To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine
To Take Out the Bobbin
To Wind the Bobbin
To Replace the Bobbin
To Set the Needle
To Thread the Needle
To Prepare for Sewing
To Commence Sewing
To Remove the Work
Tensions
To Regulate Tensions
To Turn a Corner
To Regulate the Length of Stitch
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams
A Stitch to Ravel Easily
To Oil the Machine
Hints
The Belt
Machine WOrking Heavily
To Avoid Breaking Needles
Breaking of Needle Thread
Breaking of Bobbin Thread
Skipping of Stitches
Attachments with the Machine
Instructions for Using the Attachments
Foot Hemmer
-- Hemming
-- Hemming and
Sewing on Lace
-- Felling
Adjustable Hemmer
-- Hemming
-- Wide Hemming
Binder -- Binding
Bias Gauge
-- To Bind with Dress Braid
Ruffling
Ruffler -- Ruffling Between Bands
To Ruffle and Sew On
-- Five Stitch Ruffling or Paiting
Ruffler with Shirring Plate -- Shirring
Quilter
Tucker
Under Braider
Embroidary and Darning
Relative Sizes of Needles and Thread
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Main Parts
82387 No. 66
Parts of the Machine Stand
A. BELT GUIDE
B. BAND WHEEL
C. BAND WHEEL CRANK
D. PITMAN
E. TREADLE
F. BELT SHIFTER
G. LEG
H. DRESS GUARD
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82387 No. 66
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
OPERATING THE MACHINE
Raise the presser foot (B. Fig. 3) by means of
the presser bar lifter (C, Fig. 3) to prevent
injury to the foot (B. Fig. 3) and feed (A, Fig.
.3).
It is necessary to understand the stop motion
(D, Fig. 3) by which the balance wheel (E,
Fig. 3) can be released when required, thus
enabling the operator to become proficient in
the use of the treadle and permitting the
winding of bobbins without running the stitching mechanism. It also allows the operator to
wind bobbins without removing partially sewn
work and without unthreading the machine.
To release the balance wheel (E, Fig. 3) turn
the stop motion screw (D, Fig. 3, page 3)
over toward you. It may be necessary to hold
the balance wheel while loosening the stop
motion screw.
After releasing the balance wheel place your
feet upon the treadle and with the right hand,
turn the balance wheel over toward you. This
will start the band wheel, treadle and pitman,
the sewing mechanism having been disconnected.
FIG.3. FRONT VIEW OF THE MACHINE
Continue the motion thus begun by an alternate pressure of heel and toe, until a regular
and easy movement is acquired, and the balance wheel kept in continuous rotation by use
of the feet alone.
When you are thoroughly familiar with the
treadle movement, and can restart the
machine without turning the balance wheel in
the wrong direction, tighten the stop motion
screw to connect the balance wheel with the
stitching mechanism.
Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot,
let the foot down upon it, and operate the
machine in this way without being threaded,
until you have become accustomed to guiding
the material.
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82387 No. 66
To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine
The balance wheel must always turn over
toward the operator.
Do not run the machine with the presser foot
resting on the feed without cloth under the
presser foot.
Do not run the machine when both bobbin
case and needle are threaded unless there is
material under the presser foot.
Do not try to help the machine by pulling the
fabric lest you bend the needle. The machine
feeds the work without assistance.
The slide over the bobbin case should be
kept closed when the machine is in operation.
FIG. 4. REMOVING THE BOBBIN
To Take Out the Bobbin
Draw to the left the slide in the bed of the
machine and press the forefinger of the right
hand upon the bobbin ejected as shown
above; this will raise the bobbin so that it can
be easily taken out.
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82387 No. 66
To Wind the Bobbin
Release the balance wheel (E, Fig. 3, page
3) by turning the stop motion screw (D, Fig.
3, page 3) over toward you.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle (E, Fig. 6, page 7) and push it up closely
against the shoulder, having the small pin in
the spindle enter the hole in the side of the
bobbin. Put the spool of thread on the spool
pin (1, Fig. 5). Pass the end of the thread into
the thread guide (2, Fig. 5) then up into the
lower eyelet (3, Fig. 6) of the bobbin winder
thread guide, into the notch (4, Fig. 6) and
pass the thread through the hole in the left
side of the bobbin (5, Fig. 6) from the inside.
Press the bobbin winder pulley (B, FIG. 6)
down on the balance wheel hub and the latch
(C, Fig. 6) will drop down and hold it. Then
operate the treadle the same as for sewing.
FIG. 5. MACHINE THREADED
FOR WINDING THE BOBBIN
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82387 No. 66
To Wind the Bobbin continued...
The end of the thread must be held by the
hand unti1 a few coils are wound and should
then be broken off. Figs. 5 and 6 show the
bobbin winder properly threaded and in position for winding. When sufficient thread has
been wound upon the bobbin it is automatically released from the stop latch (C, Fig. 6).
If the pressure of the rubber ring (B, Fig. 6)
against the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient for winding the bobbin, loosen the
adjusting screw (D, Fig. 6) and press the bobbin winder lightly until the rubber ring is in
contact with the hub of the balance wheel;
then tighten the screw.
FIG. 6. WINDING THE BOBBIN
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82387 No. 66
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the thread leading on
top from the right toward the left, as shown in
Fig. 7.
Place the bobbin into the bobbin case and
draw the thread into the slot (1, Fig. 8) in the
bobbin case, as shown below.
Draw the thread backward between the bobbin case and the tension spring until it reaches the notch (2, Fig. 9) then pull the thread
toward the right as shown in Fig. 9.
When closing the slide see that the thread is
in the slot (3, Fig. 10) in the right edge of the
slide, as shown below.
FIG. 7.REPLACING THE BOBBIN
FIG. 8. THREADING the BOBBIN CASE
FIG. 9. BOBBIN CASE THREADED
FIG. 10. UNDER THREADING COMPLETED
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82387 No. 66
To Set the Needle
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the needle bar moves up to its highest point
in the sleeve (D, Fig. 5), loosen the thumb
screw (C, Fig. 5) in the needle clamp (B. Fig.
5) and put the needle up into the clamp as far
as it will go, with its flat side toward the right,
then tighten the thumb screw.
To Thread the Needle
SEE FIG. 11
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the thread take-up lever (5) is raised to its
highest point. Place the spool of thread on
the spool pin at the top of the machine; lead
the thread into the thread guide (1) at the left,
down, under and from right to left between
the tension discs (2), into the small wire
spring (3), under the thread regulator (4) at
the left (not through the eye in the thread regulator), up and from right to left through the
hole in the end of the thread take-up lever
(5), down into the eyelet (6), into the lower
wire guide (7), then from left to right through
the eye of the needle (8).
FIG. 11. THREADING THE NEEDLE
Draw about two inches of thread through the
eye of the needle with which to commence
sewing.
Instructions for threading the machine for
darning and for embroidery are given on
pages 34 and 35.
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82387 No. 66
To Prepare for Sewing
With the left hand hold the end of the needle
thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the
needle.
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the needle moves down and up again to its
highest point, thus catching the bobbin
thread; draw up the needle thread and the
bobbin thread will come up with it through the
hole in the throat plate (see Fig. 12). Lay both
threads back under the presser foot.
To Commence Sewing
Place the material beneath the presser foot,
lower the presser foot and commence to sew,
turning the balance wheel over toward you.
FIG. 12. DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD
To Remove the Work
Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highest
point, raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, pass the threads over
the thread cutter (A, Fig. 12) and pull down
lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of the
threads under the presser foot.
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82387 No. 66
Tensions
For ordinary stitching the needle and bobbin
threads should be locked in the centre of the
thickness of the material, thus:
FIG. 13. PERFECT STITCH
If the tension on the needle thread is too
tight, or if that on the bobbin thread is too
loose, the needle thread will lie straight along
the upper surface of the material, thus:
FIG. 14. TIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight
or if hat on the needle thread is too loose, the
bobbin thread will lie straight along the under
side of the material, thus:
To Regulate the Tensions
The tension on the needle thread should only
be regulated when the presser foot is down.
Having lowered the presser foot, turn the
small thumb nut (E, shown in Fig. 16, above,
and Fig. 5, page 6) at the front of the tension
discs over to the right to increase the tension.
To decrease the tension, turn the thumb nut
over to the left.
FIG 16. NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated
by the larger screw (Fig. 4) which is nearest
the back in the bobbin case tension spring.
To increase the tension, turn the screw over
toward you. To decrease the tension, turn the
screw over from you.
FIG. 15. LOOSE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
been once properly adjusted it is seldom necessary to change it, as a correct stitch can
usually be obtained by varying the tension on
the needle thread.
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11
When the tension on the bobbin thread has
To Turn a Corner
82387 No. 66
Stop the machine with the needle at its lowest point. Raise the presser foot and turn the
work as desired, using the needle as a pivot.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch
The length of stitch is regulated by the large
thumb screw (A, Fig. 6) at the front of the
machine near the bobbin winder.
To lengthen the stitch turn this screw over to
the right. To shorten the stitch turn this screw
over to the left.
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
For ordinary family sewing it is seldom necessary to change the pressure on the material.
If sewing fine silk or flimsy material, lighten
the pressure by turning the thumb screw (A,
Fig. 5) on the top of the machine over to the
left.
To increase the pressure turn this screw over
to the right. The pressure should be only
heavy enough to prevent the material from
rising with the needle and to enable the feed
to move the work along evenly; a heavier
pressure will make the machine run hard.
To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams
Use a short stitch and as light a tension as
possible on the needle thread so as to leave
the thread loose enough in the seam to allow
the goods to stretch if necessary.
A Stitch to Ravel Easily
can be made if desired, by having the tension
on the needle thread so light that the bobbin
thread will not draw into the goods but lie
straight, as shown in Fig. 15.
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82387 No. 66
To Oil the Machine
To ensure easy running the machine and
stand requires oiling and if used continuously
it should be oiled each day. With moderate
use an occasional oiling is sufficient. Oil
should be applied at each of the places
shown by arrows in Figs. 17, 18 and 19. One
drop of oil at each point is sufficient. Oil holes
are provided in the machine for bearings
which cannot be directly reached.
To oil the mechanism under the slide, draw
the slide (see Fig. 17) to the left and after
removing the lint and dust which may have
accumulated put a few drops of oil on the
small piece of felt at the right of the bobbin
ejector. The slide should then be closed.
FIG. 17. FRONT VIEW, SHOWING OILING POINTS
Take out the thumb screw (A, Fig. 17) near
the lower end of the face plate, raise the
plate and slip it off over the head of the screw
near the upper end of the plate; put one drop
of oil into each of the oil holes and joints.
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13
82387 No. 66
To Oil the Machine continued...
At the back of the machine is a round plate or
cover, fastened by a thumb screw; loosen the
screw, turn the plate upward and fasten by
tightening the screw; turn the balance wheel
slowly and oil the moving parts inside then
turn the cover down and fasten it as before.
To reach the parts underneath the bed the
belt must be thrown off the band wheel on
the machine stand. For this purpose the belt
shifter (F. Fig. 1, page 1) is placed at the front
of the band wheel. By pressing the belt shifter
lever to the left and working the treadle
meanwhile, the belt is released and the
machine can then be turned back on its
hinges. The places to be oiled are indicated
in Fig. 18, page 17, by arrows pointing to the
oil holes and bearings.
FIG. 18. OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MACHINE
To oil the stand, put a drop of oil on each of
the places shown by arrows in the above
illustration (Fig. 19).
FIG. 19. POINTS IN STAND
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14
82387 No. 66
HINTS
The Belt.
See that the belt is not too tight; it should
always be tight enough not to slip. If too
loose remove the hook at one end, shorten
the belt and rejoin.
Machine Working Heavily.
If the machine runs hard after standing idle
for some time use a little kerosene in the oiling places, run the machine rapidly, then wipe
clean and oil.
To Avoid Breaking Needles.
See that the presser foot or attachments are
securely fastened by the thumb screw. Do not
sew heavy seams or very thick goods with
too fine a needle. A large needle and thread
to correspond should be used on heavy work
(see page 36).
See that the needle is not bent and avoid
pulling the material when stitching.
Breaking of Needle Thread.
If the needle thread breaks it may
be caused by:
Improper threading.
Tension being too tight.
The thread being too coarse
for size of needle.
The needle being bent, having a
blunt point, or being
set incorrectly.
Breaking of Bobbin Thread.
If the bobbin thread breaks it may
be caused by:
Improper threading of bobbin case.
Tension being too tight.
Skipping of Stitches.
The needle may not be accurately set into the
needle bar or the needle may be blunt or
bent. The needle may be too small for the
thread in use.
Singer Needles are the best for every kind of sewing
machine. They are the only satisfactory needles on the
market and are sold in the Singer Green Needle
Packet with the famous red letter "S" upon it. Singer
Needles can be obtained from any Singer Shop or
Singer Salesman.
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15
82387 No. 66
ATTACHMENTS WITH THE MACHINE
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16
82387 No. 66
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
THE ATTACHMENTS
FOOT HEMMER - Hemming
Raise the needle to its highest point. Remove
the presser foot and attach the toot hemmer
in its place (see Fig. 21). Clip off the right
hand corner of the cloth, so that it will take
the roll easily, turn up the edge about a quarter of an inch, insert it in the mouth of the
hemmer and draw or push it along with the
stiletto until under the needle. Then let down
the presser bar and after taking two or three
stitches, draw gently on the ends of the
threads to help the work along till the feed
catches it. In order to produce a smooth even
hem the mouth of the hemmer must be kept
just full.
Fig 21.
Fig. 21 shows also what is known as a bag
seam or fell, made by passing two pieces of
fabric through the hemmer together and hemming them down.
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82387 No. 66
FOOT HEMMER
Hemming and Sewing on Lace
Start the hem as previously explained, and
when it is well started raise the needle to its
highest point.
Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure on
tile hem, pass the end of the lace through the
slot in the side of the hemmer, under the
back of tile hemmer and over the hem, as
shown in Fig. 22.
Take care that the hem is not displaced in the
hemmer and that the needle goes down
through the lace and hem together. Then let
down tile presser bar and guide the lace over
the front of the hemmer, keeping it well into
the slot.
FIG. 22
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82387 No. 66
FOOT HEMMER
Felling
The two pieces of cloth to he felled should be
laid one over the other, right sides together,
the edge of the under piece being a little farther to tile right than the upper piece. Stitch
them together using the hemmer as a presser
foot, the front end of the hemmer forming a
guide for tile edges of both pieces, the upper
piece being guided by the inside and the
under piece by the outside of the projecting
front of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 23). Then
open the work out flat, wrong side up, the
edges straight, and taking the edges near the
beginning of the seam in the right hand, and
the ends of the threads in the left hand, draw
the edges into the hemmer which will ill turn
them as in hemming. Guide the second row
of stitching by following the first row with the
inside of the projecting front of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 24).
FIG. 23
FIG. 24
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82387 No. 66
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
Hemming
Remove the presser foot and attach the
adjustable hemmer in its place as shown in
Fig. 25. This hemmer will turn hems from
3/16 inch to 1 inch wide. The adjustment is
made by loosening the thumb screw on the
hemmer and moving the slide to the right or
left until the hem turned is of the desired
width. Enter the edge of the cloth into the
hemmer under the scale and draw it back
and forth until the hem is formed, stopping
with the end under the needle. Lower the
presser bar and commence to sew, being
careful to guide cloth as to keep hemmer full.
Felling can also be done with the adjustable
hemmer
FIG. 25
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER
Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than one inch wide take
out the thumb screw in the hemmer and
FIG. 26
remove the slide and pointer; fold and crease
down a hem of the desired width; pass the
fold under the extension at the right of the
hemmer, and the edge into the folder as
shown in Fig. 26 and proceed to stitch the
hem.
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82387 No. 66
BINDER
Binding
Remove the presser foot and attach the
binder in its place. Pass the binding through
the scroll of the hinder and draw it back
under the needle. Place the edge of the
goods to he bound between the scrolls of the
hinder and draw it under the needle. Lower
the presser bar and sew as usual. To make
French folds proceed as directed for binding
except that the fold is stitched on to the face
of the material instead of on the edge (see
Fig. 27). After loosening the binder set screw
and adjusting the binder the line of stitching
can be brought nearer the centre, this being
more effective when making French folds.
FIG. 28
BIAS GAUGE
The bias gauge may be used by placing it on
the point of a pair of scissors, as below, and
different widths of material may be cut by
adjusting the slide (S. Fig. 28,). Bias binding
for binder No. 36595 should be cut fifteen-sixteenths of an inch wide if muslin or similar
fabrics are used, and to do this the slide (S)
should be placed half way between the lines
marked "F" and "B." The edge of the goods
should be passed through the attachment
and against the slide while cutting. When
binding with fine, soft or flimsy materials, cut
the bias binding a suitable fraction wider.
BINDER
Bind with Dress Braid
FIG. 27
The braid being stitched on the edge it should
fit the binder without turning in the edges, as
is the case with bias binding.
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82387 No. 66
RUFFLER
Ruffling
Remove the presser foot and attach the ruffler in its place, connecting the arm with the
needle clamp, as shown in Fig. 29.
The ruffler can be adjusted to make a gather
or plait either at every stitch or once in every
five stitches as the operator may choose.
To make a ruffle with a gather or plait at
every stitch see that the adjusting lever (A,
Fig. 29) of the ruffling is at its lowest point.
Place the material to be ruffled between the
lower or separator blade and the ruffling
blade, draw the material slightly back of the
needle, lower the presser bar and proceed to
sew.
FIG. 29
To make a finer gather shorten the stroke of
the ruffling blade by turning the regulating
thumb screw (B. Fig. 29) over to the left, also
shorten the stitch. To make a fuller gather or
plait lengthen the stroke of the arm by turning
the regulating thumb screw (B. Fig. 29) over
to the right, also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjustments many pleasing varieties of work can be accomplished.
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82387 No. 66
RUFFLER
Ruffling Between Bands
Place the lower piece of material below the
separator blade, the piece of material to be
ruffled under the ruffling blade and over the
separator blade and the upper piece of material over the ruffling blade, as shown in Fig.
30.
TO RUFFLE AND SEW ON
Place the band below the separator blade the
piece to be ruffled between the separator
blade and the ruffling blade, and proceed.
The ruffler should never be operated without
cloth between the blades.
FIG. 30
RUFFLER
Five Stitch Ruffling or Plaiting
To make a five stitch ruffle or plait, raise the
adjusting lever (A, Fig. 31) to its highest
point. The ruffling blade will then move for-
FIG. 31
ward and back once every fifth stitch.
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82387 No. 66
RUFFLER WITH SHIRRING PLATE
Shirring
To attach the shirring plate (see Fig. 20) draw
to the left the slide that covers the bobbin
case, insert the downwardly projecting hooks
on the shirring plate under the edge of the
throat plate, push as far as possible to the
right and press the pin into the hole at the
right of the throat plate, then close the slide
covering the bobbin case.
FIG. 32
The lower or separator blade of the ruffler is
fastened by a screw. Loosen the screw, take
off the separator blade and attach the ruffler
to the presser bar as instructed.
Place the cloth between the ruffling blade and
the shirring plate, lower the ruffler on the
goods and operate as in ruffling.
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82387 No. 66
QUILTER
Remove the presser foot and attach the quilter foot in its place. The quilter guide can be
used on either the right or left side of the needle and the distance of the guide from the
needle determines the width of space
between the rows of stitching. Slide the wire
of the guide into the holder prepared for it on
the foot and set it to the width desired.
Let the quilter guide follow the edge of the
goods, a straight crease, or a chalk line, as
the case may be, for the first row of stitching.
All succeeding rows are made straight and at
a uniform distance by keeping the last row
steadily under the guide.
FIG. 33
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82387 No. 66
TUCKER
Remove the presser foot and attach the tucker in its place. The width of the tuck is determined by the scale of figures nearest the
needle, which shows in eighths and sixteenths of an inch the distance of the edge of
the fold from the line of stitching.
The crease or mark for the second and following tucks is determined by the scale nearest the operator and this is set by the line in
front of the needle hole in the presser foot.
For blind tucks without spaces set both
scales at the same figure; to make spaces
between the tucks move the front scale farther to the left until the desired space is
obtained.
Having adjusted the scales for tuck and
space as desired, fold the material and
crease by hand; pass the folded edge
between the spring and spur near you, then
between the two blades of the second scale,
and back under the presser foot; draw to the
right against the guide, lower the presser bar;
see that the lever for the needle clamp to
strike is in its backward position so as to form
a crease for the next tuck, then proceed with
the first tuck.
FIG. 34
For the second tuck fold carefully at the
crease made by the spur and place the edge
of the first tuck underneath and against the
spur at the left. The spur will serve as a guide
and will also make a distinct crease for the
next tuck. Always place the last tuck against
the spur to ensure perfect work.
When making the last tuck the lever upon
which the needle clamp strikes while tucking
should he raised to its highest point; while the
lever is in this position no crease for a succeeding tuck is made upon the goods.
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82387 No. 66
UNDER BRAIDER
Remove the presser foot and attach the quilter foot in its place. Attach the under braider
(see Fig. 20) as directed for the shirring plate
(see page 30). The design to be braided must
be stamped or traced on the wrong side of
the goods. Pass the end of the braid back
through the guides in the under braider and
under the quilter foot as shown above. Lower
the quilter foot and proceed to sew.
FIG. 35
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82387 No. 66
EMBROIDERY AND DARNING
While embroidery anti darning can be done
on the machine when threaded for regular
sewing, the use of feed cover plate (B. Fig.
36) No. 32622 is recommended, as movable
contact with the feed in some cases might
interfere with the handling of the work.
Do not change the adjustment of the feed
dog in any way as it is essential that its position should remain as originally fixed.
When the feed cover plate (B. Fig. 36) is
used it is necessary to lead the needle thread
through the eye in the thread regulator (A,
Fig. 36) at the left of the tension discs, and
not under the thread regulator. With this
exception the threading is the same as for
regular sewing (see Fig. 11).
into position, and close the slide (see Fig.
36).
Feed cover plates are not included in the reg-
ular sets of attachments; they are on sale at
all Singer shops at the price of ten cents
each.
Remove the presser foot and let down the
presser bar lifter to restore the tension on the
needle thread, which is released and inoperative when the lifter is raised.
To attach the feed cover plate draw to the left
the slide that covers the bobbin case and
insert the downwardly projecting hooks on the
cover plate under the edge of the throat plate
and push to the right. After bringing the hole
at the right of the cover plate in line with the
hole in the throat plate, press the cover
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82387 No. 66
RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD
(Class and Variety of Needles Used, 15 x 1)
SIZES
OF
NEEDLES
9
11
14
16
18
19
21
CLASSES
OF
WORK
Very thin Muslins, Cambrics,Linens,
etc.
Very fine Calicoes, Linens,Shirtings.
fine Silk Goods, etc.
Shirtings, Sheetings, Calicoes,
Muslins, Silk and general domestic
goods and all classes of general work.
All kinds of heavy Calicoes, light
Woolen Goods, heavy Silk, Seaming,
Stitching,. etc.
Tickings. Woolen Goods, Trousers,
Boys' Clothing,Corsets, Cloaks,
Mantles, etc.
Heavy Woolens, Tickings, Bags, Heavy
Coats, Trousers, etc. Heavy Clothing
generally.
SIZES of COTTON,
SILK OR
LINEN THREAD
100 to 150 Cotton 00 & 000 Silk
Twist
80 to 100 COTTON 0 Silk Twist
60 to 80 Cotton
A & B Silk Twist
40 to 60 Cotton C Silk Twist
30 to 40 Cotton D Silk Twist
24 to 30 Cotton E Silk Twist
60 to 80 Linen
40 to 60 Linen or very Coarse
Cotton
Bags, Coarse Cloths and Heavy
Goods.
Table of Contents Previous Page
29
When sending orders for needles
always specify size required.
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