GREAT PLANES Little Toni ARF Instruction Manual

Page 1
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim, send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at this address.
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number , e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
GPMZ0294 for GPMA1320 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2004
Champaign, Illinois
Telephone: (217) 398-8970 ext. 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WARRANTY
Wingspan: 63 in [1600mm] Wing Area: 775 sq in [50 dm2] Weight: 7.25 - 8.25 lb [3290 - 3740 g] Wing Loading: 21.5 - 24.5 oz/sq ft [65 - 75 g/dm2] Length: 56.5 in [1435mm] Radio: 4-channel, 5 servos Engine: .61cu in [10cc] two-stroke,
.91cu in [15cc] four-stroke
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA
Page 2
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
IMAA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Scale Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Engine Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Additional Items Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Optional Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
KIT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Ordering Replacement Parts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
PREPARATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Install the Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Install the Aileron Servos and Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Join the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Install the Stab, Elevators and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Install the Landing Gear and Wheel Pants . . . . . . . . . 12
Install the Engine, Fuel Tank and Throttle Ser vo . . . . 13
Install the Cowl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Install the Radio System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
FINAL TOUCHES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Check the Control Directions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Set the Control Throws. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Balance the Model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Balance the Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Charge the Batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Balance Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Ground Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CHECK LIST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
The Great Planes
®
“Little Toni” ARF is a great flying reproduction of the 1940’s racer. Not only does it have the great looks but it is also a pleasure to fly.You will be amazed at how fast it flies and yet slows to a crawl for landing.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Little Toni visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Little Toni ARF. If there is new technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
The Great Planes Little Toni is an excellent sport-scale model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events. The IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant­scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone number below, or by logging on to their web site at:
www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.
IMAA
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
(913) 823-5569
Though the Great Planes Little Toni is an ARF and may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless and is therefore eligible to compete in the
Fun Scale
class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable reports of Great Planes ARF’s in scale competition!).In Fun Scale, the “builder of the model”rule does not apply. To receive the five points for scale documentation, the only proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in this paint/markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo , or a profile painting, etc.If the photo is in black and white, other written documentation of color must be provided.Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size Little Toni for scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Y uk on Av e
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Telephone: (714) 979-8058
Fax:(714) 979-7279
e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com
Scale Competition
IMAA
INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS
2
Page 3
1.Your Little Toni should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Little Toni, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2.Y ou must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
6.You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.
8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
If you have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend y ou join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
Four channel radio Four 54 oz-in servos and one 30 oz-in servo. Two 6" [150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701 for Futaba) Y-harness (HCAM2751 for Futaba) 500 mAh battery or greater
We have installed both a two and a four stroke engine in our prototypes.The two-stroke engine requires much of the cowl to be cut away while the f our-strok e maintains most of the integrity of the cowl.If a more “scale”look is desired, we recommend the four-stroke engine option over the two-stroke.
.61cu in [10cc] two-stroke, .91cu in [15cc] four-stroke
Engine Recommendations
Radio Equipment
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES
NOTE:We, as the kit manuf acturer , provide y ou with a top quality
kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of your finished model depends on how you build it;therefore , we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
3
Page 4
4
The following is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the Little Toni.Order numbers are pro vided in parentheses.
R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or 1/2"
[13mm] - HCAQ1050)
William’s Brother’s #626 1/4-scale spor tsman pilot
(WBRQ2626)
1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro™CA (GPMR6001) ❏ 1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.4mm],
1/8" [3.2mm], 3/16" [4.8mm], 9/64" [3.6mm]
8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)Top Flite®MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100) ❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)Propeller (as recommended by the engine
manufacturer)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Little Toni.
2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)CA debonder (GPMR6039)Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)Mixing cups (GPMR8056)36" metal ruler (HCAR0475)
Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts
(HCAR0667)
Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
18" x 24" [460 x 610mm] Builder’s Cutting Mat
(HCAR0455)
Hobbico®Duster™can of compressed air (HCAR5500) ❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)Rotary tool such as Dremel
®
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator
(GPMR8130)
AccuThrow™Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405) ❏ CG Machine™(GPMR2400) ❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™(TOPQ5700)
There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sheet metal screwsare designated by a number and a length.
For example #6 x 3/4"
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.
Machine screws are designated by a number , threads per inch, and a length.
For example 4-40 x 3/4"
This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty threads per inch
.
·
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or
custom fit
the part as necessar y for the best fit.
·
Whenever the term
glue
is written you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the instructions will make a recommendation.
·
Whenever just
epoxy
is specified you may use
either
30­minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
·
Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.
·
The Little Toni ARF is factory-covered with Top Flite
®
MonoKote®film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions for application. Following are the colors used on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
True Red (TOPQ0227)
(continued on page 6)
Important Building Notes
Optional Supplies and Tools
Additional Items Required
Page 5
5
PARTS PHOTOGRAPHED
1. Canopy
2. Cowl
3. Fuselage
4. Engine Mount
5. Landing Gear
6.Wheel Pants
7.Wheels
8.Horizontal Stab & Elevators
9. Rudder
10. Fuel T ank
11. Spinner & Backplate
12.Tail Wheel Assembly
13. Left Wing & Aileron
14. Right Wing & Aileron
15.Wing Joiner
16.Wing Bolt Plate
Qty
5/32" x 2" Axle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Brass Body EZ Connector. . . . . . . 2
4-40 Blind Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
4-40 nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
8-32 Blind Nut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
5/16 - 24 Lock Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1/4-20 Blind Nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Large Nylon Control Horn . . . . . . . 5
Nylon Torque Rod Bearing. . . . . . . 1
1/4-20 Nylon Wing Bolt . . . . . . . . . 2
Nylon Clevis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Nylon Retainer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
2" x 9" Hinge Material . . . . . . . . . . 1
FasLink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Grey Plastic Outer Pushrod 24". . . 4
Silicone Clevis Retainer. . . . . . . . . 5
2-56 x 5/8" machine Screw. . . . . . 10
6-32 X 1/8" Set Screw . . . . . . . . . 2
6-32 x 1/4"SHCS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
4-40 set screw. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
#2 x 3/8" Sheet Metal Screw. . . . . 12
Qty
#4 x 3/8" SMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
4-40 x 1/2" machine screw. . . . . . . 4
#2 x3/8" Wood Screw . . . . . . . . . . 4
8-32 x 1 1/4" SHCS. . . . . . . . . . . . 4
8-32 x 1" SHCS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
4-40 x 1/8" SHCS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
8-32 x 3/4" FH machine screw . . . . 4
3/32" Wheel Collar. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
5/32" Wheel Collar. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1 1/4" tailwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
.074 wire Threaded 1 End 36". . . . 4
.074 x 6" Pushrod Wire . . . . . . . . . 2
4-40 x 12" thread wire . . . . . . . . . . 1
#4 Lock Washer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
#4 flat washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
#2 Flat Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
#8 Lock Washers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
#8 Flat Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Parts Layout
Before starting to build, take an inv entory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
13
15
16
9
6
4
5
10
11
12
1
2
3
8
7
14
PARTS NOT PHOTOGRAPHED
KIT INSPECTION
Page 6
(continued from page 4)
·
The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles have been factory-built into this model. However, some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web site at greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances, which will have little or no effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight deviations between your model and the published values.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT
WORKING WITH FIBERGLASS
If you have never worked with fiberglass there are a few basic things you should be aware of.
1. When cutting fiberglass, be sure you are cutting the correct place. Unlike wood, you are not able to go back and easily fix a mistake.
2.Whenever you are gluing a part to the inside of fiberglass it is important to roughen the inside surface of the fiberglass with 220-grit sandpaper, then wipe the area with rubbing alcohol. The molding process leaves a waxy residue that can prevent a good bond between the glue and the parts being glued.
3.If you do not ha ve a high-speed motor tool such as a Dremel
tool you should consider purchasing one or borrowing one from a fellow modeler .This, combined with a fiberglass cut-off wheel, will be extremely helpful in the assembly process.
WARNING:The cowl, wheel pants and fuselage included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Little Toni ARF are available using the order n umbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company. Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services, but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at www.hob bico .com.Choose "Where to Buy" at the bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S ., Canadian or International dealer.If a hobby shop is not available, replacement parts may also be ordered from Tower Hobbies at www .to werhobbies.com, or by calling toll free (800) 637-6050, or from Hobby Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721. If ordering via fax, include a Visa or MasterCard number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact the appropriate Product Support by e-mail or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
productsupport@greatplanes.com
Replacement Parts List
Or
der Number Description How to purchase
GPMA2400 . . . . . Wing Kit . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2401 . . . . . Fuse Kit . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2404 . . . . . Tail Set . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2402 . . . . . Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2405 . . . . . Canopy . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2403 . . . . . Landing Gear . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2406 . . . . . Wheel Pants . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2407 . . . . . Spinner . . . . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
GPMA2408 . . . . . Decal Sheet . . . . . . .Hobby Supplier
Missing pieces. . . . . Product Support
Instruction manual . . Product Suppor t
Full-size plans . . . . . Not available
Ordering Replacement Parts
1/64" = .4mm 1/32" = .8mm 1/16" = 1.6mm 3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm 5/32" = 4mm 3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm 12" = 304.8mm 15" = 381mm 18" = 457.2mm 21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6mm 30" = 762mm 36" = 914.4mm
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
Metric Conversions
6
Page 7
1. If you have not done so already, remove the major
parts of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Suppor t at the address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection” section on page 5.
2. Carefully remove the tape and separate the ailerons
from the wing and the elevators from the stab. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on high heat to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
Do the right wing first so your work matches the photos the first time through.You can do one wing at a time, or work on them together.
❏❏1. Dr ill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep in the
center of each hinge slot to allow the CA to “wick”in. Follow­up with a #11 blade to clean out the slots. Hint: If you have one, use a high-speed rotary tool to drill the holes.
❏❏2.Use a sharp #11 blade to cut a strip of covering from
the hinge slots in the wing and aileron.
❏❏3. Cut five 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the CA
hinge strip. Snip off the cor ners so they go in easier.
❏❏4. Test fit the ailerons to the wing with the hinges. If
the hinges don’t remain centered, stick a pin through the middle of the hinge to hold it in position.
❏❏5. Remove any pins you may have inserted into the
hinges. Adjust the aileron so there is a small gap between the LE of the aileron and the wing. The gap should be small, just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through.
❏❏6. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of
each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has fully cured, test the hinges by pulling on the aileron.
7. Repeat steps 1- 6 for the left wing panel.
Install the Ailerons
BUILD THE WING
PREPARATIONS
7
Page 8
❏❏1. Installing the ser vos in the wing will require the use
of one 6" [152mm] servo extension for each aileron. One Y-harness connector is required and is used to allow the aileron servos to plug into one slot in your receiver.You may have a computer radio that allows you to plug the servos into separate slots and mix them together through the radio transmitter. If you choose to mix them with the radio rather than the Y-harness, refer to the instructions with your particular brand of radio.
❏❏2. Remove the tape holding the servo cover to the
fuselage. Locate two 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/4" [13 x13 x 19mm] hardwood blocks.Place the blocks against the sides of your aileron servo. When positioning the blocks they should be slightly higher than the servo case. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the blocks for the servo screws. Using the hardware included with your radio system, screw the servos to the two blocks.
❏❏3. Apply 6-minute epoxy to each block. Position the
blocks so that the servo arm is centered over the opening in the cover. Clamp the blocks to the cover .When the glue has cured remove the clamps.
❏❏4. Mark the center of the hardwood blocks on the
cover. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the marks, drilling through the blocks. Install a #2 x 3/8" [9mm] wood screw into each of the holes tightening them against the cover.
❏❏5. Attach the servo extension to the aileron servo.
Secure the connectors together using a large piece of heat shrink tubing, tape or other method.
❏❏6. Located in the wing in the ser vo compar tment, a
string is taped to the wing skin. Tie the string to the end of the servo wire.Pull the servo wire through the wing with the string.Feed the servo wire out the hole in the top of the wing center section.Tape the servo wire to the wing to prevent it from falling back into the wing.
❏❏7. Center the servo and install a ser vo arm as shown.
Test fit the servo cover into the wing.Depending on the size and mounting position of your particular servo you may need to trim away some of the wood edge the cover rests on.T rim as needed to allow the servo cov er to be positioned properly in the wing.
Install the Aileron Servos & Pushrods
8
Page 9
❏❏8. Place the cover in place on the wing. Drill a 1/16"
[1.6mm] hole through each of the pre-drilled mounting holes. Remove the cover from the wing. Install and remove a #2 x 3/8" [9mm] sheet metal screw into each of the four holes. Inser t a drop of thin CA into the holes to harden the wood.After the clue has cured, install the cover with four #2 x 3/8" [9mm] sheet metal screws and four #2 flat washers.
❏❏9. Position a large nylon control horn on the aileron,
positioning it as shown in the sketch and aligning it with the servo. Mark the location for the screw holes. Drill through the marks you made with a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit, drilling through the aileron. Secure the control horn to the aileron with two 2-56 x 5/8" [16mm] machine screws and the nylon mounting plate.
❏❏10. Locate a .074" x 6" [.074" x 152mm] pushrod wire
threaded on one end. Screw a nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wire 20 full turns.Install a silicone clevis keeper onto the clevis, then install the clevis in the second hole from the end of the aileron control horn.
❏❏11. Be sure the aileron ser vo is centered. Enlarge the
first hole in the servo arm with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit). Center the aileron and align the wire pushrod with the hole in the end of the servo arm. Using a marker, mark the location where the wire aligns with the hole in the servo arm. On that mark make a 90 degree bend. From the bend measure an additional 3/16" [4.8mm] then cut off the excess pushrod wire.
❏❏12. Install the wire into the hole in the servo arm using
a nylon FasLink as shown in the sketch.
13. Repeat steps 1-12 for the left wing panel
9
Page 10
1. Locate the hardwood wing joiner.Notice that the joiner
is cut with a double taper. Test fit the joiner into both wing halves to see exactly how it fits into the wing, making sure that it is not too tight. Sand the joiner as needed to get a good fit.
2. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all sides of the wing joiner,
the joiner pocket in both wing panels and the root rib of each wing panel. Push the wing panels together and hold them in place with masking tape. Before the glue cures, set the wing flat on your bench and measure the dihedral.The distance from the top of the bench to the center of the wing as measured at the wing tip should be approximately 6" [152mm]. Block the wingtip up while the glue cures.
Note:
Due to production techniques there may be some variance in the actual dihedral of each model. Our prototypes flew well with the dihedral anywhere between 5-3/4" and 6-1/2" [146mm and 165mm].
3. Set the wing aside allowing the glue to cure.
4. Place the plywood wing bolt mounting plate in
position on the bottom of the wing, over the wing bolt holes. Using a fine tip marker, trace the outline of the plate onto the wing. Use a sharp #11 hobby knife or use the Expert Tip that follows to cut the covering from the wing along the lines you have marked. Use care to cut only into the covering and not into the wood.
5. Glue the plywood wing bolt plate to the wing.
6. Fit the wing to the fuselage with two 1/4 - 20 nylon
wing bolts.
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the stab.The tip of the soldering iron doesn't have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut. Peel off the covering.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Join the Wings
10
Page 11
1. Test fit the stab into the opening in the back of the
fuselage. Stand back and look at the stab in relation to the wing.The stab should be parallel with the wing.If not, sand the stab saddle until the stab and wing are aligned.
2. Measure the distance from the tip of the stab to the tip of
each wing. Adjust the position of the stab until both are equal.
3. Mark the sides of the fuselage onto the top and bottom
of the stab with a fine tip marker. Cut the covering away from the center of the stab using the same method used on the wing. Reinsert the stab into the fuselage, double checking the alignment with the wing.
4. When satisfied with the fit of the stab, use thin CA with
a CA applicator tip to wick glue into the stab saddle. Apply
the glue to the top, bottom and both sides of the fuselage. Allow the glue to fully cure before moving.After the glue has cured remove the wing from the fuselage. Hint: Do not use any accelerator.This will most likely cause the glue to get a white haze on the fuselage and stab.Allow the plane to sit for approximately 5 minutes until the glue is completely cured.
5. Cut six hinges (three for each elevator half) from the
hinge material. Install the two elevator halves using the same method used for the ailerons. Once you are satisfied with the positioning of the elevators , glue them in place with thin CA the same as was done on the ailerons.
6. Locate the tail wheel wire. Test fit the nylon bushing
into the slot at the bottom of the rudder post. Make any needed adjustments to the slot to get a good fit. Apply a couple of drops of oil to the wire where it passes through the nylon bushing to prevent glue from getting into the bushing. Apply epoxy to both sides of the nylon bushing and insert it into the slot. Allow the glue to cure.
7. Cut three more hinges and insert them into the rudder
using the same technique you used on the elev ators.Before installing the rudder to the fin, apply a small amount of epoxy into the hole that is drilled in the bottom of the rudder. Quickly move to the next step.
Install the Stab, Elevators & Rudder
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
11
Page 12
8. Insert the rudder onto the fin, installing the hinges into
the fin and inserting the tail wheel wire into the hole you applied the epoxy in.Position the rudder and then apply thin CA onto the hinges.
This completes the installation of the tail surfaces.You will finish the installation of the control horns and pushrods when you perform the radio installation.
❏❏1. Bolt the landing gear to the fuselage with four 8-32
x 3/4" [19mm] flat head machine screws. Apply a drop of thread lock to the threads before screwing them into the fuselage. When installing the gear, the taper should be to the back of the fuselage.
❏❏2. Cut both axles to a length of 1-3/8" [35mm]. A high
speed rotary tool with a cut-off wheel works well for this application.
❏❏3. File a flat spot on the end of the axle. A high speed
rotary tool works well for this also.
❏❏4. Inser t a 6-32 set screw into a 5/32" [4mm] wheel
collar. Slide it onto the axle. Slide the wheel onto the axle and then slide on another 5/32" wheel collar. Screw a 6-32 x1/4" [6mm] socket head cap screw into the wheel collar with a drop of threadlocker. Center the wheel, then tighten the set screws on the wheel collars.
❏❏5. Slide the wheel pant over the wheel. Attach the
wheel pant to the landing gear with two 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] machine screws, #4 flat washers and #4 lock washers. Apply a drop of threadlocker to each screw.
6. Repeat step 1-5 for the other wheel pant.
Install the Landing Gear
and Wheel Pants
12
Page 13
7. Install the tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire. Lock it in
place with a 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar and a 4-40 set screw with a drop of threadlocker.
1.Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to extend the crossing lines
on the firewall. Cut out the engine mounting pattern on page 27 of this manual. Tape it on the firewall aligning the lines on the pattern with the lines on the firewall.
2. Use a 3/16" [4.8mm] bit to drill through the firewall at
the marks on the engine mounting pattern.
3. Install four 8-32 blind nuts into the backside of the
firewall. We have included a 4-40 x 12" [305mm] rod threaded on one end to assist you with this process.Screw a 4-40 nut onto the threaded end of the rod.Slide a blind nut (flat side of the blind nut toward the nut) onto the rod. Insert the wire through the inside of the fuselage, through one of the holes you drilled in the firewall.Pull on the wire until the blind nut pulls into the firewall. Remove the wire. Carefully screw an 8-32 x 1" [25mm] socket head cap scre w with a #8 flat washer into the blind nut. Tighten the bolt and washer against the firewall until the blind nut is pulled firmly against the firewall.Remove the socket head cap screw. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three blind nuts.
4. Install the engine mount to the firewall using four each
8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] socket head cap screws, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers. When installing the mount, use your engine to determine the spacing needed for the mounting rails.
The following engine mounting instructions apply to both the two-stroke and four-stroke engines. As mentioned earlier in the instructions, the four-stroke engine lea v es much more of the cowl intact than will the two-stroke.We have included a picture of a two-stroke installation that is most likely the worst case scenariobecause of the very large muffler.You will notice that to install this muffler we had to cut away a portion of the firewall. We did test fly the plane in this configuration and have determined it does not affect the structural integrity. Should you have to cut a portion of the fuselage/ firewall to clear your muffler, you may need to insert an additional hardwood block (not included) inside of the fuselage for mounting the cowl. You may also wish to build a box inside of the fuselage to prevent fuel residue from getting inside the fuselage.
Install the Engine, Fuel Tank
and Throttle Servo
13
Page 14
5. Position the engine in the mount so the distance from the
front of the firewall to the front of the thrust washer measures 5-5/16" [135mm].Mark the location of the engine on the mount. The Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130) works well for this. Drill through the marks you have made on the engine mount with a #29 or 9/64" [3.6mm] drill bit.Tap each of the holes with an 8-32 tap.
6.Install the engine onto the mount with four each, 8-32 x 1" [25mm] socket head cap screws, #8 flat washers and # 8 lock washers.
7. Mark the location on the firewall where the throttle
pushrod will pass through. Drill a 3/16" hole on that mark. Locate the 24" [610mm] gray plastic pushrod tube.Cut it to a length of 16". Roughen one end of the tube with 220-gr it sandpaper. Install the un-sanded end of the pushrod tube into the front of the firewall through the hole you drilled in the firewall and through the hole inside the fuselage, in the fuselage former. Apply CA to the roughened end of the plastic tube, gluing it into the firewall.
8. Locate a .074 x 36" [914mm] pushrod wire. Cut it to a
length of 21" [533mm], cutting off the threaded end of the wire.Insert this wire into the plastic tube you installed for the throttle.Install a brass screw lock connector into the throttle arm, locking it to the arm with the nylon retainer. Insert this wire into the screw lock connector and the plastic tube you installed for the throttle.Lock the wire to the connector with a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] socket head cap screw.
Refer to this photograph for steps 8 -12.
8.Locate two 3/8" x 3/8" x 3/8" [9 x 9 x 9mm] balsa blocks and
two plywood pushrod supports. Slide the supports over the gray plastic throttle pushrod y ou have installed in the fuselage.
RETAINER
14
Page 15
10. Install the throttle ser vo into the tray in the fuselage.
Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through each of the mounting holes in the servo.Install and then remove a servo mounting screw into each of the holes you have drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the threads. After the glue has cured, install your servo.
11.Install a brass-screw loc k connector and nylon retainer to
the servo arm. Slide it onto the pushrod wire, center the servo and install the servo arm onto the servo.Then install the servo screw into the servo and a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] socket head cap screw into the screw-lock connector.
12. Cut the forward plywood pushrod support to fit
between the pushrod and the fuselage. Glue the two balsa blocks to both sides of the support. Lightly sand the fuselage where the support will be glued and then wipe the area with rubbing alcohol. Glue the forward support to the fuselage side and glue the rear support to the ser vo tray.
13. Assemble the fuel tank as shown. Included with the
fuel tank hardware is a 24" length of fuel tubing.This will be used for attaching the tank to the carburetor and muffler pressure tap. If you will be using a fuel valve (not included) for filling the tank rather than filling the tank by remo ving the line from the carburetor , install it in the fuel line f ollo wing the instructions included with the valve.
14. Install the fuel line included with the kit onto the tubes
extending from the fuel tank. Insert the lines and the fuel tank into the fuselage. Hold the tank in place with a couple of #64 rubber bands. Attach the carburetor line to the carburetor. The vent line can be attached later when the muffler is permanently installed.
1. Use card stock as a template for making the cut out in
the cowl.Tape the card stock to the fuselage behind where the cowl will be mounted. Mark the card stock where the engine extends outside of the cowl.Cut that area out of the card stock.
2.Remove the engine from the mount;slide the cowl onto the
fuselage. (If you are installing the O.S. .91 four stroke engine, you can remove the rocker ar m cover and the cowl will fit over the engine without removing it.) Tape the cowl to the fuselage. Trace the pattern from the card stock onto the cowling.
3. Remove the cowl from the fuselage. Cut out the area
you have marked. A high speed rotary tool wor ks well for this.T ry to cut as closely to the area outlined as you can.Y ou will be making adjustments to the cut out as you continue with the installation of the cowl. The goal now is to just be able to slip the cowl over the engine and onto the fuselage.
4. Reinstall the engine onto the engine mount. Slide the
cowl over the engine and onto the fuselage.
Install the Cowl
15
Page 16
5. Locate the five 1/8" [3mm] balsa disks shown.Glue the
three smaller disks to each other forming a 3/8" [9mm] thick disk. The inside diameter of these disks is designed to fit over the thrust washer of the O. S. .91 two-stroke engine and the O.S. .91 four-stroke engine. Depending on the engine you are installing, you may have to slightly enlarge the inside diameter of the rings. If necessar y, enlarge the disks just enough to fit snugly over the engine thrust washer.Once the disk fits, glue the 3/8" [9mm] disk onto the large disk inside the location marks on the disk.
6. Glue the remaining disk on the bottom of the large disk
as shown. This will become a handy aid in helping you to properly center the cowl and the engine. In the future this will be referred to as the cowl tool.
7. Look into the front of the fuselage and you will see four
cowl mounting blocks glued inside.The photo shows where the blocks are located. Locate these blocks, so when you mount the cowl you drill into the blocks.The easiest way to find and mark the location of the blocks is to shine a high­powered flash light inside the fuselage.You should be able to see the shadowed outline of the blocks outside of the fuselage. Mark the location of the blocks with a felt-tip pen. This can be cleaned off later with rubbing alcohol.
8.Place masking tape on the fuselage extending ov er the
location of the blocks. Draw a 1-1/2" [40mm] line from the center of the block back.Do this at all four blocks.
9.Install the cowl onto the front of the fuselage.Slide the cowl
tool in place over the crankshaft of the engine and into the opening in the front of the cowl. Hold it tight against the engine by tightening the prop nut and washer against the cowl tool.
16
Page 17
10. Make any adjustment needed to align the paint lines on
the cowl with the fuselage. At each of the reference lines you have dra wn on the fuselage, measure from the fuselage back to the cowl 1-1/2" [38mm].Mark that location on the cowl.
11. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the cowl and fuselage
mounting blocks at one of the four locations.Tempor arily screw a #4 x 3/8" [9mm] sheet metal screw and a #4 flat washer into the cowl and fuselage. Drill a hole at another location. Install another screw and washer. Do this for all four mounting blocks.
12. Remove the cowl.Apply a couple of drops of thin CA
to the holes to harden the threads.After the glue has cured, install the cowl with the #4 x 3/8" [9mm] sheet metal screws and #4 flat washers.
13. Using a technique similar to the way you located and
cut the cowl for the engine cylinder head, make any additional cut outs needed in the cowl for the needle valve, muffler, glow plug, etc.
1. Locate three .074" x 36" [.074" x 914mm] pushrod
wires threaded on one end. Screw a nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wires 20 full turns. Install a silicone clevis keeper onto the clevises.
2. Slide two of the wires with clevises attached into the
openings closest to the back of the fuselage on both sides of the fuselage.
3. Connect a nylon control horn onto each of the two
clevises. Position the control horn on the elevators, positioning it the same way as you did with the ailerons. Mark the location for the screw holes. Drill through the marks you made with a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit, drilling through the elevator. Secure the control horn to the elevator with two 2-56 x 5/8" [16mm] machine screws and the nylon mounting plate.
4. Connect the third rod into the remaining opening in the
fuselage. Connect the control hor n to the clevis and attach the control horn to the rudder in the same way you installed them to the elevators.
Install the Radio System
17
Page 18
5. Install the rudder servo into the ser vo tray at the position
shown.Mark the location for the servo mounting screws.Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the marks, drilling through the plywood tray.Insert and then remove one of the servo mounting screws supplied with your radio into each of the four holes you have drilled. Apply a couple of drops of thin CA to each of the holes to harden the threads. After the glue has cured permanently mount the servo.
6. Be sure the rudder servo is centered. Enlarge the
outermost hole in the servo arm with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit). Center the rudder and align the wire pushrod with the hole in the end of the servo arm. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the wire where it crosses the holes in the servo arm. On that mark make a 90 degree bend. From the bend measure an additional 3/16" [4.8mm]. Then cut off the excess pushrod wire. Install a nylon Faslink to the wire and servo arm.
7. Install the elevator servo into the servo tray. Position it
in line with the elevator pushrods .Mount the servo using the same procedure used for the rudder servo.
8. Make a bend in one of the elevator pushrod wires
as shown.
9. Screw a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] socket head cap screw with
a small amount of threadlocker into two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars. Slide the wheel collars onto the wires. Align the elevators.Tighten the set screws against the wires.Cut the excess wire.
10. Be sure the elevator servo is centered. Enlarge the
first hole in the servo arm with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit). Center the elevators and align the wire pushrod with the hole in the end of the servo arm. Using a marker, mark the location where the wire aligns with the hole in the servo arm. On that mark make a 90 degree bend. From the bend measure an additional 3/16" [4.8mm] and then cut off the excess pushrod wire. Install a nylon Faslink to the wire and servo arm.
18
Page 19
11. Install the batter y and receiver as shown. Place 1/4"
thick foam under the receiv er and battery, holding it in place with the Velcro®material included with the kit.
12. Use an arm cut from a servo horn to make an
antenna strain relief as shown. Inser t the receiver antenna into the white antenna tube. Hold it to the fuselage by placing a small rubber band around the tail wheel and the end of the antenna.
1.We installed a ¼ scale Williams Brothers “Sportsman
pilot (WBRQ2626).Because the Little Toni was such a small racer, the head of the pilot is all that is required.To fit the head you will have to sand a small portion of the chin from the pilot figure.
2. Trim the canopy on the molded cut lines. The canopy
can be glued to the fuselage or screwed in place.If you look inside the fuselage you will see four plywood mounting blocks pre-installed for this purpose. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the cowl and the blocks .Hold the canopy in place with four #2 x 3/8" [10mm] screws and four flat washers. If you choose to glue the canopy in place, RC 56 canopy glue works well for this application.
3. Install the propeller that is best suited to your engine.The
included spinner utilizes a frame that secures the spinner to the back plate, eliminating the need for a special nut for the engine crankshaft. Secure the back plate and the prop with the prop nuts that came with your engine. Hold the spinner to the back plate with the 4mm socket head cap screw.
FINAL TOUCHES
19
Page 20
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm waterabout one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals have a sticky-backand are not the water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath the decal.
3.P osition decal on the model where desired.Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe away most of the water.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the decals the same way.
1.Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
2.With the transmitter and receiv er still on, check all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
Check the Control Directions
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Apply the Decals
20
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
Page 21
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately measure and set the control throw of each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the
LOW rate setting. NOTE:The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing gear, cover ing and the radio system.
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [2mm] wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-3/8" [86mm] back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked .
3. If the tail drops, the model is tail heavyand weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model is nose heavyand weight must be added to the tail to balance.If additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily added by using a spinner weight(GPMQ4645 f or the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) stick-onlead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (dont attach weight to the cowlit is not intended to support weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firew all until the model balances. Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
This is where your model should balance for the first flights. Later, you may wish to exper iment by shifting the C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm] back to change the flying characteristics.At this time, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model outside the specified range.
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.If you value this model and wish to enjo y it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
Balance the Model C.G.
IMPORTANT: The Little Toni has been extensively flown
and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the greatest chance for successful first flights.If, after you have become accustomed to the way the Little Toni flies, you would like to change the throws to suit y our taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could make the model difficult to control, so remember, “more is not always better.
These are the recommended control surface throws.
High Rate Low Rate
Elevator 3/4" [19mm] up 1/2" [13mm] up
3/4" [19mm] down 1/2" [13mm] down
Rudder 1-1/8" [28mm] right 3/4" [19mm] right
1-1/8" [28mm] left 3/4" [19mm] left
Ailerons 3/8" [10mm] up 1/4" [6mm] up
3/8" [10mm] down 1/4" [16mm] down
Set the Control Throws
21
Page 22
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
4.IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.
1.With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.
2.If one wing alwa ys drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model.It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag on page 27 and place it on or inside your model.
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
NOTE: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack is highly recommended. All batter y packs, whether its a trusty pack youve just tak en out of another model, or a new battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting the discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be identified (and a valuable model sav ed!) b y comparing its actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you dont own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,
confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full power indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
Ground check the operational range of your r adio bef ore the first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Range Check
Ground Check
Balance the Propeller
Charge the Batteries
Identify Y our Model
PREFLIGHT
Balance the Model Laterally
22
Page 23
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel and remember that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines. Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. Keep your f ace and body as well as all spectators aw ay from the
plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine. Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shir t
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shir t or jacket pockets into the prop.
Use a chicken stickor electric starter to star t the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller .Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller . The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine, an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running engine.
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
GENERAL
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously successfully flight tested.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y an experienced helper.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.
4.I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
23
Page 24
24
1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust
residue such as the cowl ring, cowl mounting blocks, wing saddle area, etc.
2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
3. Be cer tain the batter y and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place with foam rubber is not sufficient.
4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has
a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.
5. Balance your model
laterally
as explained in the
instructions.
6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel collars, struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting screws, etc.).
10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the screws included with your radio.
12. Secure connections between servo wires and Y-
connectors or servo extensions, and the connection between your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.).
14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or J.B.Weld.
15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected securely and
are not kinked.
16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).17.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.18. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
21. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
The Little Toni is a great-flying model that flies smoothly and predictably. The Little Toni does not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By r unning the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stic k landings caused by o v erheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter.
Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an impending crash.The best thing to do when flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play.
FLYING
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook cer tain checks and procedures that should be performed before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a checklist is provided to make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
Check List
Page 25
Before you get ready to tak eoff, see how the model handles on the ground by doing a few practice r uns at low speeds on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind.When youre ready, point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up elevator allowing the tail to come off the ground. One of the most important things to remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as your runway and flying site will practically allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stic k, allowing the model to estab lish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.
For reassurance and to keep an e y e on other traffic , it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a comf ortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Little Toni for the first few flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight to become familiar with your model before landing.
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the model is on final approach. This plane is a real floater and without a headwind it will take a long approach to slow the plane.Balancing the Little Toni slightly nose heavey will help slow it easier. Modulate the throttle as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (alw ays ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another attempt.When you’re ready to make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or flight plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your skills (
though it is never a bad idea!)
, but more importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that youve run out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.
Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Landing
Flight
Takeoff
If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting;and one of the most prev alent causes of flutter; Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.
25
Page 26
Practical rpm: 2000-12,000
Output: 1.6 bhp @ 11,000 r pm
Weight: 23 oz (652g)
The FS-91 Surpass provided dependable 4-stroke power f or thousands of airplane modelers over the years. Its successor, the FS-91 Surpass II, boasts upgrades that make it even better! They include a muffler that reduces sound output without sacrificing power. The improved carburetor redistributes excess oil through the engine, which increases lubrication and adds life to the engine.And critical engine parts have been plated to provide more resistance to harmful corrosion.
Practical rpm: 2,000-17,000
Output: 1.9 bhp @ 16,000 r pm
Weight: 23.6 oz (w/muffler)
Put the performance advantages of an O .S.Engine into your sport plane! The .61 FX engine features dual ball bearings for durability and smooth operation, plus a semi-square head and low cylinder height for maximum cooling fin area. The needle valve is remotely mounted for protection...features a ratchet spring to hold settings securely...and includes an O-ring to prevent air leaks. Extended crankshaft threads give you extra room for attaching your prop, spinner and nut.Includes muffler, glow plug, and 2-year warranty.
The 6EXA takes 6-channel flight control to a new le vel, while maintaining surprisingly simple setup. Programming requires just 2 buttons and a data input lever. Because the 6EXA is all-digital, you can lock in precise settings for everything. That includes the digital tr ims, which offer 241 discrete settings and a virtually unrestricted way to fine-tune performance. Besides essentials such as servo reversing and EPA on all six channels, a trainer system, and easy-to­read, 40-segment LCD screen, the 6EXA also comes with bonus features that make flying even easier to enjoy. Topping the list are 6-model memory with reset,program mixing, throttle cut-off switch, retract switch, flap knob, audible battery power alarm, adjustable stick length, the dual-conversion,7-channel R127DF receiver and four S3004 ball bearing servos.
Top Flite Power Point Propellers give you a visible power boost, no matter what your aircraft application may be. Strict manufacturing quality controls and tight tolerances in design and tooling give Power Point Props true, constant pitch throughout the entire blade diameter .This, combined with lower rotational mass, provides greater thrust at any rpm and less overall engine wear. Stiffer than nylon, lighter than maple, these fuelproofed beechwood props also feature a swept tip design which reduces prop “ho wl”for quieter flying.
26
O.S.®.91 Surpass™Engine (OSMG0896) O.S.®.61 FX Engine (OSMG0561)
Futaba®6EXA 6-Channel FM
Computer Radio (FUTK55**)
Top Flite®Power Point®Propellers
Page 27
27
Photocopy or cut-out the ID tag and fill in the information needed. Place one of these in your model. We have provided a few extras.
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State Zip
Phone number
AMA number
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State Zip
Phone number
AMA number
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State Zip
Phone number
AMA number
Page 28
28
Loading...