Quick Fuel Technology 4500 Alcohol Conversion Kit User Manual

Loading...

Installation Instructions Model 4500 Alcohol Conversion Kit

Thank you for purchasing QFT’s alcohol conversion kit. This conversion is not particularly difficult however. there are a few precautions and special instructions you should follow to be certain the conversion goes smoothly.

1.Completely disassemble the major components; i.e. fuel bowls and metering blocks.

2.With the bowls and blocks removed, remove the locator pins that hold in the booster venturi. The

Remove booster pin with dent puller (sheet metal screw)

easiest way to accomplish this is to use a sheet metal screw and a dent remover as shown here.

3.With the booster venturi removed you can now install the new booster assemblies. This is a critical step and essential that the fit and location of the booster venturi is correct. The casting that holds the annular insert has a raised line on each side of the locator tab. This is to ensure a tight fit in the main body casting.

4.Trial fit the booster in the main body to ensure it can be placed deep enough to align with the booster pin hole in the main body. Look through the booster pin hole on the metering block surface of the main body, trial fit each booster assembly to check alignment of the booster pin holes. If the holes do not align it will be necessary to remove material from the raised casting line to achieve a tight fit, however to enable proper alignment. Material can be removed using a hand file.

5.Once boosters are properly aligned, place a drop of two of Red Loctite® on the booster pin provided. Insert the booster pin through the main body and into the booster. Lightly tap initially in place with a small hammer, using a punch with the same OD as the booster pin. Check your progress frequently to be certain the alignment is maintained. NOTE: When the last step of the booster pin enters the main body boss the resistance to drive in the pin will become greater. Check the alignment one additional time then finish driving the booster pin until the pin is flush with the relief cut in the main body.

Check alignment before installing brass pin

Align brass pin with hole in booster, coat with Loctite®, tap lightly, check alignment drive until flush with casting recess.

6.Remove all of the air bleeds from the top section of the main body. Each throttle bore has three threaded bleed bosses. Working from the outside, in the boss furthest away from the center of the

carburetor install the BLANK bleed. In the boss right next to it, moving toward the center, install the air bleed marked with the number 40. In the boss next to the accelerator pump discharge nozzle insert the air bleed marked with the number 25. Repeat this same sequence in the remaining throttle bores.

Insert #25 bleed here, this is the high speed bleed.

Install blank air bleed here

Install #40 here this is the idle air bleed.

7.Remove the two pump discharge nozzles (squirters) and stainless screws. In the small parts bag find the two thick composite gaskets, two thin paper gaskets. Place the composite gasket on the accelerator pump nozzle hole in the main body, slip the paper gasket over the nozzle screw, then the nozzle (squirter) and install as a unit on top of the composite gasket, center on the locator tab and tighten with an 5/32” Allen wrench. The main body portion is now complete

8.Place the fuel bowl so the opening is facing down on your workbench. With a small punch drive the roll pin that retains the operating arm out of the accelerator pump housing. Install the bent pump arm supplied with the angled section facing away or pointing down. Tap in the original roll pin with a small punch until the roll pin is just about flush with the housing. Repeat the process on the second bowl.

Reinstall roll pin with new pump arm as shown.

Remove roll pin with small punch

9.While the fuel bowl is still facing down on the workbench remove the old needle and seat assembly.

Hold the adjustment nut with a 5/8” wrench, with a large blade screwdriver loosen the lock screw while holding the nut. Remove the needle and seat assembly. Set this assembly aside temporarily.

10.Turn the fuel bowl over. With a medium common tip screwdriver, remove the two screws holding in the float assembly. Remove the entire assembly. Do both fuel bowls at the same time.

11.Lay both floats down on the workbench the same way it came out of the float bowl, with the hinge on top. Remove the float hinge by pulling it through both the float bracket, float hinge and spring.

12.Reassemble using the new float. Place the float on the workbench in the same orientation as the bowl, place the hinge on top of the float, and align the holes. Place the small end of the spring in the float hinge locator hole. Slide the float hinge through the bracket and hinge holes as well as the float spring. Once all the way through the assembly take the long end of the spring and position it in the cutout in the float hinge. Use the other float assembly as a guide if needed. Repeat, using the first assembly as a reference if needed.

13.Install the float assembly into each bowl. Insert the original screws and tighten. Note; these are selftapping screws so do not over-tighten.

14.Remove the adjusting nut and lock screw from the needle and seat assemblies. Locate the appropriate gaskets in the small parts bag. Thread in the new needle and seat assembly into the fuel bow. When the resistance makes it difficult, turn the fuel bowl upside down, place the large gasket on top of the adjusting nut, slip the gasket and nut over the notch in the needle and seat assembly. Turn the nut clockwise until the straight edge of the float is even with the center of the float bracket retainer screws.

With the float bowl still inverted, use a 3/8” drill bit, adjust the needle and seat until the drill just fits

+ 2 hidden pages