Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.
If this is your first sport model, we recommend that you get
help from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler with
your first flights. You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your
model before you’re ready to take the controls for yourself.
For information on flying clubs in your area, you can contact
the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which
has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across the country.
Contact AMA at the address or toll-free phone number
below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the internet at: modelaircraft.org
INTRODUCTION
The Dazzler 40 is very stable and forgiving, allowing even
intermediate skill level pilots to enjoy it.
This is not a beginner’s airplane! While the Dazzler 40 is
easy to build and flies great, we must discourage you from
selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It lacks the
self-recovery characteristics of good basic trainers such as
the Great Planes PT™ Series. On the other hand, if you
have already learned the basics of R/C flying, and you are
able to safely handle a .40-size taildragger, the Dazzler 40
is an excellent choice to try your skills at flying an aerobatic
sport airplane.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must assemble the model according to the
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in
an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the
instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the plans and written instructions should be
considered as correct.
instructions.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THIS
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION
Your Dazzler 40 is not a toy, but a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full size airplane.
Because of its aerobatic performance, the Dazzler 40, if not
2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.
2
5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure all equipment is operating, and you must
make certain the model has remained structurally sound.
Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and
replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of
your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety of your completed
model arirplane.
❏Fuel tank 6 oz. (SULQ1426)
❏ Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 2-1/2" Main wheels (DUBQ0875)
❏ 1" Tailwheel (GPMQ4241)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote
❏ 1/4" Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
❏ (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts (GPMQ3324)
❏ Engine Mount .20 to .48 (GPMG1041)
❏ (4) 4-40 x 1" Machine Screws (GPMQ3016)
❏ 24" Flex Cable Pushrod (GPMQ3700)
®
(2 to 3 rolls)
Building Supplies and Tools
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!
If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970. If you are
calling for replacement parts, please reference the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on
the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.
We can also be reached by E-Mail at:
productsupport@greatplanes.com
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
Engine Selection
There are several engines that will work well in your
Dazzler 40. We recommend a hot 2-stroke such as an
O.S.® .40FX or SuperTigre™ G45. For unsurpassed
power and realistic sound, an O.S. FS-52 Surpass
4-stroke can’t be beat. The engine you select will
determine how you build the firewall section, so it is
important that you have the engine close at hand while
building.
™
These are the building tools that are required. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
❏ 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Hand or electric drill
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobby saw
❏ Hobby knife, #11 Blades (HCAR0311)
❏ Razor plane (Master Airscrew®)
❏ Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat tip)
❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ 60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
❏ Straightedge with scale
❏ Masking tape (GPMR1010)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
❏ Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander (or similar)
❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Lightweight balsa filler such as Hobbico® HobbyLite™
(Hobbico HCAR3400)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap and Drill (GPMR8105)
❏ Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (70%)
❏ Ballpoint pen
❏ 90° Building square (HCAR0480)
❏ Canopy glue
❏ Drill bits: 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"
PREPARATIONS
Required Accessories
Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the Great
Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite® brand, and HCA is the
Hobbico® brand.
❏ Four-channel radio with five servos
❏ Engine – See Engine Selection above
❏ Propeller (Top Flite® Power Point™); Refer to your
engine’s instructions for proper size
Optional Supplies and Tools
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts
(DTXR1150)
❏ 4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
3
On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with 80, 150 and
220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required
for almost any sanding task. We also keep some
320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes – 5-1/2"
(GPMR6169) for those tight, hard-to-reach spots; 11"
(GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding; and 22"
(GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176) for
long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper comes in 2" x 12'
rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183), 180grit (GPMR6184) and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an
assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short
bar sander. The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it’s time
for replacement.
Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or hardwood
blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to reach spots.
Common Abbreviations
Elev = Elevator Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front) LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear) " = Inches
Building Notes
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a
length. For example #6 x 3/4"
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"
When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue and then slightly modify or sand
the part as necessary for the best fit.
Types of Wood
Balsa Basswood Plywood
Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together,
CA or epoxy may be used. When a specific type of glue is
required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is
highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,
it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
slower) epoxy because you will need either the working
time or the additional strength.
Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to “glue the top main
spar” or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is understood that
the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the “top”
even if the model is being worked on upside down (i.e. the
“top” main spar is always the “top” main spar, even when
the wing is being built upside down).
❏1. Unroll the plan sheet. Reroll the plan sheet inside out
to make it lie flat. Place wax paper or Great Planes Plan
Protector over the area of the plan you are working on to
prevent glue from sticking to the plan. Use tape or tacks to
hold the plan and protector securely in place.
❏2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine
the name of each part by comparing it with the plan and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown below to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do not force
them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your Easy-Touch
Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities.
❏3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Resealable food storage bags
are handy to store parts as you sort, identify and separate
them into subassemblies.
Metric Conversions
1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm
5
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
Build the Stabilizer
(Refer to this photo for the following 3 steps.)
❏ 1. After covering the plan with wax paper, pin the shaped
1/4" balsa stab center section over its location on the plan.
Use 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa to build the outer framework of
the stabilizer and both elevators, gluing each piece in
position as you proceed.
❏
6. Remove the elevators. Drill a 1/8" hole (1" deep)
the center of each elevator’s leading edge at the locations
you marked in step #4. Cut a groove from the hole you
drilled to the root end of each elevator. The groove will allow
the joiner wire to fit flush with the elevator’s leading edge.
Use the expert tip shown below to assist you in cutting
the groove.
HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A TORQUE ROD
through
❏ 2. Cut and install four corner gussets and two elevator
joiner wire gussets from 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa.
❏ 3. Cut and install the 1/4" x 1/4" and 1/4" x 3/16" internal
bracing as shown on the plan.
❏ 4. Remove the stabilizer and elevators from the plan and
attach them with masking tape, making sure the outer
edges are flush. Position the 1/8" elevator joiner wire over
the elevators as shown on the plan. Mark the location of the
joiner wire.
A. Use a hobby knife to sharpen the inside of a piece of
1/8" brass tube. Roll the tube as you carve the end.
B. Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading
edge. You’ll have to make several passes to make the
recess deep enough for the torque rod.
❏ 5. While the parts are taped together, round off all
outside edges around the perimeter of the assembly.
❏ 7. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of both
elevators. Refer to the cross section on the plan, then sand
the elevator leading edges to a “V” shape.
6
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