Securitron EL-TSB-CL, EL-TSB-BK, TSB-CL-48, TSB-CLT, TSB-BKT Installation Instructions

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SECURITRON SERIES TSB TOUCH SENSE BAR

INSTALLATION AND OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. DESCRIPTION

Securitron's Model TSB is an exit device for doors secured by magnetic locks. The assembly consists of an
aluminum bar available in lengths to fit on standard U.S. door openings: (36", 42", and 48"),
Polycarbonate end pieces to mount the bar on the door, and an electronic touch sensor mounted within
the bar. Fasteners for metal doors are included. For through door mounting please call factory for a no­charge TSB-TDM kit. Note that US type or metric fasteners are supplied depending of the version of
the bar which has been ordered. The metric version part numbers include the suffix: “M”. When the bar
is touched, a relay in the sensor is tripped, releasin g the lock. The bar's sensitivity is adjustable. In the
unlikely event of sensor failure, a push sw itch is mounted on the back side of the bar. Depressing the
switch has the same effect as activating the sensor by touch and therefore represents built in safety
redundancy. The TSB cannot be used outside in rain conditions.

As the TSB is normally used to allow egress on an electrically secured door, make sure that you
are complying with applicable building codes for your area. Check with your local building
department and/or fire prevention department.

2. PHYSICAL INSTALLATION

2.1 MOUNTING HOLE MARKING

The first step is to plan and mark the mounting hole positions. Be sure that you have the correct length
bar for the door and begin by removing the screws that secure the end caps on both ends of the bar. If it
appears that the bar is longer than it should be for the door, see Section 2.6 for cutting instructions.
Note which end has the sensor (circuit board) in it. This is the end that should be mounted on the
hinge side for easiest wire exit from the door.

For mounting hole drilling, we supply a template located at the end of t his instruction manual, alth ough it
is generally preferable to hold the bar in position and use it as a “self-template.” The templates are
particularly valuable if door preparation is to be done in advance. In setting your mounting holes, there
are three concerns:

They must be level or the bar will be tilted.
They must be the correct distance apart.
They must be correctly placed “left/right” on the door.

Leveling is best done by use of a carpenter's leve l. If one is not available, measure from the mounting
hole positions on each edge of the door to the door bottom. This is not as effective as it assumes that the
door is level which is not always true. N ote that in general, US building codes require the height of the
bar above the door bottom to be between 30 and 44 inches.

If the bar is used as its own template, you w ill automatically get correct separation between the mounting
holes. If you use the templates, note that there is a line drawn on each template which must line up with
the outer edge of the plastic end pieces on the bar. After you've mounted the templates, hold up the bar
to make sure the end piece lines up to get the correct distance.
Left/right placement on the door is an important point. In most installations, the bar should be centered
on the door. This produces the most attractive result. However, if the door has a vertical door stop on
the edge that swings open, you may need to shift the bar somewhat towards the hinge side to avoid
scraping the stop when the door opens. You should always experi mentally posi tion the bar on t he
door and open the door to see that there is no interference. Finally, if the installation is on an
aluminum frame glass door, make sure you don't position the bar so that the mounting screws go into the
glass. On standard doors, keeping the mounting holes at least 3/4" (19 mm) from the inner edge of the
aluminum will be safe.

2.2 MOUNTING HOLE DRILLING

There are three different procedures depending on the door type. Hollow metal doors employ supplied
machine screws and “blind nut” fasteners. This method leaves the outside of the door unaffected. Longer
machine screws and sex bolts may be used on hollow or solid wood doors, solid metal doors , or chalk filled
fire doors, the TSB-TDM kit for this type of mounting can be ordered from the factory at no-charge. With
this method, the sex bolt heads do show from the outside of the door. Note that the Touch Sense Bar
may not be used on a fire rated door that requires a fire rated latch (the TSB has no latch), but
sometimes fire doors are used on openings where a fire rated barrier is not required, because the
customer has selected this door type for other reasons (such as solidity). The third method is to use wood
screws (not supplied) on a solid wood door. By “solid wood”, we mean hardwood interior rather than

© Copyright 2012, all rights reserved PN# 500-16410
Page 1 Rev. E, 02/12

pressed wood as the wood needs enough structural integrity to hold w ood screws. This method is strong
and simple and has the advantage of not showing sex bolts heads from the outside of the door.

For a hollow metal door, drill four 3/8" (9.5 mm) diameter holes only deep enough to get through the
inner side of the door- not completely through the door.

For through bolt mounting on various door types, drill four 1/4" (6 mm) holes completely throu gh the
door. For this type of installation (which may also be elected for a solid wood door) you will be using
screws and finishing sex bolts suitable for a 1 3/4" (44 mm) thick door supplied in the TSB-TDM kit.
Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If the doors you are working on are
different, you will have to purchase different len gth screws or apply some spacing techniques (described
later).

For a solid wood door, you may elect to mount the bar with wood screws (not furnished). We
recommend 2 3/4" (70 mm) #14 wood screws with a hex, pan, oval or round head. Drill four 3/16" (5
mm) diameter holes to a depth of 1 1/4" (30 mm).

2.3 WIREWAY HOLE DRILLING

The TSB connects to its power source and to the devices it controls via a six-conductor cable with push-on
connector (supplied). There are several different methods of getting this cable from the TSB to external
connection points. The first issue is whether the cable needs to enter the door (in which case a
wireway hole must be drilled in the door), or not. For most installations, it is preferred that the cable
enter the door. Exit from the door may be via the supplied door cord which may be mounted at the top of
the door where it is out of the way, or via any of many commercially available transfer hinges or pivots
(such as Securitron’s model EPT Electric Power Transfer or ELH Electric Hinge) which serve to route the
wiring off the door in a concealed manner. A wireway hole is th en drilled into the door in the position
shown on the template. It should be 3/8" (9.5 mm) in diameter. The cable is then pu lled into the door.

An alternate technique exists which does not route the cable into the door but which takes it directly
from the end piece to the frame via the door cord. This technique is preferred when the door type is
difficult to pull a wire through (such as any solid door). It is also a good technique when the frame is not
hollow as the door cord can route the cable directly from the end piece to a surface box mounted opposite
the end piece.

For the best security and appearance, you will not use the plastic door cord terminator when you route the
cord into the end piece. You will drill a hole in the plastic end piece. The hole should be dri lled through
the bottom flat of the end piece on the hinge side. The ideal hole size is 23/64" (9.1 mm) but as this drill
size is unusual, 3/8" (9.5 mm) also works. On the next page, a drawing appears to the right which shows
you hole location in the end piece. Note that this drawing shows the end piece you would select if the
hinge side of the door was on the left. If it's on the right, u se the other end piece but still locate the hole
at the inner, rear corner. With this method, the door cord is used to route the cable directly from the end
piece to the frame.

2.4 WIRE ROUTING
If you elect the method of wire routing which uses a hole in the end piece (see drawing below), you must

route your cable through the end piece prior to mounting the end piece to the door. This is

because the flat cable connector will not pass through the hole you h ave drilled in t he end piece. Begin by
threading the cable end without the connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the
slot is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the drilled hole in
the end piece. Begin by threading the cable end without the
connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the slot
is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the
drilled hole in the end piece so th at it exits the end piece. Next pass
the stainless door cord over the cable and slide it until you can push it
into the hole you have drilled in the end piece. Secure the stainless
cord inside the end piece with the supplied ”E” clamp. See Figure 1.
It shows this assembly for the end piece you would use for a door with
hinges to the left. If the hinges are on the right, use the opposite end
piece. The drawing will be “reversed” but the concept is unchanged.
Note that if you are mounting to a surface box, a second “E” clamp has
been supplied so that you can simply drill a hole in the box and secu re
the stainless cord from the inside with the second “E” clamp. If the
frame is hollow, you would employ the plastic door cord terminator

BOTTON VIEW OF
HINGE SIDE END
PIECE. DRILL 23/6
OR 3/8" HOLE AS
SHOWN, ABOUT
3/16" IN FROM
EACH EDGE.

when you mount the other end of the door cord to the frame. You are
now ready to mount the bar to the door.

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FIG. 1: REAR VIEW OF END PIECE SHOWING CABLE ROUTING THROUGH END PIECE

ELONGATED SLOT

RECOMMENDED TOOLS

MEDIUM, SMALL PHILLIPS DRIVERS

CABLE CONNECTOR
WHICH ATTACHES
TO CIRCUIT BOARD

DRILL MOTOR
1/4", 3/8, 1/8" DRILL BITS
WIRE CUTTER/STRIPPER
VOLT/OHM METER
CRIMP CONNECTORS AND PLIERS

6 CONDUCTOR
JACKETED CABLE

"E" CLAMP

STAINLESS DOOR CORD INSERTS

"E" CLAMP INSTALLED TO
SECURE STAINLESS CORD

INTO HOLE DRILLED IN BOTT OM
OF END PIECE. SECURES WITH
"E" CLAMP

If you are using the preferred method of pulling the cable through the door, the cable must be inserted
into the 3/8" wireway hole you have drilled in the door. Th e connector will be left protruding from this
hole. The connector will pass through the elongated slot in the end piece, so the cable should be pulled
first and then the bar may be mounted. If you are using the door cord rather than a transfer hinge or
pivot to bring the cable from the door into the frame, remember that you must pass the cable through the
cord before fishing it into the frame.

Note that if, for any special reason, y ou find it desirable to pull the cable through the bar, this must not
be done. The cable must always exit the bar at the end piece which includes the circuit board.
If it goes through the bar, it creates electronic interference w ith the touch sensing function which voids
the performance of the bar.

2.5 BAR MOUNTING

The holes you have drilled for bar mounting (Section 2.2) were different depending on the type of door.
Similarly the final mounting procedure depends on the door type.

In the case of a hollow metal door, identify the four supplied blind nuts. The nuts are used as follows.
Insert the nuts with the knurl engaging the edge of each hole. Then utilize the supplied col lapsing tool to
collapse the nuts. Use of the tool is shown in Figure 2. Next, use the shorter (2 1/4" or 54 mm)) supplied
machine screws. Place a tooth washer under the head of each screw and mount the bar. Do not over

torque.

FIG. 2: COLLAPSING THE BLIND NUTS (METAL DOOR)

WHILE TURNING WITH ALLE N
WRENCH, PRESS IN TO KEEP

NUT SEATED IN DOOR

CAP SCREW

FLAT WASHER

HOLD WITH WRENCH OR
VISE GRIP WHILE TURNING

CAP SCREW

DRILL 3/8" (9.5MM) HOLE
PRESS IN BLIND
NUT AS SHOWN

TOOL

KNURL

DOOR

BLIND NUT

COLLAPSES WHEN CAP SCREW
TURNED WITH A LLEN WRENCH
WHILE TOOL HELD FAST
WITH BOX WRENCH

For through bolt + sex bolt mounting, you will be using longer 3 1/2" (90 mm) machine screws with
the sex bolts supplied in the TSB-TDM kit. You should have already drilled 1/4" (6 mm) holes th rough the
door. The next step is to install the sex bolts. From the outside of the door, enlarge the holes to 3/8"
(9.5 mm) diameter, 1" (25 mm) deep. Push in the sex bolts. Then place a tooth washer under the head
of each screw and mount the bar. Note that the screw length is suitable for a 1 3/4" (44 mm) thick door.
Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If you have a door of different thickness,
a number of techniques can be applied. Screws of different lengths can be purchased or the supplied
screws may be cut (if the door is thinner). Since the sex bolts are short, however, some final adjustments
may be necessary. Spacing washers may be added under the screw heads but if you raise the heads too
high they will interfere with removal of the circuit board (if this ever becomes necessary). The board can
still be removed but the mounting screws will have to come out first and this is inconvenient. Another

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