel return hose (to the fuel tank). Plug the hoses to prevent fuel leakage. 10 Disconnect the coolant and heater hoses from the engine.

11 On manual gearbox models, disconnect the clutch cable. 12 Disconnect the following items from around the carburettor. Identify the connections where necessary to avoid confusion on reassembly:

a) Thermotime valve b) Idle/overrun cut-off valve c) Inlet manifold preheater separator

connector

d) Part throttle channel heater separate

connector

13 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission. 14 Disconnect and remove the vacuum reservoir.

15 Disconnect the brake vacuum servo hoses and the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold. 16 Undo and remove the gearbox mounting bolt. 17 Raise and support the vehicle on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), allowing sufficient clearance to work underneath.

18 Disconnect the manual gearbox linkage. 19 On automatic transmission models, select

P (Park) then disconnect the throttle and selector cables from the transmission. 20 Disconnect the driveshafts from the gearbox and tie them up out of the way. 21 To disconnect the exhaust manifold to downpipe connection, VW tool no. 3049A will be required. Although it may be possible to prise the clips free to separate this joint, the tool will definitely be required to refit the springs. 22 The vehicle can now be lowered, the remaining removal operations being from above. 23 Attach a suitable sling and hoist to the engine/gearbox unit and take its weight. 24 Disconnect the rear engine bearer by undoing the three bolts (see illustration). 25 The engine/gearbox unit front mounting must now be detached by unscrewing and removing the single through-bolt. It may be necessary to further lift, lower or twist the unit to allow the through-bolt to be withdrawn (see illustration). Note that from December 1984, the front mounting is changed from the bonded rubber type to a ‘hydro’ type with damping action (see illustration).

2C•6 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

5.8a Oil pressure switch location in rear of cylinder head

5.8b Oil pressure switch location in filter mounting

5.8c Earth strap to gearbox

5.24 Engine rear bearer 5.25a Engine/gearbox unit front mounting

5.25b Hydro-type front engine mounting

Refer to Specifications for fastener torque wrench settings b, e and f

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 73

26 The engine/gearbox unit is now ready for lifting out but first make a final check that all cables, wiring and hoses are clear. 27 Have an assistant at hand to help guide the unit clear of the surrounding components in the engine compartment as it is lifted out. The unit will have to be twisted slightly as it is raised. Once clear of the vehicle, lower it to the work surface.

Fuel injection equipped

28 On fuel injection equipped engines, the removal procedure closely follows that given for carburettor equipped engines. However, disregard those items concerning detachment of the carburettor and associated items. The following injection equipment items will need to be disconnected instead. Refer to Chapter 4 for further details: 29 Disconnect the wires from the warm-up valve (green connector) (see illustration). 30 Disconnect the wiring to the cold start valve (blue connector). 31 Disconnect the wiring to the auxiliary air valve. 32 Disconnect the throttle cable at the fast idle cam and bracket but do not remove the securing clip (see illustration). 33 Remove the cold start valve but leave the fuel lines connected. Place out of the way. 34 Disconnect the air inlet pipe at the flexible ducting attached to the throttle housing. 35 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold and vacuum booster. 36 Leaving the fuel lines connected, undo the retaining bolts and withdraw the warm-up valve from the cylinder block. Position out of the way. 37 Detach the injectors from the cylinder head and plug the holes. Disconnect the injector lines from the locating bracket on the throttle housing and fold them out of the way. 38 Detach the vacuum hoses to the throttle housing T-piece connector location clip at the

bulkhead. Fold the hoses back out of the way. 39 Disconnect the oil temperature switch sender lead (see illustration). 40 When lifting out the engine/gearbox unit, greater care will have to be taken in manoeuvring the unit from the engine

compartment due to the close proximity of the air inlet manifold to the bulkhead. The unit will need to be pulled forwards first then twisted and lifted.

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•7

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

5.29 Wiring connections to be detached - fuel injection models

1 Alternator 2 Warm-up valve 3 1.8 bar oil pressure

switch

4 Oil temperature sender

5 Distributor HT cable

(terminal 4) 6 Hall sender (distributor) 7 Vacuum switch 8 Coolant temperature

sender

9 Thermotime switch 10 0.3 bar oil pressure

switch 11 Cold start valve 12 Auxiliary air valve

5.32 Fuel injection components to be detached

1 Throttle cable 2 Cold start valve

3 Vacuum hoses 4 Air intake pipe

5 Injectors

5.39 Oil temperature sender (arrowed)

Page 74

6 Engine/gearbox - separation

and reconnection

This procedure is fully described in Chapter 7, Parts A or B, as applicable. It is only necessary to refer to those paragraphs pertinent to the particular method being used. The engine must be supported on blocks, or alternatively the gearbox can be separated with the engine still on the hoist.

7 Engine dismantling - general

information

Refer to Section 7 in Part A of this Chapter.

8 Engine ancillary components

- removal

With the engine removed from the vehicle and separated from the transmission, the externally mounted ancillary components can be removed prior to engine dismantling. The removal sequence need not necessarily follow the order given:

a) Alternator and drivebelt b) Inlet manifold and carburettor or inlet

manifold and throttle housing (fuel

injection) c) Exhaust manifold d) Fuel pump e) Warm-up valve (fuel injection), if still

attached f) Distributor g) Oil filter with cooler (where applicable)

and filter mounting h) Oil pressure and coolant temperature and

sensor switches

I) Coolant pump and coolant hose

connectors from cylinder block and head. New O-rings will be required

j) Clutch then intermediate plate (manual

gearbox)

k) Driveplate, noting location of spacer and

shim(s) (automatic transmission)

9 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

1 If the engine is still in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Disconnect the battery earth lead b) Remove the alternator drivebelt c) Unbolt and remove the coolant pump

pulley

2 Depending on type, undo the retaining bolt(s)/nut(s), release the retaining clips and remove the upper timing cover (see illustration). On some engines it will be necessary to remove the bung from the front

2C•8 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

9.2 Timing belt and cover components

Page 75

face of the cover to allow access to the Allen type retaining screw recessed within the cover. On other engines, the retaining screw can be seen but its key slot is deeply recessed (access to it being made via the hole in the centre of the screw surround). 3 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips. Detach the crankcase emission hose(s) from the rocker cover. 4 Mark the relative positions of the crankshaft pulley and crankshaft sprocket, then undo the four socket-head bolts and withdraw the pulley. 5 Unbolt and withdraw the lower timing cover. 6 The engine must now be set for timing. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley. On the intermediate sprocket for the timing belt one tooth has a centre-punch mark. Turn the engine until this mates with a notch on the V-belt pulley bolted to the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration). To turn the engine over, remove the spark plugs then fit a suitable spanner onto the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and turn it in the direction of engine rotation. 7 When these marks match, look at the sprocket on the camshaft. One tooth of this has a centre-punch mark. This should be level

with the valve cover flange (see illustration). Having turned the engine until these marks agree, now look at the cams for No 1 cylinder (nearest the timing belt). They will both be in the ‘valve closed’ position (see illustration). Now look through the hole in which the TDC sensor goes where the timing marks show on the periphery of the flywheel and note the reading. 8 Before removing the timing drivebelt, check its correct tension. If held between the finger and thumb halfway between the intermediate shaft and the camshaft it should be just possible to twist it through 90° (see illustration). If it is too slack, adjust it by slackening the bolt holding the eccentric cam on the tensioner wheel. If you are satisfied it can be adjusted to the correct tension, remove it and examine it for wear. Now is the time to order a new one if necessary. 9 Loosen the tensioner then withdraw the timing belt from the camshaft, intermediate and crankshaft sprockets. 10 Each of the timing belt sprockets is secured by a central bolt and washer. The

intermediate, camshaft and crankshaft sprocket (the latter in particular) securing bolts are tightened to a substantial torque and the sprockets will therefore need to be firmly held when undoing the bolts. 11 To remove the camshaft sprocket, unscrew the bolt with the sprocket held stationary by inserting a suitable metal bar through a sprocket hole and resting it on the valve cover face of the cylinder head, but take care not to damage the face. Remove the bolt and spacer washer then withdraw the sprocket, tapping it free if necessary. Check the fit of the Woodruff key in the camshaft, it must be renewed if loose in its groove. Lever out the Woodruff key and keep it with the sprocket. 12 To remove the crankshaft sprocket, hold the crankshaft stationary with a lever jammed in the starter ring gear (remove the starter motor as applicable). Do not allow the crankshaft to turn or the pistons may touch the valve heads. Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove it, together with the spacer washer, then lever the sprocket free from the crankshaft. Check the fit of the Woodruff key (if fitted) in the crankshaft, it must be renewed if loose in its groove. Lever out the Woodruff key and keep it with the crankshaft sprocket. 13 The intermediate shaft sprocket is removed in a similar manner to that for the camshaft sprocket.

10 Camshaft - removal,

examination and refitting

Removal

1 To remove the camshaft with the engine in the vehicle, first carry out the following operations:

a) Remove the timing cover and valve cover,

then disconnect the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•9

9.7b No. 1 cylinder cam lobes in valve closed position

9.8 Timing belt tension check method

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

9.6 Intermediate sprocket timing mark (arrowed) aligned with notch in crankshaft pulley

9.7a Camshaft sprocket timing mark (arrowed) with No 1 cylinder at TDC on compression

Page 76

b) If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed

then the camshaft timing sprocket must be removed

2 Remove the camshaft bearing caps (see illustrations), making a careful note of their

fitted positions for reference when refitting . The caps are numbered (see illustration) but mark the side nearest the front of the cylinder head. No. 1 cap is the one with a small oil seal on it. 3 Remove cap nos. 5, 1 and 3 in that order. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern. The camshaft will lift the caps up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted. When they are free, lift the caps off along with the camshaft. The oil seal on the front end of the camshaft will come with it. Depending on tappet type, proceed as follows:

Shim bucket tappets

4 The tappet buckets are now exposed and may be lifted out (see illustration). Take each one out in turn, prising the little disc out of the bucket by inserting a small screwdriver either side and lifting the disc away. On its reverse, each disc is engraved with a size (eg. 3.75). This is its thickness number. Note the number and then clean the disc and refit it, number side down. There are eight of these and they must not be mixed up. On assembly, each disc must go back into the bore from whence it came. This problem exists also for the valves, so a container for each valve assembly

2C•10 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

10.2a Cylinder head and camshaft components - carburettor engine

10.2b Cylinder head and camshaft components - fuel injection engine

10.4 Tappet bucket and shim

10.2c Camshaft bearing cap number (arrowed)

Page 77

and tappet is required. Label the containers 1 to 8, as follows:

Containers 1 and 2 will be No 1 cylinder exhaust and inlet respectively Containers 3 and 4 will be No 2 cylinder exhaust and inlet respectively Containers 5 and 6 will be No 3 cylinder inlet and exhaust respectively Containers 7 and 8 will be No 4 cylinder inlet and exhaust respectively

5 Note the thickness of all tappet clearance discs from Nos. 1 to 8 for use during reassembly.

Hydraulic bucket tappets

6 Lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores. 7 Place them, cam contact surface down, on a clean sheet of paper as they are removed. 8 Inspect the tappets for wear (indicated by ridging on the clean surface), pitting and cracks. 9 Tappets cannot be repaired and if worn, must be renewed.

Examination

10 Refer to Section 27 in Part A of this Chapter whilst noting that on exchange engines or cylinder heads, the camshaft is supplied with bearing shells instead of running directly in the head and bearing caps. Exchange units supplied by VW may have an undersized camshaft with corresponding bearing shells. Where this is the case, the camshaft will have a yellow paint spot on it and the journal diameter will be 25.75 mm. An unmarked camshaft supplied with bearing shells will be of standard size with a journal diameter of 26.00 mm.

Refitting

11 Refer to Section 12.

11 Cylinder head - removal

All engines

1 If the cylinder head is being removed with the engine out of the vehicle, proceed from paragraph 17. If the cylinder head is being removed with the engine in the vehicle, it is best removed with the inlet and exhaust manifolds. The manifolds can then be detached after removal of the cylinder head but note that a special tool is required to release (and subsequently reconnect) the exhaust downpipe-to-manifold flange retaining clips. A splined key will also be required to undo and tighten the cylinder head bolts. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. Drain the cooling system, then disconnect the cooling and heater hoses from the cylinder head. 3 Disconnect the thermoswitch and oil pressure lead connections.

4 On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner unit. 5 Disconnect the alternator from the cylinder head attachment brackets and remove the drivebelt. 6 If removing the manifolds with the cylinder head, disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold and the accelerator cable (and choke cable if applicable) from the carburettor. 7 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs.

Fuel injection equipped engines

8 Detach the injector lines from the cylinder head and location clips and fold them back out of the way. 9 Disconnect the inlet duct at the flexible hose connection to the throttle valve housing. 10 Detach the vacuum hoses to the throttle valve housing and at the three-way connector on the bulkhead side of the cylinder head. Fold back and secure the hoses out of the way. 11 Disconnect the auxiliary air valve lead from the underside of the inlet manifold and the auxiliary air valve hose to the flexible hose on the throttle valve housing. 12 Disconnect the servo vacuum hose from the green connector on the flexible hose on the throttle housing. 13 If air conditioning is fitted, detach the hoses from the auxiliary air valve and tube connections. 14 Detach the MFI hose at the servo hose valve connection. 15 Detach the wiring connector from the cold start valve.

All engines

16 Remove the timing cover and valve cover, then disconnect the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket.

17 Remove the camshaft. 18 Remove the cylinder head bolts. These

are recessed in the well of the cylinder head and are socket-head bolts. They must be removed using the correct splined tool. 19 The cylinder head bolts must be unscrewed in a progressive manner and in the reverse sequence to that shown for tightening.

20 When all ten bolts have been removed, lift the head from the cylinder block. It may need a little tapping to loosen it but do not try to prise it loose by hammering in wedges. Lift off the gasket and, if the engine is not being dismantled, clean the piston crowns and block face. Note that the cylinder head bolts must not be re-used, a new set will need to be obtained when ordering the cylinder head gasket set.

12 Cylinder head - dismantling

and overhaul

1 Using a wire brush, scraper and steel wool, clean all carbon from the combustion chambers, valve faces and exhaust ports. Remove the spark plugs for cleaning. 2 The valves are not easy to get out unless a suitable valve spring compressor is available. Because the collets and spring caps are set so far down in the head, a long claw is necessary on the compressor and it must be split sufficiently to enable the collets to be removed and inserted. If such a tool is not to hand then find a piece of steel tube of about 25 mm inside diameter which will fit over the valve stem and press down the spring cover (see illustration). The length will depend on the size of the compressor so fit the compressor over the head fully extended, measure the distance between the claw and the valve spring seat and cut the tube to a suitable length. 3 The next step is to cut two windows of suitable size (approx. 25 mm long and 16 mm wide) in opposite sides of the tube. The tube may then be used with the compressor to extract the collets from each valve stem in turn. Place the valve, springs, collets and seats with the tappet in the appropriate receptacle, keeping them strictly together for refitting in the valve guide from which they were taken (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•11

12.2 Improvised tool used to remove and refit collets to valve stems

12.3 Valve springs, cap and collets

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

If your fingers are too big, put a blob of grease on the collet and pick it up with a small screwdriver, then

insert it into the slot on the valve stem.

Page 78

4 The valve springs must be renewed if they are damaged, distorted, or known to have covered a high mileage. If in doubt as to their condition, have your VW dealer check them for compression efficiency using a calibrated valve spring compressor. 5 The valves should be cleaned and checked for signs of wear or burring. Where this has occurred, the inlet valve may be reground on a machine at a dealer. Exhaust valves must not be reground on the machine but ground in by hand. On engines fitted with hydraulic tappets, valves should not be re-cut as this will adversely affect the operation of the tappets. 6 Wear in the valve guides may be detected by fitting a new valve in the guide and checking the amount that the rim of the valve will move sideways when the top of the valve stem is flush with the top of the valve guide. The valve rock limits are given in the Specifications. New valve guides must be fitted and reamed by your VW dealer. 7 Do not spend too long grinding in the valves. If the valve seat and valve are not satisfactory after 15 minutes then you will probably do more harm than good by going on. Make sure both surfaces are clean, smear grinding paste onto the valve evenly and using a suction cup, work the valve with an oscillating motion lifting the valve away from the seat occasionally to stop ridging. Clean the seat and valve frequently and carry on until there is an even grey band on both seat and valve then wipe off all the paste. 8 The surface of the head must be checked with a straight-edge and feeler blade. Place

the straight-edge along the centre of the machined face of the head. Make sure there are no ridges at the extreme ends and measure the clearance with feelers between each combustion chamber head. This is the area where the narrowest part of the cylinder head gasket comes and where the gasket is most likely to fail. If the straight-edge is firmly in place and feelers in excess of 0.1 mm can be put between the head and the straight-edge, then the head should be taken to a dealer for servicing or replacement. 9 If the cylinder head shows signs of cracking, have it inspected by your VW dealer to assess its condition for reuse. 10 VW recommend that the valve stem oil seals should always be renewed to prevent possible high oil consumption. Pulling off the old seal is simple with pliers. With a packet of new oil seals is a small plastic sleeve. This is fitted over the valve stem and lubricated. The seal should then be pushed over the plastic sleeve until it seats on the guide. This should be done with VW tool 10 204 which fits snugly round the outside of the seal and pushes it on squarely. If the seal is assembled without the plastic sleeve, it will be damaged and oil consumption will become excessive. 11 Before reassembling the cylinder head, check the condition of the camshaft. 12 When all components have been examined, then assembly of the head may commence. Insert the valve in the correct guide, fit the inner seat, valve springs and outer cap, assemble the valve spring compressor and possibly the small tube and compress the valve spring until the collets

may be assembled to the valve stem (see

illustrations). 13 Assemble the second collet and holding

them carefully together in place, ease off the compressor until the spring seats the collets home. Remove the compressor, put a rag over the valve stem and tap the stem with a hammer. This is to ensure that the collets are seated correctly. If they are they will not come out. Repeat until all eight valves are in position in the cylinder head. 14 Refit the tappets in the bores from which they came, lubricating them liberally with clean engine oil (see illustration). Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces with oil and fit the camshaft, positioned so that No 1 cylinder cams point upwards. 15 Fit a new oil seal at the sprocket end, lubricate the bearings, set the shaft in position and install bearing caps Nos 2 and 4, tightening the nuts in a diagonal pattern until the shaft is in place (see illustration). Now install the other bearing caps, making sure they are the right way round (marks towards the drive pulley) and tighten the caps down using a diagonal pattern to the specified torque. Install a new rubber seal at the opposite end to the sprocket. 16 On engines equipped with shim bucket tappets, adjust the valve clearances.

13 Sump and oil pump - removal

and refitting

Modification: From August 1985, a larger sump is fitted thereby increasing engine oil capacity. If renewing the sump, ensure that one of identical capacity is fitted

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle then drain the engine oil. Note that the sump plug has an O-ring which must be renewed (see

illustration). 2 Undo the sump retaining bolts and remove

the sump from the lower face of the crankcase. Remove the sump gasket which must also be renewed. 3 To remove the oil pump, undo the two retaining bolts and lower the pump unit,

2C•12 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

12.12a Inserting a valve into the cylinder head

12.12b Locating valve springs and cap . . . 12.12c . . . and valve collets

12.14 Fit the tappet buckets 12.15 Fit the bearing caps

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 79

complete with the oil pick-up pipe and strainer.

Refitting

4 To refit the pump, ensure that the mating faces are clean, locate it in position and fit and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 5 Locate the new sump gasket but do not apply an adhesive sealant. Refit the sump and tighten the retaining bolts evenly to the specified torque. 6 Refit the oil drain plug with O-ring and tighten it to the specified torque.

14 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal

1 Remove the cylinder head. 2 Remove the sump. 3 Unscrew the two oil pump retaining bolts

then lower and remove the pump, complete with oil pick-up pipe from the crankcase. Place it on one side for cleaning and inspection. 4 The piston and connecting rod removal procedure now follows that given for the smaller engine variants in Part A of this Chapter.

15 Crankshaft and main

bearings - removal

1 Disconnect the pistons and connecting rods from the crankshaft. Note that, although the engine has to be removed to remove the crankshaft, the cylinder head, pistons and connecting rods can be left in position. 2 At the flywheel end, undo and remove the six bolts securing the oil seal flange to the crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw the flange, seal and gasket. 3 Examine the main bearing caps. It will be

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•13

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

13.1 Sump, oil pump and oil filter

components - fuel injection engine

Page 80

seen that the caps are numbered 1 to 5 and that the number is on the side of the engine opposite the oil pump position. Identify these numbers. If they are obscured, then mark the caps in the same way as the connecting rod caps. Before removing the caps, push the crankshaft to the rear and check the endfloat using a feeler blade between the thrustwasher flanges on No 3 main bearing and the crankshaft web (see illustration). It must not exceed the specified maximum. 4 Remove the bearing cap retaining bolts, remove the bearing caps and lift out the thrustwashers from each side of the centre main bearing.

5 Lift out the crankshaft and then remove the top half bearing shells. If the main bearings are not being renewed, make sure the shells are identified so that they go back into the same bearing cap the same way round

16 Intermediate shaft - removal

1 The intermediate shaft can only be withdrawn from the crankcase with the engine removed from the vehicle.

2 Remove the timing belt.

3 Remove the fuel pump on carburettor

models and the ignition distributor. 4 Before removing the intermediate shaft, check that the endfloat does not exceed the maximum specified amount. 5 Undo the two sealing flange retaining bolts then withdraw the intermediate shaft, complete with sealing flange (see

illustrations). 6 Withdraw the sealing flange from the

intermediate shaft. The oil seal within the flange and the O-ring must be renewed on reassembly.

2C•14 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

15.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat at No. 3 main bearing

16.5b Withdrawing intermediate shaft16.5a Intermediate shaft retaining flange

bolts (arrowed)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

15.2 Crankshaft and cylinder block components

Page 81

17 Oil filter - renewal

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18

18 Oil cooler - removal and

refitting

1 On fuel injection models, an oil cooler is fitted between the oil filter cartridge and mounting bracket. The cooler must be renewed if the engine oil has been contaminated with metal particles, such as might be the case following total or partial engine seizure. Renew it anyway if it is likely to contain any other harmful contaminant. 2 To remove the cooler, first remove the oil filter cartridge. 3 Drain the cooling system and disconnect the coolant hoses from the cooler. 4 Remove the cooler retaining nut and the cooler. The O-ring between the cooler and mounting must be renewed. 5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Wipe clean the sealing faces of the cooler and mounting and smear the O-ring with clean engine oil. 6 On completion, top-up the engine oil and coolant levels. Start the engine and check for any signs of leaks.

19 Oil filter mounting - removal

and refitting

1 Remove the oil filter and on fuel injection models, the oil cooler. 2 Disconnect the oil pressure switch lead, undo the oil filter mounting securing bolts and withdraw the mounting and gasket. 3 The oil pressure switch can be unscrewed from the top face of the mounting if required. Renew the switch O-ring. 4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Renew the mounting gasket.

20 Oil seals - renewal

Note: The following procedures were all carried out with the engine in the vehicle

Crankshaft seals

Flywheel/driveplate end

1 On manual gearbox models, remove the

clutch and pressure plate. On automatic transmission models, remove the transmission then unbolt the driveplate from the crankshaft, noting the location of the spacer and shim(s).

2 Carefully prise out the oil seal with a screwdriver or strong wire and wipe clean the recess (see illustration). 3 Fill the space between the lips of the new seal with multi-purpose grease, then drive it squarely into the housing using a block of wood or suitable metal tubing. If at all possible, use VW fitting sleeve No. 2003 to avoid damage to the oil seal lip.

4 Refit the driveplate or clutch.

Timing belt end

5 Remove the alternator, together with its

drivebelt. 6 Remove the timing belt cover and timing belt, ensuring that the timing marks are correctly aligned. 7 Unscrew the bolt from the front of the crankshaft, withdraw the pulley and sprocket and remove the Woodruff key. On manual gearbox models, if the belt is difficult to loosen, have an assistant engage top gear and apply the brakes. On automatic transmission models, remove the starter model and restrain the driveplate ring gear with a suitable lever. 8 Prise out the oil seal or extract it with VW tool No. 2085, then wipe clean the recess

(see illustration). 9 Fill the space between the lips of the new

seal with multi-purpose grease, then drive it squarely into the housing using a block of wood or suitable metal tubing. If available use VW fitting sleeve No. 3083. 10 The remaining refitting procedure is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the timing marks are aligned before refitting the timing belt and tensioning it.

Camshaft front seal

11 Remove the alternator together with its drivebelt. 12 Remove the timing belt cover and timing belt, ensuring that the timing marks are correctly aligned. 13 Hold the camshaft sprocket stationary with a screwdriver inserted through one of its holes, then unscrew the bolt and remove the washer, sprocket and Woodruff key. 14 Prise out the oil seal or alternatively,

extract it with VW tool No. 2085, then wipe clean the recess. 15 Fill the space between the lips of the new seal with multi-purpose grease, then drive it squarely into the cylinder head using a block of wood or suitable metal tubing. If available, use VW fitting sleeve No. 10-203. 16 The remaining refitting procedure is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the timing marks are aligned before refitting the timing belt and tensioning it.

Intermediate shaft seal

17 Remove the alternator together with its drivebelt. 18 Remove the timing belt cover and timing belt, ensuring that the timing marks are correctly aligned. 19 Hold the intermediate shaft sprocket stationary with a screwdriver inserted through one of its holes, then unscrew the bolt and remove the washer, sprocket and Woodruff key.

20 Renew the oil seal. 21 The remaining refitting procedure is a

reversal of removal. Ensure that the timing marks are aligned before refitting the timing belt and tensioning it.

21 Examination and renovation

- general information

Refer to Section 20 in Part A of this Chapter.

22 Crankshaft and bearings -

examination and renovation

Refer to Section 21 in Part A of this Chapter.

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•15

20.2 Flywheel end crankshaft oil seal components

1 Intermediate plate 2 Bolt 3 Oil seal

4 Sealing ring (not

fitted to all models)

20.8 VW tool 2085 for removing crankshaft oil seal (timing belt end) and

camshaft oil seal

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 82

23 Cylinder block/crankcase -

examination and renovation

Refer to Section 22 in Part A of this Chapter.

24 Pistons and connecting rods

- examination and renovation

Refer to Section 23 in Part A of this Chapter.

25 Oil pump - examination and

renovation

1 With the oil pump on the bench, prise off the cap with a screwdriver and clean the strainer gauze in fuel. Refit the gauge and press on the cap. 2 Remove the two small bolts and take the cover away from the body. Examine the face of the cover (see illustration). As seen in the

illustration, the gears have marked the cover. If the depth of this marking is significant, then the face of the cover must be machined flat again. 3 Remove the gears and wash them with the body in clean paraffin. Dry and reassemble the gears, lubricating them with clean engine oil. Measure the backlash between the gears with a feeler blade (see illustration). This should be 0.05 to 0.20 mm. 4 Now place a straight-edge over the pump body along the line joining the centre of the two gears and measure with a feeler blade the axial clearance between the gears and the straight-edge (see illustration). This must not exceed 0.15 mm. 5 If all is well, check that the shaft is not slack in its bearings and reassemble the pump for fitting to the engine. 6 If there is any doubt about the pump, it is recommended that a replacement be obtained. Once wear starts in a pump it progresses rapidly. In view of the engine damage that may follow a loss of oil pressure, skimping the oil pump repair is a false economy.

26 Intermediate shaft -

examination and renovation

1 Check the fit of the intermediate shaft in its bearing. If there is excessive play, the shaft must be compared with a new one. If the shaft is in good order but the bearings in the block are worn, then seek expert advice. 2 Check the surface of the cam which drives the fuel pump (where applicable). If serious ridging is present, a new shaft is indicated. 3 Check the teeth of the distributor drivegear for scuffing or chipping. Check the condition of the timing belt sprocket. 4 It is unlikely that damage to the shaft has happened but if it has, seek advice from a VW dealer. 5 There is an oil seal in the flange for the intermediate shaft. This may need renewal if there are signs of leakage. To do this, remove the timing belt sprocket and withdraw the flange from the shaft. The oil seal may now be prised out and a new one pressed in. Always fit a new O-ring on the flange before assembling it to the cylinder block.

27 Flywheel/driveplate -

examination and renovation

1 Inspect the starter ring teeth. If these are chipped or worn then renew the starter ring. This means heating the ring until it may be withdrawn from the flywheel, or alternatively, splitting it. A new one must then be shrunk on. If you know how to do this and you can get a new ring then the job can be done but it is beyond the capacity of most owners. 2 Serious scoring on the flywheel clutch facing requires a new flywheel. Do not attempt to clean the scoring off with a scraper or emery. The face must be machined. 3 If it is necessary to fit a new flywheel, the ignition timing mark must be made by the owner. The new flywheel has only the TDC mark as an O on the outer face. Punch or scribe the appropriate timing mark for your model to the left of the TDC mark at the appropriate distance (see illustration).

2C•16 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

25.2 Examine face of oil pump cover for scoring

25.3 Checking oil pump gear backlash 25.4 Checking oil pump gear endfloat

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

27.3 Flywheel/driveplate ignition timing marks

Engine code EZ (1.6)-flywheel a = 37.0 mm 18° BTDC Engine code EZ (1.6)-driveplate: a = 42.0 mm 18° BTDC Engine code EV (1.8) - flywheel: a = 12.5 mm 6° BTDC Engine code GU (1.8) - flywheel a = 37.0 mm 18° BTDC Engine code GU (1.8) - driveplate: a = 42.0 mm 18° BTDC

Page 83

4 On automatic transmission models, check the driveplate as described for the flywheel. It will also be necessary to mark a new driveplate for ignition timing.

28 Timing belt and sprockets -

examination and renovation

Refer to Section 26 in Part A of this Chapter. The information given also applies to the intermediate shaft sprocket.

29 Engine reassembly - general

information

Refer to Section 28 in Part A of this Chapter.

30 Crankshaft and main

bearings - refitting

Note: If it is difficult to rotate the crankshaft, check that the bearing shells are seated properly and that the bearing cap is in the correct way round. Rotation will only be difficult if something is incorrect and the fault must be found. Dirt on the back of a bearing shell is sometimes the cause of a tight main bearing.

1 If a new crankshaft is being fitted to automatic transmission models, the needle roller bearing supplied and fitted by the manufacturer will need to be removed from its

aperture in the rear end of the crankshaft. It may already have been removed by the supplier, but check anyway. 2 Clean the crankcase recesses and bearing caps thoroughly and fit the bearing shells so that the tang on the bearing engages in the recess in the crankcase or bearing cap. Ensure that the shells fitted to the crankcase have oil grooves and holes and that these align with the drillings in the bearing housings. When fitting the bearing shells to the caps, note that bearing Nos. 1, 2 and 5 are plain shells whilst No. 4 has an oil groove. 3 The bearing shells of the centre bearing (No. 3) may either be flanged to act as thrustwashers, or may have separate thrustwashers. These should be fitted oil groove outwards. Fit the bearing shells so that the ends of the bearing are flush with the joint face (see illustrations). 4 Oil the bearings and journals then locate

the crankshaft in the crankcase. 5 Fit the main bearing caps (with centre main bearing thrustwashers if applicable) in their correct positions (see illustration). 6 Fit the bolts to the bearing caps and tighten the bolts of the centre cap to the specified torque, then check that the crankshaft rotates freely. 7 Working out from the centre, tighten the remaining bearing caps in turn, checking that the crankshaft rotates freely after each bearing has been tightened. 8 Check that the endfloat of the crankshaft is within specifications by inserting feeler blades between the crankshaft and the centre bearing thrust face/washer while levering the crankshaft first in one direction and then in the other. 9 Lubricate the rear of the crankshaft and using a new gasket, install the rear oil seal and flange. Tighten the six bolts (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•17

30.3a Fitting flanged type centre main bearing into crankcase

30.3b Fitting alternative type centre main bearing into crankcase . . .

30.3c . . . together with thrustwashers

30.5 Fitting main bearing caps 30.9 Fitting crankshaft rear oil seal and flange

30.3d Fitting flanged type centre main bearing to cap

30.3e Fitting centre bearing and separate thrustwashers to cap

30.3f Ensure that ends of bearing are flush with joint face

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 84

10 Lubricate the front of the crankshaft and fit the front oil seal and flange with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque.

31 Intermediate shaft - refitting

Lubricate the intermediate shaft with clean

engine oil then install it in the block.

Fit the O-ring and flange, together with the oil seal, then tighten the bolts. Note that the oil hole must be at the bottom of the flange.

32 Pistons and connecting rods

- refitting

Proceed as described in Section 30, Part A of this Chapter, paragraphs 2 to 7 inclusive. When refitting the big-end nuts, oil the threads.

On completion, check the endfloat of each connecting rod in a similar manner to that described for checking the crankshaft endfloat.

33 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment (pre August

1985)

1 If a new or reconditioned cylinder head, complete with camshaft, is being fitted, then the valve clearances will have been preset. 2 Valve clearances can be checked and adjusted with the cylinder head removed (prior to refitting after overhaul) or in the normal manner described in Section 12 of Chapter 1. 3 There are two specified valve clearance settings, these being for a cold (cylinder head removed) or warm (engine in vehicle) engine condition. 4 If valve adjustment is made with the engine cold, then it must be checked again with the engine at normal operating temperature (ie. coolant above 35°C). If the cylinder head has been overhauled, then it should be checked again, hot, after 600 miles (900 km).

34 Cylinder head - refitting

Note: New cylinder head retaining bolts must be used on refitting

1 Clean the top face of the block. Clean and inspect the bores and lubricate them with clean engine oil. Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the mid-cylinder position. 2 The engine number is stamped on an inclined surface between No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders on the side above the distributor.

Using this as a datum, install a new cylinder head gasket so that the word ‘OBEN’ on the gasket is over this datum point and on the top side of the gasket (see illustration). 3 Lower the cylinder head into position, locating onto the centring pins where fitted (see illustration). If the cylinder block does not have centring pins, initially refit new No. 8 and No. 10 cylinder head bolts. Do not use jointing compound. Check that the gasket is seating correctly and fit the remainder of the new bolts. Following the sequence shown, tighten the bolts until the head is firmly held. Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts in stages to the specified torque following the same sequence (see illustration). 4 The cylinder head will not need further tightening.

35 Timing belt and sprockets -

refitting

1 Fit the Woodruff key into its groove in the intermediate shaft then refit the sprocket to the front of the shaft. Locate the spacer washer onto the bolt then fit and tighten the bolt to the specified torque wrench setting. Hold the sprocket stationary when tightening by inserting a screwdriver through one of its holes and jamming it against the cylinder block. 2 Locate the Woodruff key (if applicable) to the groove at the front of the crankshaft then

refit the timing belt sprocket onto the shaft. Lubricate the retaining bolt with oil, locate the spacer washer onto the bolt then fit and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. When tightening the bolt, prevent the crankshaft from turning by using the same method as that for its removal. 3 Locate the Woodruff key into its groove on the front of the camshaft then refit the camshaft sprocket. Refit the retaining bolt together with the spacer washer and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting. Hold the sprocket stationary when tightening by inserting a screwdriver through one of its holes and jamming it against the cylinder block or head. 4 If removed, refit the timing belt rear cover. Apply locking compound to the stud thread. 5 Locate the crankshaft pulley onto the sprocket (aligning the marks made previously) using one bolt to secure it temporarily. 6 Turn the camshaft sprocket so that the lobes of No. 1 cylinder cams are pointing upwards and the mark on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the valve cover - see

illustration 9.7a. 7 Rotate the crankshaft sprocket and the

intermediate shaft sprocket until the dot on the intermediate sprocket and the mark on the V-belt pulley coincide. Install the timing belt tensioner loosely and then the timing belt. Making sure the marks are still in place, put a spanner on the adjuster and tighten the belt until it will twist only 90 degrees when held between the finger and thumb halfway

2C•18 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve

34.2 Cylinder head gasket located on block

34.3a Lowering cylinder head onto block

34.3b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 85

between the camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets. Tighten the eccentric adjuster nut to the specified torque - see illustration 9.8. 8 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft V-belt pulley. 9 Fit the lower timing cover then refit the crankshaft V-belt pulley and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque. 10 Locate the new valve cover gasket on the cylinder head, the seal to the No. 1 camshaft bearing cap and the half round grommet into its location at the rear end of the cylinder head. 11 Fit the valve cover into position, locate the reinforcement strips then refit and tighten the retaining nuts evenly to the specified torque.

12 Refit the upper timing belt cover.

36 Engine ancillary components

- refitting

1 On automatic transmission models, refit the driveplate together with any shims originally located between the crankshaft and the plate. Fit the washer on the transmission side of the driveplate, ensuring that the chamfered side of the washer faces towards the driveplate. Use new bolts and tighten them to the specified torque setting then using vernier calipers, check the distance between the driveplate and the cylinder block as shown (see illustration) at three positions. If the clearance is not between 30.5 and 32.1 mm, remove the driveplate, fit shims of suitable thickness between the driveplate and the crankshaft, then refit the driveplate assembly and recheck the clearance. If the engine is a new or reconditioned short block replacement, check that the bore in the rear end does not contain a needle roller bearing. If it does, then remove the bearing as this is for manual gearbox models only. 2 On manual gearbox models, refit the clutch together with the intermediate plate.

3 Refit the inlet and exhaust manifolds. 4 Refit the coolant pump and all hoses to the

engine.

5 Refit the alternator and drivebelt. 6 Refit the oil pressure switch to the cylinder

head or filter mounting as applicable, using a new washer or O-ring. Tighten to the specified torque. 7 Fit the oil filter mounting to the cylinder block, together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. On models fitted with an oil cooler, refit the supply and return hoses to their correct unions.

8 Fit the oil filter. 9 Refit the distributor. 10 On carburettor models, refit the fuel

pump. 11 On fuel injection models, refit the warm-up valve (if the hoses were disconnected) . 12 Refit the coolant temperature sender unit and the thermotime switch with new O-rings.

13 Refit the spark plugs, if not already done. 14 Refit the gearbox/transmission to the

engine.

37 Engine - refitting

To refit the engine/transmission, reverse the

removal procedures but note the following:

a) When lowering the unit into the engine

compartment, align the driveshafts with the flanges prior to attaching the respective mountings

b) Assemble the engine mountings loosely

initially and tighten them only after the unit is central without straining the

mountings c) Adjust the clutch cable (manual gearbox) d) Adjust the throttle and selector cables

(automatic transmission) e) Reconnect and adjust the gear selector

linkages (manual gearbox) f) Adjust the throttle and choke cables g) Refill the cooling system h) Refill the engine with the correct grade

and quantity of oil i) Where necessary, retension the power

steering pump drivebelt and replenish the

system fluid

38 Hydraulic bucket tappets -

checking free travel (from August 1985)

1 Start the engine and run it until the radiator cooling fan has switched on once. 2 Increase engine speed to about 2500 rpm for about two minutes.

3 Irregular noises are normal when starting but should become quiet after a few minutes running. 4 If the valves are still noisy, carry out the following check to identify worn tappets. 5 Stop the engine and remove the valve cover from the cylinder head. 6 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley securing bolt, until the cam of the tappet to be checked is facing upward and is not exerting any pressure on the tappet. 7 Press the tappet down using a wooden or plastic wedge. 8 If free travel of the tappet exceeds that specified, the tappet must be renewed.

39 Engine - adjustments after

major overhaul

Refer to Section 41 in Part A of this Chapter.

If new hydraulic bucket tappets have been fitted, it is essential that no attempt to restart the engine is made for a minimum period of 30 minutes after installation. Failure to observe this precaution may result in engine damage caused by the valves contacting the pistons.

Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve 2C•19

36.1 Checking driveplate-to-cylinder block dimension (A) using vernier calipers

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 86

2C•20

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Notes

Page 87

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 2 Part D:

Engine repair procedures 1.8 litre 16 valve

The following information is a revision of, or supplementary to, that given for the 1.8 litre engine in Part C of this Chapter

General

Code:

GTi 16V with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . KR

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:1

Cylinder head

Minimum height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118.1 mm - measured through cylinder head bolt hole

Valves

Head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mm

Stem diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.97 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.94 mm

Overall length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95.5 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98.2 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft

Vibration damper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Intermediate shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Camshaft bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Oil temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Oil jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 133

Camshafts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Timing belt and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

2D•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 88

2D•2 Engine repair procedures 1.8 litre 16 valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1.0 The 1.8 litre, 16 valve, fuel injection engine

1 Inlet manifold upper section 2 Gasket 3 Valve cover 4 Gasket 5 Cylinder head assembly with

camshafts

6 Cylinder head gasket 7 Cylinder block assembly 8 Gasket 9 Sump 10 Oil filter head 11 Oil cooler 12 Oil filter

Page 89

1 General information

The 1.8 litre, 16-valve engine fitted to GTi models from October 1986, incorporates double overhead camshafts, one operating the exhaust valves and the other the inlet valves. There are four valves per cylinder which operate simultaneously in pairs and provide the engine with a much improved breathing capability over the 8-valve version, thus resulting in greater power output. A single camshaft sprocket is attached to the exhaust camshaft and a chain and sprocket at the opposite end of the cylinder head is used to drive the inlet camshaft (see illustration).

Most overhaul procedures for the 16-valve engine are basically the same as those described for the 8-valve engine in Part C of this Chapter. The following Sections describe procedures which differ.

2 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal and refitting

Besides the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket referred to in Part C of this Chapter, Section 9, an additional timing mark is provided on the outside of the camshaft sprocket which aligns with a mark on the valve cover (see illustration). This means that if the timing belt alone is being renewed, it is not necessary to remove the valve cover in order to check the alignment marks.

When fitting the timing belt, it is recommended that VW tool 210 is used to set the tension accurately as this is more critical with the DOHC arrangement (see illustration). Using this tool, the tension should be set to record a reading of between 13 and 14 on the scale. The tool can be obtained from a VW dealer.

3 Camshafts - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket cover. 2 Unbolt and remove the upper section of

inlet manifold. 3 Unbolt and remove the valve cover after disconnecting the HT leads from the spark plugs. Remove the main gasket and the

central gasket from around the spark plug locations. 4 Align the timing marks with reference to Part C of this Chapter, then check also that the marks on the chain sprockets are aligned

(see illustration). 5 Remove the timing belt and camshaft

sprocket with reference to Part C of this Chapter. 6 Note the fitted positions of the camshaft bearing caps, if necessary marking them to ensure correct refitting (see illustration). 7 Progressively unscrew the nuts and bolts from the end caps and bearing cap Nos. 1 and 3 on the exhaust camshaft. 8 Progressively unscrew the bolts from bearing cap Nos. 2 and 4. The exhaust valve springs will force the exhaust camshaft up as the bolts are loosened. Remove the bearing caps keeping them identified for position. 9 Working on the inlet camshaft, progressively unscrew the nuts and bolts from the end cap and bearing cap Nos. 5 and 7. 10 Progressively unscrew the bolts from bearing cap Nos. 6 and 8, then remove all the caps keeping them identified for position. 11 Lift both camshafts from the cylinder head then release them from the drive chain.

Engine repair procedures 1.8 litre 16 valve 2D•3

2.1 Valve timing marks

A Camshaft sprocket outer marks B Camshaft sprocket inner marks C Crankshaft vibration damper marks

2.2 Adjusting timing belt tension using VW tool 210

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

3.4 TDC timing marks in alignment on camshaft drive chain sprockets

3.6 Camshaft bearing cap identification

Inset shows recessed corner position (arrowed)

Page 90

12 If necessary, remove the hydraulic bucket tappets. Check the camshafts and drive chain for wear.

Refitting

13 Lubricate all bucket tappets and camshaft journals with clean engine oil, then insert the tappets in their original bores. 14 Locate the drive chain on the camshaft sprockets so that the timing marks are aligned as shown in illustration 3.4, then lower the camshafts into position on the cylinder head. Recheck the timing mark alignment. 15 Fit a new oil seal to the front end of the exhaust camshaft. 16 When refitting the bearing caps, make sure that they are located the correct way round. The numbers must be readable from the inlet manifold side of the head. The recessed corners of the caps must also face the inlet manifold side of the head. 17 Refit bearing cap Nos. 6 and 8, then progressively tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 18 Refit the inlet camshaft end cap and bearing cap Nos. 5 and 7, then progressively tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified torque. 19 Refit bearing cap Nos. 2 and 4, then progressively tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

20 Refit the exhaust camshaft end caps and bearing cap Nos. 1 and 3, then progressively tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified torque. 21 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Part C of this Chapter and Section 2. 22 Check that all timing marks, including the drive chain sprocket marks, are aligned. 23 Refit the valve cover together with new gaskets and reconnect the spark plug HT leads. 24 Refit the inlet manifold upper section and the camshaft sprocket cover.

4 Cylinder head - dismantling

and overhaul

Exhaust valves on the 16 valve engine are filled with sodium to provide improved heat dissipation. Special precautions are necessary when disposing of this type of valve, particularly where recycling of scrap metal is concerned.

To render each valve safe, it should be wiped dry then cut through the stem with a hacksaw. Throw the valve into a bucket of water, keeping well away from it until the chemical reaction has subsided.

5 Pistons and connecting rods

- removal and refitting

The big-end caps on 16 valve engines are fitted with oil jets which direct a stream of oil to the underside of the pistons, mainly for cooling purposes (see illustration).

The oil jets are secured to the caps by small screws which must be coated with thread-locking fluid before inserting them and tightening to the specified torque.

2D•4 Engine repair procedures 1.8 litre 16 valve

5.1 Big-end cap components

1 Oil jet 2 Screw 3 Bearing shell

4 Cap 5 Nuts

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 91

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Cooling system

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised with pump driven by timing or V-belt. Front mounted

radiator with internal or external expansion tank. Electric cooling fan

Radiator/expansion tank

Cap operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 to 1.5 bar

Thermostat

Minimum stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm

Opening temperature:

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines:

Rocker finger tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92°C

Hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87°C

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85°C

Fully open temperature:

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines:

Rocker finger tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108°C

Hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102°C

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105°C

Cooling fan thermo-switch

Carburettor engines:

Switch-on temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93° to 98°C

Switch-off temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88° to 93°C

Fuel injection engines (except 16 valve):

Switch-on temperature:

Single speed and 1st stage of twin speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92° to 97°C

2nd stage of twin speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99° to 105°C

Switch-off temperature:

Single speed and 1st stage of twin speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84° to 91°C

2nd stage of twin speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91° to 98°C

Injector cooling:

Switch-on temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110°C

Switch-off temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103°C

Air conditioning system compressor - drivebelt adjustment . . . . . . . 12

Air conditioning system compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . 11

Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cooling fan and motor- removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Cooling system electrical switches - removal, testing and refitting . . 7

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Heat exchanger/fresh air box - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Heater and fresh air blower unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 9

Heater controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 92

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

All models

Temperature sender unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Cooling fan thermo-switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1.05 and 1.3 litre

Thermostat housing through-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14

Thermostat housing-to-pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Coolant pump unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1.6 and 1.8 litre

Coolant pump housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14

Coolant pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Coolant pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14

Thermostat housing to coolant pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Thermo-switch (inlet manifold preheater):

1.6 and 1.8 litre carburettor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

1.8 litre fuel injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

1 General information and

precautions

General information

Cooling and heating systems

The cooling system is of pressurised type and includes a front mounted radiator, coolant pump, expansion tank and thermostatically operated electric cooling fan (see illustrations).

Coolant circulation through the radiator is controlled by a thermostat, the location of which differs according to engine type. On

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines, it is located in a

housing on the rear end of the cylinder head (left side of vehicle) below the distributor. On

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines, the thermostat is located in the base of the coolant pump housing which is mounted low down on the front of the engine (timing case end).

Fuel-injected engines incorporate an oil cooler unit which is located between the oil filter and its mounting bracket.

Cold coolant from the bottom of the radiator circulates through the bottom hose to the coolant pump, where the pump impeller forces it around the cylinder block and head passages. After cooling the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valve seats, the coolant reaches the cylinder head outlet and is returned to the pump via the bypass hoses when the thermostat is closed. A further

cylinder head outlet allows coolant to circulate through the inlet manifold and heater matrix (with heater control on) and it is then returned to the pump.

When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens and the coolant then circulates through the top hose to the top of the radiator. As the coolant circulates down through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush of air when the vehicle is in forward motion, supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan when necessary. Having reached the bottom of the radiator, the coolant is now cooled and the cycle is repeated.

The electric cooling fan is controlled by a thermo-switch located in the left-hand side of the radiator.

3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1.0a Cooling system components – 1.05 and 1.3 litre, pre August 1985

Page 93

Air conditioning system

The air conditioning unit works on exactly the same principle as a domestic refrigerator, having a compressor, a condenser and an evaporator. The condenser is attached to the vehicle radiator system. The compressor, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley, is installed on a bracket on the engine. The evaporator is installed in a housing under the dashboard which takes the place of the

normal fresh air housing. The housing also contains a normal heat exchanger unit for warming the inlet air. The evaporator has a blower motor to circulate cold air as required.

The system is controlled by a unit on the dashboard similar to the normal heater control in appearance.

The refrigerant used is a dangerous substance in unskilled hands. As a liquid it is very cold and if allowed to touch the skin will cause cold burns. As a gas it is colourless and

has no odour. Heavier than air, it displaces oxygen and can cause asphyxiation if pockets of it collect in pits or similar workplaces. It does not burn but even a lighted cigarette causes it to break down into constituent gases, some of which are poisonous to the extent of being fatal.

Precautions

Cooling system maintenance

Do not remove the expansion tank filler cap or disturb any part of the cooling system whilst it is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the filler cap must be removed before the system is cool, then the pressure in the system must first be released. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the cap until a hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing has stopped, then system pressure is released. Slowly unscrew the cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times keep well away from the filler opening.

If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine is not running. Be careful to keep hands, hair and loose clothing well clear of the fan when working in the engine compartment.

Antifreeze mixture

Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out of reach of children and pets. Never leave antifreeze lying around, it is fatal if ingested.

Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water.

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1.0b Cooling system components - 1.05 and 1.3 litre, post August 1985

1 Radiator 2 Fan ring 3 Expansion tank 4 Thermostat housing

5 Cover 6 O-ring 7 Thermostat 8 Hose

9 Automatic choke 10 O-ring 11 Coolant pump 12 Inner timing cover

13 Camshaft sprocket 14 Timing belt 15 Outer timing cover

1.0c Cooling system components – 1.6 and 1.8 litre, carburettor

Page 94

Air conditioning refrigerant

Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them with a dilute solution of boric acid and seek medical advice immediately.

In view of the above points, and of the need for specialised equipment for evacuating and recharging the system, any work which requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line must be left to a specialist.

Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed to temperatures above 230°F (110°C) - eg. during welding or paint drying operations. Do not operate the air conditioning system if it is known to be short of refrigerant, or further damage may result.

2 Cooling system - draining,

flushing and filling

Warning: Never work on the cooling system when it is hot. Take care to avoid any possibility of scalding

Draining

1 It is preferable to drain the cooling system when the engine has cooled. If this is not possible, place a cloth over the expansion tank filler cap and turn it slowly in an anti-clockwise direction until pressure starts to escape.

2 When all pressure has escaped, remove the filler cap (see illustration). 3 Set the heater controls to maximum heat, then place a suitable container beneath the left-hand side of the radiator. 4 Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose away from the radiator outlet. Drain the coolant into the container (see illustrations).

Flushing

5 After some time, the radiator and engine

waterways may become restricted or even blocked with scale or sediment which can reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. When this occurs, the coolant will appear rusty and dark in colour and the system should then be flushed. In severe cases reverse flushing may be required, although if the correct antifreeze has been in constant use, this is unlikely. 6 With the coolant drained, disconnect the top hose from the radiator. Insert a garden

3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1.0d Cooling system components – 1.8 litre, fuel injection

1.0e Cooling system components - 16 valve engine

1 Alternator bracket 2 Pulley 3 Coolant pump assembly 4 Outlet elbow 5 Thermostat

6 O-ring 7 Cover 8 Oil cooler 9 O-ring 10 Outlet elbow

Page 95

hose and allow the water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clear from the bottom outlet. If, after a reasonable period the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 7 Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head outlet and insert a garden hose in the heater hose. With the heater controls set at maximum heat, allow water to circulate through the heater and out through the bottom hose until it runs clear. 8 In severe cases of contamination the system should be reverse flushed. To do this, remove the radiator, invert it and insert a garden hose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the inlet. 9 The engine should also be reverse flushed. To do this, disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head outlet and insert a garden

hose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the bottom hose.

Filling

10 Reconnect all disturbed hoses and check that the heater controls are set to maximum heat. 11 Pour the recommended coolant mixture into the expansion tank until it reaches the MAX level mark. 12 Refit and tighten the filler cap then run the engine at a fast idling speed for a few minutes whilst keeping an eye on the coolant level. 13 Stop the engine and top-up the coolant level, as necessary, to the MAX mark (see

illustration). Refit the filler cap. 14 After running the engine up to its normal

operating temperature (electric cooling fan cuts into operation), the coolant level should be rechecked. When the engine is warm, the level of the coolant in the reservoir should be at the MAX level mark. When cool, the coolant level should be between the MIN and MAX level marks.

3 Radiator - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system.

3 Disconnect the wiring from the thermoswitch and cooling fan motor (see illustrations). 4 Disconnect the top hose and expansion tank hose from the radiator (see illustration). 5 Undo the two retaining bolts (see illustration) and remove the insulators and L

brackets from the top of the radiator. Note that the longer bracket is the centre one.

6 Remove the front grille. 7 Remove the two bolts each side at the front

and remove the left and right-hand air ducts. 8 The radiator can now be lifted from the engine compartment whilst taking care not to damage the matrix (see illustration).

Inspection

9 Remove the screws and withdraw the cowling and fan from the radiator.

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5

2.2 Removing expansion tank cap 2.4a Radiator bottom hose connection -

1.3 litre

2.4b Radiator bottom hose connection -

1.8 litre

2.13 Topping-up engine coolant

3.4 Radiator securing bolt (A) expansion tank hose connection (B) and top hose

connection (C)

3.3b Detach cooling fan lead connector

3.3a Radiator thermo-switch - 1.8 litre

3.5 Radiator central retaining bolt and bracket

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 96

10 Clean the radiator matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft brush or by hosing. At the same time check for signs of damage and coolant leakage. 11 It is not possible to repair this type of radiator without special equipment. 12 Renew any hoses or clips that are damaged.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If necessary, renew the radiator lower mounting rubbers (see illustration).

14 Refill the cooling system. 15 When reconnecting the cooling fan motor

wiring, secure the lead to the cowling web

(see illustration).

4 Cooling fan and motor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan

motor and cowling. Note that as from January 1986, the wiring on all new cooling fan motors obtained from VW incorporates a standardised connector. Where necessary, the old connector must be cut from the main harness and the standardised part fitted instead. The relevant parts are obtainable from a VW dealer. 3 Remove the retaining bolts and screws and lift the cowling, together with the cooling fan and motor, from the radiator. 4 Remove the retaining nuts and withdraw the cooling fan and motor from the cowling

(see illustration). 5 If necessary, the fan can be separated from

the motor by prising off the clamp washer. On AEG motors drive out the roll pin. On Bosch motors remove the shake-proof washer. Assemble the components in reverse order using a new clamp washer.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

5 Thermostat - removal, testing

and refitting

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

Removal

1 The thermostat is located in the outlet

housing on the left-hand (rear) end of the cylinder head. To remove it, first drain the cooling system. 2 Unscrew the bolts and remove the thermostat cover (see illustrations). Place the cover with top hose still attached to one side.

3 Remove the sealing ring (see illustration). 4 Extract the thermostat from the outlet

housing.

Testing

5 To test the thermostat, suspend it with a

piece of string in a container of water. Gradually heat the water and note the temperature at which the thermostat starts to open. Continue heating the water to the specified fully open temperature then check that the thermostat has opened by at least the minimum specified amount. Remove the thermostat from the water and check that it is fully closed when cold. 6 Renew the thermostat if it fails to operate correctly. 7 Clean the thermostat seating and the mating faces of the outlet housing and cover.

3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3.8 Lifting out radiator and cooling fan assembly

3.13 Radiator lower mounting rubber 3.15 Secure fan lead with plastic clip (arrowed)

5.2a Unscrew socket-head bolts . . .

4.4 Cooling fan motor retaining nuts (arrowed)

5.2b . . . and remove thermostat cover 5.3 Removing thermostat sealing ring

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 97

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit a new

sealing ring and tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque. The breather hole in the thermostat should face upwards. 9 On completion, refill the cooling system.

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines

Removal

10 The thermostat is located in the bottom of

the coolant pump behind the inlet elbow. To remove it, first drain the cooling system. 11 Unbolt the inlet elbow from the coolant pump and remove the seal and thermostat

(see illustrations). 12 Clean the coolant pump and elbow of any

scale or corrosion.

Testing

13 To test the thermostat, proceed as

described in paragraphs 5, 6 and 7.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal

procedure. Always fit a new seal.

15 On completion, refill the cooling system.

6 Coolant pump - removal and

refitting

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting and

disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover. 4 Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley until the timing cover plate upper retaining bolt is visible through the camshaft sprocket hole. Unscrew and remove the bolt. 5 Align the timing marks and release the timing belt from the coolant pump and camshaft sprocket (see illustration). 6 Remove the bolts and withdraw the timing cover plate followed by the coolant pump

(see illustration). Remove the sealing ring. 7 It is not possible to repair the coolant pump

and if faulty, it must be renewed. Clean the mating faces of the coolant pump and cylinder block.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 9 When fitting a pump which has been

reconditioned by VW, check to see if the sealing ring groove has been reworked. If it has, a ‘Y’ will be stamped on the pump mounting flange indicating that a 5.0 mm diameter sealing ring should be fitted instead of the normal 4.0 mm diameter ring. Always fit a new sealing ring.

10 Correctly tension the timing belt. 11 On completion, refill the cooling system.

1.6 and 1.8 litre engines

Removal

12 Drain the cooling system. 13 Remove the alternator. 14 On models fitted with power steering, it

will be necessary to remove the pump unit and mounting bracket for access to the coolant pump. 15 On models equipped with air conditioning, it will be necessary to move aside the compressor unit and its mounting. Do not detach the air conditioning system hoses. 16 Disconnect the three coolant hoses from the pump, then remove the four bolts holding the pump to the cylinder block (see illustration). The pump will probably be stuck to the block but will come off if tapped gently. Remove the O-ring with the pump. 17 Remove the pulley and then take out the eight bolts which secure the bearing housing and impeller to the coolant pump housing. The two halves may now be separated (see illustration). Do not drive a wedge in to break

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7

5.11a Undo the retaining bolts . . . 5.11b . . . withdraw thermostat elbow . . . 5.11c . . . then extract thermostat and seal

6.6 Withdrawing coolant pump

6.5 Disengage timing belt from coolant pump sprocket

6.16 Coolant pump location (engine

removed from vehicle) - 1.6 and 1.8 litre

6.17 Two halves of coolant pump -

1.6 and 1.8 litre

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 98

the joint. Clean off the old gasket.

18 Remove the thermostat. 19 The impeller housing and impeller

complete with bearings are serviced as one part. If coolant is leaking through the bearing, or the impeller is damaged, the complete assembly must be renewed. 20 Fit a new gasket using jointing compound, then fit the two pump halves together and tighten the bolts evenly.

21 Fit the thermostat.

Refitting

22 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always

fit a new O-ring.

23 On completion, refill the cooling system. 24 Correctly tension the drivebelt(s).

7 Cooling system electrical

switches - removal, testing

and refitting

Cooling fan motor thermoswitch

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system. 3 Unscrew the thermo-switch from the

left-hand side of the radiator and remove the sealing ring (see illustration). Note that from September 1985, on fuel injection engines (except 16V) the switch, located in the bottom of the radiator, is of a 3-pin type, replacing the previous 2-pin type. The new switch has two operation temperature ranges, the first range operating the coolant fan at normal speed and the second range operating the fan at boost speed. 4 To test the thermo-switch, suspend it with a piece of string so that its element is immersed in a container of water. Connect the thermo-switch in series with a 12 volt test lamp and battery. Gradually heat the water and note its temperature with a thermometer. The test lamp should light up at the specified switch-on temperature and go out at the specified switch-off temperature. If not, renew the thermo-switch. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit a new sealing ring and tighten the thermo-switch to the specified torque. 6 On completion, refill the cooling system.

Cooling fan temperature sensor

7 From March 1986, the cooling fan is also controlled by a temperature sensor located between injectors 1 and 2. A time relay is also incorporated in the wiring circuit to keep the system functional for 10 to 12 minutes after switching off the ignition.

Temperature sender unit/thermo-switches

8 It is not necessary to drain the cooling system if some form of plug, such as an old sender unit or rubber plug, is available as a substitute for the removed switch. 9 Release any pressure in the system by unscrewing the pressure cap. If the system is still hot, observe the precautions at the start of this Chapter. With all pressure released, retighten the cap. 10 The location of the sender unit or thermo-switch is dependent on engine type. In general, they are as follows:

1.05 and 1.3 litre engines

11 The thermo-switch is located in the

intermediate piece in the hoses between the inlet manifold and thermostat housing (see

illustration). 12 The temperature sensor is located in the thermostat housing (see illustration).

1.6 and 1.8 litre carburettor engines

13 The temperature sender unit is located in

the heat exchanger hose connecting flange on the rear of the cylinder head. 14 The thermo-switch (inlet manifold preheater) is located on the top face of the hose connector

on the spark plug side of the cylinder head. 15 The thermo-switch (automatic choke) is located in the base of the hose connector on the spark plug side of the cylinder head.

1.8 litre fuel injection engine

16 The temperature sender unit is located in

the hose connector on the spark plug side of the cylinder head (see illustration). 17 The thermo-switch is located on the top face of the hose connector on the spark plug side of the cylinder head.

1.8 litre 16V engine

18 The temperature sender is located on the

flywheel end of the cylinder block below the outlet elbow and controls the temperature gauge.

All engines

19 Disconnect the wiring lead from the

sender unit/switch concerned. 20 Unscrew and remove the sender unit/switch and plug the aperture. 21 Refitting is the reversal of the removal procedure. Tighten the sender unit/thermoswitch to the specified torque. 22 On completion, check and if necessary top-up the cooling system.

8 Heater controls - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 The heater control unit is located in the

centre of the dashboard. It is accessible after the radio has been removed or, on vehicles without a radio, the cubby hole. 3 Pull off the control knobs and unclip the trim panel (see illustrations). 4 Remove the three cross-head screws holding the control unit and ease it forward

(see illustration). 5 The cables can now be unhooked from the

control unit levers and their outer body unclipped from the control unit body. 6 If a cable is to be renewed, unhook it from the control flap at the other end and withdraw it. For access to the flap control valves, it is

3•8 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

7.3 Cooling fan thermo-switch 7.11 Temperature sender unit thermoswitch location - 1.05 and 1.3 litre

7.12 Temperature sensor (arrowed) -

1.05 and 1.3 litre

7.16 Temperature sender unit (A) and

thermo-switch (B) - 1.8 litre, fuel injection

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 99

necessary to remove the lower parcel tray on the passenger side and also the insulation sheet (see illustrations). 7 It is best to renew the heater cables completely if the inner cable snaps. In this way the exact length required is obtained. It is

a good idea to fit new cable clamps also, as the old ones seem to distort when removed.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the cables are correctly routed with no sharp bends.

9 Heater and fresh air blower

unit - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the parcel shelf and insulation

sheet on the underside of the facia panel on the passenger side. 3 The blower unit is mounted in the left-hand corner. Disconnect the wiring multi-connector

(see illustration). 4 Release the retaining tab (carefully) then

twist the blower unit in a clockwise direction and withdraw it from the housing (see

illustration). 5 The wiring connection plate on the blower

can be levered free by inserting a screwdriver blade under the retaining tab at the top. 6 If an ohmmeter is available, the thermo cut-out can be checked as shown. 7 Check that the blower wheel runs freely and that the air ducts are not blocked.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Heat exchanger/fresh air

box - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the centre console. 3 Remove the parcel shelf and insulator panel

on the passenger side. 4 Drain the engine coolant (heater in ON position). 5 Disconnect the heater coolant hoses at the bulkhead on the engine compartment side (see illustration).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•9

8.3a Pulling free heater/ventilation control knobs

8.3b Unclip and withdraw trim panel 8.4 Detaching control unit

8.6a Removing parcel shelf . . . 8.6b . . . and insulation sheet

9.3 Blower unit and wiring connection

9.4 Blower unit withdrawal from housing

10.5 Bulkhead coolant hose connections

A Passenger compartment B Engine compartment C Return hose D Supply hose

8.6c Control cable connections to flap valves at heater distribution box unit

(arrowed)

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Page 100

6 Undo the retaining nuts and withdraw the outlet distributor from the air box, disconnecting the distributor from the left and right-hand air ducts as it is withdrawn. Remove the gasket (see illustration). 7 Disconnect the control cables at the air box end. 8 Loosen the dash securing screws enough to enable the air box to be withdrawn and removed. 9 Release the clips and withdraw the heat exchanger unit from the air box. Allow for

further coolant drainage from the inlet and outlet pipes. 10 The housing upper and lower housing halves can be separated by releasing the securing clips (see illustration). Once separated, the flap valves can be removed. Take care not to split or crack the housings.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. When engaging the control cable levers, align the index markings on the outer

faces of the segments (see illustration). Renew the heat exchanger cover gasket and ensure that the hose connections are securely made. 12 Before refitting the parcel shelf, top-up the cooling system and run the engine up to its normal operating temperature. Operate the heater and check for any sign of leakage from the heat exchanger hose connections. Check that the controls operate in a satisfactory manner.

3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

10.10 Upper-to-lower housing retaining clips (arrowed) 10.11 Align marks to set centre and side outlet flap positions

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

10.6 Heater and ventilation system components