Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this
kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at
the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by use or modication. In no case
shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of
the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the nal assembly or
material used for nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability
associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
52 in [ 1320 mm]
2
[32.4 dm2]
Weight:
Wing
Loading:
3.6 – 3.75 lbs
[1630–1700 g]
16.5 – 17.2 oz /f t
[50– 52.5 g/dm2]
Radio:4 −Channel with V-Tail Mixing
2
Engine:.40 − .55 cu in [6.5– 9.0 cc]
2-stroke glow
advised to return this kit immediately in new and
unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Quik-V6 Quickie 500 pylon racer. If you’re on a quest
for speed the Quik-V6 is the answer, but the Quik-V6s primary
objective is to be a competitive weapon in AMA 424 or 426
(Sport Quickie or Super Sport Quickie) pylon racing. If you
spend any time reviewing race results on the internet or if
you attend any of the major pylon races you’ll know that
Jim Allen is one of the premier pilots. Jim is the designer
of the Quik-V6 (as well as the Great Planes Proud Bird EF1
pylon racer). You can read all about Jim’s interesting and
insightful development history of the Quik-V6 (and the origin
of the name) on the back cover. Also make it a point to read
Jim’s regimen on i ght tr imming fo r pyl on rac ing o n pag e 34.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to
the Quik-V6 ARF visit the Great Planes web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the
Quik-V6. If there is new technical information or changes
to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper
left corner of the page.
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join! The
AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership
rights and interests and is required to y at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to
avoid ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid ying near
or over groups of people.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Protect Your Model, Yourself & Others…
Follow These Important Safety Precautions
1. Your Quik-V6 should not be considered a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like
a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities,
the Quik-V6, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibl y cause injur y to yourself or spectators and
damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or un yable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4.
You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition,
a correctly sized engine, and other components as
speci ed in this instruction manual. All components must
be correctly installed so that the model operates correctly
on the ground and in the air. You must check the operation
of the model and all components before every ight.
5.
If you are not an experienced pilot or have not own this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
2
your rst ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
TRANSMITTER
Futaba 4-channel on 2.4 GHz w/V-tail mixing
2S 1300mAh LiFe receiver battery
(HCAM6411)
FUTM4350
FUTM4190
(3) Futaba 9670SV
(FUTM0725)
(3) Futaba 9650
(FUTM0260)
(1) Futaba 3172SV
(FUTM0125)
(1) Futaba 3102
(FUTM0034)
R6303SB Micro
3-18ch (FUTL7661)
Futaba R617FS
FASST (FUTL7627)
(1) 6" dual servo
extension (FUTM4135)
(3) 6" (TACM2090)
RUDDERVATOR,
AILERON SERVOS
THROTTLE/
FUEL-CUT SERVO
RECEIVER
SERVO
EXTENSIONS
RECEIVER
BATTERY
ON-OFF SWITCH
SBC-1 CHANNEL
SETTING TOOL*
*Not required if using a Futaba transmitter with Serial Interface
S.Bus
Non-S.Bus
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
6. While this ARF has been ight-tested to exceed normal
use, if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps
to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting
hardware more suitable for the increased stress.
We, as the ARF manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested ARF and instructions, but ultimately the quality and yability of your nished model
depends on how you assemble it; therefore, we cannot
in any way guarantee the performance of your completed
model, and no representations are expressed or implied
as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
REMEMBER: Take your tim e and fo llow t he inst r u c t ions
to end up w ith a w ell-bu i lt mod e l that i s straigh t and t r u e.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
NOTE: Some of the items speci ed are in accordance
with current AMA/NMPRA rules. If you plan on racing your
Quik-V6, be certain to consult the rules for the latest speci ed
equipment to make sure your plane is in compliance.
Radio and Servos
Most of the specialty pylon racing items for AMA 426
(Super Sport Quickie), including the Jett brand engine and
muf er, J ett ba ck plate e ngine moun t, Jet t remote un iver s a l
needle valve, Tettra fuel tanks, Super Tanker fueler, etc.,
are available on the internet from Jett Engineering Inc.
and/or Darrol Cady Racing.
Engine and Engine Accessories
For sport flying:
❍ O.S. 46AXII ABL w/Muffler (OSMG0548) OR O.S.
.55AX ABL 2 w/muffler (OSMG0557)
For AMA 424 (Sport Quickie):
❍ ThunderTiger Pro .40 w/muffler
❍ APC 9 x 6 Sport propeller (APCQ9725)
For AMA 426 (Super Sport Quickie):
❍ Jett Engineering Inc. QJ-1 .40 engine and muffler
❍ Jett back plate mount
❍ Jett remote universal needle valve
❍ Darrol Cady or Sullivan thin-wall fuel tubing
(SULQ1205)
❍ Spare glow plugs (Merlin 1125A Red most
common)
❍ Jett Super Tanker syringe-type fueler
❍ Suitable propellers (APC 8.8 x 8.75 most popular –
APCQ8975)
❍ Bubbless, bladder-type fuel tank (Tettra 6 oz. or
Tettr a 5 . 25 oz.)
❍ Pylon racing-type glow igniter system
❍ Silver solder (STAR2000)
Adhesives, Hardware & Accessories
Other than common hobby tools here is a list of the rest
of the items required:
❍ Z-bend pliers (HCAR2000)
❍ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6043)
❍ Dave Brown carbon ber tape (DAVR2000)
❍ Thin CA (GPMR6001)
❍ Medium CA (GPMR6007)
❍ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❍ CA activator (GPMR6035)
❍ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❍ 1/4" RC foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
❍ 10-24 drill and tap set (or #25 or 5/32" drill and 10-
24 tap)
❍ Spare 10-24 x 1/2" nylon at-head screws (for main
landing gear)
❍ Covering iron (COVR2700)
❍ Cover Sock (COVR2702)
❍ Trim Sealing Iron (COVR2750)
❍ After-run engine oil (GPMP3001)
For optional carbon fiber ruddervator pushrods:
❍ (2) 4mm [5/32"] Midwest carbon ber pushrod
tubes (MIDR5721)
❍ (1) K&S 3/16" aluminum tube (K+SR8104)
On page 7 you’ll see the common practice of reinforcing all
the critical, high-stress joints with llets made from 30-minute
epoxy and chopped carbon ber or berglass. Dave Brown
carbon ber tape is recommended for this (DAVR2000).
3
A covering iron is also required for applying the included
GPMA2550.....Backplate Engine Mount
GPMA2552.....Fuel Tank
GPMA4575.....Fuselage Set
GPMA4576.....Wing
GPMA4577.....Tail Surface Set
GPMA4578.....Landing Gear
GPMA4579.....Servo Hatch
GPMA4580.....Wheel Set
Mo noKote c ove ring over the wood tail c ove r s afte r they have
be e n glu e d into place, a s we ll as t ightening the covering ove r
the entire model in general. The 21st Century Sealing Iron
(COVR2700) and Cover Sock (COVR2702) are recommended.
A Trim Sealing Iron is also helpful (COVR2750).
Glow Plug Igniter
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, inspect the parts to make sure
they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or
are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance
with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting
defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as
they are written in the Kit Contents list.
If you’re a little serious about racing, a racing-type glow plug
igniter system is preferred over the one-piece, integrated
glow-driver/battery unit commonly used for sport ying.
Racing-type glow igniters developed for the ight line
feature a high-capacity battery and a lighted display
that can alert you of the condition of your glow plug and
automatically discontinue power after a prescribed time.
For security and safety, and to relieve stress from the
glow plug, the lightweight clip is connected to the battery/
controller unit via an electrical cord. Pylon racing glow
igniter systems are available from the aforementioned
pylon racing specialty sources.
NOTE: The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
so me te chnic ally- minde d mod elers m ay wish to chec k the se
me a surem ents a nyway. To vi ew this informa tion visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Ph: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Quik-V6 ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical
service can be provided by your hobby dealer or mailorder company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy”. Follow
the instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S.,
Canadian or International dealer.
1. Fuse lage
2. V-Tail
3. Fuel Tank & Hardware
4. Engine Mount
5. Main Landing Gear
6. Main Wheels
7. Hatch Cover
8. Tail Covers
9. Ruddervators
10. MonoKote
11. Wing/Ailerons
12. Wood Parts
13. Hardware
14. Throttle Guide Tube
15. Ruddervator Guide Tubes
16. Fuel Cut Wire
17. Aileron/Throttle Pushrods
18. Ruddervator Pushrods
KIT CONTENTS
1
3
4
12
13
5
4
2
9
6
7
11
8
14
10
15
16
17
18
ASSEMBLE THE MODEL
Preparation
1. Examine the covering over all the parts of the model
❏
to nd wrinkles or areas that are not bonded to the wood
underneath. Where necessary, use a covering iron with
a cover sock to tighten the covering, pushing down on
the iron to bond the covering to the wood. Be thorough—
this procedure can take anywhere from a few minutes to
an hour or so. The optimum temperature for shrinking/
bonding MonoKote is around 320°F – 360°F (which requires
a dial setting of about 350°F – 375°F on the 21st Century
Sealing Iron with a Cover Sock). If the covering bubbles or
blisters, this may indicate too much heat. Allow the area to
cool and don’t hold the iron in one spot for too long. Press
down harder and/or use less heat. A sharp hobby blade
may be used to puncture the bubble in a few areas, but be
careful; if using solution to apply vinyl graphics or trim cut
from MonoKote later, it will wick through the perforations
and cause the wood to swell, causing a minor blemish in
that area. You could always puncture these trouble spots
later after you have applied your graphics.
3. Then, laying the piece into position, gently squeegee
❏
out the solution with a piece of soft balsa. This procedure
removes air bubbles that would otherwise form between
the layers.
4. Allow to dry at least over night before permanently
❏
ironing the trim down—the longer you wait before ironing
the better.
2. When ready to apply graphics, trim colors may be
❏
cut from MonoKote. Applying MonoKote over MonoKote
is best done by spraying the back of the trim piece with
window cleaner. NOTE: If any of your trim graphics cross
the aileron hinge gaps it may be better to apply the graphics
after the hinges have been joined and the hinge gaps have
been sealed as illustrated on page 25.
5. There are several instances during assembly where
❏
epoxy cleanup with denatured alcohol will be necessary.
To conserve whole paper towels and to make cleanup
easier, stack a few paper towels on top of each other and
cut them into small squares as shown. This may seem
ridiculous now, but you’ll thank us later and continue to
keep a supply of paper towel squares on your workbench
from now on!
5
6. Use 30-minute epoxy to fuelproof areas that may be
❏
exposed to exhaust, fuel or cleaning solution (see next page).
8. Also lightly coat the holes in the wing bolt plates and
❏
the holes in the landing gear plate with 30-minute epoxy.
Allow to fully harden before re cutting the holes with a 1024 tap later.
9. Inspect all visible glue joints looking for areas in
❏
the cabin or tail that could use reinforcement. Where
necessary, use a CA applicator to apply thin or medium
CA to any glue joints that don’t look strong.
7. Don’t forget to coat the outside of the landing gear
❏
plate on the bottom of the fuselage. Apply liberally, allow
to soak in, and then remove excess epoxy before it
hardens.
Next, epoxy/carbon ber epoxy llets will be added to
key structural areas in the fuselage. First, we’ll mix up a
batch and apply to the landing gear plate and wing bolt
plates. Then, we’ll repeat the process for the rewall
with a new batch of resin. Separating the job into two
procedures insures plenty of working time before the
epoxy begins to harden.
6
10. Use a toothpick to apply a little petroleum jelly to
❏
the threads in the blind nuts inside the rewall to prevent
excess epoxy from clogging up the threads. (Any material
that remains can also be removed with a 6-32 tap later.)
11. Chop 3" – 4" [80 – 100mm] of Dave Brown carbon
❏
ber tape into 1/8" [3mm] segments.
13. Apply the epoxy/carbon ber llets to the joints
❏
between the fuselage sides and the bottom of the wing
bolt plates and to the landing gear area as shown. You
can dip your nger in denatured alcohol to smooth and
form the llets as you go.
14. Mix up another batch of epoxy/carbon ber. Using
❏
the hole in the rewall for access, apply llets all the way
around the joint of the back of the rewall and the fuselage
sides and top and bottom—don’t worry too much about
getting excess epoxy into the blind nuts in the back of
the rewall—if necessary, a drill and 6-32 tap can be run
through the blind nuts to clean them out later.
12. Mix approximately 1 oz. [30cc] of 30-minute epoxy,
❏
then mix in the chopped carbon ber.
15. After all the epoxy has hardened, clean out the wing
❏
bolt holes and the landing gear bolt holes with 10-24 tap.
7
Install the Ruddervator Servos
1. If using the recommended servos that come with
❏
side tabs, carefully remove the tabs as follows:
A. First, use a razor saw to score or cut most of the
❏
way through the tabs—of course, use extreme care not
to cut into the servo wires where they exit the case!
2. If necessary, enlarge the openings in the servo trays
❏
to t your servos, then test- t the servos—if the cutouts
do require cutting, remove material from the aft end of the
openings.
3. Cut the included
❏
3mm lite-ply strip into
segments and glue
them to the bottom
of the servo trays for
screw doublers.
B. Then, break off the tabs with pliers.
❏
C. Use a stick with sandpaper to remove any
❏
remaining tab material and smooth the edges.
4. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the servo mounting
❏
screws, temporarily mount the servos, remove the screws,
and add a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes. We’ll
remount the servos into the tray later.
5. Test- t, then securely glue the servo trays into the
❏
fuselage.
8
7. Mount the servos. If using the included pushrod wires
❏
(whether as supplied, or with the carbon ber pushrod
tube option), enlarge the holes in the servo wheels with
a .074" drill.
8. Drill the hole for the servo hatch cover screw with a
❏
1/16" [1.6mm] drill.
6. Determine how you are going to actuate the switch
❏
from outside the fuselage. One popular way is the “string
technique” to pull the switch on from one side and off
from the other. Test- t the switch and use a pin to locate
the holes for the string. Use a sharpened brass tube or a
drill to make holes in the fuselage for small plastic tubes
(cut from any kind of spray applicator) glued into position
as a bearing for the holes. Drill a hole in the switch for
the string, then mount the switch with threadlocker on the
threads and connect the string.
9. Fit the hatch cover with a #2 x 3/8" button-head
❏
screw. Remove the screw and hatch, add a few drops of
thin CA to harden the hole and allow to harden.
9
Test Fit the V-Tail
Do not use any glue until instructed to do so—we’re going
to go as far as possible tting up the V-tail and hooking
up the pushrods before permanently gluing anything in.
1. Temporarily thread the ball link balls onto the
❏
ruddervator torque rods. Examine the ball link balls to
make sure there is no burr or a sharp point on the tip. If
necessary, use a metal le to grind off the protrusion, then
snap the ball links onto the balls. Also make sure the ball
link balls are the same length. If necessary, shorten the
longer torque rod to match the short one.
notch in the former and the tab on the bottom into the
slot in the base). Without glue, test- t the ruddervators
with the hinges, torque rods and ball links. Make sure
the ruddervators move smoothly and the ball links don’t
interfere with anything. Make any adjustments necessary.
4. If you haven’t yet done so, program your radio for
❏
V-tail mixing.
Now it’s time to decide what kind of pushrods you are
going to use—either the included rod-and-tube setup,
or an optional 5/32" [4mm] carbon ber pushrods (not
included). Most pilots use the standard wire pushrods,
but some pylon racers prefer carbon ber pushrods for
ultimate precision.
If using the pushrods included, skip to Make the Wire
Pushrods on page 13. If using carbon ber pushrods,
follow these instructions, or use your preferred method to
make the pushrods:
Make the Carbon Fiber Pushrods
The instructions illustrate making one pushrod at a time,
but you could make them simultaneously.
2. Make sure the ball links can move freely and are not
❏
too tight. If they are too tight, chuck the base of the ball in
a hand drill (or, try another ball link if you have a supply of
your own). Polish the ball with metal polish and a cloth or
other mildly abrasive product until the ball links swivel on
the balls smoothly. Temporarily reassemble and set aside.
3. Temporarily t the V-tail to the fuselage (being certain
❏
to key the tab at the front of the V-tail center rib into the
1. Cut two, approximately 4" [100mm] segments from
❏
the threaded end of one of the long pushrod wires so you
have a threaded piece and a non-threaded piece. Clean
the wires with denatured alcohol, then roughen with
medium-grit sandpaper so glue will adhere.
2. Make a 90° “L-bend” as sharp as you can on one of
❏
the non-threaded wires.
10
3. Drill a .074" or 5/64" [2.0mm] hole all the way through
16-5/8" [422mm]
Carbon Fiber TubeAluminum Tube/Sleeve
1/2" [13mm]
1-1/8" [29mm]
❏
a 5/32" [4mm] carbon ber pushrod tube 1" [25mm] from
the end.
4. Wearing respiratory and eye protection, use a razor
❏
saw or a reinforced cutoff wheel to cut a slot from one
of the holes up to the end of the tube, then install the
pushrod wire.
6. Make a Z-bend in the wire 5/8" [16mm] from the end
❏
of the tube. Cut the excess wire off the end of the Z-bend
and use a le or a reinforced cutoff wheel to deburr the
end of the wire.
5. Tack-glue the pushrod into place with a few drops of
❏
thin CA. Cut the “L” of the pushrod even with the tube, then
use a le to make the wire completely ush with the tube so
an aluminum sleeve can be t over the assembly later.
7. If installing the Futaba servos recommended, you
❏
can skip steps 8 through 12 and simply nish making the
pushrod to the dimensions shown above. If using other
servos, it would be better to custom- t the pushrods in
case the output shaft of your servos is different requiring
different pushrod lengths.
11
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