Great Planes GPMA0450 User Manual

Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPOR TANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
PAT6P03 for GPMA0450 V1.0 Printed in USA Entire Contents © Copyright 2004
Champaign, IL
(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
Fax:(217) 398-7721
airsupport@greatplanes.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 55 in [1,395mm] Wing Area: 742 sq in [47.9dm
2
]
Weight: 8-8.5 lb [3630-3860g] Wing Loading: 25-27 oz/sq ft [76-82g/dm
2
]
Length: 59.5 in [1150mm] Radio: 6-Channel with 6 standard ser vos Engine: .61-.91 cu. in. [10-15cc] two-stroke
.61-.91 cu. in. [10-15cc] four-stroke
WARRANTY
MADE IN
USA
INTRODUCTION................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................3
Radio Equipment.........................................................3
Flaps............................................................................3
Retracts........................................................................4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................4
Hardware and Accessories ..........................................4
Adhesives and Building Supplies.................................4
Optional Supplies and Tools ........................................4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................5
TYPES OF WOOD.............................................................6
GET READY TO BUILD.....................................................6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS .........................................................6
BUILD THE T AIL SURF A CES............................................8
Build the Stabilizer.......................................................8
Build the Fin .................................................................8
Sheet the Fin and Stabilizer ........................................8
Build the Rudder and Elevators .................................10
Finish the Tail Surfaces..............................................11
BUILD THE WING............................................................11
Build the Wing Panels................................................11
Sheet the Wing Panel Top .........................................14
Install the Landing Gear Rails ...................................16
Begin Shaping the Wing............................................16
Install the Retracts.....................................................17
Install the Fixed Gear.................................................18
Join the Wing Panels.................................................19
Sheet the Bottom of the Wing....................................20
Install the Ailerons .....................................................21
Finish Shaping the Wing............................................21
BUILD THE FUSELAGE..................................................21
Assemble the Fuse Formers and Sides ....................21
Install the Firewall......................................................23
Mount the Wing..........................................................25
Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage.............................26
Build the Turtle Deck..................................................27
Install the Radio Hatch ..............................................29
Mount the Stabilizer to the Fuse................................30
Mount the Fin to the Fuse .........................................30
Install the Fuel Tank...................................................31
Mount the Engine.......................................................32
Install the Servos and Pushrods ................................33
Assemble the Instrument Panel (Optional) ................35
Assemble the Cowl....................................................35
Install the ABS Plastic Details ...................................36
INST ALL THE HARDW ARE.............................................37
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY............................37
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING......................37
FINAL SERVO & RECEIVER INSTALLATION ...............37
COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKO TE®FILM............38
P AINT THE MODEL.........................................................38
Apply the Decals ........................................................39
Install the Canopy......................................................39
Attach the Control Surfaces.......................................39
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................40
Check the Control Directions.....................................40
Set the Control Throws..............................................40
Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................41
PREFLIGHT.....................................................................41
Identify Your Model.....................................................41
Charge the Batteries ..................................................41
Balance Propellers.....................................................42
Ground Check............................................................42
Range Check.............................................................42
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.................................42
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPT)..................................43
General......................................................................43
Radio Control.............................................................43
CHECKLIST.....................................................................43
FLYING.............................................................................44
Takeoff .......................................................................44
Flight..........................................................................44
Landing......................................................................44
APPENDIX: FLIGHT TRIMMING.....................................45
FLIGHT TRIMMING CHART............................................46
FLIGHT LOG....................................................................47
2-VIEW DRAWING............................................Back Cover
The larger, faster, easier-to-build Patriot XL expands on the incredible popularity and performance of the original Great Planes Patriot kit. Designed around .60-.90 size engines, whether 2-stroke or 4, the Patriot XL provides amazing performance in an easy-to-build sport scale kit. Add the optional retracts and flaps to the thin, Selig-airfoil wing, and your Patriot XL goes from quick to blistering fast AND is easy to settle in for carrier-like landings.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Great Planes Patriot XL, visit the Great Planes web site listed below. Open the “Airplanes” link, and then select the Great Planes Patriot XL. If there is new technical information or changes to this model, a “tech notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2
sites to help you get started the right way .There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the countr y.Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
1. Your Great Planes Patriot XL should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Great Planes Patriot XL, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .
6. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights.If you’ re not a member of a club , your local hob by shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
Remember:T ake your time and f ollo w the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please contact Great Planes at the address or telephone number below. If requesting replacement parts, please provide the full kit name (Great Planes Patriot XL) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail:
productsupport@greatplanes.com
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Patriot XL that may require planning or decision making before starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
You must use a minimum of a 6-channel radio with two Y-harnesses, one for the ailerons and one for the elevators. Due to the fact that the two elevator servos move in opposition, you will have to have either a computer radio, or a servo reverser that will allow you to reverse one of the servos. If using a Futaba®radio, the SR10 servo reverser (FUTM4150) is recommended. One standard Y-harness will also be required for the two aileron servos (HCAM2500).
The Patriot XL may be b uilt either with or without flaps.Flaps are not necessary for an enjoyable flying experience. Landing with flaps is a blast (and can be safer) because the
Flaps
Radio Equipment
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full­scale aircraft and avoid flying near or o ver groups of people .
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www
.modelaircraft.org
3
model is able to land at reduced speeds. Full instr uctions are included for building the Patriot XL with flaps, but a little extra craftsmanship and skill (not to mention a little extra time) will be required.
These additional items are required to build the Patriot XL with flaps:
(2) Standard ser vos(1) Y-harness (HCAM2701 Futaba
®
)
(1) 6" [150mm] Ser vo extension for flaps (HCAM2000
for Futaba)
The Patriot XL may be built with either fixed or retractable landing gear.Fixed landing gear wires are included with this kit, so the only additional items required to build the Patriot XL with fixed gear is (2) 2-1/2" [65mm] wheels, and one 2­1/4" [58mm] wheel. If installing retracts, the kit may be built to accommodate Robart #605 HD retracts with 3/6" [4.8mm] wire struts (ROBQ0005).Note: If installing any other system, the landing gear rail spacing and/or position may require modification to accommodate the gear. Whichever retract system is installed, an additional servo will be required to operate the air control valve.
These items are required if installing Robart retractable landing gear:
Robart #605HD 90-degree retracts for main gear (3/16"
[4.8mm] wire struts) (ROBQ0005)
Robar t #607 90-Degree retract for the nose gear (3/16"
[4.8mm] wire strut) (ROBQ1807)
Robar t #188 Air control kit (ROBQ2388)3/16" x 2" [4.8 x 51mm] slip-on axles (GPMQ4278)(2) Robar t #190 Quick connectors (ROBQ2395, pair)(2) 2-1/2" [65mm] Main wheels (GPMQ4223)(1) 2-1/4" [57mm] Nose wheel (GPMQ4222)Robar t #164G Hand Pump with Gauge (ROBQ2363)Standard ser vo to operate air control valve
In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware and
accessories required to finish the Great Planes Patriot XL. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Top Flite
®
Super MonoKote®covering: Aluminum (TOPQ0205, 2 rolls) Royal Blue (TOPQ0221, 1 roll White (TOPQ0204, 1 roll) Missile Red (TOPQ0201, 1 roll)
Fuelproof paint - See Painting (page 34)12 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4105)
3' Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)Nylon reinforced packing tape2-1/4" [57mm] Tr u-Turn Ultimate Spinner (TRUQ2282)
In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Great Planes Patriot XL.
We recommend
Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.
2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)Canopy Glue (PAAR3300)Microballoons (TOPR1090)Hobby knife handle (HCAR0105)#11 Blades (HCAR0311), 100 Qty.X-ACTO
®
Razor Saw (XACR2531)
Small T -pins (HCAR5100)Medium T -pins (HCAR5150)Masking tape (TOPR8018)Bondo
®
or Squadron white (or green) putty
1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105, dr ill bit included)Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)Hand or electr ic power drillDrill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 7/64"
[2.8mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 9/64" [3.6mm], 5/32" [4mm], 11/64" [4.4mm], 3/16" [4.8mm], 13/64" [5.2mm], 7/32" [5.6mm], 15/64 [6mm], 1/4" [6.4mm], 17/64" [6.7mm], 9/32" [7.1mm]
Heat Shr ink Tubing (GPMM1070)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Great Planes Patriot XL.
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700
Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)Dead Center
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
AccuThrow
Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
Precision Hinge Mar king Tool (GPMR4005)Slot Machine
hinge slotting tool (110V, GPMR4010)
Groove Tube
(GPMR8140)
Plan Protector (GPMR6167)CA Clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)Heat gun (TOPR2000)Tack Cloth (TOPR2185)Hot Sock
(TOPR2175)
Razor plane (MASR1510)Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)36" Non-slip straightedge (HCAR0475)Denatured or isopropyl alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)Dremel
®
Moto-Tool®or similar w/sanding drum, cutting
burr and cut-off wheel
Ser vo horn dr ill (HCAR0698)Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055, Qty. 50)
Optional Supplies and Tools
Adhesives and Building Supplies
Hardware and Accessories
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Retracts
4
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)CG Machine
(GPMR2400)
2 oz.[57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035) or 4 oz.[113g]
aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive (MMMR1900)Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)Metal Template Set (30/60/90/45° triangles, HCAR0500)Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts
(HCAR0667)
Robar t Super Stand II (ROBP1402)24"x36" [460x910mm] Builder’s Cutting Mat (HCAR0456)16"x48" [410x1220mm] building board (GPMR6950)Hobbico Duster
compressed air (HCAR5500)
Z-bend pliers (HCAR2000)1 oz. Pro CA- (Thick, GPMR6014)6-Minute Pro
Epoxy (GPMR6045)
EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity f or building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed Sandpaper .While building the Patriot XL, two 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sanders and two 11" [280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper were used.
Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) 11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170) 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172) 33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174) 44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176) 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
12' roll Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180) 150-grit (GPMR6183) 180-grit (GPMR6184) 220-grit (GPMR6185) Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.
There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length.
For example #6 x 3/4"
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch, and a length. SHCS is just an abbreviation for
“socket head cap screw”and that is a machine screw with a socket head.
For example 4-40 x 3/4".
This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long
with forty threads per inch.
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fit the part as necessar y for the best fit.
Whenever the term
glue
is written you should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the instructions will make a recommendation.
Whenever just
epoxy
is specified you may use
either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
Photos
and
sketches
are placed before the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.
Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete name stamped on them, so refer to the die drawings f or identification. When it’s time to remove the parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do not force them out. Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the sheet and then lightly sand the edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger scraps of wood.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
5
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Ver tical Fin
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plan inside out to
make them lie flat.
2.Remove all parts from the box.As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plan and the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later.Use the die-cut patterns to identify the die-cut parts and mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your bar sander to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer) and hardware.
GET READY TO BUILD
TYPES OF WOOD
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
6
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS
7
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS
Note: While the placement of the outer framing of any stick-
built part is important, the exact placement of the internal ribs is not so critical. It is more impor tant to have strong, secure glue joints than to have the ribs placed in the exact location.
Note: We have removed the parts from the plan for clarity in the some of the photos.
1. Position the fuse plan so the stab plan is over your flat
building board. Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.You may cut the stabilizer drawing from the fuse plan along the dashed lines if you wish.
2. Build the stabilizer framework using the balsa sticks
indicated on the plan.Start with the 3/16" x 3/4" x 24" [4.8 x 19 x 610mm] outer framework, then the 3/16" x 1/2" x 24" [4.8 x 13 x 610mm] and 3/16" x 1/4" x 24" [4.8 x 6 x 609mm] inner
framework. Finish with 3/16" x 1" x 18" [4.8 x 25 x 460mm] stab tips. As you proceed, use T-pins to hold the sticks to the
plan and use thin CA to glue the parts together. Note: Sa v e any leftover sticks as they will be used for building the fin.
3. Remove the stab from the plan. Inspect all glue joints
and re-glue as necessary. Use a bar sander and 220-grit
sandpaper to sand both sides of the stab framework flat.Be careful while sanding so that you do not over-thin any one particular area of the stab or gouge the stab framework by snagging sandpaper on it.
1. Place the fin plan on the building surface and cover
with wax paper or plan protector.
2. Using the leftover 3/16" [4.8mm] balsa sticks from the
stab assembly, build the fin in the same manner as the stab.
3. Remove the fin from the plan. Add thin CA to any joints
needing more glue. Sand flat using 220-grit sandpaper and a bar sander.
❏ ❏1. Use the method described in the Expert Tip that
follows or your favorite method to glue together three 1/16" x 3" x 36" [1.6 x 95 x 760mm] balsa sheets to make one 1/16" x 9" x 36" [1.6 x 230 x 760mm] stab/fin skin.Make another skin the same way.
Sheet the Fin and Stabilizer
Build the Fin
Build the Stabilizer
BUILD THE T AIL SURF ACES
8
HOW TO JOIN SHEETING
Note: Aliphatic resin can be used to join the sheeting, but
takes longer than CA to dry. If you choose to join using aliphatic resin, be sure to allow the sheeting to sit a few hours for the glue to dry. Aliphatic resin sands easier than CA and is easier to cut.
A. Use a straightedge as a guide to trim one edge of both sheets.
B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the two sheets together joining the trimmed edges.
C. T urn the sheet ov er and place weights on top of the sheet to hold it. Apply thin CA sparingly to the seam, quickly wiping away excess CA with a paper towel as you proceed.
D. Turn the sheet over and remove the masking tape.Apply thin CA to the seam the same way you did for the other side and use a fresh paper towel to wipe away excess CA.
E. Sand the sheeting flat and smooth with your bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper.
❏ ❏2.Working over your flat building surface , use medium
CA to glue one side of the stab to one of the skins as shown in the photo. Sheet the ends of the stab tips with a small corner cut from the area shown.
❏ ❏3. Cut the excess sheeting from the stab. Save the
remainder for the fin.
❏ ❏4. Sheet the other side of the stab the same way.
Sheet both sides of the fin with the leftover sheeting. Note: Give the CA ample time to harden before lifting the
assembly off the building board. It is essential to get a secure and uniform bond between the stab sheets and the stab framework, especially in the center.
9
1.Cut the rudder to the length shown on the plan from the
shaped 25" [635mm] balsa rudder/elevator stick.(Note: The elevators are also cut from this stick, so be careful with the measurements.) Remember, measure twice, cut once!
2. Use a Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool or
measure and mark a centerline on the LE of the rudder and the TE of the fin.
3. Mark the hinge locations where shown on the plan.
4. Cut nine 3/4" x 1" [20 x 25mm] hinges for the elevators
and rudder from the supplied 2" x 9" [51 x 230mm] CA hinge strip, and then snip off the corners so they go in easier.
5. Using the centerlines as a guide, cut the hinge slots
where shown on the plan with a Great Planes Slot Machine,
then proceed to step 7. If you do not have a Slot Machine, or cannot access one of the hinge locations with it, you will need to follow the procedure for cutting hinge slots with a hobby knife and #11 blades.
HOW TO CUT HINGE SLOTS WITH A HOBBY KNIFE
When using a hobby knife to cut hinge slots , one of the most common mistakes made by modelers is making the slots too tight. This restr icts the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. Another mistake made when installing hinges is not using enough glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.This will result in hinges that are only
tack glued
.Follow
these steps to cut hinge slots with a hobby knife:
A. Using the centerline as a guide, cut one of the hinge slots in the fin or rudder where shown on the plan with a #11 blade.Begin by cutting a shallow slit.Make three or four cuts along the same line, going slightly deeper each time.As you proceed, be certain to go straight into the wood and move the knife from side-to-side until the blade has reached the correct depth for the hinge.
B. T est fit a hinge into the slot.If the hinge does not slide into the slot easily, remove the hinge and reinsert the knife, working the blade back and forth a few times to provide more clearance (it’s the back edge of the blade that does the widening).
C. Cut the rest of the hinge slots the same way.
6.Tempor arily join the elev ators to the stab with the hinges,
adjusting any hinge slots if necessary so they all align.Do not glue in the hinges until you are instructed to do so.
Notes about CA hinges: This kit is supplied with CA
hinge material consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and polyester specifically made for hinging model airplanes. When properly installed, this type of CA hinge provides the best combination of strength, durability, and easy installation. It is essential to install them correctly. Follow the hinging instructions in this manual for the best result. The techniques shown have been developed to ensure thorough and secure gluing.
Build the Rudder and Elevators
10
1" 1"
3/4"
7. Sand the stab and fin tips to match the taper of the
elevators and rudder.
1. Shape the leading edge of the elevators and rudders to
a “V” as shown on the plans.
2. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to round the
tail surfaces as shown on the plan.
Note: Wing construction is engineered to provide a straight­and-true wing panel with minimum effort. To do so, the building sequence and pieces are different from what you may be accustomed to. Be sure to read all steps carefully and pay particular attention to instructions of when and where to apply adhesives.
Note: The wings are built upright over the plan. You may build both wing panels at once following the instructions if you have space to do so.
❏ ❏1. Lay the right wing panel plan on a flat building
board and cover with wax paper or plan protector.
❏ ❏2. Cut the bottom main wing spar to the length
shown on the plan from a 1/8" x 1/2" x 36" [3 x 13 x 910mm] basswood stick.Pin the spar to the plan.
❏ ❏3. Cut the bottom aft wing spar from the leftover
1/8" x 1/2" [3 x 13mm] basswood stick.
❏ ❏4. Lay out the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa wing ribs
R2 through R10 in the general area of their location on the plan. Rib R4 will be installed in the last step and can be set aside for now.
❏ ❏5. Place the die-
cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa main wing web on the spar along the leading edge.
❏ ❏6. Use the 1/2" [13mm] holes to align the die-cut 1/8"
[3mm] plywood rib doublers R3A with ribs R3. Glue in place with medium CA. Make a right and a left. Note: There is a slight offset in the slots on the ribs as compared to the doubler.This is normal.
Build the Wing Panels
BUILD THE WING
Finish the Tail Surfaces
11
Main Web
L.E.
Spar
❏ ❏7. Use the 1/2" [13mm] holes to align the die-cut 1/8"
[3mm] plywood rib doublers R5A with ribs R5. Glue in place with medium CA. There will be an offset built in just like in the previous step.
❏ ❏8. Test fit ribs R2 through R10 on the main wing spar
and web.DO NOT install R4 until instructed to do so.
❏ ❏9.Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa TE Jig. Insert the
wing ribs into the slots on the TE jig and align with the plan.
❏ ❏10.Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa LE Jig. Insert the
wing ribs into the slots on the LE jig and align with the plan.
❏ ❏11.Once you've finished test fitting and are happy with
the fit, begin gluing using thin CA. Weigh down the TE to keep it flat on the work bench. Starting at R2, glue the ribs first to the TE and then to the LE.Ensure each rib is pressed all the way down into the TE slots and the LE is pressed all the way down onto each rib.After the LE jig and TE jig have been glued, glue the center spar and center web into place using thin CA.
❏ ❏12. Test fit R1, the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
forward dowel support (FDS) and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft dowel support (ADS).
❏ ❏13. Make sure the bottom aft wing spar is pressed all
the way up into the slot in R1 and glue in place.
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❏ ❏14. Use a straightedge to make sure R1 is straight
from the LE to the TE and glue in place with thin CA. Note: R1 will have a few degrees of tilt.This is normal.
❏ ❏15. Inser t the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center web
(CW) into the slot in R1 until the notches line up with the
ribs.Twist into position.
❏ ❏16. Install the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood spar joiner
(SJ) without tabs into the area marked on the plan. Glue in
place using thin CA.
❏ ❏17.Test fit the 1/8" [3.2mm] die-cut ply spar joiner (SJ)
with tabs. Glue in place with medium CA.
❏ ❏18.Test fit the top main wing spar and the top aft wing
spar.Glue in place with medium CA.
❏ ❏19. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply servo tray and
servo tray brace.Align the servo tra y with the plan and glue
in place using thin CA. Be sure the ser vo tray is even with the rib on the bottom of the wing. Note: If building flaps install the aileron servo tray the same way.
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❏ ❏ ❏ ❏1.Glue two 3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 75 x 910mm] balsa
sheets together to make one 3/32" x 6" x 36" [2.4 x 75 x 910mm] LE sheet.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 2.Align the edge of the LE sheeting with the center
of the top wing spar. Trim off the excess sheeting, leaving about 1/4" [6mm] of over-hang on the wing LE and ends.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 3. Soften the sheeting by rubbing warm water
into the side of the wood not being glued.This will allow the balsa to conform to the shape of the wing when it is rolled.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 4. Apply a thick bead of medium CA down the
center of the top wing spar and down each rib toward the leading edge of the wing. Glue the sheeting to the LE.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 5. Align the edge of the sheeting up with the
middle of the wing spar and, working quickly, roll the sheet down towards the leading edge. A long sanding bar or straight edge will help you apply even pressure.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 6. Once the glue has set, trim the sheeting to
match the shape of the wing.
❏ ❏7. Flip the wing over and repeat steps 1-6 to sheet the
wing panel bottom from the main wing spar to the LE.
❏ ❏8.Locate two of the 3/32" x 3/4" x 30" [2.4 x 19 x 760mm]
balsa TE sheets. Test fit the TE sheeting and mark how far it reaches up each rib so you know where to run the glue. Do this for the top and bottom of the wing panel.
❏ ❏9. Apply a thick bead of medium CA on each rib and
the edge of the TE sheeting that rests against the TE Jig. Glue the top and bottom TE sheeting in place.
❏ ❏10. Sheet the top of the wing center section with
3/32" x 3" x 36" [2.4 x 75 x 910mm] balsa sheets.The center section sheeting rests flush against the TE sheeting and should be trimmed just short of R6 to allow room to trim the sheeting to match the plan. Glue with medium CA. The second sheet should rest flush against the first sheet and is glued in the same manner as the first. Do not sheet the bottom center section until instructed to do so.
Sheet the Wing Panel Top
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❏ ❏11.Finally , fill in the last portion of center sheeting with
a leftover piece of 3/32" [2.4mm] sheeting.
❏ ❏12. Once the CA has fully hardened, trim the top center
section sheeting to match the inside curves shown on the plan.
Hint: For a guide to trimming the sheeting, we used a Hobbico®Cloth Retractable Tape Measure to get the
curve angles for the inner cutout. It closely matches the shape shown on the plan and will give you a nice rounded corner that can easily be cut out. Lining up one edge of the Hobbico tape measure with rib R6 will also give you a close measurement to the actual plan cut out of the sheeting.
❏ ❏13. Locate the 3/32" x 1/4" x 30" [2.4 x 6 x 760mm]
balsa cap strips.The cap strips are cut to fit the rib between the LE sheeting and the TE sheeting as shown, and are centered on the rib.Pay special attention to the cap strip on R10. It is not centered like the other cap strips, but is glued to one side flush with the wing tip.
A single-edge razor blade works well for cutting the straight lines needed to make the cap strips match the sheeting.
At this time you should start building the other wing panel. Follow the above instructions to this point.
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