Great Planes GPMA0485 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points

P.O. Box 788 Urbana IL61803 [phone]

www greatplanes corn

©Copyright 1998

GB40P03 V10

Introduction

...........................................................................2

Precautions............................................................................3

Preparations..........................................................................3

Required Accessories.......................................................3

Building Supplies .............................................................3

Tools

.............................................................3

Common Abbreviations ....................................................4

Types of Wood . .. .........................................4

Inch/Metric Ruler & Conversions......................................4

Important
Die-Cut

Building

Patterns

Notes

..................................................4

........................................................5

Build the Tail Surfaces..........................................................6

Build

the

Hinge

Rudder

the

Rudder

..............................................................6

.............................................................6

Finish the Rudder.............................................................?

Build the Stabilizer...........................................................8

Build the Elevators ..........................................................8

Hinge the Stab and Elevators...........................................9

Build the Wing .....................................................................10

Assemble the

Ribs

and

Spars

........................................10

Sheet the Wing ............................................................11

Install the Wing Tips .......................................................13

Build

the

Hinge

Ailerons

the Ailerons

...........................................................13

..........................................................14

Build the Fuselage ..............................................................14

Assemble the Fuselage Frame.......................................14

Sheet

the

Fuselage

.......................................................15

Final Assembly....................................................................16

Mount the Engine

................................................................16

Balance the Model Laterally.'..............................................17

Covering...............................................................................17

Preparing the Surface.....................................................17

Covering Technique . ...........................................17

Suggested Covering Sequence......................................17

Final Hookups

and

Checks

................................................18

Install the Hinges ...........................................................18

Install the Fuel Tank........................................................19

Install the Wheels

.......................................................19

Install the Radio System.....................................................19

Apply

the

Decals

.................................................................21

Set the Control Throws.......................................................21

Balance

Your

Model

............................................................22

Preflight................................................................................22

Charge the Batteries....................................................... 22

Balance the Prop............................................................23

Find a Safe place to Fly ................................................23

Ground Check the Model................................................23

Range

Check

Your

Radio

...............................................23

Engine Safety Precautions .............................................23

AMA Safety Code.................................................................24

General..........................................................................^

Radio Control..................................................................24

Flying...................................................................................^

Takeoff

...........................................................................25

Flight ..........................................................................25

Landing

..........................................................................25

Flight Log.............................................................................26

2-View

Drawing

....................................................................28

Your Gee Bee Profile is not a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like
an actual airplane. Because of its performance, the Gee
Bee Profile, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the internet at: http //www modelaircraft.org

If you have been looking for a way to put the FUN back into
your Sunday flying, you have just found it The Gee Bee
Profile is a nimble little profile hot-dogger that assembles in
only a few hours and is easy on the budget It does not

require any special building or flying skill - just a few hand
tools and a little tail-dragger time. With its oversized control
surfaces it turns, loops and rolls in the blink of an eye, but
the thick, high lift airfoil and light wing loading allow the
plane to slow way down for gentle spot landings If
equipped with an engine like the OS 40 LA it's possible to
be airborne in a matter of feet, zip through three rolls, loop
on its own axis, then go into the "hover" mode while waiting
for your buddies to get off the ground What more can we
say? The Gee Bee Profile maximizes fun for minimal cost
and time!

2

1 You must assemble the model according to the
instructions Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so

may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos In those
instances the plans and written instructions should be
considered as correct.

2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first class condition,
and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc ) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air

5 You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and you must
make certain that the model has remained structurally
sound Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions but ultimately the
quality of your finished model depends on how you build
it, therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!

YOU CAN CONTACT US...

If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this

airplane, please call us at [phone]. You can also

check our web site at www.greatplanes.com for the
latest Gee Bee updates, or e-mail your questions to
[e-mail]. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please reference the part numbers

and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of
the carton) and have them ready when calling.

Terns in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part

numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your ordering convenience GPM is the Great
Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite brand, and HCA is the
Hobbico" brand.

D 4 Channel radio with 5 servos and a Y-harness
D 35-46 2-stroke or 40 - 52 4-stroke engine
D 6oz Fuel tank (GPMQ4102)
D (2) 2-1/2" Wheels (GPMQ4223)
D 1 "Tail wheel (GPMQ4241)
D (2) 3/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4302)
D 12" Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
D (2) Rolls covering film
D 1/4" Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)

These are the building supplies that are required We

recommend Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy glue

D 1 oz ThinCA(GPMR6002)
D 1 oz Medium CA (GPMR6008)
D 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
D Balsa filler (HCAR3401)
D Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
D Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
D IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

D Sanding block and sandpaper (coarse, medium, tine)
D Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
D #11 blades (HCAR0311)
D Single edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
D Razor Saw
D Razor Plane
D Electric drill
D Drill bits - 1/16", 5/64", 7/64", 1/8",

3/32",3/16"(HCAR0699)
D Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
D Pliers with wire cutter
D Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
D Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
D T-Pins (HCAR5150)
D Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
D Cutting Mat (HCAR0456)
D Builders Triangle (HCAR0480)

3

On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with 80, 150 and

220-grit sandpaper This setup is all that is required
for almost any sanding task We also keep some
320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering

Elev = Elevator Fuse = Fuselage

LE = Leading Edge (front) LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear) " = Inches

Balsa Basswood Plywood

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops They are available in five sizes - 5-1/2"
(GPMR6169) for those tight, hard-to-reach spots;

11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding, and
22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges The
Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper comes in
2" x 12' rolls of 80-gnt (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183),

180-grit (GPMR6184) and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an
assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short
bar sander The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it's time

for replacement

This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
task Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or
hardwood blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to
reach spots.

1 Unroll the plan sheet, then re-roll the plan inside-out to
make it lie flat.

2. Sort through the sticks and sheets grouping them by
size Masking tape can be used to bundle matching sheets
and sticks Using a felt tip or ball point pen lightly write the
part name or size on each piece or bundle Refer to the
parts list and plans for sizes and quantities Use the die-cut
patterns shown on page 5 to identify the die cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet Save all
scraps If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby

knife or lightly sand the back of the sheet After removing
the die cut parts use your sanding block to lightly sand the
edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities

3 Work on a flat surface Cover the plan with waxed paper
or Great Planes Plan Protector material to prevent glue
from sticking to it.

4

4. When instructed to test fit parts, this means DON'T USE
GLUE until you are satisfied that everything fits properly -
THEN glue the parts together if instructed to do so

5. Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces
together, CA or epoxy may be used When a specific type
of glue is required, the instructions will state the type of
glue that is highly recommended. When 30-mmute epoxy

is specified, it is highly recommended that you use only
30-minute (or slower) epoxy because you will need either
the working time and/or the additional strength

6 The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single edge

razor blade or razor saw Position the stick over the plan,

mark its size, then cut the part on a piece of scrap lumber
A modeling miter box works well for cutting square corners
and 45° gussets.

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

NE004 2 REQ. NE005 5 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

GB40F01

GB40W01

FIN

LE

RUDDER OUTER FRAME

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

LE DOUBLER

NOSE

F & R GUIDE PLATES

1/8" x 6-5/8" x 31-3/4" PLY

CANOPY FRAME

2

REQ.

1/8" x 3" x 18" BALSA

TIP

2

RIB

REQ.

STABILIZER TIPS

ELEVATOR TIPS

GB40W02

AFT TIP BLOCKS

1/8" x 3" x 24" BALSA

5

TIP BRACES

2

REQ

AlLERON TIPS

D 1. Glue together the pairs of die-cut 1/8" balsa rudder
TE'S to make 1/4" thick parts.

D 5. From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue the
diagonal braces to the rudder frame.

D 6. Remove the rudder from your building board. Inspect
all the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don't look
strong. Sand the joints flush and the entire top and bottom
surface of the rudder flat and even. Be careful that you

don't sand any area too thin.

D 2. With the waxed paper or Plan Protector over the plan,
pin the rudder TE'S in position over the plan. Cut the
rudder outer frame from 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa sticks.
Glue the outer frame and rudder frame together and pin it
in position over the plan. Use the plan or a straightedge as
a guide to make sure the rudder LE is straight as you glue
it in position.

D 3. From the 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
the two gussets and the control horn base to the
rudder frame.

D 1. Place the rudder over the plan and lightly mark the
hinge locations on the LE.

D 2. Mark the centerline on the rudder's LE using the

following centerline method.

HOW TO MARK A CENTERLINE

It's important that the hinges are centered and parallel to
the part you are hinging. The best way to start is by
accurately marking the hinge centerline.

D 4. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue

the rudder ribs to the rudder frame.

A. Lay the rudder and a ballpoint pen on a flat surface.
Mark a "test line" on the LE of the rudder.

B. Flip the rudder over and mark another line in the same
location as the first. If you see only one line, then it is on
center. Proceed and mark the centerline at each hinge

location. If you see two lines, use playing cards or business
cards to adjust the height of the pen until you can mark
the centerline.

6

CUT HINGE SLOT

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

AND #11 BLADE

D 3. Cut the hinge slots in the rudder using a #11 blade.
Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge
location to accurately establish the hinge slot. Make three
or four more cuts, going a little deeper each time. As you
cut, slide the knife from side to side until the slot has
reached the proper depth and width for the hinge.

D 4. Cut the 3/4" x 1" hinges for the rudder from the
supplied 2" x 9" hinge material. Use the hinge drawing on
the plan as a guide. Test fit the hinges into the rudder. Do

not glue the hinges at this time.

HOW TO CUT A GROOVE

A. Use a hobby knife to sharpen the inside of a piece of

1/8" brass tube. Roll the tube as you carve the end.

B. Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading
edge. You'll have to make several passes to make the
recess deep enough for the tailgear bearing.

D 5. Position the rudder over the plan and align the
tailgear assembly over the rudder. Mark the tailgear "arm"
location on the LE of the rudder. Drill a 7/64" hole, 3/4"

deep at the mark.

D 6. Cut a groove from the above hole to the bottom of the
rudder that will allow the nylon tailgear bearing to fit flush

with the LE of the rudder (see the following expert tip). Do

not glue the tailgear bearing in position at this time.

D 1. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows and shape the LE
of the rudder to a "V" shape as shown on the plan.

HOW TO BEVEL THE LEADING EDGE

A. Place the leading edge of the rudder on your work
surface and use your ballpoint pen to mark a "bevel to" line
on both sides about 1/8" high.

B. Using the bevel to lines and the centerline as a guide,
make the "V" on the leading edge of the rudder with a razor
plane or your bar sander.

D 2. Draw a centerline on the TE and tip of the rudder.
Sand a radius on the edges as shown on the plan using the
centerline as a guide to keep the radius symmetrical.

D 1. Pin the stabilizer and the elevator portion of the plan
to your building board. Cover this portion with waxed paper
or Plan Protector.

stab LE joiner, stab center and stab tips together. Use the
plan or a straightedge as a guide to make sure the stab TE
is straight as you glue it in position.

D 5. From a 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue the
two gussets to the stab frame.

D 6. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
the stab ribs to the stab frame.

D 2. Glue the pairs of die-cut 1/8" balsa stabilizer tips
together to make 1/4" thick parts.

D 3. Make the stabilizer LE joiner and stabilizer center

from a 1/4" x 3" x 7-1/2" balsa sheet. Use the plan for the
correct outline of the parts.

D 7. From a 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue the
diagonal braces to the stab frame.

D 8. Remove the stab from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don't look
strong. Sand the joints flush and the entire top and bottom
surface of the stab flat and even. Be careful that you don't
sand any area too thin.

D 4. Pin the stab LE joiner, stab center and stab tips in
position over the plan. Cut the stab outer frame from
1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa sticks. Glue the stab outer frame,

D 1. Pin the elevator plan to your building board and cover
it with waxed paper or Plan Protector.

D 2. Glue the pairs of die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator tips

together to make 1/4" thick parts.

8

D 3. Pin the elevator tips in position over the plan. Cut the

elevator outer frame from 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa sticks.

Glue the elevator outer frame and tips together. Make sure
each elevator LE is straight as you glue it in position. Glue

the elevator joiner wire doublers to the elevator LE'S.

D 4. From a 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue the
two gussets to the elevator frame and tips.

D 5. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
the elevator ribs to the elevator frame.

D 6. Remove the elevators from your building board.

Inspect all the glue joints and add CA to any joints that
don't look strong. Sand the joints flush and the entire top
and bottom surface of the stab flat and even. Be careful
that you don't sand any area too thin.

D 4. Position the stab and elevators over the plan and
mark the location of the elevator joiner on the elevators.

D 5. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole into the elevator LE, on the
centerline, at the torque rod marks. As you drill the holes,
keep the drill aligned with the top and bottom surfaces of
the elevator. Enlarge the holes with a 1/8" drill bit.

D 6. Cut a 1/8" groove in the leading edge of both
elevators to recess the joiner wire. Do not glue the joiner
wire in position at this time.

D 7. Remove the elevators from the stab. Mark the "bevel
to" lines and sand the LE of the elevators to a "V" as shown
on the plan.

D 1. Place the stab and elevator over their locations on the
plan and lightly mark the hinge locations on the TE of the
stab and LE of the elevator.

D 2. Make six 3/4" x 1" elevator hinges from the remaining

2" x 9" hinge material.

D 3. Mark the centerline of the hinges on the stab's TE and

elevator's LE. Cut the hinge slots and without using glue,

test fit the elevator on the stab.

D 8. Draw a centerline on the LE of the stab and the TE of
the elevators. Sand a radius on the LE of the stab and the
TE of the elevators, referring to the cross-section on the
plans as a guide.

This completes the stab and elevators. Put them aside for
now and let's move on to Building the Wing.

9