General Infor mation: If names like Eric Clapton, Jimi Hend rix, and B.B. King
have personal meaning for you, you're gonna love this ki t! Today's solid-state
amps can't match the booming sound of the legendary tube-driven powerhouses
built by Fender and Marshall. The key to that magic lies with the electron tube-or "valve"--which has much softer saturation characteristics than the sharply
clipped response of transistor amplifiers.
With the VEC-1680K in line, your guitar's magnetic pick-ups are terminated
with the true ultra-high impedance load they were designed to feed, which
unleashes your instrument's natural full-bodied frequency response. And, when
you crank up the gain, each note expands in richness with warm even-order
harmonics, unlike the more jolting odd-order harmonics generated by transistors.
Virtually every great tube guitar amp ever built used a 12AX7 in its preamplifier
stage. When you fire up your VEC-1680K, you'll understand why!
Circuitry: The VEC-1680K uses a 12AX7 twin-triode, which is really two
individual tubes packaged in one glass envelope. The first stage runs "wide
open", with no manual gain control or negative feedback circuitry to load it
down. A Gain (or drive) control then regulates how hard you push the preamp's
second stage. Drive it lightly, and you get bell-like clarity. Drive it harder, and
you'll introduce progressively more fullness and grit! Most of the preamp's
distortion and coloring occurs in the second stage. At the preamp's output, the
signal is attenuated back down to "guitar" level. The Output control provides
added variable attenuation to set the optimum drive level for your power amp. A
built-in relay connected to the audio jacks lets you bypass the preamp, or--with
the click of a foot switch bring it on-line.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Construction Area: Kit construction requires a clean, smooth, and well-lighted
area where you can easily organize and handle small parts without losing them.
An inexpensive sheet of white poster board makes an excellent construction
surface, while providing protection for the underlying table or desk. Diffused
overhead lighting is a plus, and a supplemental high-intensity desk lamp is
especially helpful for close-up work. Safety is always important! Use a suitable
high-temperature stand for your soldering iron, and keep the work area free of
clutter.
Universal Kit-building Tools: No sp ecial tools are required to complete this kit
beyond common items normall y used for bench constructio n. We recommend
the following:
! Soldering Iron (grounded-tip and temperature-controlled preferred)
1
VEC-1680K Owner’s Manual Vacuum Tube Preamp
! High-temperature Iron Holde r with Cleaning Sponge
! Solder, 60/40 or 37/63 with rosin or "no-clean" flux (.031" dia. is good
size).
! Needle Nose Pliers or Surgical Hemostats
! Diagonal Cutters or "Nippy Cutters"
! Solder Sucker (squeeze or vacuum pump type), or Desoldering Braid
! Bright Desk Lamp
! Magnifying Glass
BEFORE YOU START BUILDING
Experience shows there are four common mistakes builders make. Avoid these,
and your kit will probably work on the first try! Here's what they are:
1. Installing the Wrong Part: It always pays to double-check each step. A 1K
and a 10K resistor may look almost the same, but they may act very
differently in an electronic circuit! Same for capacitors--a device marked
102 (or .001 uF) may have very different operating characteristics from one
marked 103 (or .01uF).
2. Installing Parts Backwards: Always check the polarity of electrolytic
capacitors to make sure the positive (+) lead goes in the (+) hole on the
circuit board. ICs have a notch or dot at one end indicating the correct
direction of insertion. Always double-check--especially before applying
power to the circuit!
3. Faulty Solder Connections: Inspect for cold-solder joints and solder
bridges. Cold solder joints happen when you don't fully heat the connection-or when metallic corrosion and oxide contaminate a component lead or pad.
Solder bridges form when a trail of excess solder shorts pads or tracks
together (see solder tips below).
4. Omitting or Misreading a Part: T his is easier to do than you might think!
Always double-check to make sure you completed each step in an assembly
sequence.
Soldering Tips:Cleanliness and good heat distribution are the two secrets of
professional soldering. Before you install and solder each part, inspect leads or
pins for oxidation. If the metal surface is dull, sand with fine emery paper until
shiny. Allow the tip of your iron to contact both the lead and pad for about one
second (count "one-thousand-one") before feeding solder to the connection.
Surfaces must become hot enough for solder to flow smoothly. Feed solder to
2
VEC-1680K Owner’s Manual Vacuum Tube Preamp
the opposite side of the lead from your iron tip--solder will wick around the lead
toward the tip, wetting all exposed surfaces. Apply solder sparingly, and do not
touch solder directly to the hot iron tip to promote rapid melting. Keep a damp
sponge handy to wipe your so ldering tip on. This removes excess solde r, and
keeps the tip properly tinned. If the iron is going to sit idling for long periods,
wipe the tip, add some fresh solder, and unplug the iron.
Desoldering Tips: If you make a mistake and need to remove a part, follow
these instructions carefully! First, grasp the component with hemostats, needlenose pliers, or your fingers. Heat the pad beneath the lead you intend to extract,
and pull gently. The lead should come out. Repeat for the other lead. Solder
may fill in behind the lead as you extract it--especially if you are working on a
double-sided b o ar d with plat e-thr o ugh hol es. Sho uld this ha pp e n, tr y heat ing the
pad again and inserting a common pin into the hole. Solder won't stick to the
pin's chromium plating. When the pad cools, remove the pin and insert the
correct component. For ICs or multiple-pin parts, use desoldering braid to
remove excess solder before attempting to extract the part. Alternatively, a lowcost vacuum-bulb or spring-loaded solder sucker may be used. Parts damaged or
severely overheated during extraction should be replaced rather than reinstalled.
Work Habits: Kit construction requires the ability to follow detailed
instructions and, in many cases, to perform new and unfamiliar tasks. To avoid
making needless mistakes, work for short periods when you're fresh and alert.
Recreational construction projects are more informative and more fun when you
take your time. Enjoy!
Sorting and Reading Resistors: The electrical value of resistors is indicated by
a color code (shown below). You don't have to memorize this code to work with
resistors, but you do need to understand how it works:
Resistor Color Code
1st Digit
2nd Digit
Multiplier
Tolerence
(gold or silver)
Black = 0 (tens)
Brown = 1 (hundreds)
Red = 2 (K)
Orange = 3 (10K)
Yellow = 4 (100K)
Green = 5 (1Meg)
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Gray = 8
White = 9
Silver = 10%
Gold = 5%
When you look at a resistor, check its multiplier code first. Any resistor with a
black multiplier band falls between 10 and 99 ohms in value. Brown designates
a value between 100 and 999 ohms. Red indicates a value from 1000 to 9999
ohms, which is also expressed as 1.0K to 9.9K. An orange multiplier band
designates 10K to 99K, etc. To inventory resistors, first separate them into
3
VEC-1680K Owner’s Manual Vacuum Tube Preamp
groups by multiplier band (make a pile of 10s, 100s, Ks, 10Ks, etc.). Next, sort
each group by specific value (1K, 2.2K, 4.7K, etc). This procedure makes the
inventory easier, and also makes locating specific parts more convenient later on
during construction. Some builders find it especially helpful to arrange resistors
in ascending order along a strip of double-sided tape.
Reading Capacitors: Unlike resistors, capacitors no longer use a color code for
value identification. Instead, the value, or a 3-number code, is printed on the
body.
Value Code
10 pF = 100
100 pF = 101
1000 pF = 102
.001 uF = 102*
.01 uF = 103
.1 uF = 104
Multilayer
(270 pF)
271
Ceramic Discs
(.001 uF) (.1 uF)
102
104
Electrolytic
1 uF
|
1uF
|
35V
+
-
As with resistors, it's helpful to sort capacitors by type, and then to arrange them
in ascending order of value. Small-value capacitors are characterized in pF (or
pico-Farads), while larger values are labeled in uF (or micro-Farads). The
transition from pF to uF occurs at 1000 pF (or .001 uF)*. Today, most
monolithic and disc-ceramic capacitors are marked with a three-number code.
The first two digits indicate a numerical value, while the last digit indicates a
multiplier (same as resistors).
Electrolytic capacitors are always marked in uF. Electrolytics are polarized
devices and must be oriented correctly during installation. If you become
confused by markings on the case, remember the uncut negative lead is slightly
shorter than the positive lead.
Danger---High Voltage Warning:
volt wall adapter, a second internal trans former boosts voltages back up to
lethal levels to supply plate voltage to the 12AX7 tube! This voltage can
painfully shock, injure, or even cause death if you touch it!
tube-type equipment without first turning off and un-plugging the power
source from the AC mains!
capacitors before working on tube amplifier circuitry. This added safety
procedure will be described in the
manual.
Although your pre-amp runs from a 12-
Never work on
Also, you should discharge power supply filter
Testing and Alignment
section of the
PARTS LIST
Your kit should contain all of the parts listed below. Please identify and
inventory each item on the checklist before you start building. If any parts are
missing or damaged, refer to the manual's warranty section for replacement
4
VEC-1680K Owner’s Manual Vacuum Tube Preamp
instructions. If you can't positively identify an unfamiliar item on the basis of the
information given, set it aside until all other items are checked off. You may
then be able to identify it by process of elimination. Finally, your kit will go
together more smoothly if parts are organized by type and arranged by value
ahead of time. Use this inventory as an opportunity to sort and arrange parts so
you can identify and find them quickly.
The term solder means to solder the part's leads in place, and to inspect both (or
all) solder connections for flaws or solder bridges. Nip off excess protruding
leads with a sharp pair of side cutters.
Begin construction by locating the 2-sided PC board. Find the side of the board
with long horizontal tracks on it. This will be called the solder-side during
construction. Flip it over to the side with no tracks. This will be called the
component side. Unless otherwise indicated, parts will be mounted on the
component side (exceptions are three large electrolytic capacitors and two gain
controls to be mounted on the other side).
Orient the PC board component-side up.
This kit has 11 fixed-value resistors. Mount these now, starting with the smallest
value and moving to the largest. Before mounting each one, carefully bend both
leads close to the resistor body to form right-angles, as shown below:
Not Good
Locate two (2) 100 ohm 2 watt resistors (brown-black-brown).
! ! Install a 100 ohm at R12 and solder.
! ! Install a 100 ohm at R13 and solder.
Locate two (2) 3.3K ½ watt resistors (orange-orange-red).
! ! Install a 3.3K at R1 and solder.
! ! Install a 3.3K at R11 and solder.
Locate two (2) 10K ¼ watt resistors (brown-black-orange).
! ! Install a 10K at R5 and solder.
! ! Install a 10K at R7 and solder.
! ! Find a 22K ¼ watt resistor (red-red-orange). Install at R8 and solder.
Locate two (2) 390K ¼ watt resistors (orange-white-yellow).
8
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