Great Planes PT-40 User Manual

Instruction Book

Welcome to the World of Radio Control Model Airplanes!

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION
BOOKLET FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERN­ING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.

WARNING!

This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious
bodily harm and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS
ALONE — to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying
gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly it only with experi­enced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common
sense as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is sug­gested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to
fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.

Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

[phone]

PO BOX 788 URBANA ILLINOIS 61801

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GENERAL COMMENTS .................... 2

BUILDING PRECAUTIONS ................. 3

GLUES .................................. 3

BUILDING HINTS ......................... 4

ITEMS NEEDED .......................... 4

TOOLS OR SUPPLIES NEEDED ............. 4

SPECIAL NOTE ON ENGINES .............. 4

PARTS IDENTIFICATION DRAWINGS 5

GET READY TO BUILD .................... 6

BUILD THE FUSELAGE SIDES ............. 7

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE ............... 8

INSTALL THE WINDSHIELD AND HATCH .. 10
MOUNT THE ENGINE BEAMS AND

BREAKAWAY

PLATES

....................

11

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR ............ 12

PREPARE THE NOSE GEAR ............... 12

CUT THE NOSE GEAR PUSHROD OPENING . 12

CUT THE PUSHROD EXIT SLOTS FOR THE
RUDDER AND ELEVATOR

................

13

BUILD AND INSTALL THE

"TAIL FEATHERS" ....................... 13

MAKE THE HINGES ...................... 14

MARK THE HINGE LOCATIONS ........... 14

CUT THE HINGE SLOTS .................. 14

MOUNT THE STAB ON THE FUSE ......... 14

MOUNT THE FIN TO THE STAB ........... 15

BUILD THE WING PANELS ............... 16

INSTALL TRAILING EDGE, AILERONS AND

TORQUE RODS (WING B ONLY) ........... 20

INSTALL THE WING TIPS ................. 21

SAND THE WING SMOOTH ............... 22

INSTALL THE WING PLATES .............. 22

TRIAL FIT THE WING IN THE SADDLE .... 22

MOUNT THE ENGINE .................... 23

INSTALL THE SERVOS ................... 24

INSTALL NYLON CONTROL HORNS ....... 25

PUSHRODS .............................. 26

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY .... 29

ADD THE FUSELAGE TOP ................ 29

SAND THE FUSELAGE ................... 30

FUELPROOF THE ENGINE AND FUEL

TANK COMPARTMENTS .............

30

PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING .... 30

COVER THE STABILIZER ................. 30

COVER THE FIN, RUDDER AND ELEVATOR . 30

COVER THE FUSELAGE .................. 30

COVER THE WING ....................... 31

ADD "WASHOUT" AT THE WING TIPS ...... 31

FINAL ASSEMBLY ....................... 32

BALANCE YOUR MODEL ................. 34

FLYING ................................. 34

AMA SAFETY CODE ..................... 36

CHANGING FROM 3 TO 4

CHANNEL VERSION .................... 37

JOIN THE WING PANELS ................. 18

INSTALL THE CENTER RIBS AND

BOTTOM SHEETING ..................... 19

INSTALL TAPERED TRAILING EDGE

(WING A ONLY)

..........................

19

GENERAL COMMENTS

Congratulations on your purchase of Great

Planes' PT40, the Perfect Trainer! You now own the

easiest building, easiest flying trainer on the market.
By following these instructions and by referring to
the plans, you will have a model you can be proud of
and one that will fly, almost by itself!

FLIGHT PROBLEMS CHART ............... 38

GLOSSARY .............................. 39

PARTS LIST ............................. 40

Our line of R/C kits is the fastest growing and
we believe the finest in the nation. As a result of
intensive testing, combined with our years of experi­ence, we know that a well built Great Planes' kit
will fly right. But that means:

1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions

2. You must take time to build straight, true and
strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc) throughout
your building process

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment is operating and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound.

6 You must fly the model only with competent
help from a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not
already an experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot

at this time.

Note- We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide

you with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it, therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are expres­sed or implied as to the performance or safety of your
completed model.

BUILDING PRECAUTIONS

Keep in mind that it is impossible for us to
guide you specifically as to every possible matter that
might come up as you build The fun and challenge
is to tackle the problem, using the plans and instruc­tions for resources as well as the assistance and ad­vice of fellow builders and your local hobby dealer.

The plans are the basic guide to building Do
not alter or modify the model as represented by
these plans Follow the step by step procedures given
in the building instructions.

Invest in the proper tools for building Knives,
drills and bits, saws, rulers, pliers and screw drivers
are but a few of the tools you will need Check the
list of tools needed in this book and seek the advice
of your dealer.

For best results, you should have such compo­nents as the engine, tank and radio on hand as you
build for fitting and installation purposes, it is much
more difficult, sometimes impossible, to do a proper

building job when components are purchased and
fitting attempted after most of the model is com­pleted Always have an eye on installation of the
components you intend to use as you build, take time
to think through and prepare for the installation of
those components Don't hurry! Take your time to
create a well built model that conforms to the plans

Build on a large, flat surface. Use waxed paper over

the part of the plans you are working on to prevent
glues from sticking to the plans Remember a careful
builder will build a warp-free, straight model that
will fly as it was designed to

Read and obey cautions, warnings and direc­tions on such items as glues, paints and other mater­ials These are often TOXIC to the human body in
terms of breathing and/or touch Be especially cauti­ous of cyanoacrylate glues that dry almost instantly
and bond with great power (also known as CA glues)

They require special care since they can be extremely
dangerous if they get into the eyes or on human skin
Watch for ventilation warnings and observe them
Keep small children and pets away from all building
and finishing materials. Keep your building area safe
and clean

We urge you to read through these instructions,

identify all the parts, mark them with their names,

letters or numbers and look over the plans so you
become familiar with what the model will look like
and what the names of the different parts are
Throughout the instructions we will be referring to
the various parts of the model as they are called out
on the plan There is a glossary in the back of these
instructions if you are unfamiliar with any words or
part names. Refer to it for help.

If when you are identifying the parts you find
that a part is missing or broken, please let us know
about it before you start building and we will correct
the problem

CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE

GLUES (ADHESIVES)

If you look at the "ITEMS NEEDED" list you

will see that we recommend only two basic types of
glue for building the PT-40...CA glue and epoxy.

CA (cyanoacrylate) glues are great for model

building because they set fast Rather than pinning
glued joints together and waiting for hours while the
glue dries, CA glues will harden in a few seconds
while you hold the parts together Thin CA runs
right into a good fitting Joint, so you can assemble
the parts first, then apply thin CA Thick CA is more
like syrup and it will not harden until you press the
two parts together, squeezing the glue out to a thin
layer A related and very handy product is CA Ac-
celerator spray (Zip Kicker or Hot Shot), and is
used to instantly harden CA glue When using CA
glues make sure the parts fit well before gluing
because they don't give you a second chance

If you need time to position glued pieces cor-

rectly or need extra strength, use epoxy glues Epoxy
is normally used in the firewall and engine mount
area and when gluing the two wing panels together
Five minute epoxy (it starts to harden in 5 minutes)
is great for most applications If you need longer time
use 15 or 30 minute epoxy You need not use large
amounts of epoxy. Squeeze out the amounts of epoxy

and hardener that your particular brand requires.
For example, some epoxies use equal amounts and
some use a 1 to 2 mixture . Mix these together. Coat
one piece with epoxy; squeegee the excess glue off
with scrap wood. The epoxy glue will work better if
there isn't too much oozing out at the edges of the
glued piece. Wipe off any of this excess glue.

In any case, glue is never a substitute for a
good-fitting joint; once the joint is formed, use a
minimum amount of glue and wipe off the excess.
Clamp, pin or hold the joint while the glue is drying.

Remember: Take your time and follow di­rections to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.

BUILDING HINTS

Your work area ideally should be large and com­fortable enough for you to work without having to
put everything away every night. (The kitchen table
is not recommended!) The key to a straight fuselage
and warp-free wings is a straight, flat building board
or work bench. Remember, your model is only as
straight as the board you build on. Have all your
tools handy and your building will go much easier.

Build over the plans when instructed. Cover
the part of the plan you are using with waxed paper
so you don't glue the model to the plans! If the parts
do not match the plans exactly, it is because the plans
have changed size with moisture in the air. Do not
be concerned about this. The parts were all cut to fit

each other. Use the plans as a guide.

Remember this: In order for your PT40 to per­form as it should it is your responsibility to take your
time when building and to follow all the instructions
given. A careful builder will produce a model that is
straight, true and warp-free. A well built model per­forms best and will fly like it was designed to. So
take your time and enjoy!

If at all possible, get an experienced model buil­der to look at your model during the construction
process. It is much easier to make corrections at these
times.

The building instructions follow. If you have

any questions about building or flying the PT40,

please call us at [phone] and we'll be glad to

help.

6- 5/32" Wheel Collars
1- 6 or 8 oz. Fuel Tank
1/4 pound- #64 Rubber Bands
Thin Cyanoacrylate Glue, 2 oz.
Thick Cyanoacrylate Glue, 1 oz.
5 Minute Epoxy, 2.5 oz.
15 or 30 minute epoxy, 2.5 oz.
Wing Seating Tape
Balancing Weights
Iron-On Covering Material (Top Flite Super
MonoKote Recommended)
Foam Rubber (For Cushioning Radio Receiver
and Battery)
Radio System (3 or 4 Channel)
Engine (.25-.40 2-Cycle or .30 to .45 4-Cycle)
Fuel Line, medium size
Chicken Stick or Electric Starter
Glow Plug Clip
Glow Plug Battery

TOOLS OR SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits 3/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 3/16", 7/32", 5/16")

Sanding Block or T- Bar
Sealing Iron
Heat Gun
Hobby Saw (X-Acto Razor Saw)
X-Acto Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Driver
10 ft.-Kite String or Strong Thread
T-Pins
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Sandpaper, Coarse (100 grit) and fine (220 grit)
Waxed Paper
Balsa Filler

Note: As with any other hobby, you may go "all

out" if you choose by purchasing all sorts of special
hobby tools and accessories (there are hundreds avail­able). However, most of the PT40 parts are accurately
pre-cut so you can build it without a lot of special
tools. Some of the more advanced R/C kits require
the builder to do a lot more cutting and sanding, so
you may eventually want to equip your workshop
with tools like a Dremel Moto Tool, jig saw, small
table saw, disk/belt sander, small drill press, small
band saw, etc., but these are not necessary now.

It is a good idea to obtain the following items

before you start building as you will need to install
or test fit some of them before assembly is complete.
Most of these items can be purchased from your local
hobby dealer.

ITEMS NEEDED:

1- 10 x 6 Propeller or Proper Size for Your En­gine
1- 2-1/4" Spinner or Acorn Type Prop Nut
2- 2 1/2" or 2-3/4" Main Wheels
1- 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" Nose Wheel

SPECIAL NOTE ON ENGINES

Choose the right sized engine for the PT40 as
indicated here. We recommend a .25 to .40 two cycle
engine or a .30 to .45 four cycle engine. Too large or
too small an engine can result in an unsafe or poor
flying model. Remember that a model engine is not
a "toy" but a device that can cause serious bodily
harm to you or others on the ground or cause harm
in the air if abused or misused.

TYPES OF WOOD

HARDWARE

TAPERED

AILERON AND

TRAILING EDGE

STOCK

#4x5/8

#4x1/2"

SCREW

SCREW

#2x3/8"SCREW

6-32x3/16"

SCREW

PT40 PARTS

4-40x1"

2-56 x 3/8"

BOLT

SCREW

5/32"

COLLAR

AILERON

AILERON CLEVIS

CONNECTOR

CLEVIS

GET READY TO BUILD

D 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re- roll it inside out to
make it lie flat. Note: The fuselage plan is printed
on Side 1 and the wing plan is printed on Side 2.

D 3. Punch out all the die cut parts excepting the
sheets stamped "A" and "B". If a part does not come
out easily, cut around it with an X-Acto knife. Mark
the die cut parts before punching them out. Also
save any scrap wood until you are completely finished
building. You will use some scrap to build the model.
You will find that scrap wood is quite handy to use
for lots of things, like spreading epoxy for instance.

D 2. As you remove all parts from the box, use a felt
tip pen to write the name or number on each part.
To identify the parts, compare them with the plans

and with the die-cut parts patterns shown here:

DIE CUT PARTS PATTERNS

«

PT40W07 13 PER KIT WING RIBS 3/32x 3x12 BALSA

PT40F07 I PER KIT 1/8 x 3-7/8 x 12 3/4 PLY

C3

SERVO TRAY

FUSELAGE BOTTOM

PT40FIO 2 PER KIT 1/8 x 3-7/8 x 13-1/2 PLY

LOCKPLATES |

F-l

J

D 4. Separate the parts into four groups: 1-

FUSELAGE, 2- WING, 3- FIN & STABILIZER, 4­HARDWARE

IMPORTANT: READ THIS BEFORE

STARTING TO BUILD

The PT40 may be built as a "3-Channel" or

"4-Channel" trainer.

In the 3-channel version, you control the rud-

der, elevator and throttle, and it uses "Wing A" which
has a fixed (non-moving) trailing edge and a large
amount of dihedral. It requires a radio having 3 or
more channels.

WING "A"

MORE DIHEDRAL

PT40F05 I PER

\^ STAB SADDLE DOUBLER /

KIT

1/8 x 3-7/8 x 9-3/4

PLY

PT40W15 1 PER

1

KIT____1/8 x 4-1/4 x 11-1/2

PLY

MOVEABLE AILERONS

The 3-Channel version is the easiest to build
and most stable; therefore, if you are a beginner we
strongly recommend that you build your PT40 as a
3-Channel airplane with Wing A.

LESS

DIHEDRAL

i

The 4-Channel version has more ability to per­form acrobatic maneuvers, but is more difficult to
build and its self-recovery characteristics are not
quite as good. If you already have some R/C flying
experience and are ready to move up to an airplane
that is more maneuverable, you may choose to build
your PT40 as a 4-Channel airplane with Wing B.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE SIDES

D 1. Take the two large 1/8" balsa fuselage sides
and put them together. Carefully line them up along
the bottom edge and the front. Tape them together
with a few pieces of masking tape along the bottom
edge to prevent them from moving. Now examine the
other edges to make sure the two fuselage sides are

exactly the same all around. If not, use a T-bar sander
with 100 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the edges to
match.

D 6. Remove the fuse side from the plan and make
small marks on the top and bottom edges, where the
lines end.

D 7. Put the two fuse sides together (inside to in­side), and line them up carefully. While holding them
together, transfer the edge marks over to the left fuse
side edges as shown here.

D 8. Now draw lines on the left inside fuse side,
using the edge marks and a straight edge.

D 2. Now, with the tape still in place along the
bottom edge, let the two sides fall open and write
"Rt inside" and "Left inside" as shown here.

D 3. Tape the fuselage plan to your building sur­face.

D 4. Lay the right fuse (fuselage) side on the plan,
and carefully position it so the bottom edge and the
nose line up with the plan. Insert a few pins or tape
to hold it in place.

D 5. Using the "locator arrows", a straightedge
and a pen, draw six vertical lines on the fuse side as
shown. Press lightly to avoid damaging the balsa.

D 9. Lay the large 1/8" ply fuse doubler on the right
inside fuse side and position it to line up at the nose
and bottom edge. The part of the doubler which is
behind the L.G. plate area must be exactly 1/8"
above the bottom edge of the fuse side. Use a piece
of 1/8" balsa (such as the "windshield" piece) to check
this spacing. When you are satisfied that the doubler
is correctly lined up, apply thin CA glue all around
the edges while holding the doubler in place. Use
enough glue to make sure it flows under the plywood
to make a good bond.

D

10. Position

the

upper and

lower

"lock plates"

and
the stab saddle doublers on the right fuse side, using
the vertical guidelines previously drawn. The upper
lock plates and stab saddle doubler must be even with
the top edge of the fuse side. The three lower

lock plates

must

be positioned

1/8"

above

the

bot­tom edge of the fuse side. Use a piece of 1/8" balsa
as a spacer to aid in correct positioning of the bottom
lock plates.

Glue

these parts

in place

with thin

CA.

(See photo on next page.)

D 11. Notice that the 1/8" balsa fuse side has two
slightly rounded corners at the front of the "hatch"
area and at the front of the "stab saddle" area. Using
an X-Acto knife, cut away these rounded comers to
match the doublers.

D 15. Use one of the 3/8" ply engine beams as a
spacer to position the 1/4" balsa upper tripler. Move
the upper tripler forward or back until it lines up
with the line you drew in Step 13.

D 12. Turn the fuse side over and lay the 1/8" balsa

upper fuse side in place on the doubler, lining up
the curved "windshield" edge. Apply glue all around
the edges of this upper fuse side.

LI 13. Draw a straight line connecting the front edge
of the front slots in the fuse doubler.

D 16. Remove the 3/8" ply spacer, then glue the upper

tripler in place with thin CA all around the edges.
D 17. Glue the fuselage doubler, upper and lower

lock-plates, upper fuse side, stab saddle doublers and
the 1/4" balsa triplers to the left inside fuselage side.
Be sure to follow the same procedure as set forth in
steps 9-16 when doing so, but don't make two Rt.

fuse sides!

D 18. Drill or cut out the 5/16" holes in the fuse sides
for the wing hold-down dowels. If you use a drill, lay
the fuse side on a wood block for a backing to drill
into, which will prevent the balsa from tearing.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

D 14. Lay the 1/4" balsa lower tripler in place on
the fuse doubler, and line it up with the line just
drawn and the edge of the doubler Glue the lower
tripler in place with thin CA all around the edges.

D 1. Before assembling the fuselage, make sure
that the following parts are set out within easy reach:
both fuse sides with doublers and triplers securely
glued on; formers F-l through F-6; 1/8" ply fuse bot­tom; 3/8" ply L.G. (landing gear) plate; 1/8" balsa
fuse bottom; the tapered balsa "fuse tail wedge" and
the six #62 rubber bands provided.

Note: In the next steps you will assemble the

fuselage without glue! The interlocking parts ena­ble you to do this so you can get everything together,
make sure the parts fit properly, check for straight­ness and make adjustments if necessary. Then you
will glue everything together by applying thin CA.

D 2. Make the "firewall" (Former F-l) by gluing
together the two 1/8" plywood parts which are marked
"F-l". Use 5 minute epoxy for this job. After the epoxy
has hardened, drill four 1/8" holes at the marks for

the nose gear bearing mounting holes.
D 3. Lay the right fuse side flat on the work surface.

Insert formers F-l and F-2 into their respective slots

in the right fuse side doubler.

D 8. Put F-5 and F- 6 in place in the lock-plate
notches and secure with rubber bands.

D 9. Note that the rear end of the stab saddle doub­lers touch, preventing the rear ends of the fuse sides
from coming together. Using your T-bar, sand the
rear portions of both the stab saddle doublers as
shown until the rear ends of the fuse sides nearly

touch.

D 4. While holding F-l and F-2 upright, lay the left
fuse side in place on these formers. Now put the 1/8"
ply fuse bottom in place in the slots provided.

D 5. Holding these five parts together with one
hand, slide two #62 rubber bands over the nose, leav­ing one around F-l and one around F-2.

Note: Notice that the fuselage has now become

somewhat rigid and square. Before proceeding make
sure that the tabs in F-l, F-2 and the fuse bottom are
properly inserted into the slots in the fuse doublers.
Position the fuselage in its normal (upright) position
while inserting the other formers in the next steps.

D 6. Put former F- 3 in place and secure by sliding
a rubber band around the fuselage from the rear.

D 7. Slide another rubber band around the fuse to
the F-4 location, pulling the fuse sides together. Now
work F-4 into place in the lock-plate notches.

(See photo at top of next column.)

D 10. Turn the fuselage upside down and place the
3/8" ply L.G. plate into the slots provided. Secure
with masking tape.

D 11. Now take the 1/8" balsa fuse bottom and care­fully slide it in place, narrow end first, under the
rubber bands, starting at F-3.

D 12. Finally, insert the tapered balsa fuse tail
wedge, and secure with a small rubber band or mask­ing tape.

D 13. Temporarily install the 3/8" ply engine beams
and the 1/4" ply breakaway plates. Hold in place with
masking tape. Now position your engine on the
breakaway plates and your fuel tank behind F-l.
Don't worry about exact fits at this time. While hold­ing these parts in position, determine where to drill
the holes in F-l for the fuel lines and the throttle
pushrod. (See photo and notes on next page.)

NOTE ON ENGINES: The engine mount

"breakaway plates" have been cut to an average width
which will permit mounting almost any engine you

choose. However, you may have to trim these plates
slightly to fit your engine. The best way to do this is
to sand or file away a little at a time from the inside
edges of both breakaway plates until your engine fits
between the plates.

NOTE ON FUEL TANK: The PT40 requires

any 6 or 8 oz. fuel tank of your choice. Most tanks
have three possible openings, one for fuel pick- up,
and two for the fill/vent lines. We recommend that
you only use two lines. Run one line from the "klunk"
pick-up to the fuel fitting on the engine carburetor
and the other to the "pressure tap" fitting on the
muffler.

D 14. Because you have not yet glued the fuse parts
together, you may now carefully remove F-l and drill

the holes for the fuel lines and throttle pushrod.

D 18. Check your assembly of the fuselage, making
sure that all former tabs are in their respective
notches and all parts are in place. Set the fuselage
assembly on the plan top view. Your fuse assembly
should line up with the plan within 1/16". If not,
something is wrong and you should try to straighten
it out. If the alignment is far off and you can't find
the problem, consult with an experienced model buil­der to correct the problem before proceeding.

D 19. Lay down a 50" long piece of waxed paper to
protect your building surface. Set the fuselage assem­bly upright (in its normal position) on the waxed
paper. With everything in its proper place, apply thin
CA glue to all the joints, around the formers and
along the bottom. Wait a minute for the glue to set,
then apply thick CA to the joints to make sure a
good bond exists, especially in the joints that do not
fit perfectly. Note: The use of "Zip Kicker" or other
CA glue accelerator will be helpful when using thick
CA to fill any large gaps.

D 20. Remove the rubber bands from the fuselage.
In the above step you may have glued the rubber
bands to the wood in some places. If so, just cut the
rubber away from the wood with an X-Acto knife.

INSTALL THE WINDSHIELD
AND HATCH

D 1. Put the 1/2" balsa triangle windshield brace
in place and apply thin CA glue.

D 15. Insert four 4-40 blind nuts part-way into the

1/8" holes previously drilled. Insert them from the
back side of F-l. Apply one drop of thick CA glue
under the wide part of each nut, then immediately
press them firmly in place with a pliers or a vise.

4-40 BLIND NUT

D 16. Replace F-l back into the fuse.
D 17. By now you should have decided which wing

you are going to build, "Wing A" (without ailerons),
or "Wing B" (with ailerons). If you have chosen'

"Wing A", find the four F-2A wing saddles and put

them into the slots behind F-2 and in front of F-3. If

you have chosen "Wing B", use the F-2B saddles.

D 2. Sand the 1/2" balsa triangle to match the curve
on the fuse sides.

D 3. Sand the bottom edge of the l/8"balsa

windshield at an angle so it will rest flat on the fuse
sides.

D 4. Apply thick CA to the 1/2" balsa triangle, then
immediately place the windshield in position, hold­ing the bottom against the triangle.

10 (See photo, top of next page.)

D 5. Wet the top surface of the windshield so the
wood will bend without breaking.

D 6. Apply thick CA to the top of F-2 and the fuse
sides where the windshield will contact, then im­mediately bend the windshield down and hold until
the glue sets

D 7. Trim any excess windshield even with the back
edge of F-2.

D 8. Taper the rear edge of the 1/8" ply hatch to fit

the windshield as shown on the fuse plan side view.
D 9. Find the piece of 1/8" ply that you punched

out of F-5. This is used as the hatch tongue. Glue the
hatch tongue to the bottom of the 1/8" ply hatch with
thick CA. Let the hatch tongue extend about 1/2"

beyond the back edge of the hatch.

MOUNT THE ENGINE BEAMS AND
BREAKAWAY PLATES

D 1. Glue the 3/8" ply engine beams in place using
5 minute epoxy. With a tissue, wipe off any excess
epoxy that squeezes out when sliding the beams into
the slots. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before disturb­ing the beams.

D 2. Holding the 1/4" breakaway plate under the
3/8" ply beam, draw a line on the breakaway plate

to mark the edge of the beam.

D 10. Draw a guideline 1/8" back from the front edge
of the hatch. This is the centerline of the three hatch
hold down screws.

D 11. Holding the hatch firmly in position, drill three
1/16" holes along the guideline •

D 12. Remove the hatch and re-drill the holes in the

hatch only to 3/32". Then attach the hatch to the fuse
with three #2 x 3/8" screws. (See photo, top of next

column.)

D 3. Now place the breakaway plate on top of the
beam and while holding the plate firmly in place,
drill three 3/32" holes as shown, drilling down
through the breakaway plate and the beam. Do this
for both plates and beams.

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D 4. Remove the breakaway plates and re-drill the
holes in the breakaway plates only to 1/8".

D 5, Fasten the breakaway plates to the beams
using six #4 x 5/8" screws.

PREPARE THE NOSE GEAR

D 1. Referring to the steering arm drawing here,
cut off about 3/16" of the steering arm so it will clear
the fuse triplers. Drill out the end hole to 5/64"diame­ter for pushrod wire clearance.

TRIM 3/16" HERE

#4x5/8"

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR

D 1. Turn the fuselage upside down and position
the 5/32" wire main L.G. (landing gear) on the ply
L.G. plate. Set the four nylon L.G. straps in place
and mark the location for the eight screw holes. Drill
3/32" (or slightly smaller) holes at the marks.____

D 2. Temporarily mount the main LG using the
nylon straps and the #4 x 1/2" screws.

#4x1/2"
D 3. Temporarily mount the nylon nose gear bearing

using four 4-40 x 1" bolts screwed into the 4-40 blind
nuts previously installed.

SCREW

SCREW

4-40x1" BOLT

D 2.Assemble the nose gear steering arm which
consists of a nylon arm, a 5/32" wheel collar and a
6-32 x 3/16" screw.

D 3. Place the steering arm assembly into the nose
gear bracket making sure that the wheel collar open­ing on the steering arm is down and the screw is
facing out.

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D 4. Referring to the nose gear diagram on the plans,
slide the nose gear wire through the holes in the
nose gear bearing and wheel collar/steering arm.
Tighten the screw, making sure the steering arm is
at the angle shown on the top view of the fuselage.

D 4. If you are a young person, you should ask
an adult to help you with the following step:

Using a side cutter, cut off the excess bolt length
sticking out behind F-l. You must wear eye protec-
tion when doing this! Note: An alternate method
is to mark the bolts with an indelible marker, remove
them from F-l, and cut them off at the marks with
a side cutter, hacksaw or a Dremel cut-off wheel.

(See photo, top of next column.)

CUT THE NOSEGEAR PUSHROD
OPENING

D 1. Mark and drill a 1/8" hole through Former F-l
in the position shown on the F-l drawing on the plan.
This hole is for pushrod clearance.

See photo, top of next page

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