Harley Davidson Touring 2004 Service Manual sm03a

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SPECIFICATIONS 3.1

MANUFACTURING TOLERANCES

General
Number of cylinders 2
Ty pe 4-cycle, 45˚V2, air-cooled
To rque
Bore 3.75 in. (95.25 mm)
Stroke 4.00 in. (101.6 mm)
Piston displacement (approx.) 88 cu. in. (1450 cc)
Compression ratio 9.0:1
Combustion chamber 5.187 cu. in. (85 cc) bathtub
Cam system
Max. sustained engine speed 5500 rpm
Idle speed 1000 rpm +/- 50
Weight 165 lbs (74.8 kg)
85 ft-lbs (115.2 Nm) @ 3000
rpm, chrome dual exhaust
Tw in cams, chain driven with
spring loaded tensioners
Ignition System
Ty pe
Ignition timing:
1050 rpm (Hot Idle)
Spark plug size 12 mm
Spark plug type Harley-Davidson 6R12
Spark plug gap 0.038-0.043 in. (0.97-1.09 mm)
Spark plug torque 12-18 ft-lbs (16-24 Nm)
Sequential, non waste spark,
MAP-N control
o
20o-30
Oiling System
Pump
Pressure
Filtration
Rocker Arm
Shaft fit in bushing (loose)
End clearance 0.003-0.013 0.08-0.33
Bushing fit in rocker arm (tight)
Rocker Arm Shaft
Shaft fit in rocker arm support plate (loose)
Tw in gerotor, dual scavenge, crank mounted
and driven, internal oil pump, dry sump
30-38 psi (207-262 kN/m2) at
2000 rpm and normal operating temperature
of 230o F (110o C)
10 micron media,
filtered between pump and engine
IN. MM
0.0005-0.0020 0.013-0.051
0.002-0.004 0.051-0.102
IN. MM
0.0007-0.0022 0.018-0.056
Hydraulic Lifter
Fit in crankcase (loose) 0.0008-0.0020 0.02-0.05
Cylinder Head
Valve guide in head (tight) 0.0020-0.0033 0.051-0.084
Valve seat in head (tight) 0.003-0.0045 0.076-0.114
Head gasket surface (flatness)
Valve
Fit in guide: exhaust 0.0015-0.0033 0.038-0.084
Fit in guide: intake 0.0008-0.0026 0.020-0.066
Seat width 0.040-0.062 1.02-1.58
Stem protrusion from cylinder head boss
Valve Spring
Closed
Open
Free length
@ 1.751-1.848 in.
@ 44.45-46.9 mm
@ 1.282-1.378 in.
@ 32.6-35.0 mm
2.105-2.177 in. 1.926-1.996 in.
53.47-55.3 mm 48.9-50.7 mm
Piston
Fit in cylinder:
Early Style Piston Late Style Piston
Ring end gap:
To p compression ring
2nd compression ring
Oil control ring
Ring side clearance:
To p compression ring
2nd compression ring
Oil control ring
Piston pin fit (loose) 0.0002-0.0005 0.005- 0.013
IN. MM
IN. MM
0-0.006 0-0.0152
IN. MM
1.990-2.024 50.55-51.41
Outer Inner
72-92 lbs
33-42 kg
183-207 lbs
83-94 kg
38-49 lbs
@ 1.577-1.683 in.
17-22 kg
@ 40.1-42.8 mm
98-112 lbs
@ 1.107-1.213 in.
44-51 kg
@ 28.1-30.8 mm
IN. MM
0.0006-0.0017
0.0014-0.0025
0.010-0.020
0.014-0.024
0.010-0.050
0.0012-0.0037
0.0012-0.0037
0.0031-0.0091
0.015-0.043
0.036-0.064
0.25-0.51
0.36-0.61
0.25-1.27
0.030-0.094
0.030-0.094
0.079-0.23
2004 Touring: Engine 3-1
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MANUFACTURING TOLERANCES (CONT.)

Connecting Rod
Piston pin fit (loose) 0.0007-0.0012 0.018-0.030
Side play between flywheels
Connecting rod to crankpin (loose)
Flywheel
Runout (flywheels at rim)
Runout (shaft at flywheel)
End play 0.003-0.010 0.076-0.254
Crankshaft/Sprocket
Shaft Bearings
Bearing fit (loose) 0.0002-0.0015 0.005-0.038
Crankshaft runout 0.0-0.003 0.0-0.076
Bearing fit in crankcase (tight)
Bearing inner race on crankshaft (tight)
IN. MM
0.005-0.015 0.13-0.38
0.0004-0.0017 0.0102-0.0432
IN. MM
0.000-0.010 0.000-0.254
0.000-0.002 0.000-0.051
IN. MM
0.0038-0.0054 0.097-0.137
0.0004-0.0014 0.010-0.036

TORQUE VALUES

Item
Breather assembly bolts 90-120 Cam cover screws 125-155 Cam cover plate screws 20-30 Cam support plate screws 90-120 Bearing retainer plate
screws
Crank sprocket flange bolt
Primary cam sprocket flange bolt
Crank position sensor screw
Piston jet screws 25-35 Tr ansmission housing to
crankcase bolts Crankcase to front engine
mounting bracket bolts
Crankcase bolts
Cylinder head bolts
Cylinder studs 10-20 ft-lbs 14-27 Nm Engine oil drain plug 14-21 ft-lbs 19-28 Nm Lifter cover screws 90-120 Oil pan screws 84-108 Oil filter 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Oil filter mount 12-16 ft-lbs 16-22 Nm Crankcase oil fittings/plugs
Oil hose cover screws 84-108 Oil pressure switch/sender 96-120 Rocker arm support
plate bolts Rocker cover bolts 15-18 ft-lbs 20-24 Nm Rocker housing bolts
Spark plugs 12-18 ft-lbs 16-24 Nm Stator screws
Upper engine mounting bracket:
To cylinder heads To top stabilizer link
Engine temperature sensor
Intake flange adapter screws
Exhaust flange adapter nuts
ft/in-lbs NM
in-lbs
10-14 Nm
in-lbs
14-18 Nm
in-lbs
2.3-3.4 Nm
in-lbs
10-14 Nm
20-30
in-lbs
2-3 Nm
15 ft-lbs,
loosen one full
turn, 24 ft-lbs
15 ft-lbs,
loosen one full
turn, 34 ft-lbs
90-120
in-lbs
in-lbs
15 ft-lbs,
30-35 ft-lbs
33-38 ft-lbs 45-52 Nm
10 ft-lbs,
15-19 ft-lbs
120-144
in-lbs
15-17 ft-lbs
o
+ 90
turn
in-lbs in-lbs
120-168
in-lbs in-lbs in-lbs
18-22 ft-lbs 24-30 Nm
120-168
in-lbs
55-75
in-lbs
35-40 ft-lbs 18-22 ft-lbs
120-180
in-lbs
96-144
in-lbs
100-120
in-lbs
20.3 Nm,
loosen one full
turn, 32.5 Nm
20.3 Nm,
loosen one
full turn, 46.1
Nm
10.2-13.6 Nm
2.8-4.0 Nm 20 Nm,
41-48 Nm
14 Nm,
20-26 Nm
,
13.6-16.3 Nm,
20.3-23.1 Nm + 90o turn
10-14 Nm
9-12 Nm
13.6-18.9 Nm 10-12 Nm 11-14 Nm
13.6-18.9 Nm
6.2-8.5 Nm
48-54 Nm 24-30 Nm
13.6-20.3 Nm
10.9-16.3 Nm
11.3-13.6 Nm
3-2 2004 Touring: Engine
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SERVICE WEAR LIMITS 3.2

GENERAL

REPLACE IF
IN. MM
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
Wear limits can be used as a guide when deciding whether to reuse engine parts. Replace used parts whenever the follow­ing wear limits are exceeded.
Rocker Arm/
Rocker Arm Shaft
Shaft fit in bushing (loose) More than 0.0035 More than 0.089
End clearance More than 0.025 More than 0.635
Shaft fit in rocker arm support plate (loose)
More than 0.0035 More than 0.089
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
REPLACE IF
Hydraulic Lifter
IN. MM
Fit in crankcase More than 0.003 More than 0.08
Roller fit More than 0.0015 More than 0.038
Roller end clearance More than 0.015 More than 0.38
REPLACE IF
Cam Support Plate
IN. MM
Cam chain tensioner shoe wear
Crankshaft bushing fit in cam support plate
Crankshaft bushing maximum ID
More than 0.090 More than 2.29
1/2 thickness of shoe
Less than 0.0008 Less than 0.0203
More than 0.8545 More than 21.704
Cylinder Bore
Standard More than 3.752 More than 95.301
0.005 in. oversize More than 3.757 More than 95.428
0.010 in. oversize More than 3.762 More than 95.555
Piston
Fit in cylinder (loose) More than 0.003 More than 0.076
Piston pin fit (loose) More than 0.0008 More than 0.020
Ring end gap
To p compression More than 0.030 More than 0.76
2nd compression More than 0.034 More than 0.86
Oil control ring rails More than 0.050 More than 1.27
Ring side clearance
To p compression More than 0.0045 More than 0.11
2nd compression More than 0.0045 More than 0.11
Oil control ring rails More than 0.010 More than 0.25
Connecting Rod
Piston pin fit (loose) More than 0.002 More than 0.051
Side play between flywheels
Fit on crankpin (loose) More than 0.002 More than 0.051
More than 0.020 More than 0.508
Cylinder Head
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
Valve guide in head (tight) Less than 0.002 Less than 0.051
Valve seat in head (tight) Less than 0.002 Less than 0.051
Head warpage More than 0.006 More than 0.152
REPLACE IF
Cylinder
IN. MM
Ta per More than 0.002 More than 0.051
Out of round More than 0.002 More than 0.051
Warpage of gasket or O-ring surfaces: top
Warpage of gasket or O-ring surfaces: base
More than 0.006 More than 0.152
More than 0.004 More than 0.102
Flywheel
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
Runout (flywheels at rim) More than 0.015 More than 0.381
Runout (shaft at flywheel) More than 0.003 More than 0.076
End play More than 0.010 More than 0.254
Crankshaft/Sprocket
Shaft Bearings
Bearing to shaft clearance
Shaft runout More than 0.003 More than 0.076
Bearing fit in crankcase (tight)
Bearing inner race on shaft (tight)
More than 0.0015 More than 0.038
Less than 0.0038 Less than 0.097
Less than 0.0004 Less than 0.010
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
2004 Touring: Engine 3-3
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SERVICE WEAR LIMITS (CONT.)

Breather Assembly
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
Breather cover warpage More than 0.005 More than 0.13
Breather baffle warpage More than 0.005 More than 0.13
Valve Stem to
Guide Clearance
Intake More than 0.0035 More than 0.089
Exhaust More than 0.0040 More than 0.102
REPLACE IF
IN. MM
3-4 2004 Touring: Engine
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GENERAL INFORMATION 3.3

FUEL

Use a good quality leaded or unleaded gasoline (91 pump octane or higher). Octane rating is usually posted on the pump.
CAUTION
Using gasolines with alcohol additives (such as metha­nol) can cause rubber components within the fuel sys­tem to fail or result in engine damage.

GASOLINE/ALCOHOL BLENDS

Harley-Davidson motorcycles were designed to give the best performance using unleaded gasoline. Some fuel suppliers sell gasoline/alcohol blends as a fuel. The type and amount of alcohol added to the fuel is important.
DO NOT USE GASOLINES CONTAINING METHANOL. Using gasoline/methanol blends will result in starting and driveablility deterioration and damage to critical fuel system components.
ETHANOL is a mixture of 10% ethanol (Grain alcohol) and 90% unleaded gasoline. Gasoline/ethanol blends can be used in your motorcycle if the ethanol content does not exceed 10%.
REFORMULATED OR OXYGENATED GASOLINES
(RFG): “Reformulated gasoline” is a term used to describe gasoline blends that are specifically designed to burn cleaner than other types of gasoline. Your motor­cycle will run normally using this type of gas.
Yo u may find that some gasoline blends adversely affect the starting, driveability or fuel efficiency of your bike. If you experience one or more of these problems, we recommend you try a different brand of gasoline or gasoline with a higher octane rating.

LUBRICATION

CHECKING ENGINE OIL LEVEL

Oil level cannot be accurately measured on a cold engine. For preride inspection, with motorcycle leaning on jiffy stand on level ground, oil should register on dip­stick between arrows when engine is cold. Do NOT add oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on a COLD
1. Perform engine oil level a. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
b. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil. Oil
level should register between the two arrows on the dipstick. See Figure 3-1. If oil level is at or below the lower arrow, add only enough oil to bring the level between the two arrows on the dipstick.
2. Perform engine oil level a. Ride vehicle until engine is at normal operating tem-
perature.
b. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, allow engine to idle for 1-2 minutes. Turn engine off.
c. Wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil
pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
d. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil.
Add only enough oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick. See Figure 3-1. Do not overfill.
COLD CHECK
HOT CHECK
as follows:
as follows:
engine.
COLD CHECK
HOT CHECK
f1254b3x
Figure 3-1. Engine Oil Dipstick
2004 Touring: Engine 3-5
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Figure 3-2. Oil Filter Wrench (Part No. HD-42311)
f1641x3x
5. Remove the oil filter as follows: a. Obtain the OIL FILTER WRENCH (HD-42311). The
tool allows easy removal of the oil filter without risk of damage to the crankshaft position sensor or cable.
b. Place the jaws of the wrench over the oil filter with
the tool oriented vertically. See Figure 3-3.
c. Using a 3/8 inch drive with a 4 inch extension, turn
wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Do not use with air tools.
NOTE
Use OIL FILTER WRENCH (HD-44067) if HD-42311 is not available.
6. Clean the oil filter mount flange of any old gasket mate­rial.
7. Lubricate gasket with clean engine oil and install
new
oil filter on filter mount. Hand tighten oil filter 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket first contacts filter mounting surface. Do
NOT
use OIL FILTER WRENCH for oil filter installation.
NOTE
Use of the Premium 10 micron synthetic media oil filter is highly recommended, Part No. 63798-99 (Chrome) or 63731­99 (Black).
Figure 3-3. Remove Engine Oil Filter

CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER

NOTE
At the 1000 mile (1600 km) service interval, and at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter, change the engine oil and engine oil filter. If motorcycle is ridden hard, under dusty conditions or in cold weather, change engine oil and filter more often.
1. Ride vehicle until engine is at normal operating tempera­ture.
2. Locate oil filler plug/dipstick on right side of vehicle at top of transmission case. To remove the oil filler plug, pull steadily while moving plug back and forth.
3. Locate oil drain plug at front left side of the oil pan. Remove the oil drain plug and allow oil to drain com­pletely.
4. Inspect the oil drain plug O-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration. Replace as necessary.
8. Install engine oil drain plug with O-ring. Tighten plug to 14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm).
9. With vehicle resting on jiffy stand, add 3-1/2 quarts (3.3 liters) engine oil as specified in Ta bl e 3-1. Use the proper grade of oil for the lowest temperature expected before the next oil change.
Table 3-1. Recommended Engine Oils
Harley-Davidson
Type
HD Multi-grade
HD Multi-grade
HD Regular Heavy
HD Extra Heavy
Viscosity
SAE
10W40
SAE
20W50
SAE
SAE
Harley-
Davidson
Rating
HD 360
HD 360
HD 360
50
HD 360
60
CAUTION
Oil level cannot be accurately measured on a cold engine. For preride inspection, with motorcycle leaning on jiffy stand on level ground, oil should register on dip­stick between arrows when engine is cold. Do NOT add oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on a COLD
10. Perform engine oil level
COLD CHECK
Lowest
Ambient
Temperature
Below 40˚F
(4˚C)
Above 40˚F
(4˚C)
Above 60˚F
(16˚C)
Above 80˚F
(27˚C)
as follows:
Cold Weather
Starts Below
50˚F (10˚C)
Excellent
Good
Poor
Poor
engine.
3-6 2004 Touring: Engine
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a. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
b. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil. Oil
level should register between the two arrows on the dipstick. See Figure 3-1. If oil level is at or below the lower arrow, add only enough oil to bring the level between the two arrows on the dipstick.
11. Perform engine oil level
a. Ride vehicle until engine is at normal operating tem-
perature.
b. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, allow engine to idle for 1-2 minutes. Turn engine off.
c. Wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil
pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
d. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil.
Add only enough oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick. See Figure 3-1. Do not overfill.
12. Start engine and carefully check for oil leaks around drain plug and oil filter.
HOT CHECK
as follows:

WINTER LUBRICATION

Combustion in an engine produces water vapor. During start­ing and warm-up in cold weather, especially in freezing tem­peratures, the vapor condenses to water before the crankcase is hot enough to exhaust it through the breather system. If the engine is run long enough for the crankcase to become thoroughly heated, the water returns to vapor and is then exhausted.
An engine used for only short trips, and seldom allowed to thoroughly warm up, accumulates increasing amounts of water in the oil pan. Water mixed with oil forms a sludge that causes accelerated engine wear. In freezing temperatures, the water becomes slush or ice, which may clog oil lines and result in engine failure.
Always change the engine oil more often in winter. If the engine is used for short runs, change the oil even more fre­quently. The farther below freezing the temperature drops the more often the oil should be changed.

OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LAMP

The
red
OIL PRESSURE indicator lamp illuminates to indi­cate improper circulation of the engine oil. The lamp illumi­nates when the ignition is first turned on (before the engine is started), but should be extinguished once the engine is run­ning.
Check the engine oil level if the oil pressure indicator lamp remains illuminated. If the oil level is normal, stop the engine immediately. Do not ride the vehicle until the probem is located and corrected.
If the indicator lamp is not extinguished, it may be the result of a low oil level or diluted oil supply. In freezing weather, the oil feed and return lines can clog with ice or sludge. A defect in the lamp wiring, faulty oil pressure switch/sender, dam­aged oil pump, plugged oil filter element, incorrect oil viscos­ity, broken or weak spring in the oil pressure relief valve and/ or damaged or incorrectly installed O-rings in the engine may also cause the indicator lamp to remain on.
To troubleshoot the problem, always check the engine oil level first. If the oil level is OK, determine if oil returns to the pan from the oil return hose. If oil does not return, shut off the engine until the problem is located and corrected.
To check the engine oil pressure, proceed as follows:
1. Verify engine oil level. See CHECKING ENGINE OIL
LEVEL in this section.
2. Locate the oil pressure switch/sender at the front right side of the crankcase.
3. On FLHR/C/S models, pull elbow from post of oil pres­sure switch. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, pull exter­nal latch outward and use rocking motion to remove Packard connector from oil pressure sender.
4. On FLHR/C/S models, use a 15/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC30B) to remove oil pressure switch from crankcase. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, use 1­1/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC34A) to remove oil pressure sender.
5. Start OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER (HD-96921-
110) into crankcase bore. Using a 5/8 inch open end wrench, turn adapter until snug. See Figure 3-4.
6. Moving to left side of vehicle, route banjo fitting and hose of OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (HD-96921-52B) over shifter lever and oil filter to right side of engine. See Fig-
ure 3-5.
7. Slide washer on banjo bolt and insert through banjo fit­ting on gauge. Install second washer on bolt and thread into adapter until snug.
8. Run vehicle or simulate road running until engine is at normal operating temperature, approximately 230 (110o C.). Gauge reading will not be accurate if engine is not completely warmed.
9. Verify that oil pressure is 30-38 psi (207-262 kN/m2) at 2000 rpm.
10. Remove banjo bolt (and washers) from adapter. Remove gauge from vehicle and then remove adapter from crankcase.
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2004 Touring: Engine 3-7
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ENGINE OIL FLOW

Gauge
Banjo
Bolt
Washers
Figure 3-4. Oil Pressure Gauge
(Part No. HD-96921-52B)
Adapter
Figure 3-5. Install Adapter and Oil Pressure Gauge
NOTE
If reusing oil pressure switch/sender, apply Loctite Pipe Seal­ant with Teflon 565 to threads.
11. Start oil pressure switch/sender into crankcase bore.
12. On FLHR/C/S models, use a 15/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC30B) to tighten oil pressure switch to 96-120 models, use 1-1/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC34A) to tighten oil pressure sender to same torque.
13. On FLHR/C/S models, install elbow on post of oil pres­sure switch. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, install Packard connector to oil pressure sender.
If wire socket terminal requires replacement, see APPENDIX
B.5 SEALED BUTT SPLICE CONNECTORS.
14. Test oil pressure switch/sender for proper operation.
in-lbs
(11-14 Nm). On FLHT/C/U and FLTR
NOTE
Adapter
Part No. HD-96921-110
f1646x3x
Oil
Filter
CAUTION
The oiling system is carefully designed for optimum effi­ciency. All oil holes and passageways are specially sized. Exercise caution to avoid enlarging oil holes dur­ing cleaning. Any modification of the oiling system will adversely affect oil pressure or cooling and lubrication efficiency.

Oil Feed (Figures 3-6, 3-7)

Oil flows from the oil pan through a passageway at the front of the transmission housing into a flexible hose clamped to the lower fitting (A1) at the rear right side of the crankcase.
Running through a passageway in the crankcase, the oil exits a hole in the crankcase flange (B2) and enters a hole on the inboard side of the cam support plate. Passing through a channel in the cam support plate (A3), the oil enters the feed side of the oil pump. See OIL PUMP OPERATION. The feed gerotors of the pump direct the flow up a second channel in the cam support plate (A4).
A drilling in this channel connects to a pressure relief valve mounted in the bypass port of the cam support plate (A5). When the oil pressure exceeds the setting of the valve spring (35 psi), the orifice opens to bypass excess oil back to the feed side of the pump (A3).
Oil not returned to the feed side exits a hole on the inboard side of the cam support plate and passes through a hole in the crankcase flange (B6). Flowing through a passageway in the crankcase, where a reading is taken by the oil pressure sender (B7), the oil exits the lower hole in the oil filter mount (D8).
After circulating through the oil filter, the flow of oil is directed back into the crankcase through the upper hole in the oil filter mount (D9). Exiting a passageway in the crankcase through a hole in the crankcase flange (B10), the flow of oil reenters the cam support plate.
Filtered oil is then routed to the top and bottom ends of the engine, as described below.

Top End (Figures 3-6, 3-7)

Oil passes through a channel in the cam support plate exiting the inboard side through two holes near the top (A11, A12). Entering two holes in the crankcase flange (B13, B14), one leading to the front cylinder and the other to the rear, the oil travels through passageways in the crankcase to the hydrau­lic lifter bores (D15).
Exiting a hole in each lifter bore (E16), the oil flows around the lifter and enters a hole at the side of the lifter body. As the chamber inside the lifter body is filled, the push rod socket rises to achieve the no-lash fit of the valve train components. The flow of oil then exits a hole centered in the lifter socket and runs up the hollow push rods.
3-8 2004 Touring: Engine
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f1581b3x
A
B
Cam Support Plate
12 11
26
38
1
36
3
5
4
Crankshaft
Bushing
14
24
37
23
13
10
7
C
Crankshaft
Bearing
6
2
f1573b3x
Oil Pump
35
25
Cam Needle Bearings
34
f1580b3x
Figure 3-6. Engine Oil Flow - Cam Support Plate/Right Crankcase Half
2004 Touring: Engine 3-9
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NOTE Note that there is one additional hole drilled into the inside lifter bores- while the oblong hole circulates oil around the lifter body as described, the round hole (E17) feeds oil to the piston jets in the flywheel compartment.
Exiting holes at the top of the hollow push rods, oil enters a hole at the bottom of the intake and exhaust rocker arms. Lubricating the rocker arm bushings, oil flows down the rocker arm shafts and exits a pin hole in the outboard side of each rocker arm housing (F18) where it sprays the valve springs and the top of the valve stem.
Oil runs down to the low side of the rocker housing and enters the exhaust valve spring pocket where a drain hole (G19) leads to a passageway in the cylinder head casting.
Oil exits the bottom of the cylinder head and passes through a ring dowel (H20) on the “down side” of the cylinder flange. The oil runs through a vertical passageway in the cylinder, passes through a second ring dowel on the “down side” of the cylinder deck (I21) and enters the left crankcase half.
Flowing through a horizontal passageway in the left crank­case half (J22), oil runs through a third ring dowel (K23) to the right crankcase half where it travels through another pas­sageway before emptying into the cam compartment (B23, B24).
Oil collecting in the cam compartment is picked up by one of two scavenge lobes on the oil pump (B25).

Bottom End (Figures 3-6, 3-7, 3-8)

Oil travels down the center passage of the cam support plate (A26) and sprays out through pin holes on each side of the casting to lubricate both the primary and secondary cam chains. Oil also passes through a hole in the crankshaft bushing where the flow enters a drilling in the crankshaft (L27).
Oil runs down the center of the crankshaft and then up a cross drilling into the right side of the flywheel. The flow exits a drilling in the crank pin bore, enters the crank pin and then sprays out through three holes to lubricate the lower rod bearing set.
The oil splash and mist created by the action of the flywheel lubricates the crankshaft bearing and the camshaft needle bearings in the right crankcase half. This same action serves to lubricate the sprocket shaft bearing in the left crankcase half (M28).
Since the oil mist also lubricates the cylinder walls, three holes on each side of the piston (in the area of the third ring land) evacuate excess oil scraped from the walls on the pis­ton downstroke.
The piston jets (N29), which receive a supply of oil from the intake lifter bores, spray the underside of the piston for cool­ing of the piston crown and skirt area. A check valve in each jet opens only when the oil pressure reaches 12-15 psi, at which point the engine is operating above idle speed. At idle speeds (9-12 psi), the valve remains closed to prevent over oiling and to ensure proper system operating pressure.
Oil spray from each piston jet also enters a hole at the bottom of each pin boss (O30) for lubrication of the piston pin. Another hole at the top of the connecting rod (D31) allows a portion of the oil to reach the upper rod bushing.
Surplus oil falls back to the bottom of the flywheel compart­ment where it collects in the sump area (P32). Oil in the sump is drawn to the cam compartment through an internal channel (P33, C34) that connects with the second scavenge lobe of the oil pump (B35).

Oil Return (Figures 3-6, 3-8)

The “dual kidney” designation given to the oil pump refers to its two scavenging functions, whereby it simultaneously draws oil from both the cam and flywheel compartments.
Oil sucked up by the scavenge lobes passes through the scavenge gerotors of the oil pump and is directed through a return channel in the cam support plate (A36). See OIL PUMP OPERATION.
Exiting a hole on the inboard side of the cam support plate, the oil enters a hole in the crankcase flange (B37).
The oil flows through a passageway in the crankcase and exits the upper fitting at the rear right side of the crankcase (A38). Passing through a flexible hose connection, the flow of oil runs through a passageway at the front of the transmis­sion housing (Q39) before emptying into the oil pan at the front of the baffle (R40).
The oil flows to the rear of the oil pan along each side of the baffle. Spring tension holds the unit tight against the bottom of the pan to prevent oil from entering or escaping around the perimeter of the baffle. At the back of the oil pan, the oil enters the open side of the baffle where it is redirected for­ward. The baffle plates slow the circulation of the oil through the pan to enhance cooling.
Oil pickup occurs in the front compartment of the baffle where a passageway in the casting (S41) directs the flow upward. Passing through a second passageway in the trans­mission housing (Q42), the flow of oil enters the flexible hose connection (A1) to repeat the circuit.
Also note that a third flexible hose clamped to a fitting behind the rear lifter cover connects the cam compartment with the oil filler spout. This crankcase breather connection provides the pressure balance necessary for oil circulation.

Oil Pump Operation

The oil pump consists of a housing containing two gerotor gear sets, one feed and the other scavenge. Driven by the crankshaft, the feed gerotor set distributes oil to the engine, while the scavenge gerotor set draws oil from the cam and flywheel compartments and returns it to the oil pan.
3-10 2004 Touring: Engine
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D
15
31
9
8
H
20
E
F
17
16
18
I
J
21
22
G
19
K
23
Figure 3-7. Engine Oil Flow - Top End
2004 Touring: Engine 3-11
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L
M
P
27
32
33
Q
28
42
39
N
O
R
40
29
30
S
41
3-12 2004 Touring: Engine
Figure 3-8. Engine Oil Flow - Bottom End
f1562x3x
B
A
C
Inner
Gerotor
Outer
Gerotor
Seal
Oil In
Seal
Oil Out
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Each gerotor gear set has two parts, an inner and outer gero­tor. The inner and outer gerotors have fixed centers that are slightly offset to one another. Also, the inner gerotor has one less tooth.
As the crankshaft rotates, the cavity between the inner and outer gerotors on the inlet side of the pump increases in vol­ume. This creates a vacuum causing oil to be drawn in. The cavity continues to increase until the volume is equivalent to that of the missing tooth on the inner gerotor. Also note that the inlet and outlet sides of the pump are sealed by the tips and lobes of the inner and outer gerotors. See A of Figure 3-
9.
Continued rotation moves the pocket of oil to the outlet side of the pump. In this area, the cavity decreases in volume as the gerotor teeth mesh causing the oil to be squeezed out the discharge port. As the cavity on the outlet side is emptied, a second seal formed by the tips and lobes of the inner and outer gerotors prevents oil on the outlet side (high pressure) from being transferred to the inlet side (low pressure). See B of Figure 3-9.
In operation, the gerotors provide a continuous flow of oil. See C of Figure 3-9.

Breather Operation

NOTE The crankcase breather system relieves crankcase pressure produced by the downstroke of the pistons and allows crank­case vapors vacated from each cylinder to be directed into the air filter element. Through effective recirculation of crank­case vapors, the system serves to eliminate the pollutants normally discharged from the crankcase.
As each piston pushes downward on its power and intake stroke, displaced air in the flywheel compartment is vented through the crankshaft bearing into the cam compartment and then up the push rod covers into the rocker housing.
Air rushes under the rocker arm support plate, which is ele­vated slightly, and passes through an opening at the bottom of the plate to enter the breather baffle compartment.
In the baffle compartment, the flow of air passes upward through the oil filter gauze, where the oil is removed from the air. Two pin holes in the rocker arm support plate act as drain holes to rid the baffle compartment of the oil separated from the air.
Passing through the oil filter gauze, the flow of air passes through the umbrella valve into the breather compartment. The flaps of the umbrella valve only allow air to be vented one way, rising to allow the passage of air, but then falling back into place to seal the vent holes as the flow of air stops.
In the breather compartment, the flow of air reverses direc­tion passing downward through holes aligned in the breather baffle, rocker arm support plate and rocker housing. Exiting the rocker housing, the air enters a passageway cast into the top of the cylinder head. Proper orientation of the rocker housing gasket is critical for effective sealing of this passage­way.
Figure 3-9. Gerotor Operation
Flowing through the cylinder head passageway, the air passes through a drilling in the air cleaner backplate bolt and then through a breather tube into the air filter element.
NOTE
Air cleaner mounting without installation of the breather tubes allows crankcase vapors to be vented into the atmo­sphere in violation of legal emissions standards.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-13
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HOW TO USE THIS SECTION 3.4

GENERAL

Three basic levels of service are presented in this section: top end overhaul, bottom end overhaul and subassembly ser­vice and repair. The manner in which these instructions are used depends upon the level of disassembly required.

Top End Overhaul

If servicing only cylinder head components, pistons, cylinders and/or upper rod bushings, see Section 3.5 STRIPPING
MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE, and then proceed to Section
3.9 TOP END OVERHAUL, DISASSEMBLY. During top end
disassembly, the engine may be left in the chassis for ser­vice.
NOTE
If the engine is to be removed from the chassis, see Section
3.7 REMOVING ENGINE FROM CHASSIS in lieu of Section
3.5 STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE.
In the top end disassembly instructions, references are made to Section 3.11 SUBASSEMBLY SERVICE AND REPAIR for service of all top end subassemblies.
To rebuild the engine after a top end overhaul is complete, perform the steps under Section 3.9 TOP END OVERHAUL,
ASSEMBLY, immediately following the disassembly instruc-
tions. Then, refer to Section 3.6 ASSEMBLING MOTORCY-
CLE AFTER STRIPPING to complete the project.
NOTE For clarity, all artwork in this section shows the engine removed from the chassis for service.

Bottom End Overhaul

Bottom end service may require either partial or complete disassembly of the engine. Servicing components in the cam compartment requires only partial disassembly, while servic­ing those in the flywheel compartment requires complete dis­assembly. An easy rule to remember is that any time the crankcase halves must be split, complete disassembly needs to occur. The cam compartment can be accessed through removal of the cam cover making complete engine disassem­bly unnecessary.
During bottom end service that requires complete disassem­bly, the engine must be removed from the chassis and placed in an engine stand. To begin, see Section 3.7 REMOVING
ENGINE FROM CHASSIS.
After the motorcycle has been stripped and the engine removed, follow all of the steps under Section 3.9 TOP END
OVERHAUL, DISASSEMBLY. When finished, continue with
disassembly of the bottom half by performing those steps listed under Section 3.10 BOTTOM END OVERHAUL, DIS-
ASSEMBLY.
Engine in Chassis Engine Removed
Top End Overhaul,
Service and Repair-
Top End Overhaul,
Motorcycle After
Engine in Chassis Engine Removed
Compartment.
Motorcycle for
Top End Overhaul,
Service and Repair-
Top End Overhaul,
Motorcycle After
TOP END SERVICE
Stripping
Motorcycle for
Service.
Disassembly.
Subassembly
To p End.
Assembly.
Assembling
Stripping.
BOTTOM END SERVICE
Cam
Stripping
Service.
Disassembly,
Steps 1-11.
Bottom End
Overhaul,
Disassembly,
Steps 1-14.
Subassembly
Bottom End.
Bottom End
Overhaul,
Assembly,
Steps 6-25.
Assembly,
Steps 29-39.
Assembling
Stripping.
Flywheel Compartment
Removing Engine
From Chassis.
Top End Overhaul,
Disassembly.
Subassembly
Service and Repair-
To p End.
Top End Overhaul,
Assembly.
Installing Engine
In Chassis.
or Complete Engine
Overhaul.
Removing Engine
From Chassis.
To p End Overhaul,
Disassembly.
Bottom End
Overhaul,
Disassembly.
Subassembly
Service and Repair-
To p End.
Subassembly
Service and Repair-
Bottom End.
Bottom End
Overhaul, Assembly.
To p End Overhaul,
Assembly.
Installing Engine
In Chassis.
3-14 2004 Touring: Engine
Figure 3-10. Top/Bottom End Service
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As with the top end disassembly instructions, references are made to Section 3.11 SUBASSEMBLY SERVICE AND
REPAIR for service of bottom end subassemblies.
Since it is standard practice to inspect and clean all oil pas­sages when the engine is completely disassembled, a detailed explanation of the engine oil circuit is presented under Section 3.3 GENERAL INFORMATION, ENGINE OIL
FLOW.
To rebuild the engine after a bottom end overhaul is com­plete, perform the steps under Section 3.10 BOTTOM END
OVERHAUL, ASSEMBLY, and then proceed to Section 3.9 TOP END OVERHAUL, ASSEMBLY, to rebuild the upper
end. Once the engine is assembled, refer to Section 3.8 INSTALL-
ING ENGINE IN CHASSIS to complete the project.
The flow charts on the preceding page show how the same subsections are used for various levels of service.

Subassembly Service and Repair

Finally, if the task entails servicing of only one particular sub­assembly, then move directly to Section 3.11 SUBASSEM-
BLY SERVICE AND REPAIR for all service instructions.
For example, if just installing new cams, then refer to Section
3.11 SUBASSEMBLY SERVICE AND REPAIR, CAM SUP­PORT PLATE.
The steps under Section 3.9 TOP END OVERHAUL and Sec- tion 3.10 BOTTOM END OVERHAUL that need to be fol- lowed for the removal and installation of the cam support plate are given.
Furthermore, detailed instructions for disassembling, clean­ing, inspecting, replacing and assembling cam support plate components are provided.
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STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE 3.5

PROCEDURE

NOTE If performing top end service (or both cam compartment and
top end), follow steps 1-21. If servicing cam compartment components only, perform steps 1-12.
1. Drain and remove fuel tank. Proceed as follows:
Carbureted:
RETED), COMPLETE REMOVAL, FLHT/C, or FLHR/S.
Fuel Injected:
INJECTED), COMPLETE REMOVAL, FLHT/C/U/I, FLTRI, or FLHR/C/S/I.
2. Remove left side saddlebag. See Section 2.25 SAD-
DLEBAG, REMOVAL.
3. Gently pull left side cover from frame downtubes (no
tools required).
4. On Ultra models, hold locknut at bottom of left fairing
lower, and using a T40 TORX drive head, turn inside screw to free assembly from engine guard clamp. Dis­card rubber washer.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 to remove saddlebag, side cover and
fairing lower on right side of vehicle.
6. Remove the air cleaner and backplate. See Section 4.5
AIR CLEANER, REMOVAL.
7. Remove two allen head socket screws (with lockwashers
and flat washers) to release right side front footboard brackets from frame weldment. For best results, approach from left side of vehicle using a 3/8 inch ball allen with extension.
8. Remove exhaust system in two sections as follows:
a. Open two worm drive clamps to release heat shield
over rear header pipe to crossover pipe connection (above starter).
b. Loosen TORCA clamp between rear header pipe
and crossover pipe. Remove Keps nut and pull bracket tab and stud from slots in TORCA clamp and exhaust support bracket.
c. Spray PB Blaster or other suitable penetrating oil in
and around joint between rear header pipe and crossover pipe.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, remove two bolts (with
lockwashers) to detach left side muffler from the lower saddlebag support rail.
See Section 4.7 FUEL TANK (CARBU-
See Section 9.4 FUEL TANK (FUEL
e. Pull and twist on crossover pipe to remove left side
exhaust from vehicle. For best results, be sure to allow sufficient time for the penetrating oil to work.
f. Remove TORCA clamp assembly from crossover
pipe and discard.
NOTE
To ensure sealing integrity of TORCA clamps and prevent the possibility of leakage, Harley-Davidson recommends that TORCA assemblies be discarded and replaced each time they are removed.
g. Moving to right side of vehicle, open two worm drive
clamps and release heat shield from front header pipe. Using an impact wrench with long 1/2 inch swivel socket, remove two exhaust flange nuts to release front header pipe from studs of front cylin­der head. Slide exhaust flange down header pipe to improve clearance around exhaust port.
h. Open two worm drive clamps and release heat
shield from rear header pipe. Remove two exhaust flange nuts to release rear header pipe from studs of rear cylinder head.
i. Open two worm drive clamps to release heat shield
over front header pipe to rear header pipe connec­tion (outboard of transmission side door).
j. Remove bolt (with flat washer and locknut) from
transmission exhaust bracket clamp on front header pipe. Use a channel lock to open clamp and then remove from header pipe and transmission exhaust bracket.
k. Remove two bolts (with lockwashers) to detach right
side muffler from the lower saddlebag support rail.
l. Depressing rear brake pedal, remove right side
exhaust from vehicle.
m. Remove and discard gaskets from front and rear
exhaust ports.
9. Moving to left side of vehicle, pull boots on spark plug cables to release from spark plug and ignition coil tow­ers. Release cables from three cable clips at bottom of frame backbone.
10. Remove spark plugs.
11. Pull external latch outward and use rocking motion to remove electrical connector from left side of ignition coil.
12. Pull sides of ignition coil bracket outward to remove from bosses of front fuel tank mount.
13. Remove connections to carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
3-16 2004 Touring: Engine
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Carbureted:
a. Standing on left side of vehicle, remove electrical
connector from manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor at top of intake manifold.
b. Locate the fuel enrichener knob under the left side
of the fuel tank, and loosen hex nut at backside of mounting bracket. Slide cable assembly free of slot in mounting bracket.
Fuel Injected:
a. Standing on right side of vehicle, remove idle air
control and manifold absolute pressure sensor con­nectors. Pull external latch(es) outward and use rocking motion to separate pin and socket halves.
b. Depress wire form to remove electrical connectors
from front and rear fuel injectors.
c. Remove throttle position sensor and intake air tem-
perature sensor connectors.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, pull back boot to
reveal engine temperature sensor at back of front cylinder. Pull external latch outward and remove connector. Cut cable strap to release conduit from horn bracket.
e. Tuck free ends of EFI wire harness under main wire
harness on frame backbone to keep conduit and connectors out of the way.
a. Remove right side allen head socket screws from
front and rear cylinder head flange adapters. For best results, use a long 1/4 inch ball allen head socket with end driver 4 inches long.
b. Moving to opposite side of vehicle, just loosen left
side allen head socket screws from flange adapters. Slots in flanges make removal of left side screws unnecessary.
c. Remove intake manifold/carburetor or induction
module from right side of vehicle.
18. Standing on left side of vehicle, remove two hex head bolts (with flat washers) to release top engine mounting bracket from cylinder heads.
19. Leaving ground wire ring terminal in place, detach socket terminal of yellow lead from spade contact at back of horn. Release wire conduit from J-clamp.
20. Moving to right side of vehicle, turn hex head bolt to release stabilizer link from frame weldment.
21. Remove horn, top engine mounting bracket and stabi­lizer link as an assembly.
14. Remove idle and throttle control cables as follows:
Carbureted:
idle cable barrel from upper inboard hole in throttle wheel. Pull throttle cable barrel from remaining hole. Release idle and throttle cables from guides in throttle cable bracket.
Fuel Injected:
idle cable barrel from upper hole in throttle wheel. Pull throttle cable barrel from lower hole. Using slots, release idle and throttle cables from guides in throttle cable bracket.
15. Free idle and throttle control cables from J-clamp fas­tened to right side of frame backbone. Move cables up and out of the way.
16. If equipped with cruise control, remove E-clip from sleeve at end of cruise cable housing. Using slot, remove cable housing from cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Push the plastic end fitting on the cruise cable to the outboard side to release from wheel pin. Move cable up and out of the way.
17. Remove intake manifold/carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
Using a needle nose pliers, carefully pull
Using a needle nose pliers, carefully pull
2004 Touring: Engine 3-17
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ASSEMBLING MOTORCYCLE AFTER STRIPPING 3.6

PROCEDURE

NOTE
If top end service was performed (or both cam compartment and top end), follow steps 1-19. If only cam compartment components were serviced, perform steps 8-18.
1. Install intake manifold/carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
a. With the counterbore facing outward, slide cylinder
head flange adapters onto outlet ports of intake manifold/induction module. The flange adapters are not interchangeable. Look next to the slotted bolt hole for a stamp that indicates F(ront) and R(ear) cylinder.
b. Place a
beveled side in against the counterbore.
c. Standing on right side of engine, slide intake mani-
fold/induction module toward installed position so that open-ended slots on flange adapters begin to engage allen head socket screws loosely installed on left side.
d. Align fixed holes in flange adapters with those in
cylinder heads and start allen head socket screws. For best results, use a long 1/4 inch ball allen head socket with end driver 4 inches long.
e. Use the air cleaner backplate or INDUCTION SYS-
TEM ALIGNMENT BRACKET (P&A Part No. 40054-01) to properly locate carburetor/induction module. Proceed as follows:
Backplate
plate to front and rear cylinder heads. Install three T27 TORX screws to secure backplate to face of carburetor/induction module.
Alignment bracket
into holes in face of carburetor/induction module, install two breather bolts to fasten bracket to front and rear cylinder heads.
f. Tighten allen head socket screw in fixed holes of
flange adapters until snug. Moving to left side of engine, tighten screws in slotted holes to 96-144
lbs
g. Remove breather bolts and T27 TORX screws to
remove backplate, if installed.
h. Tighten allen head socket screws in fixed holes of
flange adapters to 96-144
i. Remove breather bolts to remove alignment
bracket, if installed.
new
seal in each flange adapter with the
: Install two breather bolts to fasten back-
: Fitting pins on inboard side
(10.9-16.3 Nm).
in-lbs
(10.9-16.3 Nm).
in-
2. Install horn, top engine mounting bracket and stabilizer link as an assembly. Proceed as follows:
a. Moving to right side of vehicle, turn hex head bolt to
secure stabilizer link to frame weldment. Tighten bolt to 18-22 ft-lbs (24-30 Nm).
b. Attach socket terminal of yellow lead to spade con-
tact at back of horn. Capture wire conduit in J­clamp.
c. Standing on left side of vehicle, install two hex head
bolts (with flat washers) to secure top engine mounting bracket to front and rear cylinder heads. Alternately tighten bolts to 35-40 ft-lbs (48-54 Nm).
3. If equipped with cruise control, slide groove in cruise cable end fitting over cap of wheel pin. Push on end fit­ting until it snaps in place. Using slot, slip cruise cable housing into cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Install
new
E-clip on sleeve at end of cruise cable housing.
4. Route idle and throttle control cables through J-clamp fastened to right side of frame backbone.
5. Install idle and throttle control cables as follows:
Carbureted:
shorter cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Drawing throttle cable downward, fit barrel end into lower out­board hole in throttle wheel. Install sleeve and spring on idle cable housing into longer cable guide inserting bar­rel end into upper inboard hole in throttle wheel.
Induction Module:
ing into shorter cable guide at top of throttle cable bracket. Drawing throttle cable downward, fit barrel end into lower hole in throttle wheel. Install sleeve and spring on idle cable housing into longer cable guide at bottom of throttle cable bracket inserting barrel end into upper hole in throttle wheel.
6. Adjust cables as necessary to keep barrel ends from dis­lodging. Verify that cables are seated in channel of throt­tle wheel. Verify operation by turning throttle grip and observing cable action.
7. Install connections to carburetor or induction module. Standing on left side of vehicle, proceed as follows:
Install sleeve on throttle cable housing into
Install sleeve on throttle cable hous-
Carbureted:
a. Moving to left side of vehicle, install electrical con-
nector to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor at top of intake manifold.
b. Slide threaded portion of enrichener cable into slot
of mounting bracket. Flat on threads must face rear of vehicle for script on enrichener knob to be right side up. With the external tooth lockwasher and hex nut positioned on the inboard side of the mounting bracket, tighten hex nut to 20-35 Nm).
in-lbs
(2.3-4.0
3-18 2004 Touring: Engine
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Fuel Injected:
a. Install electrical connectors on fuel injectors. b. Install manifold absolute pressure sensor and idle
air control connectors.
c. Install intake air temperature sensor and throttle
position sensor connectors.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, install connector to
engine temperature sensor at back of front cylinder. Pull boot over sensor to keep out dirt and debris. Install
new
cable strap to secure connector conduit
to horn bracket.
8. Install exhaust system as follows: a. Install
b. Place right side exhaust into position on vehicle and
c. Start two bolts (with lockwashers) to secure right
d. Start two exhaust flange nuts to secure rear header
e. Engaging transmission exhaust bracket, capture
To ensure sealing integrity of TORCA clamps and prevent the possibility of leakage, Harley-Davidson recommends that TORCA assemblies be discarded and replaced each time they are removed.
f. Moving to left side of vehicle, slide
g. Twist and push left side exhaust onto crossover
h. Start two bolts (with lockwashers) to secure left side
i. Returning to left side of vehicle, position TORCA
Verify that the exhaust pipes do not contact the vehicle frame or any mounted components. Contact will cancel the effect of the rubber isolation mounts and transmit vibration to the rider via the vehicle frame.
j. Tighten the exhaust system as follows:
new
gaskets in both the front and rear cylin-
der head exhaust ports (with the tapered side out).
start two exhaust flange nuts to secure front header pipe to studs of front cylinder head.
side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
pipe to studs of rear cylinder head.
front header pipe in transmission exhaust bracket clamp. Use a channel lock to close clamp, if neces­sary. Finger tighten clamp bolt (with flat washer and locknut).
NOTE
new
TORCA
clamp assembly onto crossover pipe.
pipe.
muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
clamp between rear header pipe and crossover pipe. Fit bracket tab into slot of TORCA clamp engaging stud in slot of exhaust support bracket. Start Keps nut on stud.
CAUTION
Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs
(1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs
(11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to
100-120
Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 top nut to 100-120 tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs
(11.3-13.6 Nm).
in-lbs
(1-2 Nm). Tighten the
in-lbs
(11.3-13.6 Nm). Final
in-lbs
(11.3-13.6
Nm).
Tighten the transmission exhaust bracket clamp bolt to 60-96
Tighten the two bolts (with lockwashers) to fasten
in-lbs
(6.8-10.8 Nm).
the right side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
Tighten the two bolts (with lockwashers) to fasten
the left side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
Verify that all exhaust pipes are in alignment and do
not contact the vehicle frame or mounted compo­nents.
Tighten the TORCA clamp between the rear header
pipe and crossover pipe to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm).
Tighten Keps nut securing bracket tab to exhaust support bracket.
Verify that the heat shields do not contact the vehicle frame or any mounted components. Contact will cancel the effect of the rubber isolation mounts and transmit vibration to the rider via the vehicle frame.
NOTE
Position worm drive clamps so that screws are on the out­board side in the most accessible position.
k. Open worm drive clamps and install heat shields as
follows: Over front header pipe (below exhaust port).
Over rear header pipe (below exhaust port). Over front header pipe to rear header pipe connec-
tion (outboard of transmission side door). Over rear header pipe to crossover pipe connection
(above starter).
l. Position each worm drive clamp so that screw is on
the outboard side in the most accessible position and then tighten to 20-40
in-lbs
(2.3-4.5 Nm).
9. Insert two allen head socket screws (with lockwashers and flat washers) through frame weldment into right side front footboard brackets. For best results, approach from left side of vehicle using a 3/8 inch ball allen with exten­sion.
10. Install the backplate and air cleaner. See Section 4.5
AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-19
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11. On Ultra models, place fairing lower into position on right side of vehicle. Holding T40 TORX screw inside fairing lower, install attach fairing bottom to engine guard. Do not tighten locknut.
12. Align barbed studs in right side cover with grommets in frame downtubes and push firmly into place (no tools required).
13. Install right side saddlebag. See Section 2.25 SADDLE-
BAG, INSTALLATION.
14. Repeat steps 11-13 to install side cover, saddlebag and fairing lower on left side of vehicle.
15. Install spark plugs in front and rear cylinder heads. Install the plugs finger tight and then tighten to 12-18 ft­lbs (16-24 Nm).
16. Install ignition coil and spark plug cables as follows: a. With the coil towers facing rear of vehicle, hold igni-
tion coil and bracket at bottom of frame backbone. Pull sides of bracket outward and install on bosses of front fuel tank mount. See Figure 3-11.
b. Install electrical connector on left side of ignition
coil.
c. Install spark plug cable to front cylinder onto left
side coil tower. Verify that spark plug cable is cap­tured in double-sided cable clip at bottom left side of frame backbone. Install damaged or missing.
d. Install spark plug cable to rear cylinder onto right
side coil tower. Verify that spark plug cable is cap­tured in two single-sided cable clips at bottom left side of frame backbone. Install studs if damaged or missing.
new
rubber washer, clamp and locknut to
new
cable clip on T-stud if
new
cable clips on T-
17. Install the fuel tank. Proceed as follows:
Carbureted:
RETED), INSTALLATION (AFTER COMPLETE REMOVAL), FLHT/C, or FLHR/S.
Fuel Injected:
INJECTED), INSTALLATION (AFTER COMPLETE REMOVAL), FLHT/C/U/I, FLTRI, or FLHR/C/S/I.
18. On Ultra models, hold locknut at bottom of fairing lower, and using a T40 TORX drive head, turn inside screw to fasten assembly to engine guard clamp. Tighten screw to 90-100 site side of vehicle.
19. Adjust idle and throttle control cables as follows:
Non-Cruise:
(NON-CRUISE), ADJUSTMENT.
Cruise Equipped:
TROL (FLHRC, FLTR, FLHTCU), CABLE ADJUST­MENT.
See Section 4.7 FUEL TANK (CARBU-
See Section 9.4 FUEL TANK (FUEL
in-lbs
(10.2-11.3 Nm). Repeat step on oppo-
See Section 2.21 THROTTLE CABLES
See Section 8.30 CRUISE CON-
3-20 2004 Touring: Engine
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REMOVING ENGINE FROM CHASSIS 3.7

PROCEDURE

1. Drain and remove fuel tank. Proceed as follows:
Carbureted:
RETED), COMPLETE REMOVAL, FLHT/C, or FLHR/S.
Fuel Injected:
INJECTED), COMPLETE REMOVAL, FLHT/C/U/I, FLTRI, or FLHR/C/S/I.
2. Remove the primary chaincase. See Section 6.5 PRI-
MARY CHAINCASE, REMOVAL, steps 2-18.
3. Remove left side saddlebag. See Section 2.25 SAD-
DLEBAG, REMOVAL.
4. Gently pull left side cover from frame downtubes (no tools required).
5. On Ultra models, hold locknut at bottom of left fairing lower, and using a T40 TORX drive head, turn inside screw to free assembly from engine guard clamp. Dis­card rubber washer.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 to remove saddlebag, side cover and fairing lower on right side of vehicle.
7. Remove the air cleaner and backplate. See Section 4.5
AIR CLEANER, REMOVAL.
8. Remove two allen head socket screws (with lockwashers and flat washers) to release right side front footboard brackets from frame weldment. For best results, approach from left side of vehicle using a 3/8 inch ball allen with extension.
9. Remove exhaust system in two sections as follows:
a. Open two worm drive clamps to release heat shield
over rear header pipe to crossover pipe connection (above starter).
b. Loosen TORCA clamp between rear header pipe
and crossover pipe. Remove Keps nut and pull bracket tab and stud from slots in TORCA clamp and exhaust support bracket.
c. Spray PB Blaster or other suitable penetrating oil in
and around joint between rear header pipe and crossover pipe.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, remove two bolts (with
lockwashers) to detach left side muffler from the lower saddlebag support rail.
e. Pull and twist on crossover pipe to remove left side
exhaust from vehicle. For best results, be sure to allow sufficient time for the penetrating oil to work.
f. Remove TORCA clamp assembly from crossover
pipe and discard.
See Section 4.7 FUEL TANK (CARBU-
See Section 9.4 FUEL TANK (FUEL
NOTE
To ensure sealing integrity of TORCA clamps and prevent the possibility of leakage, Harley-Davidson recommends that TORCA assemblies be discarded and replaced each time they are removed.
g. Moving to right side of vehicle, open two worm drive
clamps and release heat shield from front header pipe. Using an impact wrench with long 1/2 inch swivel socket, remove two exhaust flange nuts to release front header pipe from studs of front cylin­der head. Slide exhaust flange down header pipe to improve clearance around exhaust port.
h. Open two worm drive clamps and release heat
shield from rear header pipe. Remove two exhaust flange nuts to release rear header pipe from studs of rear cylinder head.
i. Open two worm drive clamps to release heat shield
over front header pipe to rear header pipe connec­tion (outboard of transmission side door).
j. Remove bolt (with flat washer and locknut) from
transmission exhaust bracket clamp on front header pipe. Use a channel lock to open clamp and then remove from header pipe and transmission exhaust bracket.
k. Remove two bolts (with lockwashers) to detach right
side muffler from the lower saddlebag support rail.
l. Depressing rear brake pedal, remove right side
exhaust from vehicle.
m. Remove and discard gaskets from front and rear
exhaust ports.
10. Remove connections to carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
Carbureted:
a. Moving to left side of vehicle, pull external latch out-
ward and use rocking motion to remove electrical connector from manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor at top of intake manifold.
b. Locate the fuel enrichener knob under the left side
of the fuel tank, and loosen hex nut at backside of mounting bracket. Slide cable assembly free of slot in mounting bracket.
Fuel Injected:
a. Standing on right side of vehicle, remove idle air
control and manifold absolute pressure sensor con­nectors. Pull external latch(es) outward and use rocking motion to separate pin and socket halves.
b. Depress wire form to remove electrical connectors
from front and rear fuel injectors.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-21
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8316
Figure 3-11. Remove Ignition Coil Bracket From Vehicle
c. Remove throttle position sensor and intake air tem-
perature sensor connectors.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, pull back boot to
reveal engine temperature sensor at back of front cylinder. Pull external latch outward and remove connector. Cut cable strap to release conduit from horn bracket.
e. Tu ck free ends of EFI wire harness under main wire
harness on frame backbone to keep conduit and connectors out of the way.
11. Remove idle and throttle control cables as follows:
Carbureted:
Using a needle nose pliers, carefully pull idle cable barrel from upper inboard hole in throttle wheel. Pull throttle cable barrel from remaining hole. Release idle and throttle cables from guides in throttle cable bracket.
Fuel Injected:
Using a needle nose pliers, carefully pull idle cable barrel from upper hole in throttle wheel. Pull throttle cable barrel from lower hole. Using slots, release idle and throttle cables from guides in throttle cable bracket.
12. Free idle and throttle control cables from J-clamp fas­tened to right side of frame backbone. Move cables up and out of the way.
13. If equipped with cruise control, remove E-clip from sleeve at end of cruise cable housing. Using slot, remove cable housing from cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Push the plastic end fitting on the cruise cable to the outboard side to release from wheel pin. Move cable up and out of the way.
14. Moving to left side of vehicle, pull boots on spark plug cables to release from spark plug and ignition coil tow­ers. Release cables from three cable clips at bottom of frame backbone.
15. Remove spark plugs.
16. Pull external latch outward and use rocking motion to remove electrical connector from left side of ignition coil.
17. Pull sides of ignition coil bracket outward to remove from bosses of front fuel tank mount. See Figure 3-11.
18. Moving to right side of vehicle, remove two allen head socket screws to release oil hose cover.
19. Using a side cutters, cut and remove clamps on engine side of oil hoses. Pull hoses from crankcase fittings.
20. Cut and remove clamp on breather hose behind rear lifter cover. Pull hose from crankcase fitting and tuck behind transmisson to engine flange to keep out of the way.
21. Remove the voltage regulator. See Section 8.9 VOLT-
AGE REGULATOR, REMOVAL.
22. To release stator cable conduit, remove P-clip from left side stud on lower frame crossmember. Remove P-clip from cable conduit. Draw stator connector and cable conduit to rear of engine stabilizer link and then up to area in front of primary chaincase.
23. Depress tangs inside socket housing and back out sock­ets through wire end of connector. Proceed as follows:
a. Looking into the socket housing, take note of the
cavity on each side of the terminal.
b. Gently insert pick (Snap-On TT600-3) into the cavity
about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) or until it stops, and pivot the side of the pick toward the terminal body. Repeat step on other cavity. See Figure 3-12.
c. Gently tug on cable to pull terminal from chamber. If
terminal is still locked, one or both tangs are not fully depressed. Repeat steps 24(b) and 24(c) as necessary.
d. Repeat procedure to release second terminal.
f1911x8x
Pick
Figure 3-12. Remove Socket Terminals
From Stator/Voltage Regulator Connector
3-22 2004 Touring: Engine
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1CAUTION
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24. Remove conduit from stator cables. For best results, pull one cable and socket terminal through conduit at a time. Ta pe cables to crankcase so that they are out of the way and will not be pinched or cut during engine removal.
25. Remove crankshaft position sensor and oil pressure switch/sender as follows:
a. Locate crankshaft position sensor connector [79], 2-
place Mini-Deutsch, next to oil filter mount. Depress button on socket terminal side and pull apart pin and socket halves.
b. Remove allen head socket screw to free crank posi-
tion sensor mount from crankcase. Pull sensor from bore. Remove O-ring from groove on sensor body. Discard O-ring.
Figure 3-13. Engine/Transmission Bench Stand
(Part No. HD-42310)
c. Locate the oil pressure switch/sender at the front
right side of the crankcase. On FLHR/C/S models, pull elbow from post of oil pressure switch. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, pull external latch out­ward and use rocking motion to remove Packard connector from oil pressure sender.
d. On FLHR/C/S models, use a 15/16 inch Open End
Crow Foot (Snap-On FC30B) to remove oil pressure switch from crankcase. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, use 1-1/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC34A) to remove oil pressure sender.
26. Coil main harness conduit and allow to hang below lower frame tube at front of vehicle. If harness is not moved out of the way, it may be damaged during engine removal.
27. Place jack under oil pan at rear of vehicle. Using a block of wood to distribute pressure across the length of the casting, raise the jack until firm contact is made with the bottom of the oil pan.
28. Standing on left side of vehicle, remove two hex head bolts (with flat washers) to release top engine mounting bracket from cylinder heads.
29. Remove elbow terminals from spade contacts at back of horn. Release wire harness conduit from J-clamp.
30. Moving to right side of vehicle, turn hex head bolt to release stabilizer link from frame weldment.
35. Cover lower frame tubes (both left and right side) with foam padding or bubble pack. Split loom conduit or a half shell of PVC tubing will also produce good results. Pro­tection is necessary to prevent nicks or paint damage to left frame tube and chafing, cutting or kinking of the brake line, wire cables and conduit at the top of the right frame tube.
36. Cover rocker covers of front and rear cylinders with foam padding or bubble pack.
The engine weighs approximately 165 pounds (74.8 kg). Use a suitable lifting device, if necessary. Exercise cau­tion to avoid personal injury.
37. Move engine forward far enough to clear two ring dowels in lower flange of transmission housing. Raise engine and remove from right side of vehicle. Exercise caution to avoid contact with rear brake master cylinder reservoir and brake line, wire cables and conduit at top of lower frame tube.
38. Using the TWIN CAM 88 CRADLE (HD-42310-2), install engine in BENCH STAND (HD-42310) or ROLLING STAND (HD-43646A). See Figure 3-13.
39. Remove intake manifold/carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
31. Remove horn, top engine mounting bracket and stabi­lizer link as an assembly.
32. Remove four bolts (with flat washers) to free rear of crankcase from transmission housing. Loosen and remove bolts in a crosswise pattern.
33. Remove two bolts (with flat washers) to free front of crankcase from front engine mounting bracket.
34. Wrap rear master cylinder reservoir with foam padding or bubble pack.
a. Remove right side allen head socket screws from
front and rear cylinder head flange adapters. For best results, use a long 1/4 inch ball allen head socket with end driver 4 inches long.
b. Moving to opposite side of vehicle, just loosen left
side allen head socket screws from flange adapters. Slots in flanges make removal of left side screws unnecessary.
c. Remove intake manifold/carburetor or induction
module from right side of vehicle.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-23
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40. Remove the rotor as follows:
1CAUTION
The high-output rotor is used on fuel injected vehicles, FLHR/C/S/I excepted. Since the high-output rotor con­tains magnets that are considerably more powerful than those used on low-output rotors, the ROTOR REMOVER/ INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE (HD-
41771) must be used to prevent parts damage and possi­ble hand injury during removal and installation.
High Output Rotor - 45 Amp
a. Verify that threads of engine sprocket shaft are
clean, especially of old Loctite material. Thread the Shaft Protector Sleeve onto the shaft.
b. Tu rn thumbscrews of Rotor Remover/Installer into
threaded holes in rotor face.
c. Rotate handle of forcing screw in a clockwise direc-
tion to remove rotor from shaft.
Low Output Rotor - 38 Amp
CAUTION
Do not strike or drop rotor. Damage to magnet adhesive may result in rotor failure.
a. Fabricate wire hooks or use the ends of two allen
wrenches to carefully pull rotor at holes in rotor face.
b. Pull rotor from stator. Magnets in rotor cause some
resistance during removal.
41. Remove stator as follows: a. Using a T27 TORX drive head, remove four screws
to free stator from crankcase. Discard screws.
b. Using point of awl, carefully lift capped rib on grom-
met away from crankcase and then insert into bore between grommet and casting. See Figure 3-14. Tilt awl slightly squirting isopropyl alcohol or glass cleaner into opening. Repeat this step at one or two other locations around grommet.
c. While pushing on capped rib from outside of crank-
case, draw grommet through bore by pulling on cable stop with needle nose pliers. Rock grommet back and forth to facilitate removal, if necessary. Exercise caution to avoid damaging ribs on grom­met if stator is to be reused.
42. Remove the oil filter as follows: a. Obtain the OIL FILTER WRENCH (HD-42311). The
tool allows easy removal of the oil filter without risk of damage to the crankshaft position sensor or cable.
b. Place the jaws of the wrench over the oil filter with
the tool oriented vertically.
Capped
Rib
Awl
Stator
Opening
f1634x8x
Figure 3-14. Remove Grommet From Crankcase
c. Using a 3/8 inch drive with a 4 inch extension, turn
wrench in a counterclockwise direction until loose. Do not use with air tools.
NOTE
Use OIL FILTER WRENCH (HD-44067) if HD-42311 is not available.
43. Remove oil filter mount as follows:
a. Carefully bend corners on lockplate away from
heads of top and bottom bolts in oil filter mount. Remove top and bottom bolts, lockplate and flat washers. Discard lockplate.
b. Remove middle bolt with flat washer to free filter
mount from crankcase.
c. Remove two O-rings from inboard side of filter
mount. Discard O-rings.
NOTES
Remove and clean the oil pan under any of the following con­ditions:
Metal debris is found in the engine or crankcase.
Oil contamination is suspected.
A complete engine overhaul is being performed as a
result of a major engine failure.
The engine is being replaced with a new one.
44. To remove the oil pan, proceed as follows:
3-24 2004 Touring: Engine
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RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE
f2025x3x
Strap
Strap
Frame
Backbone
Mainshaft
Hook
Rubber Coated
Transmission
Bracket
f1791x2x
Hook
Rubber Coated
Figure 3-15. Secure Transmission Using Transmission Exhaust Bracket and Mainshaft
a. Use a tie down strap to hold the transmission. Lay
strap over frame backbone placing one rubber coated hook through the transmission exhaust bracket on the right side of the vehicle and the other around the mainshaft on the left. Using buckle, tighten strap until taut. See Figure 3-15.
b. Lower and remove jack under oil pan.
c. Locate oil drain plug at front of the oil pan. See Fig-
ure 3-16. Remove the plug and allow oil to drain
completely.
d. Locate transmission drain plug on right side of the
oil pan. See Figure 3-16. Remove the plug and drain the transmission lubricant into a suitable con­tainer.
e. Alternately loosen and then remove the twelve allen
head socket screws to release the oil pan from the transmission housing. Follow the pattern shown in
Figure 3-16.
f. Remove gasket from oil pan and discard.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-25
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INSTALLING ENGINE IN CHASSIS 3.8

PROCEDURE

NOTE
If oil pan was drained and removed, start at step 1. If oil pan was neither drained nor removed, move to step 13.
1. Coat gasket surface of oil pan with a thin coat of HYLO­MAR® gasket sealer.
2. Place gasket on oil pan and allow sealer to dry until tacky.
3. Position oil pan under transmission housing and start the twelve allen head socket screws. Tighten each screw about two turns after initial thread engagement.
4. Inspect the oil pan gasket to verify that it is properly posi­tioned.
5. Alternately tighten the oil pan screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12 Nm) following the pattern shown in Figure 3-16.
6. Remove any foreign material from magnet of oil drain plug. Also check the O-ring for tears, cuts or general deterioration. Replace as necessary.
7. Install the engine oil drain plug in front of the oil pan. Tighten plug to 14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm).
8. Remove the transmission filler plug from the clutch release cover on the right side of the transmission case. Check the O-ring for tears, cuts or general deterioration. Replace as necessary.
9. Remove any foreign material from magnet of transmis­sion drain plug. Also check the O-ring for tears, cuts or general deterioration. Replace as necessary.
10. Install the transmission lubricant drain plug in right side of the oil pan and tighten to 14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm).
1WARNING1WARNING
When draining or adding lubricant, do not allow dirt, debris or other contaminants to enter the transmission case. Exercise caution so that lubricant does not contact rear wheel, tire and brake components. Such contact can adversely affect traction and may lead to loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury.
11. Fill the transmission with 20-24 oz. (590-710 ml) of transmission lubricant or until the lubricant level on the dipstick of the filler plug is at the F(ULL) mark with the motorcycle in a level, upright position and the filler plug resting on the threads.
Use only Harley-Davidson TRANSMISSION LUBRI­CANT: Part No.’s 99892-84 (quart), 98853-96 (case of quarts), 99891-84 (gallon), or 98852-96 (case of gal­lons).
7
5
RIGHT
SIDE
11
1
Transmission
Drain Plug
9
3
2
4
10
LEFT
SIDE
6
12
Engine Oil Drain Plug
f1677x3x
8
Figure 3-16. Oil Pan Torque Sequence
12. Install the transmission filler plug/dipstick in the clutch
release cover. Tighten the plug to 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm).
13. Place jack under oil pan at rear of vehicle. Using a block of wood to distribute pressure across the length of the casting, raise the jack until firm contact is made with the bottom of the oil pan.
14. Remove strap from frame backbone disengaging hooks from mainshaft and transmission exhaust bracket.
15. Install spark plugs in front and rear cylinder heads. Install the plugs finger tight and then tighten to 12-18 ft­lbs (16-24 Nm).
16. Install oil filter mount as follows: a. Install two new O-rings on inboard side of filter
mount.
b. Place flat washers in recessed bolt holes at top and
bottom of filter mount flange. c. Align holes in lockplate with holes in flat washers. d. Slide two hex head bolts through lockplate, flat
washers and filter mount flange. Apply Loctite
Medium Strength Threadlocker 243 (blue) to
threads of installed bolts.
CAUTION
To avoid cross threading tapped holes, exercise care when starting hex head bolts in crankcase.
e. Align holes in filter mount flange with holes in crank-
case and tighten bolts until snug.
3-26 2004 Touring: Engine
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1CAUTION
1CAUTION
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f. Install flat washer on remaining bolt, apply Loctite
Medium Strength Threadlocker 243 (blue) to threads, and install in middle hole of filter mount flange.
g. Starting at the top, alternately tighten three hex
head bolts to 12-16 ft-lbs (16-22 Nm). Re-tighten middle bolt when done.
h. To prevent rotation, carefully bend outside corners
of lockplate against heads of top and bottom bolts.
17. Clean oil filter mount flange of any old gasket material.
Lubricate gasket of new oil filter with clean engine oil and install on filter mount. Hand tighten oil filter 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket first contacts filter mounting surface. Do NOT use OIL FILTER WRENCH for oil filter installation.
NOTE
Use of the Premium 10 micron synthetic media oil filter is highly recommended, Part No. 63798-99 (Chrome) or 63731­99 (Black).
18. Install stator as follows:
a. From inside crankcase, feed socket terminals and
stator cable through hole in crankcase.
b. Thoroughly lubricate grommet with isopropyl alco-
hol or glass cleaner. To avoid leakage, ribs of grom­met must be free of dirt and oily residue.
c. Carefully grasp cable stop behind grommet with a
needle nose pliers. Push grommet into crankcase bore while carefully pulling on outside cable. Instal­lation is complete when cable stop contacts casting and capped rib of grommet exits crankcase bore.
The high-output rotor is used on fuel injected vehicles,
FLHR/C/S/I excepted. Since the high-output rotor con-
tains magnets that are considerably more powerful than
those used on low-output rotors, the ROTOR REMOVER/
INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE (HD-
41771) must be used to prevent parts damage and possi-
ble hand injury during removal and installation.
High Output Rotor - 45 Amp
a. Install the Shaft Protector Sleeve and Rotor
Remover/Installer, if removed.
NOTE
The Shaft Protector Sleeve not only protects the threads from
the splines of the rotor, but acts as a guide to ensure that the
rotor is properly centered.
b. Center ball on forcing screw in recess at end of
engine sprocket shaft. Rotate the handle of the tool in a counterclockwise direction to ease rotor into position over stator.
c. Loosen thumbscrews and remove Rotor Remover/
Installer. Remove Shaft Protector Sleeve.
d. Install the shaft extension on the engine sprocket
shaft. (No alternator rotor spacer is provided.)
Low Output Rotor - 38 Amp
a. Slide rotor over stator with the concave side
inboard.
d. If necessary, carefully run awl around edge of
capped rib so that it rests flat against seating sur­face on crankcase.
CAUTION
Do not reuse T27 TORX screws. The threads of the screws contain a locking compound in pellet form. When the screw is started, the pellet breaks releasing the com­pound.
e. Using a T27 TORX drive head, install four new
screws to fasten stator to crankcase. Alternately tighten screws to 55-75 in-lbs (6.2-8.5 Nm).
f. Coil stator connector cable lengths so that they are
out of the way and will not be pinched or cut during engine installation.
19. Install the rotor as follows:
When installing rotor, keep fingers away from edge that
mates with crankcase. Since rotor is magnetized, as it
nears the crankcase it may be pulled in with consider-
able force, resulting in pinched fingers or other hand
injury.
b. Install the 0.020 inch (0.508 mm) thick alternator
rotor spacer and the shaft extension on the engine sprocket shaft.
20. Install intake manifold/carburetor or induction module. Proceed as follows:
a. With the counterbore facing outward, slide cylinder
head flange adapters onto outlet ports of intake manifold/induction module. The flange adapters are not interchangeable. Look next to the slotted bolt hole for a stamp that indicates F(ront) and R(ear) cylinder.
b. Place a new seal in each flange adapter with the
beveled side in against the counterbore.
2004 Touring: Engine 3-27
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f1684x3x
2
4
RIGHT
SIDE
3
1
Figure 3-17. Transmission Housing to Crankcase
Torque Sequence
c. Standing on right side of engine, slide intake mani-
fold/induction module toward installed position so that open-ended slots on flange adapters begin to engage allen head socket screws loosely installed on left side.
d. Align fixed holes in flange adapters with those in
cylinder heads and start allen head socket screws. For best results, use a long 1/4 inch ball allen head socket with end driver 4 inches long.
e. Use the air cleaner backplate or INDUCTION SYS-
TEM ALIGNMENT BRACKET (P&A Part No. 40054-01) to properly locate carburetor/induction module. Proceed as follows:
Backplate: Install two breather bolts to fasten back­plate to front and rear cylinder heads. Install three T27 TORX screws to secure backplate to face of carburetor/induction module.
Alignment bracket: Fitting pins on inboard side into holes in face of carburetor/induction module, install two breather bolts to fasten bracket to front and rear cylinder heads.
f. Tighten allen head socket screw in fixed holes of
flange adapters until snug. Moving to left side of engine, tighten screws in slotted holes to 96-144 in- lbs (10.9-16.3 Nm).
g. Remove breather bolts and T27 TORX screws to
remove backplate, if installed.
h. Tighten allen head socket screws in fixed holes of
flange adapters to 96-144 in-lbs (10.9-16.3 Nm).
i. Remove breather bolts to remove alignment
bracket, if installed.
21. Cover rocker covers of front and rear cylinders with foam padding or bubble pack.
22. Cover lower frame tubes (both left and right side) with foam padding or bubble pack. Split loom conduit or a half shell of PVC tubing will also produce good results. Pro­tection is necessary to prevent nicks or paint damage to left frame tube and chafing, cutting or kinking of the brake line, wire cables and conduit at the top of the right frame tube.
23. Wrap rear master cylinder reservoir with foam padding or bubble pack.
24. Remove engine from BENCH STAND (HD-42310) or ROLLING STAND (HD-43646A) and set on floor on right side of chassis.
1CAUTION
The engine weighs approximately 165 pounds (74.8 kg). Use a suitable lifting device, if necessary. Exercise cau­tion to avoid personal injury.
25. Raise engine and install in chassis from right side of vehicle setting front of crankcase onto front engine mounting bracket. Engine must be set forward far enough to clear two ring dowels in lower flange of trans­mission housing. Exercise caution to avoid contact with rear brake master cylinder reservoir and brake line, wire cables and conduit at top of lower right frame tube.
26. Move engine rearward to fully engage two ring dowels in lower flange of transmission housing.
27. Secure the engine as follows: a. Hand tighten four bolts (with flat washers) to secure
transmission housing to rear of crankcase.
b. Hand tighten two bolts (with flat washers) to secure
front of crankcase to front engine mounting bracket.
c. Tighten the four transmission housing to crankcase
bolts to 15 ft-lbs (20.3 Nm) in the sequence shown in Figure 3-17.
NOTE
For best results, use Open End Crowfoot (Snap-On FC018) on upper left and upper right transmission housing to crankcase bolts.
d. Following the same sequence, final tighten the four
transmission housing to crankcase bolts to 30-35 ft­lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm).
e. Tighten the two crankcase to front engine mounting
bracket bolts to 33-38 ft-lbs (44.8-51.5 Nm).
28. Install horn, top engine mounting bracket and stabilizer link as an assembly. Proceed as follows:
a. Moving to right side of vehicle, turn hex head bolt to
secure stabilizer link to frame weldment. Tighten bolt to 18-22 ft-lbs (24-30 Nm).
3-28 2004 Touring: Engine
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X-Acto Knife
Tang
f1913x8x
Figure 3-18. Bend Tangs Outward on Socket Terminals
of Stator/Voltage Regulator Connector
b. Install elbow terminals onto spade contacts at back
of horn. Capture wire harness conduit in J-clamp.
c. Standing on left side of vehicle, install two hex head
bolts (with flat washers) to secure top engine mounting bracket to front and rear cylinder heads. Alternately tighten bolts to 35-40 ft-lbs (48-54 Nm).
29. Lower and remove jack under oil pan.
30. Install conduit onto stator cables. For best results, feed one socket terminal and cable through conduit at a time.
31. Install sockets into stator connector as follows: a. Using a fingernail or a thin flat blade, like that on an
X-Acto knife, carefully bend the tangs outward away from each terminal body. See Figure 3-18.
b. Feed each socket into wire end of stator connector
until it “clicks” in place.
c. Verify that sockets will not back out of chambers. A
slight tug on each cable will confirm that it is locked.
32. Install P-clip on stator cable conduit approximately five inches (127 mm) from socket housing. Slide P-clip over left side stud on lower frame crossmember. Properly ori­ented, P-clip is positioned at front of stud with the open side up and angled so that it is inline with the lower rail of the engine guard.
33. Uncoil main harness conduit and allow to hang below lower frame tube at front of vehicle.
34. Install oil pressure switch/sender and crankshaft position sensor as follows:
a. Start oil pressure switch/sender into crankcase bore
at the front right side of the crankcase. On FLHR/C/ S models, use a 15/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC30B) to tighten oil pressure switch to 96-120 in-lbs (11-14 Nm). On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, use 1-1/16 inch Open End Crow Foot (Snap-On FC34A) to tighten oil pressure sender to same torque.
b. On FLHR/C/S models, install elbow on post of oil
pressure switch. On FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, install Packard connector to oil pressure sender .
c. Install new O-ring in groove on crank position sen-
sor body. Apply a very thin film of clean H-D 20W50 engine oil to O-ring before installation.
d. Push sensor into bore aligning hole in sensor mount
with hole in spot face. Install allen head socket screw (1/4 x 1 inch) and tighten to 90-120 in-lbs (10.2-13.6 Nm).
e. Locate crankshaft position sensor connector [79], 2-
place Mini-Deutsch, next to oil filter mount. Mate pin and socket halves of connector.
35. Install the voltage regulator. See Section 8.9 VOLTAGE
REGULATOR, INSTALLATION.
36. Slide new clamp onto free end of breather hose behind rear lifter cover. Install hose onto crankcase fitting. Crimp clamp using HOSE CLAMP PLIERS (HD-97087­65B).
37. Slide new clamps onto free ends of oil hoses. Install hoses onto crankcase fittings. Crimp clamps.
38. Install two allen head socket screws to secure oil hose cover to transmission and engine housings. Longer screw goes to engine housing. Alternately tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm).
39. Install ignition coil and spark plug cables as follows:
a. With the coil towers facing rear of vehicle, hold igni-
tion coil and bracket at bottom of frame backbone. Pull sides of bracket outward and install on bosses of front fuel tank mount. See Figure 3-11.
b. Install electrical connector on left side of ignition
coil.
c. Install spark plug cable to front cylinder onto left
side coil tower. Verify that spark plug cable is cap­tured in double-sided cable clip at bottom left side of frame backbone. Install new cable clip on T-stud if damaged or missing.
d. Install spark plug cable to rear cylinder onto right
side coil tower. Verify that spark plug cable is cap­tured in two single-sided cable clips at bottom left side of frame backbone. Install new cable clips on T­studs if damaged or missing.
40. If equipped with cruise control, slide groove in cruise cable end fitting over cap of wheel pin. Push on end fit­ting until it snaps in place. Using slot, slip cruise cable housing into cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Install new E-clip on sleeve at end of cruise cable housing.
41. Route idle and throttle control cables through J-clamp fastened to right side of frame backbone.
42. Install idle and throttle control cables as follows:
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Carbureted: Install sleeve on throttle cable housing into shorter cable guide in throttle cable bracket. Drawing throttle cable downward, fit barrel end into lower out­board hole in throttle wheel. Install sleeve and spring on idle cable housing into longer cable guide inserting bar­rel end into upper inboard hole in throttle wheel.
Induction Module: Install sleeve on throttle cable hous­ing into shorter cable guide at top of throttle cable bracket. Drawing throttle cable downward, fit barrel end into lower hole in throttle wheel. Install sleeve and spring on idle cable housing into longer cable guide at bottom of throttle cable bracket inserting barrel end into upper hole in throttle wheel.
43. Tighten cables as necessary to keep barrel ends from dislodging. Verify that cables are seated in channel of throttle wheel. Verify operation by turning throttle grip and observing cable action.
44. Install connections to carburetor or induction module. Standing on left side of vehicle, proceed as follows:
Carbureted:
a. Moving to left side of vehicle, install electrical con-
nector to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor at top of intake manifold.
b. Slide threaded portion of enrichener cable into slot
of mounting bracket. Flat on threads must face rear of vehicle for script on enrichener knob to be right side up. With the external tooth lockwasher and hex nut positioned on the inboard side of the mounting bracket, tighten hex nut to 20-35 in-lbs (2.3-4.0 Nm).
Fuel Injected:
a. Install electrical connectors on fuel injectors. b. Install manifold absolute pressure sensor and idle
air control connectors.
c. Install intake air temperature sensor and throttle
position sensor connectors.
d. Moving to left side of vehicle, install connector to
engine temperature sensor at back of front cylinder. Pull boot over sensor to keep out dirt and debris. Install new cable strap to secure connector conduit to horn bracket.
45. Install the primary chaincase. See Section 6.5 PRI-
MARY CHAINCASE, INSTALLATION, steps 1-29.
46. Install exhaust system as follows: a. Install new gaskets in both the front and rear cylin-
der head exhaust ports (with the tapered side out).
b. Place right side exhaust into position on vehicle and
start two exhaust flange nuts to secure front header pipe to studs of front cylinder head.
c. Start two bolts (with lockwashers) to secure right
side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
d. Start two exhaust flange nuts to secure rear header
pipe to studs of rear cylinder head.
e. Engaging transmission exhaust bracket, capture
front header pipe in transmission exhaust bracket clamp. Use a channel lock to close clamp, if neces­sary. Finger tighten clamp bolt (with flat washer and locknut).
NOTE
To ensure sealing integrity of TORCA clamps and prevent the possibility of leakage, Harley-Davidson recommends that TORCA assemblies be discarded and replaced each time they are removed.
f. Moving to left side of vehicle, slide new TORCA
clamp assembly onto crossover pipe.
g. Twist and push left side exhaust onto crossover
pipe.
h. Start two bolts (with lockwashers) to secure left side
muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
i. Returning to left side of vehicle, position TORCA
clamp between rear header pipe and crossover pipe. Fit bracket tab into slot of TORCA clamp engaging stud in slot of exhaust support bracket. Start Keps nut on stud.
CAUTION
Verify that the exhaust pipes do not contact the vehicle frame or any mounted components. Contact will cancel the effect of the rubber isolation mounts and transmit vibration to the rider via the vehicle frame.
j. Tighten the exhaust system as follows:
Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head
exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
Tighten the transmission exhaust bracket clamp bolt
to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.8 Nm).
Tighten the two bolts (with lockwashers) to fasten
right side muffler to lower saddlebag support rail.
Tighten the two bolts (with lockwashers) to fasten
left side muffler to lower saddlebag support rail.
Ver ify that all exhaust pipes are in alignment and do
not contact the vehicle frame or mounted compo­nents.
Tighten the TORCA clamp between the rear header
pipe and crossover pipe to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm).
Tighten Keps nut securing bracket tab to exhaust
support bracket.
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COLD CHECK
HOT CHECK
Figure 3-19. Engine Oil Dipstick
CAUTION
Verify that the heat shields do not contact the vehicle frame or any mounted components. Contact will cancel the effect of the rubber isolation mounts and transmit vibration to the rider via the vehicle frame.
NOTE
Position worm drive clamps so that screws are on the out­board side in the most accessible position.
k. Open worm drive clamps and install heat shields as
follows:
Over front header pipe (below exhaust port).
Over rear header pipe (below exhaust port).
Over front header pipe to rear header pipe connec-
tion (outboard of transmission side door).
Over rear header pipe to crossover pipe connection
(above starter).
l. Position each worm drive clamp so that screw is on
the outboard side in the most accessible position and then tighten to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm).
47. Insert two allen head socket screws (with lockwashers and flat washers) through frame weldment into right side front footboard brackets. For best results, approach from left side of vehicle using a 3/8 inch ball allen with exten­sion. Alternately tighten screws to 30-35 ft-lbs (41-48 Nm).
48. Install the backplate and air cleaner. See Section 4.5
AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION.
49. On Ultra models, place fairing lower into position on right side of vehicle. Holding T40 TORX screw inside fairing lower, install new rubber washer, clamp and locknut to attach fairing bottom to engine guard. Do not tighten locknut.
50. Align barbed studs in right side cover with grommets in frame downtubes and push firmly into place (no tools required).
51. Install right side saddlebag. See Section 2.25 SADDLE-
BAG, INSTALLATION.
f1254b3x
52. Repeat steps 49-51 to install side cover, saddlebag and fairing lower on left side of vehicle.
53. Install the fuel tank. Proceed as follows: Carbureted: See Section 4.7 FUEL TANK (CARBU-
RETED), INSTALLATION (AFTER COMPLETE REMOVAL), FLHT/C, or FLHR/S.
Fuel Injected: See Section 9.4 FUEL TANK (FUEL
INJECTED), INSTALLATION (AFTER COMPLETE REMOVAL), FLHT/C/U/I, FLTRI, or FLHR/C/S/I.
54. On Ultra models, hold locknut at bottom of fairing lower, and using a T40 TORX drive head, turn inside screw to fasten assembly to engine guard clamp. Tighten screw to 90-100 in-lbs (10.2-11.3 Nm). Repeat step on oppo­site side of vehicle.
55. Adjust idle and throttle control cables as follows: Non-Cruise: See Section 2.21 THROTTLE CABLES
(NON-CRUISE), ADJUSTMENT.
Cruise Equipped: See Section 8.30 CRUISE CON-
TROL (FLHRC, FLTR, FLHTCU), CABLE ADJUST­MENT.
NOTE
If oil pan was not
drained, move to step 60.
56. With vehicle resting on jiffy stand, add 3-1/2 quarts (3.3 liters) engine oil as specified in Ta bl e 3-2. Use the proper grade of oil for the lowest temperature expected before the next oil change.
Table 3-2. Recommended Engine Oils
Harley-Davidson
Type
HD Multi-grade
HD Multi-grade
HD Regular Heavy
HD Extra Heavy
Viscosity
SAE
10W40
SAE
20W50
SAE
50
SAE
60
Harley-
Davidson
Rating
HD 360
HD 360
HD 360
HD 360
Lowest
Ambient
Temperature
Below 40˚F
(4˚C)
Above 40˚F
(4˚C)
Above 60˚F
(16˚C)
Above 80˚F
(27˚C)
Cold Weather
Starts Below
50˚F (10˚C)
Excellent
Good
Poor
Poor
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CAUTION
Oil level cannot be accurately measured on a cold engine. For preride inspection, with motorcycle leaning on jiffy stand on level ground, oil should register on dip­stick between arrows when engine is cold. Do NOT add oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on a COLD
engine.
57. Perform engine oil level COLD CHECK as follows:
a. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
b. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil. Oil
level should register between the two arrows on the dipstick. See Figure 3-19. If oil level is at or below the lower arrow, add only enough oil to bring the level between the two arrows on the dipstick.
58. Perform engine oil level HOT CHECK as follows:
a. Ride vehicle until engine is at normal operating tem-
perature.
b. With the vehicle resting on the jiffy stand on level
ground, allow engine to idle for 1-2 minutes. Turn engine off.
c. Wipe off the dipstick and insert it back into the oil
pan with the plug pushed completely into the fill spout.
d. Remove the dipstick and note the level of the oil.
Add only enough oil to bring the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick. See Figure 3-19. Do not over­fill.
59. Start engine and carefully check for oil leaks around drain plug and oil filter.
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