Great Planes GPMA0439 User Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WARRANTY

Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Urbana, IL 61801 [phone]

Entire Contents © Copyright 1995

LEA4P03 V1.1

P.O.

Box

LEARJET is a registered trademark of LEARJET, INC.

788

INTRODUCTION..............................................................2

PRECAUTIONS.................................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3

Engine and mount

Fixed or retractable landing gear.................................3

PREPARATIONS...............................................................3

Accessories and additional items................................3

Optional retracts. ........................................................4

Building supplies and tools..........................................4

Types

of

wood

Common abbreviations ...............................................4

What about adhesives?...............................................5

Die-cut patterns.....................................................6 & 7

Get ready to build ........................................................8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES...........................................8

Vertical fin and rudder
Stabilizer and elevators

BUILD

THE WING

Prepare subassemblies.............................................11

Assemble the wings .................................................12

Completing the wing panels ......................................14

Join the wings............................................................16

Sand the leading edge ..............................................18

Assemble and install the tip tanks.............................18

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ................................................19

Frame the fuselage ...................................................20

Mount the engine ......................................................26

Install the canopy and cowl .......................................26

Mount the wing.............!............................................28

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Install the tail group ...................................................29

Assemble the engine nacelles...................................30

Balance the airplane laterally

FINISHING.......................................................................31

Fuel proofing .............................................................31

Final sanding before covering ...................................31

Applying MonoKote" covering ...................................31

Covering sequence ...................................................32

Painting .....................................................................32

Apply the decals . .....................................................32

INSTALL THE RADIO AND CONTROL SURFACES .....32

Install receiver and switch

Hinge and hook up the controls.................................33

Recommended control surface throws......................35

COMPLETE THE MODEL...............................................36

Install the
Install retractable

Install fixed landing gear............................................36

Install the nacelles and tip tanks
Balance the model

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE...................................................37

Balance the propeller ................................................37

Preflight .. . .. ............................................................38

Range check your radio ............................................38

Engine

AMA Safety Code......................................................38

fuel

safety

.......................................................3

.............................................................4

.................................................8

.............................................10

...........................................................11

..........................................................29

....................................30

.........................................32

tank

....................................................36

landing

precautions

fore

gear

..................................36

...............................37

and aft

.................................37

.........................................38

FLYING............................................................................39

Find a safe place to fly ..............................................39

Takeoff.......................................................................39

Flight......................................................................... 39

Landing......................................................................40

TWO VIEW DRAWING

Your Great Planes Learjet is not a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the Learjet, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your
first flights. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered
clubs across the country Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Learjet!

This Learjet is a sport model of the full-size Learjet 35A. It
was designed by noted Ultra Sport'" modeler Jim
Feldmann It's easy to build and fly, predictable, fairly
aerobatic and has no "bad habits," making it a great sport
airplane. Traditional Great Planes quality and ruggedness
is evident throughout this kit, making this an airplane you'll
want to take along every time you go to the flying field.

....................................................40

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

2

This is not a beginner's airplane! While the Learjet is

fairly easy to build and flies great, we must discourage you
from selecting this kit as your first R/C airplane It can be
fast, highly maneuverable and lacks the self-recovery
characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the Great
Planes PT Series On the other hand, if you have already
learned the basics of R/C flying and you are able to safely
handle a "trainer" airplane, the Learjet is an excellent
choice to improve your skills and learn new maneuvers.

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if
you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at [phone]. If you are
calling for replacement parts, please reference the part
numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on
the end of the carton) and have them ready when calling.

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so

may result in an unsafe or unflyable model In a few cases
the plan and instructions may differ slightly from the

photos In those instances you should assume the plan
and written instructions are correct

Engine And Mount

The recommended engine size range is as follows'

40 - .50 cubic inch displacement 2-stroke.

This kit includes a Great Planes EM2840 engine mount
that fits nearly all 2-stroke engines in the recommended
range If you prefer, you may purchase a custom engine
mount for your engine, or you may choose to install
shock-absorbing, rubber-cushioned mounts.

Fixed or retractable landing gear

The Great Planes Learjet includes prebent wire landing
gear for fixed installation To add to the sleek and realistic
appearance of your model in flight, you may want to
install retracts We have included instructions for both
installations However, you will need to purchase a set of
three mechanical retracts, two servos, and a "Y" harness
if you choose the retract option Pneumatic retracts may
be used in place of the suggested mechanical units if you
prefer

2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc ) throughout your
building process.

4 You must properly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot if you are not already

an experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.

NOTE We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately
the quality of your finished model depends on how you
build it, therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

D Four or five channel radio with 4 to 6 servos

(optional retracts)
D 6" Servo extension cord
D Propellers (See engine instructions)
D 2-1/4" Jet spinner

(white GPMQ4542) (black GPMQ4540)
D 6 to 8 oz Fuel tank

(6 oz GPMQ4102 8 oz GPMQ4103)
D 2 oz Thin CA adhesive (GPMR6015)
D 2 oz Medium CA adhesive (GPMR6009)
D 1 oz Thick CA adhesive (GPMR6014)
D 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
D 30-Minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
D 1-3/4" Nose wheel (GPMQ4220)
D 2" Main wheels (GPMQ4221)
D 5/32" Wheel collars (6) (GPMQ4306)
D Model covering (2 - 3 rolls)

(Top Flite MonoKote" Covering)
D Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
D 1/2" thick Latex foam rubber padding (HCAQ1050)
D Sliver solder (recommended) (GPMR8070 w/flux)
D Switch & charge jack mount (optional) (GPMM1000)
D Fuel filter (optional) (GPMQ4150)
D Fuelproof paint

(see "Painting" section of instructions on page 32)

3

D Tricycle retract gear - (HCAP4000)
D Retract servo (Futaba S136G or similar)
D Standard servo for nose gear retract
D Servo "Y" harness
D 1-1/4" x 5/32" Wheel axles (3) (GPMQ4280)
D 2-56 x 12" Threaded wire pushrods (2) (GPMQ3750)
D 2-56 x 36" Threaded wire pushrods (1) (GPMQ3716)
D Screw-Lock pushrod connector (3) (GPMQ3870)
D 4-40 x 1/8" Set screws

*ltems in parentheses (GPMQ1234) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and
are listed for your convenience GPM is the Great Planes
brand, HCA is the Hobbico® brand, TOP is Top Flite

D Hand or electric drill *
D Drill bits 1/16", 3/32", 7/64" or #35, 1/8", #29 or

9/64", 3/16", #10 or 13/64", 15/64", 17/64" and 1/4"
D Sealing iron - (TOPR2100)
D Hot sock (optional) - (TOPR2175)
D Heat gun (optional) - (TOPR2000)
D Razor saw
D #1 knife handle - (XACR4305)
D #11 Blades - (HCAR0311 pkg of 100)
D Common and needle nose pliers
D Screwdrivers (phillips and flat)

D T-Pins - (HCAR5100 small, HCAR5150 medium,

HCAR5200 large)

D Straightedge - (Fourmost Non Slip FORR2149)
D Masking tape

D Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
D Sanding blocks or Great Planes Easy-Touch"

Bar Sander (GPMR6170 -11" & GPMR6172 - 22")

D Waxed paper
D Lightweight balsa filler - (HCAR3401)
D 5/32" brass tube (optional)
D 1/8" brass tube (optional)

D Tap wrench

D 1/4-20 Tap - (GPMR8105 w/dnll bit)
D IsopropyI rubbing alcohol (70%)
D Dremel® Moto Tool® or similar w/sanding drum and

cutting burr (optional)

D Kyosho" curved scissors (optional) - (KYOR1010)

On our workbench, we have four 11" Easy-Touch Bar
Sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-gnt
sandpaper This setup is all that is required for almost
any sanding task Custom sanding blocks can be made
from balsa for sanding hard to reach spots We also keep
some #320-gnt wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for finish
sanding before covering

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from
light-weight extruded aluminum and can be found at
most hobby shops The sanders are available in two
sizes - 11" (GPMR6170) for most general purpose
sanding and 22" (GPMR6172) for long surfaces such as
wing leading edges We recommend using the 2-1/4"
wide self adhesive sandpaper sold in 12' rolls by Great
Planes The sandpaper is available in three different grit
sizes - #80-grit (GPMR6180), #150-grit (GPMR6183)

and #220-grit (GPMR6185) Standard sandpaper can be
attached by gluing it to the sander with rubber cement.
Apply the rubber cement to both the bottom of the sander
and the back of the sandpaper When both surfaces are
dry to the touch, press the sandpaper firmly onto the
sander Spray adhesive can be used for this purpose but
it's much harder to remove the sandpaper when you
need to replace it Use a knife blade for cutting
sandpaper, not your good scissors!

Balsa Basswood Plywood

Elev = Elevator
LE = Leading Edge (front)
Lt = Left
Rt = Right

TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

4

Fuse = Fuselage
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood
Stab = Stabilizer
" = Inches

We understand that the caliber of modelers likely to build
the Great Planes Learjet may be rather high You may
already know all about the types of adhesives you like to

use However, due to its easy building features, many new
builders may try their hand at the Great Planes Learjet For
those modelers (experts may read along), we have
provided some explanation about the variety of adhesives
used during construction of a model.

Accelerator is a liquid chemical that
comes in a spray bottle for use in
speeding up the cure time of all CA
types It should be misted on, not
sprayed heavily on the joint Accelerator
may cause exposed CA to bubble and
sometimes change color If accelerator
is sprayed on too heavily it may weaken
the glue joint, so use it sparingly

Cyanoacrylate or CA glue has changed the way models
are built more than any other advance in modeling
technology In the good ol' days, model cement like
Ambroid, Duco, Comet and Sigment were the glues of
choice They all had a strong odor that could cause
dizziness, dried slowly (compared to CA) and became
brittle with age CA, on the other hand, is stronger, works
almost instantly and is bottled in three different viscosities

(thicknesses) CA is used for most glue joints, except where
epoxy is specified CA does emit rather strong fumes (some
say it's like tear gas) as it cures, so rule number one is to

work in a well ventilated area. All CA glues work best if
the joints are smooth and fit well.

Thin CA is also known simply as CA This

is the adhesive that has revolutionized

model building because it allows you to
assemble the parts first, then apply the
adhesive The thin formulation flows or
"wicks" into the joints and sets almost

instantly, eliminating the need to hold
things together while the glue dries You
will often use Thin CA for the initial bond,
then follow with medium or thick CA for
extra strength, especially when gluing
plywood or hardwood.

CA+ is also known as medium or gap
filling CA CA+ is used for surface

gluing, filling small gaps between poorly

matched parts and for general purpose
applications It cures slower than thin CA,
allowing you to apply a bead to two or
three parts before assembly Curing time
without accelerator is 20-30 seconds.

CA- or thick CA is used when extra

positioning time is needed CA- is a great
gap filler and is also used to make fillets
when a little extra strength is required.
Curing time is about 1-2 minutes.

A word about CA safety!

After applying CA, to avoid the puff of strong vapors,
don't stand directly over the work All CA glues will bond
skin almost immediately If this should happen, CA
Debonder (available from your hobby dealer) or acetone
fingernail polish remover will dissolve the CA if allowed
to soak into the bond for a few minutes Don't use
vigorous means to separate a skin bond Never, never
point the CA applicator tip toward your face' Be
especially careful when opening a clogged tip In case of
eye contact, flush thoroughly with water, then seek
medical attention, but don't panic. Please, keep CA

(and all other modeling chemicals) out of the reach
of children!

Epoxy

Great Planes has two epoxy formulations available for the
modeler Both offer exceptional strength and convenient
working times Use epoxy when the joint requires
exceptional strength, such as when installing the firewall,
when joining the wing panels, and when installing wing
hold-down blocks As with most epoxies, you mix equal
parts of resin and hardener, stir well then apply a thin film
to each part Parts should be clamped, pinned, taped or
weighted in place until fully cured Before the epoxy cures,
clean off any excess with a paper towel A word of caution
about mixing epoxy-don't use extra hardener in the
hopes of making the mixture harder or work faster Just
about all epoxies work best with exactly a 50/50 mix When
you increase the amount of hardener, you run the risk of
causing the cured epoxy to become either brittle or
rubbery-neither being as strong as a properly mixed batch.

6-Minute Epoxy is used
for simple, small gluing
applications where
elaborate alignment is not
required Working time
(before its too gooey to
use) is about 5 minutes,
handling time 15 minutes
and it's fully cured in about

1 hour

(Continued on page 8)

5

6

7

30-minute epoxy is used

for extra strength (because
it can penetrate longer) and
where several parts must
be aligned and checked
before it cures. Working
time is about 25 minutes,
handling time 2 hours, and
it's fully cured in 8 hours.

Great Planes Pro" Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue
that works well on all types of wood. It is non-toxic, virtually
odorless and dries clear. Some people are sensitive to CA
and epoxy fumes, so this is a good alternative for general
modeling use. Its only drawback is that it is slow to cure,
requiring the parts to be securely clamped, pinned or taped
while the glue dries.

Okay, you've got your work space ready, your tools are at
hand, and you know how to choose and use the right glue

for the job. Let's get started!

D 1. The fin core is made up of left and right die-cut 1/8"
plywood fin cores (LFC, RFC) and a die-cut 1/16" balsa
center fin core (CFC). Place the fin plan on your building
board and cover it with waxed paper. Place the 1/8" RFC
(with one slot) over the plan and glue the 1/16" center fin
core on top of it. Glue the 1/8" LFC (two slots) on top of the
center fin core.

D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets inside
out to make them lie flat.

D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine

the name of each part by comparing it with the plan and the

parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ball point
pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to

avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on

pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them

before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby

knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar
or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.

D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them

into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab

(stabilizer), and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your parts

as you sort, identify and separate them into subassemblies.

D 2. Sand the front and top edges of the fin core smooth,

then pin the core over the plan. Assemble the balsa fin
framework from 1/4" x 1/2" and 1/4" x 3/4" balsa sticks on
the core as shown on the plan. Note: The frame is thinner
than the fin core but this will not cause a problem. Do not
install the leading edge, dorsal fin or the 3/8" top and rear
pieces yet.

D 3. Remove the fin from the board, sand both sides
smooth (it's OK if the plywood core is a little thicker than
the balsa framing). Sheet the right side with 1/16" balsa
sheeting. Drill a 1/8" hole through the sheeting at the rear
end of the top slot and elongate the hole to fit the control
cable tubing. Cut away the fin core below the bottom of the
slots as shown on the plan.

8

D 4. Cut three pieces of inner pushrod tube to match the
plan. Fit the right elevator cable tube in the top slot of the
fin core, up against the sheeting on the right side, with an

inch or so extending through the sheeting hole.

NOTE: LEAVE 3-1/2" OF ALL THREE TUBES
EXTENDING PAST THE BOTTOM OF THE FIN CORE. Fit

the left elevator cable tube in the same slot on top of the

right one, but have it exit on the left side. Fit the rudder

cable tube in the lower slot in the fin core exiting on the

left side as well. When you're happy with the fit, use thick
CA to hold the tubes in the slots.

D 7. Cut the fin top pattern from the plan, then glue it to
the top of the fin with spray adhesive or rubber cement.
Sand the edges of the fin top to match the pattern. Round
the top of the dorsal fin, front of the leading edge and top of
the

fin

top.

D 8. Sand one end of the shaped balsa rudder to match
the angle shown under the stab on the plan. Cut a 3/8"
piece from the sanded end to make the rudder filler. Glue
the 3/8" piece to the bottom of the fin's TE. Cut the rudder
to match the size and shape shown on the plan.

D 5. Sand the right elevator tube flush with the sheeting,
then pin the fin assembly back on the building board. Add

1/16" balsa sheeting on the open side, fitting the sheeting
around the rudder and left elevator tubes where they exit.
Sand the tubes flush with the sheeting.

D 6. Add the 3/8" x 3/4" balsa stick leading edge, trailing

edge (TE), top (notched to match the plan) and shaped
dorsal fin. Remove the assembly from the board.

D 9. Sand a "V" on the leading edge (LE) of the rudder to
match the cross-section on the plan. Use masking tape to
temporarily attach the rudder to the fin. The hinges will be
installed after covering.

D 10. Round the ends of two 6" long pieces of 3/8" balsa

tri-stock and glue them to the sides of the fin, flush with the

bottom of the stab slot.

9

D 11. Cut a small piece of 3/8" scrap balsa stick to fit
between the top of the dorsal fin and the vertical fin. Shape
and sand this piece to match the plan. Use balsa filler
(HCAR3104).

Stabilizer & Elevators

D 3. Sand the completed framework smooth, then glue
1/16" x 3" balsa sheeting to the top surface.

D 4. Remove the stab from the board. Sand the bottom
side smooth, then sheet it with 1/16" x 3" balsa. Trim the
perimeter to the shape shown on the plan and sand the
assembly smooth. Sand the leading edge and tips round to
match the cross section on the plan but leave the TE flat.

D 1. Put the stab plan on your building board and cover it
with waxed paper. Pin the 1/4" shaped balsa stab center

front over the plan, then glue the 1/4" x 3" x 4-1/4" balsa
stab center to its aft edge. Cut the stab center (TE) from a

1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick to match the shape shown on the plan.

D 2. Assemble the stab frame from 1/4" x 1/2" balsa sticks,
then cut and glue the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa trussing in position.

D 5. Cut both ends of each shaped balsa elevator to the
angle shown on the plan, then cut a 1" piece from each

one. Glue these short pieces to the TE of the stab at the
tips, and sand to shape.

D 6. Sand a "V" on the LE of the elevators and trim the
inner ends to match the plan. Temporarily attach the
elevators to the stab with masking tape.

10

D 1. Pin the wing plan to your building board and cover it
with waxed paper.

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

STRAIGHT WING

TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED

THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A

WARPED WING

D 2. Assemble the spars as follows: Pin one of the 1/4" x
3/8" x 30" balsa main spars down over one wing plan and
trim the outboard end at the centerline of W-9 (save the
off-cut piece for use in a moment). Locate a 1/8" x 3/8" x

15-1/4" balsa spar doubler. Sand 2-1/4" of one end of the

spar doubler to a taper (see plan). Glue the spar doubler to
the inboard end of the main spar so that the untapered end
is flush with the root end of the main spar. Trim the

off-cut piece of 1/4" x 3/8" to match the plan at the outboard

end of the main spar, then glue it in position. Glue the die­cut 1/16" plywood spar joiner on top of the joint.

D 3. Remove this spar from the plan, then assemble a
second one over the same plan.

D 5. Decide whether you will be using fixed or retractable

landing gear. The rib doublers required for fixed or retract
gear are different. W-3F and W-4F are used for the fixed
gear and W-3R and W-4R are used for the retract gear.
Glue the appropriate doublers to the W-3 and W-4 ribs,

being sure that you make a left and a right of each one.

Cut the gear block notches out of each rib using the
notches in the doubler as a guide.

D 6. Align the shaped and notched leading edges (LE)
over the plan. Cut the LE in two at the centerline of W-9.
Save both pieces.

CUT LE SHEETING AS SHOWN (4 REQUIRED)

D 7. Using the plan and the pattern shown above, cut four
3/32" x 3-1/2" x 30" balsa LE sheets. Note: The aft edge of
the sheets should fall approximately along the middle of
the spar.

D 8. Glue the two die-cut plywood dihedral braces (DB)
together with 6-minute epoxy. Be sure they are perfectly
aligned along all edges. Clamp the pieces together while
the epoxy cures.

D 4. Build two more spars over the plan of the other

wing. This procedure will produce left and right top and
bottom spars.

D 9. After the DB epoxy has cured, lightly sand the edges
to remove any bumps. Drill a 1/4" hole through the DB
at each of the two punch marks. These holes are for the

wing dowels.

11

NOTE: The wings are built UPSIDE DOWN over the
opposite wing plan.

glue it in place on the forward edge of ribs W-9 through
W-11. Glue the die cut 1/8" plywood leading edge brace to
the back of the leading edge at W-9.

D 1. Start with the wing plan which shows your chosen
landing gear. Pin the trailing edge support jig to the board
over the plan, under the waxed paper. The wide end of the

jig is positioned at the root end of the wing.
D D 2. Carefully separate the leading and trailing edges

with a hobby knife.

D D 3. Pin the bottom spar down and glue W-2, W-6 and

W-11 to the spar, then glue the shaped and notched
trailing edge to those ribs. The ribs should be centered

vertically on the trailing edge and the trailing edge must be
kept level. (Since the trailing edge is tapered, it does not sit
flat on the support jig.) Pin the trailing edge to the support
jig. Add the rest of the ribs (except W-1). Be sure that the

rib doublers are on the correct side of W-3 and W-4 as

indicated on the plan.

D D 6. Fit and glue the second spar in position.

D D 7. Place W-1 in position (with the servo opening
pointing toward the building board) and hold the dihedral
gauge against the outer face to set the proper angle. Glue
W-1 in place. Cut both spars and the TE flush with W-1.
Trim the LE flush with W-2.

D D 4. Fit the inboard leading edge in place on ribs W-4
through W-9. The leading edge must extend an equal
amount above and below the ribs. Glue the leading edge in
place with thin CA.

D D 5. Sand the outboard leading edge (the short piece
you cut off) to fit against the inboard leading edge, then

D D 8. Fit and install 1/16" balsa shear webs in all rib
bays against the aft edges of the spars.

Refer to this photo for next three steps.

D D 9. Lightly sand the top of the ribs, spar and trailing
edge to remove any irregularities. Sand the forward edge
of the 3/32" inboard leading edge sheeting to match the
angle made by the ribs and the leading edge. The aft edge
of the sheet should fall on the centerline of the spar. When
satisfied with the fit, glue it in place.

12