SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAIN
TAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN
DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use
30001453 4/05 Rev. 4
-
Vermont Castings Madison
C US
Introduction
Thank you for choosing a Vermont Castings Madison to meet your heating needs.
We’re confident you will find the Madison to be an effective woodburning heater incorporating
modern, non-catalytic combustion technology with the classic aesthetic appeal of its Vermont
Castings lineage.
The Madison achieves high-efficiency through precisely calibrated delivery of primary and
secondary air into a refractory-insulated firebox. Properly operated and maintained according
to the guidelines in this manual, your Madison will provide safe, dependable, and economical
heating for years to come.
The Madison Model 1655 Series has been tested and is listed by Canadian Standards Asso
ciation (CSA). The test standards are ANSI/UL-1482 for the United States and ULC S627 and
CAN/CSA B366.2 for Canada.
The Madison Model 1655 Series is listed for burning wood fuel only. Do not burn other fuels.
The Madison Model 1655 Series is approved for installation in manufactured (mobile) homes
in the Unties States only, using the optional Mobile Home Kit #1894 in accordance with the
instructions in that kit an any local codes.
The Madison Model 1655 Series complies with the standards set forth by the Federal Environmental Protection Agency, 40 CFR Part 60.532(b)(2), as stated on the permanent label attached to each stove. The Madison Model 1655 Series meets Washington State requirements.
We recommend that you hire a professional, solid-fuel stove technician to install your Madison,
or to advise you on the installation should you attempt to install it yourself. Consult the authority having local jurisdiction (such as a municipal building department, fire department, fire
prevention bureau, etc.) before installation to determine the need for a building permit. Also,
consult your insurance agent to be sure your installation complies with specific requirements
that may vary locally.
In addition to directions on installation and operation, this manual includes directions on maintenance and assembly. Please read this entire manual before you install or operate your new
room heater.
Parts List ..........................................25
Accessories
#1891 Outside Air Kit
#1892 Bottom Heat Shield Kit
#1893 Rear Heat Shield Kit
#1894 Mobile Home Kit
Proposition 65 Warning: Fuels used in gas, woodburning or oil fired appliances, and the products of
combustion of such fuels, contain chemicals known
to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects and other reproductive harm.
California Health & Safety Code Sec. 25249.6
30001453
Specifications
29”
(740mm)
28”
(710mm)
24
”
(630mm)
18”
(470mm)
25"
(635mm)
Madison, Model 1655 Series
Range of Heat Output ............... 11,300 - 39,700 BTU’s
Maximum heat output ..........................39,700 Btu’s/hr.
Area heated ......................................Up to 1600 sq. ft.
This value can vary depending on how the stove is op-
1
2,
3
erated, the type and moisture content of the fuel used,
as well as the design, construction and climatic location
of your home. Figures shown are based on maximum
fuel consumption obtained under laboratory conditions
and on average efficiencies.
2
These values are based on operation in building codeconforming homes under typical winter climate conditions in New England. If your home is of nonstandard
construction (e.g., unusually well insulated, not insulated, built under ground, etc.) or if you live in a more
severe or more temperate climate, these figures may
not apply. Since so many variables affect performance,
consult your Vermont Castings authorized dealer to
determine realistic expectations for your home.
3
Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions
testing.
Drawings not to scale.
Fig. 1 Madison 1655 dimensions.
30001453
1128
3
Vermont Castings Madison
2' Min.
2' Min.
3'
Min.
0 To 10'
3'
Min.
0 To 10'
Installation
SAFETY NOTICE: If your stove is not properly in
stalled, operated and maintained, a house fire may
result. For safety, follow all installation, operation
and maintenance directions. Contact local building
officials about restrictions and installation inspec
-
tion requirements in your area.
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
be certain that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is construct-
ed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local authori-
ties.
Your local building official is the final authority for approving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
the stove indicates that the Madison has been tested
to current UL and ULC standards by CSA. Clearance
and installation information is also printed on the label.
Local authorities generally will accept the label as
evidence that, when the stove is installed according
to the information on the label and in this manual, the
installation meets codes and can be approved. Codes,
however, vary in different areas. Before starting the
installation, review your plans with the local building
authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional
information needed.
For any unresolved questions about installation, refer
to the National Fire Protection Association’s publication
ANSI/NFPA 211–1988 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances. In Canada, the equivalent publication is CSA CAN-B365,
Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and
Equipment. These standards are the bases for many
national codes. They are nationally recognized and are
accepted by most local authorities. Your local dealer
or your local building official may have a copy of these
regulations.
IMPORTANT:
instructions may result in a dangerous situation, including a chimney or house fire. Follow all instruc
tions exactly and do not allow makeshift compromises to endanger property and personal safety.
Failure to follow these installation
-
Chimneys
Your stove must be connected either to a sound
masonry chimney that meets local codes, to a relined
masonry chimney that meets local codes, or to an
approved prefabricated metal chimney. Whichever of
those types you use, the chimney and chimney connector must be in good condition and kept clean.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is
installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, building inspector, or fire department official will be able to
make the inspection or direct you to someone who can.
The chimney should extend at least 3’ (914mm) above
the highest point where it passes through a roof, and at
least 2’ (610mm) higher than any portion of a building
within 10’ (3m).
To assure proper draft and good performance, any
chimney used with this stove should extend at least 16’
(5m) above the flue collar of the stove.
Reference Point
Fig. 2 The 2’-3’-10’ Chimney Rule.
AC617
Masonry Chimneys
An existing masonry chimney must be inspected to confirm that it has a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney.
The chimney also should be examined for cracks, loose
mortar, other signs of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any defects before the chimney is used with your
stove.
A prefabricated doublewall insulated chimney
A tile-lined
masonry
chimney
4
ST241
Fig. 3 Standard Chimney Types
30001453
Vermont Castings Madison
Masonry Chimneys, cont’d.
• Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney
must be sealed with masonry to the thickness of
the chimney wall, and the chimney liner should be
repaired. Openings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard and should be sealed with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney
fire, flames and smoke may be forced out of these
unused thimbles.
• The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before
use.
• A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of local building code, or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved masonry or precast refractory tiles, stainless
steel pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place”
liner. The chimney clean-out door must seal tightly to
ensure a good draft.
Prefabricated Chimneys
A prefabricated metal chimney must be one that is tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances
to the High-Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard
UL-103-1985 (2100° F.) for the United States, and High
Temperature (650°C) Standard ULC S-629 for Canada.
Chimney Size
This Madison is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a nominal flue size of 8” x 8” (203 x
203mm), and into a round flue size of 8” (203mm) or
6” (152mm). It may be vented into larger chimneys as
well, however, chimneys with liners larger than 8” x 12”
(203 x 305mm) may experience rapid cooling of smoke
and reduction in draft, especially if they are located
outside the home. Such large chimneys may need to be
insulated or relined for proper stove performance.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY
FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
NOTE: DO NOT VENT THIS STOVE INTO A FAC
TORY-BUILT (ZERO-CLEARANCE) FIREPLACE.
THIS STOVE HAS NOT BEEN TESTED AND
LISTED FOR THAT TYPE OF INSTALLATION.
FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACES AND THEIR
CHIMNEYS ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AS
A UNIT FOR USE AS FIREPLACES. IT MAY VOID
THE LISTING OR BE HAZARDOUS TO ADAPT
THEM FOR ANY OTHER USE.
-
Chimney Connector Guidelines
A chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or prefabricated structure that
encloses the flue. Chimney connectors are used only
to make the connection from the stove to the chimney.
They are for interior use only.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for
use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier steel,
and should be 6” (150mm) in diameter. Do not use
galvanized chimney connector; it cannot withstand the
high temperatures that can be reached by smoke and
exhaust gases, and may release toxic fumes under high
heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or
ceiling. If passage
through a combustible
wall is unavoidable,
refer to the recommendations in the section following on Wall
Pass-throughs. Do
not pass the connector through an attic, a
closet or any similar
concealed space. The
whole chimney connector should be exposed and accessible
for inspection and cleaning.
Install the single wall chimney connector not less than
23” (585mm) from the ceiling. Keep it as short and
direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree
turns. If possible, use 45 degree elbows. Slope horizontal runs of connectors upward 1/4” per foot (20mm per
meter) going from the stove toward the chimney. The
recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3
feet (1 meter), and the total length of chimney connector should be no longer than 8’ (2.5m).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricated chimney downward to within 8’ (2.5m) of the stove.
SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND PRO
TECTIVE EYEWEAR WHEN DRILLING, CUTTING OR
JOINING CHIMNEY CONNECTOR SECTIONS .
Toward
stove
Flue gas
direction
ST242
Fig. 4 Chimney connector.
-
DO NOT CONNECT THE STOVE TO ANY AIR
DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
30001453
5
Vermont Castings Madison
Double-wall Chimney Connectors
The Madison is approved for installation in the U.S.
and Canada with double-wall chimney connectors
that have been tested and listed for use with solid-fuel
burning appliances by a recognized testing laboratory.
Follow the instructions for assembling and installing
double-wall connectors provided by the manufacturer
of the double-wall chimney. To ease assembly and
help assure safety, use chimney components manufactured by a single source.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connectors, minimum clearances must conform to those
listed in the clearance chart on Page 12.
Single-wall Chimney Connectors
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble
the chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end
into the stove’s flue collar, and keep each crimped
end pointing toward the stove. Using the holes in
the flue collar as guides, drill 1/8” (3mm) holes in
the bottom of the first section of chimney connector
and secure it to the flue collar with three #10 x 1/2”
sheet metal screws.
• Secure each joint between sections of chimney
connector, including telescoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws. The predrilled holes in
the top of each section of chimney connector serve
as guides when you drill 1/8” (3mm) holes in the
bottom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-
structions for various installations follow.
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connec-
tor are correct distances from nearby combustible
material.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney connector are available to simplify assembly. Slip pipes
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special connector sections.
Thimble Sleeve
Chimney
Connector
Flue
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Prefabricated Chimney
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney
manufacturer exactly.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chimney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapters attach directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package. The bottom of the adapter is
secured to the chimney connector.
The adapter forms a union between the chimney and
chimney connector that ensures any soot or creosote
falling from the inner walls of the chimney will stay
inside the chimney connector.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Masonry Chimney
The Madison may be connected to either a freestanding masonry chimney or to a fireplace masonry chimney.
Freestanding Installations
If the chimney connector must pass through a combustible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommendations for Wall Pass-Through construction on Pages 7-8.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue - the
“breech” – must be lined with a ceramic or metal
thimble which is securely cemented in place. (Fig. 5)
A metal pipe section called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and the
thimbles, will allow the removal of the chimney connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble sleeves
are available from your local dealer.
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Be sure that it does
not extend into the flue passage where it could interfere
with the draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2” (25-51mm)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
Keep sleeve
end flush with
flue tile
ST243
Fig. 5 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
6
30001453
Connection Above the Fireplace
In this installation, the chimney connector enters the
fireplace flue through a thimble located above the
fireplace. (Fig. 6) The liner of the fireplace chimney
should extend at least to the point at which the chimney
connector enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines
for installing a chimney connector into a freestanding
masonry chimney, and pay special attention to these
additional points:
• The stove and chimney connector clearances to
combustible mantel and trim materials are the same
as clearances to combustible walls. If necessary,
use a combination of mantel, trim, and connector
heat shields to provide the required clearances.
Refer to Page 12.
• Double-check connector clearance to the ceiling.
• The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed to
prevent room air from being drawn up the flue which
could reduce performance. However, it must be
possible to reopen the damper to inspect or clean
the chimney.
• Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations.
Wall Pass-throughs
Whenever possible, design the installation so that the
connector does not pass through a combustible wall.
If you must include a wall pass-through in your installation, check with your building inspector before you
begin. Also check with the chimney connector manufacturer for any specific requirements.
Consult with your dealer regarding special connection
components available for use as wall pass-throughs.
Use only parts that have been tested and listed for use
as a wall pass-through.
U.S. Requirements:
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has
established guidelines for use in the United States for
passing chimney connectors through combustible walls.
Many building code inspectors follow these guidelines.
Figure 7 shows one NFPA-approved method. All combustible material in the wall is cut away to provide 12”
(305mm) clearance to the connector. Brick and mortar
are used to enclose the clearance area.
Alternate methods approved by the NFPA:
• Using a section of double-wall chimney with a 9”
(229mm) clearance to combustibles. (Fig. 8)
• Placing a chimney connector pipe inside a steel
double-wall ventilated thimble, which is then separated from combustibles by 6” (152mm) of fiberglass
insulating material. (Fig. 9)
Vermont Castings Madison
Chimney Connector
Heat Shield
Note clearance
*
requirement on
pages 12-13
Fig. 6 If the clearance between the chimney connector and
either the ceiling or the mantel is inadequate, a protective
heat shield is required.
Fire clay
liner
A
A
Fig. 7 Masonry Wall Pass-through with single wall
chimney connector.
Min. 9”
230mm
Sheet Steel
ST273
Supports
Fig. 8 Wall Pass-through using factory-built insulated
chimney section.
*
*
Mantel
Min. 2” (51mm) Chimney clearance to brick and combustibles
Masonry
Chimney
constructed
to NFPA 211
Chimney Flue
A = Minimum 12” (305 mm) brick construction between liner and combustible
framing materials
Solid insulated,
listed factorybuilt chimney
length set flush
with flue
Masonry
Chimney
constructed to
NFPA 211
Non-soluble refractory cement
Min. 2”
(51mm)
Chimney Flue
Min. 9”
(230mm)
Air Space
Min. 12”
(305 mm)
Fire clay
liner
Chimney
Connector
24 ga.Sheet
Steel Supports
ST244a
Chimney
connector
ST272
30001453
7
Vermont Castings Madison
• Placing a chimney connector pipe inside a section of
9” (230 mm) diameter, solid-insulated, factory-built
chimney, with two inches of air space between the
chimney section and combustibles. (Fig. 10)
Canadian Requirements:
In Canada, the Canadian Standards Association has
established specific guidelines regarding wall passthough design. Figure 11 shows one approved method
in which all combustible material in the wall is cut away
to provide the required 18” (457mm) clearance around
the connector. The resulting space must remain empty.
A flush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on
one side only. If covers must be used on both sides,
each cover must be mounted on noncombustible spacers at least 1” (25mm) clear of the wall. Your local
dealer or your local building inspector can provide details of other approved methods of passing a chimney
connector through a combustible wall.
In Canada, this type of installation must conform to
CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment.
Chimney clearance to sheet steel
supports and combustibles
Steel Thimble
with two 1”
(25mm) Ventilated
Channels
Chimney Connector
Masonry Chimney construct
ed to NFPA 211
ST274
-
Chimney Flue
Fig. 9 Wall Pass-through using single wall chimney
connector with a ventilated steel thimble.
Chimney clearance to sheet steel
supports and combustibles
2” (51mm) Min.
air space
Chimney Flue
ST275
Prefab Chimney
Section
24 ga. Sheet
Steel Supports
Fig. 10 Wall Pass-through with ventilated steel thimble.
2” (51mm) Min.
Min. 6”
(152mm)
Glass Fiber
Insulation
24 ga.Sheet
Steel Supports
2” (51mm)
Min.
2” (51mm) Min.
Chimney Connector
Prefab
Chimney
Section
24 ga. Sheet
Masonry Chimney constructed to NFPA 211
Steel Supports
Min. 18”
(460mm)
ST276
Chimney clearance to sheet steel
supports and combustibles
Chimney Flue
24 ga. Sheet
Steel Support
(one side only)
2” (51mm)
Min.
Min. 18”
(460mm)
Chimney
Connector
24 ga.Sheet
Steel Support
Masonry Chimney constructed to CAN/CSA-B365
Fig. 11 CSA approved Wall Pass-through.
Floor Protection
A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom
plate of your Madison. The floor area directly under and
around the stove will require protection from radiant
heat as well as from stray sparks or embers that may
escape the firebox.
Heat protection is provided through the use of a Ver
mont Castings Bottom Heat Shield #1892. Spark and
ember protection must be provided by a floor protector
constructed with noncombustible material as specified.
Most installations will require that the bottom heat shield
be attached. Only when the stove is placed on a complete
ly noncombustible surface such as unpainted concrete over
earth may it be used without the heat shield.
Even when the bottom heat shield is installed, you must
provide special protection to the floor beneath. For
installations with the heat shield attached, use a noncombustible floor protector such as 1/4” non-asbestos
mineral board or equivalent, or 24 gauge sheet metal.
The floor protector may be covered with a noncombustible decorative material if desired. Do not obstruct the
space under the heater.
Protection requirements vary somewhat between the
United States and Canada as follows:
For U.S. installations the floor protector is required
under the stove and must extend at least 18” from the
front of the stove (“D”, Fig. 12), at least 4” from the right
side and rear (“C”, Fig. 12) and 16” from the left side
(“E”, Fig. 12). It must also extend under the chimney
connector and 2” to either side (“F”, Fig. 12).
To meet these requirements, a floor protector must be
at least 48” wide (“A”,Fig. 12) and 48” deep (“B”,Fig. 12)
In Canada, a noncombustible floor protector is required
under the heater also. The floor protector must extend
18” (457mm) to the front (D), and 8” (203mm) from the
right side (C) and rear (C) and 18” (457mm) from left
side (E).
-
-
8
30001453
To meet these requirements, a floor protector must
D
A
B
A
D
C
CE
C
E
C
Top Vent
Rear Vent
F
be at least 54” (1372mm) wide (“A”,Fig. 12) and 52”
(1320mm) deep (“B”, Fig. 12).
Fireplace Hearth Protection
Do not assume that your fireplace hearth is completely
noncombustible. Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy
the “completely noncombustible” requirement because
the brick or concrete in front of the fireplace opening is
supported by heavy wood framing. (Fig. 13) Because
heat is readily conducted by brick or concrete, it can
easily pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered
a combustible floor.
For all fireplace installations, follow the floor protection
guidelines described above.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient
floor protection as described above must be added in
front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector
requirement from the front of the stove: 18” (460mm)
from the front in the United States and 18” (460mm)
from the front in Canada.
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection as they are only fire-retardant, not fire proof.
Floor Protection Requirements
Vermont Castings Madison
Wood framing
requires protection
from radiant heat
Fig. 13 Supporting timbers under fireplace hearths are
considered to be combustible.
ST247a
Clearance to Surrounding
Combustible Materials
When the stove is operating, both the stoveplate and
the chimney connector radiate heat in all directions. A
safe installation requires that adequate clearance be
maintained between the stove and nearby combustible
materials to ensure that those materials do not overheat.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove
or chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the
ceiling, and any other fixed combustible surface. Keep
furnishings and other combustible materials away
from the stove as well. In general, a distance of 48”
(1219mm) must be maintained between the stove and
moveable combustible items such as drying clothes,
furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keep this area
empty of any combustible material.
Fig. 12 These dimensions are minimum requirements only.
Use greater dimensions whenever possible.
30001453
ST500a
Safe Ways to Reduce Clearances
The Madison clearance requirements, listed and
diagramed on Pages 12-13, have been established
through testing to UL and ULC standards to meet most
installation configurations. These involve four basic
variables:
• When neither the chimney connector nor the wall
has a heat shield installed.
• When only the chimney connector has a heat
shield installed.
• When only the wall has a heat shield mounted on
it.
• When a heat shield is installed on both the chimney connector and wall.
In general, the greatest clearance is required when the
stove will be positioned with no heat shield near a wall
with no heat shield. The least clearance is required
when both the stove and the wall have heat shields.
Reducing a stove clearance may require installation of
a listed heat shield on the chimney connector as well.
Clearances may be reduced only by means approved
by the regulatory authority, or in accordance with the
clearances listed in this manual.
9
Vermont Castings Madison
C
C
C
B
A
B
A
C
A
B
C
B
A
C
B
B
C
C
A
A
C
C
C
A
B
Wall Shields
Wall shields should be constructed of 24 gauge or
heavier sheet metal, or another noncombustible material such as 1/2” (13mm) insulation board (Fig. 14) or
common brick “laid on flat,” with the 3¹⁄₂" (89mm) side
down.
Shields must be spaced out from the combustible surface 1" (25mm) on noncombustible spacers. The spacers should not be directly behind the stove or chimney
connector.
Air must be able to flow between the wall and the
shield. At least 50% of the bottom 1" (25mm) of the
shield should be open and the shield must be open at
the top.
Air flow
Stud wall
framing
Wall shield
A = 48” (1219 mm)
B = Max. - C
C = 1” (25 mm)
ST550
Fig. 15 Parallel installation, vertical chimney connector, two
wall shields.
A = 48” (1219 mm)
B = 48” (1219 mm)
C = 1” (25 mm)
Noncombustible
spacers and
fasteners
Drywall
Air flow
Shield
Metal Spacer
Fig. 14 Approved Wall shield construction
The following examples of wall shield construction illustrate common designs used to safely achieve reduced
clearances to combustible wall materials.
Parallel installation, vertical chimney connector,
two wall shields. Fig. 15: Reduced clearances for
both rear and side walls. Wall shields may meet at
corner if desired. Shielding for connector is centered
behind connector.
Parallel installation with rear wall pass-through, two
wall shields. Fig. 16: Reduced clearances for both
rear and side walls. Wall shields may meet at corner if
desired. Shielding for connector is centered behind con
nector. Wall pass-through must comply with codes.
Corner installation, vertical chimney connector, two
wall shields. Fig. 17: Reduced side clearances. Wall
Because of their restricted air flow and heat retention
characteristics, specific construction requirements and
special clearances apply to installations into alcoves.
No stove or chimney connector heat shields are used in
alcove installations.
ALCOVE INSTALLATION OF THE MADISON IS NOT
PERMITTED IN CANADA.
Construction Requirements
The following illustrations show noncombustible ceiling
framing and maximum and minimum permitted dimensions for alcove construction.
Vermont Castings Madison
ST504
Fig. 21 Cutaway perspective of alcove installation.
7/16” Durock®
Use recommended
floor protection
(or equivalent)
spaced 1” off
wood studs on
noncombustible
spacers
ST502
Fig. 19 Alcove floor plan. Sheetrock on front face butts to Durock® (or equivalent) alcove lining.
Joist Shield
(Supplied
by Chimney
Manufacturer)
Metal
Stud
1” air gap top
and bottom,
on both
sides and
back wall
7/16” Durock® (or
equivalent)
Combustible
facing may
overlap metal
studs by only
1”
Existing Combustible
Framing
Metal studs
support 7/16”
Durock® (or
equivalent)
ceiling
1” air gap,
top, bottom,
on both
sides and
back wall
Fig. 20 Alcove side section.
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ST503
NOTE:
From 62” to
65” must be
covered by
a noncombustible
material.
ST506
Fig. 23 Front view: 65” minimum clearance from hearth to
combustibles on front face. Combustible facing may overlap
metal studs by only 1”. It should not extend below the height of
the noncombustible ceiling.
11
Vermont Castings Madison
Madison 1655 Series Clearance Chart
Use the chart below together with the diagrams on the next page to determine the minimum clearance required for
your particular installation. In any case, it is always advisable to locate the stove as far away from walls as possible
in order to take full advantage of the radiant properties of cast iron.
Stove clearances are measured between the cast iron Top Plate of the stove and the combustible surface. Note
that the cast iron back on the Madison protrudes 5” (127mm) out from the stovetop, and will therefore be closer to
the wall than the top of the stove.
Chimney Connector clearances are measured between the connector surface and the combustible surface. For
Douible-wall Chimney Connector, use the manufacturer’s listed clearance specification.
Use NFPA 211 default clearance or manufacturer’s installation specifications for those configurations not tested.
UNPROTECTED SURFACES PROTECTED SURFACES
STOVE CLEARANCE
Parallel Installation
Side Rear Corner Side Rear Corner
Corner In-
stallation
Parallel Installation
Corner In-
stallation
Top exit, no heat shields
Top exit, heat shields on stove,
no shields on single wall connector
Top exit, heat shield on stove,
heat shield on single wall connector
Top exit, heat shield on stove,
double wall chimney connector
You will need the following tools to assemble the Madison:
• 9/16” open end wrench • safety glasses & gloves
• flat head screwdriver • power drill w/ 1/8” (3mm) bit
• stub handle phillips screwdriver
Unpack the Stove
1. Remove the shipping straps and plastic wrap.
2. Inspect the stove and contents for shipping damage
or missing parts. Immediately notify your dealer of
any damage. Do not install this stove if any damage
is evident or any parts are missing.
Hardware Bag contents:
• Stove Legs, 4
• 3/8-16 x 1¹⁄₄” hex head Leg Bolts with washers, 4
• Owner's Registration Card
• Touch-up Paint (Porcelain enamel stoves only)
Install Stove Legs
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom. Install the stove legs using the
hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use 3/8” washers
with all four legs; the door handle holder installs on the
right front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the handle hub faces out from the right side of the
stove. Tighten the bolts firmly. CAUTION: Overtightening can strip tapped threads.
using the same phillips head screw previously removed.
The corners of the shield will butt against the cast leg
locators at each corner of the stove bottom.
ST465
Fig. 25 Attach the Bottom Heat Shield to the boss in the
center of the stove bottom.
1/4-20 x 1/2” Pan Head Screw
Storing the Handle
Use the removable handle to open or close the doors.
After using it, remove the handle so it will not get hot.
Store the handle in the handle holder installed behind
the right front leg. (Fig. 25a)
Leg Bolt and
Washer
Leg Leveller
Fig. 24 Attach the stove legs with leg levellers.
ST466
Install the Bottom Heat Shield
The #1892 Bottom Heat Shield must be used in the
U.S. and Canada in any installation on a floor that is not
comprised of unpainted cement on earth.
1. Remove the 1/4-20x 1/2” phillips screw from the central mounting boss in the stove bottom. (Fig. 25)
2. Mount the bottom heat shield to the stove bottom
30001453
Bottom Heat Shield
Door Handle Holder
Leg Bolt and Washer
ST564
Fig. 25a Handle holder and heat shield positions.
When Installing Rear Heat Shield
Models 1655, 1656, 1567, 1658, 1659 only.
Remove and retain the factory installed flue collar heat
shield. Loosen two phillips screws, on either side of
the flue collar, approximately one turn each.Slide heat
shield away from the flue collar, then push flue collar
forward and retighten phillips screws.
15
Vermont Castings Madison
Install the Outside Air Adapter
The optional #1891 Outside Air Adapter provides a
collar to which a 3” diameter air duct may be attached
directly to the air inlet area at the back of the stove.
This option can be installed in two different configurations, with Rear Heat Shield #1893 and without the heat
shield.
With Rear Heat Shield
1. Engage the Adapter against the Air inlet opening in
the Rear Heat Shield. Align clearance holes in the
adapter with pilot holes in the Rear Heat Shield as
shown at the bottom of Figure 26.
2. Use two sheet metal screws provided in the kit to
attach the Adapter to the Rear Heat Shield at the
aligned holes.
Without Rear Heat Shield
1. Facing the rear of the stove, loosen the pan head
screw located a the upper left hand corner of the
primary air inlet two revolutions. Position the Adapter
over the air inlet opening in the rear of the stove with
the pan head screw passing through the slotted tab
in the Standoff. Make certain that the damper tab is
located between the stove and the standoff and is
oriented as it was before the screw was loosened.
Tighten the pan head screw using the access hole
in the standoff. The Thermostat and Primary Air Flap
should operate freely.
2. Engage the Adapter against the air inlet opening in
the Outside Air Standoff. Align clearance holes in the
adapter with pilot holes in the Standoff as shown at
the top of Figure 26.
3. Use two sheet metal screws provided in the kit to
attach the Adapter to the Outside Air Standoff at the
aligned holes.
Without Rear Heat
Shield
Stove Back
Outside Air
Standoff
Outside Air
Adapter
Primary Air Flap
With Rear Heat Shield
Rear Heat
Shield
ST462
Fig. 26 Outside Air Adapter options.
Oustide Air Adapter
Attach the Chimney Connector
Insert the crimped end of the first section of chimney
connector into the flue collar. Using the holes in the
collar as guides, drill 1/8” (3mm) holes through the
connector pipe. Use the three #10 x 1/2” sheet metal
screws provided to secure the chimney connection to
the flue collar.
If applicable, attach Chimney Connector Heat Shields
following the instructions included with those parts.
16
30001453
Operation
Vermont Castings Madison
How the Madison Works
Combustion control is achieved in the Madison through
two separate air delivery systems.
The primary air control lever, located at the left rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming primary air for starting, maintaining, and reviving the fire.
More air entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter
and faster, while less air prolongs the burn at a lower
heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left
most position. For a fire that will last longer with less
heat, move the lever to the right. You can set the lever
anywhere in between the upper and lower extremes.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO
START THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE
OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE,
NAPTHA, OR ENGINE OIL. ALSO, NEVER USE
GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR
LIQUIDS TO START OR “FRESHEN UP” A FIRE.
KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY FROM
THE MADISON WHILE IT IS IN USE.
CAUTION: THE MADISON WILL BE HOT WHILE
IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTH
ING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY
CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. OVERFIR
ING MAY CAUSE A HOUSE FIRE, OR CAN
RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE
STOVE. IF ANY PART OF THE STOVE GLOWS,
YOU ARE OVERFIRING.
The Madison features an automatic thermostat to
ensure an even heat output at any manual setting
you select. As the fuel burns, the thermostat reacts to
the heat radiating from the stove surface and, consequently, adjusts the air shutter attached to it. As the fire
intensity (and heat output) builds, the thermostat slowly
closes the air shutter, thereby restricting incoming combustion air. As the fire intensity then wanes (and heat
output lessens), the thermostat responds and gradually
opens the air shutter which allows more combustion air
to again enliven the fire. This ebb and flow action functions continuously to prolong the burn cycle until the
fuelbed is exhausted.
-
-
Another separate supply of oxygen is delivered to the
upper area of the firebox to support combustion of
gases released from the main fuel bed. This Second-ary Air enters the stove through two, unrestricted inlets
and is heated while passing through separate channels
before being delivered through three stainless steel
multi-ported tubes located at the top of the firebox.
Burn Only High-Quality Wood
THE MADISON IS DESIGNED TO BURN NATURAL
WOOD ONLY; DO NOT BURN ANY OTHER FUELS.
You will enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be no longer than 18” (457mm) in length, however, you will find that shorter wood lengths ease refueling and promote the most efficient combustion.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and airdried outside under cover for at least one year.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, commonly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
Keep wood a safe distance from the heater and keep
it out of the areas around the heater used for refueling
and ash removal.
Use the Air Control Setting that
Works Best for You
No single air control setting will be appropriate for every
situation. Settings will differ depending on the quality of
the fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you
wish the fire to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Madison, and could even damage it. On the other
hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing into the
room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrollable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inadequate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
glass.
30001453
17
Vermont Castings Madison
In newer homes that are well-insulated and weathertight, poor draft may result from insufficient air in the
house. In such cases, a slightly opened window near
the stove on the windward side of the house will provide
the fresh air needed.
A more effective option for delivering ample combustion
air to the stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to
the stove. In fact, in some areas, provisions for outside
combustion air are required in all new construction. The
optional Madison Outside Air Adapter is available from
your dealer.
When you first begin using the stove, pay attention
to the air control settings. You will quickly find that a
specific setting will give you a fixed amount of heat. It
may take some time to determine the amount of heat
and the length of burn you should expect from various
settings.
Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing
of your heater by altering the air control adjustment
range outlined in these directions.
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
Madison Control Settings
Burn Rate Primary Air Control Shutter Position
High Left most position Fully Open
Medium Half Open
Low Right most position Fully Closed
Before you begin using the stove, please read the Appendix on Draft Management, starting on Page 22, to
learn how the characteristics of your particular installation will affect your stove’s performance. You and the
stove are parts of a system; other parts of the system
have a strong effect on performance. You may need to
vary your firing technique to get the results you desire.
Starting and Maintaining a Fire
The Primary Air Inlet must be open when starting a
fire or when refueling.
Step 1. Open the primary air control fully. (Lever at left
most position)
Step 2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper
in the stove. Avoid using glossy or colored paper, as
these burn poorly. At the front of the firebox, place on
the paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a
finger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2” (2551mm) in diameter. (Fig. 27)
ST263
Fig. 27 Start a fire with small, dry kindling.
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the doors.
Gradually build up the fire by adding a few 3-5” (80120 mm) diameter splits. (Fig. 28) If this is one of
the first few “break-in” fires, let the fire burn brightly,
and then let it die out.
• During the break-in fires, don’t let the stove get
hotter than 500°F. (260°C) as measured on an op
tional stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control
lever as necessary to control the fire.
• Some odor from the stove’s hot metal, the paint,
and the cement is normal for the first few fires.
Conditioning Your Stove
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you first begin using your Madison,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in fires following Steps 1- 3.
BURN SOLID WOOD FUEL ONLY, AND BURN IT
DIRECTLY ON THE GRATE. DO NOT ELEVATE THE
FUEL. DO NOT BURN COAL OR OTHER FUELS.
WARNING: OPERATE THIS STOVE ONLY WITH THE
DOORS FULLY CLOSED.
18
ST264
Fig. 28 Gradually add larger pieces of wood until all the wood
is burning well.
30001453
Vermont Castings Madison
NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to sustain a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple
pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the
kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,
and close the doors. This should heat the chimney
enough to initiate strong draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front doors
and light the rest of the fuel bed at the bottom. Do
not light the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing.
Step 4. After the stove has been broken-in using Steps
1-3, continue to build the fire gradually. Add larger
wood with a diameter of 3-4” (75-100 mm).
Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-
burning fire until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 2” (50 mm) deep. A good ember bed is neces
sary for proper functioning and may take up to an
hour to establish.
Step 5. Adjust the thermostatic air control for the de
sired heat output.
-
-
Refuel While the Embers Are Still Hot
Reload the Madison while it is still hot and there are
plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the fire. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel
to help the stove return to its operating temperature
quickly. Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure
when you reload your stove:
Step 1. Open the thermostat lever.
Step 2. Open the doors and check the ash level in the
ash pan. If necessary, dispose of the ashes and
replace the pan.
Step 3. Use a fireplace tool to break up the charcoal
and direct ash through the grate. Pull the charcoal
from the back to the front.
Step 4. Load wood — smaller, split pieces first. Close
the doors. Ideal performance will be achieved by
operating with the air control set in the maximum
(HIGH) positon for several minutes after refueling.
Reset the primary air control for the desired heat
output after the fire is re-established.
Ash Disposal
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each refueling. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the
stove by its handle. Remove the ash pan and properly
dispose of the ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during disposal.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Madison; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Dispose of ashes into a metal container with a tight-fit
ting lid, kept outdoors. Put the closed container of ash
on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away
from all combustible materials, pending final disposal.
If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, keep it in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can use wood ash
as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always
remove and dispose of the ash properly.
CAUTION: Avoid slamming the stove door or
striking the glass panel. Do not operate the
stove with the glass panel missing, damaged,
or broken. Do not install substitute materials. See Maintenance section for replacement
instructions.
-
Smoke Detectors
The use of smoke detectors throughout the home is
strongly advised, if not required by building codes or insurance regulations. It is a good idea to install a smoke
detector in the living areas and each bedroom.
You may not, however, wish to install a detector in the
immediate vicinity of the stove. Depending on the sensi
tivity of the unit, the alarm can be set off while you are
tending the fire or emptying the ashes. If you install a
detector in the same room, locate it as far away from
the stove as possible.
-
30001453
19
Vermont Castings Madison
Maintenance
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
procedure.
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Madison looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with Vermont Castings high temperature stove paint. Apply the paint sparingly, and
keep in mind that two light coats of paint are better than
a single heavy one.
Care of Porcelain Enamel Finish
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difficult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Cleaning the Glass
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot fires. However, the ash residue that accumulates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
glass:
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive cleaners.
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Glass Replacement
Replace glass only with Vermont Castings glass panels. The glass panel rests on a cushion provided by a
gasket, and is held in place by two clips. The glass is
coated on one side which is slightly colored. Remove
the door from the stove and place it on a sturdy, level
work surface. Use a towel to protect the porcelain
enamel finish.
1. Remove the Retainer Clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip).
2. Inspect the Gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace it,
use only Vermont Castings gasket 1203556. Be sure
the channel around the window opening is clean,
and free of dust.
Place the gasket into the panel inset.
3. Install the Glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket
with the coated side down, marked “This Side Out”
(toward the outside of the door). Tighten the screws
snugly, but loose enough to allow for a little move-
ment of the glass when the stove is in operation.
Overtightening can crack the glass immediately or
cause it to crack if it is unable to expand when hot.
Gasket Replacement
Your Madison uses rope-type fiberglass gaskets to
make a tight seal between some parts. With use, particularly on those parts that move, gaskets can become
brittle and compressed and can begin to lose their effectiveness. These will need periodic replacement.
The sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below, along
with their applications.
Gasket Size
3/8” Fiberglass Door Gasket - 1203589
Wait until the fire is out and the stove has cooled. Be
sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working
with dusty materials: Wear safety goggles and a dust
mask.
Step 1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an
end and pulling firmly.
Step 2. Use a wire brush or a screwdriver to clean
the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket.
Remove stubborn deposits of cement with a cold chisel
if necessary.
Step 3. Determine the correct length of the appropriate-sized gasket by laying it out in the channel. Allow
an extra 1-2” (25-50 mm), and mark the spot to be cut.
Step 4. Remove the gasket from the channel, place it
on a wood cutting surface, and cut it at the marked spot
with a utility knife.
Twist the ends slightly to discourage the gasket from
unraveling.
Step 5. Lay an unbroken 1/8” (3 mm) bead of gasket
cement in the newly-cleaned channel.
Step 6. Starting at one end, press the gasket into the
channel.
Ensure a good joint where the gasket meets before
trimming any excess. Do not overlap the gasket ends
or leave ends with ragged edges.
Step 7. Press the gasketed part firmly against its
normal mating surface to seat the gasket evenly in its
channel. Close and latch the door to do this; close the
door on a piece of waxed paper to keep the cement
from migrating onto the non-gasketed part, or mask
other parts
Step 8. Clean excess cement from around the channel. Let the cement that holds the new gasket dry
thoroughly.
20
30001453
Vermont Castings Madison
The Chimney System
Creosote
Your Madison is designed to reduce creosote buildup
significantly. However, regular chimney inspection and
maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good
stove performance, and to protect your chimney and
chimney connector, inspect your chimney and chimney
connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if
necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector
system clean can result in a serious chimney fire.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar,
organic vapors and moisture that combine to form
creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the
relatively cool chimney flue. As a result, creosote
residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire
within the flue system that can damage the chimney
and overheat adjacent combustible material.
If you do have a chimney fire, promptly:
• Close the thermostat lever.
• Get everyone out of the house.
• Call the Fire Department.
You should inspect the system every two weeks during
the heating season as part of a regular maintenance
schedule. To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool
completely. Then, using a mirror and a strong light,
sight up through the flue collar into the chimney flue. If it
is not possible to inspect the flue system in this fashion,
the stove must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated
— 1/8” (3mm) or more — remove it to reduce the risk
of a chimney fire.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and
shape as the flue liner. Flexible fiberglass rods are
used to run the brush up and down the liner, causing
any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where
they can be removed through the clean-out door.
The chimney connector should be cleaned by disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure the
individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself,
contact your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer
or hire a professional chimney sweep.
Annual Maintenance
Perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair
each Spring, at the end of the heating season.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
• Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration.
Replace weak sections of prefabricated chimney.
Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
• Inspect the chimney connector and replace any dam
aged sections.
• Clean ash debris from under the primary air plate.
See procedure below.
• Check gasketing for wear or compression, and
replace if necessary. A ‘paper test’ will guide you
on this. Close and lock the door on a slip of paper
and then try to pull the paper out. If the paper pulls
out with little or no resistance, the gasket isn’t snug
enough at that spot. If adjusting the latch doesn’t
result in a seal that makes it hard to pull the paper
out, replace the gasketing.
• Check door handle for tightness. Adjust if needed.
• Check heat shield screws. Tighten as necessary.
• Clean dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear and
connector heat shields.
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with
moisture absorbing material (such as cat litter) to
keep the stove interior dry. Close the stove door to
keep cats from using the litter.
• Touch up the paint on black stoves.
Clean the Primary Air Outlet
1. Remove the phillips head screws that retain the
Primary Air Plate.
2. Use a screwdriver to pry the plate out of the cement-
ed seams.
3. Remove ash debris from the cavity.
4. Use high-temperature furnace cement to reseal the
front seam and side seams and replace the plate.
Secure with the phillips head screws.
-
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21
Vermont Castings Madison
Draft Management
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes the
chimney, the operator, the fuel and the home. The other
parts of the system will affect how well the stove works.
When there is a good match between all the parts, the
stove works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top
of the chimney. The greater the temperature difference, the stronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas
rises out of the chimney it generates suction that draws
air into the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with
the stove’s air inlets fully open indicates a weak draft.
A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the stove
through the normal inlets, indicates a good draft. The
inlets are passive; they regulate how much air can enter
the stove, but they do not move air into it.
The efficiency of a modern woodburning appliance,
(in which the amount of air available for combustion is
regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust
gases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics
of your chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior
or exterior, matched or mismatched to the stove collar
- determine how quickly it will warm up and how well
it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary to
maintain strong draft and efficient combustion. Here follows a description of various flue system characteristics
and related effects on stove performance.
Masonry Chimney
Although masonry is the traditional material used for
chimney construction, it can have distinct performance
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combustion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’
- that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of
time. The large mass, however, may take a long time to
become hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The larger
the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take to
warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust gases
enough to diminish draft strength. This problem is compounded if the chimney is located outside the home or if
the chimney flue has a cross-sectional size larger than
the stove outlet.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a
layer of insulation around the inner flue. This insulation
keeps the smoke warm and protects the surrounding
structure from the high flue temperatures. Because the
insulation is less dense than masonry, the inner steel
liner warms up more quickly than a masonry chimney.
Although steel chimneys are not as attractive as their
masonry counterparts, they are very durable and generally outperform masonry.
22
Inside/Outside Location
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This location uses the house as insulation for the flue and allows
some radiant heat release from the flue into the home.
Since an interior chimney does not continuously lose its
heat to the outdoors, it takes less heat from the stove to
get it warm and keep it warm.
Flue Sizing
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance
should be based on the cross-sectional volume of the
stove flue outlet. In this case, more is definitely not
better. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if a
stove with a six-inch flue collar (28 square inch area)
is vented into a 10” x 10” flue, the gases will expand to
over three times their original volume. As gases cool
with expansion, draft strength decreases. If an oversized flue is also outside the house, the heat it absorbs
will be conducted to the outdoor air and the flue will
remain relatively cool.
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the
stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm
up and the stove performance will likely be disappointing. The best solution to an oversize flue problem is
the installation of an insulated steel chimney liner of
the same diameter as the appliance flue outlet. The
liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a
stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to its
original volume, the air around the liner will require time
and heat energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install
a flue liner in any oversize or masonry flue.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the exhaust as it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap.
The ideal pipe and chimney layout is straight up from
the stove through a completely straight chimney. Use
this layout if at all possible as it will promote optimum
stove performance and simplify maintenance.
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate
the elbow about midway between the stove top and
the chimney thimble. This configuration lets the smoke
speed up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the
room for heat transfer, and allows long-term flexibility
for installing a different appliance without relocating the
thimble.
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Vermont Castings Madison
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for
longer runs.
Single Venting
Your stove requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect
the stove to a flue used by any other appliance. Chimney draft is a natural form of energy and follows the
path of least resistance. If the stove is vented to a flue
that also serves an open fireplace or another appliance,
the draft will also pull air in through those avenues. The
additional air flow will lower flue temperatures, reduce
draft strength and promote creosote development; overall stove performance will suffer. The effect is similar
to that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose. In
some extreme instances, the other appliance can even
impose a negative draft and result in a dangerous draft
reversal.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well if
poor fuel is used. If available, always use hardwood
that has been air-dried (‘seasoned’) 12-18 months.
Softwood burns more rapidly than hardwood and has
a high resin content conducive to creosote production.
Decayed wood of any type has little heat value and
should not be used.
All unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture content. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate
moisture before the wood can burn. This significantly
reduces not only the amount of energy available to
warm your home, but also the intensity of the fire and
temperature of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion
and cool flue temperatures promote creosote formation
and weak draft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its appearance and weight or use a commercially available
moisture meter for an exact measurement. Unseasoned
wood will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also, look
for cracks (‘checking’) in the ends of the log that result
from contraction as the wood dries. The longer and
wider the cracks, the dryer the wood is. Purchase your
fuel from a reputable dealer.
Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove
operations, weak draft or both. It is a tar that results
when unburned gases condense inside the flue system at temperatures below 290°F. Creosote is volatile
and can generate chimney fire. All of the installation
characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also
promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you can
minimize creosote accumulation with an effective chim-
ney design and the use of operational techniques that
encourage good draft and complete combustion.
Backpuffing
Backpuffing is a condition that results when the draft is
too weak to pull flue gases out of the chimney system
as fast as the fire is generating more. Volatile gases
build up within the firebox until reaching a density and
temperature at which they ignite. With this ignition, you
may hear a muffled popping sound and see a bit of
smoke forced out of the air inlets.
This condition is most likely to occur in the spring or fall
when moderate outdoor temperatures and low intensity fires combine to inhibit draft strength. If your stove
backpuffs, open the air inlets to induce a livelier fire
and speed airflow through the stove. Avoid large loads
of firewood at one time. You should always see lively,
dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is inefficient and will promote draft problems.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a sufficient supply of air
to the stove. The chimney cannot pull more air than is
available. Sluggish draft can be caused by a house that
is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to the
stove, or by competition between the stove and other
appliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e., exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom,
etc. If the chimney draws well when all such equipment
is turned off (or sealed, in the case of the fireplaces
and/or other stoves), you simply need to be attentive in
timing the use of the other appliances. If you need to
crack a nearby window or door to enable the chimney
to pull well, you should install an outside-air intake to
bring combustion air directly to the stove. Consult your
Vermont Castings dealer regarding an adapter to attach
to the stove to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
Conclusion
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art includes technique and since installations, homes and
fuel vary, the stove operator must also vary technique,
(mostly timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over
time, you will become familiar with the intricacies and
nuances of your particular installation and you will be
able to identify cause and effect in a variety of seasonal
circumstances.
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Vermont Castings Madison
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CFM Specialty Home Products reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products
at any time, without notice.
Madison Woodburning Stove
Model 1655, 1656, 1657, 1658, 1659
Item Description Part Number Item Description Part Number
Shell Enamel Parts - Madison Model 1655
Part Name Classic Green Moonlight Sand Red Suede Brown
Top 30000817 30001213 3001203 30001193 30001183 30002599
Left Side 30000797 30001211 30001201 30001191 30001181 30002597
Right Side 30000796 30001210 30001200 30001190 30001180 30002596
Flue Collar 7000969 2310969 30001258 7020969 2320969 30002607
Front 30000808 30001212 30001202 30001192 30001182 30002598
Ashlip 30000815 30001214 30001204 30001194 30001184 30002595
Left Door
Subassembly 30001173 30001241 30001237 30001233 30001229 30002605
Left Door Only 30000810 30001216 30001206 30001196 30001186 30002601
Right Door
Subassembly 30001172 30001240 30001236 30001232 30001228 30002604
Right Door Only 30000809 30001215 30001205 30001195 30001185 30002600
Single Leg 30000816 30001218 30001208 30001198 30001188 30002603
Load Door 30000811 30001217 30001207 30001197 30001187 30002606
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Warranty
Vermont Castings Madison
Limited 3 Year Warranty
CFM Specialty Home Products warrants that this woodburning
stove will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a
period of three years from the date you receive it, except that the
catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.
CFM Specialty Home Products will repair or replace,
at its option, any part found to be defective upon inspection
by a CFM Specialty Home Products Authorized Dealer. The
customer must return the defective part or the stove, with
shipping prepaid, to the Authorized Dealer or pay for any Au
thorized Dealer in-home travel fees or service charges for inhome repair work. It is the dealer’s option whether the repair
work will be done in the customer’s home or in the dealer’s
shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is found to be the fault
of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no charge to
the customer for parts and/or labor.
Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired
or replaced during the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not
to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty
or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted
to be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period
of one year from the date you receive it: The thermostat assembly, handles, glass door panels, cement, and gasketing.
Any of these items found to be defective will be repaired or
replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part with postage prepaid to a CFM Specialty Home Products Authorized
Dealer.
Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the limited
warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of
the original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is
longer.
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original
retail purchase is required.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the this stove.
Misuse includes overfiring which will result if the stove is used
in such a manner as to cause one or more of the plates to
glow red. Overfiring can be identified later by warped plates
and areas where the paint pigment has burned off. Overfiring
in enamel fireplaces is identified by bubbling, cracking, chip
ping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel finish. CFM
Specialty Home Products offers no warranty on chipping of
enamel surfaces. Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any damage to the enamel.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as
described in the Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover any stove
which has been modified unless authorized by a CFM Spe
cialty Home Products representative in writing. This warranty
does not cover damage to the stove caused by burning salt
saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel not
recommended in the Owner’s Guide.
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4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by some
one other than a CFM Specialty Home Products Authorized
Dealer.
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this
warranty but is subject to a claim against the common carrier.
Contact CFM Specialty Home Products Authorized Dealer
from whom you purchased your stove or CFM Specialty
Home Products if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate
the stove as this may negate the ability to process the claim
with the carrier.)
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not
conform to local building and fire codes or, in their absence,
to the recommendations in our Owner’s Guide.
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-hu
midity environment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel
finish. These conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron
beneath the porcelain enamel finish, which will cause the por
celain enamel finish to flake off. This warranty does not cover
damage caused by a salt air or high-humidity environment.
8. CFM Specialty Home Products shall have no obligation
to enhance or update any unit once manufactured.
IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM SPECIALTY HOME PRODUCTS BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING
THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND
FITNESS, ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS
WRITTEN WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES
ALL OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of
incidential and consequential damages or limitations on how
long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations may
not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific rights and
you may have other rights which vary from state to state.
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How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer
should contact a CFM Specialty Home Products Authorized
Dealer or CFM Specialty Home Products if the purchase was
direct with the following information:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-
chaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g.,
installation, mode of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Specialty
Home Products reserves the right to withhold final approval of
a warranty claim pending a visual inspection of the defect by
authorized representatives.