SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODELS
385. 11602090
385. 12708090
385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385.12714090
TABLE OF CONTENTS
I. LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS .................................
2. WIND THE BOBBIN ...............................................
3. PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD .......................................
,
STITCH SELECTOR/STITCH LENGTH CONTROLS ........................ 4-I & 4-2
5.
REMOVING COVERS AND ENCLOSURES ................................ 5-I & 5-2
o
TOP TENSION ...............................................
BOBBIN TENSION ............................................
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT ..........................
ZIG-ZAG SYNCHRONIZATION ...................................
STITCH WIDTH ADJUSTMENT ...................................
STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ....................................
FEED DOG HEIGHT ...........................................
NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE ...............................
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ......................... ................
NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE ..................................
ZERO FEEDING ............................
AUTOMATIC MECHANISM .......................................
DISENGAGEMENT OF FOLLOWER .................................
MOTOR BELT TENSION ........................................
WIRING .......................................... _ .........
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
8.
o
OILING ........................................................ 21
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ...................................... 22-I & 22-2
• SEWINGMACHINE
SOURCE385
PAGEI
DIV. 20
MODEL 385. 11602090
385. 12708090
385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Take-up lever
Bobbin winding tension disc
Top thread tension control
Face Cover plate•
Thread cutter
Needle plate
\
Upper thread guide
Thread spool pin
(Model 11602 - I pc.)
Bobbin winding spindle
Stitch lenEth control
Reverse stitch control
Stitch selector
Control panel unit
Arm cover plate
•Hand wheel
Auto clutch knob •
Light and
power switch
Plug connector
S'huttlecover
Extension table
(Accessorystorage6ox)
Carrying handle
Presser foot
Presser foot lever
clamp unit
Free arm
Belt cover Nomenclature plate
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 11602090
SOURCE 385 385. 12708090
PAGE 2 385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
WIND THE BOBBIN
I. RELEASE CLUTCH BY TURNING THE CLUTCH KNOB (C) INSIDE THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU.
2. DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A).
3. PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH HOLE IN BOBBIN AS SHOWN.
PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP
OF THE BOBBIN.
PUSH BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS.
4. HOLDING THE END OF THREAD, START MACHINE. WHEN BOBBIN IS SLIGHTLY FILLED, SNIP OFF.
5. WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS. REMOVE BOBBIN. CLIP THREAD.
TURN CLUTCH KNOB AWAY FROM YOU WHILE HOLDING HAND WHEEL.
• .. B
r.
O Place bobbin {n bobbin case
making sure lhread fe_ds clock-
w;se and }s coming from
bobbin as shown.
\
.D
(_) Pull thread _hrough slot of ca_e
as shown.
(_ Pull thread under tens=on
spr;ng and through the opening
as shown above.
_')Holding latch open. posluon " (_) Case should lock {n:o place
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 11602090
SOURCE 385 385. 12708090
PAGE 3 385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UF LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE SPOOL ON THE SPOOL PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL.
I. DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.
2. HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND, DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN
ARROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO LEFT.
4. DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE.
5- THREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
I i
SEWING MACHINE
SOURCE 385
PAGE 5
FACE COVER PLATE
DIV. 20
MODEL 385. 11602090
385. 12708090
385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
REMOVING COVERS AN ENCLOSURES
THIKEAD GUIDE COVER
I. REMOVE THE SCREW (A).
2. TAKE THE FACE COVER PLATE OFF.
THREAD GUIDE COVER
I. REMOVE THE SCREW (B).
2. TAKE THE THREAD GUIDE COVER OFF.
FACE COVER PLATE
A
B
BELT COVER
I. REMOVE THE SCREWS (C) AND (D).
2. TAKE THE BELT COVER OFF.
SCREW SIZE TYPE
A 4x6
B 4x12
C 4x20
D 4x12B
+-Pan head
+-Binding head
+-Binding head
+ Pan head self
tapping
BELT COVER
C
I
SEWINGMACHINE
DIV. 20
SOURCE385
PAGE5-I
REMOVING COVERS AN ENCLOSURES
ARM COVER PLATE
I. REMOVE THE SCREW (H).
2. TAKE THE ARM COVER PLATE OFF.
CONTROL PANEL UNIT
MODEL385. 11602090
385. 12708090
385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
I. LOOSEN SCREW (K) INSIDE
MACHINE.
2,
3.
REMOVE SCREW (G) AND (I).
LOOSEN SCREW (E) (F) (J)
(L)(N)(O).
44
LOOSEN SCREW (M) INSIDE
MACHINE.
1
CAREFULLY EASE CONTROL
PANEL OFF. NO FORCE
WILL BE NECESSARY.
F
• 0
SCREW SIZE TYPE
H 4x20 +-Bindin_ head
I 4x12B + Pan head self
capping
G 4x8 +-Binding head
SEWING MACHINE
DIV. 20
SOURCE 385
PAGE 6
USE SOFT COTTON THREAD #50
MODEL 385. 11602090
385. 12708090
385. 12710090
385. 12712090
385. 12714090
TOP TENSION
CHECK:
ADJUSTMENT: I. REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL UNIT.
I. SET THE TOP THREAD TENSION CONTROL AT 3 AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT.
2. PASS THE THREAD (A) BETWEEN TENSION DISCS AND DRAW THE THREAD (A)
DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.
4. TOP TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95G WHEN PULLING THE THREAD (A) IN THE
DIRECTION OF "B".
2. TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF "D" WHEN THE TOP
TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF "E" WHEN THE TOP
TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.
3. RECHECK THE TOP TENSION AND READJUST IF NECESSARY.
C
D
SEWING MACHINE
SOURCE 385
PAGE 7
USE SOFT COTTON THREAD #50
DIV. 20
BOBBIN TENSION
MODEL385.
385.
385.
385.
385.
11602090
127O8O9O
12710090
12712O9O
12714O9O
CHECK:
ADJUSTMENT:
I. PUT THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (A).
2. BOBBIN TENSION SHOULD HE 45 - 55G WHEN PULLING THE THREAD (A)
IN THE DIRECTION OF "B".
I. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF "D" WHEN THE BOBBIN
TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
2. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF "E" WHEN THE BOBBIN
TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.
t
B
E
A
D