Page 1
Kenmore
INSTRUCTIONS
ZIG-ZAG SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 1357/1525/1660/1947
60278
Page 2
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Page 3
1. KNOWING YOMB MACHIA
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FRONT VIEW
1.
Shuttle cover
2.
Base front cover
3.
Base
4.
Zigzag stitch needle plate
5.
Front cover release button
6.
Presser foot
7.
Thread guide
8.
Needle clamp screw
9.
Thread guide
10.
Top thread tension control 20. Feed dog control
11.
Face cover thread guide 21. Free arm
12. Face cover plate
13. Take-up lever
14.
Upper thread guide
Special stitch dial
15.
16.
Stitch width control
17.
Special stitch modifier and
buttonhole control
Reverse stitch lever
18.
19.
Stitch length control
22. Support leg
Page 4
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23. Electric cord receptacle
24. Nomenclature plate
25. Light and power switch
26. Clutch knob
27. Hand wheel
28. Bobbin winder
29. Spool pins
30. Bobbin winder tension disc
31. Pressure regulator
(Model 1660)
{Flat-bed type)
32. Presser foot lever
33. Thread cutter
34. Presser foot thumb screw
35. Feed dogs
36. Base release button
37. Needle plate
38. Guide pin hole
39. Hand hole cover plate
Page 5
INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-arm type)
fjg-1
Fig. 2
1. To install the machine in cabinet, position
machine head on cabinet platform so that
holes on bottom of machine match those
on board. Insert washers and screws and
tighten into place. (Fig. 1)
2. A separate base and cover is available to
carry the machine when needed. The
base must be removed when machine is
used.
To install machine in carrying case, set
machine into base, with word FRONT in
base facing you. (Fig. 2)
Place cover on machine with word
"SEARS" on handle facing you. The case
slopes in the same direction of the ma
chine. (Fig. 3)
3. Push the speed control plug onto threeprong connector. Plug machine cord into
any 110-120 volt wall outlet. Turn on
power by pushing light and power switch.
(Fig. 4)
4. Spool pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw thread spool pins in place securely
with a screw driver. Position nylon discs
as shown in illustration.
Page 6
INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type)
0
mm
(D
0
I#*
(D
0
1.
Loosen the two hinge screws under
holes in the rear edge of the machine
bed.
2.
Raise hinge pins in the cabinet or
case. Slip machine head onto pins.
3, Tighten hinge screws securely.
4. Push the speed control plug onto
three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Lower machine head to
front cabinet flap.
5. Plug machine cord into any 110-120
volt wall outlet. Turn on power by
pushing light and power switch.
6. Spool pins are packed in accessory
box. Screw thread spool pins in
place securely with a screw driver.
Position nylon discs as shown in
illustration.
Page 7
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING
Fig. 1
Remove the base from the machine
by pushing the release button (if
applicable) and pulling the base to
the left, (Fig. 1, 2)
Fig. 2
2, To replace the base, simply slide it
along the free arm to its original
position. (Fig. 1)
Note: Base cannot be removed or
replaced unless shuttle cover is
closed.
Page 8
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
0
0
1. Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you.
2. Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winder tension disc as
shown.
3. Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown.
4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder
shaft with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
'i,
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iii!
bobbin winder latch against bobbin
until it clicks. Holding onto end of
thread, start nhachine. When bobbin
is slightly filled, snip off end of
thread.
5. Start machine. Wind thread until
bobbin winder latch releases.
6. Tighten clutch knob and remove
bobbin.
V "-r i
I
Page 9
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
■ - ■ ..........
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(D
d)
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1. Remove base front cover by push
ing the release button on the left
side. Open the shuttle cover.
2. Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward
you.
3. To remove bobbin case from shut
tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.
4. Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle,
*
5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak
ing sure thread is coming from
bobbin as shown.
6. Pull thread through slot of case as
shown.
7. Pull thread under tension spring.
8. Holding latch open, position case
into shuttle, and release latch. Case
should lock into place when latch
is released.
8
Page 10
THREADING OF TOP THREAD
Place thread on spool pin as shown
with thread coming from the back of
the spool. Draw thread through the
top thread guide. Holding the spool
stationary with right hand, pull the end
of the thread between the tension discs
as shown. Pull the spring wire loop up
and past the top hook until the thread
can be slipped into the hook (See Fig.
2). When the thread is released, the
spring wire loop will return to position
(See Fig. 3) with thread in proper place.
Release spool of thread and continue to
thread machine exactly as shown.
Needle must always be threaded in
direction as shown in Fig. 4.
Hold needle thread loosely in left hand
and rotate hand wheel toward you one
complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up
by pulling upper thread. (Fig, 5),
Page 11
STRAIGHT STITCHING
ADJUSTING TOP THREAD TENSION
Under
side
Top stitch
too tight
X .
D«cr«s«« IncrMM
tension tension
ZIGZAG STITCHING
Well balanced
Top Stitch
too loose
STRAIGHT STITCHING
The good looking appearance of your
stitching Is largely determined by the
balanced tension of both top and bobbin
threads. The tension is well balanced
when these two threads 'lock' In the
middle of layers of fabric you are
sewing.
If, when you start to sew, you find that
the stitching is Irregular, you will need to
adjust the tensron control.
Make any adjustments vyith presser foot
'down'.
1. If the threads are locking on the top
surface with the top thread lying flat,
the top stitch is too tight. Tension
can oe decreased by turning the
tension control to lower numbers.
2. If the reverse is happening with the
threads on the underside of the
fabric, (fie tension is too loose. This
can be corrected by turning the
tension control to higher numbers.
Fabric
puckers
ZIGZAG STITCHING
The top thread may appear on the
bottom depending on the thread, fabric,
type of stitch and sewing speed, but the
bobbin thread must never appear on the
top of the fabric.
ADJUSTING BOBBIN
THREAD TENSION
BOBBIN THREAD TENSION REQUIRES
ADJUSTMENT LESS FREQUENTLY
THAN THE TOP THREAD TENSION.
If the tension is well balanced, but the
fabric puckers badly, both top and
bobbin thread tensions may be too tight
and have to be adjusted.
When adjusting the tension on the
bobbin case, make only slight adjust
ments with a srewdriver.
Page 12
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control regulates the width of the
stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE
NUMBER-THE WIDER THE STITCH.
You may vary your zigzag stitch width
by adjusting this control to the setting
you desire.
This control must be on Red Dot in
order to do straight stitching. Turn only
the outer rim of this control to set the
stitch width. The center of the control
dials the special stitches the machine is
capable of sewing.
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control regulates the
length of the stitch you select. THE
HIGHER THE NUMBER-THESHORTER
THE STITCH.
The number on stitch length control
indicates the approximate number of
stitches per inch. The stitch setting you
use will be determined by the thickness
of the fabric you are sewing.
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p
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00
A longer stitch setting should be used
for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.
The middle range of the control is the
10-12 stitch per inch range which is the
most commonly used.
A basting stitch is made by using the
longest possible stitch setting-6 stitches
per inch. The red marking on the
control is the setting used for the
shortest stitches such as in Satin
Stitching.
d)
11
Page 13
y ■•'#
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL
It Is best to begin and end seams with a
few stitches taken In reverse. This is
called back tacking. Back tacking
fastens the ends of the seams firmly and
prevents raveling.
When reverse stitching is needed, turn
the control clockwise and hold there
during sewing. The fabric will imme
diately start feeding backwards and
seam will be fastened.
SPECIAL STITCH MODIFI
ER AND BUTTONHOLE
CONTROL
This control gives you the means of
varying the stitches on the Special
Stitch Dial. When the pointer is turned
to the Red Dot, the machine sews
forward only. When the pointer is
turned to the White Dot, the forward
designs are varied by the machine
sewing in a forward and reverse manner.
Carefully read directions given in the
next section of the book in order to
accomplish the various stitches
correctly.
12
This control is also used in making
buttonholes (Model 1525 only). Detailed
instructions are given in the next section
s
f
of the book.
Page 14
SPECIAL STITCH DIAL
There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your honrte
sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the
task at hand. '
All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Stitch
Modifier set at the Red Dot. -
To make the stitches printed in black on this dial, the Special Stitch Modifier
must be set at the White Dot.
THE RED DOT SETTING
The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching. At this
setting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch and make a simple zig zag stitch.
As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your other controls, carefully
read the directions in the next section of the book for the various stitches.
BLIND STITCH AND OVERLOOK STRETCH STITCH <|S
Blind hems are made by using the setting illustratedc with the Stitch Modifier set
on the Red Dot. When the Modifier is set on the White Dot, overcast stretch
stitching is made.
SPECIAL BOX STITCH AND ELASTIC STRETCH
The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing and special stretch stitch
for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require
stretch. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches.
13
Page 15
SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH :i:8i
You will iind that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this
reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. It is
accomplished with the illustrated setting and the Modifier set at the Red Dot
When the Modifier is turned to the White Dot a Smocking Stitch results. For
directions see the next section of this book.
SERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCH
Serging or pine leaf stretch is used for seam finishing on all types of fabrics. It is
a stitch used in the garment industry. It forms a good looking seam, stitching
and overcasting the edges. This stitch is useful for seaming of swimwear, stretch
ski pants and other types of knit sportswear. Modifier must be set on the White
Dot. ■
If Modifier is set on the red dot, a Shell Stitch can be made on nylon tricot.
BUTTONHOLE SETTING
The three settings illustrated are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole.
Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book.
14
Page 16
t -«I ^ ^ ^ «sysi^x-
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING
In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small
regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.
PRESSURE REGULATOR
" 'Is i
Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the
pressure on the presser foot. (See above).
To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is
obtained.
Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,
or difficulty In guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear
on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase
pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.
15
Page 17
(Flat-bad type) Fig. t
FEED DOG CONTROL
There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric
yourself. Remove the base cover from
the base. Pull down the feed dog control
or turn to the left as shown in Fig. 1.
The feed dogs will drop. You may then
determine the movement of the fabric
yourself.
For most of your stitching, the feed dog
control should be in the up position.
Whenever you raise or lower the feed
dogs, be sure to have the presser foot In
the up position.
SEWING LIGHT
The light and power switch shown in
Fig. 1 and 2 provides the electric current
for the motor as well as for the light.
In order to operate the machine, this
switch must be on. To turn on the light,
depress the upper side of the switch.
If you are interrupted while sewing and
must leave the machine unattended,
just turn off the switch and the machine
cannot be started accidentally.
16
Fig. 2
The sewing light is located inside the
face cover plate as shown. To replace
the bulb, turn light off, and swing the
face cover plate open. Push up on the
bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.
Remove bulb from socket. Push in new
bulb and turn counter-clockwise.
Fig. 3
Page 18
iSSU
NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS
(Free-armtype)
You are provided with two needle
plate inserts:
A. Needle plate with wide oval hole
for all zigzag stitching.
B. Needle plate with round hole
for regular straight stitching and
straight stretch stitch sewing.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS
1. Raise needle to its highest position
and raise presser foot. '
2. Swing shuttle cover open.
3. Push a spring under the plate as
shown to release the needle plate
insert.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
4. Remove needle plate insert by
placing thumb under edge of plate.
5. Replace the needle plate insert
positioning as shown in Fig. 3.
6. Push needle plate insert down to
lock into place. Reposition the
shuttle cover.
SEAM GUIDES
Seam guides are printed on either side
of the needle plate to aid you in guid
ing your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE
EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT
SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS
THE "ALL IMPORTANT” 5/8” SEAM
LINE.
The cornering guides are convenient
when turning a square corner 5/8"
from the fabric edge. See next
section of this book for directions.
Fig. 3
Cornering Guide
^ I
Page 19
ACCESSORIES
NEEDLES
Use KENMORE needles. The size of the
needle should conform with the size of
the thread and both should be suitable
to the fabric (See next page).
Never use a bent needle or one with a
blunt point.
Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of
your needle. Be sure you never use one
in your n^chine that is not this exact
length.
You will find among your accessories a
"Q NEEDLE".« ¡with blue shank. This
spiecial needle is to be used when
sewing certain knits and certain difficult
synthetic fabrics. If you experience
skipped stitches in any of your sewing,
use
Fiat
side
; you
PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position
by turning the hand wheel toward you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Hold
ing the needle with the flat side away
from you, slip the needle into the needle
%
V
bar. When it is in as far as it will go,
tighten the needle clamp screw with a
screwdriver.
If you have a double needle for decora
tive stitching, it is Inserted In the same
manner as the single needle.
18
Page 20
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART
Potyester Core/CottonWrap
SiikA>>
rolvMfSf SvihS
, Sllfe
. . r r::'u.
Bpm
i v4lK
Haav^ Duty Mercerized Ccitbn
Pplycietef Synthetic
silk Bii^onhoia T
NEEDLE
SIZE
dor 11
14
14 or 16
...
18
16,18 or
"OWfeCDLE".
FABRIC
Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity,
Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,
'Finé Lace, Organza, Crepe,
Taffettà, Voile, Organdy
Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton
Blends, Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,
Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,
Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy,
Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool
Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight: Coatings,
Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Hesvy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative Top-stitching on all
QSKT"..
(“O NEEDLE"..
and
, / ' * *i / I
“Q FOOT"., y
BUTTONHOLE GUIDE
(Model 1525,1947)
You have been provided with a
buttonhole guide to aid you in making
buttonholes. By using this guide, you
will accurately make identical size
buttonholes every time.
The guide just slips onto the regular
zigzag foot as illustrated.
Details in using this attachment are
given in the next section. Follow
those directions carefully for perfectly
formed buttonholes.
Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics :
Polyester Double Knits, Nylon
Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,
Spandex, Ciré Tricot
19
Page 21
BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT
You will find the following parts in your
Buttonhole Attachment Box:
1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in the
center.
2. Buttonhole adapter to be used
Instead of base cover when button
hole attachment is used.
(Model 1660 only) .
3. Guide Plate with Guide Pin that fits
in guide pin hole on the machine bed
just behind the needle plate, and
, with Template Holder.
4. A set of 5 templates is furnished
with each attachment. Each template
is marked showing the type and
length of each buttonhole.
20
5. Desired size of buttonhole is select
ed by turning template advance
knob. Length of buttonhole appears
in window on top side of guide plate.
Details in using this attachment are
given, Jn the next section. Follow
those directions carefully for perfectly
formed buttonholes.
Page 22
PRESSER FEET
To change the various presser feet,
raise the presser bar to Its highest
position by lifting the presser foot
lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot, insert
from the from.
Tighten the screw using the large
screw driver to make certain the foot
is secure.
To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics under the presser foot, the lever
can raise the foot beyond the normal
”up'* position. This is also an aid In
changing your presser feet.
B
You have been given a variety of presser feet:
A. Zigzag Foot
B. Straight Stitch Foot
C. Satin Stitch Foot
D. Zipper Foot
21
Page 23
2. STARTING TO SEW
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the
accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your
new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each
time you sit down to sew;
1. Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point
It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not
be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics
made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than
fabrics made of natural fibers,
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the
threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric
should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch
and tension suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the
material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed
on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
S63rn<
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on
the speed control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never
pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward
you.
22
Page 24
“■GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
STRAIGHT STITCHING
Set your machine just as shown in the
illustration in order to straight stitch.
It is important each dial have the
following settings.
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - 5»i!!
Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 6
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Straight Stitch Foot
Straight Stitch Needle Plate
You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of
sewing - temporary and permanent.
1. Temporary stitching - Usually the longest stitch possible and often done
on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are;
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
2. Permanent stitching - This is the actual stitching that holds the garment
together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment
and therefore must be good looking.
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10 -12 stitches
per inch. This Is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.
You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple
layers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams
When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness,
sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this
area.
23
Page 25
' -».V'! FASTENING A SEAM
■fM
CcrMrinsOuid«
- i. i
Be sure both threads are drawn back
under the presser foo/t. Lower needle
into fabric about 1/2 inch from
beginning of seam. Turn the reverse
stitch .control clockwise and stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning
of seam. Release control and complete
seam. When you reach the end, turn the
control clockwise and sew back over
1 /2 inch of completed seam.
TURNING A SQUARE CORNER
To turn a square corner 5/8” from the
fabric edge, stop stitching with the
needle tip piercing the fabric, when
reaching the cornering guide as shown.
Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New
stitching line will align with 5/8” seam
guide on side of needle plate. Lower the
presser foot and begin stitching in new
direction.
24
Page 26
ZIGZAG STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ^®!)l
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - Any Number
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
This type of stitching greatly expands
the use of your machine. This is the
feature that enables you to overcast
seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole,
monogram, and make all the pretty
embroidery designs by machine. Simply
use the settings indicated in the
illustration for the simple zigzag. Follow
directions given In the following pages
for more specific uses.
OVERCASTING
This is one of the more frequently used
zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and
stitch. ■
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitch
ed.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge. Raw or
worn edges of older garments can be
overcast to prevent further raveling.
INTERFACING DARTS
To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut
interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
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25
Page 27
^ .i
STRETCH STITCHING
The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit tabrics. These
are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.
1. Stfaight Stretch
2. Rick-Rack Stretch
3. Smocking Stretch
4. Elastic Stretch
5. Overcast Stretch
6. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch
STRAIGHT STRETCH STiTCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ielll
Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Stitch Length Control - 6
Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot
Straight Stitch Foot
Straight Stitch Needle Plate
Use this stretch stitch with knitted
fabric and other fabrics that stretch.
Sew as you do with regular straight
stitch seaming. The seam may be
pressed open as with any regular
seam, but will stretch if necessary.
This is also a good stitch to use on
curved seams regardless of the type
of fabric. Any seam that will receive
a great deal of strain when worn
should be sewn with the stretch
stitch. Use in children's shorts and
slacks as well as adult sports clothes.
26
Page 28
RICK-RACK STRETCH
STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - 5*l!i
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - 6
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area
that you might use a zig zag stitch.
This stitch can be used as a decorative
top stitch as well.
SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING
SETTINGS
Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers across
the fabric that you wish to smock.
Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - :!;«
Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4
Stitch Length Control - 6
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
With a narrow strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering, stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series
of small diamonds.
When smocking a garment, the stitch
ing should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.
27
Page 29
OVERCAST STRETCH
STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Slitch Dial • “iS
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - 6 .
Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
This is the same type of* stitch used by
the garment industry in making sports
wear. It is used for seams of 3/B" to
1 /4”. The seam is formed and finished
in one operation. It must be used when
you are making swimwear, ski pants
and other garments that require stretch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.
Fig. 1
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast to prevent further
raveling.
ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial -
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - 6
Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
This is a good stitch to use in making or
repairing lingerie. The stitch is decora
tive as well as useful. Simply stitch the
elastic into place around the waist of the
garment, making sure that the elastic is
evenly spaced. To do this mark the
correct length piece into quarters and
match these markings with center front
and back of the garment as well as side
seams.
28
Page 30
SERGING OR PINE LEAF
STRETCH STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial •
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - 6
Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch is
equally useful with woven and knitted
fabrics. This stitch can be used in
making elastic swimwear, as well as
overcasting a neat edge on the seams.
SHELL STITCHING
This stitch used on the edge of nylon
tricot makes a lovely Shell finish. Use
the foliowing settings:
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ih
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control -10
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
When sewing this stitch, allow needle to
just clear the right edge of the fabric
when it zig zags.
29
Page 31
■" SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES
After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishing
touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has been
designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand.
..........................
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
(Model 1525)
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - S*!l!
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1
Stitch Length Control -12
Buttonhole Control - F
Bottonhole Guide
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Carefully mark the buttonhole
length on your garment. Mount
the buttonhole guide onto the
presser foot so that rear edge of
presser foot is at the rear end of
the guide, with upper thread as
shown. Place the fabric with
buttonhole marked, under the
buttonhole guide.
Without lowering the foot, let the
needle pierce the fabric at the be
ginning of the buttonhole. Lower
presser foot.
Reproduction of the identical size
buttonholes is facilitated with the
aid of the graduations on the left
side of the buttonhole guide.
These graduations are apart.
Always start buttonhole with foot
positioned at rear end of the guide.
After first buttonhole is made, al
ways stitch forward to point on
front of guide as with first button
hole. Graduations act as reference
mark.
30
2. With the buttonhole control at F,
stitch forward until you approach
the front marking of your button
hole.
Page 32
3. Turn the control to "R" stitching
back to the beginning of the button
hole. The speed with which the
control is turned determines the
number of stitches at the end of the
buttonhole. The slower the control Is
turned while sewing, the more
stitches formed.
Fig.3
4. Turn the control back to F to finish
buttonhole.
Fig. 4
31
Page 33
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
(Model 1947)
SETTINGS
Step 1. Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - □
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Carefully mark the buttonhole length
on your garment. Mount the button
hole guide onto the presser foot so
that rear edge of presser foot is at
the rear end of the guide, with upper
thread as shown. Place the fabric
wrth buttonhole marked, under the
buttonhole guide.
Without lowering the foot, let the
needle pierce the fabric at the be
ginning of the buttonhole. Lower
presser foot.
Reproduction of the identical size
buttonholes is facilitated with the aid
of the graduations on the left side of
the buttonhole guide.
These graduations are 1/8" apart.
Always start buttonhole with foot
positioned at rear end of the guide.
After first buttonhole is made, al
ways stitch forward to point on front
of guide as with first buttonhole.
Graduations act as reference mark.
32
Page 34
2. Set special stitch dial at □ and
bartack several times at the marked
beginning of the buttonhole. Stop
sewing at the left stitch. Raise
needle to its highest position by
turning handwheel toward you
manually.
3. Set special stitch dial at <o. Stitch
forward until you approach the front
marking of the buttonhole. Stop
sewing at the left stitch and raise
needle to its highest position as in
Step 1.
4. Set special stitch dial at a again and
bartack several times. Raise needle
at its highest position as in Steps 1
and 2. ,
33
Page 35
Set special stitch dial at a*and
continue sewing until needle reaches
beginning of your buttonhole.
If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching, slightly adjust
the fetitch length control during forward sewing.
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the
buttonhole with the button you will use.
Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue
paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly and use a wider
stitch width setting.
34
Page 36
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
(Model 1660,1357)
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial -
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1
Stitch Length Control - 0
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Feed Dogs - Down
Buttonhole Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Turn hand wheel so needle Is down.
Remove báse front cover by pushing
release button. Open shuttle cover.
Insert buttonhole adapter minus
cover plate with pinion gear. Insert
cover plate at 45 degree angle. Snap
into plate.
2. Screw guide pin into the guide pin
hole on the machine bed directly
behind the needle plate.
3. Insert a template into the slot of
template holder by lifting the bottom
portion of the Template Holder.
Select the proper size buttonhole
by turning the Template Advance
Knob.
Pull guide plate all the way forward
so that guide pin is at S. This will
enable you to start at one end of the
buttonhole. Drop guide plate into
place over gear on cover plate.
4. Pick up bobbin thread through
guide plate by turning hand wheel
and drawing thread to back of
machine. Place fabric between
presser foot and guide plate. Line
up edge of fabric with marked
indentation on guide. See Fig. 4.
If you wish all buttonholes to be
3/4 inch from edge of garment,
line up fabric with 3/4 inch mark
ing each time you start sewing a
buttonhole.
Guide Pin
Hole
Guide Pin
Template Advance Knob
Window
Template
Pinion
Gear
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
35
Page 37
BLIND HEMMING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - •*15
Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 8
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag foot or edgestitcher if available
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Finish edge of hem anyway you
desire. Turn up hem appropriate
width. (Fig. 1)
2.
Fold garment away from hem
leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending.
IFig. 2)
/
36
Presaer
Foot
Right Side of
Finished Hem
Fig. 2
3. Place garment under presser foot in
such a manner that straight stitches
will be sewn on extended edge.
The zigzag stitch should just catch
the fold of the garment. (Fig. 3)
Fig.3
4, Press both sides of the finished hem.
The right side of the garment will
show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 4
Page 38
SATIN STITCHING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - $•!!!
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Satin Stitch Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive
stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the
tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser
the tension should be.
' ' * '-i!»
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue
paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will
be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of
the fabric.
As with all special stitches, It is best to make a sample design on your fabric
before starting the design on the garment.
APPLIQUEING
SETTINGS .
Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique design to be applied
to your garment and baste it In place.
Satin stitch around the raw edge of
the applique completely covering the
edge. You may want to do this with
a contrasting cólor of thread or self
color.
37
Page 39
ZIPPER APPLICATION
Fig. 1
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Stitch Length Control - 12 io 10
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zipper Foot ■
Straight Stitch Needle Plate
/
REGULAR ZIPPER
The foot is adjustable for use on the
right or left side of the needle when
sewing the regular type of zipper.
Adjust the foot so the needle clears
the side notch on the foot. See Fig. 1.
Carefully follow directions given on
the zipper package.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing
through the center hole of the foot and
one groove of the foot is riding on the
teeth of the zipper.
See Fig. 2. Follow the zipper manu
facturer’s Instructions.
After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side
position sewing through side notch.
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with
a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown
in Fig. 3.
38
Page 40
MENDINQ
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial -
Stitch Width Control - 4
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
To repair a straight or three-cornered
tear, position the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear. When mending
a three-cornered tear, stitch from each
end to the center. It is well to use a
piece of fabric under the tear for re
inforcement.
DARNING
SETTINGS
iill
,
..............................
liillilli
Special Stitch Dial - i»|||
Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot
Feed Dogs - Up
No Presser Foot
Remove presser foot, stretch fabric be
tween embroidery hoops with hole
centered. Draw the bobbin thread up
through the fabric by holding the top
thread and taking one stitch at the spot
where you wish to start darning.
Lowering the presser bar, start sewing
at a slow to medium speed. Move the
fabric back and forth with a steady
rhythm to cover the darning area.
When it is covered, turn the fabric and
sew another layer of stitching across
the first layer of stitching.
39
Page 41
BUTTON SEWiNQ
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - 5«!
Feed Dogs - Down
Zigzag P^esser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
1. Align two holes of button with slot
of presser foot and lower foot to
hold the button securely.
.2. Turn hand wheel manually until
needle point is just above button.
3. Adjust stitch width control so
needle will enter left hole of the
button.
4. Turn hand wheel again by hand so
needle enters second hole. Re
adjust stitch width if necessary.
Stitch a number of times.
5. Finish sewing with an extra two
inches of thread remaining. Draw
these threads to reverse side of
garment and tie.
40
BAR TACKING
SETTINGS
Spscial Stitch Dial -
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Buttonhole Control - Red Dot
Zigzag Presser Foot
Zigzag Needle Plate
This Stitch is similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points of strain such as corners of
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
Page 42
FREE-ARM SEWING
i.v.i^-.'Ä.i li lA '.
This sewing machine can be used like
a flat bed machine, but easily converts
to free arm machine by removing the
base.
The free arm enables you to sew
tubular types of pieces more easily.
Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on
the free arm as shown above.
You will find many uses for this free
arm feature such as:
1. Mend elbows and knees of gar
ments more easily,
2. Sew in sleeves more eaiily. This
is especially true when sewing
smaller garments,
3. Applique, embroider or hem around
edges of cuffs or pants legs.
4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts
or pants at the waistline.
41
Page 43
NJ
Checking Performance Problems what to do
PROBLEM
Irregular
Stitches
Breaking
Needle
Bunching of
Thread
Puckering
PROBABLE CAUSE
Incorrect size needle.
Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric. '
Light pressure on presser foot.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly ound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
plate.
Pulling fabric.
Inconect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.:
Upper and lower threads not drawn
back under presser foot before
starting seam.
Incorrect thread tension(s).
Light pressure on; presser foot.
Using two different sizes or kinds
of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser fo0t^>
Fabric too'shecMT'Or too soft.
CORRECTION
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Rethread machine.^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Increase pressurevbn presser foot.
Reset presser foot. ^ ^
Rewind bobbin.
Replace shuttle^ or polish off burrs completely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle. '
Reset presser foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads undbr and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches
are formed.
Reset thread tension(s). • "
Increase pressure on presser foot.
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot. , .
Use-underlay of tissue paper. .
Page 44
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Sicipping
Stitchfts . .
Breaking Up^ ..
Thread
Breaking Bobbin
Thread
Fabric not
Moving
Incorrect size needle.
Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle.^
Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight uppervthread tension.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Starting to stitch too fast,
improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension,
incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
plate. ■ :■■■.: ■ '
Improper bobbin case threading,
light bobbin thread tendon.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Feed dog down.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Thread knotted under fabric.
Choose- correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Use “Q.NTKIH.E"..
InMitnewneedle.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Increase pressure on {Messer foot.
Start to stitch St a medium speed.
Rethreed machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose ctKrect size needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needle.
Replace shuttle; or (joiish off burrs com{>letely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs comisietelv.
Check bobbin case threading.
Loosen bobbin thread tension.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle,. "
Raise feed dog. '
Increase pressure on presser foot.
Place both threads beck under presser foot before
beginning to stitch.
...........................................
CO
Madwia Jamnring
Knocking «Oise
Threadcaughtlin imtittle.
Oisasaeinble and clean shuttla. /
Page 45
. CARING FOR THE MACHINE ^
CLEANING AND OILING
Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a
To insure the best possible operation
of your-machine, it is necessary to
keep the essential parts clean at all
times. Using a small brush, remove
Fig. 1
the lint that accumulates in the shuttle
area and around the feed dogs.
Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly
To Clean the Shuttle Area:
brush.
le vèr-
pointed ^
hook
Shuttle Assembly
Shuttle Race Cover
Shuttle
—-levér
shuttle driver
1. This area must be kept free of dust,
lint and occasional tangled thread.
Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove thé bobbin case.
2. Push levers of shuttle race aside
and lift shuttle race cover and shut
tle out.
3. Clean the shuttle race with small
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin
of the shuttle and shuttle race,
(see arrows)
To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so
that shuttle driver is forming half
moon on the left side of the
machine.
2. Hold shuttle by center pin and
position shuttle so as to form a half
moon on the right side. Pointed
hook will be on the bottom.
44
3. Place shuttle race cover Into place
over shuttle assembly.
Shuttle Race
Fig. 2
Page 46
OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE
Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head.
To remove cover plate, Insert a screw driver into the spacing between arm
casting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.
45
Page 47
OILING UNDERSIDE
Tilt machine head back and remove bottom cover to oil points injdicated on
underside of machine. To remove bottom cover, remove screws (A), (B),
(C), (D) and (E) as shown below.
46
Page 48
OILING UNDERSIDE
Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine.
OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE
Swing hinged face cover plate
open and oil points indicated in
illustration.
Page 49
PARTS LIST
48
Page 50
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. or
Simpsons - Sears Limited store or service center. -
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE ТЙЕ FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronlcaily
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16 ,
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Part No.
47
38295
38296
6510
*6862
1939
8286
2273
*6740
*6741
*6742
*6743 No. 16 Single needles in green case
•6744
*6746
36353
40390
6870
6873
6757
41620
40530
36214
48274
41664
35346
35347
6864
6797
41152
41014
6830
41670
41669
•6889
Description
Shuttle
Needle plate insert... Zigzag stitch
Needle plate insert... Straight stitch
Bobbin case ,
Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring
Thread spool pin
Nylon disc
No. 9 Single needles in orange case
No. 11 Single needles in yellow case
No. 14 Single needles in red case
No. 18 Single needles in blue case
"Q NEEDLES" tm in chocolate case
Needle clamp with screw
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Straight stitch foot
Zipper foot
Buttonhole guide
Buttonhole cover plate
Buttonhole cover plate
Buttonhole adapter
Buttonhole guide plate
Buttonhole template (No. 1)
Buttonhole template (No. 2)
Needle threader
Light bulb
Motor belt
Motor belt
Buttonhole opener
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Oil and lint brush
*These items are not furnished with the machine, but may
be ordered per instructions above.
49
Page 51
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a
need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any
Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. or
Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent
facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on
your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.
See Section 1, page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
♦MODEL NUMBER ♦NAME OF ITEM ♦PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be
electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A. and
SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
S - 1 58
Part No. 60278 5/91
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