Great Planes GPMA0495 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THR OUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

(217) 398-8970, Ext. 2

airsupport@greatplanes.com

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 73 in [1854mm] Wing Area: 735 sq in [47 dm

]

Weight: 5-1/4 lb [2434 g] Wing Loading: 17 oz/sq ft [52 g/dm

]

Fuselage Length: 55 in [1397mm] Radio: 3-Channel Engine: .30 – .40 cu in two-stroke,

.40 – .52 cu in four-stroke

™

INTRODUCTION ..........................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ............................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..................................................3

Engine Selection ......................................................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED................................................3

Hardware & Accessories..........................................................3

Adhesives & Building Supplies ................................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ........................................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ................................................5

Common Abbreviations............................................................5

Types of Wood..........................................................................5

Metric/Inch Scale......................................................................5

Die Patterns ......................................................................6 & 7

BUILDING THE T AIL SURFACES................................................8

Build the Stabilizer and Elevator ..............................................8

Make the Outer Frame Laminations ........................................8

CA Lamination Method ............................................................9

Aliphatic Resin Lamination Method..........................................9

Finish the Stab & Elevator......................................................10

Build the Fin & Rudder ..........................................................10

Install the Hinges....................................................................11

Finish the Tail Surfaces ..........................................................13

BUILD THE WING ......................................................................13

Build the Center Wing Panel ..................................................13

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing Center-Section ......................15

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS ........................................17

Build the Left Wing Panel ......................................................17

Sheet the Bottom of the Outer Wing Panel............................19

Join the Wing Panels ..............................................................20

BUILD THE FUSELA GE ............................................................21

Build the Fuselage Sides........................................................21

Assemble the Aft Fuse Top ....................................................23

Assemble the Fuselage..........................................................24

Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage ........................................26

Mount the Wing on the Fuselage ..........................................28

Mount the Stabilizer & Fin......................................................28

Mount the Landing Gear ........................................................30

Assemble the Wheel Pants ....................................................30

Install the Landing Gear Fairing ............................................32

Install the Engine....................................................................33

RADIO INSTALLATION ............................................................33

Mount the Servos ..................................................................33

Install the Throttle Pushrod ....................................................35

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY ................................35

FINISHING..................................................................................36

Final Sanding..........................................................................36

Cover the Model with Top Flite MonoKote

Film ....................36

Suggested Covering Sequence..............................................37

Painting Your Model................................................................37

FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS..................................................37

Install the Hinges....................................................................37

Install the Wheels ..................................................................38

Finish the Model ....................................................................38

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY............................................39

Check the Control Directions..................................................39

Set the Control Throws ..........................................................39

Balance the Model (C.G.) ......................................................39

PREFLIGHT ..............................................................................40

Identify Your Model ................................................................40

Charge the Batteries ..............................................................40

Balance the Propellers ..........................................................40

Ground Check ........................................................................41

Range Check ..........................................................................41

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............................................41

AMA SAFETY CODE ................................................................41

General ..................................................................................41

Radio Control..........................................................................42

CHECK LIST..............................................................................42

FLYING ......................................................................................42

Takeoff ....................................................................................43

Flight ......................................................................................43

Landing ..................................................................................43

TWO VIEW........................................................Back Cover Page

FUSE & WING PLANS..........................Center Pull-Out Section

The Great Planes Old Timer™40 is a very gentle, easy to fly plane. The classic lines of the Old Timer 40 will bring back memories of when R/C was in its infancy. The Old Timer 40 flies great at half throttle on a .40-size engine and a 3-channel radio.If you enjoy spending a lazy afternoon just puttering around the sky, then you’re going to love the Old Timer 40.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Old Timer 40, visit the web site listed below and select the Great Planes Old Timer 40. If there is new technical information or changes to this kit, a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

1. Your Old Timer 40 should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Old Timer 40, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.

6.You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the

PRO TECT Y OUR MODEL, Y OURSELF & OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970, or e-mail us at:

oductsupport@greatplanes.com

If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please be sure to provide the full kit name (Old Timer 40) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.

You can also check the following web site for the latest Old Timer 40 updates:

www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

If you are new to R/C, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights.If you’re not a member of a club, y our local hobb y shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available

at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:

This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the Old Timer 40. Order numbers are provided in parentheses and are recognized by most distributors and hobby shops and are listed for your convenience.

❏ Engine – s

ee “Engine Selection” above

❏ 3-Channel with 3 standard servos ❏ (2) 3" Main wheels (GPMQ4225) ❏ (1) 1-1/4" Tail wheel (GPMQ4242) ❏ (1) 2-1/4" Spinner ❏ Propeller (Top Flite

Power Point®); refer to your

engine’s instructions for proper size.

❏ Medium fuel tubing 2' (GPMQ4131) ❏ (1) 8oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4103) ❏ 1/4" Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1000) ❏ Fuelproof paint – s

ee “Painting” section

❏ (2) 3/32" Wheel collar (GPMQ4302) ❏ (4) 3/16" Wheel collar (GPMQ4308) ❏ Switch and Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000) ❏ (4) Rolls covering film

Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

.30 - .40 cu. in. 2-stroke .40 - .52 cu. in. 4-stroke

The Old Timer 40 is a large airplane, but is b uilt v ery light. When it was test flown, the O.S.®.40LA engine provided plenty of power. It easily cruised around at half throttle. Using a more powerful engine is not necessary.If you are installing a 2-stroke engine, an exhaust extension is required for the muffler to clear the side of the fuselage.

Engine Selection

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: (800) 435-9262

Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Old Timer 40.

We recommend Great

Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 1 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002) ❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008) ❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045) ❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047) ❏ Canopy glue ❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105) ❏ #11 blades (HCAR0211) ❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212) ❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100) ❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018) ❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480) ❏ Electric drill and 1/16" [1.6mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 5/32"

[3.9mm], 3/16" [4.7mm], 7/32" [5.5mm] drill bits

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105) ❏ Small phillips and flat blade screwdrivers ❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630) ❏Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or wax

paper

❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment

(see Expert

Tip - “Easy-Touch™Bar Sander” section)

❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Old Timer 40.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475) ❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456) ❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039) ❏ CA Applicator tips (GPMR6033) ❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034) ❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090) ❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060) ❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055) ❏Threadlocker (GPMR6060) ❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up) ❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line (for

stab alignment)

❏ Felt-Tip marker (TOPQ2510) ❏ Razor plane ❏ Small metal file ❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

Moto-Tool

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020) ❏ 1/16" to 1/4" drill bit set ❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts

(HCAR0667)

❏Dead Center

™

engine mount hole locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Great Planes AccuThrow

™

deflection gauge (for

measuring control throws, GPMR2405)

❏ Accu-Point

™

laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the Old Timer 40, we used three 11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit, 150-grit and 220-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) 11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170) 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172) 33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174) 44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176) 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180) 150-grit (GPMR6183) 180-grit (GPMR6184) 220-grit (GPMR6185) Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

• There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and

a length.

For example #6 x 3/4"

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4"

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with forty threads per inch.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.

• Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete name stamped on them, so refer to the die patterns on pages 6 and 7 for identification.When it’s time to remov e the parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do not force them out. Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger scraps of wood.

• The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single-edge razor blade or razor saw. Position the stick over the plan, mark its size, then cut the part on a piece of scrap wood. A modeling miter box works well for cutting square corners and 45° gussets.

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge LG = Landing Gear Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

Types of Wood

Common Abbreviations

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

DIE PATTERNS

❏ 1.Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so they will

lie flat.

❏ 2.The stabilizer and fin LE and elevator and rudder TE

are built using five laminations of balsa.These instr uctions will cover two methods to build them. The first method is quick and uses CA, but may be more difficult to sand a radius on the lamination.The second method requires more time and uses Aliphatic Resin (wood glue), but is much easier to sand. Both methods work well and it is up to you which method you prefer.

❏ 3. If you are going to use the aliphatic resin method to

build the laminations, we recommend that you cut out the stabilizer/elevator and fin/rudder plans from the wing plan. Pin the plans in a corner of your building board so that you can continue working on the wing while waiting for the glue to dry on the laminations. Cover the stabilizer/elevator plan with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏ 4. From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 7" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 178mm]

basswood stick, trim and pin the elevator joiner over the plan.

❏ 5. From one of the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa sticks, cut the two elev ator LE halvesso that they fit tight against the elevator joiner.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the elevator LE’s to the elevator joiner.

❏ 6. From the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12.7mm]

balsa stick and a second 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 762mm] balsa stick, cut and glue the remaining frame to the elevator LE.

❏ 7. From a third 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa stick cut the stabilizer TE to length and pin it over the plan.

❏ 8. From the remaining 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4mm x 12.7mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the stabilizer TE doubler to the TE and the aft stabilizer center to the TE doubler.

❏ 9. Trim and glue the 1/4" x 3" x 4" [6.4mm x 76.2mm x

102mm] balsa stabilizer center to the aft stabilizer center.

❏ 10. Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa bending jigs in

position over the stab/elevator plan.

This is where you have a choice on how you are going to proceed: The CA or aliphatic resin method or if you have another favorite method to laminate LE and TE’s.

Make the Outer Frame Laminations

Build the Stabilizer & Elevator

BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES

❏ ❏ 1. Select two 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm x

762mm] balsa strips for the stab/elevator outer frame. Wet one side of the first strip by dipping your finger in water , then running it along the one side of the strip. Take care not to wet both sides.Using medium CA, secure the dry side of the strip to the middle of the stab center, working toward the

edge.

Note: Water accelerates CA much like commercial accelerators, so be careful not to get anything wet that should not be.

Hint: Another way to wet the strips is by holding them in the air and spraying with a spray bottle. Do not spray the strips while sitting on a flat surface, or both sides will get wet.

❏ ❏ 2. Slowly wrap the two glued strips from the stab

center all the way around to the center of the TE of the elevator, securing it to the end of the elevator LE and stab TE edge with thin CA. Take care to stay tight against the bending jigs. Do not glue the strip to the bending jigs.

❏ ❏ 3.Wet one side of the next strip.Turn it over and lay a

bead of medium CA down the center of the strip. Glue the strip onto the previously installed strip.

Note: If you work quickly, the previous strip will still be wet on the outside. This will accelerate the CA, securing the strips to one another immediately. If you crack the strip, don’t worry.Just hold it in place until the CA cures and then, seal it with thin CA if necessary.

❏ ❏ 4. Apply 5 str ips to make a lamination 1/4" x 5/16"

[6.4mm x 7.9mm].

❏ 5. Return to step 1 and repeat the lamination process on

the other side of the stabilizer and elevator.

6. Proceed to

“Finish the Stabilizer and Elevator.”

❏ ❏ 1.Select ten of the 1/16" x 1/4" x 30" [1.6mm x 6.4mm

x 762mm] balsa strips and wet them thoroughly with warm water. Allow the strips to set a few minutes so they can become more pliable.

❏ ❏ 2. Stack five of the strips together. Starting at the

middle of the stabilizer center, carefully bend the strips around the bending jigs, holding the strips in place with T-pins. Do not use any glue.

❏ ❏ 3.Trim the strips approximately 1" [25.4mm] past the

elevator root.

❏ 4.Return to step 2 and position the second five strips on

the other side of the stabilizer.

❏ 5. Allow the wood to dry thoroughly, a couple of hours.

This is a good time to skip ahead to

“Build the Fin and

Rudder.”

Aliphatic Resin Lamination Method

CA Lamination Method

❏ 6. After the wood strips have dried, remove the pins

holding the strips in position.The strips should closely hold the shape of the stabilizer.

❏ 7. Use CA to glue the first strip to the front of the

stabilizer center, the end of the stab TE and elevator LE and the rudder root.

❏ 8.Apply a bead of aliphatic resin to the next strip.Spread

the glue out and position the strip against the first strip. Apply glue to the rest of the strips and pin them in position. Use T-pins to hold the strips tight against each other.Wipe off any excess glue before it dries. Glue all ten strips together, five on each side of the stab/elevator.

❏ 1. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue stab and elevator ribs as shown on the plan.

❏ 2. After the glue has cured, unpin the stab/elevator from

your building board.Inspect all the glue joints and re-glue if necessary. Use a bar sander or a large sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to sand the entire top and bottom surface of the stab/elevator flat and even. Be careful while sanding so that you do not over-thin an y one particular area of the stab/elevator or gouge the ribs by snagging the sandpaper on them.

❏ 3. Round all edges of the stab and elevator to the shape

shown on the cross-section on the plan. Hint: Once you have the stab and elevator completely sanded, use a piece of tape to mark the bottom of the stab and elevator to ensure proper assembly later.

❏ 4. Cut the stab outer frame between the elevator LE and

the stab TE. Separate the stab from the elevator. Sand the outer frame flush with the LE and TE.

❏ 5. Mark and cut the slot for the fin tail post to pass

through the stab TE.

❏ 1. Cover the fin/rudder plan with wax paper or Great

Planes Plan Protector so glue will not adhere.

❏ 2. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa fin bases

together to make a 1/4" thick base. Pin the fin base in position over the plan.

❏ 3.From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue the fin TE to the fin base.

Build the Fin & Rudder

Finish the Stabilizer & Elevator

❏ 4.From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" [6.4mm x 12.7mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and pin the rudder LE over the plan. Cut

and

glue the rudder LE doubler to the back of the rudder LE.

❏ 5. Pin the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa bending jigs over

the fin/rudder plan. Follow the same procedure used to laminate the stabilizer/elevator to make the fin/rudder lamination using the 5 pieces of 1/16" x 1/4" x 30 [1.6mm x

6.4mm x 762mm] balsa strips.

❏ 6. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2mm x 6.4mm x 762mm]

balsa stick, cut and glue fin and rudder ribs as shown on the plan.

❏ 7. Unpin the fin/rudder from your building board.Inspect

all the glue joints and re-glue if necessary .Use a bar sander or a large sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to sand both sides of the fin/rudder flat and even. Be careful while sanding so that you do not over-thin an y one particular area of the fin/rudder or gouge the ribs by snagging the sandpaper on them.

❏ 8. Round all edges of the fin/rudder to the shape shown

on the cross-section on the plan.

❏ 9.Cut the outer frame between the rudder LE and the fin

TE. Separate the fin from the rudder. Sand the outer frame flush with the LE and TE.

❏ 1. Lay the fin and rudder over the plan and lightly mark

the hinge locations on the LE of the rudder and the TE of the fin. Repeat the process to mark the hinge locations on the LE of the elevator and the TE of the stab.

❏ 2. We have simplified the task of cutting hinge slots with

the introduction of the Great Planes Slot Machine™. This simple electric tool cuts a perfect width slot for CA hinges.

❏ 3. To cut the hinge slot, first locate the centerline of the

LE and TE edges using the Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool (GPMR4005). Then place the blades of the Slot Machine onto the wood where you want the slot.Lightly press the teeth into the wood. When you are satisfied with

Install the Hinges

the location, press the button on the handle and the blades will cut easily into the balsa wood.

❏ 4. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] deep in the

center of the hinge slots. The use of a Dremel Rotary Tool with a 3/32" drill bit or carbide cutter will give you a cleaner hole than an electric drill. After dr illing the holes, use your hobby knife to clean out the hinge slots.

❏ 5. Cut the 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25.4mm] hinges for the

control surfaces from the supplied 2" x 9" [50.8mm x

228.6mm] hinge material. Then, snip off the corners as shown on the wing plan. Temporarily join the control surfaces with the hinges, adjusting any hinge slots if necessary so they all align.Do not glue in the hinges until

you are instructed to do so after the airplane is covered.

❏ 6. Lay the rudder over the fuse plan and mark the

location for the tailgear wire.

❏ 7. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 3/4" [19mm] deep, at the

centerline of the rudder LE, at the mark you made for the tailgear wire. Then, cut a groove for the nylon tailgear bearing. See the following

Expert Tip

. Test fit the tailgear

wire in the rudder.

HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A TAILGEAR WIRE

Use a #11 knife blade to sharpen the inside of a piece of 5/32" [4mm] brass tube. Roll the tube as you sharpen the end.

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SLOT MACHINE

Cut the hinge slot in the rudder, fin, stab and elevator using a Hobby Knife with a #11 blade. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location to accurately establish the hinge slot. Make three or four more passes, going a little deeper each time.As you cut, slide the knife from side to side until the slot has reached the proper depth and width for the hinge.

❏ 1.Remove the tailgear wire from the rudder and place its

leading edge on your work surface.Use a pen, laying on the bench, to mark a “bev el to”line on both sides, approximately 3/32" [2.4mm] high.

Note: You may need to adjust the height of the rudder with card stock so your “bevel to”line is not too high.

❏ 2.Using the “bevel to”lines and the centerline as a guide,

shape the LE to a “V”shape using a razor plane or the Great Planes Multi-Sander (GPMR6190) with 150-grit sandpaper.

❏ 3. Use the same procedure to bevel the LE of the

elevator.

❏ 4. Lay the rudder over the plan and mark the cutout on

the LE for the elev ator joiner. Use a razor saw or hobby knife to cut the LE for the elevator joiner.

❏ 5.Temporarily attach the rudder to the fin and the

elevator

to the stab using the CA hinges and set them aside.

❏ 1.Cover the center wing panel plan from W -4 to W-4 with

waxed paper or Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Match two of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 18" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

457.2mm] basswood main spars so any warps will counteract each other.

Build the Center Wing Panel

BUILD THE WING

Finish the Tail Surfaces

Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading edge of the rudder.You’ll have to make several passes to make the recess deep enough for the tailgear wire.

❏ 3. Position one of the main spars over the plan and pin it

to the building board.Because the wing uses a center shear web, the main spar can only be pinned outboard of the W4 ribs.

❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sub ribs W1A to

both sides of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ribs W1.

❏ 5. Position the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa ribs W1 and

W3 and the die-cut 3-ply ribs W2 and W4 over the main

spar, perpendicular to the building board. Slide the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center wing panel shear web over the ribs.

❏ 6.Install the 3/16" x 3/8" x 18" [4.8mm x 9.5mm x

457.2mm]

basswood top main spar.

❏ 7. Insert the die-cut 3-ply wing dowel support at the

front of ribs W2.

❏ 8. Cut one of the 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa trailing edges

16-1/2" [419mm] long. Pin the TE in position over the plan.

❏ 9. Pin the wing ribs to the building board. ❏ 10.With the ribs and wing spar flat against the building

board, use thin CA to glue the bottom main spar and shear web to the ribs. Do not glue the top main spar to the shear web or ribs. Before gluing, make sure the shear web is against the front of the notch in ribs W3 and W4 and rib W4 is perpendicular to the building board. Glue the wing dowel support to ribs W2.Then, center the W1 ribs behind the two 1/4" holes and glue them to the wing dowel support. Check that the aft ends of the ribs are flat on the building board. Then, glue the ribs to the TE. Remove the top spar, run a bead of medium CA along the top of the shear web and reinstall the top main spar. Finish gluing the top spar to the ribs.

❏ 11. From the 3/32" x 1/2" x 30" (2.4mm x 12.7mm x

762mm] balsa stick cut two 6" long sub LE pieces. Glue the sub LE, centered vertically on the front of ribs W2 through

W4.

+ 32 hidden pages

Great Planes GPMA0495 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual