Kenmore 1625 User Manual

Kenmore

INSTRUCTIONS

ZIG • ZAG SEWING MACHINE

MODEL 1430/1431/1625/1641/1940/1941

59982

TABLE OF CONTENTS ..............................................

,

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Identifying Parts ................................................. 2, 3

Installing Machine ............................................... 4, 5

Converting to Free-arm Sewing ................................ 6

Winding the Bobbin ............................................... 7

Threading the Bobbin Case...................................... 8

Threading of Top Thread ........................................ 9

USING THE CONTROLS

Adjusting Top Tension ........................................... 10

Adjusting Bobbin Tension ....................................... 11

Checking Tensions ................................................ 12

Stitch Width Control .............................................. 13

Stitch Length Control ............................................. 13

Reverse Stitch Control ........................................... 14

Special Stitch Modifier ........................................... 14

Buttonhole Control ................................................ 14

Special Stitch Dial ............................................ 15, 16

Pressure Regulator ................................................ 17

Feed Dog Control .................................................. 18

Sewing Light ....................................................... 18

Needle Plates .................................................. 19, 20

Seam Guides .................................................. 19, 20

ACCESSORIES

Needles .............................................................. 21

Needle, Thread, and Fabric Chart .............................. 22

Presser Feet ........................................................ 23

Buttonhole Attachment .......................................... 24

=

STARTING TO SEW .............................................. 25

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES

Straight Stitching ............................................ 26, 27

Zigzag Stitching ................................................... 27

Stretch Stitching ............................................. 28 - 30

SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES

Buttonhole Making .......................................... 31 - 34

Blind Hemming ..................................................... 35

Satin Stitching, Appliqueing .................................... 36

Zipper Application ................................................. 37

Mending ........................................... -.................. 38

Darning ...................... -........................................ 38

Button Sewing ..................................................... 39

Bar Tacking ............................... ....: ..................... 39

FREE-ARM SEWING ............................................. 40

1

CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ............. 41, 42

4.

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ............................... 43

Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ................................... 44

Oiling Underside .............................................. 45, 46

Oiling in Face Cover Plate ........................................ 46

Parts List ....................................................... 47, 48

_1. _KNOWING YOUR MACHINE _

FRONT VIEW

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(Flat-bed type)

2

!625, !
1641,
19412

only)

BACK VIEW

(Model 1430, 1940)

(-_odel 19412 only)

(Flat-bed type)

3

INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-armtype)

1. To install the machine in cabinet, position
machine head on cabinet platform so that

holes on bottom of machine match those

on boards. Insert washers and screws

and tighten into place. (Fig. 1)

2. A separate base and cover is available to
carry the machine when needed. The

base must be removed when machine is
used.

To install machine in carrying case, set
machine into base, with word FRONT in

base facing you. (Fig. 2)
Place cover on machine with word

4

"SEARS" on handlefacing you, Thecase
slopes in the same direction of the ma-

chine. (Fig. 3)

,

Push the speed control plug onto three-
prong connector, Plug machine cord

into any !10.!20 volt wall outlet. Turn
on power by pushing light and powe_
switch. (Fig. 4)

,

Spool pins are packed in accessorybox.
Screw thread spool pins in placesecurely

with a screw driver, Positionnylon discs
as shown.in illustration.

INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type)

1. Loosen the two hinge screws under

holes in the rear edge of the machine

bed.

2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet or
case. Slip machine head onto pins.

3. Tighten hinge screws securely.

4, Push the speed control plug onto

three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Lower machine head to

front cabinet flap,

g

Plug machine cord into any 110-120
volt wall outlet. Turn on power by

pushing light and power switch.

6,

Spool pins are packed in accessory
box. Screw thread spool pins in
place securely with a screw driver.
Position nylon discs as shown in

illustration.

5

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

° Remove the base from the machine

by pushing the release button (if

applicable) and pulling the base to
the left. (Fig. 1, 2)

6

2. To replace the base, simply slide it
along the free arm to its original
position. (Fig. 1)

Note: Base cannot be removed or

replaced unless shuttle cover is
closed.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

,

Release clutch by pulling hand wheel
or turning clutch knob toward you as

shown in Fig. 1.

,

Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winder tension disc asshown.

3.

Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown.

Place bobbin onto bobbin winder

4.
shaft with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push

bobbin winder latch against bobbin
until it clicks, Holding onto end of

thread, start machine. When bobbin
is slightly filled, snip off end of

thread.

5.

Start machine. Wind thread until
bobbin winder latch releases.

6.

Push in hand wheel or tighten clutch
knob to return to stitching position,

Remove bobbin,

7

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

1. Remove base front cover by push-
ing the release button on the left
side. Open the shuttle cover.

2. Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward

you.

3. To remove bobbin case from shut-
tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.

4. Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.

5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak-
ing sure thread is coming from

bobbin as shown.

6. Pull thread through slot of case as
shown.

7. Pull thread under tension spring.

8, Holding latch open, position case

into shuttle, and release latch. Case
should lock into place when latch

is released.

THREADING OF TOP THREAD

Place thread on spool pin as shown

with thread coming from the back of
the spool. Draw thread through the

top thread guide. Holding the spool

stationary with right hand, pull the
end of the thread between the tension

discs as shown. Pull the spring wire

loop up and past the top hook until

the thread can be slipped into hook

(See Fig. 2).

When the thread is released, the spring
wire loop will return to position (Fig.

3) with thread in proper place. Release

spool of thread and hook thread into
take up lever as shown (Fig. 4).
Continue to thread machine exactly

as shown. Needle must always be

threaded in direction as shown in

Fig. 5.

Hold needle thread loosely in left
hand and rotate hand wheel toward

you one complete turn, Bring bobbin
thread up by pulling upper thread.

9

ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your
top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The

pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the number, the
tighter the tension.

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one
fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends upon the

stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being
sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.

it isbest to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to
make a garment as shown below. Use the straight stitch function.

Upper thread too tight

0

0 Upper thread too loose

Decrease Tension

Increase Tension

ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS

Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread

tension.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to
loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance

them as indicated on Page 10.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with
a screwdriver.

DECREASE TENSION

_. Turn Counter Clockwise.

INCREASE TENSION

Turn Clockwise.

11

CHECKING TENSIONS

The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zig zag stitch on the
fabric you will be using. Use the appropriate type of thread and needle.

Use different colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool.

Sew a line of zig zag stitches The bobbin thread should not snow on the

top of the fabric.

Adjust the top tension if necessary to achieve the stitch balance mentioned

above

UNBALANCED BALANCED

1'3

TOP VIEW

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

This control regulates the width of the
stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE

NUMBER*THE WIDER THE STITCH.
You may vary your zigzag stitch width
by adjusting this control to the setting

you desire.

This control must be on Red Dot in
order to do straight stitching. Turn only

the outer rim of this control to set the
stitch width. The center of the control

dials the special stitches the machine is
capable of sewing.

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates the
length of the stitch you select. THE

HIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTER

THE STITCH.
The number on stitch length control

indicates the approximate number of
stitches per inch. The stitch setting you
use will be determined by the thickness
of the fabric you are sewing.

A IQnger_stiich setting should be used
for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.

The middle range of the control is the

10-12 stitchper inch range which is the
most commonly used.

A basting stitch is made by using the
longest possible stitch setting -6 stitches

per inch. The red marking ,=,= on the
control is the setting used for the

shortest stitches such as in Satin
Stitching.

13

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL':

Itis best to begin and end seams with a

few stitches taken in reverse, This is

called back tacking. Back tacking

fastens the ends of the seams firmly and

preventsrave!ing. _ : • _ :_:

When reverse stitching is needed, turn
the control clockwise and: hold_ there

dur!ng sewing, The fabric w!ll..imme-

diately sta[t feeding backwards and

seam will be fastened .....

SPECIAL STITCH MODIFIER

This control gives you the means of

varying the stitches on the Special
Stitch Dial, When the pointer: is turned

to the Red Dot, the machine sews
forward only, When the pointer is

turned to the White Dot, the forward
designs are varied by the machine

sewing in a forward and reverse
manner. Carefully read directions given

in the next section of the book in order
to accomplish the various stitches

correctly.

BUTTONHOLE CONTROL

(Model 1625 only)
This control is used in making button-

holes. Detailed instructions are given in
the next section of the book.