Wing Loadin
Length: 57.5 in [1460mm]
Radio: 4-channel minimum with 4 to 5 servos and standard size receiver
Engine: .46 to .61 cu in [7.5 to 10cc] two-stroke,
.52 to .81 cu in [8.5 to 13.5cc] four-stroke
.80 (50-55-500) brushless out-runner motor
[41.6dm
[64 – 76g/d
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modifi cation. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the fi nal assembly or
material used for fi nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the fi nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim
send the defective part or
item to Hobby Services at:
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
3D FLYING ...................................................................... 28
Congratulations on the purchase of the Great Planes
Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF! This latest Matt
Chapman version has been designed to give even the most
selective pilots the 3D performance they are looking for as
well as the smooth, forgiving fl ight that the sport modeler
desires. With so many assembly steps already complete
right out of the box, you will be able to spend more time
at the fl ying fi eld and far less time at your workbench! In
addition, bolt-on wings and bolt-on stabilizer halves eliminate
the time consuming gluing and measuring procedures
typically required on a model of this size, as well as make
future repairs quick and easy. For the brushless motor users,
the canopy hatch is securely held in place with our hook
and magnet system for access to fl ight batteries and can be
quickly removed by simply sliding it forward and lifting it off.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to
the Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF, visit the
Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the
“Airplanes” link, then select the Eagle 580 Matt Chapman
.46-.81/EP ARF. If there is new technical information or
changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in the
upper left corner of the page.
AMA
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join!
The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and
membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects
modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fl y at most
R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
2
Page 3
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS....FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF should
not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, the Eagle 580 Matt
Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Eagle 580
Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF that may require planning or
decision making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part
to remove fi berglass dust, as the dust will blow back into
your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and
rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fi berglass
parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fi berglass parts.
Radio Equipment
The Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF requires a
minimum 4-channel radio system with four 44 oz.-in. [3.2
kg-cm] minimum standard servos. If you are installing a
glow engine, an additional standard servo is required for the
throttle. For maximum performance, we recommend installing
Futaba® S9252 servos for the elevators and rudder.
In addition, two 6" [152mm] servo extensions are required
for the aileron servos. If you are using a radio system that
does not support mixing functions, a Y-harness will also be
required to connect the aileron servos to the receiver.
If you plan to install a brushless motor, you will need a 6"
[152mm] servo extension for the ESC. If you plan to install
a glow engine, you may also need a 12" [305mm] servo
extension for the receiver pack depending on where on the
model you install the pack. A 16" [406mm] servo extension
is needed for an aft mounted rudder servo.
To achieve 3D control throws for the ailerons and elevators,
1" [25mm] servo arms are needed.
A charge jack receptacle is optional, but is useful for
recharging and checking voltage of the receiver pack without
removing the canopy hatch. Recommended part numbers
for the radio components are provided below:
❏ Futaba
❏ Futaba S9252 Servo Digital All Purpose (FUTM0222)
❏ Hobbico
(HCAM2701)
❏ Hobbico Pro HD Y-Harness Futaba J (HCAM2751)
❏ Hobbico Pro HD Extension 12" [305mm] Futaba J
(HCAM2711)
❏ Futaba Servo Extension 16" J (FUTM3955)
❏ Great Planes 1" Servo Arm (GPMM1100)
❏ Dubro Servo Arms Super Strength Futaba J Long (8)
(DUBM6670)
❏ Ernst Charge Receptacle Futaba J FM (ERNM3001)
3
®
S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servo (FUTM0004)
®
Pro™ HD Extension 6" [152mm] Futaba J
Page 4
Power System Recommendations
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
The recommended engine/motor size for the Eagle 580 Matt
Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF is a .46 to .61 cu in [7.5 to 10cc]
two-stroke engine, .52 to .81 cu in [8.5 to 13.5cc] four-stroke
engine, or a RimFire
motor. Recommended engine and motor order numbers are
provided below:
❏ O.S.
®
55 AX ABL w/Muffl er (OSMG0556)
™
.80 (50-55-500) brushless out-runner
❏ Bisson O.S. .46 SF/FX .50 SX Pitts Muffl er (BISG4046)
❏ O.S. 81FS-a (OSMG0981)
❏ Great Planes RimFire .80 (50-55-500) Out-Runner
Brushless (GPMG4740)
❏ Great Planes Brushless Motor Mount Large Motors
(GPMG1260)
If using the recommended brushless motor, a 60A brushless
ESC is required:
❏ Great Planes Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC High Volt
(GPMM1850)
Propeller
If you are installing a glow engine, choose a prop based
on the engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If you are
installing the recommended RimFire brushless motor, we
suggest a 15 x 7E APC propeller.
❏ APC 15 x 7 Electric Propeller (APCQ1830)
Batteries & Charger
For a brushless motor installation, two 3200mAh 11.1V
Lithium Polymer battery packs connected in series are
recommended. Order numbers for the battery packs and
series connector are provided below:
❏ Great Planes LiPo 3200mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0623)
❏ Great Planes Series Deans U 2 to 1 Adapter (GPMM3143)
Required Hardware and Accessories
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
fi nish the Matt Chapman Eagle 580 .46-.81/EP ARF. Order
numbers are provided in parentheses:
❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or
1/2" [13mm] - HCAQ1050)
❏ 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
(Glow engine installation only)
❏ Great Planes Velcro
(GPMQ4480) (Brushless installation only)
®
Hook and Loop Material 1" x 6" (2)
Adhesives and Building Supplies
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies required
to fi nish the Matt Chapman Eagle 580 .46-.81/EP ARF:
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Threadlocker
❏ Dead Center
❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120) (Glow engine installation only)
❏ Small metal fi le
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
❏ Top Flite
®
MonoKote® sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock
❏ 220-grit Sandpaper
❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
™
CA (GPMR6001)
™
iron cover (TOPR2175)
A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery pack
listed above:
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly
1-5 (GPMM3160)
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™ is designed for LiPo packs only; however, it
is able to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great
Planes Triton2 charger will only charge one pack at a time,
however is capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and lead
acid batteries. Order numbers for both are provided below:
❏ Great Planes PolyCharge4
Charger (GPMM3015) or
❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2
Charger (GPMM3153)
™
Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer
™
DC Only 4 Output LiPo
™
DC Comp Peak
Optional Supplies and Tools
Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the Matt
Chapman Eagle 580 .46-.81/EP ARF:
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Epoxy brushes 6, (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
4
Page 5
❏ Can of compressed air (TAEC1060)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel (HCAR0460)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16" Collet w/6 Bits (HCAR0696)
❏ Hobbico 8-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench SAE (HCAR0520)
❏ Great Planes Clevis Installation Tool (GPMR8030)
BUILDING STAND
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Eagle 580 Matt
Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF are available using the order
numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The
fastest, most economical service can be provided by your
hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
A building stand or cradle comes in handy during the build.
We use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for all our
projects in R&D, and it can be seen in pictures throughout
this manual.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fi t
the part as necessary for the best fi t.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Missing pieces ................. Contact Product Support
Instruction manual ...........Contact Product Support
Full-size plans ..................Not available
Contact your hobby supplier for the following parts:
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT CONTENTS
KIT CONTENTS
KIT CONTENTS
3
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Spinner
4. Engine Mount
1
4
7
5
6
5
9
8
3
5. Wheel Pants (2)
6. Main Wheels (2)
7. Main Landing Gear (2)
8. Air Scoops (2)
2
1010
1414
15
9. Fuel Tank
10. Stabilizers w/Elevators
11. Stabilizer Tubes
12. Rudder
13
12
11
13. Tailwheel Assembly
14. Wing Halves w/Ailerons
15. Wing Tube
66
Page 7
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
Preparations
❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on page 7.
❏ 2. Attach a 6" [152mm] servo extension to each aileron
servo and secure the connector using 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces
from the included heat shrink tubing. Center the servos with
your radio system and install the servo arms to the servos
perpendicular to the servo cases as shown. Be sure to
reinstall the servo arm screws into the servos.
❏ 2. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on medium/high
heat to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over
sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
Assemble the Wings
Before completing this section, confi rm that the servos that
you will be using will properly fi t between the servo mounting
block locations on the aileron servo hatch covers. Make
adjustments with a hobby knife to the blocks as necessary
for your brand of servos. The block positions are designed to
fi t a standard size Futaba brand servo.
❏ 3. Position each servo against the undersides of the aileron
servo hatch covers between the mounting blocks. Shim the
aileron servos away from the hatch covers approximately
3/64" [1.2mm] to isolate them from vibration (a business
card folded in thirds works well for this). Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]
holes through the mounting tabs on the servo case into the
blocks. Thread a servo mounting screw (included with the
servos) into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin
CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the CA has dried,
install the servos onto the hatch covers using the hardware
supplied with the servos. If the servos you are using don’t fi t
between the blocks, remove material for the wood blocks.
❏ 1. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for each
aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole of the remaining arm
with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. 3D aileron throws will require 1"
[25mm] or longer servo arms.
7
7
Page 8
❏ 4. Use the strings taped inside the aileron servo hatches
to pull the servo leads through the wing panels.
❏ 6. Thread a nylon clevis 20 complete turns onto each 6"
[152mm] pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each
clevis and connect the clevises to the outer holes of two
control horns.
❏ 7. Position the control horns over the plywood plates in the
ailerons (if you cannot see them, hold the aileron at a shallow
angle in good lighting or use a small pin to puncture the covering)
using the position of the servo arms as a guide. Align the holes
in the control horns directly over the aileron hinge line and mark
the location of the control horn mounting holes.
❏ 5. Before fi tting the hatches in place, thread a #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hatch mounting hole
and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole to
harden the wood. Install the hatch covers to the wings using
eight #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws and eight #2
fl at washers.
❏ 8. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks you made
through the plywood plates. Do not drill all the way through
the ailerons! Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw
through each hole and back it out. Apply a couple drops of
thin CA glue to each hole to harden the wood. When the glue
has dried, install the control horns onto the ailerons using
four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws.
8
8
Page 9
Servo Horn
Install the Tail Section
The horizontal stabilizer is a two-piece bolt-on design that
can be taken off at any time by simply removing two screws.
If, after this section, you decide it is easier to complete the
model on your work table with the stab removed, feel free to
do so as it will no longer be needed until it is time to set the
control throws on the fi nished model.
❏ 1. Test fi t a CA hinge into each of the hinge slots in the
rudder and fuselage. If necessary, enlarge the slots with
a hobby knife. When satisfi ed with the fi t, insert a CA hinge
halfway into each hinge slot in the fuselage. Push a pin through
the middle of each hinge to keep them centered. Test fi t the tail
wheel assembly into the slot at the bottom of the fuselage.
2-56 (.074")
Pushrod Wire
FasLink
1/16"
❏ 9. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the ailerons in the
neutral position. Make a mark on the pushrods where they
cross the outer holes in the servo arms. Make a 90° bend at
the mark on the pushrod and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4"
[6mm] beyond the bend. Attach the pushrods to the servo
arms using nylon FasLinks. Thread the clevises up or down
on the pushrods as necessary to center the ailerons with the
servo arms centered. When satisfi ed, slide the silicone clevis
retainers to the ends of the clevises to secure them.
❏ 2. Roughen the portion of the tail wheel wire that fi ts into
the rudder with 220-grit sandpaper and clean it off with alcohol.
Lightly coat that end of the tail wheel wire with epoxy and fi t it into
the hole in the LE of the rudder. Be sure not to get epoxy onto
the nylon tab where it rotates on the wire. Lightly coat both sides
of the nylon tab with epoxy and fi t the rudder to the fuselage onto
the CA hinges. Wipe away any excess epoxy with denatured
alcohol. Remove the pins and adjust the rudder so there is a
small gap between the LE of the rudder and the fuselage. The
gap should be small, just enough to see light through the gap or
to slip a piece of paper through. When satisfi ed, apply six drops
of thin CA to both sides of each hinge without using accelerator.
After the CA glue has hardened, confi rm that the rudder is
secure by pulling on it and defl ecting it left and right.
9
Page 10
Install the Tail Servos and Pushrods
A servo bay is provided in the tail of the plane for an aft
mounted rudder servo. An aft mounted rudder servo will
reduce or eliminate any tail weight needed to balance the
airplane with a heavier engine installed. An additional 16"
[406mm] servo extension is needed for an aft mounted
rudder servo. See the “Expert Tip” in this section detailing
the aft rudder servo installation.
❏ 3. Slide the carbon fi ber horizontal stabilizer tubes
into the fuselage with the shorter tube in the forward
position. Fit the stab halves onto the tubes and slide them
against the fuselage. Secure the stabs in place using two
4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS, two #4 fl at washers and
threadlocking compound.
❏ 1. Trim the covering from the elevator and rudder pushrod
exit slots in the fuselage. Temporarily insert a 2-56 x 36"
[914mm] pushrod into each elevator pushrod exit slot. Use
the position of the pushrod to align the elevator control horns
onto the undersides of the elevator halves. Mark the locations
of the control horn mounting holes onto the elevator halves
and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks. Do not drill all the
way through the elevator halves! Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screw into each hole and back it out. Apply a
couple drops of thin CA glue to each hole and let it harden.
Attach the elevator control horns to the elevators using four
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws.
❏ 2. Attach a control horn onto the left side of the rudder in
the same fashion.
10
Page 11
❏ 3. Cut three arms from two four-armed servo arms (a long
servo arm will be needed on the elevator servo to achieve
3D control throw). Center the elevator and rudder servos
with your radio system and install them onto the servos in
the orientation shown with the servo arm screws. Enlarge
the outer holes of each servo arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
Install the elevator and rudder servos into the servo tray as
shown using the hardware supplied with the servos. Before
drilling the mounting holes, test fi t your throttle servo (if
applicable) to confi rm there is enough space for it next to the
elevator servo. Be sure to harden the screw holes with thin
CA as was done with the aileron servos.
❏ 5. With the rudder in the neutral position and the rudder
servo arm perpendicular to the servo case, mark where the
pushrod crosses the outer hole of the servo arm. As you
did with the aileron pushrods, make a 90° bend at the mark
and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend.
Secure the pushrod to the servo arm with a nylon FasLink.
Make any adjustments necessary to the nylon clevis so that
the rudder is properly centered and slide the silicone clevis
retainer to the end of the clevis. Cut off the tip of the rudder
control horn so it does not interfere with the elevator.
❏ 4. Thread a nylon clevis and silicone clevis retainer onto a 2-56
x 36" [914mm] pushrod 20 complete turns. Slide the pushrod
through the rudder pushrod exit slot in the fuselage and connect
it to the second inner hole in the rudder control horn.
Aft Rudder Servo Installation
❏ A. Sand and clean a 36" [914mm] pushrod with
denatured alcohol. Lightly coat 4" [102mm] of the pushrod
beyond the threaded end with epoxy. Slide the included
piece of carbon fi ber tube over the pushrod, positioning
it 1/4" [6mm] beyond the threaded end. Wipe away any
excess epoxy with denatured alcohol.
11
Page 12
❏ B. Trim the covering from the aft rudder servo bay on the
left side of the fuselage in the location shown. Attach a 16"
[406mm] servo extension to the rudder servo and secure
the connection with a piece of heat shrink tubing. Install the
servo using the hardware included with it. As you did with
the ailerons, fi nish the pushrod installation using a nylon
clevis, silicone clevis retainer, and a FasLink.
Position the right elevator in the neutral position and cut off
the excess pushrod 1" [25mm] behind the elevator servo arm.
Join the two elevator pushrods together using two 5/32" [4mm]
wheel collars, two 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS and threadlocking
compound. View the model from behind and confi rm that the
elevator halves are parallel. If not, make any adjustments as
necessary to the clevises or wheel collars until they are.
Assemble & Install the Landing Gear
❏ 6. Attach two 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrods with nylon
clevises and silicone clevis retainers to the second outer
holes in the elevator control horns (for 3D elevator throws,
use the second inner holes in the control horns).
❏ 1. Secure the axles to the landing gear legs using the
5/16"-24 nylon lock nuts.
❏ 7. With the left elevator in the neutral position and the
elevator servo arm perpendicular to the servo case, mark
the location where the left elevator pushrod crosses the outer
hole of the elevator servo arm. Make a 90° bend at the mark
and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend.
❏ 2. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar onto each axle followed
by a 2-3/4" [70mm] wheel and then another 5/32" [4mm]
wheel collar. Mark the location of the threaded holes in the
wheel collars onto the axles. Use a fi le or rotary tool such as
a Dremel to grind fl at spots at the marks on the axles.
12
Page 13
❏ 3. Reinstall the wheel collars and wheels onto the axles.
Thread a 6-32 x 1/4" SHCS into each wheel collar and
tighten the screws against the fl at spots on the axles. Be
sure that the wheel rotates freely on the axle. Oil the axles
if necessary.
❏ 4. Attach the wheel pants to the landing gear legs using
four 2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine screws, four #2 fl at washers,
four #2 lock washers, and threadlocking compound.
Glow Engine Installation
The Matt Chapman Eagle 580 .46 ARF is designed to be
fl own with a .46 to .61 two-stroke glow engine, .52 to .81 fourstroke glow engine, or a brushless out-runner motor. If you
plan to install a brushless motor, skip this section as it only
contains information relevant to installing a glow engine.
A 4-stroke engine is shown in this section. The installation
of a 2-stroke engine will require the same procedure. A
Pitts style is recommended to minimize the amount
cutting required of the cowl. The stock muffl er can be
used. However, a section of the cowl will need to be cut
away to accommodate the muffl er body.
❏ 5. Attach the landing gear legs to the fuselage using four
6-32 x 5/8" [16mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock
washers, and threadlocking compound.
❏ 6. Secure the tail wheel to the tail wheel assembly with a 3/32"
[2.4mm] wheel collar and a 4-40 set screw. Be sure that the tail
wheel rotates freely on the axle. Oil the axle if necessary.
❏ 1. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system
consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffl er and a carb
line. Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be done
through the carb line, or an optional fuel fi ll valve (not included).
The tank can also be assembled as a three line system having
a vent line, carb line, and fi ll line. If installing a fi ll line, puncture
the top of the stopper above the sealed off fuel tube hole. The
fi ll and carb lines should extend out 1/2" [13mm] beyond the
stopper and the vent line should be bent upwards and left
uncut. With the tubes installed in the stopper, fi t the stopper
plates loosely in place with the 3 x 25mm Phillips screw to
hold the assembly together.
13
Page 14
TOP OF TANK
VENT
FILL AND CARB LINES
❏ 2. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent
line pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching.
The fuel tubing and clunks (fuel pickup) on the carb and fi ll
lines should almost reach the back of the tank but not touch.
The clunks must be able to move freely inside the tank when
assembled. Adjust the length of the fuel tubing accordingly.
When satisfi ed, tighten the 3 x 25mm screw in the stopper to
secure it in place (do not overtighten). Mark the side of the
tank that must face up when installed in the plane, and we
also suggest marking the tubes in the stopper.
tray. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material
by overlapping the mating ends by approximately 1" [25mm].
The total length of the strap will be determined by the size
of your receiver battery. Fit the strap through the slots in the
motor mounting box as shown.
❏ 4. Cut a piece of foam rubber to wrap around the pack and
securely strap it to the underside of the motor mounting box.
Feed the battery lead up through one of the lightening holes
in the mounting box and into the fuselage. We recommend
sealing the receiver pack (and foam rubber) in a plastic bag
to protect it from exhaust residue. Securely strap the receiver
pack to the motor mounting box.
❏ 3. For balancing purposes, a location is provided on the
underside of the motor mounting box for the receiver battery
when installing a lighter weight engine. The receiver battery
can also be installed behind the fuel tank or on the servo
❏ 5. Attach a 6" to 7" [152mm to 178mm] piece of fuel tubing
onto each line coming from the tank. Insert the tank into the
fuselage with the correct side facing up. Fit the neck of the
fuel tank through the hole in the fi rewall (if the tank neck
does not align with the hole in the fi rewall, rotate the stopper
assembly in the tank 180 degrees and fl ip the tank over).
14
Page 15
❏ 6. Glue the plywood fuel tank brace to the fuselage as
shown. The brace should be positioned against the back of
the tank.
❏ 7. If you are installing the O.S. 81FS-a engine, you will
need to trim away the nose gear bearing on the top side of the
engine mount as shown. A rotary tool works well for this.
❏ 8. Using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at
washers, four #6 lock washers, and threadlocking compound,
attach the engine mount side-mounted to the fi rewall so that
the engine head will be on the right side. Leave the screws
slightly loose. Test fi t your engine between the mount halves.
Slide the mount halves against the sides of the engine and
fi nish tightening the mount screws.
❏ 9. Position the front of the engine drive washer 4-7/8"
[124mm] from the front of the engine mounting box. Mark
the location of the engine mount holes onto the mount rails
using a Dead Center Hole Locator. Remove the engine from
the mount and use a 6-32 tap and drill set to create threads
in the four mounting holes. Attach the engine to the mount
using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers,
and four #6 lock washers.
15
Page 16
❏ 10. Install the throttle servo onto the throttle servo tray
using the hardware supplied with the servo. Be sure that the
throttle servo is not touching the elevator servo.
useful). Roughen the outside of the included outer pushrod
tube using 220-grit sandpaper. Slide the outer pushrod tube
through the hole you drilled in the fi rewall and through one
of the lightening holes in the second former. Fit the plywood
outer pushrod tube support over the aft end of the pushrod
tube, but do not glue it in place yet. Position the outer pushrod
tube so that it protrudes beyond the fi rewall approximately
2-1/4" [57mm]. Glue the outer pushrod tube to the hole in
the fi rewall.
❏ 12. Install a brass screw-lock connector onto the second
inner hole of the throttle servo arm using a nylon retainer.
Thread a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS loosely into the screwlock pushrod connector. Center the throttle servo using your
radio system and attach the arm to the servo with the servo
arm screw.
❏ 13. To make the throttle pushrod easier to work with inside
the fuselage, cut the remaining 36" [914mm] pushrod down to
approximately 21" long [ 533mm] (do not cut off the threaded
end). If you are installing an engine with a rear mounted carb,
also cut off a portion of the threaded end, leaving 1/2" [13mm].
Thread a nylon clevis onto the pushrod 20 complete turns and
install a silicone clevis retainer onto the clevis.
❏ 11. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole in the fi rewall inline with the
throttle arm on the carburetor (an extra long drill bit is very
16
Page 17
should be plugged with the included aluminum fuel line
plug and will conveniently fi t into the fi ll line clip. Be sure to
replace the fuel line plug after fi lling or draining the fuel tank.
The pressure line will be installed onto the muffl er after the
cowl installation section.
❏ 16. Seal up the electric cooling hole cutout with thick CA
or epoxy.
❏ 14. Insert the pushrod through the outer pushrod tube
and through the screw-lock pushrod connector on the throttle
servo arm. Connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the
carburetor. Make any necessary bends in the pushrod so the
pushrod can actuate the throttle without contacting the motor
mounting box. When satisfi ed, adjust the pushrod position in
the screw-lock pushrod connector so that the throttle servo
properly opens and closes the carburetor. Use the radio
system to test the operation of the throttle. Tighten the SHCS
in the screw-lock pushrod connector and cut off the excess
pushrod 1/4" [6mm] behind it. Glue the outer pushrod tube
support to the second former and glue the outer pushrod
tube to the outer pushrod tube support.
Brushless Motor Installation
The Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF is designed
to be fl own with a .46 to .61 two-stroke glow engine, .52 to
.81 four-stroke glow engine, or a brushless out-runner motor.
If you have installed a glow engine, skip this section as it only
contains information relevant to installing a brushless motor.
Be sure to read and understand the instructions that come
with the ESC and motor before attempting to operate the
system. Also read the lithium battery handling and usage
warning on page 26 of this manual.
❏ 15. CA glue the plywood fi ll line clip to the bottom center
of the fi rewall. The clip can be fuelproofed with epoxy. Cut
the fuel tubing coming from the tank to the proper length and
connect the carb line to the engine. The fi ll line (if installed)
❏ 1. In order to achieve the required distance from the
fi rewall to the face of the bolt-on prop adapter, the ends of
the motor mount halves must be cut shorter. A hacksaw
or rotary tool with a cutoff wheel work well for this. The aft
motor mount half must be shortened by 7/8" [22mm] and
the forward motor mount half must be shortened by 1/2"
[13mm]. Reassemble the motor mount using threadlocking compound on the mount screws.
17
Page 18
❏ 2. Attach the out-runner motor to the brushless motor
mount using the included 3 x 8mm machine screws and
threadlocking compound. If you haven’t done so yet, install
the prop adapter to the motor case with the hardware
included with the motor and threadlocking compound.
adapter is 4-7/8" [124mm] from the fi rewall. When adjusting
the aluminum motor mount, take care not to inadvertently
increase or decrease the amount of right thrust from what is
already built into the motor mounting box.
❏ 5. Knock out the cooling hole in the bottom of the fi rewall.
❏ 3. Attach the motor mount to the fi rewall using four
6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock
washers, and threadlocking compound.
❏ 4. Loosen the screws that join the aluminum motor mount
halves and slide them together so that the front of the prop
❏ 6. The mounting holes in the included ESC tray match
the mounting pattern of the recommended Great Planes
brushless ESC. Other brand speed controllers can be secured
to the tray with the included hook and loop material.
❏ 7. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material
by overlapping the mating ends by approximately 1" [25mm].
If you are installing the recommended Great Planes ESC,
make the strap 6" [152mm] long. If you are using a different
brand ESC, you can use the strap to secure the ESC to the
tray. The total length of the strap will be determined by the
size of the ESC.
18
Page 19
❏ 8. Secure the ESC tray to the underside of motor mounting
box using the hook and loop strap. Use three #4 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screws to attach the recommended
Great Planes ESC to the ESC tray.
❏ 10. Connect the motor lead wires to the ESC. Wrapping
the wires around the brushless motor mount will keep the
excess length neatly out of the way.
❏ 9. Use CA glue to attach the ABS air scoops to the sides
of the motor mounting box as shown.
❏ 11. Attach the hook side from a package of self-adhesive
hook and loop material (not included) to the center of the
battery tray. Cut it to length as needed. As you did for the
ESC, make another hook and loop strap from the included
material to secure the LiPo batteries to the tray. Fit the strap
through the slots in the tray as shown. Apply the loop side
from the self-adhesive hook and loop material to the packs
(use additional pieces to secure multiple packs together)
and test fi t it onto the tray. When you balance the airplane
after the assembly has been completed, the exact position
of the packs on the tray will be determined and you should
19
Page 20
mark this position on the tray for reference. Now would
also be a good time to confi rm that the motor will rotate the
correct direction by temporarily powering up the motor using
the ESC and your radio system (do not install a propeller
yet!). If the motor rotates the wrong direction (it should rotate
counterclockwise when viewing it from the front), disconnect
any two of the three motor leads and swap their position.
Install the Receiver
❏ 1. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material to
fi t your receiver. Connect the servos to the receiver, being sure
that the leads will not interfere with the tail surface pushrods.
Depending on the ESC being used (if applicable), you may
need a servo extension to reach the receiver. Cut a piece
of foam rubber (not included) to fi t your receiver and strap
the receiver in front of the tail servos as shown. A receiver
antenna tube is provided for FM and PCM receivers. Trim the
covering from the antenna tube exit slot if necessary.
To prevent the battery hook and loop strap ends from ever
falling down out of the slots in the tray, cut small pieces
of left over self-adhesive hook and loop material and
attach them in the locations shown. When you unstrap
the batteries from the tray, use the small pieces to hold
the strap ends up and out of the way while you remove
the batteries.
Although the strap could also be glued in place along
the underside of the tray, doing so will prevent you from
drawing the strap tightly around the packs. Allowing the
strap to fi t freely in the slots in the battery tray is the
preferred method.
❏ 2. If you installed a brushless motor, make another strap to
secure your receiver battery next to the receiver. For balancing
purposes, the receiver battery can also be installed in the front
of the plane above the ESC location.
❏ 3. Openings are provided on both sides of the fuselage
for mounting an on/off switch. The hole spacing is made for
a Futaba mini switch harness. If you are using a different
switch, you may need to modify the opening, or mount it in a
different location. An optional charge jack receptacle can be
mounted below the switch.
❏ 11. Cut the covering from the cool air exit on the underside
of the fuselage in the location shown.
❏ 4. Neatly bundle and secure the excess lengths of
servo leads out of the way. If you have a radio with mixing
capabilities, the aileron servos can be connected directly to
two different channels on the receiver when you install the
wing panels. If not, a Y-harness will need to be connected to
the aileron channel on the receiver.
20
Page 21
Finish the Model
❏ 1. Before fi tting the cowl,
make any cutouts necessary
for your power system. If you
are installing a glow engine, a
cutout must be made for the
engine head, exhaust, needle
valve access, and cool air
exit. A rotary tool such as a
Dremel works very well for
cutting holes in fi berglass. We
suggest proceeding slowly
with this step to achieve a
clean, accurate hole around
the engine head. Gradually
enlarge the hole as needed
checking your progress frequently. A paper template of the
engine head can be made. However, the cowl cheeks will
make a template more diffi cult to use.
❏ 3. Fit the cowl onto the fuselage. Use the spinner backplate
(you may need to enlarge the hole in the backplate to match
the size of your motor shaft) to center the position of the front
of the cowl 1/8" [3.2mm] behind the backplate. Be sure that
the colors on the cowl and fuselage are aligned. Temporarily
tape the cowl in place or have a helper hold the cowl. Measure
4" [102mm] along the lines from the aft marks on the tape and
mark the cowl where to drill the four cowl mounting holes.
❏ 2. Put 5" [127mm] strips of masking tape on the sides of
the fuselage parallel to the fuselage length (two per side) as
shown (reference the cowl blocks glued inside the fuselage
for placement of the tape). Make a mark 1/4" [6mm] behind
the front of the fi rewall on each piece of tape. Use a ruler to
accurately draw a 4" [102mm] line from the mark onto the
tape. Make a mark at the aft end of each line.
❏ 4. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes at the marks you made on
the cowl through the cowl and fuselage (take care not to drill
into the fuel tank). Remove the cowl and thread a #4 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hole in the fuselage
and back it out. Apply a couple drops of thin CA to each
hole. Enlarge the four holes in the cowl with a 1/8" [3.2mm]
bit. Install the cowl onto the fuselage using four #4 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screws and four #4 fl at washers.
21
Page 22
❏ 5. If you haven’t done so already, attach the muffl er to the
engine and connect the vent line from the fuel tank to the
muffl er. Trim it to length if needed.
❏ 6. Install your propeller using the prop washer and nut
that came with the motor. Enlarge the propeller slots in the
spinner cone as necessary to fi t over the propeller blades.
When satisfi ed, install the spinner cone onto the backplate
using the provided screws.
❏ 8. Install the canopy hatch by fi tting the canopy pins into their
mating holes in the fi rewall, pushing the back of the hatch down
against the fuselage, then sliding the hatch back to engage the
magnets. You have now completed the assembly!
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap and water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
❏ 7. To install the wing panels, insert the carbon fi ber wing
joiner into the tube in the fuselage. Slide the wing panels onto
the tube, feed the aileron servo leads through the openings
in the fuselage side, and align the anti-rotation pins with their
mating holes. Bolt the wings in place using the 1/4"-20 nylon
wing bolts. Connect the aileron servo leads to the receiver.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Use the pictures
on the box and manual cover for reference. Holding the decal
down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
22
Page 23
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Install & Operate the Motor Battery
(Brushless Only)
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected
with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through
the adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately.
Charge the batteries, then read the following precautions on
how to connect multiple packs for fl ying the model:
batteries that have a higher voltage. Current will fl ow from
the higher voltage battery into the lower one, essentially
“charging” the lower voltage battery pack. This situation will
likely cause heat and possibly a fi re.
NO!!
BATTERY PRECAUTIONS: There are two ways to connect
multiple battery packs: In Series and in Parallel.
These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3200mAh
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
OKAY
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
❏ 1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (–)’s and the (–)’s to the (+)’s. This combines the
voltages of the batteries, but the capacity remains the same.
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
OKAY
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500mAh
NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in
series or in parallel.
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500mAh
This is a PARALLEL battery
adapter (GPMM3142) that
connects two batteries in parallel.
❏ 2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (+)’s and the (-)’s to the (-)’s. This combines the
capacities of the batteries, but the voltage remains the same.
NO!!
NEVER connect battery packs with different voltages
in parallel! Only combine them in series. Otherwise, the
batteries with lower voltage will try to “equalize” with the
FULL
THROTTLE
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
23
Page 24
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low rate
setting. Note: The throws are measured at the widest part
of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and may
determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many fl ights,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine or
brushless motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and
battery pack if applicable).
❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-3/4" [95mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
3D RATE
Up
Down
ELEVATOR
RUDDER
AILERONS
The suggested control throw rates provided in this section
may appear to be small in comparison to other aerobatic
models similar in size. We do not suggest increasing the
rates until after you have made initial fl ights using the
provided high rates. Also, it is recommended to add 40%
exponential to all control surfaces. This can be changed to
suit your fl ying preference after you become accustomed to
the fl ight characteristics of the Eagle.
IMPORTANT: The Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP
ARF has been extensively fl own and tested to arrive
at the throws at which it fl ies best. Flying your model at
these throws will provide you with the greatest chance
for successful fi rst fl ights. If, after you have become
accustomed to the way the Eagle 580 Matt Chapman
.46-.81/EP ARF fl ies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However, too much
control throw could make the model diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
2-3/8"
[60mm]
Right
[
76mm
1-3/4"
[
44mm
35°
3"
28°
Up
26°
2-3/8"
[60mm]
35°
Left
]
[
76mm
28°
Down
1-3/4"
]
[
44mm
26°
3"
HIGH RATE
Up
11/16"
[
17mm
10°
Right
2-1/4"
[
]
57mm
20°
Up
15/16"
[24mm]
]
14°
Down
11/16"
]
[
17mm
10°
Left
2-1/4"
]
[
57mm
20°
Down
15/16"
[24mm]
14°
LOW RATE
Up
3/8"
[10mm]
]
5°
Right
1-3/4"
[44
]
16°
Up
1/4"
[6
mm
4°
mm
Down
[10mm]
1-3/4"
]
[44mm]
Down
]
[6mm]
3/8"
5°
Left
16°
1/4"
4°
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst
fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/4" [6mm] back to
change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for takeoff and make it more
diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes
the model more maneuverable, but could also cause it
to become too diffi cult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on a Great Planes C.G. Machine, or
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model
is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be
shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If
possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize or
eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight is
required, nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinner
weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646
for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner weight is not practical or
is not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead.
A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the fi rewall
24
Page 25
(don’t attach weight to the cowl–it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the bottom of the fuselage over the fi rewall until
the model balances. Once you have determined the amount
of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuselage and gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or
epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuselage under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
Balance Propellers
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wingtip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the
identifi cation tag on page 31 and place it inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go fl ying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the
next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your
choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the
batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be
fl ying with batteries that are only partially charged.
We use a Top Flite® Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confi rm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly
to full power and maintains full power–indefi nitely. After you run
the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make
sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop
is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces
do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the
problem fi rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
25
Page 26
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore,
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
the engine.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel
line or following the engine manufacturer’s recommendations.
Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other body part to try to
stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off
switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw
anything into the propeller of a running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:
This does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight
line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications
Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
LITHIUM BATTERY
HANDLING & USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included
with your battery. Failure to follow all instructions
could cause permanent damage to the battery and its
surroundings, and cause bodily harm!
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed 150° F
[65° C].
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or
puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 3.0V per cell.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave unattended
during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
26
Page 27
CHECKLIST
FLYING
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuselage. Simply stuffi ng them into
place with foam rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏ 4. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
instructions.
❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
❏ 9. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.
❏ 12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
❏ 13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
high temp RTV silicone, threadlocking compound or
J.B. Weld.
❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
not kinked.
❏ 15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your fi rst fl ight.
❏ 20. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
27
The Eagle 580 Matt Chapman .46-.81/EP ARF is a greatfl ying model that fl ies smoothly and predictably. The Eagle
does not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics
of a primary R/C trainer and should be fl own only by
experienced R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below
peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, fl utter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the fl ying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by
an impending crash. The best thing to do when fl utter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify
which surface fl uttered (so the problem may be resolved)
by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or
signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play. If it fl uttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably fl utter again unless the
problem is fi xed. Some things which can cause fl utter are;
Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly;
Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods
caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo
gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most
prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an over-powered model
at excessive speeds.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready,
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up
elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel
steering, and then gradually advance the throttle. As the
Page 28
model gains speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail
to come off the ground. One of the most important things to
remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much
speed as your runway and fl ying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffi c pattern.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
3D FLYING
Take it easy with the Eagle for the fi rst few fl ights, gradually
getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence. Adjust the
trims to maintain straight and level fl ight. After fl ying around
for a while and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel,
practice slow fl ight and execute practice landing approaches
by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at
slower speeds. Add power to see how the model climbs as
well. Continue to fl y around, executing various maneuvers
and making mental notes (or having your assistant write
them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required
to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way you like. Mind your
fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to become familiar with your
model before landing.
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway (into
the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and
control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway
threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain
your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot,
smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right
rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another
attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing fl are and
the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up
elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on the
runway and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the
tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
Because of the power-to-weight ratio on 3D planes, straightand-level fl ight should be at a reduced throttle and full power
should be used only when the airplane is “loaded” during
a maneuver. Learn to manage the throttle and experiment
while in the maneuver. The power needed will depend on the
maneuver being performed. C.G. also plays a large role in
the 3D capability of models as well. Experiment, but keep in
mind that being tail heavy is not always the best way to go.
Another thing to remember is that maximum control throw is
not necessary for all 3D maneuvers. Occasionally, too much
throw can place the model too far into a stall, causing it to
become uncontrollable. Practice your maneuvers at a higher
altitude while you become accustomed to your particular
plane’s stall characteristics.
WATERFALLS
With the model pointing vertically (almost in a hover), push
full down elevator and full throttle. As the model rotates and
begins to point downwards, reduce the throttle (to keep the
model from being pulled downwards). As the model fl attens
out, add power to pull the model around. Many models will
require some rudder correction (usually right rudder) during
this maneuver. Some planes will require aileron correction to
keep the wings level.
28
Page 29
UPRIGHT FLAT SPINS
Pull the nose up slightly and slowly decrease power. As the
model slows to a few mph, slowly apply full left rudder and
power. Next, start adding up elevator as needed to keep the
model fl at in the spin. Most airplanes will require some aileron
as well to keep the wings level. This is one of the maneuvers
to experiment on; try different C.G. positions and different
amounts of throw and power to see how fl at the spin will go.
It is possible to maintain altitude in the fl at spin and in some
cases it is also possible to climb during the spin.
VERTICAL HOVER
Fly a straight pass across the fi eld at 75ft high and 100ft out
and pull the model vertical. Roll the model until the top of it is
facing you and slowly begin to reduce power. As the model
begins to slow down to 10 mph or so, slowly add a little bit of
power back in. You will have to adjust the throttle as needed,
but make your adjustments smooth. Some right aileron may
be needed to keep the model from torque rolling. Use the
rudder and elevator to keep the nose pointing straight up. Be
patient as this maneuver will take a while to learn.
INVERTED FLAT SPINS
This is the same as the up-right fl at spin except most planes
like to spin in the opposite direction, for example: right rudder
and down elevator.
THE WALL
Fly straight across the fi eld at a moderate speed and simply
pull full up until vertical. Adjust the power as necessary to
maintain a hover.
KNIFE EDGE TUMBLE
This is an impressive looking maneuver that really isn’t as
diffi cult as it looks. (Before learning this maneuver you must
be able to confi dently Snap and Tumble your plane and stop
the aircraft exactly, without over rotating.) Fly the model
Knife Edge from the right at a moderate airspeed, using
just enough rudder to maintain Knife Edge, not climbing or
diving. Perform one full right negative Tumble by maintaining
your rudder setting while applying full throttle, full down
elevator, and full right aileron, releasing in time to end again
fl ying Knife Edge to the right. Note that you may need to use
some positive elevator and/or left aileron to stop the Tumble
at exactly Knife Edge. This maneuver is easier to the right
because torque helps stop the Tumble and it can be done at
varied airspeeds with proper throttle and rudder modulation.
TORQUE ROLL
This is the same as the vertical hover but without the use of
right aileron to keep the model from rolling. If needed, you
can use a little left aileron to speed the roll up. As the model
rotates around, the controls will appear to be reversed to you
but only the orientation of the model has changed.
HARRIER
The harrier is nothing more than a high angle of attack fl ying
stall. Check the stall characteristics of your plane before
proceeding with this maneuver. Bring your plane across the
fi eld at 75ft high and 100ft out away from yourself. Slowly
pull back on the elevator while reducing throttle. The nose of
the plane should come up. Depending on the plane/setup,
you may have to make constant aileron (wing walking) and
rudder corrections for this maneuver. As the nose of the plane
comes up, start adding in a little bit of power to help maintain
airspeed. The rudder is now used to turn the model. This
maneuver will take some practice as there are a lot of small
corrections made to keep most planes in the maneuver.
This is one maneuver where less control is needed. Too
much elevator and the model goes into an uncontrollable
stall. The C.G. of the plane will have a large effect on the
stability of the model during this maneuver. Some planes
perform better with more elevator defl ection and a farther
forward C.G. while other planes prefer a further aft C.G. and
less elevator defl ection. Elevator to fl ap mixing can be used
on airplanes with marginal wing area, and some planes won’t
stall so elevator to spoileron mixing will be needed.
29
Page 30
ROLLING HARRIER
Once you get comfortable with the up-right harrier, it’s time to work
rolls into the mix. From an up-right harrier, add in left aileron and
change from up elevator to down elevator when inverted. If you
are comfortable with four point rolls and slow rolls, inputting rudder
on the knife edges can improve the maneuver considerably. To
turn the model, simply input the elevator or rudder a little sooner
or later in the rotation. It’s all a matter of timing.
PINWHEEL
Climb vertically and bring the model to a vertical hover, but do
not stop long enough to let the torque pull the model around
(climbing or sliding slightly will not be noticeable to spectators
but will keep air fl owing over the ailerons and provide you roll
authority to stop the torque). When the model is hanging,
rock the plane left with rudder, then apply full throttle and
full right rudder and hold both, completing 3/4 of a VERY
tight Knife Edge Loop and fl ying out Knife Edge. When done
correctly, the plane pivots around the wingtip in a very small
area. This maneuver can be done in either direction.
OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM GREAT PLANES
™
Wingspan: 50 in (1270 mm)
Wingspan: 58 in (1475 mm)
Wing Area: 745 sq in (48.1 dm2)
Weight: 5.25 - 6.25 lb (2.41 - 2.72 kg)
Wing Loading:16 - 18 oz/sq ft (50-57 g/dm2)
Length: 59 in (1500 mm)
Requires: 4+ channel radio w/5 mini servos (50 oz-in of torque, min.)
Electric Power Option: Brushless out-runner motor,
60A brushless ESC, two 11.1V, 3200mAh LiPo batteries (in series) and charger
Glow Power Option: 2-stroke .46-.51 or 4-stroke .70 engine, 1 additional servo,
glow fuel and support equipment
Precision pattern plane — or all-out 3D aerobat? You decide. The Reactor excels at both. It doesn’t matter whether you go with glow power
or equip it with a brushless electric motor — you’ll enjoy outstanding performance either way, thanks to its all-wood construction for
light, strong structures, and a pure sport design with none of the compromises that scale planes require. The result: a rocket-sleek plane
with maxed-out performance potential. The mid-wing design and thin airfoil (9% thick vs.13-14%) offer exceptional precision and a wide
performance envelope, plus confi dence-inspiring stability at slow speeds. Assembly is anything but slow — prebuilt structures, MonoKote
covering and painted fi berglass parts cut it to just 5-6 hours, start to fi nish. GPMA1021
30
Page 31
O.S.® 81FS-a Ringed 4-Stroke
The 81FS-a delivers more performance power for sport pilots and
more realistic fl ight for scale pilots — and for easy upgrades, features
the same mounting bolt pattern, distance between crankcase and
prop and throttle lever positions as the FS-70SII! A rubber O-ring
on the muffl er’s multi-positional manifold helps prevent oil leakage,
while the specially designed lubrication system eliminates the need
for crankcase ventilation. Its 60RA carburetor is venturi-equipped,
reducing the chance of fuel leaks, while also creating more positive
air/fuel fl ow. OSMG0981
Displacement: 0.809 cu in (13.26 cc)
Bore: 1.091 in (27.7 mm)
Stroke: 0.866 in (22.0 mm)
Weight w/muffl er: 21.5 oz (610 g)
Practical RPM Range: 2,200-12,000
Output: 1.3 hp @ 11,000 rpm
Includes: 60RA carburetor, F-5030 muffl er & F glow plug
Acclaimed aviator Matt Chapman is famous for thrilling crowds with his jaw-dropping
aerobatics at air shows worldwide. Now you can impress your friends at your local fl ying
fi eld with this offi cially licensed, 50” span reproduction of his Eagle 580! Its ultra-light
airframe and airfoiled control surfaces offer precision tracking and incredible agility.
State-of-the-art materials – including carbon fi ber, hand-selected woods and fi berglass
– accelerate assembly time to just 6-8 hours. A factory-applied MonoKote® trim scheme
adds eye-catching looks, while die-cut decals let you recreate Matt Chapman’s EmbryRiddle-inspired design – or create a custom look of your own. GPMA1573
Make a copy of this identifi cation tag
and put it on or inside your model.
31
Page 32
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