Great Planes GPMA0440 User Manual
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.
© copyright 1997
P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 (217) 398-8970
F460P03 V1.0
Introduction
Precautions......................................................................3
Decisions You Must Make...............................................3
Engine Selection.........................................................3
Wheel Selection.........................................................3
Preparations
Required Accessories.................................................3
Optional Retracts.......................................................4
Building Supplies and Tools........................................4
Optional Supplies and Tools
Types of Wood............................................................5
Common Abbreviations...............................................5
Building Notes.............................................................5
Get Ready to Build......................................................5
Die-Cut Patterns...................................................6 & 7
Build the Tail Surfaces....................................................8
Build the Stabilizer......................................................8
Build the Elevator........................................................8
Build the Fin................................................................8
Build the Rudder.........................................................9
Hinge the Tail Surfaces...............................................9
Finish the Tail Surfaces.............................................10
Fit the Torque Rods...................................................10
Build
the Wing
Wing Preassembly....................................................12
Build the Main Wing Panel........................................13
Install the Landing Gear Blocks................................15
Sheet the Bottom of the Wing...................................15
Sheet the Top of the Wing.........................................17
Complete the Wing Middle Section...........................18
Build the Wing Tips...................................................20
Join the Wing Tips To the Wing.................................22
Build the Ailerons..........................................................22
Install the Ailerons.....................................................23
Build
the Fuselage
Fuselage Preassembly .............................................23
Assemble the Fuselage Sides ..................................24
Install the Formers....................................................25
Sheet the Turtle Deck ...............................................27
Finish the Fuselage Bottom ......................................29
Mount the Engine......................................................30
Mount the Wing.........................................................31
Install the Stabilizer...................................................32
Install the Fin ............................................................33
Assemble the Splitter Plates.....................................33
Build the Belly Pan....................................................34
Cut the Wheel Wells .................................................35
Assemble the Plastic Parts ..........................................35
Assemble the Nacelles .............................................35
Assemble the Radio Hatch .......................................36
Radio Installation ..........................................................37
Install the Rudder, Elevator & Throttle Servo............37
Install the Aileron Servo ............................................39
Balance the Model Laterally .........................................40
Covering.........................................................................40
Prepare the Surface..................................................40
Covering Technique..................................................40
.....................................................................3
....................................................................3
.......................................4
...............................................................12
........................................................23
Suggested Covering Sequence................................40
Painting..........................................................................41
Final Hookups and Checks ..........................................41
Install the Hinges ......................................................41
Install the Main Retract Servo...................................42
Attach the Wing Tips.................................................43
Install the Hardware.................................................43
Attach the Canopy & Splitter Plates..........................44
Set the Control Throws.................................................44
Balance Your Model..................................................45
Preflight..........................................................................45
Charge the Batteries................................................45
Balance the Propeller ...............................................45
Find a Safe Place to Fly............................................46
Ground Check the Model..........................................46
Range Check
Engine Safety Precautions .......................................46
AMA Safety Code...........................................................46
General....................................................................46
Radio Control...........................................................47
Flying..............................................................................47
Takeoff......................................................................47
Flight.....................................................................47
Landing....................................................................47
2-View Drawing.............................................................48
Your F-4 Phantom is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
working model that functions very much like a full size
airplane. Because of its realistic performance, the F-4
Phantom, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.
If this is your first low wing sport model, we recommend
that you get help from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler with your first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid
risking your model before you're ready to take the controls
for yourself.
For information on flying clubs in your area, you can
contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA),
which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the
country. Contact AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:
Or via the internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
Your
Radio
.........................................46
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
2
The Great Planes F-4 Phantom is a high performance
propeller-driven sport airplane that closely resembles the
full size F-4 Phantom. In the air, the prop is invisible, adding
to the realism. The smoothness and speed of this airplane
allow you to experience the thrills of flying a jet-like airplane
without the complexity and high cost of a ducted fan model.
The F-4 Phantom is very stable and forgiving, allowing
even intermediate skill level pilots to enjoy it.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!
If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970. If you are
calling for replacement parts, please reference the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on
the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.
This is not a beginner's airplane! While the F-4 is easy to
build and flies great, we must discourage you from
selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane. It lacks the
self-recovery characteristics of good basic trainers such as
the Great Planes PT" Series. On the other hand, if you
have already learned the basics of R/C flying, and you are
able to safely handle a .60-size low wing airplane, the F-4
Phantom is an excellent choice to try your skills at flying
a
jet.
1. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the plans and written instructions should be
considered as correct.
2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
and a correctly-sized engine and components (fuel tank,
wheels, etc.) throughout your building process.
Engine Selection
There are several engines that will work well in your F-4
Phantom, but for unlimited performance we recommend
a hot 2-stroke such as an O.S. .61FX or SuperTigre""
G61. The engine you select will determine how you build
the fuselage nose section, so it is important that you
have the engine close at hand while building. Because of
the size limitations and the nature of this model, 4-stroke
engines are more difficult to install and balance and
therefore are not recommended.
Wheel Selection
Large wheels look unrealistic on a model of this type, so
try to keep the wheels as small as possible. If you will be
flying from a concrete or asphalt runway, we recommend
2-1/2" main wheels and a 1-3/4" nose wheel. For grass
fields, larger wheels will be required, such as 2-3/4" main
wheels and a 2" to 2-1/4" nose wheel.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and you must
make certain that the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately
the quality of your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
PREPARATIONS
Required Accessories
Items in parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the Great
Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite brand and HCA is the
Hobbico' brand.
Four-channel radio with five servos (seven if
mechanical retracts are used)
Engine - See Engine Selection above
Propeller (Top Flite Power Point™); Refer to your
engine's instructions for proper size
Fuel tank 10oz.- 12oz. (GPMQ4104 and GPMQ 4105)
Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
2-1/2" Main wheels (GPMQ4223)
2" Nose wheel (GPMQ4221)
Top Flite MonoKote' (Approximately 3 rolls)
3
1-1/2" pilot figure (Williams Bros. #171)
Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1050)
Switch and charge jack (GPMM1000)
Top Flite LustreKote" Paint - See Painting (page 42)
1/16" wing seating tape (GPMQ4422)
Silver solder (GPMR8070)
6" servo extension
3" Black spinner (GPMQ4531)
5/32" wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
3/16" wheel collars (GPMQ4309)
Standard Servo
Mixer
(Requires one set of Mains and Nose Gear.)
Pneumatic Retracts
Robart 605HD Pneumatic Retract Mains
Robart 607 Pneumatic Retractable Nose Gear
Robart 188 Air Control Kit
3/16" Adjustable Axles for the Main Retracts
(GPMQ4282)
5/32" Adjustable Axles for the Nose Gear
(GPMQ4281)
3/16" Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
Mini or Micro servo
These are the building tools that are required. We
recommend Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy glue.
2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
1 oz. Pro CA- (Thick, GPMR6014)
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
Hand or electric drill
Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
Heat gun (TOPR2000)
Hobby saw
Hobby knife, #11 Blades
Razor plane (Master Airscrew®)
Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat tip)
T-pins(HCAR5150)
60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
Straightedge with scale
Masking tape (TOPR8018)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
Easy-Touch'" Bar Sander (or similar)
Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
Lightweight balsa filler such as Hobbico®
HobbyLite'" (HCAR3400)
1/4-20 Tap and Drill (GPMR8105)
IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%)
White body putty (Squadron SQUR1500)
Ballpoint pen
90° Building square (HCAR0480)
Micro balloons (TOPR1090)
Canopy glue
Drill bits: 1/16", 1/8", 3/16" (Long Bit), 5/64", 9/64",
13/64", 3/32", 5/32", 1/4", 7/64", 3/16"
Robart Mechanical Retracts
Robart 608HD Mechanical Retract Mains
Robart 610 Mechanical Retract Nose Gear
3/16" Adjustable Axles for the Main Retracts
(GPMQ4282)
5/32" Adjustable Axles for the Nose Gear
(GPMQ4281)
3/16" Wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
Retract servo and Standard servo
48" Nylon pushrod
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors (GPMQ3871)
CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
HotSock"'(TOPR2175)
Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312)
Duratrax Curved Scissors for trimming plastic
parts (DTXR1150)
4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)
4
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
On our workbench, we have three 11" Great Planes
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with 80, 150 and
220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for
almost any sanding task. We also keep some
320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish sanding
before covering.
Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
lightweight extruded aluminum and can be found at most
hobby shops. They are available in five sizes - 5-1/2"
(GPMR6169) for those tight, hard to reach spots;
11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding; and
22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176)
for long surfaces such as wing leading edges. The
Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper comes in
2" x 12' rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183),
180-grit (GPMR6184) and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an
assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short
bar sander. The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it's time
for replacement.
Sheet metal screws are designated
by a number and a length. For
example #6 x 3/4"
Machine screws are designated by
a number, threads per inch and a
length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"
When you see the term "test fit" in the instructions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue and then slightly modify or sand
the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces together,
CA or epoxy may be used. When a specific type of glue is
required, the instructions will state the type of glue that is
highly recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,
it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
slower) epoxy because you will need either the working
time or the additional strength.
Several times during construction we refer to the "top" or
"bottom" of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to "glue the top main
spar" or "trim the bottom of the former." It is understood that
the "top" or "bottom" of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the "top"
even if the model is being worked on upside down. (i.e. the
"top" main spar is always the "top" main spar, even when
the wing is being built upside down).
Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or hardwood
blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to reach spots.
Balsa Basswood Plywood
Elev = Elevator
LE = Leading Edge (front)
Ply = Plywood
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
Fuse = Fuselage
LG = Landing Gear
Stab = Stabilizer
" = Inches
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets inside
out to make them lie flat. The two-part plan will need to be
cut along the dashed line and taped together. Place wax
paper or Great Planes Plan Protector over the plan to
prevent glue from sticking to the plan.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine
the
name
of each part by comparing it with the plan and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not force them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your
Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Resealable food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.
5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
6
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
7
top and bottom surface of the stab until it is flat and even.
Be careful not to sand any area of the stab too thin.
1. Glue the shaped 3/8" balsa forward and aft stab
together over the plan. Make the stab LE from a
3/8" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick. Glue the stab LE to the
forward stab.
Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Hours
after it's sprayed on, residual accelerator can
prematurely and unexpectedly cure the CA you use later,
on nearby glue joints. Unless you must handle or remove
the part from your building board right away, we
recommend using no accelerator at all.
2. Cut the stab tip from the 3/8" x 1-3/8" x 15" balsa
stick and glue it to the end of the stab.
1. Cut a 10-1/2" long piece from the shaped
3/8" x 1-1/4" x 30" balsa elevator TE. Glue the shaped 3/8"
balsa elevator LE to the 10-1/2" long TE.
2. Trim the ends of the elevator TE to match the plan
and sand the top and bottom to the shape shown on the
elevator cross-section.
3. Tape the LE of the elevator to the TE of the stab.
Sand the stab tip to match the angle of the elevator.
4. Go back to step 1 of Build the Stabilizers and build the
second stab and elevator following the same procedure.
3. Cut a 1/8" x 1" notch in the root of the stab, as
shown on the plan.
4. Sand a radius on the corner of the stab tip as
shown on the plan. Use your bar sander to sand the entire
1. Glue the shaped 3/8" aft, forward and dorsal fin
together over the plan. Make the fin LE from a 3/8" x 1/2"
balsa stick. Glue the fin LE to the dorsal and forward fin.
8
2. Cut the
fin tip
from the remaining 3/8" x 1-3/8" balsa
stick. Glue the fin tip to the top of the fin.
C. Use playing cards or business cards to adjust the
height of the pen until you can mark the centerline.
3. Sand a radius on the corner of the fin tip as shown
on
the plan. Sand both sides of the fin until they are flat and
even. Be careful not to sand any area of the fin too thin.
1. Glue the shaped 3/8"
3/8" balsa
TE.
Trim and sand the TE to the same length as
balsa rudder LE
to the tapered
the LE. Draw a centerline on the LE of the shaped 3/8"
balsa rudder (see the expert tip below).
HOW TO MARK PARALLEL LINES
It's important that the centerlines and "bevel to" lines are
parallel to the edge of the part.
2. Set the rudder on its LE and use the parallel line
method to draw a line 5/32" from the LE, on the sides of
the rudder.
3. Sand a taper on both sides of the rudder as shown on
the rudder cross-section.
4. Tape the rudder in position on the TE of the fin. Sand
a taper on the fin tip to match the taper on the rudder.
A. Position the rudder and a ballpoint pen on a flat
surface. Mark a "test line" on the LE of the rudder.
B. Flip the rudder over and mark another line in the
same location as the first. If you see only one line, then it
is on center. Proceed and mark the
centerline
on the
LE. If you see two lines, you will have to adjust the
height of the pen until you can mark the centerline.
1. Place the stab and elevator over their locations on the
plan and lightly mark the hinge locations on the TE of the
stab and LE of the elevator.
2. Mark the centerline of the hinges on the stab's TE
and elevator's LE using the parallel lines method described
in the previous expert tip.
9
CUT HINGE SLOT
WITH HOBBY KNIFE
AND #11 BLADE
3. Cut the hinge slots in the elevator and stab using a
#11 blade. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at
the hinge location to accurately establish the hinge slot.
Make three or four more cuts, going a little deeper each
time. As you cut, slide the knife from side to side until the
slot has reached the proper depth and width for the hinge.
4. Cut the hinges for the elevators and rudder from the
supplied 2" x 9"
hinge material.
Use the hinge drawing
on the fuse plan as a guide. Trim off the corners and
temporarily join the elevators to the stabs with the hinges,
adjusting any hinge slots if necessary. Do not glue in the
hinges until you are instructed to do so.
B. Using the bevel to lines and the centerline as a guide,
make the "V" on the leading edge of the elevators with a
razor plane or your bar sander.
2. Use the same procedure to bevel the leading edge of
the rudder.
3. Draw a centerline on the LE and tip of the stabs, and
on the fin's LE and tip. Sand a radius on the edges as shown
on the plan using the centerline as a guide to keep the radius
symmetrical.
Do
not round the TE of the stab or fin.
1. Position the stabs over the fuselage top view. Mark
the location of the torque rod bearings on the stabs.
5. Return to step 1 and use the same procedure
to
hinge the rudder and fin.
1. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows and shape the LE
of the elevators and rudder to a "V" shape as shown on
the plan.
HOW TO BEVEL THE LEADING EDGE
A. Place the leading edge of one of the elevators on
your work surface and use your ballpoint pen to mark a
"bevel to" line on both sides about 1/8" high.
Note: You will probably have to adjust the height of the
elevator with card stock (as you did while marking the
centerline) so your "bevel to" line is not too high - making
too sharp of a "V."
2. Cut a slot in the TE of the stabs for the tab on the
torque rod bearings. Temporarily install the torque rods in
the stabs.
3. With the stabs positioned on the plan, align the
elevators and mark the location of the torque rods.
10
4. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole, into the elevator LE, at the
centerline and torque rod mark. As you drill the holes keep
the drill aligned with the top and bottom surfaces of the
elevator. Enlarge the holes with a 1/8" drill.
5. Cut a 1/8" groove in the leading edge of both elevators
to recess the joiner wire (see expert tip that follows).
7. Mark the centerline on the LE of the shaped 3/8"
balsa lower fin extension. Cut a groove along the
centerline for the rudder torque rod bearing. The groove
must be deep enough to encase the torque rod bearing.
8. Roughen the torque rod bearing with 80-grit
sandpaper. Insert the bearing in the groove in the LE of the
lower fin extension and glue the extension to the TE of the
fin, as shown on the plan.
HOW TO CUT A GROOVE FOR A TORQUE ROD
A. Use a hobby knife to sharpen the inside of a piece of
1/8" brass tube. Roll the tube as you carve the end.
B. Use the sharpened tube to carefully gouge the leading
edge. You'll have to make a few cuts to make the recess
deep enough for the torque rod.
9. Position the fin and rudder over the plan and mark the
location of the rudder torque rod.
10. Drill and groove the rudder LE for the rudder torque
rod, following the same procedure used previously for
the elevator.
11. Sand a taper on the lower fin extension using the
rudder as a guide.
6. Cut a notch in the stab TE to allow the torque rod to
pivot freely.
11
1. Cut four of the 1/8" x 3/8" x 29-7/8" basswood spars to
18" long sub spars. From the remaining 1/8" x 3/8" x 29-7/8"
basswood spars cut four, 10" long sub spars. Save the
leftover spar material for use later.
1-1/2"
2. Sand a 1-1/2" long taper on one end of each 10" and
18" long sub spar.
Retract Gear
4. Skip to step 5 if you are not installing retracts. If
you chose to install retracts, use 30-minute epoxy to glue
the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib doublers R-4R to the die-cut
1/8" balsa ribs R-4 and the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib
doublers R-5R to the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-5. Be
sure to make a right and left of each rib assembly.
5. Skip this step if installing retracts. Use 30-minute
epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" ply rib doublers R-3F to the
die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-3 and the die-cut 1/8" ply rib
doublers R-5F to the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-5. Be sure
to make a right and left of each rib assembly.
6. Cut notches in the balsa ribs to match the notches in
the plywood rib doublers. If installing the fixed landing gear,
also cut the notch at the TE of R-3.
3. Make four main spars by gluing a 29-7/8", 18" and
10" sub spar together with medium or thick CA. Make sure
the sides and square ends are flush.
Note: Be sure the spars are flat and straight.
7. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa
ribs R-1 together.
3/16"
3/8"
3/16"
3/8"
8. Make the center TE plates by using 30-minute epoxy
to glue a shaped 3/16" balsa center plate between a
shaped 3/8" and 1/2" balsa top and bottom center plate.
Make sure to align the ends and the long straight edge.
This will produce a notch at the front for the aileron torque
rods. Make two center TE plates.
12
The main wing is built as one assembly, upside down over
the wing plan.
1. Cover the wing plan with wax paper or Great Planes
Plan Protector. Trim the 3/8" x 3/8" end of two main spars
to the angle shown on the plan. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
the ends of two of the main spars together. Pin the main
spars (longest spar against the building board) over the
wing plan.
2. Glue the shaped 3/8" balsa spar joiner to both main
spars with 30-minute epoxy.
5. Insert the 1/16" plywood center plate in the notch in
rib R-1. Trim the 3/8" x 3/8" end of the two remaining main
spars, at an angle, so they fit against each other similar to
the top spars (remember the wing is built upside down).
Also, check that the spar is flush with the bottom edge of
the wing ribs.
6. Fit the balsa spar joiner between the bottom main
spars, in the notch of ribs R-1.
3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16" plywood
center plate over the main spars and the spar joiner.
4. Pin the die-cut wing ribs R-1, R-2, R-3, R-4, R-5, R-6,
R-7 and R-8 in position over the main spar, perpendicular
to the building board. The notches in the ply rib doublers
will need to be enlarge slightly to allow the main spars to fit.
Do not glue the ribs until instructed to do so.
Note: The jig tabs should be contacting the plan. Use
small T-pins to pin the aft jig tabs to the building board
over their location on the plan.
7. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa sub front cap to the
front of ribs R-1 and R-2.
8. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa sub trailing edge to the
aft end of the ribs. The root end of the sub TEs will need to
be beveled for a good butt joint.
9. Make sure the top main spar, wing ribs and jig tabs
are securely pinned to your building board. Glue the ribs
perpendicular to the top main spar.
10. Use a straightedge and building square to keep the
parts straight and perpendicular as you glue the balsa sub
front cap to the front and the sub trailing edge to the aft end
of the ribs.
13
11. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the center plate in the
notch of rib R-1, bottom main spars and spar joiner. Place
a piece of wax paper over the assembly at rib R-1 and
weight the bottom main spars down. While the epoxy is still
wet, use thin CA to glue the bottom main spars to the ribs
starting at rib R-8 and working toward R-2. The bottom
main spar should be flush with the bottom of the wing ribs,
and the center plate will be bent down slightly on each side
of ribs R-1.
15. Trim and glue 3/32" x 2-1/4" x 3" balsa shear webs,
perpendicular to the front of the main spars. The shear
webs must be glued securely to the main spars.
16. Sand the aft end of the wing ribs flush with the sub TE.
12. Sand the ends of the balsa sub front cap to match
the sweep of the wing. Test fit the shaped balsa leading
edge on the front of the wing ribs. The sub front cap will
need to be sanded an additional 1/16" to compensate for
the ribs in the notches of the LE. Make sure that the LE is
straight.
13. Glue the LE, centered on the front of the ribs. Start
by gluing at rib R-8 working toward R-3.
14. Sand the LE flush with the front of the sub cap.
17. Sand the larger ends of the shaped balsa trailing
edges to match the angle at ribs F-1. Glue the trailing
edges flush with the top and bottom of the sub TE.
18. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
wing dowel braces into the slot in ribs R-2 and R-3.
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Perform steps 1 and 2 only if installing retracts
1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 3-5/8"
plywood retract mounting plates into the notches in ribs
R-4 and R-5. Before the epoxy cures, glue the 5/8"
hardwood landing gear gussets under the front mounting
plates against ribs R-4 and R-5.
4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/2" x 5/8" x 3/4"
hardwood landing gear torque blocks to the top side of the
main blocks and the plywood sides of rib R-3. Glue the 5/8"
hardwood landing gear gussets to the main block and the
plywood sides of rib R-5.
2. Fit the retract mechanism in place, trimming the
plywood mounting plates as required to allow the retract
to operate properly. Drill 3/32" pilot holes for the retract
mounting screws and temporarily mount the retracts on
the plywood mounting plates with four #4 x 3/8" sheet
metal screws (not included).
Perform steps 3 though 6 only if installing fixed gear
5. Drill a 13/64" hole through the main landing gear blocks
and torque blocks as shown on the plan. This hole must be
drilled perpendicular to the main landing gear blocks.
6. Fit the 3/16" main landing gear struts into the blocks
and fill the unused portion of the slot at each end of the main
landing gear blocks with leftover balsa. Remove the strut.
1. Check all of the glue joints, adding glue where needed.
2. Sand the bottom of the wing ribs, shear webs, main
spars and TE flush.
3. Place the 3/8" x 5/8" x 7-3/8" hardwood main landing
gear blocks in the notches in ribs R-3 and R-5. Mark and
cut a notch in ribs R-4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
main landing gear blocks into the notches, with the groove
facing away from the building board.
3. Cut and glue four 1/16" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets, as
shown in the sketch, to make the top and bottom LE sheets.
15
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