Great Planes GPMA0495 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user
accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THR OUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING
THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

OLD4P03 for GPMA0495 V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2002

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

[phone], Ext. 2

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 73 in [1854mm]
Wing Area: 735 sq in [47 dm

2

]

Weight: 5-1/4 lb [2434 g]
Wing Loading: 17 oz/sq ft [52 g/dm

2

]

Fuselage Length: 55 in [1397mm]
Radio: 3-Channel
Engine: .30 – .40 cu in two-stroke,

.40 – .52 cu in four-stroke

™

INTRODUCTION ..........................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..................................................3

Engine Selection ......................................................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED................................................3

Hardware & Accessories..........................................................3

Adhesives & Building Supplies ................................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ........................................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ................................................5

Common Abbreviations............................................................5

Types of Wood..........................................................................5

Metric/Inch Scale......................................................................5

Die Patterns ......................................................................6 & 7

BUILDING THE T AIL SURFACES................................................8

Build the Stabilizer and Elevator ..............................................8

Make the Outer Frame Laminations ........................................8

CA Lamination Method ............................................................9

Aliphatic Resin Lamination Method..........................................9

Finish the Stab & Elevator......................................................10

Build the Fin & Rudder ..........................................................10

Install the Hinges....................................................................11

Finish the Tail Surfaces ..........................................................13

BUILD THE WING ......................................................................13

Build the Center Wing Panel ..................................................13

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing Center-Section ......................15

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS ........................................17

Build the Left Wing Panel ......................................................17

Sheet the Bottom of the Outer Wing Panel............................19

Join the Wing Panels ..............................................................20

BUILD THE FUSELA GE ............................................................21

Build the Fuselage Sides........................................................21

Assemble the Aft Fuse Top ....................................................23

Assemble the Fuselage..........................................................24

Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage ........................................26

Mount the Wing on the Fuselage ..........................................28

Mount the Stabilizer & Fin......................................................28

Mount the Landing Gear ........................................................30

Assemble the Wheel Pants ....................................................30

Install the Landing Gear Fairing ............................................32

Install the Engine....................................................................33

RADIO INSTALLATION ............................................................33

Mount the Servos ..................................................................33

Install the Throttle Pushrod ....................................................35

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY ................................35

FINISHING..................................................................................36

Final Sanding..........................................................................36

Cover the Model with Top Flite MonoKote

®

Film ....................36

Suggested Covering Sequence..............................................37

Painting Your Model................................................................37

FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS..................................................37

Install the Hinges....................................................................37

Install the Wheels ..................................................................38

Finish the Model ....................................................................38

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY............................................39

Check the Control Directions..................................................39

Set the Control Throws ..........................................................39

Balance the Model (C.G.) ......................................................39

PREFLIGHT ..............................................................................40

Identify Your Model ................................................................40

Charge the Batteries ..............................................................40

Balance the Propellers ..........................................................40

Ground Check ........................................................................41

Range Check ..........................................................................41

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............................................41

AMA SAFETY CODE ................................................................41

General ..................................................................................41

Radio Control..........................................................................42

CHECK LIST..............................................................................42

FLYING ......................................................................................42

Takeoff ....................................................................................43

Flight ......................................................................................43

Landing ..................................................................................43

TWO VIEW........................................................Back Cover Page

FUSE & WING PLANS..........................Center Pull-Out Section

The Great Planes Old Timer™40 is a very gentle, easy to fly
plane. The classic lines of the Old Timer 40 will bring back
memories of when R/C was in its infancy. The Old Timer 40
flies great at half throttle on a .40-size engine and a
3-channel radio.If you enjoy spending a lazy afternoon just
puttering around the sky, then you’re going to love the Old
Timer 40.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Old Timer 40, visit the web site listed below and select the
Great Planes Old Timer 40. If there is new technical
information or changes to this kit, a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

1. Your Old Timer 40 should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Old Timer 40, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the

PRO TECT Y OUR MODEL, Y OURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight
and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit
with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone], or e-mail
us at:

pr

[e-mail]

If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please be
sure to provide the full kit name (Old Timer 40) and the part
numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check the following web site for the latest
Old Timer 40 updates:

www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

If you are new to R/C, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights.If you’re not a member of a club, y our local hobb y
shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.
There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance
to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available

at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:

This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Old Timer 40. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses and are recognized by most distributors and
hobby shops and are listed for your convenience.

❏ Engine – s

ee “Engine Selection” above

❏ 3-Channel with 3 standard servos
❏ (2) 3" Main wheels (GPMQ4225)
❏ (1) 1-1/4" Tail wheel (GPMQ4242)
❏ (1) 2-1/4" Spinner
❏ Propeller (Top Flite

®

Power Point®); refer to your

engine’s instructions for proper size.

❏ Medium fuel tubing 2' (GPMQ4131)
❏ (1) 8oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4103)
❏ 1/4" Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ Fuelproof paint – s

ee “Painting” section

❏ (2) 3/32" Wheel collar (GPMQ4302)
❏ (4) 3/16" Wheel collar (GPMQ4308)
❏ Switch and Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)
❏ (4) Rolls covering film

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

.30 - .40 cu. in. 2-stroke
.40 - .52 cu. in. 4-stroke

The Old Timer 40 is a large airplane, but is b uilt v ery light.
When it was test flown, the O.S.®.40LA engine provided
plenty of power. It easily cruised around at half throttle.
Using a more powerful engine is not necessary.If you are
installing a 2-stroke engine, an exhaust extension is
required for the muffler to clear the side of the fuselage.

Engine Selection

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality
kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability
of your finished model depends on how you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers, drill,
etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items
required to build the Old Timer 40.

We recommend Great

Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 1 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Canopy glue
❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (HCAR0211)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ Electric drill and 1/16" [1.6mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 5/32"

[3.9mm], 3/16" [4.7mm], 7/32" [5.5mm] drill bits

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏ Small phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or wax

paper

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment

(see Expert

Tip - “Easy-Touch™Bar Sander” section)

❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Old Timer 40.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ CA Applicator tips (GPMR6033)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line (for

stab alignment)

❏ Felt-Tip marker (TOPQ2510)
❏ Razor plane
❏ Small metal file
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

Moto-Tool

®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
❏ 1/16" to 1/4" drill bit set
❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts

(HCAR0667)

❏Dead Center

™

engine mount hole locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Great Planes AccuThrow

™

deflection gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

❏ Accu-Point

™

laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity
for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a
complete range of Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders and
replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.
While building the Old Timer 40, we used three 11" Bar
Sanders equipped with 80-grit, 150-grit and 220-grit
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and
Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper
(GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and
400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for
finish sanding.

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

4

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and

a length.

For example #6 x 3/4"

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4"

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty
threads per inch.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete
name stamped on them, so refer to the die patterns on
pages 6 and 7 for identification.When it’s time to remov e the
parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do
not force them out. Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to
carefully cut the part from the sheet, then lightly sand the
edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of
the larger scraps of wood.

• The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single-edge
razor blade or razor saw. Position the stick over the plan,
mark its size, then cut the part on a piece of scrap wood. A
modeling miter box works well for cutting square corners
and 45° gussets.

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

Types of Wood

Common Abbreviations

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

5

6

DIE PATTERNS

7

DIE PATTERNS

❏ 1.Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏ 2.The stabilizer and fin LE and elevator and rudder TE

are built using five laminations of balsa.These instr uctions
will cover two methods to build them. The first method is
quick and uses CA, but may be more difficult to sand a
radius on the lamination.The second method requires more
time and uses Aliphatic Resin (wood glue), but is much
easier to sand. Both methods work well and it is up to you
which method you prefer.

❏ 3. If you are going to use the aliphatic resin method to

build the laminations, we recommend that you cut out the
stabilizer/elevator and fin/rudder plans from the wing plan.
Pin the plans in a corner of your building board so that you
can continue working on the wing while waiting for the glue
to dry on the laminations. Cover the stabilizer/elevator plan
with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector so glue will
not adhere.

❏ 4. From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 7" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 178mm]

basswood stick, trim and pin the elevator joiner over
the plan.

❏ 5. From one of the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa sticks, cut the two elev ator LE halvesso that
they fit tight against the elevator joiner.Use 6-minute epoxy
to glue the elevator LE’s to the elevator joiner.

❏ 6. From the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12.7mm]

balsa stick and a second 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm
x 762mm] balsa stick, cut and glue the remaining frame to
the elevator LE.

❏ 7. From a third 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa stick cut the stabilizer TE to length and pin it
over the plan.

❏ 8. From the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12.7mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the stabilizer TE doubler to the TE
and the aft stabilizer center to the TE doubler.

❏ 9. Trim and glue the 1/4" x 3" x 4" [6.4mm x 76.2mm x

102mm] balsa stabilizer center to the aft stabilizer center.

❏ 10. Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa bending jigs in

position over the stab/elevator plan.

This is where you have a choice on how you are going to
proceed: The CA or aliphatic resin method or if you have
another favorite method to laminate LE and TE’s.

Make the Outer Frame Laminations

Build the Stabilizer & Elevator

BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES

8

❏ ❏ 1. Select two 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm x

762mm] balsa strips for the stab/elevator outer frame. Wet
one side of the first strip by dipping your finger in water , then
running it along the one side of the strip. Take care not to
wet both sides.Using medium CA, secure the dry side of the
strip to the middle of the stab center, working toward the

edge.

Note: Water accelerates CA much like commercial
accelerators, so be careful not to get anything wet that
should not be.

Hint: Another way to wet the strips is by holding them in the
air and spraying with a spray bottle. Do not spray the strips
while sitting on a flat surface, or both sides will get wet.

❏ ❏ 2. Slowly wrap the two glued strips from the stab

center all the way around to the center of the TE of the
elevator, securing it to the end of the elevator LE and stab
TE edge with thin CA. Take care to stay tight against the
bending jigs. Do not glue the strip to the bending jigs.

❏ ❏ 3.Wet one side of the next strip.Turn it over and lay a

bead of medium CA down the center of the strip. Glue the
strip onto the previously installed strip.

Note: If you work quickly, the previous strip will still be wet
on the outside. This will accelerate the CA, securing the
strips to one another immediately. If you crack the strip,
don’t worry.Just hold it in place until the CA cures and then,
seal it with thin CA if necessary.

❏ ❏ 4. Apply 5 str ips to make a lamination 1/4" x 5/16"

[6.4mm x 7.9mm].

❏ 5. Return to step 1 and repeat the lamination process on

the other side of the stabilizer and elevator.

6. Proceed to

“Finish the Stabilizer and Elevator.”

❏ ❏ 1.Select ten of the 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm

x 762mm] balsa strips and wet them thoroughly with warm
water. Allow the strips to set a few minutes so they can
become more pliable.

❏ ❏ 2. Stack five of the strips together. Starting at the

middle of the stabilizer center, carefully bend the strips
around the bending jigs, holding the strips in place with
T-pins. Do not use any glue.

❏ ❏ 3.Trim the strips approximately 1" [25.4mm] past the

elevator root.

❏ 4.Return to step 2 and position the second five strips on

the other side of the stabilizer.

❏ 5. Allow the wood to dry thoroughly, a couple of hours.

This is a good time to skip ahead to

“Build the Fin and

Rudder.”

Aliphatic Resin Lamination Method

CA Lamination Method

9

❏ 6. After the wood strips have dried, remove the pins

holding the strips in position.The strips should closely hold
the shape of the stabilizer.

❏ 7. Use CA to glue the first strip to the front of the

stabilizer center, the end of the stab TE and elevator LE and
the rudder root.

❏ 8.Apply a bead of aliphatic resin to the next strip.Spread

the glue out and position the strip against the first strip.
Apply glue to the rest of the strips and pin them in position.
Use T-pins to hold the strips tight against each other.Wipe
off any excess glue before it dries. Glue all ten strips
together, five on each side of the stab/elevator.

❏ 1. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue stab and elevator ribs as shown
on the plan.

❏ 2. After the glue has cured, unpin the stab/elevator from

your building board.Inspect all the glue joints and re-glue if
necessary. Use a bar sander or a large sanding block and
220-grit sandpaper to sand the entire top and bottom
surface of the stab/elevator flat and even. Be careful while
sanding so that you do not over-thin an y one particular area
of the stab/elevator or gouge the ribs by snagging the
sandpaper on them.

❏ 3. Round all edges of the stab and elevator to the shape

shown on the cross-section on the plan. Hint: Once you
have the stab and elevator completely sanded, use a piece
of tape to mark the bottom of the stab and elevator to
ensure proper assembly later.

❏ 4. Cut the stab outer frame between the elevator LE and

the stab TE. Separate the stab from the elevator. Sand the
outer frame flush with the LE and TE.

❏ 5. Mark and cut the slot for the fin tail post to pass

through the stab TE.

❏ 1. Cover the fin/rudder plan with wax paper or Great

Planes Plan Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏ 2. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa fin bases

together to make a 1/4" thick base. Pin the fin base in
position over the plan.

❏ 3.From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the fin TE to the fin base.

Build the Fin & Rudder

Finish the Stabilizer & Elevator

10

❏ 4.From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and pin the rudder LE over the plan. Cut

and

glue the rudder LE doubler to the back of the rudder LE.

❏ 5. Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa bending jigs over

the fin/rudder plan. Follow the same procedure used to
laminate the stabilizer/elevator to make the fin/rudder
lamination using the 5 pieces of 1/16" x 1/4" x 30 [1.6mm x

6.4mm x 762mm] balsa strips.

❏ 6. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue fin and rudder ribs as shown on
the plan.

❏ 7. Unpin the fin/rudder from your building board.Inspect

all the glue joints and re-glue if necessary .Use a bar sander
or a large sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to sand
both sides of the fin/rudder flat and even. Be careful while
sanding so that you do not over-thin an y one particular area
of the fin/rudder or gouge the ribs by snagging the
sandpaper on them.

❏ 8. Round all edges of the fin/rudder to the shape shown

on the cross-section on the plan.

❏ 9.Cut the outer frame between the rudder LE and the fin

TE. Separate the fin from the rudder. Sand the outer frame
flush with the LE and TE.

❏ 1. Lay the fin and rudder over the plan and lightly mark

the hinge locations on the LE of the rudder and the TE of
the fin. Repeat the process to mark the hinge locations on
the LE of the elevator and the TE of the stab.

❏ 2. We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with

the introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine™. This
simple electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for CA hinges.

❏ 3. To cut the hinge slot, first locate the centerline of the

LE and TE edges using the Great Planes Precision Hinge
Marking Tool (GPMR4005). Then place the blades of the
Slot Machine onto the wood where you want the slot.Lightly
press the teeth into the wood. When you are satisfied with

Install the Hinges

11

the location, press the button on the handle and the blades
will cut easily into the balsa wood.

❏ 4. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] deep in the

center of the hinge slots. The use of a Dremel Rotary Tool
with a 3/32" drill bit or carbide cutter will give you a cleaner
hole than an electric drill. After dr illing the holes, use your
hobby knife to clean out the hinge slots.

❏ 5. Cut the 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25.4mm] hinges for the

control surfaces from the supplied 2" x 9" [50.8mm x

228.6mm] hinge material. Then, snip off the corners as
shown on the wing plan. Temporarily join the control
surfaces with the hinges, adjusting any hinge slots if
necessary so they all align.Do not glue in the hinges until

you are instructed to do so after the airplane is
covered.

❏ 6. Lay the rudder over the fuse plan and mark the

location for the tailgear wire.

❏ 7. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 3/4" [19mm] deep, at the

centerline of the rudder LE, at the mark you made for the
tailgear wire. Then, cut a groove for the nylon tailgear
bearing. See the following

Expert Tip

. Test fit the tailgear

wire in the rudder.

HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A TAILGEAR WIRE

Use a #11 knife blade to sharpen the inside of a piece of
5/32" [4mm] brass tube. Roll the tube as you sharpen
the end.

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SLOT MACHINE

Cut the hinge slot in the rudder, fin, stab and elevator
using a Hobby Knife with a #11 blade. Begin by carefully
cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location to
accurately establish the hinge slot. Make three or four
more passes, going a little deeper each time.As you cut,
slide the knife from side to side until the slot has reached
the proper depth and width for the hinge.

12

❏ 1.Remove the tailgear wire from the rudder and place its

leading edge on your work surface.Use a pen, laying on the
bench, to mark a “bev el to”line on both sides, approximately
3/32" [2.4mm] high.

Note: You may need to adjust the height of the rudder with
card stock so your “bevel to”line is not too high.

❏ 2.Using the “bevel to”lines and the centerline as a guide,

shape the LE to a “V”shape using a razor plane or the Great
Planes Multi-Sander (GPMR6190) with 150-grit sandpaper.

❏ 3. Use the same procedure to bevel the LE of the

elevator.

❏ 4. Lay the rudder over the plan and mark the cutout on

the LE for the elev ator joiner. Use a razor saw or hobby knife
to cut the LE for the elevator joiner.

❏ 5.Temporarily attach the rudder to the fin and the

elevator

to the stab using the CA hinges and set them aside.

❏ 1.Cover the center wing panel plan from W -4 to W-4 with

waxed paper or Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Match two of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 18" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

457.2mm] basswood main spars so any warps will
counteract each other.

Build the Center Wing Panel

BUILD THE WING

Finish the Tail Surfaces

Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading
edge of the rudder.You’ll have to make several passes to
make the recess deep enough for the tailgear wire.

13

❏ 3. Position one of the main spars over the plan and pin it

to the building board.Because the wing uses a center shear
web, the main spar can only be pinned outboard of the
W4 ribs.

❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sub ribs W1A to

both sides of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ribs W1.

❏ 5. Position the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ribs W1 and

W3 and the die-cut 3-ply ribs W2 and W4 over the main

spar, perpendicular to the building board. Slide the die-cut
1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center wing panel shear web over
the ribs.

❏ 6.Install the 3/16" x 3/8" x 18" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

457.2mm]

basswood top main spar.

❏ 7. Insert the die-cut 3-ply wing dowel support at the

front of ribs W2.

❏ 8. Cut one of the 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa trailing edges

16-1/2" [419mm] long. Pin the TE in position over the plan.

❏ 9. Pin the wing ribs to the building board.
❏ 10.With the ribs and wing spar flat against the building

board, use thin CA to glue the bottom main spar and shear
web to the ribs. Do not glue the top main spar to the shear
web or ribs. Before gluing, make sure the shear web is
against the front of the notch in ribs W3 and W4 and rib W4
is perpendicular to the building board. Glue the wing dowel
support to ribs W2.Then, center the W1 ribs behind the two
1/4" holes and glue them to the wing dowel support. Check
that the aft ends of the ribs are flat on the building board.
Then, glue the ribs to the TE. Remove the top spar, run a
bead of medium CA along the top of the shear web and
reinstall the top main spar. Finish gluing the top spar to
the ribs.

❏ 11. From the 3/32" x 1/2" x 30" (2.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa stick cut two 6" long sub LE pieces. Glue the
sub LE, centered vertically on the front of ribs W2 through

W4.

14

❏ 12. Use a sanding bar with 150-grit sandpaper to sand

the top of the sub LE and wing dowel support flush with the
top of the ribs.

❏ 13. Cut two sheets of 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6mm x 76.2mm

x 609.6mm] balsa 16-1/2" [419mm] long. From one of the
16-1/2" [419mm] sheets, cut two strips 3/4" [19mm] wide.
Glue one of the strips to the edge of the second 16-1/2"
[419mm] sheet to make a forward wing sheet.

❏ 14.To glue the forward wing sheet to the top of the wing,

apply a bead of medium CA to the forward half of the top
main spar.Position the wing sheet so that the aft edge of the
sheet is centered on the top main spar. When the CA has
cured, apply a bead of medium CA to the top of each wing
rib, along the sub LE and the wing dowel support. Pull the
sheet down, making sure it contacts the surface of each rib
and the sub LE. Hold it in place until the CA has cured.

Hint: To help apply even pressure on the sheet while pulling
it over the sub LE, we use a 12" [304.8mm] sanding bar with
150-grit sandpaper placed on top of the sheet.

❏ 15. Glue the second 1/16" x 3/4" x 16-1/2" [1.6mm x

19mm x 419mm] balsa strip to the aft edge of the ribs, flush
against the forward edge of the balsa TE.

❏ 16. From the remaining 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa sheets cut

in step 13, sheet the center-section of the wing.

❏ 17. From a third 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x

609.6mm] balsa sheet and sheeting remaining from step 16,
cut and glue the center wing outer sheeting.

❏ 1. Remove the wing center-section from your building

board and check all the glue joints. Sand any excess glue
from the bottom.Also, sand the sub LE flush with the bottom
of the wing ribs.

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing

Center-Section

15

❏ 2. Pin the top wing spar flat against your building board.

Position the 1/4" x 5/8" x 30" balsa wing leading edge
under the TE.Do not glue it to the TE.Use T-pins or weight
to hold it down against the building board.

❏ 3. Cut two sheets of 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6mm x 76.2mm

x 609.6mm] balsa 16-1/2" [419mm] long. From one of the
16-1/2" [419mm] sheets, cut two strips, one 3/4" [19mm]
wide and a second one 1-1/2" wide. Glue the 3/4" strip to
the edge of the second 16-1/2" [419mm] sheet to make a
forward wing sheet.

❏ 4. To glue the forward wing sheet to the top of the wing,

apply a bead of medium CA to the forward half of the top
main spar.Position the wing sheet so that the aft edge of the
sheet is centered on the top main spar. When the CA has
cured, apply a bead of medium CA to the top of each wing
rib, along the sub LE and the wing dowel support. Pull the
sheet down, making sure it contacts the surface of each rib
and the sub LE. Hold it in place until the CA has cured.

❏ 5. Glue the 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 16-1/2" [1.6mm x 38mm x

419mm] balsa strip to the aft edge of the ribs, flush with the
aft edge of the TE.

❏ 6. From the remaining 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa sheets cut in

step 3 and another 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x

609.6mm] balsa sheet, sheet the center and outer section of
the wing.

❏ 7. Remove the wing center-section from your building

board.Trim the forward wing sheeting flush with the sub LE.

❏ 8. Cut and glue the 1/4" x 5/8" x 30" [6.4mm x 15.9mm x

762mm] balsa leading edges to the front of the sub LE.
Trim and sand the LE and forward sheeting flush with
ribs W2.

❏ 9. Trim and sand the LE, sub LE, top and bottom

sheeting, wing spars and TE flush with ribs W4.

16

❏ 10. Use a Great Planes Power Plane

™

and sanding bar

to shape the LE to the shape shown on the wing plan.

❏ 11. Use the Power Plane and sanding bar to shape the

TE to the shape shown on the wing plan.

❏ 12. Use a hobby knife to carefully cut a slot in the root

ribs W4 and ribs W3 to allow the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood wing joiner to be inserted. Set the center-section
off to the side.

❏ ❏ 1.Cover the left wing panel plan from W-4 to the wing

tip with waxed paper or Great Planes Plan Protector. Note:
The outer wing panel will first be assembled without glue.
Then, in step 9, the wing panel will be glued together.

❏ ❏ 2.Match two of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" [4.8mm x 9.5mm

x 762mm] basswood main spars so any warps will
counteract each other.

❏ ❏ 3.Position one of the main spars over the plan and pin

it to the building board. Because the wing uses a center
shear web the main spar can only be pinned outboard of the
W4 and W10 ribs.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ribs W5

through W10 and the die-cut 3-ply rib W4 over the main
spar, perpendicular to the building board. Slide the die-cut
1/8" [3.2mm] balsa outer wing panel shear web over the
ribs.Use the die-cut 3-ply dihedral gauge to set the angle of
rib W4.

❏ ❏ 5. Install the 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

762mm] basswood top main spar. Pin the wing ribs in
position over the plan, making sure that the bottom of the
ribs are against the building board.

❏ ❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa rib doubler

W5A to the aft outboard side of rib W5.

Build the Left Wing Panel

BUILD THE OUTER WING P ANELS

17

❏ ❏ 7. Carefully tr im or sand the TE of the ribs to match

the angle of the 1/4" [6.4mm] TE stick.

❏ ❏ 8. Cut a 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4mm x 19mm x 762mm]

balsa trailing edg e 24" [609mm] long. Tr im one end of the
24" [609mm] TE to match the angle at rib W5. Pin the TE in
position over the plan. From the remaining TE stick, cut the
TE to fit between the W4 and W5 ribs.

❏ ❏ 9.With the ribs and wing spar flat against the building

board, use thin CA to glue the bottom main spar and shear
web to the ribs. Do not glue the top main spar to the shear
web or ribs. Before gluing, make sure the shear web is
against the front of the notch in ribs W4 and W5 and rib W4
is set at the correct angle using the dihedral gauge. Check
that the aft end of the ribs and the 1/4" [6.4mm] TE are flat
on the building board.Then, glue the ribs to the TE.Remove
the top spar, run a bead of medium CA along the top of the
shear web and reinstall the top main spar.Finish gluing the
top spar to the ribs.

❏ ❏ 10. Glue the 3/32" x 1/2" x 30" [2.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] sub LE centered on the front of the ribs.

❏ ❏ 11. Use a sanding bar with 150-grit sandpaper to

sand the top of the sub LE flush with the top of the ribs and
the top of the ribs with the wing spar.

❏ ❏ 12.From one of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm

x 762mm] balsa sheets, cut two strips 3/4" [19mm] wide.
Glue one of the strips to the edge of a second 1/16" x 3" x
30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x 762mm] sheet to make a 3-3/4"
[95mm] wide forward wing sheet.

❏ ❏ 13.To glue the forward wing sheet to the top of the

wing,
apply a bead of medium CA to the forward half of the top
main spar.Position the wing sheet so that the aft edge of the
sheet is centered on the top main spar. When the CA has
cured, apply a bead of medium CA to the top of each wing
rib, and along the sub LE.Pull the sheet down, making sure
it contacts the surface of each rib and the sub LE. Hold it in
place until the CA has cured.

❏ ❏ 14.Trim the second 1/16" x 3/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 19mm

x 762mm] balsa strip to fit between ribs W5 and W10,
against the front of the TE. Glue the str ip to the top of the
ribs and the front of the TE.Trim and glue the remaining strip
between W4 and W5.

❏ ❏ 15. From a third 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm x

762mm] balsa sheet, cut and glue top center sheeting
from ribs W4 to W5.

18

❏ ❏ 16.Trim and glue 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm

x 762mm] balsa cap strips to the top of ribs W6 through

W10.

❏ ❏ 1. Remove the outer wing panel from your building

board. Sand any excess glue from the bottom. Also, sand
the sub LE flush with the bottom of the wing ribs.

❏ ❏ 2. With the wing upside-down, pin the top wing spar,

at rib W4, flat against your building board.Position the 1/4"
x 5/8" x 30" balsa wing leading edge under the TE.Do not
glue it to the TE. Place a leftover 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x

12.7mm] stick under rib W10 so that the rib is1/4" [6.4mm]
off of the building board. Use T-pins or weight to hold the
wing in position.

❏ ❏ 3. From one of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6mm x 76.2mm

x 762mm] balsa sheets, cut two strips, one 3/4" [19mm]
wide and a second one 1-1/2" [38.1mm] wide.Glue the 3/4"
[19mm] wide strip to the edge of a second 1/16" x 3" x 30"
[1.6mm x 76.2mm x 762mm] sheet to make a lower

forward

wing sheet.

❏ ❏ 4. To glue the lower forward wing sheet to the bottom

of the wing, apply a bead of medium CA to the forward half
of the bottom main spar.Position the wing sheet so that the
aft edge of the sheet is centered on the bottom main spar.
When the CA has cured, apply a bead of medium CA to the
bottom of each wing rib and along the sub LE.Pull the sheet
down, making sure it contacts the surface of each rib and
the sub LE. Hold it in place until the CA has cured.

❏ ❏ 5. Trim the 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 30" [1.6mm x 38mm x

762mm] balsa strip, cut in step 3, to fit along the aft edge of
the ribs, from rib W5 to W10, flush with the aft edge of the
TE. Trim a second TE strip to fit from W4 to W5. When
satisfied with the fit, glue them to the bottom of the ribs and
the 1/4" [6.4mm] TE.

❏ ❏ 6. From the remaining 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa sheet

used in step 15, sheet the outer wing panel from rib W4 to
W5.

❏ ❏ 7.T rim and glue 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm x

762mm]

balsa cap strips to the bottom of ribs W6 through W10.

❏ ❏ 8. Remove the outer wing panel from your building

board.Trim the forward wing sheeting flush with the sub LE.

❏ ❏ 9.Glue the 1/4" x 5/8" x 30" [6.4mm x 15.9mm x

762mm]

balsa leading edge to the front of the sub LE.

❏ ❏ 10.Trim and sand the LE, sub LE, top and bottom

sheeting,
wing spars and TE flush with rib W4. Trim the sub LE, top
and bottom sheeting and wing spars with rib W10. Leave
the excess LE and TE until after the wing tip is installed.

❏ ❏ 11.Use a Great Planes Pow er Plane and sanding bar

to shape the LE to the shape shown on the wing plan.

❏ ❏ 12. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to shape the

TE to the shape shown on the wing plan.

Sheet the Bottom of the

Outer Wing Panel

19

❏ ❏ 13. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut a slot in the root

rib W4 and rib W5 to allow the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plyw ood
wing joiner to be inserted.

❏ ❏ 14. Glue the 3-piece die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa wing

tip together.

❏ ❏ 15.Glue the wing tip perpendicular to rib W10, the LE

and the TE.The wing tip should be centered on the LE and
flush with the top of the TE.

❏ ❏ 16. From the 1/8" x 5/8" x 30" [3.2mm x 15.9mm x

762mm] balsa stick, cut and glue wing tip braces to the top
of the wing tip as shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 17. Use a Power Plane and sanding bar to blend the

LE, TE and wing tip braces into the wing tip .Round the edge
of the wing tip.

❏ 18. Return to step 1,

“Build The Left Wing Panel,”

and

build the right wing panel.

❏ 1. Check the fit of the wing joiners in each wing panel.

The longer end of each wing joiner fits in the outer wing
panel. Test fit the outer wing panels to the center wing
panel. If there is a gap between the wing panels, carefully
sand the root ribs until the panels fit tight.

❏ 2. Read this step completely before mixing any epoxy.

For ease of construction, we are going to glue the right outer

Join the Wing Panels

20

wing panel to the center wing panel first. Apply
30-minute epoxy to the back of the shear web, the wing
spars, the edge and front of the wing joiner and the root ribs
of the right outer wing panel and the left root rib of the center
wing panel. Insert the wing joiner in the center wing panel
and slide the outer wing panel over the wing joiner.Wipe off
any excess epoxy with a paper towel dampened with
denatured alcohol. Hold the panels together with masking
tape. Make sure that the wing joiner is tight against the
shear webs. Small bar clamps work great for holding the
wing joiner tight while the epoxy cures.With the center wing
panel flat on your building board, block up the outer wing
panel at rib W10, 2-5/8" [66.6mm] from your building board.

❏ 3. Once the epoxy cures, follow the same procedure to

glue the left outer wing panel to the center wing panel.

❏ 4.Make a mark at the center of the TE of the center wing

panel. Also mark the center of the die-cut 3-ply wing bolt
plate. Use a sanding bar to bevel the edges as shown.

❏ 5. Use epoxy to glue the wing bolt plate, centered on the

top of the wing TE.The aft edge of the plate should be flush
with the TE of the wing.

❏ 6. From the 1/4" x 4" [6.4mm x 101.6mm] hardwood

dowel, cut two wing dowels 1-7/8" [47.6mm] long. Round

both ends of the dowels and test fit them in the wing.They
should protrude out from the wing dowel support
approximately 3/8" [9.5mm].If they are difficult to insert into
the wing, use a 1/4" [6.4mm] drill to clean out the holes. Do
not glue them in until after the wing has been covered.

The wing is now completely assembled. Because the wing
will be used when installing the stabilizer, we suggest that
you wait until after the fuselage is assembled to final sand
the wing.

1. Cover the fuselage plan side view with waxed paper or
Great Planes Plan Protector. When installing the formers,
make sure the embossed lettering is always facing forward.

❏ 2. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 3-ply engine tray

together. Make sure tray ET2 is glued between ET1 and
ET3 and that all the edges are aligned.Wipe off any excess
epoxy before it cures.

❏ 3.Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 3-ply firewall F1A to the

front of F1B. Make sure all the edges are aligned.Wipe off
any excess epoxy before it cures.

Build the Fuselage Sides

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

21

❏ 4. Glue the two halves of the die-cut 3-ply former F2

together. Glue the die-cut 3-ply former F2A to the front of
former F2. Align the two 1/4" [6.4mm] holes and the two
notches.The top of F2 and F2A do not align.

❏ ❏ 5. Position the seven die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa fuse

side pieces over the plan and check their fit. Lightly sand
any tabs or slots as needed. Glue the fuse sides together
with CA, starting at the front of the fuselage.

❏ ❏ 6. Cut and glue the four 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" [3.2mm x

4.8mm x 609.6mm] balsa fuse stringers to the fuse sides.

❏ ❏ 7. Lightly sand the fuse side to remove any excess

glue and smooth out the joints.

❏ 8.Go back to step 5 and assemble the second fuse side.

❏ 9. Place the two fuse sides together and check that they

match up all the way around. If they are not identical, pin
them together and use a sanding bar to make them match.

❏ 10. Lightly sand both sides of each fuselage side to

remove any excess glue.

❏ 11. Lay the fuse sides next to each other so they mirror

each other.Mark one fuse side left side and one right side.

❏ ❏ 12.On the right fuse side, glue the die-cut 3-ply lower

fuse doubler to the fuse side.Align the notches for formers

F2 and F3 and the bottom of the fuselage.

❏ ❏ 13.Glue the die-cut 3-ply wing saddle doubler

(WSD)

to the fuse side. Align the notch for former F3 and the wing
saddle.

22

❏ ❏ 14.Glue the die-cut 3-ply stab saddle doubler (SSD)

to the aft fuse side. Align the stab saddle doubler and the
bottom of the fuse.

❏ ❏ 15.Glue the 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" [3.2mm x 4.8mm x

609.6mm]
balsa fuse side doublers to the top and bottom of the fuse.
The bottom fuse doubler is flush with the bottom of the fuse
side.The top fuse doubler is flush with the bottom of the aft
fuse deck notches.

❏ ❏ 16. Glue the 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" [3.2mm x 4.8mm x

609.6mm] balsa fuse cross braces to the fuse side and the
stringers.Temporarily position the die-cut 3-ply fuse formers
F4 and F5 in the notches of the fuse side. Do not glue the
formers to the fuse side.They are only to position the cross
braces at this time.

❏ ❏ 17.Draw a line perpendicular to the bottom edge of

the
fuselage, 2-3/4" [69.8mm] from the aft end. Sand a taper
from the line to the aft edge of the fuse. Leave the aft edge
approximately 1/32" [.8mm] thick.

❏ 18. Return to step 12 and install the doublers on the left

fuse side.

❏ 1. Cover the Aft Fuse Deck plan, at the bottom of the

fuse plan, with waxed paper or Great Planes Plan Protector .

❏ 2. Glue the two die-cut 3/32" balsa aft fuse deck halves

together over the plan.

❏ 3.From the 3/32" x 3/16" x 24" [2.4mm x 4.8mm x

609.6mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue stringers to the aft fuse deck.

❏ 4. Lightly sand both sides of the aft fuse deck to remove

any excess glue.

Assemble the Aft Fuse Top

23

❏ 1. Cover the Fuselage Top View plan with waxed paper

or Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ 2.Lay the right fuse side on your building board.Align the

front of the fuse with the front of the fuse plan. Use the plan
as a guide to locate the formers. Insert the die-cut 3-ply
formers F2 through F6 in the fuse side. Do not glue them
in yet.

❏ 3. Install the left fuse side on formers F2 and F3.The top

of the former F2 must be flush with the top of the fuse side.
Use masking tape to hold the fuselage together. Tape the
fuse behind F2 and in front of F3. After taping, rotate the
fuse upright.

❏ 4.You will notice at the bottom of former F3 is a

centerline
mark. Darken the mark with a pen. Align this mark with the
centerline and the former location on the fuse plan. Pin the
former to the plan.Align the center joint in former F2 with the
centerline and pin it to the plan.

❏ 5. Pull the fuse sides together at former F4, F5 and F6.

Tape the sides together and pin the formers to the building
board, aligning the mark at the bottom of each former, with
the centerline. Do not put the tape over the top of the fuse.
You will need to check fit the aft fuse deck .

❏ 6.Test fit the aft fuse deck to the fuse and tape it into

place.

❏ 7.Starting at former F2, use thin and medium CA to glue

the fuse sides to the formers. Make sure each former is
aligned with the centerline and against the building board.
Carefully work your way back to former F6. Once the
formers are glued to the fuse sides, glue the aft fuse deck
to the formers and fuse sides.

❏ 8.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 3-ply stabilizer

plate to the fuse sides and the stab saddle doubler.

❏ 9.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the engine tray,

perpendicular
to the front of the firewall. The front of the firewall is F1A.
Note that the wider side of the engine tray is on the right
side when viewed from the firewall.

Assemble the Fuselage

24

❏ 10.Fit the die-cut 3-ply servo tray in the fuselage.To

install
the tray in former F2 you will need to insert one side of the
servo tray ov er F2 and slide it down as f ar as possib le.Then,
slide the other side of the tray over the former.Do not glue
it yet.

❏ 11.Fit the firewall/engine tray to the front of the fuselage.

Make any adjustments so that the fuse sides fit tight against
the firewall and engine tray. The servo tray should fit against
the back of the firewall. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
firewall/engine tra y to the fuse sides .Use clamps to hold the
fuse sides tight against the firewall/engine tray until the
epoxy cures.While waiting for the epoxy to cure, use CA to
glue the servo tray to the firew all, fuse sides and formers F2
and F3.

❏ 12. Glue the die-cut 3-ply forward top tray (FTT) to the

back of the firewall, fuse sides and former F2.

❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 3-ply instrument panel (IP)

perpendicular to the forward top tray.

❏ 14. From leftover 1/8" x 3/16" [3.2mm x 4.8mm] balsa

sticks
used for the fuse stringers, glue two top deck stringers
between the firewall and the instrument panel.

❏ 15. From the 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4mm x 76.2mm x

762mm] balsa sheet, cut two forward top deck sheets 7"
[177.8mm] long. Position the sheet from the firewall to
former F2. Mark and cut a notch for the fuse doubler.
Reposition the sheet and trim it to the middle of the top deck
stringers.When satisfied with the fit, glue the sheeting to the
top of the firewall, the inside of the fuse side, the top deck
stringers and former F2.

❏ 16.Tr im and glue the second sheet to the other side of

the top of the forward deck.

25

❏ 17. Trim the front of the top deck sheets flush with the

front of the firewall. Trim the aft end of the sheets so that
they curve from former F2 to approximately 1" [25.4mm] aft
of the instrument panel.

❏ 18.Test fit the two 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" [9.5mm x

31.7mm

x 38.1mm] hardwood wing hold down blocksin the

notches
of former F3 and the fuse sides, sanding as necessary to
provide a good fit. When satisfied with the fit, use epoxy to
glue the wing hold down blocks to the fuse and former.

❏ 1. Unpin and remove the fuselage from your building

board.Trim off the building tabs from the bottom of formers
F3 through F6. Use a sanding bar to sand the bottom of the
fuse and formers smooth.

❏ 2. Test fit the hardwood slotted landing gear rail in the

notches of the fuse side. Place a piece of 3/32" [2.4mm]
balsa sheet next to the rail.The rail should be flush with the

top of the sheet.If it is not, trim the notch slightly until the rail
fits properly. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the landing gear
rail to the fuse side and the front of former F2.Wipe off any
excess epoxy. Pay special attention to the underside of the
rail where the 1" x 1" x 1" [25.4mm x 25.4mm x 25.4mm]
hardwood torque blocks will be glued in the next step.

❏ 3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the 1" x 1" x 1" [25.4mm x

25.4mm x 25.4mm] hardwood torque blocks to the top of the
landing gear rail, fuse side and former F2.

❏ 4. Test fit the 1/4" x 1" x 5-1/4" [6.4mm x 25.4mm x

133.3mm] plywood fairing mounting plate in the notch in
the 3-ply lower fuse doublers, making sure the 3/32"

[2.4mm]
sheeting will be flush with the top of the fairing mounting
plate.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the fairing mounting plate
to the lower fuse doublers and the fuse sides.Wipe off the
excess epoxy before it cures.

❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 3-ply servo tray support (STS),

perpendicular to the bottom of the servo tray and to the
lower fuse doublers.

Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage

26

❏ 6. Glue a die-cut 3-ply servo mount backup to the

bottom of the servo tray at both ends of the opening for the
rudder and elevator servo. Determine which side your
throttle servo will need to be mounted on.Cut the third servo
mount backup in half and glue it to the bottom of the servo
tray in front and behind the throttle servo mounting hole.

❏ 7. Carefully sand the outside of the 36" [914.4mm] gray

outer pushrod tubes with coarse sandpaper so that the
glue will adhere better.

❏ 8.Use a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit to chamfer the front of the

pushrod tube exit slot at the aft end of the fuselage. You
want the outer pushrod to be as straight as possible when it
is inserted through the slot and the holes in the formers.

❏ 9. Insert the outer pushrods through the slots and the

holes in the formers. Leave approximately 1/4" [6.4mm] of
the pushrod tubes protruding from the front of former F3.
Glue the tubes to the formers and fuse sides. The slots in
the side of the fuse for the pushrod tube exit can be filled
with Hobbico®balsa filler or 50/50 mixture of microballoons
and epoxy.

❏ 10. After the filler has cured, cut off the pushrod tubes,

flush with the fuse side, and use a sanding bar to sand the
outer pushrod tubes and filler flush with the side of the

fuselage. Save the remaining outer pushrod tube for the
throttle outer pushrod tube.

❏ 11. From the leftover balsa stringers, glue sheeting

supports, flush with the fuse sides, to the front of the landing
gear rail and the front and back of the fairing mounting plate.

❏ 12. With the fuselage positioned upside-down on your

building board, sand the fuse sides and formers flush.Sheet
the bottom of the fuse using 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4mm x

76.2mm x 762mm] balsa sheet, applied cross-grain, starting
at the firewall and proceeding to within 1-1/2" [38.1mm] of
the aft end. After the fin is installed the remaining sheeting
will be installed.

❏ 13. Fill any small gaps in the fuselage with balsa filler.

❏ 14. Use a sanding bar to sand the bottom sheeting flush

with the side of the fuse. Blend the top deck into the fuse
sides. Round the edges between the aft fuse deck and fuse
sides and the bottom sheeting and fuse sides.Tr y to do as
much finish sanding now as possible. It is easier to sand
now than after the stab and fin are installed.

27

❏ 1. Position the wing in the wing saddle and visually align

it with the fuselage.

❏ 2. Use a tape measure to measure the distance from the

corner of rib W10 to the center of the tail.Then, measure the
distance on the other side of the fuselage to check if the
distances are the same.Adjust the wing until both distances
are equal. When the wing is perfectly aligned, make
reference marks on the wing trailing edge and the aft fuse
deck to help keep the parts aligned during the next step.

❏ 3.Tape the wing in position so that it cannot move. Use

a 13/64" (or #10) [5mm] drill bit to drill a hole through the
wing at the two punch marks on the wing bolt plate. Two
small 90° triangles will help you to align the drill
perpendicular to the top surface of the wing. Important: Do

not allow the wing to shift during this procedure.

❏ 4. Remove the wing and use a 17/64" [6.7mm] drill bit to

enlarge the holes in the wing only.

❏ 5. Use a 1/4"-20 tap to cut threads into the wing hold

down blocks .After cutting the threads, put a couple of drops
of thin CA on the threads in the wing hold down blocks.
Allow the CA to cure before threading the tap back through
the holes to clean up the threads. Bolt the wing to the fuse
with two nylon 1/4"-20 wing bolts, checking the fit.

❏ 1. Insert a leftover 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12.7mm] balsa

stick in the aft end of the fuselage. The edge of the stick
should be aligned with the aft end of the fuse and protrude
above the stab saddle by 1/2" [12.7mm].The stick is to align
the TE of the stab with the aft end of the fuse.

❏ 2.Test fit the stab on the fuse.You may need to sand the

front of the stab slightly to allow the stab to fit properly.

Mount the Stabilizer & Fin

Mount the Wing on the Fuselage

28

❏ 3. With the wing mounted on the fuse, center the

stabilizer on the stab saddle, aligning the center of the LE
with the center of the fin slot. Align the stab so that the TE
tips are an equal distance from the center of the fuse. From
a few feet behind the fuselage, view the stabilizer, checking
that the stabilizer is parallel with the wing.If not, remove the
stabilizer and sand the saddle slightly. When satisfied with
the fit, use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab to the fuse.

Double-check the stab alignment while the epo xy is

curing.

❏ 4.Remove the stick temporarily installed in step 1 to align

the stab with the aft end of the fuse. Set the fin in position
on the stab.The fin TE m ust line up with the stab TE and the
fin base must be against the stab.Trim and sand the top of
the fin LE so that it is flush with the top of the aft fuse deck.

❏ 5. Sight down the fin, checking that it is in line with the

centerline of the fuselage. It is very impor tant that the fin be
aligned with the centerline of the fuse and perpendicular to
the stab. If it is not, the plane will be difficult to trim for
straight flight. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin to the
stab, aft fuse deck and the aft end of the fuse.

❏ 6. Install the tailgear wire in the rudder and position the

rudder on the fin. Mark the location of the tailgear bear ing
on the TE of the fin.Remove the rudder and cut a slot in the
TE for the tailgear bearing.

❏ 7. Remove the tailgear bearing.Trim and sand the fin TE

so it is flush with the aft end of the fuselage.Finish sheeting
the aft bottom of the fuse with 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa.

29

❏ 1. Turn the fuse upside-down.On one end of the landing

gear rail make, in the groove, a mark 3/4" [19mm] in from
the fuse side and 3/32" [2.4mm] aft from the forward edge
of the landing gear groove.At the other end of the rail, place
a mark 3/4" [19mm] in from the fuse side and 3/32" [2.4mm]
forward of the aft edge of the groove.

❏ 2. At both marks drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] diameter hole

through the landing gear rail and torque block,
perpendicular to the rail. Use a hobby knife to round the
edge of the hole to allow the main landing gear wire to seat
completely.

❏ 3. Inser t the 3/16" main landing gear in the slot of the

landing gear rail.

❏ 4. Position the two nylon landing gear straps over the

main landing gear as shown on the plan. Mark the screw
hole locations on the landing gear rail.

❏ 5.Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] diameter pilot hole at each mark.

❏ 6.Temporarily secure the main landing gear to the

landing

gear rail with the landing gear straps and four#2 x 3/8"

screws.

❏ ❏ 1.Trim one matching set of wheel pant halves along

the
molded cut lines. You can use a hobby knife to carefully
score along the cut lines and flex the plastic until the excess
breaks free, or use Hobbico Curved-tip Canopy Scissors to
cut along the lines. Save the leftover ABS cut from the pant
halves.For now, don’t w orry about accurately cutting out the
opening in each wheel pant half – just cut an approximate
opening for the wheel.

❏ ❏ 2. Use your sanding bar to carefully true the edges of

the wheel pant halves so that when you glue them together,
the seam will be as small and straight as possible.Use 150
or 220-grit sandpaper to remove the flashing and

thoroughly

roughen the inside of the wheel pant halves.

❏ ❏ 3. Test fit the wheel pant halves together and make

adjustments where necessary for the best possible fit.

❏ ❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 3-ply wheel pant mount around

the indentation on the inside of the wheel pant. Note the
wheel pant mount orientation in the photo.

Assemble the Wheel Pants

Mount the Landing Gear

30

❏ ❏ 5.Use masking tape to join the two wheel pant halves.

Carefully spot glue them together in just a few places with
thin CA. Start by spot gluing the top, then the front and rear.
After the halves are joined, securely glue them along all
seams with thin CA.

Note: Do not use CA accelerator on the ABS plastic as it
may develop cracks and/or keep the paint from adhering.

❏ ❏ 6. From the leftover ABS, trim and glue strips to the

inside of the wheel pant along the seams.

❏ ❏ 7. To reinforce the wheel pant, use epoxy to glue

fiberglass cloth (not included) over the seam on the inside
of the wheel pant.

❏ ❏ 8. Use a hobby knife or a Dremel

®

Multipro®with a

sanding drum to finish cutting the wheel openings.
Note: Make the wheel openings as wide as possible.This

will make installing the wheels and wheel collars easier and
cause less interference with the wheels upon landing and
taking off.

❏ ❏ 9. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole in the wheel pant at the

bottom of the slot for the landing gear wire.

❏ ❏ 10.Slide the wheel pant over the landing gear wire so

that the wire is recessed into the slot in the wheel pant.
Place a nylon landing gear hump strap centered over the
slot in the wheel pant. Mark the mounting holes, remove the
strap and drill a 1/16" pilot hole at both marks.

❏ ❏ 11. Dr ill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole in the center of the die-

cut 3-ply wheel pant retainer.Slide the wheel pant retainer
over the landing gear (see the following step). Then,
securely attach the wheel pant to the landing gear with the
nylon landing gear strap and two #2 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws.Remove the two screws and apply a drop of thin CA
in each hole to harden the screw threads. After the CA has
cured, reinstall the screws.

❏ ❏ 12. Adjust the position of the wheel pant so that the

axle
part of the landing gear is per pendicular to the center line of
the wheel pant. Stand back a few feet from the plane and
view the wheel pant from the front and side, making sure it
is positioned correctly.When satisfied with the position, use
epoxy to glue the wheel pant retainer to the side of the
wheel pant. By using epoxy to glue the retainer on, you can
readjust the position of the wheel pant before the glue

cures.

❏ ❏ 13. After the glue cures, remove the two screws

holding the nylon landing gear strap on the wheel pant.
Slide the wheel pant partially off of the landing gear.Slide a
3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar, a 3" [76.2mm] wheel f ollowed b y
a second 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar onto the landing gear.
Reattach the wheel pant to the landing gear with the nylon
landing gear strap.Refer to the fuse plan for a detailed view
of the wheel pant assembly.

❏ ❏ 14.Adjust and tighten the wheel collars on the landing

gear so that the wheel rotates freely. To secure the wheel
collars on the landing gear, a flat spot should be filed at
each wheel collar location and the set screw tightened on
the flat.

❏ 15. Return to step 1 of

“Assemble The Wheel Pants”

and assemble the other wheel pant.

31

❏ 16. Before painting the wheel pant, fill the seams with

filler such as Bondo®Auto Body Filler or an automotive
scratch and dent glazing compound.We use Bondo most of
the time as it cures quickly and sands easily, but it is
normally sold in large quantities. Automotive glazing
compound usually comes in small tubes, dries quickly and
sands easily, but for proper drying, can only be applied in
thin layers.

❏ 17. After the filler cures, wet sand the wheel pants with

400-grit sandpaper to prepare them for primer.

❏ ❏ 1.Glue two of the die-cut 3-ply fairing doublers, flush

with the long edge of the die-cut 3-ply landing gear fairing.
Measure over 3/16" [4.8mm] and glue two more fairing
doublers.Measure over 2-1/2" [63.5mm] from the long edge
and glue two die-cut 3-ply 1/2" [12.7mm] square fairing
doublers, flush with the top of the fairing.Sand the doublers
flush with the edges of the landing gear fairing.

❏ ❏ 2. Use a sanding bar to round the leading and trailing

edge of the fairing.

❏ ❏ 3.Position two n ylon flat landing gear straps,

approximately
1/2" [12.7mm] from each end of the landing gear fairing.
Mark the mounting holes and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes
at the marks. Attach the straps with #2 x 3/8" screws.

❏ ❏ 4.Take one of the flat nylon straps and bend it slightly

in the center to match the angle of the landing gear fairing
and fairing mounting plate. Make sure that the fairing is
parallel with the side of the fuselage. Mark the mounting
holes and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes. Attach the strap
with #2 x 3/8" screws.

❏ 5. Return to step 1 and install the second landing gear

fairing on the other side of landing gear. After the landing
gear fairings have been installed, remove the screws and

Install the Landing Gear Fairing

32

apply a drop of thin CA in each hole to harden the threads
in the wood.

❏ 6. Trim the windshield along the cut line. Test fit the

windshield on the fuselage and trim it as necessary.

❏ 7. With the windshield temporarily in position, test fit the

wing on the fuselage.The gap between the windshield and
the wing should be approximately 1/32" to 1/16" [.8mm to

1.6mm]. If it is less, lightly sand the wing until it fits. If it is
larger, use leftover balsa to fill the gap.

❏ 1. Test fit your engine to the engine tray. If necessary,

widen the mount to accommodate the engine.

❏ 2.Use a Great Planes Dead Center

™

Hole Locator

(GPMR8130)
or something similar to mark the location of the mounting
holes onto the engine tray. Make sure that the front of the
engine’s drive washer is in front of the engine tray. If you will
be using a spinner that is recessed for the drive washer,
make sure that the back of the spinner is in front of the
engine tray.

❏ 3.Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the engine tray where

you marked the holes. Use a 4-40 x 3/4" machine screw
with a #4 washer to draw four 4-40 blind nuts into the
holes in the bottom of the engine tray. Use a few drops of
CA to permanently glue the blind nuts into position. Harden
the top of the engine tray where the engine mounting lugs
rest by applying thin CA to the area and allowing it to fully
harden before mounting the engine.

❏ 4. Set the engine in position and mark the firewall for the

throttle pushrod, inline with the throttle arm. Remove the

engine and drill a 3/16" hole at the mark. Also, drill a 7/32"
[5.5mm] hole for the fuel line and pressure line to pass
through the firewall.

❏ 5.Temporarily mount the engine to the engine tray with

four 4-40 x 3/4" machine screws and four #4 washers.

❏ 6. Insert a leftover outer pushrod tube through the 3/16"

[4.8mm] hole in the firewall.Glue the outer pushrod tube so
that the pushrod extends 1/4" [6.4mm] out of the firewall.

❏ 7. Test fit the muffler on the engine. Most 2-strokes will

require an extension to get the muffler out past the fuse
side. You may also need to trim the fuse side to clear the
muffler.

❏ 1. Prepare the servos by installing the rubber grommets

and brass eyelets that came with them, on each servo.

❏ 2.From the 6-1/2" [165mm] white nylon inner pushrod,

cut eight 1/8" long bushings.

❏ 3. Slide four bushings evenly spaced onto both 2-56 x

36" [914.4mm] pushrods. Adjust the bushings nearest the

ends of the rods so they will not interfere with the ends of
the outer pushrod tubes and possibly become jammed
during flight. If the bushings slide onto the rods without

much

resistance, use a drop of thin CA to hold them in position.
Hint: Before installing the bushings, wipe off the pushrods

with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol to
remove any oil left on the rods during manufacturing.

Mount the Servos

RADIO INSTALLATION

Install the Engine

33

❏ 4.Thread a nylon clevis approximately 14 turns onto one

end of each pushrod. Remove the backing plate from two
large nylon control horns and connect the horns to the
clevises in the outer hole.

❏ 5. Temporarily install the rudder and elevator on the

plane. Insert the pushrods into the outer pushrod tubes.
Position the control horns on the elevator and rudder as
shown on the plans. Mark the location of the control horn
mounting holes and drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes at the marks.
Temporarily mount the control horns to the elevator and
rudder with the backing plates and 2-56 x 1/2" machine

screws.

❏ 6. Mount the receiver switch on the side of the fuse,

opposite the engine exhaust.We use a Great Planes Switch
& Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000) (not included)
on all of our planes.This allows you to check and charge the
receiver battery without removing the wing.

❏ 7. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in 1/4" foam

rubber (not included).

❏ 8. Temporarily position the receiver and receiver battery

on the fuse bottom. Later, the receiver battery may be
moved f orw ard or aft to balance the plane .Plug the receiver
battery into the receiver switch. Later, after the location for
the receiver battery and receiver have been determined,
use sticks to hold them in position so that they cannot shift
in flight.

❏ 9. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes and mount the elevator,

rudder and throttle servos, using the hardware that came
with your radio. When mounting the elevator and rudder
servos, align the servo arms with the elevator and rudder
pushrods.

❏ 10. With the ser vos centered and the control surfaces in

the neutral position, use a felt-tip pen to mark where the
elevator and rudder pushrods cross the mounting holes in
the servo arms. Note: The servo arms have been painted
for clarity.

❏ 11. Disconnect the clevises from the control horns. Make

a 90° bend at the marks you made. Temporarily install a

34

nylon FasLink™on each pushrod and cut the wire so it
slightly protrudes out of the FasLink.

Note: If necessary, enlarge the holes in the servo arms with
a 5/64" [1.9mm] drill bit (or a #48 drill for precision).

❏ 1. From the 6-1/2" [165mm] white nylon inner pushrod,

cut three 1/8" long bushings.

❏ 2. Slide the three bushings onto the 2-56 x 17-1/2"

[444.5mm] throttle pushrod as shown. If the bushings

slide onto the rods without much resistance, use a drop of
thin CA to hold them in position.

Hint: Before installing the bushings, wipe off the pushrods
with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol to
remove any oil left on the rods during manufacturing.

❏ 3.Thread a nylon clevis approximately 14 turns onto one

end of the pushrod.

❏ 4. Cut the throttle outer pushrod approximately 3"

[76.2mm] from the throttle servo arm.

❏ 5. Insert the throttle pushrod into the throttle outer

pushrod from the engine compartment. Connect the clevis
to the throttle arm.

❏ 6. Remove the throttle servo arm from the throttle servo

and install the brass screw-lock pushrod connector on the
throttle servo arm and secure it with a nylon retainer.

❏ 7. Slide the screw-lock pushrod connector onto the

throttle pushrod. Install the throttle servo arm on the throttle
servo.Install the 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] socket head cap screw
in the screw-lock pushrod connector and adjust the throttle.

SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this procedure with
“checking the C.G.” or “balancing the airplane fore and
aft.” That very important step will be covered later in
the manual.

Now that you hav e the basic airfr ame nearly completed, this
is a good time to balance the airplane laterally (side-to­side). Here is how to do it.

❏ 1. Temporarily attach the wing to the fuselage.
❏ 2. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the

model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.

❏ 3. If one wing tip always drops when you lift the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been

laterally balanced will track better in loops and other
maneuvers.

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY

Install the Throttle Pushrod

35

Remove the engine, landing gear, pushrods and control
horns. Fill any scuffs and dings with balsa filler or by
“expansion.” See the

Expert Tip

below. After the filler has
dried, use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to even
and smooth all the edges, seams and surfaces. Sand a
radius along the bottom and top edge of the fuse. Remove
all the balsa dust from the model with compressed air, a
tack cloth or a vacuum with a brush.

The Old Timer 40 does not require much painting to obtain
the scheme shown on the box, as most of the finish is done
with Top Flite MonoKote cov ering.The only painting required
is the windshield frame and wheel pants.

The technique we will describe here is how the model
pictured on the box was finished.

Cover the model with Top Flite MonoKote film, using the
sequence that follows.The use of a Top Flite MonoKote Hot
Sock™on your covering iron will prevent scratching the
MonoKote film.

Before you cover the fuselage, first apply 1/4" wide strips of
white MonoKote film in the corners where the stab and fin
meet the fuselage and each other.Proceed to cover the stab
with pre-cut pieces that meet in the corners and overlap the
1/4" strips. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to

cut the covering on the stab after it has been applied
except around the leading and trailing edges and the
tips. Modelers who do this may cut through the covering

and into the stab. This will weaken the structure to a point
where it may fail during flight.

COVERING AN OPEN STRUCTURE WITH MORE
THAN ONE COLOR OF MONOKOTE FILM

A problem some modelers have when co vering with more
than one color of film is that air bubbles can become
trapped in the seam between the two pieces of film.This
becomes a big problem when covering over an open
structure.

The procedure that was used to cover the Old Timer 40
uses a template made from paper for the white and
transparent blue covering. The transparent blue template
was drawn approximately 1/4" [6.4mm] larger than
needed. A piece of transparent blue MonoKote film was
laid on a piece of glass that was lightly wetted with a glass
cleaner such as Windex

®

. A squeegee wrapped with a
paper towel was used to remove the glass cleaner from
under the covering film.The transparent blue film should
now be flat on the glass. Tape the template, for the
transparent blue film, on top of the film.Use the template
as a guide to cut the film.

Follow the same procedure to cut out the white film.

Again, with the transparent blue film flat on the glass,
position the white film so that it overlaps the transparent
blue film by approximately 1/4" [6.4mm]. With a covering
iron set close to high, iron down the seam between the
two colors.

Allow the covering to cool for a minute and carefully start
lifting one end of the white covering. The two pieces
should be connected along the seam. If they are not,
increase the heat of the covering iron and repeat the
process.It may require more heat than normal for the film
to seal caused by the glass absorbing some of the heat.

After removing the film from the glass, position the film on
the structure. Use a covering iron to tack the film down
every few inches.Then go back and seal the covering to
the wood all over.

A heat gun can be used to shrink the covering, but care
must be taken to not pull the seams apart.

Cover the Model with Top Flite

MonoKote

®

Film

Many surface blemishes on a framed model are caused
by bumps and balsa chips on the work surface.This type
of “ding” is best repaired by applying a drop or two of tap
water to the blemish, then running a hot sealing iron over
the spot to expand the wood fibers.After the surface has
dried, sand the expanded area smooth.

Final Sanding

FINISHING

36

We used Top Flite MonoKote White (TOPQ0204),
Transparent Blue (TOPQ0304), Light Purple (TOPQ0224)
and Black (TOPQ0208) to cover our Old Timer 40.

Fuselage and Tail:

❏ 1. 1/4" strips at fin and stab as described
❏ 2. Fin TE, followed by stab TE
❏ 3. Fuselage bottom
❏ 4. Fuselage right side
❏ 5. Fuselage left side
❏ 6. Fuselage top
❏ 7. Stab bottom, followed by top
❏ 8. Fin left side, followed by the right side
❏ 9. Elevator LE
❏ 10. Elevator bottoms, followed by the top
❏ 11. Rudder LE, right side followed by the left side
❏ 12. Die-cut 1/8" 3-ply landing gear fairings

Wing:

❏ 1. Bottom center-section
❏ 2. Bottom right, followed by the left wing panel
❏ 3. Top center-section followed by the right and the left

wing panel

After the model is covered, use fuelproof model paint,
30-minute epoxy thinned with alcohol or finishing resin to
coat areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or exhaust
residue such as the firewall, engine tray, wing saddle and
fuel tank area. Top Flite LustreKote®is a high quality paint
that is fuelproof and perfectly matches Top Flite MonoKote.
The paint is well suited to putting a high quality finish on
ABS wheel pants, but does have a tendency to curl
materials such as styrene and butyrate (windshield and side
windows).

Do not paint the clear windshield with LustreKote directly
from the can.It can cause the plastic to curl.We recommend
Formula-U for painting the clear windshield directly from
the can.

We used LustreKote White (TOPR7204), Black

(TOPR7208)
and Light Purple (TOPR7224) to paint the wheel pants.The
inside of the engine compartment was first coated with
thinned epoxy and was then brushed with white.

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the hinge slots in the elevator

and stab. Also cut the covering from the groove for the
tailgear wire.

❏ 2. Reinstall the CA hinges in the elevator without glue.

INSTALLING CA HINGES

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a 3-layer
lamination of mylar and polyester. It is specially made for
the purpose of hinging model airplane control surfaces.
Properly installed, this type of hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and ease of
installation.We trust even our best show models to these
hinges, but it is essential to install them correctly. Please
read the following instructions and follo w them carefully to
obtain the best results.These instructions may be used to
effectively install any of the various brands of CA hinges.

The most common mistake made by modelers when
installing this type of hinge is not applying a sufficient
amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire
surface area; or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting
the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in
hinges that are only “tack glued” approximately 1/8" to
1/4" into the hinge slots.The following technique has

been

developed to help ensure thorough and secure gluing.

It is best to leave a very slight hinge gap, rather than
closing it up tight, to help prevent the CA from wicking
along the hinge line. Make sure the control surfaces will
deflect to the recommended throws without binding.If you
have cut your hinge slots too deep, the hinges may slide
in too far, leaving only a small portion of the hinge in the
control surface.To avoid this, you may insert a small pin
through the center of each hinge before installing.This pin
will keep the hinge centered while you install the control
surfaces.

Install the Hinges

FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS

Painting Y our Model

Suggested Covering Sequence

37

❏ 3. Apply 6 drops of thin CA adhesive to both sides of

each hinge. Allow a few seconds between drops for the CA
to wick into the slot. Use a paper towel to wipe off any
excess CA that may have gotten onto the covering.

❏ 4.Wipe off the nylon tailwheel bearing with a paper towel

dampened with rubbing alcohol.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
the tailwheel bearing in the aft end of the fuse. After the
epoxy has cured, pack the tailwheel wire hole in the rudder
with 6-minute epoxy. Install the rudder with its hinges.
Repeat the gluing technique described previously and allow
the epoxy to cure.

Hint: Apply a little petroleum jelly to the tail gear wire where
it passes through the nylon bearing. This will prevent the
wire from being glued to the bearing.

❏ 1. Install a 3/32" wheel collar (not included), a 1-1/4" tail

wheel (not included) and a second 3/32" wheel collar on the
tailwheel wire.Secure the wheel collars to the tailwheel wire
with 4-40 set screws (not included).Use thread locking

compound

on the set screws to prevent them from loosening.

❏ 2. Reinstall the landing gear and landing gear fairing on

the fuse and the wheel and wheel pants on the landing

gear.

❏ 1. Reinstall the elevator and rudder control horns. Inser t

the elevator and rudder pushrods in the appropriate outer
pushrods.Slide a silicone clevis retainer over the pushrod
and reinstall the clevises. If you removed the servos,
receiver , receiv er battery and receiver s witch, reinstall them.

❏ 2.Make a strain relief from a cut-off servo arm and place

it on the antenna where the antenna exits the fuse. Route
the receiver antenna out of the fuse.Anchor the antenna to
the top of the fin with a rubber band and T-pin.

Note: Do not shorten the antenna! Leave any excess
trailing behind the model.

❏ 3. Reinstall the engine and throttle pushrod.

❏ 4.Assemble the fuel tank per the manufacturer’s

instructions.
Connect approximately 6" [152.4mm] of fuel tubing to the
fuel pick-up fitting and the pressure fitting on the fuel tank.
Wrap the fuel tank in 1/4" [6.4mm] foam rubber. As you
insert the fuel tank into the fuel tank compartment, route the
fuel tubing out of the firewall.Attach the proper fuel tubes to
the carburetor and muffler. Position a leftover stick behind
the fuel tank and glue it to the fuse sides to hold the fuel
tank in position.

❏ 5. The side windows are cut from the 5-1/2" x 8-1/2"

[139.7mm x 215.9mm] butyrate sheet. Use the template on
the fuselage plan as a guide.Then, trim the side windows to
fit along the inside of the cabin side.After the windows hav e
been trimmed to fit, glue them in place with canopy glue,
such as Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue. We do not
recommend CA, as it may fog the plastic.Use masking tape
to hold it in position while the glue dries.

Finish the Model

Install the Wheels

38

❏ 6. Lightly sand a strip approximately 1/8" [3.2mm] wide

along the inside of the windshield (around the perimeter).
Note: To avoid sanding more than you want, it is helpful to
first apply strips of masking tape on the inside of the
windshield, 1/8" [3.2mm] in from the edge.

❏ 7. Hold the windshield in place on the fuselage. Use a

fine tip marker to trace the outline of the windshield onto the
covering. Remove the windshield and use a sharp #11
blade to cut a 1/8" [3.2mm] strip from the covering just
inside the line you drew.A sharp blade is important, so you
do not have to use much pressure. It will allow you to cut
only the covering and not the underlying wood.

❏ 8. Carefully glue the windshield in place with a canopy

safe glue.Wipe off any excess glue before it dries.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessar y, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary,
adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control
surfaces.

❏ 3.Make certain that the control surfaces and the

carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered.Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface
as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not
have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws between
the low and high rate settings.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators and rudder.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Old Timer 40 has been extensively

flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies
best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you
with the greatest chance for successful first flights.If, after
you have become accustomed to the way the Old Timer
40 flies, you would like to change the throws to suit your
taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could
make the model difficult to control, so remember , “more is
not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 7/8" [22.2mm] up 11/16" [17.5mm] up

7/8" [22.2mm] down 11/16" [17.5mm] down

RUDDER: 5/8" [15.9mm] right 7/16" [11.1m] right

5/8" [15.9mm] left 7/16" [11.1mm] left

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

39

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, covering and paint, and the radio system.

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8"-wide tape to accurately mark

the C.G. on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage.The C.G.is located 4-3/16" [106.4mm] back from
the leading edge of the wing.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the

model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model right side-up on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it right side-up at the balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may
be easily added by using a “spinner weight”(GPMQ4645 for
the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall or engine tray. Begin
by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on
the top of the fuse in front of the firewall until the model
balances. Once you have determined the amount of weight
required, it can be permanently attached. If required, tail
weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse
and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and

exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone
or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any

weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on the decal sheet and place it on or
inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
is highly recommended. All batter y packs, whether it’s a
trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new
battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting
the discharge capacity.Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can
be identified (and a valuable model sav ed!) b y comparing its
actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions
and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you
don’t own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend
cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.

Balance the Propellers

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

This is where your model should balance for your first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G.up to 7/16" [11mm] forward or back to change the
flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may
improve the smoothness and stability, but it may then
require more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult
to slow for landing.Moving the C.G. aft makes the model
more maneuverable, but could also cause it to become
too difficult for you to control. In any case, start at the
location we recommend and do not at any time balance
your model outside the recommended range.

40

Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full

power–indefinitely.
After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model
closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges
are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and
connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio bef ore the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide .Therefore ,

do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your f ace and body as well as all spectators a wa y from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller .Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to tr y to stop the engine. We setup our models so
that the carburetor barrel can be close completely from the
transmitter.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3.Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Ground Check

41

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1.I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit
or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the F ederal

Communications

Commission.

❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue such as the engine plate, firewall, wing
saddle area, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a

strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in the

instructions.

❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that secure wheel
collars, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if
applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 9. Reinforce holes for screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, control horn
screws, etc.).

❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct

direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 11.Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 12. Secure the connection between your battery pack

and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink
tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13.Make sure any servo extension cords you may have

used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14.Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with

high

temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or

J.B.

Weld.

❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not

kinked.

❏ 16.Use an incidence meter to check the wing for twists

and attempt to correct before flying.

❏ 17.Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 18.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 19.Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and

make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 22. Range check your radio when you get to the flying

field.

The Old Timer 40 is a great-flying model that flies smoothly
and predictably. The Old Timer 40 does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter

. Flutter is the rapid back and forth movement of the
control surfaces. Because flutter can quickly destroy
components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter
you must immediately cut the throttle and land the
airplane! Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this
may indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If the control
surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter again under
similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the free­play or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things
which can cause flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not
mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in
horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight
bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue
used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire; Excessive

play

or

backlash

in servo gears; and Insecure servo

mounting.

FLYING

During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more lik ely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown.To help avoid this, a checklist is
provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a

check list!

).

CHECK LIST

42

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessar y, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then
check all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind.When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering.
Then, gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains
speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come off the
ground. One of the most important things to remember with
a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to
counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as your
runway and flying site will practically allow before gently
applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. At this
moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right
rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stic k, allowing the model to estab lish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable
for takeoff, the Old Timer 40 flies great at half throttle on a
.40 size engine.

Take it easy with the Old Timer 40 for the first few flights,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After
flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e altitude with
plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute practice
landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the
model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see how she
climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing various
maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes
may be required to fine tune the model so it flies the wa y you
like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight to become
familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by k eeping the nose do wn as
you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to

maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the r unway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground,
regaining tail wheel control.

One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) y ou already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates).This is not necessarily to improve
your skills

(though it is never a bad idea!)

, but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do
a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and
make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.

Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Landing

Flight

Takeoff

43

TWO VIEW DRA WING

Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme

B C

D A