Great Planes GPMA0530 User Manual
INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH TH I S INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AN D U S E OF T HI S MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily
harm and property
damage.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND
YOURS
ALONE - to
build
this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and to test the model and fl y it only with
experienced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common sense as set
down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA
to become properly insured before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN
YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
1-800-435-9262
P.O. BOX 788 URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801 217398-8970
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Precautions
..................
Other Items Required
Supplies and Tools Needed
Die Patterns
Abbreviations
Types
of
Wood
.............
..........
......
.................
................
...............
3
3
3
3
4
5
5
Decisions you must make now . . . 5
Get Ready to Build
TAIL FEATHERS
Build
the Fin and Rudder
............
.............
.......
5
6
6
Build the Stabilizer and Elevator . 7
Cut the Hinge Slots
...........
8
WING ASSEMBLY ............ 9
Build
the Inner Wing Panel
......
9
Build the Outer Wing Panel ..... 12
Join the Wing Panels
..........
14
Final Wing Assembly .......... 15
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
.......
19
Assemble Fuselage Sides ....... 19
Frame-up the Fuselage
Assemble the Canopy
FINAL ASSEMBLY
.........
..........
............
20
23
25
Balance the Airplane Laterally ... 25
Final Sanding
................
25
Covering .................... 25
Checking for Warps
Glue
the Hinges
Mount the
Tail
Assemble Pushrods
...........
..............
Surfaces
........
...........
26
26
27
27
Install Radio Gear
Control Throws
.............
...............
28
29
Install the Spoilers in the Wing . . . 29
Balance the Model
Final Hookups and Checks
............
......
29
30
PRE-FLIGHT ................. 31
Charge the Batteries
Find a Safe Place to Fly
Range Check
Your
...........
........
Radio
.......
31
31
31
Install the Wings .............. 31
AMA Safety Code .............. 31
General
Radio Control
.....................
................
31
31
FLYING ...................... 32
Trim Flights
Your
First Hi-Start Launch
First Flights
.................
......
..................
32
32
33
THERMAL FLYING ........... 33
Facts About Thermals
Thermal Soaring
Pointers for Contest
SLOPE SOARING
..........
..............
Flying
......
.............
33
34
35
35
Flying ...................... 35
Slope Landings ............... 36
POWERED LAUNCHING ...... 36
BALLASTING ................ 36
BUILDING NOTES ............ 36
PARTS LIST .................. 37
CONTEST PRACTICE CHART .. 39
2-VIEW DRAWING ............ 40
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or i f you
have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please call or write us at the address below and we will
be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers a nd the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the kit box) and have them ready when calling. Thank you.
Great Planes Model Mfg., Inc.
P.O.
Box
788
Urbana, IL 61801 (217) 398-8970
2
P.O.BOX
788
URBANA,
ILLINOIS
61801
217398-8970
INTRODUCTION
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Congratulations! You are about to enter the exciting
world of silent flight. Soaring offers a freedom that no other
type of flying can offer! It is your knowledge and your
SPIRIT'S flying abilities in a fight against gravity. With a
little practice and some help from mother nature you will be
able to defeat gravity and enjoy flights that can last for hours
and cover many miles at incredible altitudes.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes SPIRIT
sailplane. It has been designed to give you many hours of
relaxing flying, and has also been engineered to provide a
truly enjoyable building experience.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model as doing
s o may result in a n unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few cases
the plans and instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances you should assume the plans and w r itten
instructions a r e correct.
2. You must take time t o build straight, true and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that i s in first class
condition.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and
in
the
air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent
help of a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at th is time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and "fly-ability" of your
finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in an y way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance
or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow direc-
tions to end up with a well-built model that is
straight and true.
Radio having at least 2 channels (a third channel is
required for optional spoilers)
Iron-on Covering Material (2 rolls)
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
#64 Rubber B an ds
Hi-start or other Launching Device
BB's or Lead Shot for Balancing
The Optional Spoilers Also Require:
1 - 3/16" x 1/4" x 36" Balsa Stick
2 - 30" Lengths of Braided Fishing Line
2 - 30" Lengths of 1/8" Plastic Tubing
The Optional Bolt-On Wing Also Requires:
1 - Small Sheet of 1/4" Birch Plywood
1 - Small Piece of 1/16" Birch Plywood
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 1/8", 9/64" (13/64" and 17/64"
for Wing Bolt Option)
Sealing Iron
Heat Gun
Razor Saw
Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Assorted Rubber Bands
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Cellophane Tape
Vinyl Tape
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench (for bolt on wing option)
Dremel Moto Tool or Similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" TBar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and
#150-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for almost an y sanding task. We also keep
some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for
finish sanding before covering.
3
SPRTFO1
DIE PATTERNS
Do not punch out die-cut parts until ready to use!
BALSA 3/32" X 3-1/4" X 38-1/2"
2
PER
KIT
1
PER
SPRTF06
BALSA 1/8" X 3" X 9-7/8"
SPRTW07
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 15"
SPRTF05 1 PER KIT
PLY 1/8" X 4" X 11-7/8"
SPRTS01
KIT
1
PER
KIT
2
PER
SPRTF02
KIT
SPRTW02
SPRTF04
FRONT FUSELAGE DOUBLER
BALSA 3/32" X 3-1/4" X 24"
SPRTF03
REAR FUSELAGE DOUBLER
PLY 1/8"
BALSA 3/32" X 4" X 21"
X
3"
X
19"
2
PER
I
PER
I
PER
2
PER
KIT
KIT
KIT
KIT
BALSA 3/16" x 3" x 9-7/8
SPRTW08
PLY 1/8" X 3-7/8" X 11-7/8
SPRTW05
PLY 1/16" X 3-3/8" X 11-7/8
I
PER
1
PER
KIT
KIT
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW03
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW01
BALSA 1/8" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW04 1 PER KIT
PLY 1/8" X 3-3/4 X 10-1/2"
4
2
PER
KIT
I
PER
KIT
SPRTW06 I PER KIT
PLY 1/32" X 3-1/4" X 9-3/4'
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
TYPES OF WOOD
Elev
Fuse
LE
Lt
Ply
Rt
Stab
TE
= Elevator
= Fuselage
= Leading Edge (front)
Left
= Plywood
= Right
= Stabilizer
= Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
DECISIONS YOU MUST
MAKE NOW
WING CONFIGURATION
The SPIRIT kit has three different wing options: a
two-piece rubber band on wing, a one-piece bolt on wing
or a one-piece rubber band on wing. The two-piece wing
is the easiest version to build and is recommended for
beginners. Some experienced sailplane pilots may prefer
the one-piece bolt on wing, bu t the large wing can present
transportion problems in todays small cars. The onepiece rubber band wing would be the next best choice for
beginners.
SPOILERS
The SPIRIT can be built either with or without
spoilers. Spoilers act as airbrakes and make it easier for
experienced pilots to precisely land on target during
contests. They can also be helpful in losing altitude
quickly. Due to the added complexity encountered when
installing spoilers, they are NOT recommended for first
time builders. If you a r e a beginner and may eventually
want spoilers, install just the spoiler tubing now and the
rest of the spoiler pans can be installed when you are
ready.
BALSA
BASSWOOD
PLYWOOD
GET READY TO BUILD
NOTE: It will be helpful to build on a piece of
"Celotex", or other semi-soft (and flat) surface,
into which you may easily stick pins to firmly hold
down the parts while building and to avoid warps.
1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re-roll the plan inside out and let
it uncurl while you read through this instruction book. This
will help the plan lay flat and get you acquainted with the
building process. NOTE: Because there are several op-
tions to consider when building the SPIRIT, you should
read the instruction book through before building and
then go back and cross off the steps you won't use to build
your model.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts
list at the back of this book. Write the part name or size on
each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on page 4 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out during
construction, do not force them! Instead, first cu t around the
parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut parts,
use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities.
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS
ARE VERY IMPORTANT AND SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY
5
"TAIL FEATHERS"
BUILD THE FIN A N D RUDDER
You'll need t he following parts:
SPRTS02 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" Balsa Stick
SPRTS03 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" Balsa Stick
SPRTS01 3/16" Die-Cut Tail Parts
SPRTF08 3/16" Balsa Triangle
D 1 . Tape or pin the plan down to your flat work surface.
Tape a piece of waxed paper over the f i n and rudder portion
of the plan (so you don't glue the parts to the plan).
D 4. Remove the fin and rudder assemblies from the plan
and examine them for any open or bad joints. Fill any gaps
with thick CA, then use your sanding block wi t h me dium grit
sandpaper to sand both sides of t he framework smooth.
D 2. Using the plan as a guide, cut pieces of 3/16" x 3/8"
balsa (from the 30" sticks, SPRTS02) to make the Rudder
and Fin Framework. NOTE: Cu t the Fin L.E., the Rudder
L.E. and the Rudder T.E. from a single SPRTS02 (This wil l
leave enough long pieces for the stab). Punch ou t the die-cut
Fin Tip, Rudder T ip, Fin Base and Rudder Base from
SPRTS01. Sand the edges if necessary and pin them in place
on the plan and glu e the parts together using thin CA glue.
NOTE: Do not glue the fin to the rudder!
D 3. From the 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" sticks (SPRTS03), cu t
the diagonal "ribs" to fit between the rudder and fin frame-
work, and glue them in place. NOTE: It is not necessary to
get these ribs in the exact position shown on the plan.
D 5. Cut two 4-1/8" lengths of 3/16" Balsa Triangle
from SPRTF08 and glue them along the bottom of the fin.
The bottom edges of the tria ngle should be flush with the
bottom of the fin.
D 6. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
the rudder and fin (this will help to maintain symmetry when
sanding).
D 7. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand the leading edge of the rudder t o the V-shape
as shown on the plans (a small razor plane works great for
initial shaping). Sand the three remaining edges to a smooth
rounded shape. Sand the top and the leading edge of the fin
to a nice rounded shape*. NOTE: The trailing edge of the
6
FIN must remain square, do not sand it! Sand the triangle
stock to blend with th e leading and trailing edges of the fin.
Also, cut or sand the bottom of the triangle stock to match the
contour of the 3/16" die-cut fi n bottom.
D 1. Tape waxed paper over the stabilizer drawing on the
plan. In the same manner as the rudder, cut the 3/16" x 3/8"
balsa pieces and using the die-cut Stab Tips, Stab Center
and Stab Brace from SPRTS01, assemble the stab framework using thin CA glue.
D 2. Cut the 1/8 " x 3/ 16" "ribs" to length and glue them
in place.
* MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE TIP - Sand both sides of
the rudder to a taper as shown on the plans. This requires a
little more work but will help to reduce drag and thus increase
performance of the sailplane.
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTS02 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" Balsa Sticks
SPRTS03 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" Balsa Sticks
SPRTS01 3/16" Die-Cut Tail Parts
SPRTS04 Tapered Elevator
D 3. Pin or tape the elevator (SPRTS04) in place behind
the stab and use your razor saw to cut the ends off t o match the
stab.
D 4. Remove the stab from the plan and examine it for
any open or bad joints. Fill any gaps with thick CA, then use
your sanding block with medium grit sandpaper to sand both
sides smooth. Draw a centerline around the stab edges.
D 5. Tape the elevator to the stab using masking tape and
sand the leading edge of the stab, the stab tips and the elevator
tips to a smooth rounded shape. The tips of the elevator
should blend in nicely with the stab lips.
7
D 6. Remove the elevator and draw a center line down its
leading edge. Use yo ur sanding block to sand the same Vshape as you did on the rudder. The trailing edge should also
be sanded to a smooth rounded shape.
D 2. Draw accurate centerlines down the trailing edge of
the stab and the fin. Cut the hinge slots on these lines using
a hobby knife or a slotting fork and slotting hook. (The
recommended hinge slotting technique is listed below).
CUT THE HINGE SLOTS (Do not glue)
NOTE: One-piece molded polypropylene hinges
are supplied in this kit. If you choose to use these
hinges or the "pinned"-type hinges, you may cut
the hinge slots at this time. However, if you choose
to use the one-piece hinges tha t are paper covered
for CA glue installation, you may wait until after
covering before cutting the hinge slots.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at
the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut
in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the
centerline and don't cut too deep!
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts, work on going straight into th e wood.
Continue this process while "wiggling" the knife
handle forward and backward until the blade has reached
the proper depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back
and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.
D 3. IMPORTANT! Condition or "break-in" the
hinges by folding them back and forth several times.
D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and
transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevator against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab.
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when
cutting hinge slots with a hobby knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you
are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into
your hand before you know it! A good precaution is
to wear leather gloves while performing the following steps.
D 4. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
and elevator in place on the fi n and stab. Do not glue the
hinges until after you have covered the model.
8
WING ASSEMBLY
BUILD THE INNER WING PANELS
D 4. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 1/16" Balsa W2
and W2S Wing Ribs. Sand the edges slightly to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTW01 1/8" Die-Cut Balsa Wing Ribs
SPRTW02 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa Wing Ribs, W2, W2S
SPRTW03 1/16 " Die-Cut Balsa Wing Ribs, W2, W4-W10
SPRTW04 1/8" Die-Cut Plywood Dihedral Braces
SPRTW07 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa Shear Webs
SPRTW08 1/8" Die-Cut Plywood Clamps and Gauges
SPRTW10 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge
SPRTW 11 Shaped, Notched Balsa Inner Trailing Edge
SPRTW13 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood Spars
SPRTW17 1/16" x 3" x 24" Balsa Wing Sheeting
NOTE: The wing is designed to be built as a twopiece wing; however, we also describe how to build
a one-piece wing which can be either held on with
rubber bands or 1/4 - 20 nylon wing bolts (not
included).
D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wing drawing wi th waxed paper. NOTE: If your work
space is limited, you may c ut the wing drawings apart from
the rest of the plans.
NOTE: Follow step 5 below through step 7 on page
15 to build the LEFT wing panel, then repeat these
steps to build the RIGHT wing panel.
DD 5. Pin one of the notched balsa Inner Trailing
Edges (SPRTW 1 1 ) to the plan lining up the notches in the T E
with the notches on the the plan.
DD 6. Place one of the 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Inner Spars (SPRTW13) on the wi ng plan and pin the spar
down with crossed T-pins as shown in the following sketch.
NOTE: The spars ma y be cu t slightly oversize, the excess
will be cu t off later.
T-Pins
Work Surface
Spar
D 2. The Shaped Wing Leading Edges (SPRTW10) are
fastened together by thin strips of balsa. Separate them by
carefully cutting between the LE'S. Sand away the excess
balsa that remains along the edges after cutting them apart,
using a sanding block with 100-grit sandpaper.
D 3. Before using the 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Spars (SPRTW13), examine them carefully for possible
imperfections. Look for knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and
any other imperfections. If possible, position each spar so the
imperfections are on the outer half of the wing panel (toward
the tip), where they will b e least affected by high stress. If the
spars are warped slightly, "balance them out" by installing
the warped spars in opposite directions (see sketch).
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WING
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
DD 7. Place the seven W-2 ribs (from SPRTW02 and
SPRTW03) and the two W-2S ribs (from SPRTW02) on the
spar in their approximate positions, work the ribs into the
notches on the trailing edge bu t do not glue anything yet.
DD 8. Punch out the two Rib Gauge Pieces from the
1/8" die-cut plywood sheet (SPRTW08) and assemble them
using CA. Notice that one end of the gauge is slanted at a 5
degree angle for positioning the end ribs. The other 3 ends are
perpendicular and can be used to keep parts 90 degrees to the
work surface.
9
edges are NOT symmetrical. Refer to one of the section
views on the plans to determine which way they should be
installed. Carefully hold the leading edge against one o f t he
end W-2 ribs and note that i t i s wider than the front of th e rib.
This i s because the 1/16" balsa leading edge top sheeting will
be added later. Align the lower surface of the leading edge
with the bottom of the rib and glue it in place with a drop of
thin CA. Lift up the other end of the leading edge, align it with
the bottom of the opposite end W-2 and glue it with a drop of
thin C A . Go down the line and glue the remaining ribs to th e
leading edge one at a time so you can make sure they are
aligned.
DD 9. Make sure the ribs are properly positioned accord-
ing to the plans and glue them in place using thick CA at the
spar joint and a drop of thin CA at the trailing edge joint. Use
the square end of the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular
to the work surface. NOTE: if you are installing spoilers,
cut out the embossed area on the two W2S ribs and make
sure you install these ribs in the proper locations.
DD 10. Trial fit the top 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Inner Spar (SPRTW13) into the notches in the ribs by
carefully pushing the spar completely down into the notches.
Make sure the lop spar i s lined up lengthwise with the bottom
spar. Remove the spar and glu e it in place by applying thick
CA to the notches before the spar is put back in place.
1/16" sheeting will
be added later
-Bottom of rib should
be flush with bottom
of leading edge.
DD 12. Locate the 1/16" Balsa Die-Cut Shear Web
She et (SPRTW07) and notice th at all of the shear webs are
not t he same. The webs between the number 2's are for use
on the inner panel. The webs between the 2 and the 1 0 are for
the outer panel and each one of these is a different size so keep
them in the sheet until they are ready to be used. Punch out
all of the "2" shear webs.
DD 11. Position a Pre-shaped Leading Edge
(SPRTW10) in place over the plans. NOTE: These leading
DD 13. Trial fit one of the webs in place between the first
two W-2 ribs. You may have to sand it slightly to get it to fit.
Glue the shear web in place on the back of the spars using
thick CA. The webs should be centered (up and down)
between the spars. It is important to do a good job of gluing
these in place as they are responsible for most of the wing's
strength. C-2 Clamps from the 1/8" Die-Cut Plywood Sheet
SPRTW08 can be used to help hold the webs in place while
the glue cures.
DD 14. Install the remaining balsa shear webs. Note that
the webs are only installed between the ribs already glued in
place. Three webs are also installed on the front of the spars
10
in the first three rib "bays". NOTE: if you are installing
spoilers in the wing or may add them in the future, install
the web between the two W2S ribs on the FRONT of the
spars to make room for the spoiler horn.
IF YOU ARE BUILDING A ONE-PIECE
WING, SKIP AHEAD TO "BUILD THE
OUTER WING PANEL" ON PAGE 12. STEPS
1 5 THROUGH 22 ARE FOR A 2-PIECE WING
ONLY.
DD 15. Locate the 1/8" die-cut sheet (SPRTW04) that
contains the Dihedral Braces, the Leading Edge Brace and
the Wing Joiner Lamination. Line a ruler up with the two
embossed cut marks and draw a line across both of the
dihedral braces.
DD 16. Punch out the two dihedral braces and cut them in
half with a razor saw along the lines you jus t drew. Note:
these braces are supplied in one piece for the bolt on wing
option. Also punch out the wing joiner lamination from that
sheet and set it aside for the next step. The leading e d ge brace
is not used in a two-piece wing.
DD 17. Punch out the three C1 clamps from the 1/8" diecut plywood sheet (SPRTW08). Test f i t two of the dihedral
brace "halves" to the "root" (inner) end of the inner panel
spars. One brace should be installed on the front of the spars
and the other on the back. The edge that you cut with the razor
saw should be near the end of the spars and it should be placed
s o that i t slants in at the top (towards the middle o f the wing).
Use the C1 clamps to hold the braces in place and test fit the
wing joiner lamination into the box formed. This "box" will
be referred to as the "joiner box". The wing joiner lamination is used to make sure the spars remain the correct distance
apart. (See photo at the top of the next column.)
DD 18. Remove the clamps and apply a bead of epoxy
along the spar edges (thick CA will also work b ut be very
careful to get things aligned properly before the glue cures).
Install the braces and hold in place wi th the C1 clamps. A
goo d glue joint is important here but be careful not to get any
excess glue inside the box formed by these braces or the wing
joiner will not fit ins ide. Also test the size of the joiner box
with the joiner lamination while th e glue is curing.
DD 19. Tightly wrap the joiner box with a strong thin
thread and then soak it with thin C/A. This will add a lot of
strength to the joiner box. Do not overlap the thread or allow
it to build up too thick.
DD 20. Locate one of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Sheets
(SPRTW 17) and cut it into 6 pieces 2-3/8" long. Slide one of
the sheets in place in front o f the joiner box and trim to fit. Use
11
another sheet to shim up the frontedge (See sketch nextpage).
Glue it in place with thick CA.
1/16"
balsa
scrap
Shaped
balsa LE
1/16" balsa
bottom sheet
Spars
Work Surface
DD 20 . Glue another piece to the rear of the joiner box and
then cut a third piece to fit behind the second and glue it in
place.
DD 1. Lay one of the Outer Trailing Edges
(SPRTW 1 2) in place over the plan and cut it to length just past
the last notch. Align th e notches in the trailing edge with th e
notches on the plans and pin it in position. NOTE: The un-
notched end of this trailing edge will be used later if you
are installing spoilers.
DD 2. "Cross pin" one of the 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8"
Basswood Outer Spars (SPRTW 14) in place.
DD 2 I.Punch out three W1A ribs and three W1B ribs from
the l/8"die-cut balsa rib sheet(SPRTW01). Tes t
fit
these ribs
into position. A little sanding may be necessary to make them
fit properly. Glue these ribs into place using thick CA. The
end rib should be tilted in at the top using the slanted end of
the rib gauge to give it the correct angle.
DD 22. Cut and sand the leading edges, trailing edges and
spars to their correct length. Lay the panel over the plans to
determine the correct lengths.
BUILD THE OUTER WING PANEL
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTW03 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa Wing Ribs W4 - W10
SPRTW07 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa Shear Webs
SPRTW10 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge
SPRTW 12 Shaped, Notched Balsa Outer Trailing Edge
SPRTW14 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8" Basswood Outer Spars
SPRTW15 7/8" Shaped Balsa Wing Tip Block 12
DD 3. Punch out the 1/16" (W4-W10) Tip Ribs ou t of
one of the SPRTW03 die-cut sheets. Glue the ribs in place
with a thick C A at the spar joint and a drop of thin CA at the
trailing edge joint. Use the rib gauge to keep the ribs
perpendicular.
DD 4. Trial fit the top 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8" Basswood
Outer Spar in place by carefully pressing the spar int o the
notches until it is flush with the top of the ribs. Remove the
spar and apply thick C A to the notches. Replace the spar and
allow the glue to cure.
DD 5. Lay one of the remaining Pre-Shaped Leading
Edges over the LEADING EDGE TEMPLATE at the top
rig h t comer of the plans. Use this drawing as a reference to
cut the leading edge to length and to cut the relief notches. It
is a good idea to cut the leading edge approximately 1/4"
longer on both ends to be on the safe side. It can be cut to
the correct length after it is installed. The relief notches do
not need to go all the way through the leading edge but should
go within 1/8" of doing so. NOTE: You must make a
"Right" and a "Left" L.E.
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