Great Planes GPMA0490 User Manual
FUN-ONE
INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In
no
case
shall
Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he is advised
to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
P.O. BOX 788 URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801 217/367-2069
FUN1P02
of
the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes
reserves
the
right
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Precautions
Decisions You Must
Make Now
Other Items Required
Supplies and Tools Needed ..... 4
Die Patterns
Abbreviations
Types
Get Ready to
TAIL FEATHERS
Build the Stabilizer and
Build the Fin and Rudder ....... 8
Temporarily Install the Hinges ...9
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
Prepare Fuse Sides
Prepare Firewall
Assemble the Fuselage
WING ASSEMBLY
Build
Join
Sheet the Leading Edges
Add the Center Sheeting
Install Aileron Torque Rods ..... 25
Install Ailerons ............... 26
FINAL
Install
Install
Mount Stabilizer
of
Elevators .................. 6
the Wing Panels
the Wing
ASSEMBLY
Landing
Engine
Fit Fuel Tank and
Fuelproof Tank Compartment .. 28
.................
Wood
.............3
.................
.........
.................
................
...............
Build
Panels
................
...........
.............6
......
...........
.............
........
...........16
.........
..........
......
.......
...........27
Gear
.........
and
Fin
.......
3
4
4
5
6
6
6
10
10
11
11
16
18
22
24
.27
27
29
Shaping and Sanding ......... 31
INSTALL PUSHRODS AND
RADIO COMPONENTS
One Aileron Servo
Two Aileron Servos
Rudder, Elevator and
Throttle Servos ............. 32
Control Surface Throws ........ 33
Install Receiver, Switch
and Battery ................ 33
FINISHING .................34
Balance the Airplane Laterally ... 34
Final
Sanding
Covering ................... 34
Attach the Wing Tips .......... 34
Glue the Hinges .............. 35
Glue Canopy in Place
Wing Seating ................ 36
Balance Your Model ........... 36
Final Hookups and Checks ..... 36
PRE-FLIGHT
Charge the Batteries .......... 37
Find a Safe Place to Fly
Ground Check the Model
Range Check
Engine Safety Precautions ..... 37
AMA SAFETY CODE
FLYING
Takeoff ..................... 38
Flying ......................38
Caution .................... 39
Landing .................... 39
....................38
................37
............
................
Your
Radio
.......
...........
.........
.......
.......
......
.........38
31
31
31
34
35
37
37
37
Install
Build
Canopy
the Wing
...............
Fairing
.........
30
30
2-VIEW ....................39
PARTS LIST
2
................40
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property
damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to build this kit correctly, properly install
all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly it only with
experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set
down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become.
properly insured before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING,
CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Dr.
Reston, VA 22090 (703)435-0750
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes FUN-ONE!
The Great Planes FUN-ONE defines a new type of sport
airplane. Its sleek looks arc not characteristic of the type of
planes that are as maneuvcrable as the FUN-ONE. This
state-of-the-art kit will provide you with many hours of
enjoyment from this point on - even the construction is FUN!
So lets begin.
NOTE: This is not a beginner's airplane! While the FUNONE is easy to build and flies great, we must discourage you
from selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It is highly
maneuverable, and lacks the self-recovery characteristics of
a good basic trainer such as the Great Planes PT Series
airplanes. On the other hand, if you have already learned the
basics of R/C Flying and you are able to safely handle an
"aileron trainer" airplane such as the Great Planes Trainer
Series or Big Stick Series airplanes, the FUN-ONE is an
excellent choice.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 367-2069 and we'll be glad
to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them
ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few
cases the plans and instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances you should assume the plans
and written instructions are correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct ci/.cd engine and correct compo-
nents (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout your building
process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the
air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent help of
a well experienced R/C pilot if you are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fly-ability of your finished model depends on how
you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no representations arc expressed or implied as to the performance or safely
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
.25 - .40 cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
.40 -.50 cubic inch displacement 4-cycle
NOTE: There arc several "High Power" .25 to .34 size
engines available which have as much power has
some .40 size engines yet weigh about the same as
most .25 size engines. We highly recommend cither
the OS Max .32 or the Super Tigrc G34. The FUNONE can structurally handle hot .40 size engines but
be careful about using heavy engines. The short tail
moment and swept wing makes it easy to end up with
a nose heavy model!
This kit includes a Great Planes MM19 engine
mount that fits most .20 - .34 (2-cyclc) engines. If you
prefer, you may purchase a custom engine mount
made specifically for your engine (check with your
hobby dealer), or you may choose to install shock-absorbing rubber-cushioned mounts.
SELECTION OF WHEELS
To save weight, we recommend using lightweight
foam rubber wheels.
2-3/4" diameter main wheels are recommended.
The larger the diameter the more they will absorb
hard landings and the better they will roll on grass
fields). If you build it with tricycle landing gear, the
nose wheel should be 1/4" smaller than the main
wheels.
A 1-1/4" diameter tailwheel is recommended.
RADIO INSTALLATION
The FUN-ONE is capable of using computer radios and other radios with mixing functions to provide flapcron type control. This type of mixing uses
a separate servo for each aileron and allows both ailerons to move in relation to the elevator. The
flapcrons will drop when up elevator is applied, and
vicc-vcrsa, which enables the plane to perform very
tight maneuvers and also enhances its slow flight
capabilities. This setup also provides Ihc most precise flight characteristics since The ailerons are hooked
directly to the servo with the control horn in the
middle of the aileron (very little slop).
If you have a radio without mixing capabilities
you will normally install only one servo in the center
of the wing. NOTE: If you arc going to use a high
power .40 size engine you should consider using two
aileron servos connected by a Y-harness to achieve
the precise control offered by this set-up. There is
also much less chance of aileron flutter with two
servos.
There are several places in the instructions which
alert you to perform different steps depending on the
setup you choose. You might also consider installing
the servo rails and tubes for two servos even though
you may not plan on using two servos right now.
They do not add much weight and they will be there
if you ever need them.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
0 Four-channel radio with 4 servos (A radio with at least
five channels, 5 servos and mixing capabilities is
required if flaperons will be used).
0 Propellers (see engine instructions for recommended
sizes).
0 Spinner (2" diameter)
0 Fuel Tank (6 ounce)
0 5/32" Wheel Collars (2 - for tricycle)
0 3/32" Wheel Collars (2 - for taildragger
0 2 Rolls Monokote covering (or similar)
0 Silicone Fuel Tubing (std. size)
0 Wing Seating Tape (or silicone sealer ... see
instructions)
0 Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
0 Dubro "E-Z Connector" (or equivalent)
0 Flex-Cable Pushrod for Throttle (& Nosegear)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
0 2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
0 2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
0 2.5 oz.. 5-Minute Epoxy
0 Hand or Electric Drill
0 Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64",
9/64", 13/64", 7/32", and 1/4"
0 Sealing Iron
0 Heat Gun
0 Hobby Saw (Xacto Razor Saw)
0 Xacto Knife, #11 Blades
0 Pliers
0 Screw Drivers
0 T-Pins
0 Straightedge
0 Masking Tape (Required for construction)
0 Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
0 T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
0 Waxed Paper
0 Lightweight Balsa Filler
0 1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
0 Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
0 Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit sandpaper. This setup
is all that is required for almost any sanding task. We also keep
some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
4 before covering.
5
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
TAIL FEATHERS
Elev = Elevator
Fuse
= Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge
•LG = Landing Gear
Lt=Left
Ply = Plywood
RI = Right
Stab = Slabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" =Inches
Tri = Triangle Stock
(front)
TYPES OF WOOD
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATORS
D 1. Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work
surface. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the stab and
elevator portion of the plan.
D 2. Cut the stab leading and trailing edges from the
1/4" x 1/2" x 30" stick (FUN1S01). They can be cut
slightly oversize since we will sand them to the correct
length later.
GET READY TO BUILD
D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside
out to make them lie flat.
D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure
out the name of each part by comparing it with the plans
and the parts list at the back of this book. Using a felt lip
pen, write the part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 5
to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before punching out. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are
difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, first cut
around the parts with an Xacto knife. After punching out
the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregu-
larities.
D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin and stab
(slabilizer), and hardware.
D 3. Taper both ends of the 1/8" x 1/4" x 14-7/8"
Basswood Stab Brace (FUN 1 S03) as shown on the plans
and glue it to the front edge of the slab trailing edge with
CA. Use the plans as a reference to center the brace on the
TE.
U 4. Cut the stab center pieces from the 1/4" x 1" x
30" stick (FUN1S04) and pin them in place on the plan.
Make the front "brace" by first cutting it to length, then set
it on the plan and draw lines where the cuts will be.
6
D 5. Pin the leading and trailing edges in place and
glue everything together with thin CA
D 6. Cut the "ribs" from the 1/4" square x 30" stick
(FUN 1 S02) and glue them in place. Remove the stab from
the work surface and apply med/thick CA to all of the
joints. Sand both sides of the stab smooth and replace the
stab on the plan.
D 8. Lay the 1/8" wire elevator joiner (WBNT145)
in place on the elevators and mark its outline using a fine
point fell-tip pen. Be sure to position the joiner wire
directly over where it is shown on the plans which gives
you about 1/32" clearance between the front of the wire
and the trailing edge of the stab.
D 9. Remove the elevators from the plan and draw a
centerline along the leading edge of each. Accurately drill
holes in the elevators for the 1/8" wire joiner. Begin by
drilling a 1/16" or 5/64" pilot hole, then drill the final hole
to a depth of 7/8" with a 9/64" drill bit. (The hole is drilled
slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and to create a
hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire).
D 7. Cut the two elevators from the Tapered Elevator
Strip (FUN1S05) and pin or tape them in place behind the
stab.
D 10. Using an Xacto knife, sharpen the inside of one
end of a 1/8" diameter brass tube and use it to cut grooves
in the leading edge of the elevators to accept the joiner
wire.
D 11. Roughen the joiner wire with coarse sandpaper,
then clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove any
oily residue.
D 12. Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators, then
glue it in using 5-minute epoxy. Work plenty of epoxy into
the holes with a toothpick, then pin the elevators in place
over the plan to insure perfect alignment. Keep the joiner
pushed into the elevators all the way to keep a 1/32" gap
between the front of the joiner and the slab trailing edge.
Keep this assembly pinned down until the glue has com-
pletely cured.
D 13. Remove the stab from the work surface and sand
the tips of the leading and trailing edge flush with the stab
ends. Draw a centerline around the stab and sand the
leading edge and the tips of the slab to a nice rounded cross
section.
U 2. Cut the fin and rudder frame from the 1/4" x
1/2" and the 1/4" x 1" slicks and pin them in place over the
plan. Put a drop of thin CA on each joint but be careful not
to glue the fin to the rudder.
D 3. Cut the dorsal fin from the l/4"xl" slick and tack
glue it to the fin using the plan to correctly position it. The
dorsal fin may have to be removed later. Cut the rudder
gusset from the same stick and glue it in place.
D 14. Remove the elevators from the plan and sand the
leading edge to a V-shape as shown on the plans. Tape the
elevators in place against the slab and sand the elevator
ends to match the stab.
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
D 1. Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work
surface. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and
rudder portion of the plan.
D 4. Cut the "ribs" from the 1/4" square stick and glue
them in place with CA.
D 5. Remove the fin and rudder from the work surface
and apply med/thick CA to all joints. Use a T-bar or
sanding block to sand both sides smooth.
8
I—I 6. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges
of the fin and rudder (this will help to maintain symmetry
when sanding).
1—1 7. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper as
shown on the plans. The trailing edge should end up
approximately 3/32" wide and have a rounded shape. (Do
not sand to a sharp edge). Sand the bottom edge to a
rounded shape. Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" as
shown on the plan. Sand the lop and front edges of the fin
and dorsal fin to a rounded shape but leave the trailing
edge square.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
(Do not glue)
NOTE: On an experimental basis, we have included
"laminated hinges" in this kit, and the following instructions are written for this type of hinge. Our R&D department has thoroughly tested these hinges and found them to
be easy to install and sufficiently strong and durable for
this type of airplane. However, as the kit builder you are
reminded that you are ultimately responsible for the structural integrity of your aircraft. If you are not confident
using this type of hinge, please feel free to substitute your
favorite hinge.
I_I 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE
and transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevators
against the slab TE and transfer the marks over to the slab.
CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care
when cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife,
to avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part
breaks while you are pushing on the knife, the
blade could go into your hand before you
know it! A good precaution is to wear leather
gloves while performing the following steps.
I_I 8. If you arc building a taildragger- check the plans
and mark the location of the tailgear (WBNT128) on the
rudder. Drill a 7/64" hole in the rudder (the hole is drilled
slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and to create a
hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire). Then groove the
rudder leading edge to accept the tail-gear wire using the
sharpened 1/8" brass tube from earlier. (Sec the photo at
step 10 on page 7).
D 2. Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines
which you previously drew, using an Xacto knife. The
recommended procedure for cutting hinge slots with an
Xacto knife is given below.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow
slit in the trailing edge at the hinge location. This first
cut is to establish your cut in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and don't cut
too deep!
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same
line, going slightly deeper each time. As you make
these additional cuts, work on going straight into the
wood. Continue this process while "wiggling" the
knife handle back and forth until the blade has reached
the proper depth for the hinge.
9
D C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and
forth in the slot a few limes to enlarge the slot.
D 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the
rudder and elevators in place on the fin and stab. Do not
glue the hinges until you are instructed to do so later in
this book. Hinge gluing instructions are included later.
D 2. Position one of the 1/8" die-cut balsa rear fuse
sides (FUN1F02) behind the front fuse side you just
assembled. Slide the two
against the work surface. Line the two parts up over the
plan and apply thin CA along the joint. Sand both sides of
the balsa fuse side smooth.
parts
together pressing them
Hard
FUSELAGE
CONSTRUCTION
PREPARE FUSE SIDE
NOTE: The photos show both fuse sides being assembled at the same time to help you identify the parts.
You should assemble one side first as the instructions
explain.
D 1. Position one of the 1/8" die-cut balsa upper
front fuse sides (FUN1F03) above one of the 1/8" die-
cut lower front fuse sides (FUN1F01). Slide the two
parts together pressing them flat against the work surface
and apply thin CA along the joint.
D 3. Lay one of the 1/8" die-cut plywood front fuse
doublers (FUN1F06) on lop of the balsa fuse side. The
doubler should line up with the fuse side at the front 1/2"
of the doubler, the rear 3-1/2" of the doubler and around
the wing saddle area. Study the plan and photo carefully
to make sure you correctly position the doubler. When
you have it in position apply thin CA around all edges of
the doubler, including the inside lightening holes.
D 4. Glue one of the 3/32" balsa die-cut rear fuse
doublers
back edge of the fuselage and the top and bottom of the
fuse side. Use thin CA to glue it in place. (The photo for
this step is at the top of the next page).
10
(FUN1F05)
to the
fuse
side
lining
it
up
with
the
D 5. Go back to step 1 and assemble the other fuselage
side. BE CAREFUL TO ASSEMBLE A RIGHT AND
A LEFT FUSE SIDE. DO NOT MAKE TWO EXACTLY ALIKE!!!
holes. This will automatically center it. Hold it in place
and use a nail to make a mark in the center of each hole.
D 2. Remove the engine mount and drill 9/64" holes at
the bolt locations, then install the 4-40 blind nuts (NUTS001)
on the BACK of Fl. Press the blind nuts in with pliers, or
tap them in with a hammer.
D 3. Temporarily attach the engine mount to the fire-
wall with the 4-40 x 5/8" bolts (SCRW052). Use the bolts
to help pull the blind nuts into place. If you are using a
different mount and more than 1/8" of the bolt protrudes
through the firewall, you should cut off the excess bolt length.
4.40 x 5/8"
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
D 1 Lay the two fuselage sides down flat on the work
surface with the doublers facing up. Trial fit formers Fl,
F2A, F3, F4A/B, F5 and F6 (from FUN1FO8 AND
FUN 1 F09) in place on both fuse sides.
D 6. Glue former F4B (FUN1F09) on former F4A
(FUN1 F08) lining up the edges as shown in the photo.
PREPARE THE FIREWALL (Fl)
D 1. Use a straight edge to draw two crossing lines
from corner to corner on the FRONT face of former Fl
(FUN1 F20). Refer to the fuse side view on the plans to
determine the front of the firewall. Position the engine
mount (MM 19D90) against former Fl so that the crossing
lines arc visible through each of the four engine mount
D 2. Using #64 rubberbands to hold everything to-
gether, assemble the fuse sides along with the formers and
the 1/8" die-cut balsa rear fuse bottom (FUNF04)) and
the 1/8" die-cut plywood front fuse bottom (FUN 1 F09).
11
Make sure everything is seated properly and apply thin CA
to all of the joints starling at former Fl and working your
way to the rear. At the rear of the fuse glue the two sides
together. Do one former/section at a time and hold
everything lightly together while the glue cures. This
structure is self-aligning and can be done right in your lap,
it docs not need to be done on a flat surface. Apply med/
thick CA to all the joints.
D 3. Glue the 1/4" x 2" x 2-5/8" plywood landing
gear
plate
(FLJN1F13)
in
place
with
med/thick
CA or
epoxy. It goes in the forward position behind former F2
for taildraggcrs and in the rear position behind former F3
for tricycle gear. OPTIONAL: If you want to you can cut
an extra landing gear plate and glue one in each position
and so you can switch from one style of landing gear to the
other.
D 6. Cut the 1/8" x 3" x 6-1/2" middle bottom sheet
(FUN1F22) of balsa exactly in half to make two 3-1/4"
pieces and glue them in place on the bottom of the fuse.
Note: The grain should run ACROSS the fuselage. Sand
the edges of the sheeting flush with the fuse sides.
D 4. Cut the 1/8" x 1/8" x 4" balsa spacer (FUN 1F21)
exactly in half to get two 2" pieces. Glue these pieces into
the other landing gear cutout.
D 5. Trim the fuselage sides flush with the spacers you
just glued in.
D 7. Cut pieces of the 1/4" x 30" balsa triangle
(BAL143) to the correct length and glue them in place
around the firewall, along the front fuse bottom, along the
front of F2A and above the landing gear plate. The plans
and the photos help show where ihe triangle goes.
D 8. Glue former F2B (FUN1F09) in place on top of
former F2A. Sand the lop of the former flush with the top
edge of the fuselage.
12
Loading...