Great Planes GPMA0440 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE

STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS

IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

© copyright 1997

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

F460P03 V1.0

Introduction

Precautions......................................................................3

Decisions You Must Make...............................................3

Engine Selection.........................................................3

Wheel Selection.........................................................3

Preparations

Required Accessories.................................................3

Optional Retracts.......................................................4

Building Supplies and Tools........................................4

Optional Supplies and Tools

Types of Wood............................................................5

Common Abbreviations...............................................5

Building Notes.............................................................5

Get Ready to Build......................................................5

Die-Cut Patterns...................................................6 & 7

Build the Tail Surfaces....................................................8

Build the Stabilizer......................................................8

Build the Elevator........................................................8

Build the Fin................................................................8

Build the Rudder.........................................................9

Hinge the Tail Surfaces...............................................9

Finish the Tail Surfaces.............................................10

Fit the Torque Rods...................................................10

Build

the Wing

Wing Preassembly....................................................12

Build the Main Wing Panel........................................13

Install the Landing Gear Blocks................................15

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing...................................15

Sheet the Top of the Wing.........................................17

Complete the Wing Middle Section...........................18

Build the Wing Tips...................................................20

Join the Wing Tips To the Wing.................................22

Build the Ailerons..........................................................22

Install the Ailerons.....................................................23

Build

the Fuselage

Fuselage Preassembly .............................................23

Assemble the Fuselage Sides ..................................24

Install the Formers....................................................25

Sheet the Turtle Deck ...............................................27

Finish the Fuselage Bottom ......................................29

Mount the Engine......................................................30

Mount the Wing.........................................................31

Install the Stabilizer...................................................32

Install the Fin ............................................................33

Assemble the Splitter Plates.....................................33

Build the Belly Pan....................................................34

Cut the Wheel Wells .................................................35

Assemble the Plastic Parts ..........................................35

Assemble the Nacelles .............................................35

Assemble the Radio Hatch .......................................36

Radio Installation ..........................................................37

Install the Rudder, Elevator & Throttle Servo............37

Install the Aileron Servo ............................................39

Balance the Model Laterally .........................................40

Covering.........................................................................40

Prepare the Surface..................................................40

Covering Technique..................................................40

.....................................................................3

....................................................................3

.......................................4

...............................................................12

........................................................23

Suggested Covering Sequence................................40

Painting..........................................................................41

Final Hookups and Checks ..........................................41

Install the Hinges ......................................................41

Install the Main Retract Servo...................................42

Attach the Wing Tips.................................................43

Install the Hardware.................................................43

Attach the Canopy & Splitter Plates..........................44

Set the Control Throws.................................................44

Balance Your Model..................................................45

Preflight..........................................................................45

Charge the Batteries................................................45

Balance the Propeller ...............................................45

Find a Safe Place to Fly............................................46

Ground Check the Model..........................................46

Range Check

Engine Safety Precautions .......................................46

AMA Safety Code...........................................................46

General....................................................................46

Radio Control...........................................................47

Flying..............................................................................47

Takeoff......................................................................47

Flight.....................................................................47

Landing....................................................................47

2-View Drawing.............................................................48

Your F-4 Phantom is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
working model that functions very much like a full size
airplane. Because of its realistic performance, the F-4
Phantom, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.

If this is your first low wing sport model, we recommend
that you get help from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler with your first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid
risking your model before you're ready to take the controls
for yourself.

For information on flying clubs in your area, you can
contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA),
which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the
country. Contact AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:

Or via the internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

Your

Radio

.........................................46

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

2

The Great Planes F-4 Phantom is a high performance
propeller-driven sport airplane that closely resembles the
full size F-4 Phantom. In the air, the prop is invisible, adding
to the realism. The smoothness and speed of this airplane
allow you to experience the thrills of flying a jet-like airplane
without the complexity and high cost of a ducted fan model.
The F-4 Phantom is very stable and forgiving, allowing
even intermediate skill level pilots to enjoy it.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!
If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone]. If you are
calling for replacement parts, please reference the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on

the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.

This is not a beginner's airplane! While the F-4 is easy to

build and flies great, we must discourage you from
selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It lacks the
self-recovery characteristics of good basic trainers such as

the Great Planes PT" Series. On the other hand, if you

have already learned the basics of R/C flying, and you are
able to safely handle a .60-size low wing airplane, the F-4
Phantom is an excellent choice to try your skills at flying
a

jet.

1. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases

the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those

instances the plans and written instructions should be

considered as correct.

2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly-sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.

Engine Selection

There are several engines that will work well in your F-4
Phantom, but for unlimited performance we recommend
a hot 2-stroke such as an O.S. .61FX or SuperTigre""
G61. The engine you select will determine how you build
the fuselage nose section, so it is important that you
have the engine close at hand while building. Because of
the size limitations and the nature of this model, 4-stroke
engines are more difficult to install and balance and
therefore are not recommended.

Wheel Selection

Large wheels look unrealistic on a model of this type, so
try to keep the wheels as small as possible. If you will be
flying from a concrete or asphalt runway, we recommend
2-1/2" main wheels and a 1-3/4" nose wheel. For grass
fields, larger wheels will be required, such as 2-3/4" main
wheels and a 2" to 2-1/4" nose wheel.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and you must
make certain that the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue.

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately
the quality of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no

representations are expressed or implied as to the

performance or safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

PREPARATIONS

Required Accessories

Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part

numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the Great
Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite brand and HCA is the
Hobbico' brand.

Four-channel radio with five servos (seven if

mechanical retracts are used)
Engine - See Engine Selection above
Propeller (Top Flite Power Point™); Refer to your
engine's instructions for proper size
Fuel tank 10oz.- 12oz. (GPMQ4104 and GPMQ 4105)
Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)

2-1/2" Main wheels (GPMQ4223)

2" Nose wheel (GPMQ4221)

Top Flite MonoKote' (Approximately 3 rolls)

3

1-1/2" pilot figure (Williams Bros. #171)
Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1050)

Switch and charge jack (GPMM1000)
Top Flite LustreKote" Paint - See Painting (page 42)
1/16" wing seating tape (GPMQ4422)
Silver solder (GPMR8070)
6" servo extension
3" Black spinner (GPMQ4531)
5/32" wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
3/16" wheel collars (GPMQ4309)

Standard Servo
Mixer

(Requires one set of Mains and Nose Gear.)

Pneumatic Retracts

Robart 605HD Pneumatic Retract Mains
Robart 607 Pneumatic Retractable Nose Gear
Robart 188 Air Control Kit
3/16" Adjustable Axles for the Main Retracts

(GPMQ4282)
5/32" Adjustable Axles for the Nose Gear

(GPMQ4281)
3/16" Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
Mini or Micro servo

These are the building tools that are required. We

recommend Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy glue.

2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)

1 oz. Pro CA- (Thick, GPMR6014)
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
Hand or electric drill
Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
Heat gun (TOPR2000)
Hobby saw
Hobby knife, #11 Blades
Razor plane (Master Airscrew®)
Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat tip)
T-pins(HCAR5150)
60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
Straightedge with scale
Masking tape (TOPR8018)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
Easy-Touch'" Bar Sander (or similar)
Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
Lightweight balsa filler such as Hobbico®

HobbyLite'" (HCAR3400)
1/4-20 Tap and Drill (GPMR8105)
IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%)
White body putty (Squadron SQUR1500)
Ballpoint pen
90° Building square (HCAR0480)
Micro balloons (TOPR1090)
Canopy glue
Drill bits: 1/16", 1/8", 3/16" (Long Bit), 5/64", 9/64",

13/64", 3/32", 5/32", 1/4", 7/64", 3/16"

Robart Mechanical Retracts

Robart 608HD Mechanical Retract Mains
Robart 610 Mechanical Retract Nose Gear
3/16" Adjustable Axles for the Main Retracts

(GPMQ4282)

5/32" Adjustable Axles for the Nose Gear

(GPMQ4281)
3/16" Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
Retract servo and Standard servo
48" Nylon pushrod
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors (GPMQ3871)

CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
HotSock"'(TOPR2175)
Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312)
Duratrax Curved Scissors for trimming plastic

parts (DTXR1150)
4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)

4

There are two types of screws used in this kit:

On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with 80, 150 and
220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task. We also keep some
320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes - 5-1/2"
(GPMR6169) for those tight, hard to reach spots;

11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding; and
22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The

Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper comes in
2" x 12' rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183),

180-grit (GPMR6184) and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an
assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short
bar sander. The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it's time
for replacement.

Sheet metal screws are designated
by a number and a length. For

example #6 x 3/4"
Machine screws are designated by

a number, threads per inch and a
length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"

When you see the term "test fit" in the instructions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue and then slightly modify or sand

the part as necessary for the best fit.

Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together,
CA or epoxy may be used. When a specific type of glue is
required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is
highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,
it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
slower) epoxy because you will need either the working

time or the additional strength.
Several times during construction we refer to the "top" or

"bottom" of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to "glue the top main
spar" or "trim the bottom of the former." It is understood that
the "top" or "bottom" of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the "top"
even if the model is being worked on upside down. (i.e. the
"top" main spar is always the "top" main spar, even when
the wing is being built upside down).

Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or hardwood
blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to reach spots.

Balsa Basswood Plywood

Elev = Elevator

LE = Leading Edge (front)
Ply = Plywood
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

Fuse = Fuselage

LG = Landing Gear

Stab = Stabilizer

" = Inches

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets inside
out to make them lie flat. The two-part plan will need to be
cut along the dashed line and taped together. Place wax
paper or Great Planes Plan Protector over the plan to
prevent glue from sticking to the plan.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine

the

name

of each part by comparing it with the plan and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not force them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your
Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Resealable food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.

5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

7

top and bottom surface of the stab until it is flat and even.
Be careful not to sand any area of the stab too thin.

1. Glue the shaped 3/8" balsa forward and aft stab
together over the plan. Make the stab LE from a
3/8" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick. Glue the stab LE to the
forward stab.

Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Hours
after it's sprayed on, residual accelerator can
prematurely and unexpectedly cure the CA you use later,
on nearby glue joints. Unless you must handle or remove
the part from your building board right away, we
recommend using no accelerator at all.

2. Cut the stab tip from the 3/8" x 1-3/8" x 15" balsa

stick and glue it to the end of the stab.

1. Cut a 10-1/2" long piece from the shaped
3/8" x 1-1/4" x 30" balsa elevator TE. Glue the shaped 3/8"
balsa elevator LE to the 10-1/2" long TE.

2. Trim the ends of the elevator TE to match the plan
and sand the top and bottom to the shape shown on the
elevator cross-section.

3. Tape the LE of the elevator to the TE of the stab.
Sand the stab tip to match the angle of the elevator.

4. Go back to step 1 of Build the Stabilizers and build the

second stab and elevator following the same procedure.

3. Cut a 1/8" x 1" notch in the root of the stab, as

shown on the plan.

4. Sand a radius on the corner of the stab tip as

shown on the plan. Use your bar sander to sand the entire

1. Glue the shaped 3/8" aft, forward and dorsal fin

together over the plan. Make the fin LE from a 3/8" x 1/2"

balsa stick. Glue the fin LE to the dorsal and forward fin.

8

2. Cut the

fin tip

from the remaining 3/8" x 1-3/8" balsa

stick. Glue the fin tip to the top of the fin.

C. Use playing cards or business cards to adjust the
height of the pen until you can mark the centerline.

3. Sand a radius on the corner of the fin tip as shown

on
the plan. Sand both sides of the fin until they are flat and
even. Be careful not to sand any area of the fin too thin.

1. Glue the shaped 3/8"

3/8" balsa

TE.

Trim and sand the TE to the same length as

balsa rudder LE

to the tapered

the LE. Draw a centerline on the LE of the shaped 3/8"
balsa rudder (see the expert tip below).

HOW TO MARK PARALLEL LINES

It's important that the centerlines and "bevel to" lines are
parallel to the edge of the part.

2. Set the rudder on its LE and use the parallel line
method to draw a line 5/32" from the LE, on the sides of
the rudder.

3. Sand a taper on both sides of the rudder as shown on

the rudder cross-section.

4. Tape the rudder in position on the TE of the fin. Sand

a taper on the fin tip to match the taper on the rudder.

A. Position the rudder and a ballpoint pen on a flat
surface. Mark a "test line" on the LE of the rudder.

B. Flip the rudder over and mark another line in the
same location as the first. If you see only one line, then it
is on center. Proceed and mark the

centerline

on the
LE. If you see two lines, you will have to adjust the
height of the pen until you can mark the centerline.

1. Place the stab and elevator over their locations on the
plan and lightly mark the hinge locations on the TE of the
stab and LE of the elevator.

2. Mark the centerline of the hinges on the stab's TE
and elevator's LE using the parallel lines method described
in the previous expert tip.

9

CUT HINGE SLOT

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

AND #11 BLADE

3. Cut the hinge slots in the elevator and stab using a
#11 blade. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at
the hinge location to accurately establish the hinge slot.
Make three or four more cuts, going a little deeper each
time. As you cut, slide the knife from side to side until the
slot has reached the proper depth and width for the hinge.

4. Cut the hinges for the elevators and rudder from the
supplied 2" x 9"

hinge material.

Use the hinge drawing

on the fuse plan as a guide. Trim off the corners and

temporarily join the elevators to the stabs with the hinges,
adjusting any hinge slots if necessary. Do not glue in the

hinges until you are instructed to do so.

B. Using the bevel to lines and the centerline as a guide,
make the "V" on the leading edge of the elevators with a
razor plane or your bar sander.

2. Use the same procedure to bevel the leading edge of

the rudder.

3. Draw a centerline on the LE and tip of the stabs, and
on the fin's LE and tip. Sand a radius on the edges as shown
on the plan using the centerline as a guide to keep the radius
symmetrical.

Do

not round the TE of the stab or fin.

1. Position the stabs over the fuselage top view. Mark

the location of the torque rod bearings on the stabs.

5. Return to step 1 and use the same procedure

to

hinge the rudder and fin.

1. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows and shape the LE
of the elevators and rudder to a "V" shape as shown on
the plan.

HOW TO BEVEL THE LEADING EDGE

A. Place the leading edge of one of the elevators on
your work surface and use your ballpoint pen to mark a
"bevel to" line on both sides about 1/8" high.

Note: You will probably have to adjust the height of the
elevator with card stock (as you did while marking the
centerline) so your "bevel to" line is not too high - making
too sharp of a "V."

2. Cut a slot in the TE of the stabs for the tab on the
torque rod bearings. Temporarily install the torque rods in
the stabs.

3. With the stabs positioned on the plan, align the

elevators and mark the location of the torque rods.

10

4. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole, into the elevator LE, at the
centerline and torque rod mark. As you drill the holes keep
the drill aligned with the top and bottom surfaces of the
elevator. Enlarge the holes with a 1/8" drill.

5. Cut a 1/8" groove in the leading edge of both elevators

to recess the joiner wire (see expert tip that follows).

7. Mark the centerline on the LE of the shaped 3/8"
balsa lower fin extension. Cut a groove along the
centerline for the rudder torque rod bearing. The groove
must be deep enough to encase the torque rod bearing.

8. Roughen the torque rod bearing with 80-grit
sandpaper. Insert the bearing in the groove in the LE of the
lower fin extension and glue the extension to the TE of the

fin, as shown on the plan.

HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A TORQUE ROD

A. Use a hobby knife to sharpen the inside of a piece of
1/8" brass tube. Roll the tube as you carve the end.

B. Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading
edge. You'll have to make a few cuts to make the recess
deep enough for the torque rod.

9. Position the fin and rudder over the plan and mark the

location of the rudder torque rod.

10. Drill and groove the rudder LE for the rudder torque

rod, following the same procedure used previously for

the elevator.

11. Sand a taper on the lower fin extension using the

rudder as a guide.

6. Cut a notch in the stab TE to allow the torque rod to

pivot freely.

11

1. Cut four of the 1/8" x 3/8" x 29-7/8" basswood spars to

18" long sub spars. From the remaining 1/8" x 3/8" x 29-7/8"
basswood spars cut four, 10" long sub spars. Save the
leftover spar material for use later.

1-1/2"

2. Sand a 1-1/2" long taper on one end of each 10" and

18" long sub spar.

Retract Gear

4. Skip to step 5 if you are not installing retracts. If
you chose to install retracts, use 30-minute epoxy to glue
the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib doublers R-4R to the die-cut

1/8" balsa ribs R-4 and the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib

doublers R-5R to the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-5. Be
sure to make a right and left of each rib assembly.

5. Skip this step if installing retracts. Use 30-minute

epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" ply rib doublers R-3F to the
die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-3 and the die-cut 1/8" ply rib

doublers R-5F to the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-5. Be sure

to make a right and left of each rib assembly.

6. Cut notches in the balsa ribs to match the notches in

the plywood rib doublers. If installing the fixed landing gear,

also cut the notch at the TE of R-3.

3. Make four main spars by gluing a 29-7/8", 18" and
10" sub spar together with medium or thick CA. Make sure
the sides and square ends are flush.

Note: Be sure the spars are flat and straight.

7. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa

ribs R-1 together.

3/16"

3/8"

3/16"

3/8"

8. Make the center TE plates by using 30-minute epoxy
to glue a shaped 3/16" balsa center plate between a
shaped 3/8" and 1/2" balsa top and bottom center plate.

Make sure to align the ends and the long straight edge.

This will produce a notch at the front for the aileron torque

rods. Make two center TE plates.

12

The main wing is built as one assembly, upside down over
the wing plan.

1. Cover the wing plan with wax paper or Great Planes

Plan Protector. Trim the 3/8" x 3/8" end of two main spars
to the angle shown on the plan. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
the ends of two of the main spars together. Pin the main

spars (longest spar against the building board) over the
wing plan.

2. Glue the shaped 3/8" balsa spar joiner to both main

spars with 30-minute epoxy.

5. Insert the 1/16" plywood center plate in the notch in

rib R-1. Trim the 3/8" x 3/8" end of the two remaining main
spars, at an angle, so they fit against each other similar to
the top spars (remember the wing is built upside down).
Also, check that the spar is flush with the bottom edge of
the wing ribs.

6. Fit the balsa spar joiner between the bottom main

spars, in the notch of ribs R-1.

3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16" plywood

center plate over the main spars and the spar joiner.

4. Pin the die-cut wing ribs R-1, R-2, R-3, R-4, R-5, R-6,
R-7 and R-8 in position over the main spar, perpendicular
to the building board. The notches in the ply rib doublers
will need to be enlarge slightly to allow the main spars to fit.

Do not glue the ribs until instructed to do so.
Note: The jig tabs should be contacting the plan. Use

small T-pins to pin the aft jig tabs to the building board

over their location on the plan.

7. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa sub front cap to the

front of ribs R-1 and R-2.

8. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa sub trailing edge to the
aft end of the ribs. The root end of the sub TEs will need to
be beveled for a good butt joint.

9. Make sure the top main spar, wing ribs and jig tabs
are securely pinned to your building board. Glue the ribs
perpendicular to the top main spar.

10. Use a straightedge and building square to keep the
parts straight and perpendicular as you glue the balsa sub

front cap to the front and the sub trailing edge to the aft end
of the ribs.

13

11. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the center plate in the

notch of rib R-1, bottom main spars and spar joiner. Place
a piece of wax paper over the assembly at rib R-1 and
weight the bottom main spars down. While the epoxy is still
wet, use thin CA to glue the bottom main spars to the ribs
starting at rib R-8 and working toward R-2. The bottom

main spar should be flush with the bottom of the wing ribs,
and the center plate will be bent down slightly on each side
of ribs R-1.

15. Trim and glue 3/32" x 2-1/4" x 3" balsa shear webs,
perpendicular to the front of the main spars. The shear
webs must be glued securely to the main spars.

16. Sand the aft end of the wing ribs flush with the sub TE.

12. Sand the ends of the balsa sub front cap to match
the sweep of the wing. Test fit the shaped balsa leading
edge on the front of the wing ribs. The sub front cap will
need to be sanded an additional 1/16" to compensate for
the ribs in the notches of the LE. Make sure that the LE is
straight.

13. Glue the LE, centered on the front of the ribs. Start

by gluing at rib R-8 working toward R-3.

14. Sand the LE flush with the front of the sub cap.

17. Sand the larger ends of the shaped balsa trailing
edges to match the angle at ribs F-1. Glue the trailing
edges flush with the top and bottom of the sub TE.

18. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

wing dowel braces into the slot in ribs R-2 and R-3.

14

Perform steps 1 and 2 only if installing retracts

1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 3-5/8"
plywood retract mounting plates into the notches in ribs
R-4 and R-5. Before the epoxy cures, glue the 5/8"
hardwood landing gear gussets under the front mounting
plates against ribs R-4 and R-5.

4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/2" x 5/8" x 3/4"
hardwood landing gear torque blocks to the top side of the
main blocks and the plywood sides of rib R-3. Glue the 5/8"
hardwood landing gear gussets to the main block and the
plywood sides of rib R-5.

2. Fit the retract mechanism in place, trimming the

plywood mounting plates as required to allow the retract

to operate properly. Drill 3/32" pilot holes for the retract

mounting screws and temporarily mount the retracts on

the plywood mounting plates with four #4 x 3/8" sheet

metal screws (not included).

Perform steps 3 though 6 only if installing fixed gear

5. Drill a 13/64" hole through the main landing gear blocks
and torque blocks as shown on the plan. This hole must be
drilled perpendicular to the main landing gear blocks.

6. Fit the 3/16" main landing gear struts into the blocks
and fill the unused portion of the slot at each end of the main
landing gear blocks with leftover balsa. Remove the strut.

1. Check all of the glue joints, adding glue where needed.

2. Sand the bottom of the wing ribs, shear webs, main
spars and TE flush.

3. Place the 3/8" x 5/8" x 7-3/8" hardwood main landing
gear blocks in the notches in ribs R-3 and R-5. Mark and
cut a notch in ribs R-4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
main landing gear blocks into the notches, with the groove
facing away from the building board.

3. Cut and glue four 1/16" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets, as

shown in the sketch, to make the top and bottom LE sheets.

15

4. Test fit the LE wing sheet on the wing. Sand a slight
bevel on the front of the sheet. The aft edge of the sheet
should cover the forward half of the main spar and the root
end should cover one of the R-1 ribs.

5. Remove any pins that are holding the wing to the

building board in front of the main spar. You may need to

set weight on the wing to keep the main spars flat against
the building board. Position the front of the LE sheet

against the LE and glue it in position with thin CA.

6. Carefully lift the sheet away from the ribs and apply a
bead of medium or thick CA to the top of the ribs. Working
quickly, pull the sheet back toward the main spar as you
press it down against the ribs and the main spar.

10. Sand the TE to match the angle of the ribs. Glue two

1/16" x 1-1/2" x 24" TE sheets to the TE, sub TE and the

bottom of the ribs.

11. Sheet the bottom center section of the wing, from the
center of ribs R-1 to R-5, using 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets. Repeat the process to sheet the center section on
the other half of the wing bottom.

7. Use thin CA to glue the sheet to the main spar and

sub front cap.

8. Fit and glue the second LE sheet to the other wing

panel, following the same procedure.

9. Trim and sand the LE sheet flush with the front of the

sub front cap.

12. From the 1/16" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
cap strips to the bottom of ribs R-6, R-7 and R-8. The edge of
the cap strip on R-8 should be flush with the side of the rib.

Hint: A single-edge razor works well for this type of cutting.

13. Remove the wing from your building board. Cut and
sand the LE, TE, main spars and bottom sheeting flush with
the side of rib R-8.

16

1. Use a hobby knife and sanding bar to remove the jig
tabs on the top of the ribs. Sand the TE, main spars, shear
webs and the top of the ribs flush. Sand the LE flush with
the bottom forward wing sheeting at rib R-8 only.

2. Assemble the two die-cut 1/8" plywood wing crutches

by inserting the crutch bases in the slots in the main tip

crutches (MTC).

Perform steps 7 though 14 only if installing retracts

7. From the top of the wing, use T-pins to locate the

main gear retract blocks. Trim the sheeting to fit around

the retracts.

3. Position the wing on your building board with the main

tip crutches under the wing tips at ribs R-8.

4. Place enough weight on the wing to keep the main
spars in contact with the building board at rib R-1 and ribs
R-8 seated in the crutch. Glue the top LE sheeting in
position following the same procedure used for the bottom
LE sheeting. Remember, you previously made the LE
sheeting when you sheeted the bottom of the wing.

5. Trim and sand the LE sheeting flush with the front of

the sub front cap.

8. Measure and cut the main retract struts 5-5/8" long

(measured from the surface of the wing).

9. Mount the retracts in the wing with #4 x 1/2" sheet
metal screws (not included). If you are using Robart
Retracts, install a 1-1/4" x 3/16" adjustable axle (not
included, GPMQ4282), 2-1/2" main wheel (not included,

GPMQ4223) and 3/16" wheel collars (not included,
GPMQ4308). The use of various brands of retracts may

require different or additional hardware. Before tightening

the set screws, check that there is no toe-in or toe-out
when the retracts are extended.

6. Make the two sub TE reinforcements from the leftover
1/8" x 3/8" main spars. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the
reinforcements in the slot in rib R-3 and the sub TE.

10. Slowly retract each strut and wheel, cutting away
the bottom sheeting and ribs for clearance. Enlarge the
wheel well to 3", keeping the hole centered on the wheel.

17

11. The wheel well liners can be made from foam or
paper cups of the proper size, or from vertical grain 1/16"
balsa sheeting wrapped around an appropriately sized
glass jar and glued to form a cylinder. Glue the wheel
wells in place and sand the edges flush with the top of
the ribs and the bottom sheeting.

12. Cut a groove in rib R-2 and the wheel well liner for
the retract actuating rod to pass through. Thread a nylon
clevis (not included, GPMQ3800) 13 turns onto the end
of a 2-56 x 12" wire pushrod (not included, GPMQ3750).

17. From the 1/16" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
cap strips to the top of ribs R-5, R-6, R-7 and R-8. The
edge of the cap strip on R-8 should be flush with the side of

the rib.

18. Trim and sand the LE and TE sheeting flush with the

side of rib R-8.

1. Draw a centerline on the die-cut 1/8" plywood front cap.

13. Connect the clevis to the retract. Bend the retract
pushrod to clear the wheel and be below the top of the
ribs. Avoid making sharp bends. Remember, the pushrod

will need to be installed after the top sheeting is installed.

14. Remove the retracts from the wing.

15. Fit and glue the 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 24" TE sheet to the

TE, sub TE and the top of the ribs.

16. Sheet the right top center section of the wing from
the center of ribs R-1 to R-4 using 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets. Before sheeting the top left center section, mark the
location for the aileron and retract servo trays on the top
right center sheeting.

2. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the front cap to the front
sub cap. Use the centerlines on the front cap as guides to
center it on the front sub cap.

3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

4. Sand all the edges even on the center TE plate and

the TE of the wing.

18

5. Check the fit of the aileron torque rods in the slot at
the front of the center TE plate. Position the plates over the
wing plan. Mark and cut notches in the 3/8" center plate, to
allow the torque rods to pivot. Test fit the center TE plates
on the TE of the wing. Sand an angle at the joint between
the two plates so that the plates align with the wing.

10. Give the wing an overall rough sanding to blend the

sheeting and cap strips together.

11. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16"

plywood wing bolt plate to the bottom of the wing, flush with
the aft end and sides of the center TE plate. Use clamps or
weight to hold the bolt plate tight against the wing.

6. Roughen both torque rod tubes and apply a dab of
petroleum jelly to the exposed wire. Use 6-minute epoxy
to glue the torque rod tubes in the slot at the front of the

center TE plates. Before the epoxy cures, glue the center
TE plates to the TE of the wing with the torque rods
centered on the TE of the wing.

7. Extend the torque rod exit slots into the TE of the wing.

8. Trim and sand the center TE plate flush with the top

and bottom TE sheeting.

12. Apply 2" wide fiberglass cloth to the top and bottom
center of the wing. We prefer to adhere the cloth with thin
CA to save weight, but resin or thinned epoxy will work well.
Read the following Expert Tip on applying fiberglass cloth.

Applying Fiberglass Cloth

A. Center one end of the fiberglass cloth on the LE of the
wing. Apply several drops of thin CA to hold the cloth
in place.

9. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood wing LE gauge to sand
the LE to shape. The gauge is held against the LE parallel
to the ribs. Note that the gauge has a root and a tip shape.

B. Roll the loose end on a pencil. Use the pencil as a
handle to stretch the cloth over the wing toward the TE.

Apply a few drops of thin CA to hold the cloth tightly

in position.

C. Make a squeegee by wrapping a 2" wide piece of stiff
cardboard with a plastic sandwich bag or similar material.

19

Perform the following operation in a well ventilated

area with a fan directing the air flow away from you.

D. Starting at the LE, flow thin CA into the cloth. Smooth
the cloth down with the squeegee as you work toward the
TE. Avoid standing directly over the work, as the CA
fumes can be quite irritating to your eyes and nose.

E. Allow the CA to cure naturally without using any
accelerator. When thoroughly cured, lightly sand the
edges with 150-grit sandpaper to remove any edges.

13. Place the die-cut 1/8" plywood aileron servo tray
on top of the marks you made in step 16 of Sheet The Top
Of The Wing. Mark the outside perimeter of the tray and
cut the wing sheeting from inside the lines. If you are

installing mechanical retracts, perform the same procedure

for the retract servo tray. If you are installing pneumatic

retracts, the control valve and mini servo are installed in

the fuselage.

1. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-7/8" balsa spar cut the
forward and aft bottom main spars slightly longer than
the lengths shown on the wing tip plan. Use the
cross-pinning technique to pin the root of the forward main
spar over the wing plan. Place a leftover piece of 1/16"
balsa sheet under the tip of the main spar to raise the spar
to meet the notch in the rib. Pin the spar to the building
board. Use leftover balsa to raise the aft spar to meet the
notches in the rib. Pin the aft spar to the building board.

2. Pin the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs T-3 through T-6

over the plan, perpendicular to the building board.

3. Cut the forward and aft top spars from a second

1/8" x 3/8" x 23-7/8" balsa stick. Position the forward spar

on the ribs. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib gauge to set
the angle of rib T-2. Place the gauge between ribs T-2 and
T-3 with the base against the bottom of rib T-2. With the
remaining ribs perpendicular to the building board and the
spars seated in the notches, glue the top and bottom spars

to the ribs.

14. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood aileron servo tray
supports to the middle and ends of the aileron servo tray.
Make sure the supports are perpendicular to the tray. Glue
the servo tray doublers against the supports. If installing
retracts, glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood retract servo tray

supports to the side of the die-cut 1/8" plywood retract
servo tray. Glue the servo tray doublers flush with the end

of the servo cut-out.

15. Trim the balsa from over the servo locations in ribs R-1.

Glue the servo trays to the ribs.

4. Trim and qlue the 3/32" x 2-1/4" x 3" balsa shear

webs, perpendicular, to the front of the forward main spars.

5. Move any pins from behind the aft main spars to in

front of the aft main spars to hold the jig tabs against the

building board.

6. From a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, cut a 12" long
TE sheet. Glue the TE sheet to the aft end of the wing tip,
starting at the front of the aft main sub spar.

20

7. Remove the wing tip from the building board. Glue

the shaped balsa LE, centered on the front of the ribs. The

notch for rib T-2 will need to be modified to match the angle

of T-2. Be careful not to twist the wing tip.

10-13/16"

1-7/8"

8. Cut a 1/16" x 3" x 29-7/8" balsa sheet in half.
Follow the sketch to make a top and bottom LE sheet out
of each half.

sheet. The cap strips on ribs T-2 and T-6 are flush with the
outside of the ribs.

12. Trim the LE, LE sheet, spars and TE sheet close
to the sides of ribs T-2 and T-6. Sand the LE flush with the
top LE sheet.

13. Remove the crutch bases from the main tip
crutches. Install the crutch bases on the die-cut 1/8"
plywood tip root crutch (TRC) and tip tip crutch (TTC).

Note: The forward crutch base on the TTC will need to be

trimmed to allow the wing tip to seat against the crutch
without touching the base.

9. Sand a slight bevel on the front of the LE tip sheet.

Trim the aft edge of the sheet so that it covers the forward

half of the forward main spar. Position the front of the sheet
against the LE and glue it in position with thin CA.

10. Carefully lift the sheet away from the ribs and
apply a bead of medium or thick CA to the top of the ribs.
Working quickly, pull the sheet back toward the forward
main spar as you press it down against the ribs and glue it
to the forward main spar.

14. Remove the jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs.
Sand the ribs and spars flush. Sand the TE sheet that
extends past the ribs to the same angle as the ribs. Do not
sand the LE.

15. Position the wing tip in its crutch with the bottom of
the wing tip facing up. Weight the wing tip down and follow
the same procedure to glue the LE sheet, as in step 10, to
the wing tip.

16. From the remaining 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet,
cut a 12" long piece to make the TE sheet. Glue the TE
sheet to the aft end of the wing tip ribs and bottom TE
sheet, starting at the front of the aft main sub spar.

17. From the remaining 1/16" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick,
cut and glue cap strips on the top of the ribs from the LE to
the TE sheet. As before, the cap strips on ribs T-2 and T-6
are flush with the outside of the ribs.

11. From a 1/16" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue

cap strips on the top of the ribs from the LE to the TE with the sides of ribs T-2 and T-6.

21

18. Sand the LE, LE sheet, spars and TE sheet flush

19. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8"
plywood ribs T-1 to T-2 and T-7 to T-6. Position the ribs so
that they overhang slightly at the LE and TE. The
overhang will allow the ribs to be sanded flush with the LE
and

TE.

20. While you are waiting for the epoxy to cure, go back
to step 1 and build the other wing tip. Make sure to build it
over the opposite wing tip plan.

21. Sand ribs T-1 and T-7 flush with the LE and the top
and bottom sheeting. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood wing tip
LE gauge to sand the LE to shape. The gauge is held
against the LE parallel to the ribs.

Note: The gauge has a root and a tip shape.

2. Test fit the forward wing joiner and the die-cut 1/8"
plywood aft wing joiner in the wing. The widest end of the
forward wing joiner is inserted in the wing. The aft wing
joiner fits in the groove in the sub TE.

3. Check the fit of the wing tip on the wing. Sand the
wing or wing tip so the joint between the wing and wing tip
is tight and smooth.

4. Wait until after the wing is covered to glue the wing tip

to the wing.

1. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the joiner openings
in the wing tips and wing. The sides of the forward openings
in the wing need to be trimmed at an angle to allow the

die-cut 1/8" plywood forward wing joiner to fit between the
wing spars. Drill 1/8" holes at the punch marks.

1. Pin the die-cut 1/16" balsa aileron sheet over the
wing plan with the LE of the sheet aligned with the front of
the die-cut 1/8" balsa aileron sub LE.

2. Place the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs A-1 through A-6
on the aileron sheet with the front of the ribs flush with the
front of the sheet.

22

3. Slide the die-cut 1/8" balsa aileron sub LE over the

ribs and glue the ribs and aileron sub LE to the aileron sheet.

Note: The sub LE angles aft slightly.

4. Cut a torque rod block from the 3/8" x 3/4" x 8"
balsa stick. Glue the block in the corner between ribs A-1
and

A-2.

5. Sand the TE of the aileron sheet to match the

angle of the aileron ribs.

6. Glue the second die-cut 1/16" balsa aileron sheet to

the top of the aileron ribs, sub LE and bottom aileron sheet.

1. Check the fit of the ailerons between the wing tips and
the wing center TE plate. A gap of 1/32" to 1/16" at each end
is large enough to allow for covering without binding.

2. Place the left aileron on the trailing edge of the

wing and mark the location of the torque rod.

4. Drill a 1/8" hole on the centerline for the aileron
torque rod. Use sharpened 1/8" and 3/16" brass tubes to
cut a groove in the LE for the aileron torque rod.

5. From the leftover hinge material, cut three

aileron hinges.

6. Mark the location for the hinges on the aileron and

wing. Cut the hinge slots, and without using glue, test fit the

aileron onto the wing.

7. Remove the aileron from the wing. Mark the "bevel
to" lines and trim the LE of the aileron to a "V" as shown on
the plan.

7. Sand the aileron sub LE and the top and bottom

sheet flush. the wing.

8. Glue the 3/8" x 7/8" x 13-1/2" balsa aileron LE
onto the front of the aileron sub LE. Sand the LE flush with
the top and bottom aileron sheet and ribs A-1 and A-6.

9. Go back to step one of this section and build the

opposite aileron.

8. Perform steps 2 through 7 to fit the right aileron onto

Great

looking

easy-building fuselage.

Completely read this section on Fuselage Preassembly and
test fit all the parts. These parts require the strength and
working time of 30-minute epoxy glue. This extra working
time will allow you to assemble most of the parts at once.

23

wing!

Now

the

only

section

left

is

the

1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply firewall former F-1B to the
back of F-1A. Make sure that the embossed label on each
former is facing forward and the edges are aligned. Wipe
off any excess epoxy before it cures.

Note: If the formers are warped, clamping them together
will not remove the warp. It is best to clamp them to a flat
table or board.

2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply F-3 ring doublers to the
front of the die-cut 1/8" ply former F-3. Make sure the holes
in F-3 and the ring doublers are aligned.

5. Drill a 1/16" hole at each punch mark on the die-cut

1/8" plywood firewall F-1C and F-1A. Draw centerlines

connecting the punch marks on both sides of F-1C and

F-1A/B. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the front of F-1C and

clamp it to the back of F-1 B, aligning the centerlines.

6. After the epoxy has cured, drill 5/32" holes at the four
engine mount punch marks. If you will be using an engine
mount other than the Great Planes engine mount, use the
centerlines to align your engine mount on the firewall. Drill
5/32" holes at the appropriate locations.

7. Press four 6-32 blind nuts into the holes from the
back of the firewall. Tap the blind nuts with a hammer to
fully seat them. Apply a few drops of thin CA around each
blind nut to secure them in position. Avoid getting CAon the
threads of the blind nuts.

3. The four die-cut 1/8" ply wing mounting plates are
cut with the grain running in opposite directions. Make two
1/4" thick plates by gluing together two plates with the grain
running in the opposite direction.

4. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply retract plate doubler (RFD)
to the bottom (side opposite the embossed lettering) of the
die-cut 1/8" ply retract plate (RF).

1. Build two fuselage sides by gluing together the
1/8" x 1-1/2" x 11-7/16" balsa lower forward fuse side, the
1/8" x 1-1/2" x 9-1/8" balsa lower aft fuse side, the die-cut
1/8" balsa upper forward and the upper aft fuse sides.

2. Sand the fuse sides smooth.

24

3. Build a pair of fuse doublers by gluing together the
die-cut 1/8" balsa upper and lower forward fuse doublers
together. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply upper and lower aft
fuse doublers together.

4. Position the fuse sides next to each other as shown.
Glue the forward fuse doublers to the fuse sides, aligning
the edges of the wing saddle and the forward top edges
only. Glue the aft fuse doublers to the fuse sides, aligning

with only the wing saddle.

Important: Install all the plywood formers with the
embossed lettering facing the front of the plane.

1. Glue 1/2" balsa triangle sticks, flush with the top and

bottom of the doubler, from the front edge of the fuse side
to the wing saddle on the bottom and past the edge of the
doubler on the top.

2. Sand the aft ends of the triangle sticks flush with

the fuse sides.

5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa tail fuse side to the fuse
doubler. Align the top edges only. This will create a gap
between the upper aft fuse side and the tail fuse side.

6. Sand off the forward tail fuse side flush with the aft
fuse doubler (see photo above).

7. Trim 1/8" from the front of the right fuse side only.

This will set right thrust for the firewall.

3. Drill 3/16" holes at the punch marks on the die-cut

1/8" ply formers F-3, F-4, F-5 and F-6.

4. Insert formers F-4, F-5 and F-7 into their appropriate
slots in the fuse sides. Carefully rotate the formers in the
slots to lock them in place. Do not glue the formers yet.

25

5. Slide formers F-6, F-3, F-2 and the retract plate in

position, in that order.

6. Trim the fuse side below the forward lower doubler,
1/8" back from the front edge. Insert the fuse sides into the
slots in F-1 C and tack glue F-1 C in place.

7. Align the fuse over the fuse plan top view with the
firewall hanging over the edge of the table. With the
formers perpendicular to your building board, glue only
formers F-3 thru F-7 to the fuse sides. Do not glue F-2 at
this time.

13. Drill 3/16" holes at the marks for the throttle and
steering pushrod exits. Drill 7/32" holes for the fuel and
pressure lines.

14. If you will be using retracts, mount the retractable
nose gear to the bottom of the retract plate, as far forward
as possible.

Note: If you will be using another brand of retracts, the
retract plate may need to be raised to allow the nose wheel
to retract below the edge of the fuse side doublers. On
some mechanical retracts the nose wheel strut can be bent
slightly. On some pneumatic retracts the nose wheel strut
cannot be bent due to the air cylinder.

8. Cut the "spreader bar" from the supplied Great Planes
engine mount and trim off any flashing. Slide the two
halves together.

9. Temporarily mount the engine mount to the firewall
with four 6-32 x 1" Phillips head machine screws and #6
washers. Do not tighten the screws completely.

10. Place your engine on the engine mount and adjust

the mount until the engine fits.

11. Mark the throttle pushrod, fuel line and pressure line
exit holes on the firewall.

12. If you will be using the fixed landing gear, install a
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector in the outer hole of the
steering arm. Insert the nose gear through the engine
mount. Install the steering arm on the nose gear, on top of
the engine mount. Mark the steering pushrod exit hole
aligned with the pushrod connector.

15. Mark former F-2 for the throttle, steering and retract

(if used) outer pushrods. Remove the former and drill a

3/16" hole at each mark.

16. Reinstall the retract plate and the firewall. Position
the fuse over the top fuse plan and use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the firewall to the fuse sides. Do not glue the "wrap
around" of F-1 to the fuse sides.

17. After the epoxy cures, glue the retract plate and
former F-2 to the fuse sides and the firewall.

26

18. Remove the "wrap around" clamps from F-1C.

19. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue 1/2" balsa triangle
sticks to the joint between the fuse sides and the firewall,
the top of the retract plate and the firewall, and across the
top of F-1.

22. Thoroughly wet the outside of the fuse behind former
F-7B. Insert the die-cut 1/8" ply formers F-7T, F- 8B, F-8T,
F-9 and F-10 in place. Use rubber bands around the aft end
of the fuse to hold it in position.

23. Place the fuse over the top fuse plan and check that

the tail is aligned with the plan. Glue all formers, except

F-10, to the fuse sides, perpendicular to the radio tray.

Temporarily tack glue F-10 to the fuse side. It will need to

be removed later to install the stabilizer.

24. Glue 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stringers in the notches
from former F-4 through F-9. Trim the stringers flush with
the front of former F-4 and the back of former F-9.

20. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply lower tail brace on the
die-cut 1/8" ply radio tray, perpendicular to the tray. Glue
the die-cut 1/8" plywood servo tray doublers (removed
from the servo opening) on the opposite side of the tail
brace, at the ends of each servo opening. This will provide
more wood to hold the servo mounting screws.

21. Slide the radio tray assembly between the fuse sides

and tack glue it to former F-7.

1. From the 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, cut and glue
fillers to fit between the stringers, from former F-7T to
F-8T. Sand the fillers flush with the stringers.

2. Cut two 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets 20-1/2" long.

3. Glue one of the sheets to the top of the fuse side from
the middle of the filler to former F-3. Allow the sheet to
overhang F-3 slightly.

27

4. Wet the outside of the sheet and wrap it around the
formers. Trim the edge of the sheet so that it comes to the
middle of the center stringer. Glue the sheet to the
stringers, formers and filler.

5. Glue the second sheet to the other side of the fuse
following the same procedure to complete the forward
turtle deck.

6. Sheet the rear turtledeck from the filler to former F-9.

9. From the leftover 3/32" balsa sheet used for filler, cut

and glue turtle deck sheeting to fit from former F-4 to the

joint between C-2 and the fuse side. Sand the sheeting

flush with the top of C-1.

10. Lightly draw a centerline along the top of the fuse.

use the top center stringer locations at formers F-4 and F-9

for reference.

7. After the turtle deck sheeting has dried, sand the fuse
sides to blend into the turtle deck sheeting from former F-5
to F-9. Do not blend the fuse sides into the turtle deck
sheeting in front of former F-5. Sand the ends of the turtle
deck sheeting flush with formers F-4 and F-9.

8. Finish cutting out the center portion of the die-cut 1/8"

plywood forward cockpit former (C-1) and the aft cockpit

former (C-2). Glue the cockpit formers centered on top of
the forward fuse side doublers. Bend the aft end of C-2
down and glue it to former F-4. The second set of cockpit
formers will be used later for the cockpit floor.

11. Temporarily pin the fin in place along the centerline
of the fuse. Carefully tack glue the 1 -1/4" x 1 -3/4" x 7" balsa
blocks to formers F-9 and the fuse sides. Do not glue the
blocks to the fin or F-10.

12. Remove the fin and finish gluing the blocks to the
fuse. Trim and sand the two blocks flush with the turtle deck
and former F-10.

28

1. Place the fuse upside down in a cradle to prevent
damage to the turtle deck while finishing the bottom of
the fuse.

6. Insert the 48" inner pushrods into the outer pushrod
tubes. Check for any binding of the pushrods. The outer
pushrod tube holes in the formers may need to be adjusted.

7. Once the inner pushrods move smoothly, glue the

outer pushrods to the formers and firewall.

2. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue 1/2" triangle sticks along
the bottom front of the retract plate and flush with the bottom
of F-1. Do not cover the blind nuts with the triangle sticks.

3. If you are using a nose gear retract, mount it on the
bottom of the retract plate. You may need to lengthen the
slot in the retract plate for the actuator arm and widen the
slot for the nose gear strut in former F-2.

4. Glue the 1/8" die-cut plywood tank floor (TF)
between formers F-2 and F-3 with the tab on the tank floor
resting on former F-2.

8. If you are using retracts, thread 2-56 x 1" threaded
studs (not included) 1/2" into the end of the steering inner
pushrod and the retract inner pushrod. Thread a nylon
clevis (not included) 13 turns onto each stud. Connect the
clevises to the retract and test its operation.

9. If you are using retracts, mount a 2" nose wheel on
the nose gear strut at the location shown on the plan. Cut
off the excess nose gear strut.

10. Cover the forward bottom fuse from the firewall to
former F-3 with the 1/4" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet. Glue the
sheeting (crossgrain) to the fuse side doublers, formers and
the triangle sticks only. If using a nose gear retract, cut a
clearance hole for the retract mechanism, strut and wheel.
Sand the sheeting flush with the back of former F-3.

5. Roughen the 48" outer pushrod tubes (the pushrods
for the retracts are not included). Install the throttle,
steering and retract (if retracts will be used) outer pushrod
tubes through the firewall and formers to the servo tray in
the tail. The throttle outer pushrod tube should protrude 1"
from the front of the firewall.

11. Cover the rear fuse bottom from former F-6 to F-8
with 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet. Glue the sheeting
(crossgrain) to the fuse side doublers, formers and the

29

triangle sticks only. Sand the sheeting flush with the front of
former F-6 and the back of F-8.

12. Disconnect and remove the steering and retract

inner pushrod.

1. Place your engine on the engine mount, adjusting the
mount to tit the engine. When the engine mount is adjusted,
tighten the mounting screws.

6. Remove the engine from the engine mount. Drill a
hole at each mark with a 7/64" drill bit. If you have access
to a drill press, it is the best tool for the job. However, if you
are using a hand held electric drill, try to keep the bit
perpendicular to the rails.

7. Install the engine on the engine mount with four

#6 x 3/4" sheet metal screws.

2. From a leftover piece of 1/16" plywood, cut four small

spacers and tack glue them to the die-cut 1/16" plywood

spinner ring.

3. Center your Great Planes 3" spinner backplate over

the spinner ring and tack glue it to the plywood spacers.

4. Slide the spinner ring/backplate on the engine
crankshaft and secure it with a couple of washers and the
prop nut.

8. Glue the shaped 1/2" balsa top and bottom nose

blocks to the firewall and the spinner ring. Make sure the

edges of the blocks are aligned with the fuse sides.

9. The shaped 3/8" balsa side nose blocks come as
two pieces. Glue the pieces together over the fuse plan to
make a left and right side nose block. Glue the left side
nose block to the left side of the top and bottom nose
blocks, firewall and spinner ring.

5. Position the engine on the engine mount with the
back of the spinner ring 4-3/8" from the front of the firewall.
Carefully mark the engine mounting holes on the rails.

10. Carefully remove the spinner backplate from the

spinner ring and the engine from the engine mount.

11. Glue 1/2" balsa triangle sticks in the corners
between the top and bottom nose blocks and the left side
nose block.

30

12. Trim and glue the second shaped 3/8" balsa side
nose block to the right side of the top and bottom nose
blocks, spinner ring and firewall.

16. Install the engine on the engine mount and attach

the spinner to the engine. Cover the carburetor, exhaust

opening and fuel inlet to prevent dust from entering the
engine. Wrap the spinner at the aft end with a couple

of

layers of masking tape.

13. Glue 1/2" balsa triangle sticks in the corners
between the top and bottom nose blocks and the right side
nose block by inserting them through the spinner ring.

14. Using a hobby knife, razor plane and a sanding bar,
shape the forward fuse and nose blocks flush with the
firewall and spinner ring. Also, use the fuse cross-section
on the fuse plan as a guide.

Note: The bottom nose block bulges out slightly in front of
the firewall.

17. Finish sanding the nose blocks and spinner ring

to

match the spinner.

1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the preassembled wing
mounting plates to former F-6 and the fuselage sides.
Before the epoxy cures, glue 1/4" balsa triangle sticks on
top and bottom of the mounting plate at the joints.

15. Cut a small hole in the center of the right side nose
block. Locate the engine mount and gradually enlarge the
hole to accommodate your engine. Carve the nose blocks
so that there is at least a 1/4" clearance around the engine.

2. Use a 5/16" drill bit to clean up the holes through the
plywood front cap, balsa sub front cap and plywood wing
dowel braces.

31

3. Slightly round one end of both 5/16" x 3-3/4" wing

dowels. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the wing dowels in

position so that the rounded ends are facing forward and
protruding 1/2".

4. With the fuselage upside down in a foam cradle, fit
the wing in the wing saddle. The wing dowels should slide
easily into the holes in F-3. Carefully sand the wing saddle
to eliminate any gaps between the wing and fuse.

8. Tap the holes in the wing mounting plates with a

1/4-20 tap. Apply a few drops of thin CA to the threads in
the wing mounting plates. After the CA cures, run the tap
through them again.

1. On a flat surface, glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

stabilizer jig sides to the die-cut 1/8" plywood stabilizer
jig ends. It's important that the sides are perpendicular to

the building board and the corners are square.

5. Check that the wing tips measure the same distance
from the center of the tail. Mark the center of the TE and
F-6 as a guide for the next step.

6. Hold the wing in position and drill a 13/64" hole at
each punch mark on the wing bolt plate. The hole must
extend through the wing and wing mounting plates,
perpendicular to the surface of the wing. Do not allow the

wing to move out of position while drilling these holes.

7. Remove the wing and enlarge the holes in the wing

only with a 1/4" drill.

2. Place the stabs on the stab jig and note the root angle.

Sand the root of both stabs to create a good butt joint.

3. Place a piece of wax paper over the stab jig. Apply
30-minute epoxy on the root of each stab. Place the stabs
on the jig and press them together. Place a second piece of
wax paper over the stabs. Hold the stabs in place with
weights until the epoxy cures.

Note: We recommend that the TE of the stab be covered
with a strip of MonoKote covering before the stab is glued
to the fuselage. This will allow the elevator torque rods to
be glued in before the fuselage is covered. See the
Covering section on page 41.

4. Remove former F-10 that was temporarily installed

earlier on the fuselage.

32

10. Fill the gap between the stabilizer and former F-10
with leftover pieces of 3/16" die-sheet from the belly pan
sides. Sand the filler flush with the fuse sides, the bottom
of the stab and former F-10.

5. Mount the wing on the fuselage. Without gluing,

insert the stab in the slot between the fuse sides and radio
tray, centering it visually. Carefully trim the LE so that the
stab contacts former F-9, fuse sides and radio tray. Use a
string or measuring tape to measure the distance from
each stab tip to a pin centered in the bottom of F-1. The
distance to the pin must be equal from each stab tip.

Important: Position the plane on an airplane stand so that the

incidence of the wing is at 0%. Set a level at the centerline of

the stab to check that the stab incidence is 0%. A line level

found at most hardware stores works great for this.

6. Mark reference lines on both sides of the stab bottom.

7. Position the model so that you can sight it several feet
away from the front and rear. Check the distance from the
stab tips and the bottom of the wing. The distance must be
equal. If not, sand the high side of the slot slightly to
correct the situation. Recheck the incidence and when
satisfied, remove the stab.

1. Permanently glue former F-10 in position.

2. Final sand the fin and test fit it in position. You may

need to widen the slot in the TE of the stab for the rudder

torque rod. Check that the fin contacts the turtledeck. If not,

lightly sand the bottom of the fin.

3. Place the model on your building board and place
shims under the fuselage until both stab tips are an equal
distance from the building board. Use a 90-degree building

triangle to set the fin perpendicular to the building board,

sanding the slot as necessary.

4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin in the fin slot, the
top of the stab and the top of the turtledeck. Check that the
fin is perpendicular to the building board once again before
the epoxy cures.

8. We recommend a mixture of 30-minute epoxy and
milled fiberglass (for additional strength) to glue the stab to
the fuse. If you do not have milled fiberglass, 30-minute
epoxy will work fine alone. Glue the stab to the fuse sides,
F-9 and the radio tray. Before the epoxy cures,
recheck the alignment from all points of reference.

9. Apply petroleum jelly on the elevator torque rods

where they exit the nylon torque rod bushings. This will

prevent the torque rods from becoming glued to the
bushings. Use epoxy to glue the elevator torque rods in the

TE of the stab.

1. Cut and glue a piece of leftover 3/8" x 1-1/4" balsa
elevator TE to the aft side of the die-cut 1/16" plywood
splitter plates. Sand the ends of the TE flush with the
edges of the splitter plate.

33

1. Use a leftover piece of 1/16" balsa sheet to space the
die-cut 1/8" plywood belly pan former D-4 away from
former F-6. Draw a centerline on D-4 and on the plywood
wing bolt plate. Glue D-4 to the wing bolt plate.

2. Follow the same procedure to install the die-cut 1/8"
plywood belly pan former D-1 to the LE of the wing. You
may need to sand the bottom of the former for a good fit
against the wing. The top of the former must be 1/16" to
3/32" below the top of former F-3.

3. Use a straightedge to draw lines from the edge of D-1
to D-4.

6. Glue 1/2" balsa triangle sticks between D-1 and D-4,
flush with the top of the belly pan sides. The triangles will
need to be trimmed to fit against the wing bottom, between
D-1 and D-2. Use a long bar sander to sand the belly pan
sides, formers and triangles flat.

7. Glue 1/8" x 24" basswood stringers in the notches

from D-1 to D-4.

8. Cut and glue a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet on the

center of the belly pan formers and stringers.

9. Make sure the wing bolts are removed before gluing a

3/32" x 3" x 24 balsa sheet on each side of the center sheet.

4. Glue the die-cut 3/16" balsa belly pan sides to the
bottom wing sheeting and formers D-1 and D-4. Use the
line between the formers as a guide.

5. Draw two lines 1" and 7-1/4" forward of D-4. Place the

die-cut 1/8" plywood belly pan former D-2 on the

7-1/4" line and the die-cut 1/8" plywood belly pan former
D-3 on the 1" line. Place a straightedge on top of the

formers. Sand the bottom of D-2 and D-3 so that they fit
tightly against the wing sheeting and are flush with the
bottom of the straightedge. When satisfied with the fit, glue
the formers in place.

Note: The sheeting at the front will not cover the triangle

sticks completely.

10. Sand the 1/2" triangle and 3/32" balsa sheeting flush

with the sides of D-1 and D-4.

11. Turn the wing over and place a block of wood under
the belly pan in the area of the wing bolt holes. Use the
wing bolt holes as a guide to drill 1/4" holes through the
belly pan. The block under the belly pan will prevent the
wood from splitting

34

12. Enlarge the holes in the belly pan to 1/2". Reattach
the wing to the fuse. Cut the 1/2" diameter paper tube in
half and slide the halves into the bolt holes, pushing the
tube over the head of the bolts. The holes may need to be
enlarged slightly to allow the tubes to slide in.

13. Carefully glue the paper tube to the belly pan with

thick CA. Be careful and use only a couple of drops of
CA to prevent gluing the wing bolts in place.

14. Remove the wing bolts and finish gluing the tube to
the belly pan and wing bolt plate. Cut off the excess tube
and sand it flush with the belly pan.

15. Harden the paper tubes by soaking them with thin CA.

Skip to ASSEMBLE THE PLASTIC PARTS if retracts are
not used.

We highly recommend that all plastic joints and screw
holes be strengthened with fiberglass cloth and thin CA on

the inside of the joint.

1. Carefully cut the wheel well opening in the belly pan
1/16" larger than the wheel well in the wing. A Dremel' tool

with a sanding drum works great for this.

2. Cut out a wheel well liner from a leftover piece of
1/16" balsa wing sheeting. Wet the liner and glue it to the

belly pan and the bottom wing sheeting.

3. Sand the wheel well liners flush with the belly pan.

1. Trim the plastic nacelles along the embossed cut

lines. You can use a hobby knife to carefully score along
the cut lines and flex the plastic until the excess breaks
free, or use small scissors to cut along the cut line. Kyosho

curved Lexan scissors (KYOR1010) work extremely well.
Test fit the nacelles to the side of the model. The top of the

nacelles fit in the groove between the fuse sides and
turtledeck. When satisfied with the fit, tape the nacelles to
the fuselage.

2. Trim the plastic inlets along the embossed cut lines.
Fit the inlets on the front of the nacelles and against the
fuse sides. When satisfied with the fit, sand the inside edge
of the inlets and the lip on the nacelles and glue them

together with thin

CA.

35

3. Before painting the nacelles, fill the seams and other
imperfections with filler such as Squadron White Putty, or
resin filler such as Bondo. We use Bondo most of the time.

It cures quickly and is easy to sand. Squadron putty works

well, but it takes several hours to cure.

4. After the filler cures, wet sand the entire nacelles with

400-grit sandpaper in preparation for primer.

5. Temporarily attach the nacelles to the fuse with

masking tape.

5. Trim the left and right plastic radio hatches and the
hatch front along the embossed cut lines. Tape the radio
hatches together and test fit them on the hatch front. Note

the raised area on the hatch front for the radio hatch. When
satisfied with the fit, roughen the lip and inside edges of the

left and right radio hatch and the raised area on the hatch

front. Glue the left and right radio hatches together.

1. Use epoxy to glue the 3/8" x 5/8" x 5/8" hardwood
tail mounting blocks in position inset 1/16" from the
fuselage sides.

2. Cut two 3/8" wide pieces of balsa from a leftover 3/32"

die-sheet. Trim and glue the balsa pieces between the tail

mounting blocks, 1/16" from the fuse sides.

3. Trim the plastic tail cone along the embossed cut

lines and sand the inside edges. Glue the die-cut 1/8" tail

cone former to the inside of the tail cone.

6. Glue the radio hatch to the raised area on the

hatch front.

7. Trim the two plastic exhaust cones along the
embossed cut lines. Sand the inside lips of the cones and
glue them to the raised area on the hatch front.

8. Use filler to fill the seams and blend the radio hatch
into the hatch front. Sand the filler smooth after it dries and
give the radio hatch assembly an overall sanding with
400-grit sandpaper.

9. Position the radio hatch over the radio tray. Drill 1/16"
pilot holes through the radio hatch and tail mounting blocks.
Attach the radio hatch to the fuselage with #2 x 3/8" sheet
metal screws and #2 washers.

4. Cut a slot in the top of the tail cone to allow it to slide

over the lower fin extension. Tape the cone in position.

10. At this stage, give the entire model a rough sanding.
Refer to the cross-section views often while sanding. The
bottom of the fuselage should be sanded flush with
the nacelles.

36

Some modelers prefer to install the pushrods and radio
system after the model is covered. If this is your preference,
skip ahead to Covering. Return to this section after you
have covered the model and installed the control surfaces.

If installing retracts, skip to step 6.

Perform steps 6 through 8 for retracts only.

6. Trim off all the outer pushrod tubes, 1/2" aft of

former F-8.

7. Cut the 48" inner steering pushrod, removed in
step 12 of Finish The Bottom Of The Fuse, to 35" long.
From the retract end, insert the inner pushrods (end

without the clevis) into the outer steering and retract

pushrod tubes.

8. Cut off 1/2" of the threads on two 2-56 x 12"
threaded pushrods. Thread the 12" pushrods 1/2" into
the inner pushrods at the servo end. You may need to
temporarily remove the clevises to allow enough inner
pushrod to exit at the servo end.

1. Install a Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector in the hole
1/2" from the center of a straight servo horn. Thread a 4-40
x 1/8" socket head cap screw into the pushrod connector.
Slide the fixed nose gear through the fuse bottom and

through the first beam of the engine mount. Slide a 5/32"
wheel collar on the nose gear. Insert the nose gear
through the second beam and secure the steering arm on
the end of the nose gear with a 6-32 x 1/4" machine screw.

Slide the wheel collar against the second beam and secure
it to the nose gear with a 6-32 set screw.

2. Cut off all the outer pushrod tubes, 1/2" aft of the

F-8 former,

3. Cut a 48" inner pushrod, 40" long. Cut off 1/2" of the
threads of a 2-56 x 4" and 2-56 x 12" threaded pushrod.
Thread the 12" pushrod 1/2" into one end of the inner
pushrod. Insert the end without the pushrod into the
steering outer pushrod tube.

4. At the end that protrudes from the firewall, thread the

cut 4" threaded pushrod 1/2" into the inner pushrod.

5. Slide the threaded pushrod through the pushrod
connector until the pushrod connector contacts the inner
pushrod tube. Tighten the 4-40 x 1/8" socket head cap screw
in the pushrod connector and cut off the excess pushrod.

9. Thread a 2-56 x 1" stud half way into the end of a 48"
inner pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over the
stud and thread a nylon clevis 13 turns onto the stud.

10. Insert the inner pushrod tube in the throttle outer
pushrod tube. Place the engine on the engine mount and
attach the clevis to the throttle arm of the carburetor. Attach

the engine to the engine mount.

11. Install the rudder, elevator, throttle and retract servos

(if retracts are used) in the radio tray. Route the servo wires

through F-8 and plug them into the receiver. Plug the
receiver battery into the receiver switch and the receiver
switch into the receiver. Wrap the receiver and receiver
battery in foam and place them in front of F-8.

Note: On our test models, we installed a Great Planes
Switch and Charge Jack Mount in the back of the

exhaust cone after the cone was painted.

37

12. Cut off the inner throttle pushrod tube, 1/2" aft of the
outer pushrod. Cut off 1/2" of the threads on a 2-56 x 4"
threaded pushrod and thread the pushrod 1/2" into the end
of the throttle inner pushrod.

13. Install a Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector on the
throttle servo horn. Do not use the locking washer until
after the control throws are adjusted. Adjust the throttle
control on your radio and the throttle arm on the carburetor
to full open. Insert the throttle pushrod through the pushrod
connector and install the servo horn on the servo. Tighten
the 4-40 x 1/8" socket head cap screw in the pushrod
connector and check the operation of the throttle. It should
open and close fully without stalling the throttle servo.
When satisfied, cut off the excess pushrod from behind the
pushrod connector and install the locking washer on the
pushrod connector.

17. Center the rudder and mark the threaded rod where
it crosses the servo horn (on the opposite side of the
steering pushrod). Make a 90-degree bend at the mark and

cut off the excess wire 3/8" above the bend.

18. Enlarge the servo horn holes with a 5/64" drill bit.

19. Insert the pushrod into the servo horn and secure it
with a nylon Faslink™ connector. With the servo horn
centered, adjust the nose gear so that it is straight. Tighten
the 4-40 x 1/8" socket head cap screw in the pushrod
connector and cut off the excess pushrod. Check the
operation of the rudder and steering making sure there is
no binding. If it operates freely, install the locking washer on
the steering pushrod connector.

14. Make an outer pushrod retainer out of leftover
plywood. Glue the retainer to.F-8 and the outer throttle
pushrod tube to secure it in line with the servo horn.

15. Remove two of the arms on a "cross" servo horn to
make a straight horn. Install a Screw-Lock Pushrod
Connector approximately 1/2" from the center of the servo

horn. Do not use the locking washer until after the control
throws are adjusted. Slide the steering pushrod through the
pushrod connector. Center the rudder servo and install the
servo horn on the servo, perpendicular to the centerline of
the servo. Secure the outer steering pushrod to F-8 with a
second pushrod retainer.

20. Thread a nylon swivel halfway onto each elevator

torque rod.

21. Thread nylon swivel clevises 13 turns onto two
2-56 x 12" threaded rods. Thread a nylon clevis 13 turns
onto a 2-56 x 4" threaded rod.

22. Cut the 12" threaded rods to 5-1/2" long, measured
from the swivel clevis pin hole. Cut the 4" threaded rod to
3-1/4" long, measured from the clevis pin.

23. Attach the swivel clevises to the swivels. Slide the

1/4" split wire coupler over the two pushrods. Slide the
3-1/4" long pushrod into the split coupler from the other
end. Install the elevator servo horn, perpendicular to the
centerline of the servo. Attach the clevis to the servo horn.

16. Thread a nylon swivel on the rudder torque rod so

that it is 5/8" from the bend. Thread a nylon swivel clevis

13 turns onto a 2-56 x 12" threaded rod. Attach the swivel

clevis to the swivel.

24. Hold onto the split wire connector and operate the

elevators to check for any interference with the movement

of the pushrods.

38

25. Adjust the elevators so that they are in the neutral
position and the split coupler is centered on the overlapping
pushrods. Use silver solder to tack the three pushrods and
coupler together, being careful not to melt the clevis.

Hint: A pair of hemostats, or a small pair of locking pliers
clamped to the pushrod between the coupler and the clevis,
will act as a heatsink to help prevent the clevis from melting.

How To Achieve A Good Solder Joint

A. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine sandpaper.
Thoroughly clean the area with rubbing alcohol.

B. Assemble the items to be soldered.

30. Enlarge the servo horn holes with a 5/64" drill bit.

31. Insert the pushrod into the servo horn and secure
it with a nylon Faslink connector (not included). Check
the operation of the retract, making sure that the servo
does not stall when the retract is raised and lowered.

1. If you will be using flaperons install the aileron servos
in the aileron servo tray and route the wires out the side of
the tray. Connect the servos to the electronic mixer and the
mixer to the receiver. If you are not using flaperons install
only one aileron servo in the aft servo mounting hole and
connect it to the receiver.

C. Apply a small drop of soldering flux.
D. Heat the area to be soldered. Apply solder to the

heated area. The metal must get hot enough to melt the
solder and the solder must flow into the joint. Do not melt
the solder by touching it to the soldering iron.

E. Do not move the parts until the solder has cooled.
F. Clean off the excess flux with alcohol.

G. Test the joint by pulling on it.

26. Remove the clevis and swivel clevises from
the pushrods and securely solder the pushrods and
coupler together.

27. Allow the pushrods to cool before reinstalling the
swivel clevises on the 5-1/2" pushrods. Install a silicone
retainer and the clevis on the 3-1/4" pushrod. Reattach the
clevises to the swivels and servo horn and check the
elevator's movement.

Perform steps 28 through 31 if using mechanical

retracts in your model.

28. Cut off 1/2" of

(not included).

29. Retract the nose gear and adjust the retract servo
to the proper position. Mark the 4" pushrod where it
crosses the servo horn. Make a 90-degree bend at the
mark and cut off the excess wire 3/8" above the bend.

thread

from a 4" threaded pushrod

2. Thread a nylon torque rod horn onto each aileron
torque rod until the bottom of the horn is 1/2" above the
surface of the wing.

3. Thread nylon clevises, 13 turns, onto two 2-56 x 12"

threaded rods. Slide a silicone retainer over each pushrod

and connect the clevises to the torque rod horns, securing
them with a retainer.

4. Connect the aileron servos to the receiver and adjust
the servos to the neutral position. Trim two servo horns so
that each horn has one arm. Install the servo horn on the

left side of the forward aileron servo and on the right side of
the aft aileron servo. The horn must
perpendicular to the centerline of the servo.

5. Center the ailerons and mark the pushrods where

they cross the servo horn holes.

be

installed

39

6. Enlarge the servo horn holes with a 5/64" drill bit.

7. Make a 90-degree bend in both pushrods at the
marks and cut off the excess rod 3/8" above the bend.
Insert the pushrods in the servo horn and secure them with

nylon Faslink connectors.

Here is an easy method to remove minor dents in

wood where the wood grain has not been broken.

A. Wet the area of the dent with water.
B. Carefully rub a hot sealing iron over the dent.

C. As the wet wood is heated, the wood grain will swell up.

D. Allow the wood to dry before sanding smooth.

3. After the filler has dried, use progressively finer

grades of sandpaper to even and smooth all the edges,

seams and surfaces. Remove all the balsa dust from the
model with compressed air or a vacuum with a brush and a

tack cloth.

Do not confuse this procedure with "checking the C.G." that

will be discussed later in the manual.
Now that the model is nearly completed, you should to

balance it laterally (side-to-side). An airplane that is
laterally balanced will track better during aerobatic
maneuvers. Here's how:

1. With the wing level and attached to the model, lift the
model by the propeller shaft and the fin. This will require an
assistant. Do this several times.

2. The wing that consistently drops indicates the heavy
side. Balance the model by adding weight to the other wing tip.

Cover the model with Top Flite MonoKote film, using the
suggested covering sequence that follows. Before you cover
the fuselage, apply 1/4" wide strips of MonoKote film in the
corners where the stab meets the fuselage and the fin meets
the fuselage. Then, proceed to cover the fin and stab with
pre-cut pieces that meet in the corners and overlap the 1/4"
strips. Never cut the covering on the stab and fin after it has
been applied except around the leading and trailing edges
and the tips. Modelers who do this may cut through the
covering and into the stab and fin. This will weaken the
structure to a point where it may fail during flight.

Some modelers prefer to cover the top and bottom of the
ailerons with one strip of MonoKote film. This is done by
covering the bottom first, then wrapping the MonoKote film
up over the leading edge.

We used Top Flite MonoKote Tan for the top surfaces and
Dove Gray for the bottom surfaces.

1. If you've hooked up the radio system before covering

the model, disconnect and remove all the control rods,

hinges and control horns. Remove the engine, landing gear,
plastic parts and any other hardware you may have installed.

2. Most of the model should be rough-sanded by now,

with all the rough edges sanded and rounded following the

cross-section views on the plans. Fill all dents, seams, low
spots and notches with HobbyLite balsa colored filler.

Fuselage

1. 1/4" strips at fin and stab as described

2. Aft fuselage bottom

3. Forward fuselage bottom

4. Fuselage right side up to the top center of the turtle deck
and center of nose

5. Fuselage left side up to the top center of the turtle deck
and center of nose, overlapping by 1/8"

6. Fin tip, followed by stab tip

40

7. Stab bottom, followed by top

8. Fin right side, followed by the left side

9. Elevator tips and root ends

10. Elevator bottoms, followed by the

11. Rudder tips, right side followed by the left side

12. Splitters

top

Wing

1. Tips of main wing

2. Trailing edges of wing

3. Bottom right, followed by the left panel of the wing

4. Top right, followed by the left panel of the wing

5. Root of the wing tip, followed by the tip

6. Trailing edge of the wing tip

7. Bottom of the right wing tip, followed by the left

8. Top of the right wing tip, followed by the left

9. Aileron tips, followed by the bottom and top of the aileron

After the model is covered, use fuelproof model paint,
30-minute epoxy thinned with alcohol or finishing resin to
coat areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or exhaust
residue. These are areas such as the engine and fuel tank
compartment, wing saddle and wheel wells.

with Pactra Formula-U or Chevron Perfect Paint. Use

masking tape or frisket film to cover the portion of the
canopy that is not to be painted. If you are not sure that the
paint is compatible with the clear canopy, test the paint on
a leftover piece of canopy material.

For painting the pilots, we have discovered that acrylic
water base paints such as the types found at craft stores
work great. The acrylic paints look realistic on the pilots
because they are flat. Best of all, they clean up with water.

We covered the cockpit floor with 600-grit sandpaper glued
in place with 3M 77 spray adhesive.

Top Flite LustreKote fuelproof paint is recommended for
painting all ABS plastic parts. At least one coat of
LustreKote primer is highly recommended to fill in small
scratches left from sanding as well as small pin holes in the

filler. Wet sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper and

apply a second coat of primer if necessary.

We primed the plastic parts and wet sanded them to fill any
scratches. The ducts were then painted with LustreKote Tan

Paint (TOPR7216). We then glued the ducts to the fuselage
with Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue. After the glue dried,
we mixed 30-minute epoxy and micro balloons in equal parts
and applied the mixture along the seam, between the ducts
and the fuselage. After the epoxy mixture cured, we lightly
sanded the seam and painted it tan.

We cut out templates for the camouflage shapes from file
folders. The templates can be held near the model as the
paint is sprayed. The MonoKote film was scuffed with
400-grit sandpaper before being painted with LustreKote
Olive Drab (TOPR7210) and Testors Dark Green (FS34079).

The radio hatch and tail cone area are painted with

LustreKote Aluminum (TOPR7205) and Black (TOPR7209).

After the model was completely painted and allowed to dry, it
was given several light coats of LustreKote Clear

Flat(TOPR7199).
Before painting the canopy, use scissors or a hobby knife

to trim along the molded cut lines. True the edges with
your bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper. Use 400-grit
sandpaper to scuff the frame portion of the canopy so the
paint will stick. We recommend you paint the canopy frame

1. Starting with the elevators and stab, cut the covering

from the hinge slots.

Installing CA Hinges

The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a

3-layer lamination of mylar and polyester. It is specially

made for the purpose of hinging model airplane control
surfaces. Properly installed, this type of hinge provides
the best combination of strength, durability and ease of

installation. We trust even our best show models to
these hinges, but it is essential to install them correctly.

Please read the following instructions and follow them
carefully to obtain the best results. These instructions

may be used to effectively install any of the various
brands of CA hinges.

The most common mistake made by modelers when
installing this type of hinge is not applying a sufficient
amount of glue to fully secure the hinge over its entire
surface area; or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting
the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in
hinges that are only "tack glued" approximately 1/8" to

1/4" into the hinge slots. The following technique has been
developed to help ensure thorough and secure gluing.

41

Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep, in the center of the hinge

slot. If you use a Dremel" MultiPro'" for this task, it will

result in a cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed
drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the wood fibers
into the slot, making it difficult to insert the hinge, so you
should reinsert the knife blade, working it back and forth
a few times to clean out the slot.

TEMPORARY PIN

TO KEEP HINGE

CENTERED

4. If you have not yet installed and connected the
elevators, rudder, throttle, steering and aileron pushrods,
return to "Radio Installation" on page 38 for instructions.

Perform steps 1 through 6 if using mechanical retracts.

Skip to the next section, Attaching The Wing Tips, if
using fixed landing gear.

It is best to leave a very slight hinge gap, rather than
closing it up tight, to help prevent the CA from wicking
along the hinge line. Make sure the control surfaces will
deflect to the recommended throws without binding. If you
have cut your hinge slots too deep, the hinges may slide
in too far, leaving only a small portion of the hinge in the
control surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small pin
through the center of each hinge before installing. This pin
will keep the hinge centered while you install the control
surfaces. Remove the pins before proceeding.

ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY 6 DROPS

OF THIN CA TO CENTER

OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES

2. Install the elevators on the stab and apply 6 drops of
thin CA adhesive to both sides of each hinge. Allow a few
seconds between drops for the CA to wick into the slot.
Repeat the process to install the rudder.

1. Reassemble the main retracts and retract pushrods

that were removed from the wing during wing completion.

Install the main gear retract servo.

2. A large, round servo horn with holes drilled 1/2"
(12.7mm) from the center will work for most mechanical
retracts. Install Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors (not
included, GPMQ3870) onto the horn as shown and install

the servo horn on the servo.

3. Pack each of the torque rod holes in the ailerons with
30-minute epoxy (a toothpick works well for this). Install the
ailerons with their hinges. Repeat the gluing technique
described previously and allow the epoxy to cure.

3. With the retract pushrods attached to the retracts,
insert the pushrods through the clearance holes toward the
servo. Mount the retracts to the retract blocks.

42

4. Pull the retract pushrods to the stops. This will lock

the gear in the down position. Mark the pushrods about

1/4" short of the servo tray. Make a 90-degree bend in the

pushrods, away from the wing.

Second bend

First bend

5. Make another bend in each pushrod about 5/16"
above the first. Point the pushrods toward the pushrod
connectors on the servo.

6. Hook up and cycle the retracts a few times to make
sure that there is no interference or binding in the linkage.
Make minor adjustments as required. Trim off the excess
pushrod wire at the servo once you are satisfied with the
retract operation.

root of the wing tip and the tip of the main wing. Join the
wing tip to the main wing, holding it in place with masking
tape. Wipe off the excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol before
the epoxy cures.

1. Assemble the fuel tank per the manufacturer's
instructions. Place 1/4" foam padding (not included) on the
tank floor and secure the tank to the floor with rubber bands
(not included) hooked over the extensions on the tank floor.
Insert two 12" pieces of fuel tubing (not included) through

the firewall. Connect one of the fuel tubes to the fuel

pick-up fitting and the other to the pressure fitting.

2. Reinstall the nose landing gear, engine mount and
engine. Apply thread lock to the bolts holding the engine to
the firewall. Shorten and connect the fuel pick-up line to the
carburetor. Connect the pressure line to the muffler.

3. Install the fixed main landing gear in the landing gear

rails, securing them with nylon landing gear straps and

#2 x 5/8" sheet metal screws.

4. Install a 3/16" wheel collar (not included) on the main

landing gear and a 5/32" wheel collar (not included) on the

nose landing gear. Install the wheels (not included) and

secure them to the landing gear with a second wheel collar.

If retracts are used, install the appropriate size wheel

collars for the axles.

5. Reinstall the radio system. Make sure the receiver
and receiver battery are wrapped in foam padding and
secured in the tail section.

1. Temporarily install the wing tip joiners in the main

wing and slide the wing tips onto the joiners.

2. Mark the outline of the main wing on the wing tip.

3. Remove the covering 1/16" inside the outline.

6. Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location.
We used a Great Planes Switch and Charge Jack mounted
in the back of one of the tail cones.

7. Switch on the radio system and center the servos.
Reinstall the servo horns and pushrods.

8. Fasten the receiver antenna along the inside of the

fuselage, toward the front of the model. We used leftover
outer pushrod tubing, cut into 1/4" long pieces, glued to the
fuselage sides as guides.

4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing tip joiners in

the main wing. Before the epoxy cures, apply epoxy to the the wing saddle of the fuselage (optional).

9. Apply 1/16" foam wing seating tape (not included) on

43

1. Before permanently installing the canopy, securely
glue your pilots in place on the cockpit floor. For the most
security, in addition to glue, screw the base of the pilot to
the cockpit floor with #4 sheet metal screws (not included)
from the underside of the cockpit floor.

2. Test fit the cockpit floor in the canopy. The edges will
need to be sanded at an angle to match the angle of
the canopy.

3. Wipe the inside of the canopy clean. Glue the canopy
to the cockpit floor using masking tape to hold it in position
until the glue dries. We recommend a glue specifically
formulated for attaching canopies, such as Pacer "Formula
560" canopy glue. Formula 560 is like regular white glue
(aliphatic resin) in that it dries clear and cleans up with
water but bonds extremely well to butyrate and dries
overnight (to allow for accurate positioning).

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

4. After the canopy glue has cured, place it on the fuse
and drill four 1/16" pilot holes, one in each corner, into the
firewall and former F-4. Install the canopy on the fuselage
with four #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws and #2 washers.

5. Position the splitter plates against the fuselage in
front of the nacelles. Mark the area of contact and remove
the covering from inside the area.

6. Use epoxy to glue the splitters to the fuse sides. Hold

them in position with masking tape.

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons. Adjust the position of the
pushrods at the servo horns to control the amount of throw.
You may also use the ATV's if your transmitter has them
but the mechanical linkages should still be set so the ATV's
are near 100% for the best servo resolution (smoothest,
most proportional movement).

We recommend the following control surface throws:

LOW
Elevator:
Rudder:
Ailerons:
Flaperons:

Note: If your radio does not have dual rates, set the control

surfaces to move between the high rate and low rate.

Note: The balance and control throws for the F-4 Phantom
have been extensively tested. This chart indicates the
settings at which the F-4 flies best. Please set up your
model to the specifications listed above. If, after you

become comfortable with your F-4, you would like to adjust
the throws to suit your tastes, that's fine. Too much throw
can force the plane into a stall or snap roll, so remember,
"more is not always better."

3/4" up & down
1-1/2" left & right
1" up & down
5/8" down w/1/8" up elevator mixed

HIGH
1" up & down
1-1/2" left & right
1-1/4" up &down

44

Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be

omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.

10-7/8"

1. The balance point (C.G.) is located 10-7/8" back
from the leading edge of the wing, next to the fuse sides as
shown in the sketch and on the fuselage plan. Accurately
mark the balance point on the top of the wing on both sides
of the fuselage. Use thin strips of tape or a felt-tip pen to
make the marks.

Hint: Reference the full-size fuse plan to help you locate

the proper balance point. This is the balance point at which
your model should balance for your first flights. After initial
trim flights and when you become more acquainted with

your F-4, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
balance up to 5/16" forward or backward to change its

flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward may

improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may

then require more speed for takeoff and may become more
difficult to slow for landing. Moving the balance aft makes
the model more agile with a lighter, snappier "feel" and
often improves knife-edge capabilities. In any case, please
start at the location we recommend. Do not at any time

balance your model outside the recommended range.

3. Place the model on the balancer at the balance point.
If the tail drops, the model is "tail heavy" and you must add
weight to the nose to balance the model. If the nose drops,
it is "nose heavy" and you must add weight to the tail to
balance the model.

Note: If possible, first attempt to balance the model by

changing the position of the receiver battery and receiver. If
you are unable to obtain good balance by doing so, then it
will be necessary to add weight to the nose or tail to achieve
the proper balance point. Nose weight may be easily installed

by using a "spinner weight" or gluing lead weights to the

firewall. Tail weight may be added by using Great Planes

(GPMQ4485) "stick-on" lead weights. Later, if the balance is

O.K., you can glue the weights to the radio tray permanently.

At this time check all connections including servo horn
screws, clevises, servo cords and extensions. Make
sure you have installed the nylon retainers on the
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors and the silicone
retainers on all the clevises.

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your transmitter
and receiver batteries the night before you go flying and at
other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Carefully balance your propellers before flying. An unbalanced
prop is the single most significant cause of vibration. Not only
may engine mounting screws vibrate out, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration may cause your fuel to foam,
which will, in turn, cause your engine to run lean or quit.

2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, hold
the model upside down with the stabilizer level. The Great

Planes CG Machine'" (GPMR2400) works great for

balancing the model.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

45

Since you have chosen the F-4 Phantom, we assume that
you are an experienced modeler. Therefore, you should
already know about AMA chartered flying fields and other
safe places to fly. If for some reason you are a relatively
inexperienced modeler and have not been informed, we
strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an AMA
chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby shop
dealer if there is a club in your area and join. Club fields
are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer
and more enjoyable. The AMA address and telephone
number is in the front of this manual. If a club and flying
site are not available, find a large, grassy area at least
6 miles away from houses, buildings and streets and any
other R/C radio operation like R/C boats and R/C cars. A
schoolyard may look inviting but is too close to people,
power lines and possible radio interference.

Inspect your radio installation and confirm that all the
control surfaces respond correctly to the transmitter inputs.
The engine operation must also be checked by confirming
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and

rapidly to full power and maintains full power, indefinitely.
The engine must be "broken-in" on the ground by running

it for at least two tanks of fuel. Follow the engine

manufacturer's recommendations for break-in. Make sure

all screws remain tight, that the hinges are secure and that
the prop is on tight.

Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.

Do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning

operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;

the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start

run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt

sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or Jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a "chicken stick" or electric starter to start the engine.

Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain

the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after

operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so

fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

to

away

and

Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational

range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First,

make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). With
your transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100
feet away from the model and still have control. While you
work the controls, have a helper stand by your model and
tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test
with the engine running at various speeds with a helper
holding the model. If the control surfaces are not always
responding correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem
first. Look for loose servo connections or corrosion, loose
bolts that may cause vibration, a defective on/off switch, low
battery voltage or a defective receiver battery, a damaged
receiver antenna, or a receiver crystal that may have been
damaged from a previous crash.

To

stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer's

recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model

Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously successfully
flight tested.

46

off

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having

models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safely rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
name and address orAMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile or any kind).

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired

model

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted

by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the
pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio
control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

The Great Planes F-4 Phantom is a great-flying sport

model that flies smoothly and predictably. The F-4 does

not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of
a primary R/C trainer and should only be flown by
experienced RC Pilots.

Takeoff on "high" rates if you have dual rates on your
transmitter - especially if you are taking off into a
crosswind. For all models it is good practice to gain as
much speed as the length of the runway will permit before
lifting off. This will give you a safety margin in case the
engine quits. When the plane has gained enough flying
speed to safely lift off, gradually and smoothly apply up
elevator and allow the model to climb at a shallow angle
(do not yank the model off the ground into a steep climb!).

We recommend that you take it easy with your F-4
Phantom for the first several flights, gradually "getting
acquainted" with this great model as your engine gets fully
broken in. If you feel as though you have your hands full,
keep this in mind: pull back on the throttle stick to slow the
model down. This will make everything happen a little
slower and allow yourself time to think and react. Add and
practice one maneuver at a time, learning how the
F-4 behaves in each. For smooth flying and normal
maneuvers, use the low rate settings as listed on page 46.

Caution (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched "buzz", this may indicate control surface
"flutter". Because flutter can quickly destroy components
or your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check
all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate
which surface fluttered) and make sure all pushrod
linkages are slop-free. If it fluttered once, it will probably
flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can
eliminate the slop or flexing in the linkages. Here are
some things which can result in flutter: Excessive hinge
gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Sloppy fit of
clevis pin in horn; elasticity present in flexible plastic
pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by

tight bends; Sloppy fit of control rods in servo horns;

Insufficient glue used when gluing in torque rods;
Excessive flexing of aileron, caused by using too soft
balsa; Excessive "play" or "backlash" in servo gears; and
insecure servo mounting.

Before it's time to land, you should climb your F-4 Phantom

to a safe altitude, reduce the throttle to an idle and check
out the model's low speed characteristics. Do this a few
times so you know what to expect upon landing and how
the Phantom handles stalls.

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach. Keep a few clicks of power on until you are over
the runway threshold. For your first few landings, plan to
land slightly faster than stall speed.

Have a ball! But always remember to think about your
next move and plan each maneuver before you do it.
Impulsively "jamming the sticks" without any thought is
what gets most fliers in trouble rather than lack of flying
skill. Happy Landings!

47

TWO VIEW

Photocopy this drawing and use the copies to design your trim scheme.

Printed in USA 3005156